• Barichara 2; Camino Real to Guane / Workshop

    November 5 in Colombia ☁️ 21 °C

    The Camino Real (Royal Road) is a cobblestone path built hundreds of years ago to connect the area's farmlands. The section we walk is a downhill 6 km walk that connects Barichara to Guane. It is very beautiful with excellent views down into the valley and over to the Eastern Andes. We reach Guane......

    The name Guane refers to the historic Guane People, an indigenous Muisca-related civilization that inhabited the Chicamocha Canyon region of Santander, Colombia, before European contact. We visit the small main square and the village museum, which houses thousands of ancient marine fossils, indigenous ceramics, and artefacts from the Guane culture. Later, we return to Barichara by tuk-tuk.

    After a quick lunch, we visit the "rammed earth" workshop to make a small brick using old technique in a miniature format; most houses in Barichara and the surrounding area have been made by this technique for hundreds of years using the local earth. It is a really interesting experience.

    After some down time time we went to a local restaurant, Nakus, where I had a classic Santander regional dish; goat in Creole sauce with pepitoria - amazing.

    Another full, but fantastic day out.
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  • Barichara 1; The town

    November 4 in Colombia 🌧 24 °C

    Barichara's clifftop setting, picturesque architecture, and artesanal heritage combine to make it one of Colombia's most attractive heritage towns; it is located in the Santander Department of north eastern Colombia. It is known for its streets, houses, churches, and cemetery, which are all constructed using the local yellow stone.

    After checking in at the accommodation, we walk down to the Plaza Principal to visit the Cathedral and then walk up and around to the top part of Barichara to visit the cemetery. We then walk down to the Mirador del Salto de Mico to watch the sun set before going to a nearby restaurant for dinner. See captions on photos for details of the walk around Barichara.
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  • En route to Barichara via Socorro

    November 4 in Colombia 🌧 24 °C

    We leave the hotel and drive to Socorro. Socorro is a town in the Santander province of Colombia and was very influential in the history of Colombia; here began the revolt of the Comuneros of 1781 against the oppression of Spanish rule, and the steps towards Colombian independence began.

    We walk around key places here and enjoy lunch before driving on to Barichara.
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  • Villa de Leyva; The town

    November 3 in Colombia ☁️ 24 °C

    We arrive back in Villa de Leyva; this is a historic colonial town and municipality in the Boyacá department of Colombia and is famous for preserving its 16th-century Spanish architecture, whitewashed buildings, and massive cobblestone streets.

    We walk to the Plaza Mayor, which has the largest cobblestone square in Colombia. We stop here for lunch, Colombian style.

    Afterwards, we walk to the Casa Terracota (Terracotta House); this is effectively the largest piece of pottery in the world, built entirely of clay and baked by the sun, and was designed by Colombian architect and ceramist Octavio Mendoza Morales. It is a truly incredible place with a Gaudi-esque influence and very photogenic....

    We walk back to the hotel, rest up for a while, and then walk back to Plaza Mayor to visit the Church (it was closed earlier) and to watch the sun go down over the square.
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  • Villa de Leyva; Ponds, Fossils, and a Little Hell

    November 3 in Colombia ⛅ 17 °C

    We start our tour today with a visit to Pozos Azules (Blue Wells); these are
    artificial ponds created decades ago for farming and colored an intense blue-green by minerals. They are beautiful and used to be used for swimming by locsls, but that is no longer permitted. We enjoy a walk around them.

    Villa de Leyva has a strong fossil heritage, as it was under the ocean originally; fossilised marine life was pushed to the surface when the Andes were formed. We visit the Museo el Fosil, the Community Fossil Museum, which was essentially built around a large fossil (a 7 metres long Kronosaurus boyacensis) found in the fields around Villa de Leyva. We also visit the Paleontological Research Centre (CIP) opposite it; this is a private, non-profit scientific and educational research centre featuring one of Latin America's most advanced vertebrate-fossil preparation laboratories We have a guided tour by one of the staff there.

