• Cavtat

    27 september 2022, Kroatien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Cavtat is the most southerly Croatian resort of all, located around 20 km south of Dubrovnik and only 22 km from the border with Montenegro; it is a village by the sea in a small bay with a seafront promenade. 

    The final night of our Journey through the Balkans is spent here and we have the chance to explore this lovely place (see picture captions) before a farewell dinner with our fellow Explore travellers.
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  • Dubrovnik 2; More of The Old Town

    27 september 2022, Kroatien ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    From the Gate of Pile - without the guide - we walk round the north part of the Old Town and look into one of the many Games of Thrones shops in the town.  Back on the south part, we exit a small gate through the walls and descend down to a cafe and onto the rocks on the sea. Then it is back to the harbour area for a visit to the Porporela, a breakwater in the old city port; this is an old town landmark and 19th century pier which is popular for short walks and sea views.

    There is a lot more to do in Dubrovnik - the museums, a walk around the walls, a visit to Lokrum Island - but these will have to wait for the next visit here.....
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  • Croatia - Dubrovnik 1; The Old Town

    27 september 2022, Kroatien ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Dubrovnik is a city on the Adriatic Sea in the southeast of Croatia; it is a UNESCO site in recognition of its medieval architecture and fortified old town. The Old Town is surrounded by a series of defensive stone walls and is one of the Mediterranean's top tourist destinations.

    It is a fantastic place and we joined a guide for his tour of the Old Town (mainly following the blue line on the free city tourist map, but with a few diversions), starting at the Gate of Ploce.  We see many of the Old Towns churches and main sites (see captions on pictures) as we criss-cross the southern part of the Old Town to the Stradun (main street) and reach the Gate of Pile.
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  • Tvrdos Monastery and Trebinje

    26 september 2022, Bosnien och Hercegovina ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    We drive south towards the Adriatic and visit the 15th century Serbian Orthodox Tvrdos Monastery, situated on cliffs above Trebinje. The Monastery was destroyed by an earthquake in the 17th century and rebuilt in 1920; the original 4th century roman church foundations are still visible inside the church. Tvrdos Monastery is renowned for its wine production and, yes, we sampled the white and the red.

    Trebinje is the southernmost city in BiH; it is situated on the River Trebisnjica and is only 28km from Dubrovnik. The small, walled Old Town is 18th century Ottoman and this is surrounded by Austro-Hungarian (1878-1918) buildings; there are also 10 forts on the hills surrounding the city.

    We have a tour of the Old Quarter and see the two mosques; the taller one cost the life of its builder as it was larger than that of the more dominant sultan. Outside the Old Quarter we see sites of the Austro-Hungarian period.

    We then walk along the river to see the Arslanagic-Perovia Bridge; this was moved downstream due to the building of a dam. Because of this fact, this historic Bridge is not able to obtain UNESCO status.
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  • Mostar

    25 september 2022, Bosnien och Hercegovina ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Mostar is the historic capital of Herzegovina (just as Sarajevo is for Bosnia). It is situated by the Neretva River and this is crossed in the Old Town by the famous Stari Most (Old Bridge). The Bridge dates from 1566, but was destroyed in the Bosnian War; it was reconstructed and had a grand re-opening in 2004 - it is now UNESCO protected.

    We vist an old 16th centuryTurkish House (Katjaz House) and the walk the cobbled streets of the Old Town, before returning to the Koski Nehmed Mosque; this has a beautiful interior and it possible to climb the steep steps of the minaret for magnificent views of the city.

    After dinner we walk around the beautiful Old Town again.
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  • Konjic and Tito's Bunker

    25 september 2022, Bosnien och Hercegovina ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We drive to Konjic; ARK D-O, aka Tito's Bunker, 10 minutes from here. This is a cold-war era Nuclear Bunker / Command Centre to protect President Tito and his inner circle of 350 in the event of nuclear conflict (thankfully, it was never used); its existence was a state secret until the break up of Yugoslavia in the 1990s.

    Construction started in 1953 and it was finished in 1977 at a cost of 4.6 billion USD. It has an underground horseshoe shaped structure and entrance is via a row of three normal looking houses in an isolated setting. It now functions to protect cultural heritage and has many art installations.
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  • Sarajevo 4; Besieged New Town (1992-5)

    24 september 2022, Bosnien och Hercegovina ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We take an optional trip with Insider Tours to visit the Tunnel Museum in Butmir. For much of the 1990s conflict, Sarajevo was surrounded by hostile Serb forces and Butmir was the last Bosniak part of the city linked to the outside world. However, the airport runway lies between Butmir and Dobrinja inSarajevo.... A hand-dug 800m tunnel beneath it was the solution, and this kept Sarajevo supplied with arms and food during the three year siege (it is known as both Tunnel D-B and the Tunnel of Hope). Most of the tunnel has now collapsed, but a 20m section still remains.

