• Andrew's Travels
jul. 2020 – set. 2025

Norfolk

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  • Inicio da viagem
    14 de julho de 2020

    Norwich; Urban Ramble, part 1

    14 de julho de 2020, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    This urban ramble finds us in the beautiful medieval city of Norwich and is just over an hour from Cambridge. It is the first "big trip" since lock down!

    After checking in at The Maids Head Hotel - claimed to be the oldest hotel in the UK - we walked down the riverbank to the station to start the walk by going up the hill to pass through Rosary Cemetery which was the first non-denominational burial ground in the UK. It was interesting to walk around, before navigating through the ancient woodland of Lion Wood - a remnant of Thorpe Wood which was mentioned in the Domesday Book. Eventually we reached the old Brittania Barracks located on St James Hill, close to Mousehold Heath, with spectacular views of the city; the barracks were the former home of the Royal Norfolk Regiment, but now form part of HM Prisons Norwich.

    From here we proceeded down the hill to the city and the River Wensum, which passes through it. On the far bank is Cow Tower, built in the 14th century as part of the city's strategic defence systems. We had a short walk along the river before crossing the Bishop Bridge (1340) - one of the oldest bridges in England - before doubling back to Cow Tower. We walked along this bank passing the modern and attractive Jarrold Bridge before reaching Norwich Quayside, the heart of the city in medieval times.

    We crossed Fye Bridge and walked along Colegate, with its many historic buildings, before reaching St George's Church and crossing the bridge there.
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  • Norwich; Urban Ramble, part 2

    14 de julho de 2020, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    After crossing St George's Bridge, we passed the Old Technical School to reach The Halls; comprising St Andrew's Hall and Blackfriars Hall (14th century), they make up the most complete friary complex in England. St Andrew's is the centre piece, as it is constructed in the local flint. This area is known as the Norwich Lanes and is full of interesting little shops.

    Next we arrived at the Marketplace - this has the beautiful 15th century Guildhall on one side and the art deco City Hall, guarded by sleek bronze lions, on another with the market - the largest open air market in the country - nestling in the middle. We walked along the Memorial Gardens to the Church of St Peter Mancroft, opposite the Guildhall, and then proceeded down to and through the splendid Royal Arcade, a beautiful and covered shopping street. This brings you out to Norwich Castle (now a museum and unfortunately closed for the time being) situated on its mound; it was founded by William the Conqueror and was originally a Motte-and-bailey castle.

    Leaving this lovely area we walked to Elm Hill, a historic and cobbled lane and the most complete medieval street in the city; it was derelict and decaying one hundred years ago, but fortunately the Norwich Society was able to change the plans to demolish it
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  • Norwich; Urban Ramble, part 3

    14 de julho de 2020, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Just opposite the Cathedral close is Tomblands, originally a pre-Norman market place, and the oldest part of Norwich. Passing through the Erpingham Gate, you reach the west entrance of this magnificent Norman Cathedral and vast expanse of the close - the cloisters are second only in size to those of Salisbury Cathedral. We had a look around the cathedral and then walked down The Close to Ferry Lane and the River Wensum. Here is Pulls Ferry, an old ferry house where the monks built a canal under the arch to ferry stone from the river to their construction site.

    From here it was back along the river the railway station to complete the urban ramble around and in the wonderful city of Norwich
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  • Norwich; Urban Ramble, part 4

    15 de julho de 2020, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    This walk is from an old booklet we have called "North Norfolk Rambles" and covers a circular route from Cow Tower and passes through Mousehold Heath, Waterloo Park and Sloughbottom Park before doubling back to the Wensum. We diverted here to see some other interesting sites of Norwich.

    From Cow Tower, we followed the route and had more fine views of the city. We diverted from the Gilman Road perimeter and into Mousehold Heath itself. Crossing through this mainly wooded area we eventually arrived at Lazar House; this 900 year old flint building was originally a leper hospital, became Norwich's first branch library and is now part of Norwich Assist. From here we proceeded to Waterloo Park, originally considered the finest park in East Anglia due to its lovely gardens,, and dominated by the its bandstand and art-deco central pavilion. We walked to Sloughbottom Park for completeness - sports fields, playgrounds, BMX track, pavilion - and then proceed back to the river and crossed over the Dolphin Bridge to walk along a track which follows the old railway route to the site of the old Norwich Station (now long gone - it is now a main roundabout). There is an interesting building near the roundabout - "the 10-sided toilet on St Crispin’s Road dates back to 1919 and is believed to be the oldest surviving concrete urinal in the UK. It has been granted Grade II listed status, and is now being renovated". Not open for use yet!