    We then visit El Infiernito; this is a pre-Columbian Muisca archaeoastronomical and fertility site 5km from Villa de Leyva. Spanish conquistadors and missionaries named it El Infiernito ("The Little Hell") because they considered the indigenous pagan rituals, etc, to be diabolical. There are also penis-like structures that stand for fertility. The Muisca people used the positioning of the monoliths to plan harvests and planting times; it is very much the Colombian version of Stonehenge. We can only take photos from the outside, as the site was closed today.

    Nite that the Muisca are to Colombia, what the Aztecs are to Mexico, and the Inca are to Peru.

    We then drive the short distance back to Villa de Leyva.
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  • Zipaquira and en route to Villa de Leyva

    November 2 in Colombia ☁️ 18 °C

    We drive to Zipaquira to visit the Salt Cathedral, an underground Roman Catholic church built within the tunnels of a salt mine 200 metres (660 ft) underground in a rock salt (halite) mountain. It was created by salt miners whose Catholic beliefs meant they needed a place to pray and ask for protection during work in the active mine.

    Note that the halite mines were exploited already by the pre-Columbian Muisca culture since the 5th century BC, with it being one of their most important economic activities.

    The new cathedral, which we visited, was inaugarated in Dec 1995. We walk along the Stations of the Cross, which illustrate the events of Jesus' last journey, before visiting the Dome and the three naves.

    We leave the amazing Salt Cathedral and go to the town of Zipaquira; after a quick lunch, we spend a short time looking around the town.

    En route to Villa de Leyva in the Eastern Andes, we stop off at the Puente de Boyacá (Boyacá Bridge) is a historic national monument in Colombia where Simón Bolívar's patriot army defeated Spanish Royalist forces on August 7, 1819, securing the independence of New Granada (Colombia).

    We arrive at our hotel and go out for a meal. Another great day.
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  • Bogota 4; Monserrate

    November 2 in Colombia ☁️ 16 °C

    This morning, we visit Monserrate, a mountain over 3,000 metres (10,000 feet) high that overlooks the city centre of Bogotá. There is a church (built in the 17th century) with a shrine devoted to El Señor Caído ("The Fallen Lord"). The Mountain, already considered sacred in pre-Columbian times when the area was inhabited by the indigenous Muisca, is a pilgrim destination, as well as a major tourist attraction.

    We ascend using the funicular and enjoy good views of the city. We walk The Way of the Cross (a traditional devotion in honour of the life, death, and resurrection of Jesus, known also as Stations of the Cross) to the church, before visiting the market area here.

    After the visit, we drive to Zipaquira, a town in the neighbouring province of Cundinamarc.
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  • Bogota 3; Museo Botero

    November 1 in Colombia ☁️ 17 °C

    Museo Botero (Botero Museum) contains works by Colombian painter/sculptor Fernando Botero as well as works by other artists, including Monet and Picasso from Botero's private collection. Botero is known for depicting people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humour.

    We look at his sculptures and paintings on the ground and first floor; they are very quirky - but famous and valuable.

    It has been an incredible day; there is no meal tonight for me!
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  • Bogota 2; Paloquemao Market and Museo del Oro

    November 1 in Colombia ☁️ 17 °C

    After breakfast, we start the day with a visit to the fruit and flower market at Paloquemao; this is very interesting, and we enjoy more food here!

    We return to La Candelaria area to visit Museo del Oro (Gold Museum), one of the most important museums of Colombia; it has a collection of more than 36,000 pieces in gold, wood, shell, and stone from all over the country organized in its three floors - the gold is from pre-Hispanic times. It is a very interesting visit.

    After this, we walk to the Plaza de Bolivar area and enjoy a lunch at Restaurant Puerta de la Catedral; Ajiaco Santafereno, a hearty soup made from chicken, potato, and corn.

