• Anglesey Abbey 1; The House

    9 kwietnia 2025, Anglia ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Helen and I have been members of the National Trust for a few years now and have visited Anglesey Abbey many times.

    Anglesey Abbey is in the village of Lode, 5.5 miles northeast of Cambridge; the property includes a country house, built on the remains of a priory, large gardens and landscaped grounds, totalling 98 acres, and a working mill (Lode Mill).  After an interesting history, the house was acquired by Lord Fairhaven as the last private owner of Anglesey Abbey; he made extensive additions to the house to provide room for his rapidly expanding collection of books, paintings, tapestries, clocks, furniture and objets d'art, and he left it to the National Trust when he died in 1966.  The interior is noted for its contents, as well as the beautiful rooms (see captions on photos).  

    This post describes a visit to the interior of the house that we have made previously (see captions on photos for details).
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  • Northstowe and neighbouring villages

    2 kwietnia 2025, Anglia ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Northstowe is a new town in Cambridgeshire; the site covers Oakington Barracks on the former RAF Oakington, a World War II airfield.  Northstowe is now a civil parish formed from Longstanton and Oakington and Westwick in April 2021; building first started in the early 2015, is ongoing, and forecast to have 24,400 residents in 10,000 homes long term. There are many new houses, but not many amenities, and, on the outskirts, there are small lakes

    It is convenient to start a circular walk from here from the Longstanton Park and Ride site here, and I do so with the Cambridge Rambling Club Wed A group.  We set off and walk close to the Park and Ride and one of the several small lakes here before turning off towards Rampton. The village is situated on the edge of The Fens and was well populated in Roman times before vanishing and reappearing in the Anglo-Saxon period.  The attractive Church of All Saints is one of a very few English churches with a thatched roof and one of only two in Cambridgeshire.  After stopping here, we pass the earthwork remains of a castle, known as Giant's Hill, are located to the east of the village by the church; construction started about 1140, but it was never completed.

    We now head south towards the parish of Oakington and Westwick, passing Westwick Hall, before diverting to Histon (to be covered in a future FP post). Later on, we rejoin the route and carry on to Oakington.  In 1940, a Royal Air Force bomber airfield, RAF Oakington, was constructed at Oakington covering 540 acres and this is reflected in the village sign; the site of the barracks is in the process of forming part of Northstowe.  In the 17th century, Oakington was considered to be a "hot-bed of religious dissent"; behind the churchyard of St Andrew's Church, there is a private burial ground containing the graves of three vicars who helped establish the non-conformist movement and various non-conformist churches in Cambridgeshire. Ejected from their livings, persecuted and imprisoned for propagating their faith during their lives, they became known as the 'Oakington Martyrs' in death.

    We carry on to the outskirts of Longstanton; the village was transformed by the opening of RAF Oakington in 1940, resulting in the building of three new housing estates in the village and a trebling of the population.  We passed St Michael's Church, situated towards the south of the village, built around 1230 and the second rare example of a church with a thatched roof in Cambridgeshire; it is now a Grade II listed building.

    We then follow the paths back to the Park and Ride, passing a cantilevered pillbox that was part of the RAF Oakington site, before seeing a bit more of Northstowe; it has been an interesting 12.4 mile walk.
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  • Dinky Doors

    26 marca 2025, Anglia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Dinky Doors are a series of miniature sculptures (with doors), lovingly made and hidden just out of plain sight in the beautiful city of Cambridge; they are intended as little portals into other worlds, made with a dollop of humour to spark imaginations and make people smile - and there is usually a story behind them.  The artists "dream of a world where the young, old, rich and poor can experience a 'jolt of joy’ or a ‘dollop of delight’ to brighten their day and momentarily forget their worries.  They were involved with "Moomoo-o-Tron III," one of the Cows about Cambridge (see other FP trip, July 2022)  which was auctioned off to raise money for charity.

    The artworks change over time and mysteriously appear in various locations; here are those that I have seen in situ:

    1.  Museum of Technology - Here, a  spaceship containing the Dinky Doors Supreme Leader has crashed into the wall.

    2.  Sedgewick Street - The Octospa artwork incorporates a bollard on the street which has been painted to look like a lighthouse; in front, there's a lighthouse keeper’s cottage (including the door) and, just outside, an octopus enjoying a spa bath in a flower bed.

