Journey through the Balkans

A photojournal of travelling through Montenegro, the bottom of Serbia, Bosnia Herzegovina, and then Dubrovnik in Croatia with Explore Travel. Read more

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Trip start
September 17, 2022
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Day 1
Saturday, September 17, 2022 at 2:00 PM
🌧 22 °C
Altitude: 5 m
Montenegro Škurda 42.425324, 18.76949442°25’31” N 18°46’10” E
Montenegro; Kotor Old Town
September 17, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ 🌧 22 °C
Kotor is an old port lying beneath the slope of Mount Lovcen; it is surrounded by fortifications built onto the slope that date from the Venetian period. It is now a World Heritage Site and getting popular with large cruise ships that stop off for the night.

We explore the triangular shaped Old Town (Stari Grad) at the Sea Gate (aka Wesr Gate) which was the original entrance from the port. We head to the Gurdic Gate (aka South Gate) and walk through the beautiful old town, seeing St Tryphon Cathedral and reaching the more cental St Luke's Church (which is both Orthodox and Catholic) and the Church of St Nicholas. After more lovely old streets, we reach the Church of St Mary and the River Gate (aka North Gate) on the other side of the Old Town.Read more
Wolfgang und HeidiWe loved Kotor, enjoy this trip!
9/20/22Reply
Wolfgang und HeidiNice place. We enjoyed it very much. Best in the evenings when the cruisers have gone
9/21/22Reply
TravelerYes, we enjoyed it very much as well.
9/22/22Reply
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Day 2
Sunday, September 18, 2022 at 9:00 AM
☀️ 15 °C
Altitude: 236 m
Montenegro Špiljari 42.42215, 18.77507942°25’20” N 18°46’30” E
Kotor City Walls and Fortress
September 18, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
We access the walls from the Sea Gate after passing the Kampala Tower on the way. Walking up towards the open air theatre area there are good views if the town before entering town close to the North Gate and accessing the official walking route.

It is a steep path, but after 650 steps we soon reach the Church of Our Lady of Remedy perched on the slope of St John Mountain. There are great views from here and as we climb up to the fortress itself. An excellent morning.Read more
Wolfgang und Heidihave you been to the very top?
9/21/22Reply
TravelerHi, we did go to the top by the flag. Great place.
9/22/22Reply
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Day 2
Sunday, September 18, 2022 at 3:00 PM
☀️ 23 °C
Altitude: 8 m
Montenegro Rt Peševo 42.486305, 18.69862242°29’11” N 18°41’55” E
Kotor Bay and Perast
September 18, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
We're on a boat trip from Kotor around part of the beautiful Bay of Kotor; surrounded by steep mountains, it is reminiscent of a fjord (although it isn't).

We soon arrive at two, small picturesque islets; the natural St George's Island and the man-made Our Lady of the Rock Island (15th century). The former houses a Benedictine Monastery and the latter a Church.

We cross over to Prevast for a quick explore; after visiting St Nicholas Church, we have a walk around this beautiful, small town.Read more
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Day 3
Monday, September 19, 2022 at 10:00 AM
☀️ 18 °C
Altitude: 4 m
Montenegro Uvala Pod Fratre 42.277894, 18.83770642°16’40” N 18°50’16” E
Budva
September 19, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
This beautiful town has grown to become the focal point of the Montenegran Riviera, a 35 km strip of the Adriatic coast, but the Old Town and the beaches still retain their charm.

We explore the Old Town, a mini Dubrovnik with marbled streets and Venetian walls, which has been rebuilt after two earthquakes in 1979. We visit the churches and the Citadel before strolling off to the beach and a paddle.Read more
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Day 3
Monday, September 19, 2022 at 3:00 PM
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 13 m
Montenegro Orahovštica 42.246607, 19.09048342°14’48” N 19°5’26” E
To Virpazar and Lake Skadar NP
September 19, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
We leave Budva and stop at Sveti Stefan; this tiny island is connected to the shore by a narrow isthmus and was once a luxurious tourist resort - it is now closed.

We drive to the small town of Virpazar, the gateway to the Lake Skadar National Park. We have a quick walk round and see the town monument before walking up to Besac Fortress - this has now been converted to a wine museum and restaurant. There are great views of the lake from here and we come down again in a golf cart!

Lake Skadar is the largest lake in the Balkans; it is 44 km long and some of it is in Albania. We explore it on a boat trip; it is extremely pretty, with meadows of lilies, views of monasteries, birds etc.

