• Reykjavik 3; City Centre

    June 14 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We are flying back to the UK late this afternoon and have time to see some of the views and sights in Reykjavik that we missed at the start of the trip.

    We walk towards the Harpa Concert Hall via the Saebraut seaside walk and back to the hotel via a walk around Tjornin (The Pond), and then along Laugarvigur (see captions on photos for details).

    We have had a great trip to Iceland!
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  • Godafoss, Akureyri, and Grabrok Crater

    June 13 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    We are heading back to Reykjavik for our final evening today; our first stop en route is Godafoss, a 30m wide by 12m drop waterfall - if Dettifoss is the Beast, this is the Beauty.

    The next stop is Akureyri; it is the capital of North Iceland and is located at the southern end of Eyjafjordur, the largest fjord in Iceland. We stop here for a walk around the attractive town and to visit the Botanical Gardens.

    We then drive south towards Grabrok Crater; this was formed from a volcanic fissure eruption over 3,000 years ago and is the largest of three craters along a 600m fissure. We walk up the wooden staircase and enjoy the sweeping views ofmosscovered kava fields.

    Then it's back to Reykjavik; it's not a big farewell dinner tonight as it's fairly late, so we go to Borg 29 food hall for a pizza.
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  • Asbyrgi Canyon and Lake Myvatn

    June 12 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    After a brief stop at a viewpoint over Shaky Bay, we proceed to Asbyrgi Canyon, a crescent-shaped glacial gorge formed from an old dried out river bed when the Glacier changed course; or, it could be formed from the hoof print of Sleipnir, the eight legged horse of the God Odin.... We enjoy a short walk at the end by towering vertical cliffs and the water.

    Next, we drive to the Lake Myvayn area; our first visit is to the fumaroles and mud pots of Hverir at the foot of Mount Namafjall, the Sulphur mountain; Lake Myvatn is on the other side of the mountain, and is the fourth largest lake in Iceland, 275m above sea level, and formed 3,800 years ago. It is a short drive to Dimmuborgir, where we have lunch and then walk around the lava park here, seeing the interesting shapes of various volcanic caves and rock formations, reminiscent of an ancient collapsed citadel. We then follow the so-called Silica Road for a while to get back to Husavik.

    Then, it's off to GeoSea Geothermal Sea Baths close to Husavik; there are several oudoor pools of naturally heated seawater at different temperatures, a steam room, and a bar - perfect. It was a wonderful experience.

    We finish the day with an excellent meal at the Salka restaurant in Husavik, a short walk from the hotel.
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  • Fjalladyrd, Dettifoss Waterfall, Husavik

    June 11 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We leave the Eastern Fjords region and cross up to the north of Iceland. There are great views en route, and we stop for coffee at Fjalladyrd; this is the highest inhabited farm in Iceland and now offers a range of facilities.

    We drive on through Northern Iceland towards Dettifoss and Selfoss Waterfalls; whereas Dettifoss is the most powerful waterfall in Europe (44,000 litres of water pre second!), Selfoss is more humble and beautifully shaped.

    We then drive on to Husavik; this is Iceland's oldest settlement and very picturesque. It is the whale watching centre of Iceland, but we decline the optional whale watching tour, having been on several already. We enjoy a walk around the town, seeing the main sights (see captions on photos for details). A particular highlight was the Husavik Ol microbrewery, where the beer was only 1000 Krona during World Cup games! It was an excellent evening...
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  • Eastern Fjords Region

    Jun 10–11 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Our first stop in the Eastern Fjords region is Djupivogur, a historic trading village dating back to 1589.

    We then travel to Faskrudsfjordur, another old trading port; this was home to a hospital founded to serve French fishermen working here until 1935 (the former hospital building dating from 1903 has now been restored as a hotel - the one we are staying in). Later, we enjoy an amazing meal at Cafe Sumarlina.

