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Journey through the Balkans
  • Andrew's Travels
  • Andrew's Travels

Journey through the Balkans

A photojournal of travelling through Montenegro, the bottom of Serbia, Bosnia Herzegovina, and then Dubrovnik in Croatia with Explore Travel. Læs mere
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  • Start på rejsen
    17. september 2022
    Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    Sea Gate / Clock Tower on the other side
    Gurdic Gate / Street viewSt Tryphon CathedralWall sign / Old PalaceInside some of the shopsSt Luke's ChurchChurch of St NicholasChurch of St MaryStreet viewsRiver Gate

    Montenegro; Kotor Old Town

    17. september 2022, Montenegro ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    Kotor is an old port lying beneath the slope of Mount Lovcen; it is surrounded by fortifications built onto the slope that date from the Venetian period. It is now a World Heritage Site and getting popular with large cruise ships that stop off for the night.

    We explore the triangular shaped Old Town (Stari Grad) at the Sea Gate (aka Wesr Gate) which was the original entrance from the port. We head to the Gurdic Gate (aka South Gate) and walk through the beautiful old town, seeing St Tryphon Cathedral and reaching the more cental St Luke's Church (which is both Orthodox and Catholic) and the Church of St Nicholas. After more lovely old streets, we reach the Church of St Mary and the River Gate (aka North Gate) on the other side of the Old Town.    Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    Kampala Tower / View up from North Gate
    View from walls of Church of St NicholasChurch of Our Lady of RemedyViews down from above the Church of Our Lady of RemedyThe secret areaViews down the other side from the topView down to the Kontarini TowerThe fortress; Soranco Position / Castel St JohnClassic view of Kotor Old TownNight views; Kontarini Tower / The Walls

    Kotor City Walls and Fortress

    18. september 2022, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We access the walls from the Sea Gate after passing the Kampala Tower on the way. Walking up towards the open air theatre area there are good views if the town before entering town close to the North Gate and accessing the official walking route.

    It is a steep path, but after 650 steps we soon reach the Church of Our Lady of Remedy perched on the slope of St John Mountain. There are great views from here and as we climb up to the fortress itself. An excellent morning.    Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    Views across the Bay
    Church of Our Lady of the RockInside the churchChurch ExhibitsSt George's Island / Our Lady of the Rock IslandPrevast; St Nicholas' ChurchViews from the top of the TowerViews from the top of the TowerAlong the PromenadeClassic view of Prevast

    Kotor Bay and Perast

    18. september 2022, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We're on a boat trip from Kotor around part of the beautiful Bay of Kotor; surrounded by steep mountains, it is reminiscent of a fjord (although it isn't).

    We soon arrive at two, small picturesque islets; the natural St George's Island and the man-made Our Lady of the Rock Island (15th century). The former houses a Benedictine Monastery and the latter a Church.

    We cross over to Prevast for a quick explore; after visiting St Nicholas Church, we have a walk around this beautiful, small town.    Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    Old Town; Main Tower / Entrance
    Church of St JohnChurch of the Holy TrinityChurches of St John and the Holy Trinity/ Church of Santa Maria della PuntaBudva CitadelViews on the Citadel WallsStreet viewsView ofthe Old Town from the walk to the beachBudva Dancer SculptureView of Old Town / On the beach

    Budva

    19. september 2022, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    This beautiful town has grown to become the focal point of the Montenegran Riviera, a 35 km strip of the Adriatic coast, but the Old Town and the beaches still retain their charm.

    We explore the Old Town, a mini Dubrovnik with marbled streets and Venetian walls, which has been rebuilt after two earthquakes in 1979. We visit the churches and the Citadel before strolling off to the beach and a paddle.Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    Sveti Stefan
    Virpazar; Monument / Besac FortressView of Lake Skadar / View into townBoats moored by the river / Water Lilies on the LakeOn Lake SkadarOn Lake SkadarViews from the boatDinner; first course / second course!Hotel Pelikan dining area

    To Virpazar and Lake Skadar NP

    19. september 2022, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We leave Budva and stop at Sveti Stefan; this tiny island is connected to the shore by a narrow isthmus and was once a luxurious tourist resort - it is now closed.

    We drive to the small town of Virpazar, the gateway to the Lake Skadar National Park. We have a quick walk round and see the town monument before walking up to Besac Fortress - this has now been converted to a wine museum and restaurant. There are great views of the lake from here and we come down again in a golf cart!

    Lake Skadar is the largest lake in the Balkans; it is 44 km long and some of it is in Albania. We explore it on a boat trip; it is extremely pretty, with meadows of lilies, views of monasteries, birds etc.