    3. Parker's Piece - Situated at Reality Checkpoint, where the reality bubble of "gown" meets the reality of "town."

    4. Market Square - The Teloport-o-matic is a new and improved teleportation service costing only 3 pence.

    5. All Saints Garden - Love from above has a present on a doorstep for a demon behind the door; the present has been left by an angel on the roof above.

    6. Jesus Lock footbridge - The Ride and Park portal enables you to get a ride to Wandlebury or Milton Country Parlk, depending on your choice.

    7. Green Street - Rocket Rocket is a vehicle ror going off to find the Supreme Leader, powered by rocket (arugula).

    8. Sussex Street - Wonder Emporium is a little storefront where various knick knacks can be purchased for 3p each (genuine 3p coins only).

    9. Trinity Street - Mage's Pages outside the Cambridge Press bookstore a little book garden tended by a Bookmage and the source of all the books in the store.

    10. Parkside - Dinky Shrinky outside the Entopia Building on Regent Street next to Parkside is a solar-powered shrink ray and observation laboratory that can shrink both unhappiness and also CO2 emissions.

    11. Downing Street - 10 (and a quarter) Downing Street outside the New Museum site has a purple octopus pouring out of the door panels (perhaps from the Zoology Museum on the other side of the wall).
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  • Scramble! - The Summer of 1940

    13 lutego 2025, Anglia ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    It is that time of year again when IWM Duxford holds its winter spotlight exhibition; this year, it is "Scramble!" - the signal for RAF pilots in the Summer of 1940 during the Battle of Britain to run to their aircraft, take off, and engage the Luftwaffe in a battle for the skies. 

    The exhibition brings together some of the aircraft that actually flew during the Summer of 1940 during both the The Battle of France and The Battle of Britain campaigns; the captions on the photos describe where they were used.

    All exhibits have an interesting history. For example, the first Supermarine Spitfire Mk I (G-CFGJ) is the only airworthy aircraft in this IMW collection; it was issued to RAF Duxford in April 1940 flown by Squadron Leader Geoffrey Stephenson and was shot down in late May 1940 onto a beach near Calais - the remains were rediscovered in the 1980s; it returned to flight in 2014 and was then gifted to IWM Duxford. In addition, the Hispano Buchon was a Spanish license-built version of the Messerschmitt Bf 109 fighter - it featured in the film "Dunkirk" and the TV series "SAS Rogue Heroes". Furthermore, the MG Midget TA (GPC 671) car is of interest because it was registered to Douglas Bader who led the five-squadron "Big-Wing" from RAF Duxford in Sept 1940; Bader owned it until 1946, and is now in private ownership.

    Another interesting exhibition at IWM Duxford.
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  • Tamil Nadu; Mahabalipuram

    8 lutego 2025, Indie ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Our train arrives in Chennai at 6:45 am, having left Mysore at 8 pm yesterday evening; it stopped at many places, including Bangalore. It was a second-class sleeper and a long night. From Chennai, we travel south along the shores to Mahabalipuram on the Bay of Bengal, stopping off for a well-deserved dosa breakfast.

    Mahabalipuram, also known as Mamallapuram, was once a major port built in the 7th century by Mamalla, a Pallavas king; it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to masterful rock carvings from that time - these still exist today. The area is a boulder strewn landscape, and these were used for the rock carvings

    We visit Panch Rathas (Five Rathas - a Ratha is a processional chariot), a 7th century complex of monolithic rock shrines to honour the five Pandara brothers (see captions on photos for details).

    Next, we visit the Shore Temple; dedicated to Vishnu. It was built by Mamalla on a promontory by the sea; it used to be accessed by the beach, but the 2004 tsunami led to the building of walkway access. There is also a smaller shrine dedicated to Shiva that was added later.

    We then go to Arjuna's Penance, aka The Descent of the Ganges, a celebrated bas-relief carved on an immense rock with a natural vertical cleft symbolising the River Ganges; the story depicts the Sacerd River's descent from the sky, made possible by the penance of the sage Arjuna (Bhagirata).

    There are other smaller temples, monuments, and cave-temples in the area around Arjuna's Penance, and we walk around to see these.