    Next morning, we set off through the Eastern Fjords and on to Husavik in the north of Iceland.
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  • Ingolfshofoi Nature Reserve / To Eastern Fjords

    June 10 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    After breakfast, we drive to the start point for the "Puffin Tour" in the Ingolfshofoi Nature Reserve; this is run by a small family business that offers authentic tours on the family's farm Hofsnes. We take a tractor pulled hay cart to cross over to the Ingolfshofoi Nature Reserve on a remote headland on the black sand coast of southeast Iceland. The whole experience was truly amazing and is described on the photo captions.

    We then drive towards the Eastern Fjords region of Iceland.
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  • Skaftafell Reserve and Jokulsarlon Glacial Lagoon

    June 9 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    We visit Skaftafell Nature Reserve, an area of wilderness inside the larger Vatnajokull National Park, and go on the walk towards Sel, an old, original farm in the area, and then on to Svartifoss Waterfall before returning to the visitor centre

    After lunch, we drive to Jokulsarlon, a glacial lagoon, with waters dotted with icebergs from the surrounding Breioamerkurjokull Glacier, part of the larger Vatnajokull Glacier; we go a amphibious vehicle boat ride to see more. The lagoon flows through a short waterway into the Atlantic Ocean, leaving chunks of ice on a black sand beach.

    Then it's back to Skaftafell Nature Reserve for a walk along the geology trail to Skaftafell Glacier.

    A full day.
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  • Seljalandsfoss, Skogafoss, and Vik I Myrdal

    June 8 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    We leave Gullfoss Waterfall and drive to Skaftafell, stopping at various sites wn route.

    First, we visit Seljalandsfoss Waterfall, which is noted for its height and the possibility to walk behind the curtain of water from one side to the other. We do this and get a little wet due to the wind blowing as we emerge!

    Our next stop is Skogafoss Waterfall, one of Iceland's tallest waterfalls, standing at 62 m / 203 ft.

    We also stop at Vik I Myrdal, a black sanded and rocky beach with basalt cliffs and their columns. We then stop off at the village of Vik to see the beach there.

    As we drive on to Skaftafell, we stop off and have a short walk on a large lava field and see the moss growths on the boulders.

    It's been a long day, by the time we arrive at Hotel Skaftafell!
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  • The Golden Circle highlights

    Jun 7–8 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    The Golden Circle of Iceland is a famous 190-mile looped tourist route from Reykjavik that is often done as a day trip. There are three primary must-see stops, and we visit two this afternoon and one tomorrow morning on our route to Skaftafell.

    The first is Thingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as it was the birthplace of the Icelandic Parliament in 930 AD, when 30 clan leaders came together to create a unified nation after years of fighting. It is also of geological interest because the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet here, with a portion of Iceland on each, meaning that you can cross between two continents here. We have a lovely walk between our pick-up points via the Oxarafoss Waterfall.

    We stop off at the Solheimer Eco-village for coffee en route to the Geysir Geothermal Area, the second must-see stop. Located in the Haikadalud Valley, this area features bubbling mud pools and the Strokkur Geyser (known as "the butter churn"), which erupts every 5-10 minutes throwing boiling water up to 130 ft in the air.

    We then drive to the Gullfoss Hotel ready for the third must-see stop of the Golden Circle; the Gullfoss Falls. This is fed by the Havita glacial river and is a spectacular two-tiered waterfall that drops 32 m (105 ft) into a rugged canyon. The name translates to "Golden Falls," giving the Golden Circle its name. We see the sculpture of "Sigridur of Brattholt," a farmer's daughter whose activism helped preserve the Gullfoss Falls, preventing them from being industrialised.

    We set off for Skaftafell via Highway 1, the ring road around Iceland.
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  • Reykjavik 2; City Centre and Greater City Area

    June 7 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After breakfast, we drive to Grotta, a natural site and nature reserve on the western side of the Greater Reykjavik area. We see the Grotta lighthouse (built in 1877 and reconstructed in 1947) and the nature reserve.