    Later on, I visit the The Museum of Crimes against Humanity and Genocide in the Old Town. Many personal statements and quite moving.
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  • Sarajevo 1; Bascarsija (Turkish Quarter)

    23 september 2022, Bosnien och Hercegovina ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH) and is located on the Sarajevo valley, by the Miljscka River and surrounded by the Dinaric Alps.

    A group of villages was founded as a city in the 15th century by the Turks of the Ottoman Empire and developed further by Gazi Huzrev Bey with the building of mosques and bazaars. Sarajevo was destroyed in 1697 by Austrians, rebuilt in the form of a Citadel and became part of the Austro-Hungarian empire in 1878. Sarajevo is known as the Jerusalem of Europe as it has mosques, Catholic churches, Eastern Orthodox churches and synagogues in the same area.

    This post focuses on Bascarsija, the bustling old Turkish Quarter in the centre of town (see captions).
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  • Bosnia and Herzegovina; Visegrad

    23 september 2022, Bosnien och Hercegovina ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Visegrad is a town located at the confluence of the Drina and Rzav rivers; its main attraction is the 10 arch Ottoman era Mehmed Pasa Sokolovic Bridge, which was popularised by the Nobel prize winning Ivo Andric in his novel "The Bridge on the Drina".

    After seeing this, we walk back to town to explore Andricgrad, a stone walked mini "old-town" built as a cultural/historical museum built by Emir Kusterica (him again) as a dedication to Ivo Andric and opened on 28 June 2014. It was very interesting to walk around.
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  • Mokra Gora and Mecavnik (Kustendorf)

    22 september 2022, Serbien ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    We travel to Mokra Gora ("wet mountain"), a beautiful area between the slopes of three mountains (Zlatibor, Sargan and Tara).

    Here we ride on the Sargan Eight narrow gauge railway; this was built after WWI to link Mokra Gora and Sargan, enabling a railway link between Belgrade, Sarajevo and Dubrovnik - the problem was the 300m rise in height between the towns which are only 3.5km apart. This was solved via a 15km "figure of eight" railway line running through 22 tunnels! It stopped running in 1974, but was revived for tourism purposes in 1999. A wonderful experience, 45m each way with stops between.

    Next we travel to Mecavnik, a traditional Serbian village created by the Serbian film director Emir Kusterica for his film "Life is a Miracle". The streets are named after film directors and it is interesting to see. This village, more popularly known as Kustendorf, after the director's name, is now a popular tourist resort.
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  • Serbia; to Sirogojno

    21 september 2022, Serbien ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    We cross the border into Serbia and head towards the Mt Zlatibor Massif and the 13th century Mileseva Monastery, near to Prijepdie. This is one of Serbia's most important spiritual centres and is famous for its "White Angel" fresco painting depicting an angel visiting thr the grave of Christ.

    We then drive to the mountain village of Sirogojno, famous for its "Old Village" open air museum, a collection of 19th century buildings assembled from around the area (reminiscent of the Weald and Downland open air museum in the UK). The main exhibits are two Zlatibor house-yards, complete with residential and commercial buildings. We stay in an authentic guest cottage here tonight and enjoy a hearty meal with beers in the evening.

    After breakfast we walk into the village past the Church of Saints Peter and Paul and visit the Knitting Museum. In 1962, Dobrila Smiljanic recognised that the quality and motifs used on local knitwear could be of interest to the fashion industry; it was, and Sirogojno knitwear is still available to, albeit at a price. Her initiative with local cultural heritage led to the eventual establishment of the Sirogojno Open Air Museum.
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  • To Zjabljak and Durmitor NP

    20 september 2022, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    We leave Virpazar and drive via the Moraca Gorge to the 13th century Orthodox monastery at Moraca (dedicated to the Assumptionof Mary); originally Serbian, it has been rebuilt . There is also a minor Chapel dedicated to St Nicholas.

    We then drive to the impressive concrete arch Djurdjevica Bridge spanning the gorge over the Tara River; this is the deepest gorge in Europe at 1300 metres deep and the second deepest gorge in the world (after the Grand Canyon). Ziplining is also very popular here now.