    Later on in the evening, we walk down into Mahabalipuram to the Santana Fish Restaurant by the beach for our farewell dinner. Helen and I shared a fish curry, grilled fish with French fries, and washed it down with some British Empire beer.

    It's been a fantastic trip.
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  • Mysore 2; Chamundi Hill / Mysuru Palace

    7 lutego 2025, Indie ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We drive 13 km to the eastern outskirts of Mysore to the Chamundi Hill; at the top of the 335m high hill is the Hindu Chamundeshwari Temple dedicated to the Goddess Chamundeshwari (Durga), the patron Saint of the people and kings of Mysuru - she slayed the Demon King Mahishasura, the ruler of the hill.

    The hill can be accessed by a 1,000 step ascent, but this is done by devotees only who pat each step with a mix of red and yellow spices . We drive to the top and do a few only! We see the Temple (only Hindus can go inside) and are fortunate to see part of a festival as it leaves the Temple (good planning by our guide, Jojan).

    Later on, we return to the Mysuru Palace, also known as the Amba Vilas Palace, to see it in the daylight (there are seven palaces in Mysore); it was originally built and rebuilt (it was wooden) by the Wodeyars Dynasty, inside an old fort, but kept burning down - the current structure was constructed between 1897 and 1912 and designed by Henry Irving with a mix of architectural styles, after the Old Palace burnt down. It is the second most visited tourist attraction in India, after the Taj Mahal.

    We go in and follow the route through the downstairs interior, including the beautiful Pulblic Durbar Hall, and up to the seating gallery and the Private Durbar Hall. It is magnificent, with exquisite carvings and works of art from all over the world.

    We have some downtime in the hotel lobby before going to dinner. Then it's all aboard the Mysore to Chennai overnight train.....
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  • Mysore 1; Centre / Mysuru Palace (night)

    6 lutego 2025, Indie ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Mysore is known as the City of Palaces and is the cultural capital of Karnataka; situated at the foothills of Chamundi, it was the centre of the Kingdom of Mysore from 1399 to 1947. It is now the second most populated city in Karnataka (1.3 million).

    We arrive in Mysore (Mysuru) soon after midday and visit the Deveraja Market: the Dufferin Clock Tower stands in the square outside the market's entrance. The market was constructed above the Dewan Poirnaiala Canal that supplied water to the Mysore Palace; it is bounded by walls on all four sides and has three main aisles within. There are many fruit, vegetable, flower, and spice stalls, both inside the covered market and outside. We see these and walk around the surrounding area.

    In the evening, we visit Mysuru Palace to attend the Sound and Light Show, depicting and describing the 400-year history of Mysuru City and Mysuru Palace (we visit the Palace properly tomorrow). The buildings are illuminated in coordination with the sounds and music, and there is a lovely light show at the end.

    A full day.
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  • Karnataka; Bandipur Tiger Reserve

    5 lutego 2025, Indie ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Bandipur National Park is also known as Bandipur Tiger Reserve (a special name to reflect this status, as there are tigers here) and the area was once the hunting ground of the Maharajahs of Mysuru (now Mysore); it became known as the Venugopala Wildlife Park in the 1930s and became part of the Tiger Project in 1983. It has an area of 874 sq km.

    We leave our accommodation in the park at 5:40 am to be in time to transfer to the Forest Safari Transport outside the park for the dawn safari back in the park!. We travel offf piste see some wonderful animals, including the Indian Elephant and, very fortunately, a Bengal Tiger!! Others included Spotted Deer, Peacock, Mongoose, Painted Stork.

    Then it's back for a late breakfast. Helen and I have a walk up to see a small local community close to the accommodation and en route to Mangala Village before it gets too hot. Then, it's back for RnR, followed by lunch.

    Later in the afternoon, we leave at 4 pm for the afternoon safari. We see more Indian Elephants, as well as Spotted Deer, Langur Monkeys, Turtle. An animal we saw yesterday, but not today, was the Indian Gaur. A short while after we get back, it's dinner.