Later that evening, we enjoy an excellent dinner at Hotel Pelikan.Read more
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Day 4
Tuesday, September 20, 2022 at 9:00 AM
☀️ 2 °C
Altitude: 1,417 m
Montenegro Crno Jezero 43.147755, 19.09669243°8’52” N 19°5’48” E
To Zjabljak and Durmitor NP
September 20, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C
We leave Virpazar and drive via the Moraca Gorge to the 13th century Orthodox monastery at Moraca (dedicated to the Assumptionof Mary); originally Serbian, it has been rebuilt . There is also a minor Chapel dedicated to St Nicholas.

We then drive to the impressive concrete arch Djurdjevica Bridge spanning the gorge over the Tara River; this is the deepest gorge in Europe at 1300 metres deep and the second deepest gorge in the world (after the Grand Canyon). Ziplining is also very popular here now.

We then head towards Zabljak, a town lying amongst the towering peaks, and close to the Durmitor National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Here we walk round the Black Lake (both the Big Lake and the Small Lake, separated by a narrow strait that dries up in the Summer); it was 6.5 km, and quite challenging at times but well worth the effort.

Another lovely meal followed later.Read more
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Day 5
Wednesday, September 21, 2022 at 9:00 AM
⛅ 6 °C
Altitude: 862 m
Serbia Sirogojno 43.688851, 19.88009343°41’20” N 19°52’48” E
Serbia; to Sirogojno
September 21, 2022 in Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C
We cross the border into Serbia and head towards the Mt Zlatibor Massif and the 13th century Mileseva Monastery, near to Prijepdie. This is one of Serbia's most important spiritual centres and is famous for its "White Angel" fresco painting depicting an angel visiting thr the grave of Christ.

We then drive to the mountain village of Sirogojno, famous for its "Old Village" open air museum, a collection of 19th century buildings assembled from around the area (reminiscent of the Weald and Downland open air museum in the UK). The main exhibits are two Zlatibor house-yards, complete with residential and commercial buildings. We stay in an authentic guest cottage here tonight and enjoy a hearty meal with beers in the evening.

After breakfast we walk into the village past the Church of Saints Peter and Paul and visit the Knitting Museum. In 1962, Dobrila Smiljanic recognised that the quality and motifs used on local knitwear could be of interest to the fashion industry; it was, and Sirogojno knitwear is still available to, albeit at a price. Her initiative with local cultural heritage led to the eventual establishment of the Sirogojno Open Air Museum.Read more
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Day 6
Thursday, September 22, 2022 at 2:00 PM
⛅ 12 °C
Altitude: 563 m
Serbia Presedo 43.793983, 19.51211743°47’38” N 19°30’44” E
Mokra Gora and Mecavnik (Kustendorf)
September 22, 2022 in Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
We travel to Mokra Gora ("wet mountain"), a beautiful area between the slopes of three mountains (Zlatibor, Sargan and Tara).

Here we ride on the Sargan Eight narrow gauge railway; this was built after WWI to link Mokra Gora and Sargan, enabling a railway link between Belgrade, Sarajevo and Dubrovnik - the problem was the 300m rise in height between the towns which are only 3.5km apart. This was solved via a 15km "figure of eight" railway line running through 22 tunnels! It stopped running in 1974, but was revived for tourism purposes in 1999. A wonderful experience, 45m each way with stops between.

Next we travel to Mecavnik, a traditional Serbian village created by the Serbian film director Emir Kusterica for his film "Life is a Miracle". The streets are named after film directors and it is interesting to see. This village, more popularly known as Kustendorf, after the director's name, is now a popular tourist resort.Read more
Wolfgang und Heidi„Kustendorf“ is probably an old German word. Meaning: „Village at the shore“
9/27/22Reply
TravelerThanks!
9/27/22Reply
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Day 7
Friday, September 23, 2022 at 10:00 AM
⛅ 11 °C
Altitude: 307 m
Bosnia and Herzegovina Jablanica 43.783513, 19.29234543°47’1” N 19°17’32” E
Bosnia and Herzegovina; Visegrad
September 23, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
Visegrad is a town located at the confluence of the Drina and Rzav rivers; its main attraction is the 10 arch Ottoman era Mehmed Pasa Sokolovic Bridge, which was popularised by the Nobel prize winning Ivo Andric in his novel "The Bridge on the Drina".