    We now diverted to see the last remaining sections of city wall on Grapes Hill and then a little further to visit The Cathedral of St John the Baptist outside them. This is the second largest Roman Catholic Cathedral in England and is one of the dominating features of the Norwich skyline we saw from St Jame's Hill (see earlier post).

    A good morning of exploration to see some "hidden Norwich".
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  • Norwich; Urban Ramble - revisited

    15 de agosto de 2020, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I went back to Norwich with friends from Duxford ("Friday Forum" Plough group) and treated them to the Urban Ramble Tour (parts 1 to 3); there was also time (and inclination) to visit a few of the fine pubs that are present in Norwich, the "City of Ale". Here are a few supplementary images of this beautiful city, presented in the order of the original posts, together a couple of pub highlights..

    Part 1 - The Maids Head Hotel really is a fine place to stay and highly recommended (we were in the Premier Inn, Nelson this time!)
    Part 1 - With care and a good zoom camera you can see Norwich Castle in some detail from St James Hill
    Part 1 - The modern Jarrold Bridge seems to float over the River Wensum (the posts are not part of the structure)
    Part 2 - On the corner of the market square is the Jarrolds Department Store, established since 1770

    The Adam and Eve claims to the be the oldest pub in the city.
    The Fat Cat is usually packed out and serves 30 real ales - in these Covid-19 times, we were able to get a table and choose from only 15 real ales! A wonderful place.
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  • Town sign
    Victorian Clock TowerChurch of St EdmundsCastle Hotel / Dial HouseVictorian railway station / Signal boxHeygates Mill, viewed across the River Great Ouse Relief Channel

    Downham Market

    6 de setembro de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Downham Market is situated on a terrace overlooking the Great Ouse and was an important market centre for the surrounding agricultural area, as it incorporated a famous horse fair and weekly livestock and butter markets; the Town Hall was used as the Corn Exchange.  With the coming of the railway there was a rapid industrial and residential development into Downham Market; a steam mill was built next to the railway and this is now run by Heygates, one of the 4 main flour suppliers in the UK.

    At the southern end of the town centre is a decorative town sign depicting the crown and arrows of St Edmund with horses to show the importance of the horse fairs in the town's history.  At the Market Square, we see the Victorian Clock Tower and other old buildings, including the Town Hall and the Crown Coaching Inn.  Behind the Square is the medieval Parish Church of St Edmund, built of local carrstone, sited on the crest of a hill with fine views of the town and the fenland landscape beyond.  Walking back down the High Street we pass Castle Hotel (recently closed and scheduled to become flats), with its distinctive parapet, and then along Station Road we see the 18th-century Dial House (once a private school for gentlemen in the 1860s but now a bed and breakfast), with its sundial painted high on the wall.  We soon reach the Victorian era Downham Market railway station, also built of carrstone with pale brick dressings, and the old signal box; both are now Grade II listed buildings.  Next to the station is the distinctive looking Heygates Flour Mill, which is visible for miles around.  A short, but interesting, visit to the town.
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  • King's Lynn Quayside in the distance
    Marriott's Warehouse / Hanse HouseKing's Lynn Minster / Trinity Guildhall and Town HallThe Custom House with statue of Captain George VancouverSt George's Guildhall / St Nicolas' ChapelGreyfriars Tower / Red Mount Chapel

    King's Lynn

    8 de outubro de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    King's Lynn, known until 1537 and the dissolution of the monasteries as Bishop's Lynn, is a port and market town in Norfolk.  It was one of England’s most important ports from as early as the 12th century, and the Hanseatic League - a powerful German trading organisation made up of merchants from North Germany and neighbouring countries around the Baltic Sea - contributed greatly to this prosperity; there are still many historic buildings, merchants' houses etc to see today.

    This "Heritage Trail" walk starts at Quayside, where there is Marriott's Warehouse (a 16th century warehouse that is now a restaurant) and close by is Hanse House (the only surviving Hanseatic business HQ in England and dating from 1475).  Just round the corner is the Saturday Market Place which is surrounded by King's Lynn Minster, formerly St Margaret’s Church and designated as a Minster Church in 2011 by the Bishop of Norwich, and the Town Hall and Trinity Guildhall.  Back to the quay, it is a short walk to the Grade I listed and iconic Custom House and from there, walking up King Street, we pass St George's Guildhall, the largest surviving 15th century guildhall in England, to reach the huge Tuesday Market Place, a beautiful square now used as a car parking area.  