    In the morning, before breakfast, we go on a local nature walk close to the accommodation led by a guide; it is a great way to start the day, and surprisingly chilly at the start (7:15 am).
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  • Ooty (short for Udhagamandalam)

    4 lutego 2025, Indie ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We walk into Ooty from the railway station. Ooty was known as the Queen of the Hill Stations and as "Snooty Ooty" because officials from the British East India Company came to rule from here in the 18th century to escape the lowland heat.

    We have a walk round, but the main focus is to visit the Government Botanical Gardens, occupying 64 hectares in a terraced layout on the lower slopes of the Doddabetta peak; they are extremely attractive; see captions on photos for details.

    We leave Ooty and drive towards Bandipur National Park (in the state of Karnataka) via the Mudumalai National Park (still in Tamil Nadu); the two parks border one another via the same forest and the two states are separated by a bridge over a small river. We do see some wild animals en route.

    We check into our lodge style accommodation near Mangala village in the Bandipur National Park and watch Sir David Attenborough's "Wild Karnataka" natual history programme (2019) before a late buffet meal.
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  • Nilgiri Hills; Coonoor to Ooty by train

    4 lutego 2025, Indie ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We leave the hotel early (7:15am) to travel to Coonoor in the Nilgiri Hills. It is a spectacular drive, with many sharp hairpin turns, as we ascend the Western Ghats towards Coonoor (1,700m). Coonoor is a hill station known for its tea estates and coffee plantations.

    From Coonoor, we take the Nilgiri Mountain Railway to Ooty (another hill station); it was built by the British in the 19th century to negotiate the difficult mountain terrain and dense green forest between the two hill stations (the original train line from Mettupalayam ended at Coonoor). There are many fabulous views as we take this scenic journey to Ooty, rising from 1,700m to 2,200m above sea level and a travelling distance of 12 miles (see captions on photos for details).

    We get off at Ooty (see next post).
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  • Palakkad Fort / Tamil Nadu; Coimbatore

    3 lutego 2025, Indie ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We leave Kochi and head north, eventually taking a tunnel through the Western Ghats; this mountain range stretches 1,600 km along the western coast of India from Kerala to Gujarat.

    We reach the town of Palakkad and visit Palakkad Fort; this was built in the 18th century from granite and is one of the best preserved forts in Kerala.

    We carry on into Tamil Nadu towards Combiatore, the third largest city in the state, and a convenient base or stop-off for visiting the Nilgiri Hills (where we go tomorrow). We have a short tour of the market area before heading off to our hotel.
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  • Kochi 3; Kathakali dance / Boat trip

    2 lutego 2025, Indie ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Some of the group go to the optional Khatakali dance performance, a "story-play" that is said to be the very essence of Kochi; the concept is almost 400 years old, and melds dance, drama and music (both vocal and instrumental). We will see only a short extract, as the real thing goes on all day!

    The actor dancers are all male; there is no speaking, just symbolic hand gestures, eye movements, and face movements. Music is supplied by a vocalist marking the beat with a chengi (small gong) and rwo percussionists with drums.

    Our show comprised watching make-up being applied in part (this can be a 3 hour process, as heavily empasised features are created).

    We see a short extract from the Narakasura Vadhan in which Nakrathundi, the demon sister of the demon Narakasura, reaches heaven to kidnap beautiful women for her brother. Unfortunately, she falls in love with Jaynatan (green face) there and disguises herself as Lalitha (yellow face). Lalitha flirts with Jaynathan but is rejected, so she reverts to Nakrathundi (fangs, different hair) to battle with him; she loses, and he cuts off her breasts, nose and ears.

    The half-hour performance was really good with excellent singing and drumming; the facial expressions and eye movements were amazing to see.

    Later, we all set off on a boat trip at 4:30 pm from Fort Kochi to see the harbour area and some of the surrounding islands; this was really good and pleasant after a hot day (see captions on photos for details); we are very fortunate and see some interesting things.

    Then it's dinner! A full day.
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  • Kochi 2; Mattancherry

    2 lutego 2025, Indie ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Mattancherry forms the other part of Kochi Old Town and contains both the Mattancherry Palace and the Jewish Quarter.

    Mattancherry Palace is a colonial gem and was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century and given to the ruler of Cochin as a gesture of goodwill. It later underwent extensive renovation by the Dutch and became known as the Dutch Palace. The two storied, quadrilateral structure is built around a courtyard and is today a museum with murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana and other legends. In the so-called Dunbar Rooms, hang portraits of the Kerala rulers. An interesting visit.

