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Romania
  • Andrew's Travels

Romania

A journey with Explore Travel on their "Best of Romania and the Danube Delta" trip. Meer informatie
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  • Het begin van de reis
    10 september 2025
    Andrew's TravelsRomaniaReiziger
    Dinner last night; Pastrama and mamaliga
    Peles CastleStatue of King Carol IStatue of his wife, Queen ElizabethPelisor PalacePelisor PalaceDining RoomTea RoomDoor with Lilac EmblemThe Gold RoomElizabeth RoomSteinway PianoBran CastleEntranceVlad the Impaler family lineHidden staircaseView in CastleThe origins of Count DraculaVlad the ImpalerNosferatuCount Dracula cloakMummyView in CastleThe Explore Group

    Transylvania 1; Peles and Bran Castles

    11 september, Roemenië ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We left home early yesterday and spent most of the day travelling to Bucharest, the capital of Romania.

    Romania became an Eastern Bloc country after WWII but is now a member of the EC. It has a population of 19 million, of which 89% are Romanian, 5% Hungarian, 4% Roma and 1% Muslim; it is 86% Christian. The country comprises 1/3 mountains, 1/3 hillside, and 1/3 plains and grows a wide range of grain, fruit, and vegetables, as well as having vineyards and good wines (not well known outside of the country, though).

    After arriving at our hotel, it's a very quick turnaround to go out for dinner; I enjoy local beers with a traditional Romanian pastrama mutton dish, mamaliga (corn meal polenta and sour cheese) and some veg (mainly gherkins) - nicer than it sounds!

    Early next morning, we leave northern Bucharest and drive across the flat countryside of the Wallachia Region towards the Gateway Town to Translvania; Sinaia. Sinaia is named after Mount Sinai and stated out as a monastery before developing into an expensive and desirable town. Here, we visit Peles and Pelisor Castles. Peles Castle was commissioned by Romania's first king, Carol I, in 1873. A little uphill from it is another Royal residence, Pelisor Palace, built from 1899 to 1902 for the heirs to the Romanian throne, Ferdinand and Marie. See captions on photos for details.

    We then cross the Carpathian Mountains further into the Transylvania Region to visit the town of Bran and Bran Castle; this was once home to Queen Marie of Romania, a granddaughter of Queen Victoria. There is no connection between the castle and Bram Stoker's novel, Dracula, but it is now a major tourist attraction regarding the vampire (see photos). It is a great place to visit.

    Afterwards, we travel to the town of Moieciu.    Meer informatie

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  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaReiziger
    Casa Zada Guest House
    View of MoieciuShepherd's hutView of Carpathian MountainsViewView of Carpathian MountainsCowsChickensHay stacked in a traditional local way around a frameCiorba (vegetable soup)Sarmala (stuffed cabbage leaves), mamaliga (polenta), varza myrata (sauerkraut)

    Transylvania 2; Moieciu

    11 september, Roemenië ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We arrive at our group guest house in the town of Moieciu for the evening, and most of us set off on a local walk led by our Explore group leader, Horea. The walk is used by local shepherds to reach their animals higher up on the surrounding hills.

    It is a steep ascent through woods initially, but we eventually reach the top and enjoy good views. We descend by another less steep path and then have a short road walk to get back to the guest house. It has been an interesting 5 km walk, taking longer than expected for this distance.

    After a quick turnaround, it's dinner at 7:30 pm; a traditional meal with an apple palinka aperitif first, and then lots of local red wine to go with the delicious food (see photo captions).