    We drive back to the city centre and the Harpa Concert Hall and harbour area. We walk to the Parliament Square and then up to Tjornin, a small lake in the centre of Reykjavik. Later, we drive a short distance up to Hallgrimshirkje (Church of Hallgrinur), a protestant Lutheran Church; it is the tallest church in Iceland and the second most tall building in the country. It was completed in 1986 and built to resemble the columnar basalt rock formations that are found in Iceland (eg, at Vika beach, which we will visit later in the trip); it is minimalist inside.

    We drive to the southern part of the Greater Reykjavik area to Perlan, a popular and immersive museum; we do not visit it, but have a short walk and enjoy views from the top of Osjkuhlid Hill, on which it stands - the main building is based around four heating tanks. We then visit the Nautholsvuk Geothermal Beach, near the domestic airport, which is noted for its golden sand, geothermal heated swim lagoon, and hot tubs.

    Then it's off to see some of the Golden Circle highlights....
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  • Reykjavik 1; City Centre

    June 6 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    We fly from London to Reykjavik with Icelandic Air to start our "Land of the Midnight Sun" trip with Explore Travel. We have time to have a meal at a local food court close to the hotel and to have a walk around some of the city centre before a guided tour tomorrow.

    We walk along Laugarvigur, the mile-long central and commercial artery of Reykjavik, seeing old-style buildings and impressive street art before turning off after Rainbow Street towards the harbour and the promenade (Saebraut seaside walk), offering impressive sights, including the Harpa Concert Hall and the Sun Voyager, before walking up to the hotel. Sunset isn't until 11:45pm this evening!

    A good start to the trip.
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  • Wrest Park 2; the Gardens and Woodland

    May 22 in England ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Wrest Park Gardens are formal gardens surrounding the mansion and include a number of other buildings, monuments, and statues; the park also has woodland on either side. The Gardens are divided by a wide gravel central walk, continued as a long canal that leads to a Baroque pavilion banqueting house designed by Thomas Archer and completed in 1711. 

    We have a very enjoyable and interesting walk around the gardens; see captions on photos for details - they are presented in an ant-clockwise direction from and back to the house.
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  • Wrest Park 1; the Mansion House

    May 22 in England ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Wrest Park is a country estate located in Silsoe, Bedfordshire. It comprises Wrest Park Mansion, a grade I listed country house, and Wrest Park Gardens and Woodland (also grade I listed).

    Between the 13th and 20th centuries it was occupied by the de Grey family; the original house was demolished in the 1830's, and the current mansion was built by Thomas de Grey, 2nd Earl de Grey, also in the 1830's, in a Louis XV style that is unique in England. Wrest Park was used as a military hospital during WW I; it was eventually purchased by Sun Insurance (who moved from offices in London to Wrest Park during WW II, building 12 huts and converting stables to house 300 employees. After the war, it became a centre for modern agricultural engineering research. English Heritage took over the house and gardens in 2006 and began a 20-year restoration project.

    We visit the house, seeing what we are able to (see captions on photos for details).
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  • St Paul's Walden Bury

    May 15 in England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    St Paul's Walden Bury is a Grade I listed 18th-century garden and mansion, which was the birthplace and childhood home of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother (the Bowes-Lyon family, her ancestors, has long-standing connections to the area and still live in the stately home).  It is located in St Paul's Walden, a rural village in North Hertfordshire, located between Hitchin and Stevenage in the Chilterns, and has a 50-acre formal woodland garden famed for its notable collection of classical statues and temples, lakes and ponds.

    It is not possible for us to visit the house, although it is used as a wedding venue, but the gardens have been recommended to us and we set off for a visit to walk round them to explore.  The formal woodland garden, covering about 60 acres, was much influenced by French tastes, and is one of the few surviving examples of gardens of this genre, based on a patte d’oie (goose foot) design. Long rides lined with clipped beech hedges lead to temples, statues, lakes, and ponds, and to a terraced outdoor theatre.  It is an excellent place to visit - see captions on photos - and there is an online map of the garden to refer to en route.