    The trail continues past St Nicholas' Chapel - unfortunately closed - and a Fisherfolk museum before heading back down through the modern town to reach Tower Gardens.  These contain Greyfriars Tower, the last surviving significant part of a 13th century priory; it survived the Reformation because it was an essential seamark for ships.  Adjacent to Tower Gardens are The Walks, a lovely walking area where the Red Mount Chapel can be found; this was a wayside chapel for pilgrims heading to the shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham - it is one of only two octagonal chapels in Europe.  

    It has been a good visit to an interesting town.
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  • Felbrigg Hall
    The Great HallDrawing Room / Cabinet Room, showing pictures and exhibits from the European Grand TourLibrary; Secret cupboard with chamber pot / Servants library (the small cabinet!)Library; Celestial Globe (1799) and Terrestrial Globe (1814)Victorian slipper bath / Rose BedroomChinese Bedroom / KitchenWalled Garden; octagonal dovecoteWalled Garden / Felbrigg LakeFelbrigg Church; St Margaret's

    Felbrigg Hall, Gardens and Estate

    25 de fevereiro de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    We're off to Cromer in Norfolk for a couple of nights and stop off at Felbrigg Hall en-route (to make full use of our National Trust Membership!).

    Felbrigg Hall is a 17th-century English country house noted for its Jacobean architecture and fine Georgian interior.  We visit the house interior (see captions on photos); it is very attractive and interesting.  We look round the Walled Garden (not the ideal time of year to do so, unfortunately) and then head off from the Hall on a circular walk via the Estate (seeing St Margaret's Church and Felbrigg Lake) and through the nearby villages of Metton and Sustead; it is 6.2 miles and a good walk.

    After that, it's off the Cromer Country Club, where I enjoy a swim, hot jacuzzi, steam room, and sauna before dinner!  A good day.
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  • Blickling Hall, Gardens, and Estate

    27 de fevereiro de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    After a visit to Cromer yesterday, as part of a circular walk from the hotel, we are now on our way home and visit Blickling Hall en-route (this is also a National Trust property).

    Blickling Hall is a Jacobean stately home built on the ruins of a Tudor house; this is believed to have been the birthplace of Anne Boleyn, one of the future six wives of King Henry VIII.  During the Second World War, RAF air crew were billeted here while its owner, Lord Lothian, influenced Winston Churchill’s actions; the Hall was the Officer's mess, whereas service men where in Nissen huts. Blickling Hall is very large and really beautiful, a jewel in the NT crown; we are able to walk round parts of the ground and first floors (see captions on photos) - the Long Gallery, now the library, has 12,500 books and is the largest book collection cared for by the NT.  

    We visit the Gardens - seeing the parterre garden, the Doric Temple and the Orangery - before setting off on an Estate Walk (excellent maps are provided by the NT).  We walk up past the lake behind Blickling Hall and across to the Great Wood, seeing The Mausoleum; this large pyramid was built in 1794 for John Hobart, the second Earl of Buckinghamshire.  Then it's across to The Tower; this was built in the 18th century as a grandstand for the steeplechase racecourse that occupied what is now Tower Park (now a grazing area).  Then it is through Plantation Wood and via Pond Meadow to Blickling to pass the Church of St Andrew on our way back to Blickling Hall. It has been another excellent walk; this is followed by a quick lunch and the journey back home to reality!
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  • Castle Acre; Town, Castle and Priory

    14 de abril de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We're staying in Old Hunstanton in North Norfolk for a week and stop off at Castle Acre on the way here.

    Castle Acre is a rare and complete survival of a planned Norman settlement; it includes a castle, town, parish church, and associated monastery. It is situated on Peddar's Way, a trade and pilgrim route. There is a 12th century Bailey Gate as you enter the main street

    The Castle was founded as a country house after the Norman Conquest by William de Warenne, a Norman Knight who fought at Hastings. It was converted to a strong keep in the 12th century.

    From the Castle, we walk up to the Church of St James the Great; this has Norman origins but was restored in the 14th and 19th centuries - it is very large, reflecting how busy the town was then.

    Castle Acre Priory is one of the best preserved Monastic sites in England. It was founded around 1090 by the son of William de Warenne and was inspired by the monastery at Clunes, France. We enter via a 15th century gatehouse; the Priory has a spectacular west frontage, with access to the 12th century Priory Church. We follow the route via the nave, cloister, and chapter house to the Prior's lodging, chamber, and chapel (dating from the Tudor times).

    A spectacular start to our week away.
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  • Old Hunstanton; Village Sign
    Old Hunstanton; Church of St Mary the VirginOld Hunstanton; there are still some original houses here!Old Hunstanton; Hunstanton Links Golf CourseAlong the River Hun to Holme-next-the-SeaOn the Peddars WayRingstead (aka Great Ringstead locally); Tower windmill (now disused) / Village SignRingstead; Church of St AndrewRingstead DownsThe ruins of the Chapel of St Andrew at what was the medieval village of Little Ringstead

    Old Hunstanton and Ringstead

    15 de abril de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    It started off very windy and wet today but perked up before midday when we went out.