    We walk up the road to the Jewish Quarter; it is home to many antique warehouses and spice rooms, which we see on our way to the Paradesi Synagogue, India's oldest active Synagogue The first Jews in India settled in the 1st century at Shingly, but persecution by the Portuguese in the 16th century made them move to Cochin, dividing into two groups, the Malabari Jews (black, descended from the original settlers) and the Paradesim Jews (white, who came from the Middle East). In 1940, there were 2,400 Jews here, but now only a few families remain. The Paradesi Synagogue has a tiled roof and a Clock Tower and was rebuilt with Dutch help in 1664 - there are many treasures here.

    Afterwards, we go to the interesting Ginger House Restaurant for lunch.
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  • Kochi 1; Fort Kochi

    1 lutego 2025, Indie ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After the short walk in Alappuzha, we set off in the minibus for Kochi, stopping off to see some of a festival at a small Hindu Temple en route. Later, we stop again to visit Chellanham, a fishing village and suburb of Kerala; it is interesting to see their colourful fishing nets being repaired and the quirky church in the form of a fishing boat.

    We reach Kochi (formerly Cochin); the city is built around a saltwater lagoon of the Arabian Sea and is actually a collection of narrow islands and peninsulars. It has a beautiful natural harbour and was originally founded on trade from the Jewish and Arabian Spice Traders in the 1st century. It grew in importance in the 16th century with the arrival of the Portuguese, then Dutch,and then English; it has an eclectic heritage.

    Kochi City is divided into 3 main regions; Fort Kochi, Mattancherry (both have old-world charm, with a blend of Dutch, Portuguese, and English buildings and form the Old Town), and the modern Ernakulam (shopping malls and glitzy apartment buildings). We focus on the first two, apparently!

    This afternoon, we visit Fort Kochi; we enjoy lunch at the Fort Paragon restaurant before exploring the area with our guide - see captions on photos for details. Of particular interest is the Chinese style of fishing; they are fixed installations operated from on or near the shore, with nets set up on bamboo and teak poles and held horizontally by huge mechanisms, which lower them into the sea.

    Our hotel is on Willington Island, a man-made island using soil dredged from the long Vembanad Lake (the other end is Alappuzha, see previous post - Vembanad Lake is the longest in India); it is home for the port of Kochi and the Naval Base, as well as many other port related trusts. After some downtime, Helen and I pop into the Maruthi Vilas Vegetarian restaurant near the hotel.
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  • Kerala Backwaters Tour from Alappuzha

    31 stycznia 2025, Indie ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We set off after breakfast from Thekkady and stop off at a tea plantation in Pattumaly on our way to the town of Alappuzha (aka Alleppey) in the Kerala Backwaters; we are going to an area of low-lying waterways, lagoons, and rivers running parallel to the Arabian Sea.

    We board our Gold River Houseboat, a converted rice barge, just after 1pm and head via waterways to Vembanad Lake; we cross the bottom most tip of this to the other side and circle round more waterways and then double back the other end of the long, narrow Vembanad Lake is at Kochi). We catch glimpses of the local lifestyle, seeing houses that back directly onto the waterways.

    We moor at about 6 pm, and then have a short walk locally, visiting a banana chip manufacturer and a coconut milk supplier. We return to the houseboats (there are two for the group) and eat together on the larger one, enjoying a splendid meal. There has been a lot of sitting around today, which is very tiring, but it's been another good one.

    During and after breakfast on the houseboat, we do another short trip back to the Alappuzha "harbour", visit a tourist shop, and have a short walk before travelling to Kochi.
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  • Kerala; Thekkady

    30 stycznia 2025, Indie ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We set off early for Thekkady so that we can stop off at some interesting places en route (see captions on photos for details).

    There are good views as we near the Western Ghats that separate Tamil Nadu and Kerala. It is a steep ascent to the top, where we cross into Kerala; surprisingly, the minibus has to stop for paperwork checks.

    Kerala is known for its coconut groves, paddy fields, hills, backwaters, and rainforests; the religions of Hindu, Christianity, and Islam are all practiced here. It is a very political state and has the highest literacy rate in India.