    It has been a very full first day!    Meer informatie

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  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaReiziger
    Brasov; Catherine's Gate; once the main entrance to the walled city
    Schei GateView of the Old Town fortifications and the Black Church behind1Rope Street, 1.2 meters wideThe Black ChurchStatue of Johannes Honterus outside the Black ChurchInside the Black Church; nave / organThe Altar / The PulpitThe Nativity Mural; a fresco of the Virgin Mary, Baby Jesus, and two SaintsPersian rugs hang inside the churchMain Square; Council House, now a museumMain Square; view towards the Black Tower, a WatchtowerChurch of Holy TrinityStreet sceneSighisoara; The Tailor's Tower, on the Western flank of the Citadel and the main entranceView up to the Church on the HillThe Church on the HillGerman CemeteryLunch - langos, a doughnut base with pizza toppings / town centre street sceneThe Clock Tower, the symbol of the cityView from behindView back to the Tinsmith's TowerThe Roman Catholic Church, 19th centuryBootmaker's Tower, the northern flank of the CitadelFurrier's Tower / Butcher's Tower

    Transylvania 3; Brasov and Sighisoara

    12 september, Roemenië ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We drive to Brasov; this town has a population of 250,000 and is Romania's second most visited place, after Bucharest. It owes its existence to Teutonic Knights, who established a town in 1211, and it grew into a German colony named Kronstadt; the Saxons added churches and a medieval town wall in the Middle Ages to make it a fortified city. The main attraction is the Black Church, named for its charred appearance following the Great Fire of 1689. We explore the town in the rain (see captions on photos for details) before leaving for Sighisoara.

    Sighisoara was established by the Saxons who built a magnificent fortess town that is now a UNESCO-protected Citadel. It was a booming commercial centre in the Middle Ages, supporting many guilds; these have towers around the city bastions that honour them. Sighisoara is also allegedly the birthplace of Vlad the Impaler. We walk up to the towering medieval citadel and explore it (see captions on photos for details).

    We then drive to our next overnight accommodation in Bistrita in northern Transylvania.    Meer informatie

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  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaReiziger
    Welcome to Maramures; wooden gate structures are traditional entry points to villages etc
    Coffee stop; inside were stained glass indications of the traditional lifestyle in MaramuresBogdan; Church of St NicholasViews inside the church (through the tiny window slots)Statue of Bogdan, the first ruler of MoldaviaAn example of the "Tree of the Housewife", an old tradition relating to the ladies of the houseBarsana Monastery; entranceThe ChurchInside the church1View of the Barsana Monastery siteA nunViews of the siteSapanta; Traditional washing machine by the river / weaving a blanketA traditional meal in a traditional house; chiftele (meatballs) with veg stew/ dobos cake and coffeeThe room for entertaining guests; traditionally called the "good room"2Two members of the Explore group in local marriage clothesSapanta; The Merry Cemetery - the ChurchInside the church; nave / ceilingA young married couple (look familiar?)The rear view of the churchThe Tomb of the Merry Cemetery founder, Ioan Stan PatrasThe front and rear of a tombGeneral view of the cemeteryTypical countryside view in east Maramures

    Maramures 1; Barsana and Sapanta

    13 september, Roemenië ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    As we drive through Northern Transylvania toward the Maramures Region, we see many orchards, mainly apples for eating and making apple brandy (they are not used for cider).

    The Maramures Region of Romania is in the northwest of the country and home to Europe's last remaining peasant culture; this includes wooden churches, traditional village lifestyles, and traditional clothing. The region is 70-80% forest and mainly hills; wood is the main resource here. We stop off at Bogdan en route to Barsana to see the wooden Church of St. Nicholas.

    Although there was a monastery on the hillside site in Barsana many centuries ago, it fell into disrepair, and the new monastery (actually a convent) was established in 1993; it is very beautiful.

    From Barsana, we travel west through Sighetu Marmatiei (which has a Jewish history) along the border with Ukraine, formed by the River Tisa, to Sapanta. Here, we enjoy a traditional meal at a house before going to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Merry Cemetery, which, unlike other cemeteries, seems to celebrate life; each gravestone features a humorous caricature and a short poem about the deceased. It was started by the folk artist Ioan Stan Patras in the 1930s, and the tombstones are hand-carved from oak and painted in the traditional colour of hope. It is a very colourful and interesting site.