    We then head towards Zabljak, a town lying amongst the towering peaks, and close to the Durmitor National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Here we walk round the Black Lake (both the Big Lake and the Small Lake, separated by a narrow strait that dries up in the Summer); it was 6.5 km, and quite challenging at times but well worth the effort.

    Another lovely meal followed later.
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  • To Virpazar and Lake Skadar NP

    19 september 2022, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We leave Budva and stop at Sveti Stefan; this tiny island is connected to the shore by a narrow isthmus and was once a luxurious tourist resort - it is now closed.

    We drive to the small town of Virpazar, the gateway to the Lake Skadar National Park. We have a quick walk round and see the town monument before walking up to Besac Fortress - this has now been converted to a wine museum and restaurant. There are great views of the lake from here and we come down again in a golf cart!

    Lake Skadar is the largest lake in the Balkans; it is 44 km long and some of it is in Albania. We explore it on a boat trip; it is extremely pretty, with meadows of lilies, views of monasteries, birds etc.

    Later that evening, we enjoy an excellent dinner at Hotel Pelikan.
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  • Budva

    19 september 2022, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    This beautiful town has grown to become the focal point of the Montenegran Riviera, a 35 km strip of the Adriatic coast, but the Old Town and the beaches still retain their charm.

    We explore the Old Town, a mini Dubrovnik with marbled streets and Venetian walls, which has been rebuilt after two earthquakes in 1979. We visit the churches and the Citadel before strolling off to the beach and a paddle.Läs mer

  • Kotor Bay and Perast

    18 september 2022, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We're on a boat trip from Kotor around part of the beautiful Bay of Kotor; surrounded by steep mountains, it is reminiscent of a fjord (although it isn't).

    We soon arrive at two, small picturesque islets; the natural St George's Island and the man-made Our Lady of the Rock Island (15th century). The former houses a Benedictine Monastery and the latter a Church.

    We cross over to Prevast for a quick explore; after visiting St Nicholas Church, we have a walk around this beautiful, small town.
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  • Kotor City Walls and Fortress

    18 september 2022, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We access the walls from the Sea Gate after passing the Kampala Tower on the way. Walking up towards the open air theatre area there are good views if the town before entering town close to the North Gate and accessing the official walking route.

    It is a steep path, but after 650 steps we soon reach the Church of Our Lady of Remedy perched on the slope of St John Mountain. There are great views from here and as we climb up to the fortress itself. An excellent morning.
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  • Montenegro; Kotor Old Town

    17 september 2022, Montenegro ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    Kotor is an old port lying beneath the slope of Mount Lovcen; it is surrounded by fortifications built onto the slope that date from the Venetian period. It is now a World Heritage Site and getting popular with large cruise ships that stop off for the night.

    We explore the triangular shaped Old Town (Stari Grad) at the Sea Gate (aka Wesr Gate) which was the original entrance from the port. We head to the Gurdic Gate (aka South Gate) and walk through the beautiful old town, seeing St Tryphon Cathedral and reaching the more cental St Luke's Church (which is both Orthodox and Catholic) and the Church of St Nicholas. After more lovely old streets, we reach the Church of St Mary and the River Gate (aka North Gate) on the other side of the Old Town.
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  • Melbourn and Meldreth Circular

    13 september 2022, England ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We start this walk at the Dunsbridge Turnpike, just off the A10, and outside the Green Man pub; the turnpike was a toll gate along the old Cambridge to Royston road and was in use 1793 - 1872.  We walk south along the River Shep and then turn off along the edge of the Kingsway Golf Centre before heading down the Cambridge Road to Melbourn.

    Melbourn is a large village in the far south-west of Cambridgeshire and on the edge of the River Mel.  All Saints Church is in the centre; only a couple of pubs remain in Melbourn now from its heyday of 11 inns in 1865.  We walk past Sheene Mill, a former 16th century mill house on the river and now an upmarket restaurant and wedding venue (we have been to friends' weddings there).  Our route takes us along the bank of the River Mel, past the edge of Melbourne Village College playing fields and then under the A10 and over (or under) the railway line that links Cambridge to Royston and then Kings Cross in London.