    Old Hunstanton is a quiet, small village compared to what is known locally as "New" Hunstanton. We walk around the village and see many very expensive houses that have been built or are being built. Hunstanton Golf Course is here, and we walk along a footpath, skirting the edge of the links course and following the course of the River Hun, to the next village, which is Holme-next-the-Sea This is the meeting point for the Peddars Way and the Norfolk Coastal Path; we follow the Peddars Way as far as Ringstead. This is a small village, also known as Great Ringstead, to distinguish it from the nearby deserted medieval village of Little Ringstead, aka Barret Ringstead.

    We walk across the attractive Ringstead Downs, a chalk grassland nature reserve on the edge of the L 'Estrange family estate where Hunstanton Hall, the original family home, is situated; as we head back up to Old Hunstanton, we see the ruins of the Chapel of St Andrew at what was Little Ringstead.

    It's been 8.4 miles and a good walk.
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  • Royal Sandringham; House and Garden

    17 de abril de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Sandringham House is a royal residence of King Charles II, and usually used by Royalty in the winter; it was originally a large manor house in the Elizabethan era and was rebuilt in the Jacobean style between 1870 and 1900. It is the home of the Royal Stud and has excellent shooting on the grounds.

    We visit inside the house, where there are excellent guides to describe the various rooms downsrairs that are open to the public; these include the saloon, drawing rooms, dining room, and no photographs are permitted. We also see a collection of 26 innovative garments and accessories, made using plant waste taken from Royal Gardens, including Highgrove and Sandringham, as part of an ongoing collaboration between VIN + OMI and His Majesty.

    Outside, we visit The Old Stables Courtyard and former Coach House, where there is a small museum showing old Royal Cars and the Sandringham Fire Engine (now no longer used). We walk around the Sandringham Gardens via the stream, Lower Lake, Upper Lake, Topiary Garden, and North Garden before visiting St Mary Magdalene Church; this is used by the Royal Family when in residence. After lunch, we follow the 3 mile Nature Trail walk around the Royal Parkland.

    It has been a really interesting visit.
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  • Burnham Thorpe; Village Sign / Carving of Nelson on the village green
    Burnham Thorpe; Plaque on the wall of The ParsonageBurnham Thorpe; All Saints ChurchBurnham Thorpe; All Saints Church;Views en route to North CreakeNorth Creake; Village Sign / Bridge over the River BurnNorth Creake; St Mary's ChurchNorth Creake; St Mary's ChurchRuins of Sy Mary's Abbey, aka Creake AbbeyRuins of Sy Mary's Abbey, aka Creake Abbey

    Burnham Thorpe and the Creakes

    19 de abril de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    We drive to Burnham Thorpe and park near the church. Burnham Thorpe is a hamlet on the River Burn and famous for being the birthplace of Horatio Nelson, the victor at The Battle of Trafalgar on HMS Victory. His father was the rector of All Saints Church when he was born; the house where Nelson was born was demolished soon after his father's death, but a plaque commemorates his birth.

    We start our walk at the church, passing a flint and stone barn, to meet the wall around Holkham Park. Here, we follow the course of an old Roman Road south and then turn down a farm track. There are good views en route before we turn to follow the road to North Creake, also situated on the River Burn. We visit St Mary's Church and walk through the village before taking the road and then a bridleway north towards Creake Abbey ruins; these Grade I listed ruins are St Mary's Abbey and now under the care of English Heritage.

    The Abbey was at its peak in the 14th century but was destroyed by fire in 1483. It was rebuilt in parts, but the Monastic community was wiped out by sickness in 1506.

    We walk on to Burnham Thorpe, seeing some more of the pretty village. Another great day out, and 10.1 miles of easy walking.

    In the evening, we meet up with our old friends Paul and Miriam for dinner; they used to live in Duxford, but now live in Norfolk.
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  • The dramatic frontage to Oxburgh Hall
    Entrance; entry / view from courtyardSide view of moat and HallSide view / view from the other side, showing the French Parterre gardenClose up of the chimneys and crennelationsChapel of St Margaret and Our Lady, built in the 18th centuryInside Oxburgh HallInside Oxburgh HallClose up of the Oxburgh Hanging; needlework by Mary, Queen of Scots, and Bess of HardwickKing's Room / priest hole: accessed via a closet and lavatory, and used to hide priests

    Oxburgh Estate

    21 de abril de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    We stop off at the Oxburgh Estate, near Swaffham, on our way home. Oxburgh Hall is a moated Manor house originally built by Sir Edmund Bedingfield as a symbol of power in 1482. It underwent extensive refurbishment in the mid 19th century, and this Grade I listed building is now managed by the National Trust

    The Bedingfield family were strong Catholics, but things changed in the 16th century during the reigns of Elizabeth I and Henry VIII when Catholics were persecuted and even executed for sheltering Catholic priests.