    From here, we drive east along part of the route we travelled to get to Sapanta and on to Borsa in the eastern part of Maramures; this town is located at the foot of the Rodna Mountains and known for being a good ski resort in the winter season - we are staying outside the town, at the complex in the ski resort area.    Meer informatie

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  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaReiziger
    Viseu de Sus; The Mocanita
    Vans and cars modified for use on the line are on displayOur steam-powered train uses timber for fuelView en routeOn the trainOur train from a windowOur drop-off point enables a view of the complete train as it moves awayMaramures Mountain hike; logs along the valleyWe had to remove our walking shows to cross the river!Animals seen along the forested pathView down from the steep ascentThis is what a bear did in the woods the day before!Our packed lunch stop at the top of the ascentView back to the Maramures MountainsAnother view from the meadow part of the hike back to the Maramures MountainsThe meadow areaView across to the Rodna Mountains; our hotel is at the base of the ski slope seen in the distanceView down to the town of MoiseiHouse with wood for the winterCrossing the riverEnd of Maramures Mountains hike; A church in MoiseiSki Chairlift; views down and up!Rodna Mountains hike; the ascentViews on the ridge walk when the clouds liftEnd of Rodna Mountains hike; View across to the Maramures Mountains

    Maramures 2; Mountain hikes

    14–15 sep., Roemenië ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    For the Maramures Mountains hike, we drive from the ski complex area to Viseu de Sus at the end of the Vaser Valley and the starting point for Europe's last operational steam-powered forest trains, the Mocanita. The line was built in 1933 to transport timber from the valley to the sawmills in the town. The trains still operate, but mainly for the benefit of travellers. We take the train through the beech and spruce forests as far as Novat to start our hike (only 6 from the group opt for this).

    We walk along a forested valley for an hour before starting a steep ascent along logging tracks - hard work. We eventually reach a ridge and stop for our packed lunch before descending via meadows to a turning off to walk down a steeper path down to the small town of Mosei. Here, our Explore tour guide, Horea, treats us to a beer while we wait for the tour bus to pick us up. It's been a 10-mile hike in the Maramures Mountains, with over 500 metres of ascent from our starting point at Novat (itself 650 metres above sea level).

    We enjoy an included meal of beef stew followed by pork with rice at the hotel after a much deserved shower. We have been lucky with the weather today.

    Our second hike on the following day is into the Rodna Mountains. We take the ski chairlift close to our hotel and then continue with the ascent to join a ridge followed by a long mild descent to meet the bus; it is a shorter walk at 3 miles, with 200m ascent and 1200m descent, and less clement weather than yesterday at the start (it did improve) - the walk was still enjoyable.

    It is then a short drive to enter the region of Moldavia.    Meer informatie

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  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaReiziger
    Moldovita Monastery; view on entry - the Eastern wall is weathered
    The monastery occupies a fortified enclosure with towersClose ups of exterior frescoesFresco depicts the Siege of ConstantinopleInsideThe naveNuns on the site (a convent)Part of the fortified enclosureSucevita Monastery; entrance / tower on the cornerView on entryThe Ladder of Virtue fresco, with 32 steps to Heaven (zoom in) / Heaven frescoDetail on the northern wallFresco depicts the story of Moses' lifeInside the monasteryThe naveThe western wall is bare; legend says that the fatal plunge of the artist means that it is cursedView of the walls inside the monasteryChurch and courtyardEaster egg painting, a local Moldavian traditionDinner; mushroom roulade / rolled chicken thigh with mashed potatoes / black forest gateau

    Moldavia 1; The Painted Monasteries

    15 september, Roemenië ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We enter the Moldavia region of Romania and the Eastern Carpathians; we are in the southern Bucovina sub region - what would now have been the northern Bucovina sub region has been the Republic of Moldova since the end of WWII.

    There are 8 UNESCO World Heritage Site Monasteries in Bucovina ("The painted churches of Moldavia"); they are Byzantine Orthodox in style and noted for the external biblical frescoes (as well as the internal ones) which were used to educate the medieval population. The monasteries were founded during the reign of Prince Stephen the Great (1457-1504); Stefan cel Mare, a 15th-century Moldavian Prince,i s a national hero due to his epic battles with the Ottoman Empire in order to preserve the regions culturalidentity. We visit two of the five main Painted Monasteries; Moldovita and Sucevita.