    The course of the River Mel is through the small Melwood Nature Reserve on the outskirts of Meldreth; this is a much smaller village than Melbourn.  We pass the gardens of the British Queen pub and carry on past an old mill (now part of a much larger house). A diversion into the village to Fenny Lane takes us to see the Prime Meridian marker here; this is where longitude is defined as 0° and the village happens to lie directly on this (it was unveiled on 4 December 1999 to celebrate the millennium). We double back and pass the Holy Trinity Church and join the road to Shepreth.

    We cut through Shepreth L-Moor (see earlier post) and then follow the path to Frog End down to the A10 and cross over back to the Dunsbridge Turnpike. 
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  • Snape circular walk to Snape Maltings

    4 juli 2022, England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We start at Snape, a small village on the River Alde, and follow a route along the top of Snape Marshes (a combination of marsh, reedbed and wet woodland with lots of freshwater dykes) to reach the Sailor's Path (a beautiful route walked by sailors for hundreds of years between Snape Maltings and Aldeburgh).  We then cut down through Snape Warren Nature Reserve (an area of heathland, grassland and scrub) to reach the River Alde and walk up to Snape Bridge; there are excellent views all the way as we reach the bridge and cross over to vist Snape Maltings.

    Snape was originally a busy port; the site was purchased by the Victorian entrepeneur Newson Garrett who converted it to a maltings and used the River Alde to transport barley across Britain and into Europe on Thames barges - in 1854 he began malting at Snape, and was soon shipping malt, rather than barley, to breweries.  Malting ceased in 1965, however, and the site was purchased by a local farmer who leased the largest Malthouse to Benjamin Britten, who had the vision to see the building and the beautiful setting as a possible site for the rapidly growing Aldeburgh Music Festival.  From 1971 - 2014, the other buildings were converted to shops, galleries and accommodation and new buildings were developed to create a centre for music.  The complete site is now part of a music, arts and heritage charity - Britten Pears Arts. 

    We have a good look round Snape Maltings - it is well worth a visit
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  • Aldeburgh

    3 juli 2022, England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Aldeburgh is a coastal town located to the north of the River Alde and was once a leading port with a flourishing shipbuilding industry; this declined as the river silted up and in the 1800s it became a fashionable tourist spot.

    We walk via the outskirts of town and along the edge of Aldeburgh Marshes to reach the River Alde and head to the coast and what was once Slaughden; this was originally a fishing village but was lost to erosion by the sea - the only surviving building is the unique quatrefoil Martello Tower.  From here it is along the promenade to pass some of the town's landmarks; the Fort Greem Mill (a four-storey windmill built in 1824 and converted into a dwelling in 1902), the Grade II listed Aldeburgh Beach Lookout (1830) and the Lifeboat Station.  We then go into town to walk along the High Street to see some of the sights there before returning to the promenade. Later on, we returned to enjoy Adnams beer at the White Hart Inn and fish and chips (the two family-run fish and chip shops here have been rated among the country's best) -

    We see the Moot Hall (a Grade I listed timber-framed building used for council meetings for over 400 years, that now also houses the local museum) and then walk up the Scallop, just beyond the town centre.  This sculpture (2003) is dedicated to Benjamin Britten, who would walk along the beach in the afternoons.

    Aldeburgh is a lovely place.
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  • Thorpeness and the House in the Clouds

    2 juli 2022, England ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We are visiting the Thorpeness area for the weekend as a friend has rented the House in the Clouds for a family celebration and invited his Devil's Dyke Morris Men colleagues to dance there and celebrate with him.

    Originally a small fishing hamlet, in the 1900s the wealthy Ogilvie family created a "fantasy holiday haven" here by blocking the outlet of the River Hundred, alreadty silted up, to create the Meare - 60 acres of shallow water, ornamental gardens and small islands.

    To hide the eyesore of having a water tower in the village, the tank was clad in wood to make it look like a small house on top of a tower; the House in the Clouds. The windmill outside it used to grind corn at Aldringham, but was moved here in 1923 to pump water up to the tower.

    The Morris Men dance here and we are treated to a tour of the house, which was an incredible experience as it is extremely quirky inside. We also walk round the village and Meare before heading back to our B&B in Aldeburgh. A great day!
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  • Bury St Edmunds; across the town

    24 juni 2022, England ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    A short walk away from the Abbey Gardens and Cathedral area is the Green King Brewery; there has been a brewery on this Westgate Street site since 1799 and opposite the Brew Cafe is the Theatre Royal, a Grade I listed restored Regency theatre. 