After seeing this, we walk back to town to explore Andricgrad, a stone walked mini "old-town" built as a cultural/historical museum built by Emir Kusterica (him again) as a dedication to Ivo Andric and opened on 28 June 2014. It was very interesting to walk around.Read more
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Day 7
Friday, September 23, 2022 at 2:00 PM
⛅ 13 °C
Altitude: 551 m
Bosnia and Herzegovina Begova Džamija 43.859282, 18.42907443°51’33” N 18°25’45” E
Sarajevo 1; Bascarsija (Turkish Quarter)
September 23, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH) and is located on the Sarajevo valley, by the Miljscka River and surrounded by the Dinaric Alps.

A group of villages was founded as a city in the 15th century by the Turks of the Ottoman Empire and developed further by Gazi Huzrev Bey with the building of mosques and bazaars. Sarajevo was destroyed in 1697 by Austrians, rebuilt in the form of a Citadel and became part of the Austro-Hungarian empire in 1878. Sarajevo is known as the Jerusalem of Europe as it has mosques, Catholic churches, Eastern Orthodox churches and synagogues in the same area.

This post focuses on Bascarsija, the bustling old Turkish Quarter in the centre of town (see captions).Read more
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Day 7
Friday, September 23, 2022 at 4:00 PM
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 556 m
Bosnia and Herzegovina Latin Bridge 43.857869, 18.42895143°51’28” N 18°25’44” E
Sarajevo 2; Old Town District
September 23, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
When the Austro-Hungarians took over Sarajevo, they built around the Turkish Quarter in a circular fashion; thus, within a few blocks of Bascarsija, there are examples of Cathedrals, Synagogues and traditional European architecture - as well as other mosques.

This post focuses on these (see captions).Read more
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Day 8
Saturday, September 24, 2022 at 9:30 AM
☀️ 9 °C
Altitude: 533 m
Bosnia and Herzegovina Ars Aevi 43.85533, 18.41349843°51’19” N 18°24’49” E
Sarajevo 3; Old Town and some New Town
September 24, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C
More Old Town buildings and a walk up to the Yellow Fortress; this is a cannon fortress thst served as one of the defenses against the Austro-Hungarian troops. We also visited an old 1984 Winter Olympics venue....

See captions for information.Read more
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Day 8
Saturday, September 24, 2022 at 10:30 AM
☀️ 8 °C
Altitude: 523 m
Bosnia and Herzegovina Tunnel D-B 43.820326, 18.33715443°49’13” N 18°20’14” E
Sarajevo 4; Besieged New Town (1992-5)
September 24, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C
We take an optional trip with Insider Tours to visit the Tunnel Museum in Butmir. For much of the 1990s conflict, Sarajevo was surrounded by hostile Serb forces and Butmir was the last Bosniak part of the city linked to the outside world. However, the airport runway lies between Butmir and Dobrinja inSarajevo.... A hand-dug 800m tunnel beneath it was the solution, and this kept Sarajevo supplied with arms and food during the three year siege (it is known as both Tunnel D-B and the Tunnel of Hope). Most of the tunnel has now collapsed, but a 20m section still remains.

Later on, I visit the The Museum of Crimes against Humanity and Genocide in the Old Town. Many personal statements and quite moving.Read more
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Day 9
Sunday, September 25, 2022 at 10:00 AM
☁️ 14 °C
Altitude: 263 m
Bosnia and Herzegovina Konjic 43.65123, 17.96221843°39’4” N 17°57’44” E
Konjic and Tito's Bunker
September 25, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
We drive to Konjic; ARK D-O, aka Tito's Bunker, 10 minutes from here. This is a cold-war era Nuclear Bunker / Command Centre to protect President Tito and his inner circle of 350 in the event of nuclear conflict (thankfully, it was never used); its existence was a state secret until the break up of Yugoslavia in the 1990s.

Construction started in 1953 and it was finished in 1977 at a cost of 4.6 billion USD. It has an underground horseshoe shaped structure and entrance is via a row of three normal looking houses in an isolated setting. It now functions to protect cultural heritage and has many art installations.Read more
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Day 9
Sunday, September 25, 2022 at 2:00 PM
🌧 15 °C
Altitude: 54 m
Bosnia and Herzegovina Old Bridge of Mostar 43.337596, 17.81511743°20’15” N 17°48’54” E
Mostar
September 25, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ 🌧 15 °C
Mostar is the historic capital of Herzegovina (just as Sarajevo is for Bosnia). It is situated by the Neretva River and this is crossed in the Old Town by the famous Stari Most (Old Bridge). The Bridge dates from 1566, but was destroyed in the Bosnian War; it was reconstructed and had a grand re-opening in 2004 - it is now UNESCO protected.