    At Thekkady, we visit a spice plantation; the tour is very informative and interesting. India is the world's largest exporter and consumer of spices, and the soil composition in Kerala is ideal for cardamom, cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon.

    After checking in at the hotel, we go to a house (Bar-B-Que) for an Indian food cookery class. It is a lovely evening, and we prepare and eat;
    Beans Thoran / Pineapple Curry / Alumni Masala / Fish Curry / BBQ Masala (chicken) / Okra Roast / Paratha.

    It was an amazing meal and experience.
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  • Madurai

    29 stycznia 2025, Indie ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Madurai is at the heart of the Tamil and Dravidian cultures, as well as being very important to Hindus; it was the Pandyan Dynasty capital from the 7th to 13th centuries, and Nayakan Dynasty capital from the 16th to 17th centuries. Religion and culture remain an important part of city life to this day.

    We visit the Thirumaki Nyakar Palace, where the power and wealth of the Nyakan Dynasty is evident in the remains of this once grand Palace - only the spacious courtyard and a few adjoining buildings remain now (see captions on photos). After a walk in the local area, we have lunch and return to the hotel.

    Later on, we go to the Meenakshi Sundareswarer Temple (aka Minakshi Temple); this is a historic Hindu Temple Complex dedicated to the Goddess Meenakshi, whose consort was Pavarti, a form of Shiva. It was originally built by the Pandyan and extensively added to by succeeding dynasties. It is within a high walled enclosure, and we walk around its perimeter wall, seeing the four main Gopura, which unfortunately for us are undergoing extensive renovation. We also get good views from the roof of a tourist shop, where we have the opportunity to buy Indian carpets (see captions on photos). We go inside for a tour and witness daily ceremonies.

    There is strictly no photography inside the complex. We enter via the North Gopura after dropping off cameras, bags, shoes, etc, and visit the Thousand Pillar Hall (now a museum) and its beautifully decorated columns. We then go to the Kambattadi Mandapa (aka Flagpole Hall) and see an evening ceremony. We are not able to visit Sundareswarer Shrine being non-Hindus, but we did see its gold roof from the tourist shop; nor can we visit the Mibakshi Shrine (also with a gold roof). Next, we go to and sit at the Potramarai Kulam (the Golden Lotus Tank), surrounded by pillared corridors. Finally, we exit via the North Gopura and are very fortunate to see the chariot with an image of Shiva bring transported to join his consort in another part of the temple, a nightly ritual

    Then it's back to the hotel for a late meal.
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  • Srirangam; Ranganatha Temple Complex

    28 stycznia 2025, Indie ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    After breakfast, we set off on the long drive to Madurai via Srirangam, a river island that is a neighthood of part of the city of Tiruchirapalli. Srirangam is a 2-mile long river island formed by the confluence of the Rivers Kaveri and Kollidam; the Ranganatha Temple here makes the town a Temple Town as the Temple Sanctuary, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, totally dominates it.

    The religious complex of Ranganatha is enclosed by fortress like boundary walls (prakaras) that are entered via ceremonial gateways (gopuras); it is the largest religious complex in the world that is used for active worship. It has a total of 21 gopuras and many pillared halls (mandapa), and it is built in the Dravidian style.

    The outer three boundary walls comprise residences for priests, hostels for pilgrims, and shops selling offerings. The Sacred Precinct begins from the fourth enclosure, and this area contains, amongst others, the most important shrines, including the inner sanctum with its gold plated roof; these can not be visited by non-Hindus, but the outer shrines and enclosures can be.

    We see what we can, led by our tour guide, Jojan, and afterwards, we visit the river ghats at Amma Mandapam, which is a short distance away on the river edge; this is where devotees come to bathe and have their heads shaved for ceremonies.

    We then carry on to Mandurai, arriving at our hotel at about 7:30pm. It's been along, but good, day!
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  • Puducherry (formerly Pondicherry)

    27 stycznia 2025, Indie ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Pondicherry is now known in the Tamil language as Puducherry and was established as the former capital of the French territories in India in 1674. It is located on the east coast of Tamil Nadu and is now the administrative capital of a union territory founded in 1926.