    We walk down Crown Street past the front of St Mary's Church to reach Angel Hill, where the iconic Abbey Gate is sited.  On Angel Hill are the historic buildings of both The Athenaeum, originally built in the 18th century as Assembly Rooms, and the distinctive facade of The Angel Hotel, where Charles Dickens stayed in 1859 and again in 1861.  There is also a lighthouse-shaped street sign commonly known as the "Pillar of Salt" opposite Norman Tower; built in 1935, the sign is now a listed monument and thought to be the England's first internally illuminated street sign.

    We walk up Abbeygate Street to see the Corn Exchange, now a Wetherspoons pub; opposite it on The Traverse is the famous Nutshell pub, reputedly the smallest public house in Britain.  We walk up Guildhall Street to see The Guildhall (a grade 1 listed building which dates back to the 13th century) before doubling back to reach Bury St Edmunds town centre square, The Cornhill.  The Market Cross building here has four decorative sculpted panels representing music and drama; across the square diagonally is Moyse's Hall, built in around 1180 originally as a town house but now a museum. 

    We walk down St John's Street to reach the quirky Smoking Monkey antiques shop and the St John the Evangelist Church, before turning off to reach The Old Cannon Brewery, an independent micro-brewery selling traditional English real ale since 1845. 
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  • Bury St Edmunds; Abbey Gardens

    24 juni 2022, England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Bury St Edmunds, commonly referred to locally as Bury, is a picturesque market town steeped in history; the Saxons founded a monastery here about 633, which in 903 became the burial place of King Edmund the Martyr and the town grew around Bury St Edmunds Abbey, a site of pilgrimage.

    Our walking guide route starts at Abbot's Bridge, which dates back to the 12th century. We then enter the Abbey Gardens, a six hectare park on the site of the former Benedictine Abbey, and walk via the Sensory Gardens towards the Abbey Gate; in 1327 the Abbey was stormed by the townspeople, who destroyed the original Abbey Gate and much of the monastery. We then walk to the ruined buildings of the original monastery; on one of the pillars is a plaque commemorating the spot where, in 1214, the barons of England swore to compel King John to sign the document now known as the Magna Carta.  We double back to the Rose Garden and emerge into Cathedral Close to visit St Edmundsbury Cathedral itself; it only became a cathedral in 1914 and has been enlarged from the original parish church over the decades.

    Outside it is a statue of St Edmund and a small row of residential homes built into the original abbey walls; we then see the Norman Tower which historically has served as the bell tower to the Cathedral.  We pass the Martyr's Memorial to reach the Charnel House, which was built in the 13th century in order to store bones previously buried in the Great Churchyard.  St Mary's church lies to its right; completed in 1427, this has the longest nave of any parish church in England.  We leave the Abbey Gardens and nearby you can see large pieces of the old abbey embedded within a wall which skirts a lane; when Henry VIII dissolved the Bury St Edmund's Abbey in 1539, the towns people moved quickly to re-use the stone flints and mortar - evidence of their recycling can still be seen throughout the town.
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  • Newmarket

    20 juni 2022, England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Newmarket is best known as the home of English horse racing and is located in a corner of Suffolk that nudges into Cambridgeshire. Originally a small village, Newmarket's transformation in fortunes is due its association with racing and royalty which extends back into the 17th century. The crucial event was the construction of Newmarket Palace by King James and a lodge for what would be the future King Charles I; they both loved the area and made frequent visits - as did grandson / son King Charles II who became a devotee of horse racing. Although the original palace and lodge are gone, a small portion of Charles II's residence still exists in the two lower storeys of the nineteenth century house known as Palace House Mansion (the bulk was swept away in the Regency period).

    Newmarket is an easy 15 mile drive from Duxford and as you enter the town there is a statue on the roundabout outside the National Stud (a thoroughbred horse breeding farm) that gives an indication of what Newmarket is all about. The National Horse Racing Museum in the town centre is an interesting visit and well worth a look around. Back in town, we pass the Jockey Club Rooms - where there is a magnificent statue of the horse "Hyperion" in the courtyard - and see the beautiful clock tower at the top of Newmarket High Street that commemorates Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee in 1887. We also pass Nell Gwynn's cottage where there is an image of King Charles II on the wall; Nell was a "celebrity" actress of the Restoration Period and a long-time mistress of the king.

    Newmarket is all about horse racing though, and a few years ago I took my father, a racing fan, to Newmarket Races to celebrate his 80th birthday year. A couple of pictures of our "day at the races" are included for completeness (and in his memory).
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