    We also visit the restored 18th century barn in the grounds of the house, where the WEFT contemporary art exhibition is on for a week; the exhibition features an installation by a local artist and explores themes of disability, sensory experience, and the built environment; it is "quirky", but interesting.

    A good day out.
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  • Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods)

    April 3 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    The Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei) is a scenic 8-10 km coastal hike linking Bomerano (Agerola Commune) and Nocelle (the upper part of the Positano Commune); name “Path of the Gods” comes from an ancient legend: the Greek deities once walked this trail to rescue Ulysses from the sirens of the Li Galli islets.

    We drive to Bomerano and start the walk; there are breathtaking views all the way (see photos!) as we walk the Path of the Gods to Nocelle, a tranquil, ancient hamlet perched 450 metres above Positano on Italy’s Amalfi Coast; there is a steep 1,700 stepped pathway which goes down to the town of Positano itself, but we take the longer route via Montepertuso and the northern part of Positano.  Positano is a stunning, vertical town on Italy's Amalfi Coast, known for its pastel-colored houses stacked on steep cliffs, vibrant fashion boutiques, and pebbled beaches.

    After some spare time in Positano, we drive back to San Lazzaro.  We are held up in Bomerano by the Good Friday Procession, a reenactment of the Passion of Christ, but we get back to the Agriturismo for our farewell evening meal of the trip and get out just in time to see the final, nighttime scene featuring the crucifixion of Jesus and the two thieves (Gestas and Dismas) at the Colonia Montana.  What a day!

    It has been a fantastic trip to the Amalfi Coast for both of us.
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  • Pompeii (Pompei)

    April 2 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    I have visited Pompeii before; in 1978 with Anthony when we did an inter-rail tour of Europe late that year.  It has changed a lot in that time!

    Pompeii is 160 -170 acres in size, almost 10 times the size of Herculaneum, and offers a different perspective on Roman life, providing an insight into ancient urban planning.  Pompeii was a thriving (10-20,000 residents) Roman city near Naples, destroyed and buried under meters of volcanic ash, pumice, and mud by the violent eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD79. The city remained largely undisturbed until its discovery in the late 16th century, and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.  

    We can only see a part of the site in our time here and our guide focusses on the main sites on the Via dell' Abbadanza from the amphitheatre up to the Forum; a full exploration of Pompeii would require a lot more than a day (we are here 3 hours)!  Nevertheless, it is an excellent visit.
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  • Herculaneum (Ercalano)

    April 2 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Today, we visit both Herculaneum and Pompeii on an optional tour with a registered local guide (everyone on the Explore trip goes, of course).

    Herculaneum is an ancient Roman town buried (and preserved) by pyroclastic material (mainly volcanic particles) from the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD79; this preserved more wooden and organic materials than those at Pompeii. Herculaneum was buried beneath 16 meters of ash and mud during the eruption.

     Herculaneum was a wealthy town and a seaside retreat for the Roman elite, as reflected by the extraordinary density of luxurious houses featuring lavish use of coloured marble cladding and mosaics.

    It is a very well-preserved small site of 16-20 acres in size and fascinating to visit. Next stop, Pompeii!
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  • La valle delle Ferriere

    April 1 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    What a difference a day makes! Rain and wind last night as well, but it cleared up as we set off from the Agriturismo.

    Today, we walk from San Lazzaro to Amalfi via La valle delle Ferriere, the Ferriere Valley, a biogenetic reserve; it is a deep valley that begins in the mountains of Scala and ends six kilometres further down in the territory of Amalfi; it is named for the ironworks that used to be here.

    We follow an ancient stairway from San Lazzaro and then pass through woodland and valleys towards the valle delle Ferriere, which is surrounded by limestone cliffs. After the valley, we descend via a series of stairways to Amalfi.