    Our first one is the Moldovita Monastery, actually a convent. It was founded as a protective barrier against the Muslim Ottoman conquerors from the East.
    The second is the Sucevita Monastery, the largest of the monasteries in the region with massive towers and stone towers. See captions on photos for details.

    Between visiting the two painted monasteries, we stop off to see a local tradition; Easter egg painting. Duck and goose eggs (also ostrich and emu eggs) are emptied. Beeswax is used to protect parts not to be coloured before dipping into a natural yellow dye, and the process is repeated with other natural dyes. The results are amazing.

    After checking in at our accommodation, we enjoy a lovely meal.    Meer informatie

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  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaReiziger
    Sucevita to Putna hike, part of Via Transilvanica; Warning signs en route
    Forest trail view back, shortly after the startEvidence of logging!Via Transilvanica; the blue cross, and the circled T are waymarkers / km sign postToadstool1Bird / animal hideLogging activityLogging activityPutna Monastery; the hill where Stephen fired his arrow to mark the site of the churchEntrance gateView of the church through the gateTowerThe museum; image of Stephen the GreatView of the churchInside the churchMonk inside the churchInside the church; the Tomb of Stephen the GreatThe navePork knuckle with beetroot and horseradish

    Moldavia 2; Sucevita-Putna hike, Putna

    16 september, Roemenië ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    After breakfast, we are dropped off at the starting point for our walk from Sucevita to Putna via forestry paths in a valley to the north of Sucevita. Our route follows part of the Via Transilvanica Trail, a long-distance walking route crossing Romania. We follow a forest trail, then have some ascent and descent, before following a grassy valley to Putna, a village close to the Ukrainian border. It is a lovely 9-mile walk with some interesting views en route (see photos and captions).

    We visit Putna Monastery, one of Romania's most important working monasteries; it is significant because it contains the Tomb of Stephen the Great. The Monastery was founded in 1466 and is the oldest remaining in Moldavia.

    We then drive for over 3 hours to Bacau, where we stop off overnight en route to Tulcea on the Danube Delta.

    There is time for a bite to eat.    Meer informatie

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  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaReiziger
    Tulcea; this ancient port is the Gateway to the Danube Delta
    Memorial to Ivan Patzaichin (Romanian canoe racing coach and sprint canoeist)Part of the memorial ensemble to Ivan Patzaichin (Romanian canoe racing coach and sprint canoeist)Street artRiverside promenade; the white pelican is a symbol of the Danube DeltaStatue of Mircea the Elder, the most important Wallachian ruler during the Middle AgesCathedral of St NicholasView insideMap of the Danube Delta; we travel east to Crisan along the centre, and back on the northView of the boat pulling Anda, our pontoon (floating accommodation)Typical views along the Sulina Branch of the Danube Delta region as we head towards CrisanDinner tonight: pork, potatoes, gherkins / a local version of cheesecake2Helen and I celebrate our wedding anniversary on board the Anda

    Danube Delta 1; Tulcea and Crisan

    17 september, Roemenië ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We leave Bacau at about 8 am and drive south through Moldavia in the rain through fairly flat countryside. The view is desolate as we start to drive south-east towards the River Danube to cross over a 1.97km long bridge into the Dobrogea (Dobruja) Region of Romania; the Danube flows in a north-south direction here (due to old mountains) and then heads west, forming the border with Bulgaria, then up towards Serbia and on past Budapest, Bratislava and Vienna. The views and weather improve as we drive east to Tulcea and the Danube Delta.

    The Danube Delta is the second largest river delta in Europe and is the best preserved on the continent; it covers more than 1,500 square miles. The delta is where the River Danube empties into the Black Sea; most of the Danube lies in Romania (Tulcea county) with a small part located in Ukraine.

