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Andrew's Travels
Andrew's Travels

Andrew's Travels

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  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaResenär
    Statue of Ranjiv Gandi outside Ooty station
    Charring Cross, a major road intersection in Ooty; the Adams Fountain is a public display fountainStreet sceneSt Stephen's ChurchTibetan MarketEntrance Gate to the Government Botanical GardensA welcoming statue insideThe Heritage BuildingsThe Explore Travel GroupThe JJ Pillar pillar was erected to mark the centenary year of the annual flower show in 1995The Italian GardenThe Italian GardenThe Italian Garden from the other endFlower arrangementFlower arrangement; a map of India and Sri LankaTopiary in the shape of a peacockLarge CactusPlant sculptureIn the Greenhouse

    Ooty (short for Udhagamandalam)

    4 februari, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We walk into Ooty from the railway station. Ooty was known as the Queen of the Hill Stations and as "Snooty Ooty" because officials from the British East India Company came to rule from here in the 18th century to escape the lowland heat.

    We have a walk round, but the main focus is to visit the Government Botanical Gardens, occupying 64 hectares in a terraced layout on the lower slopes of the Doddabetta peak; they are extremely attractive; see captions on photos for details.

    We leave Ooty and drive towards Bandipur National Park (in the state of Karnataka) via the Mudumalai National Park (still in Tamil Nadu); the two parks border one another via the same forest and the two states are separated by a bridge over a small river. We do see some wild animals en route.

    We check into our lodge style accommodation near Mangala village in the Bandipur National Park and watch Sir David Attenborough's "Wild Karnataka" natual history programme (2019) before a late buffet meal.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaResenär
    Nilgiri Mountain Railway; Coonoor Station Entrance
    Coonoor StationTrain exhibit"All aboard!"View of CoonoorThe trainViews en route to OotyView en route to OotyTea PlantationLocal ChurchLovedale Station; a 5 minute breakView en routeOoty Lake, also called Ooty Boathouse, was man-made by the British in 1824Ooty stationNilgiri Mountain Railway History; zoom in on the textLeaving Ooty Station

    Nilgiri Hills; Coonoor to Ooty by train

    4 februari, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We leave the hotel early (7:15am) to travel to Coonoor in the Nilgiri Hills. It is a spectacular drive, with many sharp hairpin turns, as we ascend the Western Ghats towards Coonoor (1,700m). Coonoor is a hill station known for its tea estates and coffee plantations.

    From Coonoor, we take the Nilgiri Mountain Railway to Ooty (another hill station); it was built by the British in the 19th century to negotiate the difficult mountain terrain and dense green forest between the two hill stations (the original train line from Mettupalayam ended at Coonoor). There are many fabulous views as we take this scenic journey to Ooty, rising from 1,700m to 2,200m above sea level and a travelling distance of 12 miles (see captions on photos for details).

    We get off at Ooty (see next post).    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaResenär
    A stop-off for chai en route near Jojan's home town
    Palakkad Fort; Outside, by the moatEntrance Gate / Also used to exitTempleView from the BastionPillars / WellOld treeView from the BastionDisused barrack buildingsDancers posing for usA young woman who has just got engagedThe tour group with the newly engaged coupleCoimbatore (Tamil Nadu); on the way to the marketMarket areaIn the marketIn the marketMarket sceneHindu TempleHindu Temple

    Palakkad Fort / Tamil Nadu; Coimbatore

    3 februari, Indien ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We leave Kochi and head north, eventually taking a tunnel through the Western Ghats; this mountain range stretches 1,600 km along the western coast of India from Kerala to Gujarat.

    We reach the town of Palakkad and visit Palakkad Fort; this was built in the 18th century from granite and is one of the best preserved forts in Kerala.

    We carry on into Tamil Nadu towards Combiatore, the third largest city in the state, and a convenient base or stop-off for visiting the Nilgiri Hills (where we go tomorrow). We have a short tour of the market area before heading off to our hotel.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaResenär
    Kathikali; Make-up application - the paper frill defines the jaw line
    Lalitha (really the demon Nakrathundi)JaynathanNakrathundi (in demon form with hair down and fangs out)The vocalistThe drummersScenes from the dramaScenes from the dramaThe final sceneHarbour area boat trip; Willingdon IslandDragon boat festival on Bolghatty IslandChinese Fishing Net off Bolghatty IslandChurch Festival on Bolghatty IslandChurch Festival on Bolghatty IslandViews of ErnakulamChinese Fishing Nets at dusk; Vulpeen Island / Willingdon Island

    Kochi 3; Kathakali dance / Boat trip

    2 februari, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Some of the group go to the optional Khatakali dance performance, a "story-play" that is said to be the very essence of Kochi; the concept is almost 400 years old, and melds dance, drama and music (both vocal and instrumental). We will see only a short extract, as the real thing goes on all day!