    After checking into our hotel, we cross the now dry canal (originally the demarcation between the French and Tamil areas) into the French Quarter; Pondicherry remained under French rule until 1954, and the French Quarter is laid out in a grid pattern.

    We visit the Sri Aurobindo Ashram; this is Pondicherry"s best known landmark and is a restful retreat - inside, there is strictly no photography, and absolute silence has to be observed. The focal point for disciples and followers of Sri Aurobindo is the flower festooned samadhi (his memorial) in the main courtyard under a frangipani tree.

    Next, we go to the Manakula Vinayaker Temple; this Hindu Temple is dedicated to Ganesha and has walls portraying his 40 different forms. It is very interesting inside, with good music but no photography.

    We walk through the attractive French Quarter, with its colonial buildings and street signs in French, to the Goubert Solai, the main promenade along the Bay of Bengal. We walk along this to the Old Lighthouse; close by is the statue of Mahatma Gandhi. We then see the Church of Our Lady of Angels (Notrre Dame) before going to the Rendezvous Restaurant at the top of a building for food. Another good day.
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  • Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary

    27 stycznia 2025, Indie ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    After breakfast, we drive through Chennai to stop off at the Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary on our way to Puducherry. Based around a freshwater lake, it is the oldest wildlife sanctuary in India (it was established in 1936), but also one of the smallest.

    The Bird Sanctuary is mainly visited by local people and is a protected area because it is an important breeding ground for large migrating birds such as herons, storks, cormorants, etc. Our visit coincides with the breeding season, and there are many birds here.

    The Sanctuary is off the beaten track, and we see some interesting views en route back to the main road to Puducherry and a stop off for lunch.
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  • Tamil Nadu; Chennai

    26 stycznia 2025, Indie ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Helen and I first visited India in Dec 1989 / Jan 1990 when we travelled independently through North India; our next visit was in early 2018 when we visited Central India with Explore Travel. So here we are, 35 years later, to complete our travels here (or have we....).

    Chennai (population 20 million), formerly Madras, is the capital state of Tamil Nadu (population 73 million); Tamil Nadu is 70% Hindu, so there are many Hindu Temples in the region, but there are also examples if many other kinds of religious architecture in the region. Chennai is a large city with lots of traffic, and the tour doesn't spend time here (for some reason 🙂).

    We had a good journey here, arriving at our hotel at about 7:45 am. By coincidence, today, January 26th, is India National Day, marking the adoption of the Indian Constitution in 1950 and signifying India's status as a democratic Republic. Flags are unfurled in ceremonies throughout the country, and we were in time to witness such a ceremony at our hotel (Grand Chennai by GRT).

    After rest, we have a short walk in the area around the hotel before meeting up with the others; after introductions, etc, we set up off in the minibus to the Mylapore area of Chennai. Here, we visit the Luz Church (built on 1516 by the Portuguese) and then go to the Kapaleeskwarer Temple; this Hindu Temple Complex was built in the 7th century in the Dracidian architectural style, and has a large tank in front of it.

    We finish off Day 1 with a lovely vegetarian meal before crashing out at the hotel.
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  • En route to Hanoi and Hanoi 3

    26 listopada 2024, Wietnam ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    On our journey back to Hanoi, we stop at Dong Treu and visit the Ceramic Village before heading on to visit the Hong Ngoc disabled people charity centre: here, disabled people, including second generation Agent Orange victims, can live, study and learn to make artistic products - some are astonishing, but photography of these is not allowed.

    In Hanoi, we stop off at a pre-arranged and private water puppet show by Phan Thanh Liem, who was born in a family with a long tradition of performing water puppet theatre; his generation is the 7th.

    After a couple of hours at the hotel, we head off to see Train Street, a narrow train bypass in Hanoi which sees a twice-daily train pass close to buildings on either side of the tracks (not while we were there), before going to our farewell dinner in the Old Quarter at the Hanoi Food Culture Restaurant and Cooking; another fabulous meal and the end of our Classic Vietnam tour with Intrepid Travel - we thoroughly recommend Vietnam, and this trip, to anybody reading this photojournal.
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  • Halong Bay

    25–26 lis 2024, Wietnam ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    It takes about 4 hours to Halong City from Ninh Binh. Halong City faces onto Halong Bay and is very new, large, and developing rapidly. At the harbour, the Intrepid Group has a private boat (Bien Ngoc Cruise); there are many much larger boats here!