    Later that evening, we enjoy an excellent dinner at Hotel Pelikan.    Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    Moraca Monastery
    Moraca MonasteryChapel of St NicholasDjurdjevica Bridge / ViewTara Gorge, both sidesDurmitor National ParkViews of the Black LakeTito Cave / The hard bitViews of the Black LakeA bunch of walkers / Dinner

    To Zjabljak and Durmitor NP

    20. september 2022, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    We leave Virpazar and drive via the Moraca Gorge to the 13th century Orthodox monastery at Moraca (dedicated to the Assumptionof Mary); originally Serbian, it has been rebuilt . There is also a minor Chapel dedicated to St Nicholas.

    We then drive to the impressive concrete arch Djurdjevica Bridge spanning the gorge over the Tara River; this is the deepest gorge in Europe at 1300 metres deep and the second deepest gorge in the world (after the Grand Canyon). Ziplining is also very popular here now.

    We then head towards Zabljak, a town lying amongst the towering peaks, and close to the Durmitor National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Here we walk round the Black Lake (both the Big Lake and the Small Lake, separated by a narrow strait that dries up in the Summer); it was 6.5 km, and quite challenging at times but well worth the effort.

    Another lovely meal followed later.    Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    Mileseva Monastery
    Inside / "White Angel" fresco paintingSirogojno Village - Main house / chicken coop, corn-crib, barnMain house; interiorCooper's workshop / corn crib with porch for distilling rakija (local brandy)Bread oven / bee hives / storage pitTobacco store / bakery / corn crib with porch and barnsOur accommodation/ Dinner / BreakfastChurch of Saints Peter and PaulSirogojno Knitting Museum

    Serbia; to Sirogojno

    21. september 2022, Serbien ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    We cross the border into Serbia and head towards the Mt Zlatibor Massif and the 13th century Mileseva Monastery, near to Prijepdie. This is one of Serbia's most important spiritual centres and is famous for its "White Angel" fresco painting depicting an angel visiting thr the grave of Christ.

    We then drive to the mountain village of Sirogojno, famous for its "Old Village" open air museum, a collection of 19th century buildings assembled from around the area (reminiscent of the Weald and Downland open air museum in the UK). The main exhibits are two Zlatibor house-yards, complete with residential and commercial buildings. We stay in an authentic guest cottage here tonight and enjoy a hearty meal with beers in the evening.

    After breakfast we walk into the village past the Church of Saints Peter and Paul and visit the Knitting Museum. In 1962, Dobrila Smiljanic recognised that the quality and motifs used on local knitwear could be of interest to the fashion industry; it was, and Sirogojno knitwear is still available to, albeit at a price. Her initiative with local cultural heritage led to the eventual establishment of the Sirogojno Open Air Museum.    Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    Mokra Gora Station; train route / tunnel walkway
    Mokra Gora StationMokra Gora Station; entrance to walkway / carriage / engineJatape Station/ View downView of tunnels on figure of eight / Tunnel entranceEn route / Andrew and HelenSargan StationExplore group in train / Restaurant ceilingMecavnik (Kustendorf); traditional Serbian village recreationMecavnik; Church / Street views

    Mokra Gora and Mecavnik (Kustendorf)

    22. september 2022, Serbien ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    We travel to Mokra Gora ("wet mountain"), a beautiful area between the slopes of three mountains (Zlatibor, Sargan and Tara).

    Here we ride on the Sargan Eight narrow gauge railway; this was built after WWI to link Mokra Gora and Sargan, enabling a railway link between Belgrade, Sarajevo and Dubrovnik - the problem was the 300m rise in height between the towns which are only 3.5km apart. This was solved via a 15km "figure of eight" railway line running through 22 tunnels! It stopped running in 1974, but was revived for tourism purposes in 1999. A wonderful experience, 45m each way with stops between.

    Next we travel to Mecavnik, a traditional Serbian village created by the Serbian film director Emir Kusterica for his film "Life is a Miracle". The streets are named after film directors and it is interesting to see. This village, more popularly known as Kustendorf, after the director's name, is now a popular tourist resort.    Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    Mehmet Pasa Sokolovic Bridge
    Mehmet Pasa Sokolovic Bridge / View from bridgeMehmet Pasa Sokolovic Statue / Murals nearbyStatue / MosqueMain entrance to AndricgradStatue at entrance / mural / main squareSt Lazar Church, Ivo Andric and Bell TowerSt Lazar ChurchBell Tower / Nicola Tesla Statue

    Bosnia and Herzegovina; Visegrad

    23. september 2022, Bosnien-Hercegovina ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Visegrad is a town located at the confluence of the Drina and Rzav rivers; its main attraction is the 10 arch Ottoman era Mehmed Pasa Sokolovic Bridge, which was popularised by the Nobel prize winning Ivo Andric in his novel "The Bridge on the Drina".