We vist an old 16th centuryTurkish House (Katjaz House) and the walk the cobbled streets of the Old Town, before returning to the Koski Nehmed Mosque; this has a beautiful interior and it possible to climb the steep steps of the minaret for magnificent views of the city.

After dinner we walk around the beautiful Old Town again.Read more
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Day 10
Monday, September 26, 2022 at 11:00 AM
🌧 19 °C
Altitude: 277 m
Bosnia and Herzegovina Old Ottoman City 42.710985, 18.34702642°42’40” N 18°20’49” E
Tvrdos Monastery and Trebinje
September 26, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ 🌧 19 °C
We drive south towards the Adriatic and visit the 15th century Serbian Orthodox Tvrdos Monastery, situated on cliffs above Trebinje. The Monastery was destroyed by an earthquake in the 17th century and rebuilt in 1920; the original 4th century roman church foundations are still visible inside the church. Tvrdos Monastery is renowned for its wine production and, yes, we sampled the white and the red.

Trebinje is the southernmost city in BiH; it is situated on the River Trebisnjica and is only 28km from Dubrovnik. The small, walled Old Town is 18th century Ottoman and this is surrounded by Austro-Hungarian (1878-1918) buildings; there are also 10 forts on the hills surrounding the city.

We have a tour of the Old Quarter and see the two mosques; the taller one cost the life of its builder as it was larger than that of the more dominant sultan. Outside the Old Quarter we see sites of the Austro-Hungarian period.

We then walk along the river to see the Arslanagic-Perovia Bridge; this was moved downstream due to the building of a dam. Because of this fact, this historic Bridge is not able to obtain UNESCO status.Read more
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Day 11
Tuesday, September 27, 2022 at 10:00 AM
🌧 19 °C
Altitude: 10 m
Croatia Sponza Palace 42.641029, 18.10968142°38’28” N 18°6’35” E
Croatia - Dubrovnik 1; The Old Town
September 27, 2022 in Croatia ⋅ 🌧 19 °C
Dubrovnik is a city on the Adriatic Sea in the southeast of Croatia; it is a UNESCO site in recognition of its medieval architecture and fortified old town. The Old Town is surrounded by a series of defensive stone walls and is one of the Mediterranean's top tourist destinations.

It is a fantastic place and we joined a guide for his tour of the Old Town (mainly following the blue line on the free city tourist map, but with a few diversions), starting at the Gate of Ploce. We see many of the Old Towns churches and main sites (see captions on pictures) as we criss-cross the southern part of the Old Town to the Stradun (main street) and reach the Gate of Pile.Read more
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Day 11
Tuesday, September 27, 2022 at 1:24 PM
🌧 20 °C
Altitude: 12 m
Croatia Sponza Palace 42.640895, 18.11015242°38’27” N 18°6’37” E
Dubrovnik 2; More of The Old Town
September 27, 2022 in Croatia ⋅ 🌧 20 °C
From the Gate of Pile - without the guide - we walk round the north part of the Old Town and look into one of the many Games of Thrones shops in the town. Back on the south part, we exit a small gate through the walls and descend down to a cafe and onto the rocks on the sea. Then it is back to the harbour area for a visit to the Porporela, a breakwater in the old city port; this is an old town landmark and 19th century pier which is popular for short walks and sea views.

There is a lot more to do in Dubrovnik - the museums, a walk around the walls, a visit to Lokrum Island - but these will have to wait for the next visit here.....Read more
TravelerSome lovely photos 😃
10/30/22Reply
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Day 11
Tuesday, September 27, 2022 at 4:30 PM
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 8 m
Croatia Uvala Tiha 42.58134, 18.21724242°34’53” N 18°13’2” E
Cavtat
September 27, 2022 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Cavtat is the most southerly Croatian resort of all, located around 20 km south of Dubrovnik and only 22 km from the border with Montenegro; it is a village by the sea in a small bay with a seafront promenade.

The final night of our Journey through the Balkans is spent here and we have the chance to explore this lovely place (see picture captions) before a farewell dinner with our fellow Explore travellers.Read more
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Trip end
September 28, 2022