    The actor dancers are all male; there is no speaking, just symbolic hand gestures, eye movements, and face movements. Music is supplied by a vocalist marking the beat with a chengi (small gong) and rwo percussionists with drums.

    Our show comprised watching make-up being applied in part (this can be a 3 hour process, as heavily empasised features are created).

    We see a short extract from the Narakasura Vadhan in which Nakrathundi, the demon sister of the demon Narakasura, reaches heaven to kidnap beautiful women for her brother. Unfortunately, she falls in love with Jaynatan (green face) there and disguises herself as Lalitha (yellow face). Lalitha flirts with Jaynathan but is rejected, so she reverts to Nakrathundi (fangs, different hair) to battle with him; she loses, and he cuts off her breasts, nose and ears.

    The half-hour performance was really good with excellent singing and drumming; the facial expressions and eye movements were amazing to see.

    Later, we all set off on a boat trip at 4:30 pm from Fort Kochi to see the harbour area and some of the surrounding islands; this was really good and pleasant after a hot day (see captions on photos for details); we are very fortunate and see some interesting things.

    Then it's dinner! A full day.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaResenär
    Mattancherry Palace, aka The Dutch Palace
    MuralMuralMuralViews into the courtyardIn the Durbar Rooms; Ivory Palanquin CarrierOne of the Sultans of KeralaWall paintingView of roomView from window of a small Church, small Synagogue, and small Hindu TempleMattancherry Jewish QuarterHandicraft shop frontClothes shopSpice shopParadesi Jewish SynagogueThe Brass PulpitHand painted Chinese tiles on the floor; all the rows are subtly differentGinger House Restaurant; way in and gardenView inside the restaurant

    Kochi 2; Mattancherry

    2 februari, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Mattancherry forms the other part of Kochi Old Town and contains both the Mattancherry Palace and the Jewish Quarter.

    Mattancherry Palace is a colonial gem and was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century and given to the ruler of Cochin as a gesture of goodwill. It later underwent extensive renovation by the Dutch and became known as the Dutch Palace. The two storied, quadrilateral structure is built around a courtyard and is today a museum with murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana and other legends. In the so-called Dunbar Rooms, hang portraits of the Kerala rulers. An interesting visit.

    We walk up the road to the Jewish Quarter; it is home to many antique warehouses and spice rooms, which we see on our way to the Paradesi Synagogue, India's oldest active Synagogue The first Jews in India settled in the 1st century at Shingly, but persecution by the Portuguese in the 16th century made them move to Cochin, dividing into two groups, the Malabari Jews (black, descended from the original settlers) and the Paradesim Jews (white, who came from the Middle East). In 1940, there were 2,400 Jews here, but now only a few families remain. The Paradesi Synagogue has a tiled roof and a Clock Tower and was rebuilt with Dutch help in 1664 - there are many treasures here.

    Afterwards, we go to the interesting Ginger House Restaurant for lunch.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaResenär
    En route to Kochi; Hindu Temple Festival
    Hindu Temple Festival; Devotee / A child's first taste of solid foodLighthouse / First glimpse of the Arabian Sea (behind the beach)Chellanam; More glimpses of the Arabian SeaFishermen repairing netsChurch designed to look like a boatMap of Kochi, showing Fort Kochi and Mattancherry, Willingdon Island, ErnakulamFort Kochi; David Hall Contemporary Art Gallery and Cafe / Jimi Hendrix paintingsCochin Club / Old Dutch BuildingDoby Khana; used for the original Fort Kochi staff, it is still used todaySt Francis ChurchThe Tomb of Vaco da Gamba, a Portuguese ExplorerCannon Ball Tree on the roadside; Trunk with fruit growing out / flower / lizardChinese Fishing Nets; introduced by Chinese explorers, a Kochi symbolHauling the net upFish Market on the promenadeOld Harbour Hotel;a 300 year old Dutch Mansion, the first hotel of Old CochinSanta Cruz CathedralJail Museum (aka Jail of Freedom Struggle); it was used to confine Indian Freedom Fighters

    Kochi 1; Fort Kochi

    1 februari, Indien ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After the short walk in Alappuzha, we set off in the minibus for Kochi, stopping off to see some of a festival at a small Hindu Temple en route. Later, we stop again to visit Chellanham, a fishing village and suburb of Kerala; it is interesting to see their colourful fishing nets being repaired and the quirky church in the form of a fishing boat.