    After seeing this, we walk back to town to explore Andricgrad, a stone walked mini "old-town" built as a cultural/historical museum built by Emir Kusterica (him again) as a dedication to Ivo Andric and opened on 28 June 2014. It was very interesting to walk around.    Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    Entering Bascarsija
    Gazi Huzrev Bey MuseumGazi Huzrev Bey MosqueSarajevo Clock Tower; from mosque / from streetGazi Huzrev Bey; Bezistan (trade) / Taslihan (caravanserei)Sebilj drinking fountain / shop window displaysCoppersmith StreetMorica Han ( roadside inn)Lunch / Dinner / Bosnian Coffee

    Sarajevo 1; Bascarsija (Turkish Quarter)

    23. september 2022, Bosnien-Hercegovina ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH) and is located on the Sarajevo valley, by the Miljscka River and surrounded by the Dinaric Alps.

    A group of villages was founded as a city in the 15th century by the Turks of the Ottoman Empire and developed further by Gazi Huzrev Bey with the building of mosques and bazaars. Sarajevo was destroyed in 1697 by Austrians, rebuilt in the form of a Citadel and became part of the Austro-Hungarian empire in 1878. Sarajevo is known as the Jerusalem of Europe as it has mosques, Catholic churches, Eastern Orthodox churches and synagogues in the same area.

    This post focuses on Bascarsija, the bustling old Turkish Quarter in the centre of town (see captions).    Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    The Holiday Inn along Sniper Alley / Sniper scarred building / Preferred sniper locations
    Tunnel Museum, Butmir; Map showing location of airport runway / Airport runway todayThe House where the tunnel starts / Original entrance to tunnel via the garageInside the house (now a museum); relics / railway cartInside the Tunnel of HopeVarious itemsClothing / Improvised ovenOld Town; Monuments to children lost during the 1992-5 siegeOld Town; The Museum of Crimes against Humanity and GenocideImprovised power for radio / Flying bomb

    Sarajevo 4; Besieged New Town (1992-5)

    24. september 2022, Bosnien-Hercegovina ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We take an optional trip with Insider Tours to visit the Tunnel Museum in Butmir. For much of the 1990s conflict, Sarajevo was surrounded by hostile Serb forces and Butmir was the last Bosniak part of the city linked to the outside world. However, the airport runway lies between Butmir and Dobrinja inSarajevo.... A hand-dug 800m tunnel beneath it was the solution, and this kept Sarajevo supplied with arms and food during the three year siege (it is known as both Tunnel D-B and the Tunnel of Hope). Most of the tunnel has now collapsed, but a 20m section still remains.

    Later on, I visit the The Museum of Crimes against Humanity and Genocide in the Old Town. Many personal statements and quite moving.    Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    Konjic,; The Old Stone Bridge
    Tito's Bunker; Entry via normal looking house / Plan of bunker (house is Z63, bottom right)Tunnel entrance to bunker / Typical corridorEnigma machine / Marshall Tito / ElectronicsEmergency exit / MachineryTito's desk / Waiting room / Admin OfficeSpy room / Telephones / Art installationAir conditioning room / Oil tanks

    Konjic and Tito's Bunker

    25. september 2022, Bosnien-Hercegovina ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We drive to Konjic; ARK D-O, aka Tito's Bunker, 10 minutes from here. This is a cold-war era Nuclear Bunker / Command Centre to protect President Tito and his inner circle of 350 in the event of nuclear conflict (thankfully, it was never used); its existence was a state secret until the break up of Yugoslavia in the 1990s.

    Construction started in 1953 and it was finished in 1977 at a cost of 4.6 billion USD. It has an underground horseshoe shaped structure and entrance is via a row of three normal looking houses in an isolated setting. It now functions to protect cultural heritage and has many art installations.    Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    Stari Most, The Old Bridge
    Koski Mehmed Pasha MosqueViews from the top of the minaretIn the Old TownThe Old Bridge / ChurchKatjaz House (original Turkish)Male reception room / Female reception roomDamaged buildings from the conflictStari Most from both sidesMostar by night

    Mostar

    25. september 2022, Bosnien-Hercegovina ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Mostar is the historic capital of Herzegovina (just as Sarajevo is for Bosnia). It is situated by the Neretva River and this is crossed in the Old Town by the famous Stari Most (Old Bridge). The Bridge dates from 1566, but was destroyed in the Bosnian War; it was reconstructed and had a grand re-opening in 2004 - it is now UNESCO protected.

    We vist an old 16th centuryTurkish House (Katjaz House) and the walk the cobbled streets of the Old Town, before returning to the Koski Nehmed Mosque; this has a beautiful interior and it possible to climb the steep steps of the minaret for magnificent views of the city.