    We walk around the gardens and part of the grounds before visiting the house itself (part is still used as a family residence); there are many portraits and artefacts describing the Bedingfield family's turbulent history. The house is particularly noted for the Oxburgh Hanging and a priest hole (see pictures and captions).

    It has been another excellent visit to Norfolk.
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  • Visitor access to Houghton Hall is via the Stables
    Side view of the Stables and Houghton HallRear view of Houghton HallThe SaloonThe Embroidered Bed ChamberThe Marble ParlourThe State RoomThe State RoomIn the Walled GardenIn the Walled GardenIn the Walled GardenIn the Walled GardenIn the Walled GardenIn the Walled Garden

    Houghton Hall 1; House and Walled Garden

    18 de setembro de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Helen and I are off on a day trip to Norfolk to visit Houghton Hall. 

    Houghton Hall is a country house in the parish of Houghton and now the residence of the 7th Marquess of Cholmondeley; it was originally constructed in the 1720s for Britain's first Prime Minister, Sir Robert Walpole.  The Hall is surrounded by extensive parkland and features notable attractions, including an award-winning Walled Garden. 

    We explore the Hall and Walled Garden; they are both very beautiful - see captions on the photos.
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  • Houghton Hall 2; Grounds and Exhibitions

    18 de setembro de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    After visiting the Hall, we explore the parkland around it; this is known for its iconic white fallow deer and the grounds which feature the local church and a water tower with the appearance of an architectural folly - it was constructed by Sir Robert Walpole and restored in 1982 (it is now a Grade I listed building).  Closer to the Hall, the Stables contain the world's largest private collection of model soldiers in the Model Soldier Museum located in one of the stable buildings.

    There is a large Sculpture Park in the grounds around the Hall, which contains an impressive permanent collection of contemporary sculptures.  The Hall often has exhibitions, and 2024 has major solo exhibitions by:

    1)  Dame Magdalene Odundo; her main feature is a glass installation called "Metamorphosis and Transformation," a tribute to ancient Egyptian artefacts and narratives of migration, and

    2) Antony Gormley; this features 100 life-size sculptures distributed across the 300 acres of the park.  They are cast-iron sculptures, each weighing 620kg and standing at an average of 191cm, and installed at the same datum level to create a single horizontal plane across the landscape.  Thus, some works are buried, allowing only a part of the head to be visible, while others are buried to the chest or knees according to the topography; only occasionally do they stand on the existing surface and some of the works are placed on concrete columns that vary from a few centimetres high to rising four meters off the ground.

    We see as many things as we reasonably can; it has been a truly excellent day out!
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  • Visitor Centre
    Visitor centre; picture of Grime's Graves from aboveVisitor centre; Tools used and flint specimensDescending into Pit 1Bottom of the shaftView into a mining area and the bottom floorstone (flint)View into a mining area and the bottom floorstone (flint seam)Middle wallstone (note the flint seam)Upper topstone (note the flint seam)Grimshoe Mound (at the back); Grim's burial mound, from "Grim's Howe"General view of the areaGeneral view of the area

    Grime's Graves

    16 de abril, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We arrive at Grime's Graves and go to the visitor centre first.

    The name Grime's Graves means "pits of the pagan god Grim" (Grim is also known as Woden) and was named by the Anglo Saxons. It is a prehistoric / Neolithic flint mine that was worked between 2,600 and 2,300 BC; the site covers about 91 acres, and there are many shafts dug into the natural chalk to reach the seams of flint.  There are three layers of flint here - the upper "top-stone, middle "wall-stone" and the bottom "floor-stone" - and the flint was used for making stone axes in this period,  The formation of flint is a complex process which began in the chalk seas millions of years ago, and flint forms in bands or layers because chalk sedimentation occurs in cycles and/or because the process during formation exhausts the silica within a given depth of sediment and flint formation can only recommence when there is enough silica to start the process again.  The site was first extensively explored by the archaeologist William Greenwell in 1868.

    We visit the one pit open to the public (9m deep, with a steep staircase) - it is the only one of its kind open to the public in the UK - and we enter it to explore the shaft.  Afterwards, we take the walking trail around the site; Grime's Graves is a really interesting place to visit.
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