    We set out into Halong Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site of outcrops, caves, and coves covering more than 1,500 square km that contains more than 2,000 pinnacle shaped limestone and dolomite karst outcrops; Ninh Binh, which we have just left, is said to be an inland Halong Bay. Halong Bay is considered to be one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World.

    We enjoy an excellent lunch as we sail through this magnificent seascape to Dao Titop; Tito Island is named after Marshall Tito, the Yugoslav communist who helped Vietnam in its time of need. The island has a small beach and a 400 step climb to a viewpoint over the bay.

    We then stop at the Ha Long Pearl Farm; apparently, 1 in 1,000 oysters gives a pearl naturally, but here they are able to stimulate greater production by injection to irritate the shell. There is also the opportunity to go kayaking, which I do (without the mobile); we see some lovely sites close up on the base of karst pinnacles. Then it's back to the boat for beers and another amazing meal at our mooring point for the evening close to Bo Hon Island.

    In the morning, we have an early start to beat the crowd for our visit to Bo Hon Island to Hang Sung Sot (Cave of Surprise). There are three caverns here and a vantage point with a great view over Halong Bay.

    We go back to our boat for breakfast, whilst heading back to the harbour to meet our minibus.
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  • Ninh Binh; Thung Nham Eco-tourism Park

    24 listopada 2024, Wietnam ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    In the afternoon, we go to the Thung Nham Eco-tourism Area in the Hai Nham valley; this is a major tourist attraction. We go to the Buddhist Cave by row boat; this is a natural cave that is 500m long with a statue of Buddha in the middle, but it is too dark to see anything. Next, we walk, stooping, along the Mermaid Cave with its system of stalactites. We walk through the attractive eco-park and are taken by larger rowing boats to see Bird Watching Island, where there are many Grey Heron and White Flamingo.

    Then it's dinner in Tam Coc after a break; another full-on day.
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  • Ninh Binh; Hang Mua and Bich Dong Pagoda

    24 listopada 2024, Wietnam ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    This morning we drive to the Hang Mua (aka Dragon's Den Cave) and the associated Mua Mountain viewpoint (aka Lying Dragon Mountain), which is part of the Trang Am Complex in Ninh Binh province; the cave is at the foot of the mountain. It is a climb of 500 steep steps to the two peaks of Mua Mountain, the highlight being a Buddhist statue and a lying stone Dragon (Ngra Long) protecting it. There are excellent 360-degree views at the top. At the base of the mountain are large lotus ponds, which we walk around. See captions on photos for details.

    We return to our hotel, and after a break, I have a walk through our village, Dam Khe, to the local Pagoda. It turns out that this is an important site in Ninh Binh - the Bich Dong Pagoda and Cave. Located on a mountain, it is on three levels - Ha Pagoda, Trung Pagoda, and Thuong Pagoda (lower, middle, upper), with the upper two being partly in caves. Very interesting to see!
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  • Ninh Binh; Van Long Wetlands and Hoa Lu

    23 listopada 2024, Wietnam ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We drive to the Ninh Binh province and the Van Long Wetlands Nature Reserve (almost 2 hours); this is one of the few intact Lowland inland wetlands remaining in the Red River Delta. Here, limestone karst is surrounded by freshwater lakes, marshes, and swamps. We are taken out on row boats to see the area and are fortunate to see the rare Delacour Langur monkey. We enjoy fantastic views.

    It is then a short drive to Hoa Lu; this historic site was the first capital of Vietnam from 968 - 1009. Dinh Bo Linh founded the Dinh Dynasty; this lasted for 12 years and was followed by the Le Dynasty, which lasted for 25 years - the founder of the Ly Dynasty transferred the capital to Thang Long (now Hanoi). The site is mainly ruins now, but Temples remain for the Dinh and Le dynasties.

    After this, we have a home-prepared lunch and transfer to our hotel. Some of us go put for a cycle ride in the local area; a circular route from Dam Khe hamlet where the hotel is located to Tam Coc and back; this is most enjoyable.

    We enjoy a simple meal with beer later.
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