    It's been a great walk of over 10km, with an ascent of 250m and a descent of 885m; a great day out.
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  • Capri

    March 31 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    What a difference a day makes!

    After the beautiful weather of yesterday, there is heavy rain and strong wind overnight, and a much colder day today. We drive to Sorrento to take the boat to Capri, as the preferred option from Amaldi is not possible today.

    Capri is famous for being a haven for the rich, famous, and quirky (i.e., artists, aristocrats, and celebrities - eg Maxim Gorky, Oscar Wilde, and Sophia Loren, alongside jet-setters including Jackie Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn).

    We walk from the Marina Grande, the main port of the island, and through the town and up towards Villa Jovis, the remains of a grand Roman palace built by Emperor Tibelius in AD27 on the eastern end of the island. We then walk back via another route to the town to have a look around before returning to the Marina Grande to take the boat back to Sorrento for the minibus to the Agriturismo.
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  • Amalfi

    March 30 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Amalfi is a town in a dramatic natural setting below steep cliffs on Italy’s southwest coast. Between the 9th and 11th centuries, it was the seat of a powerful maritime republic. The Arab-Norman Sant'Andrea cathedral at the heart of town, with its striped Byzantine facade, survives from this era.

    On arriving in Amalfi from the walk, we have time free to explore a little; we visit the magnificent Duomo di Sant' Andrea (see photo captions) and walk around the town for a while, seeing some of the sights.

    We drive back to the Agriturismo and then go out to the local hotel in San Lazzaro to hear about the cooks' involvement in pizza-making (a very amusing story) and then eat lots of pizza!

    It's been a great day.
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  • Ravello / Walk to Amalfi via Atrani

    March 30 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    We drive to Ravello from San Lazzaro via the Amalfi Coast and then by driving up; the town is also high above sea level and situated in the province of Salerno.

    We start at the central square where the Cathedral of Ravello and Villa Rufolo are situated (the Cathedral is closed, unfortunately) and then walk to Villa Cimbrone; this is considered an important example of the landscape, botany and culture of England created in the Mediterranean. Originally an estate in Roman times, it was rediscovered by Ernest Beckett, Lord Grimthorpe, on a Grand Tour in the 19th century and has been redeveloped over the years. There are many sites of interest here.

    We then return to the town centre and start our walk down to Atrani via the small village of Torello; there are some superb views en route. Atrani itself is also very attractive; it is a short walk through a tunnel from here to Amalfi.
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  • Bomerano to San Lazzaro via Pino Gorge

    March 29 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Our minibus takes across the Agerola Commune from San Lazzaro to Bomerano via Pianillo.

    We walk towards the coast following the "horseshoe" of high land to Furore (not in Agerola Commune), and then we double back up and around the Pino Gorge to walk up to San Lazzaro. It's not a long walk (approx 5 km), but there's a lot of ascent and descent with some magnificent views. Details of the walk are described on the photo captions.

    Later on, there are tagliatelle and mozzarella cheese making courses at the Agriturismo; these are great fun, and we eat what we made (with local salad and other produce).
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  • San Lazzaro

    March 28 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We fly from Luton Airport to Naples, the regional capital of Campania, a region in southwestern Italy known for its ancient ruins and dramatic coastline. We are staying in the area for a week with Explore Travel at an agriturismo, a small family farm that lets guests stay in their accommodation in the village of San Lazzaro.

    San Lazzaro is located in the Agerola commune (municipality) of "greater" Naples; other villages in the Agerola commune include Bomerano, Campora, Pianillo, Ponte, and Santa Maria. Note that the Agerola commune is mainly located on a horseshoe shaped ridge about 600 metres above the Amalfi Coast and that there are great views down.