    Then, it's on to Museo Botero....
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  • Bogota 1: La Candelaria

    October 31 in Colombia ☁️ 17 °C

    We arrived at our hotel yesterday evening (Thursday, 30th October); after a bite to eat, there was a display of drumming and dancing close to the hotel (to welcome us?).

    On Friday (today), we explored La Candelaria, which is a historic neighbourhood located in Bogota's downtown area, using an excellent map from the hotel. La Candelaria was the site of the Bogotá's founding on August 6, 1538, and it includes the historic centre of Bogotá. Now, there are many painted buildings and a lot of street art to see as well.

    In the evening, we meet the rest of the Explore Group; there are only 7 of us (all retired). We go with our tour leader, Elcy, for a meal - it is Halloween this evening, and it is a popular event in Colombia.

    The captions on the photos indicate many of the interesting places we visit, as we walk the colourful and picturesque streets.
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  • Santa Cruz Island 4; Puerto Ayora and CDRS

    October 29 in Ecuador ☁️ 27 °C

    Puerto Ayora, sometimes referred to as Santa Cruz, is on the southern shore of Santa Cruz Island. It is the home to Galápagos National Park; this was established in 1959 and began operation in 1968 - it is Ecuador's first national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is also home to the Charles Darwin Research Station (CDRS).

    After an overnight stay in the port harbour and saying goodbye to the rest of the group, as we are on the short Eden tour, we visit both of these sites with another guide. It is a wonderful place to visit, and we see the giant tortoises, albeit not in their natural habitat.

    After that, it is a drive over Santa Cruz Island to transfer to Baltra and the flight back to Quito (we overnight here and continue to Colombia the nest day!).

    The next morning, we visit La Mariscal Artesanal Market; these photos have been appended to the Quito; City Tour 2 footprint.

    The end of our Quito and Galápagos trip to Ecuador; what a fantastic experience it has been, and thoroughly recommended.
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  • Santa Cruz Island 3 - Dragon Hill

    October 28 in Ecuador ☁️ 30 °C

    Dragon Hill (Cerro Dragón) is on the northwestern coast of Santa Cruz Island and famous for its population of yellow-orange land iguana. The site suffered a near-collapse in 1975–1976 when feral dogs wiped out the local population of land iguanas; survivors were rescued and bred by the Charles Darwin Research Station, and the population was successfully repatriated by 1991.

    We transfer from the Eden to the coast by panga and then start the trail along the Dragon's tail; there has been a lot of rain recently, which meant that the trail was flooded in parts. We manage to pass behind the beach near hypersaline ponds where we see a few Galápagos flamingo. The group continues to the mound known as Dragon Hill; it is here where the colourful Land Iguanas can be seen. After that, the group doubles back to retrace the same walk back to get the panga back to the Eden for tomorrow's briefing and dinner.

    Another interesting day.
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  • Santa Cruz Island 2 - Black Turtle Cove

    October 28 in Ecuador ⛅ 28 °C

    After breakfast on the Eden, we are taken by panga boats to Black Turtle Cove; this is a mangrove estuary on the northern shores of Santa Cruz Island (to protect the pristine environment, the national park does not allow boats with motors here). It is a natural sanctuary for Galápagos green sea turtles, white-tipped reef sharks, rays, pelicans, herons, and egrets.

    We have a good look round by panga, seeing lots of marine life; then it's back to the Eden to navigate to Dragon Hill (Cerro Dragon) to see land life.....
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  • Santiago Island - Sullivan Bay

    October 27 in Ecuador ⛅ 28 °C

    Sullivan Bay is noted for its lava formation; this was formed by a late 19th-century eruption (around 1897). The landscape resembles a lunar surface with vast, hardened black lava fields. We enjoy a walk to see the beautiful formations and views.

    Before dinner, whilst we are en route to our next overnightstop near to Santa Cruz Island, we are treated to a display by a pod of dolphins and, incredibly, after dinner, the Eden is visited by a couple of Pelicans.