    We arrive at the ancient port of Tulcea and have a short wander around before boarding our floating accommodation (a pontoon named Anda), which is to be pulled around the Danube Delta by a small tugboat; these pontoons were originally accommodation for workers in the Delta region. We leave Tulcea and head out along the Sulina Branch of the three main channels of the Danube Delta towards Crisan, where we moor overnight.    Meer informatie

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  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaReiziger
    Our driver, Stefan, is a keen angler
    CrisanFishermen en routeFishermen en routeNet fishingOne of our two motorboatsCormorant / HeronWhite Pelicans on the lakeWhite Pelicans on the lakeCormorants on the lakeReed bedMila 23, part of the Crisan communeOur tugboat and pontoonOld local fishing boat / Old netting and support polesRussian Orthodox Church; many of the population in Mila 23 are of Russian descentIvan Patzaichin Museum: He grew up in Mila 23MedalsViews from the top of the MuseumAn old Russian watch towerTypical viewTypical viewOur tugboat pulling the pontoonRelaxing on the pontoonDinner; Chicken schnitzel / apple strudel

    Danube Delta 2; Crisan to Mila 23

    18 september, Roemenië ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    Crisan is a commune in Tulcea County that includes three villages - Caraorman, Crisan, and Mila 23 - located in the middle of the Danube Delta.

    In the morning, we disembark into two small motorboats and go along the back channel towards the Tre Iezere Lake area. There are many bird species in the Danube Delta as the terrain is difficult for their terrestial predators. We pass along the maze of channels fringed by wild reed beds and willow trees before visiting the lake area. We then carry on to Mila 23, a very interesting place. After a walk around, we reboard the pontoon for a late lunch and head along the north channel back in the direction of Tulcea. We are blessed with good weather all day, although the boat's speed made it chilly at times. A great day out, followed by lunch and relaxing on the pontoon.

    We stop overnight on the Delta, about 1 hour away from the port of Tulcea.

    Later on, it's dinner; it's a hard life!    Meer informatie

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  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaReiziger
    The first motorboat
    The second motorboatView on the Danube DeltaCormorants / SwanHeron / White EgretViewWhite Pelicans / Eagle being harassed by crowsViewDifferent scenery on this tripDifferent animals too; frogsTug boat guiding the pontoonTulcea; The Siret is the boat used by Nicolae Ceausescu when in the Danube Delta areaBucharest; dinner - ossobucco with risotto

    Danube Delta 3; Short excursion by boat

    19 september, Roemenië ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    After breakfast, we have a short excursion into the Danube Delta area where we moored last night on two small motorboats; another interesting trip with great views (see captions on photos).

    Then, it's back to the pontoon for coffee, a break, lunch, and the journey back to Tulcea; the tug boat does not pull us for this; it guides us from the side.

    From Tulcea, it is a 4-hour journey to Bucharest. We drive through the flat countryside, with some wind farms in action at the early part of the journey.. After about 1.5 hours, we cross the north-south leg of the River Danube again, leaving the Dobruja Region to re-enter the Wallachia Region of Romania, crossing the other side of the the region we left at the start of the trip.

    More flat countryside, and then the busy traffic of the nation's capital and back to Hotel Minerva. Later on, it's out for dinner with three others from the Explore Group to an Italian restaurant close to the hotel (Buongiorno); Italian food and culture are popular in Romania.    Meer informatie

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  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaReiziger
    En route; Monument to the Heroes of the Air
    Triumphal Arch; raised in 1922 to commemorate Romania's victory in WWIDimitrie Gusti National Village MuseumOld ChurchHalf underground houseOld MillsOld well structureOld ChurchOld houseWater wheelView over the lakeOld ChurchViews insideInside an old house

    Bucharest 1; National Village Museum

    20 september, Roemenië ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We drive from our hotel to the north of Bucharest en route towards the Dimitrie Gusti National Village Museum, an open-air Ethnographic Museum located in King Michael I Park that showcases traditional Romanian village life; it was inaugarated in 1936. We see many buildings that have been brought here from all over the country, and it is a great place to visit.