    After settling in at the Agriturismo, we have a quick explore of the village, seeing the main attractions;;
    1. The Colonia Montana is well known for a small park there (nothing to see at this time of year) and the Principe de Napoli, a hisoric recently restored 1930s building from the Mussolini era,
    2. Castello Lauritano, a historic hilltop fortress that is in the process of restoration, the location of which offers fantastic views of the Amalfi Coast below,
    3. The church in the village centre
    (see captions on photos for firther details).

    We then head back to the Agriturismo and enjoy a lovely meal. It's been a good start to the trip.
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  • Orwell, Great Eversden, Little Eversden

    March 4 in England ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    This post is a compilation of several walks over the last couple of years with the Cambridge Rambling Club in this area, which is close to Wimpole Hall. The captions on the photographs describe the villages in more detail.

    The route starts at Orwell village car park; Orwell is a rural village outside Cambridge, particularly noted for

    1) its clunch pit, a 4.4-acre former stone quarry with a rich chalk grassland flora (scarce in Eastern England), and now a biological Site of Scientific Interest (clunch is a traditional building material, and is a hard, compact form of chalk or limestone used historically in East Anglia for constructing walls and buildings).

    2) the Prime Meridian passing the eastern edge of the village.

    We cross the A603, and then ascend the hill up to Mare Way, an ancient, prehistoric ridge route, and follow this to the path that turns off for Wimpole Hall; we walk in the other direction towards Great Eversden; this is a small village of about 85 houses that broadly takes the shape of a cross, with roads towards Harlton to Kingston road forming the East and West arms and no-through-roads of Chapel Road and Wimpole Road forming the North and South arms. We then take the footpath across to Little Eversden.

    From here, it is over the A603 again and to Harlton, also noted for a clunch pit, and then on to Barrington - see earlier posts for details of these villages - before heading back to Orwell.

    It is a lovely walk.
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  • Attingham Park

    February 24 in England ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We leave our accommodation in Church Stretton and drive up towards Shrewsbury, turning off to visit the National Trust owned Attingham Park, comprising grand Georgian Mansion, historic stables, and extensive grounds (640 acres).

    A large house called Tern Hall (named after the River Tern passing close by) occupied the site originally; a larger and grander mansion was built around it in 1785 for Noel Hill, the 1st Baron Berwick, who renamed it Attingham Hall. His son Thomas, the 2nd Lord Berwick, went into financial ruin, but his brother William, the 3rd Baron Berwick, did a better job and filled it with his collection of Italian Art and Furniture. During WWI, Thomas, the 8th Baron Berwick, leased it to a Dutch-American family who used the hall as a hospital, and in WWII, the grounds were used for the Women's Auxiliary Air Force. Attingham Park was gifted to the National Trust in 1947 by Thomas as a bequest in his will.

    We visit the mansion, followed by the stables courtyard and the walled garden, and then explore the grounds using a combination of the 4 walks described on the leaflet (Mile walk, Woodland walk, Deer Park walk, and WWII walk) to see the whole of the accessible parkland area (see captions on photos for details).

    It's been a lovely visit in good weather. After that, it's back home!
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  • Ludlow

    February 23 in England ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    We leave our HF accommodation at Longmynd House (the food and general feel have been excellent), but we will return to Church Stretton later as we have booked a night at an apartment here.

    We drive to Ludlow, a market town in South Shropshire. It was originally a medieval walled town founded in the 11th century after the Norman Conquest. As well as a castle and a magnificent church here, there are almost 500 listed buildings, with some of them being "landmarks." We walk around the town, seeing some of them (see captions on photos for details), and then walk along The Breadwalk path next to the River Terne. We explore Ludlow Castle, one of the finest medieval castles in England (see captions on photos for details). After that, we visit St Lawrence's Church, described as the "Cathedral of the Marches", and noted for its stained glass windows; it was also built originally in the 11th century by the Normans atop a hill mound around which the medieval town developed (see captions on photos for details).

    We then drive back to Church Stretton; it has been an excellent visit to a beautiful town.
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