    After dinner we walk around the beautiful Old Town again.    Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    Monastery building / Monastery wine cellar
    Vines in the foregroundThe Church within the MonasteryTrebinje Old Town; Classic view from over the river / In the Old TownThe two mosques in the Old TownTrebinje Old Town walls/ War Memorial / Trebinje Orthodox Church on a hillThe Church of Holy Transfiguration of GodInteresting statue in Park / Statue of Johan Ducic, a local heroAustro-Hungarian buildings outside the Old Town / Fountain / The plane treesArslanagic-Perovica Bridge

    Tvrdos Monastery and Trebinje

    26. september 2022, Bosnien-Hercegovina ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    We drive south towards the Adriatic and visit the 15th century Serbian Orthodox Tvrdos Monastery, situated on cliffs above Trebinje. The Monastery was destroyed by an earthquake in the 17th century and rebuilt in 1920; the original 4th century roman church foundations are still visible inside the church. Tvrdos Monastery is renowned for its wine production and, yes, we sampled the white and the red.

    Trebinje is the southernmost city in BiH; it is situated on the River Trebisnjica and is only 28km from Dubrovnik. The small, walled Old Town is 18th century Ottoman and this is surrounded by Austro-Hungarian (1878-1918) buildings; there are also 10 forts on the hills surrounding the city.

    We have a tour of the Old Quarter and see the two mosques; the taller one cost the life of its builder as it was larger than that of the more dominant sultan. Outside the Old Quarter we see sites of the Austro-Hungarian period.

    We then walk along the river to see the Arslanagic-Perovia Bridge; this was moved downstream due to the building of a dam. Because of this fact, this historic Bridge is not able to obtain UNESCO status.    Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    View of Dubrovnik Old Town / St John Fortress / Chapels of Annunciation and St Luke
    Just before the Gate of Ploce / Gate of Ploce (East entrance)Entering Old Town / Statue of St BlaiseEntrance to Dominican Monastery / Stairs with modesty blocks / View of Bell Tower from harbour areaSt Ignatius ChurchViews down into the Old TownView down and up the Spanish StepsFort Minceta / Big Onofrio's FountainViews across and down Main Street (Stradun) to the Bell TowerGate of Pile, the main entance (West entrance) / View from outside the gate to Fort Bokar

    Croatia - Dubrovnik 1; The Old Town

    27. september 2022, Kroatien ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Dubrovnik is a city on the Adriatic Sea in the southeast of Croatia; it is a UNESCO site in recognition of its medieval architecture and fortified old town. The Old Town is surrounded by a series of defensive stone walls and is one of the Mediterranean's top tourist destinations.

    It is a fantastic place and we joined a guide for his tour of the Old Town (mainly following the blue line on the free city tourist map, but with a few diversions), starting at the Gate of Ploce.  We see many of the Old Towns churches and main sites (see captions on pictures) as we criss-cross the southern part of the Old Town to the Stradun (main street) and reach the Gate of Pile.    Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    Exploring the north side of the Old Town
    Game of Thrones; Young woman dressed as a character / Old man next to statue of characterBack on the south side of the Old TownSerbian Orthodox Church and Museum of IconsGundulic SquareOutside the southern wallsPast the cafe to the rocksBack in the Old Town; Views down into itViews of harbour from St John Fortress; approaching it / after itThe Bell Tower

    Dubrovnik 2; More of The Old Town

    27. september 2022, Kroatien ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    From the Gate of Pile - without the guide - we walk round the north part of the Old Town and look into one of the many Games of Thrones shops in the town.  Back on the south part, we exit a small gate through the walls and descend down to a cafe and onto the rocks on the sea. Then it is back to the harbour area for a visit to the Porporela, a breakwater in the old city port; this is an old town landmark and 19th century pier which is popular for short walks and sea views.

    There is a lot more to do in Dubrovnik - the museums, a walk around the walls, a visit to Lokrum Island - but these will have to wait for the next visit here.....    Læs mere

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  • Andrew's TravelsJourney through the BalkansRejsende
    View of Cavtat from our balcony at Villa Fenix
    St Nicholas ChurchStatue of Baltazar Bogisic, a 19th century scientist / View of Monastery and MausoleumMonastery of our Lady of the Snow / Racic family MausoleumRacic family MausoleumViews of Cavtat Harbour

    Cavtat

    27. september 2022, Kroatien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Cavtat is the most southerly Croatian resort of all, located around 20 km south of Dubrovnik and only 22 km from the border with Montenegro; it is a village by the sea in a small bay with a seafront promenade. 

    The final night of our Journey through the Balkans is spent here and we have the chance to explore this lovely place (see picture captions) before a farewell dinner with our fellow Explore travellers.    Læs mere

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    Slut på rejsen
    28. september 2022
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