    Another fabulous day!
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  • Bartolomé Island - Walk

    October 27 in Ecuador ⛅ 28 °C

    Bartolomé Island is an uninhabited 1.2 square kilometres volcanic islet located in Sullivan Bay, just east of Santiago Island. The island, along with the bay it sits in, are named after naturalist Sir Bartholomew James Sullivan, who was a lieutenant aboard HMS Beagle, which Charles Darwin travelled on to the Galapagos Islands.

    After an early breakfast, we go on the Islet Walk to see the various volcanic features, not least the dramatic Pinnacle Rock. One of the highlights of the Galapagos is the famous view from the top of the boarded walk.

    Later, we went snorkelling; this went very well as we saw a couple of small sharks as well as many other interesting species.
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  • Genovesa Island 2 - El Barranco Walk

    October 26 in Ecuador ☁️ 28 °C

    After lunch, we reboard the panga boats and head across Darwin Bay to Prince Phillip's Steps, a steep path that leads up to cliffs that are 25 metres (82 feet) high; at the top, the we follow the El Barranco Trail inland, passing more seabird colonies.

    Then it's back for the briefing and dinner; the Eden travels overnight to our next destination; the Bartolomé Islet.
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  • The Galapagos; Santa Cruz Island 1 - Bachas Beach

    October 25 in Ecuador ☁️ 30 °C

    We join our G-Adventures group (15 people) last night; today we have an early morning flight from Quito to Baltra Island - from here, we board our small cruise boat, The Eden (maximum 16 passengers in 8 rooms), and head to Santa Cruz Island.

    We have lunch on the boat, sort out suitable snorkelling kit for everybody, and then sail to Bachas Beach, a 1km stretch of white coral sand; we are taken from the boat to the beach by panga (motorised skiff). We have a walk along the beach to the small lake and back before the snorkelling; this goes well, and we see lots of small fish and a turtle. Then it's back to the boat, shower, briefing for tomorrow, and dinner.

    The Eden sails overnight to our next destination - Genovesa Island.
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  • Intiñan Equator Museum

    October 24 in Ecuador 🌧 20 °C

    The final part of the CarpeDM tour is to the Intiñan Equator Museum , an interactive science and cultural museum located north of Quito. This was a really good experience; we saw how water emptied down a plug hole in different directions on either side of the Equator and felt the effects of gravity along the Equator Line.

    It has been an amazing day!
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  • Quito; City Tour 1

    Oct 23–24 in Ecuador ☀️ 14 °C

    We fly to Quito via Amsterdam; we transfer to the hotel with a stop off to get a view of the Gualapo Church.

    Next day (Friday) , we are booked on a CarpeDM Adventures Quito City Tour to the Equator Line; this covers most of the city's main sites in a full day; these are described on the captions on the groups of photos.Read more

  • Early Cambridge; From the market to Castle Mound

    October 4 in England ☁️ 20 °C

    This is Walk 1 from the Cambridge Hidden Walks book and starts centrally, moving from the modern city to the medieval town.

    From the market square, I walk along Petty Cury, where communal cooking used to be done. Walking past the highest walls of Christ's College, known as Milton's Walk, there is then a narrow passageway to King Street. After a short walk down part of the "King Street Run" (a student drinking challenge), it's Park Street and across Jesus Green and the River Cam. There are several interesting sites at the corner of Chesterton Road and Castle Street, where St Giles' Church is located; the Museum of Cambridge and the Kettle's Yard Museum are covered in the Museums of Cambridge trip. I do visit the tiny 11th century St Peter’s Church, though.

    Then it's up Castle Mound for the view; this is the site of the old Cambridge Castle, built in the 11th century. Retracing steps, it's across Castle Street towards Pound Hill and Honey Lane before walking back to Market Square.

    The captions on the photos describe the places and things seen on this interesting 3-mile walk.
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  • The Hemingfords to St Ives

    August 26 in England ☁️ 26 °C

    This walk is the return part of the St. Ives to Houghton Mill walk (see The River Great Ouse > St Ives to Godmanchester post).