    We then get dropped off along Victory Avenue, close to the Romanian Athenaeum, to start our tour of the city.    Meer informatie

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  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaReiziger
    Victory Avenue; Romanian Athenaeum
    Equestrian Statue of Carol IOld building nearbyCentral University Library / Revolution SquareThe site of Nicolei Ceausescu's final speech in Revolution SquareMemorial of Rebirth; dedicated to the Romanian Revolution and to the efforts of the Romanian peopleThe Monument of Iuliu ManiuKretzulesku Church, an Eastern Orthodox ChurchThe Palace of the National Military CircleOld Town; AlleyOld Stock Exchange BuildingFormer Leon Berkowitz Bank buildingStreet sceneOld Princely Court Area; ruins (closed) date from the 15th centuryOld Princely Court Church (Biseria Curta Veccia) - the relics of St Anthony are in the small churchHanul lui Manuc, the oldest inn in BucharestViews insideStavropoleos Church (Greek)InsideOutside Caru' cu Bere; the oldest Brewery in BucharestInside Caru' cu BereCheers!CEC Palace, back on Victory AvenueSaramura de crap cu mamaliguta (carp with polenta)

    Bucharest 2; Victory Avene and Old Town

    20 september, Roemenië ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The capital city of Romania has left behind its communist history and earned nicknames such as "Little Paris" and "the Paris of the East."" The city stands on the River Dambovita and is hone to over 1.1 million residents.

    We walk along Calea Victoriei (Victory Avenue), a main thoroughfare that passes close to our hotel, to Revolution Square, before carrying on towards the historic cobblestoned Old Town. We see many fine buildings en route and then jink around the historic centre to see the main sites. See the photo captions for details, etc.

    Then Helen and I walk back to the hotel to rest; it is the final night of the tour.... we go out for the farewell group dinner later and enjoy a lovely meal.    Meer informatie

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  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaReiziger
    Victoria Avenue; Odeon Theatre
    Ouside the CEC Palace; Crosul Arenelor, a 10-km race between the Triumphal Arch and National ArenaKeeping the pace goingPalace of Justice on the other side of the River Dambovita from the Old TownView back to the Old Town from the other side of the riverApproaching the Palace of Parliament along Union AvenueGumball 3000 Rally stop in Bucharest; supercars en route from Ibiza to IstanbulGumball 3000 Rally stop in Bucharest; supercars en route from Ibiza to IstanbulFront view of the Palace of Parliament from Constitution SquareThe People's Salvation Cathedral (still under construction)The People's Salvation Cathedral (still under construction)Side view of the Palace of ParliamentRomanian FlagCismigiu Garden; Cismigiu LakeAnother view further onBucharest; The Paris of the EastDinner at Bucataria Local Food; Fried mullet wirh parsley sauce and polentaEnd of trip; Cheers!

    Bucharest 3; Palace of Parliament

    21 september, Roemenië ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Many of the Explore Group are leaving today, but we're stopping for an extra night in Bucharest.

    After breakfast, we retrace yesterday's route along Calea Victoriei to pick up from where we left off yesterday at the CEC Palace. There are a couple of events happening today that we see a part of (a running race and a supercar stopover). We cross the River Dambovita and walk round to join Union Avenue to walk towards the Palace of Parliament; this building has 1,100 rooms and is the second-largest administrative building in the world after the Pentagon in the USA. The dictator Nicolae Ceausescu wiped out a local neighbourhood, including churches, to build it. We are not able to visit, as it is booked out several days in advance.

    We pass the People's Salvation Cathedral situated on the same hill; this will be the tallest and largest Eastern Orthodox Church in the world when it is finished. We circle around the hill, cross the river, and then visit the Cismigiu Garden, a lovely park on our route back to the hotel to rest before going out for dinner.

    We go to a small local food establishment (Bucataria), recommended by Horea, for food and drink, and then have a final glass of red wine at Buongiorno, where we ate a couple of nights ago. It has been a great trip to Romania!    Meer informatie

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    Het einde van de reis
    22 september 2025
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