    From Houghton Mill, I walk across Hemingford Meadow, a 0.7 hectare Biological Site of Special Scientific Interest, towards Hemingford Abbots.  I cross the Black Bridge into a very nice village. From here, it is on to Hemingford Grey, which is another historic village famous for The Manor House. This a 12th-century house and one of the oldest continuously inhabited houses in Britian; it was home to author Lucy M. Boston (the author of the Green Knowe children's books that were set here) from 1939 onwards until her death in 1990.  The walk takes me past St. Jame's Church before crossing another part of Hemingford Meadow towards St Ives.

    It has been a lovely walk of about 3 miles.
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  • 9. St Ives to Godmanchester

    August 26 in England ☁️ 24 °C

    This walk was done in two halves on different days; St Ives to Houghton Mill and Houghton Mill to Godmanchester

    From St Ives (described more fully in the Cambridgeshire; Hunts District > St Ives FP post) I follow the Ouse Valley Way; it is not close to the river for most of the way to Godmanchester, and I take a couple of minor diversions parallel to the Way to make the walk more interesting.

    Houghton Mill is very interesting; owned by the National Trust, mills have been recorded on the site since 974 and the modern iteration is a working 18th-century watermill, with three floors of traditional machinery. Furthermore, water meadows alongside the River Great Ouse provide walking routes to St Ives, Huntingdon, and Godmanchester.  From here, the Ouse Valley Way follows the river for a while before diverting south past via the Godmanchester Nature Reserve, consisting of four lakes, which are former gravel pits.  I soon arrive in Godmanchester, a historic and picturesque town located on the south bank of the River Great Ouse one mile south of Huntingdon.
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  • Tudors and Topiary; Madingley Hall

    August 26 in England ☁️ 21 °C

    This is Walk 14 from the Cambridge Hidden Walks book and is called Tudors and Topiary; Madingley Hall and Cambridge American Cemetery (a possible extension which I did not do, as the Cemetery has been visited previously).

    Madingley Hall is a 16th-century Tudor Mansion set within an 18th-century landscape with lots of topiary designed by Capability Brown; it was rented by Queen Victoria in 1861 for her son Edward (later King Edward VII) while he studied at the University of Cambridge. It has been owned by the University of Cambridge since 1948. The Madingley Parish Church is very close to the grounds of the Hall; when the park was landscaped in the 18th century, several houses were knocked down to give the impression that the church is part of the estate.

    I enjoy a very pleasant walk around the estate based on the book (see captions on photos for details of the walk; some photos are from an earlier visit last month).
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  • Bolsover Castle

    August 17 in England ☁️ 17 °C

    We visit Bolsover Castle on our journey back from Wirksworth to home.  Bolsover Castle and Hardwick Hall (see earlier post) are closely linked through the powerful Cavendish family; the two are only about 4.5 miles apart. Whereas Hardwick Hall was built by the formidable Bess of Hardwick (Countess of Shrewsbury) in the 1590s, the land at Bolsover was bought by Bess's son, Sir Charles Cavendish, in 1608 and he began transforming the medieval castle ruins into a modern retreat.

    Bolsover Castle is now under the care of English Heritage and famous for being a 17th-century "party palace" built for show rather than defence; it features the following:
    1) the Little Castle - this was built on 12th century medieval ruins and mimics a fortress with towers, but with large windows and luxurious rooms for entertainment,
    2) the Terrace Range - the vast and stately Terrace Range overlooking the Vale of Scarsdale is now a dramatic roofless shell.
    3) the Riding School - this is the oldest surviving complete riding house in England and commissioned by William Cavendish (riding master to King Charles II),

    We start by visiting the Little Castle via the Fountain Garden and walking around the various rooms on several levels; after that we explore the Terrace Range before looking at the Riding School; see captions of photos for details.

    It has been an interesting visit.
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