    We reach Kochi (formerly Cochin); the city is built around a saltwater lagoon of the Arabian Sea and is actually a collection of narrow islands and peninsulars. It has a beautiful natural harbour and was originally founded on trade from the Jewish and Arabian Spice Traders in the 1st century. It grew in importance in the 16th century with the arrival of the Portuguese, then Dutch,and then English; it has an eclectic heritage.

    Kochi City is divided into 3 main regions; Fort Kochi, Mattancherry (both have old-world charm, with a blend of Dutch, Portuguese, and English buildings and form the Old Town), and the modern Ernakulam (shopping malls and glitzy apartment buildings). We focus on the first two, apparently!

    This afternoon, we visit Fort Kochi; we enjoy lunch at the Fort Paragon restaurant before exploring the area with our guide - see captions on photos for details. Of particular interest is the Chinese style of fishing; they are fixed installations operated from on or near the shore, with nets set up on bamboo and teak poles and held horizontally by huge mechanisms, which lower them into the sea.

    Our hotel is on Willington Island, a man-made island using soil dredged from the long Vembanad Lake (the other end is Alappuzha, see previous post - Vembanad Lake is the longest in India); it is home for the port of Kochi and the Naval Base, as well as many other port related trusts. After some downtime, Helen and I pop into the Maruthi Vilas Vegetarian restaurant near the hotel.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaResenär
    En route to Alappuzha; Pattumalay - tea plantation / tea flower and tea plant bean
    Pattumalay; tea plantationPattumalay; ChurchView from road en routeAlappuzha; houseboats / View along the waterway of the Kerala BackwatersView along the waterway of the Kerala BackwatersView along the waterway of the Kerala BackwatersA colourful house along the waterwayLake VembanadWaterway on the other side of the lakeWaterway on the other side of the lakeView of a church along the waterwayView back to Lake VembanadViews along the waterway back to AlappuzhaAlappuzha; banana chip vendorLunch / DinnerAfter a night on the houseboat, views on the way back to Alappuzha "harbour"Alappuzha "harbour" / Our Gold River HouseboatViews up and down a small canalOn the bridge over the canal

    Kerala Backwaters Tour from Alappuzha

    31 januari, Indien ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We set off after breakfast from Thekkady and stop off at a tea plantation in Pattumaly on our way to the town of Alappuzha (aka Alleppey) in the Kerala Backwaters; we are going to an area of low-lying waterways, lagoons, and rivers running parallel to the Arabian Sea.

    We board our Gold River Houseboat, a converted rice barge, just after 1pm and head via waterways to Vembanad Lake; we cross the bottom most tip of this to the other side and circle round more waterways and then double back the other end of the long, narrow Vembanad Lake is at Kochi). We catch glimpses of the local lifestyle, seeing houses that back directly onto the waterways.

    We moor at about 6 pm, and then have a short walk locally, visiting a banana chip manufacturer and a coconut milk supplier. We return to the houseboats (there are two for the group) and eat together on the larger one, enjoying a splendid meal. There has been a lot of sitting around today, which is very tiring, but it's been another good one.

    During and after breakfast on the houseboat, we do another short trip back to the Alappuzha "harbour", visit a tourist shop, and have a short walk before travelling to Kochi.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaResenär
    En route to Kerala; Fruit bats in a Banyan Tree
    Modern Hindu Durga Temple; the man is wearing modern clothingBrick manufacture, first stage; raw materials, shape, leave for one weekBrick manufacture, second and third stages; dry for one week / smoke in kiln for one weekApproaching the Western Ghat Hills, the border between Tamil Nadu and KeralaThekkady Spice Plantation; Pepper / Thalasseri Pepper / Picking PepperNutmeg / Nutmeg and Nut Mace on its surfaceCinnamon / Clove / Allspice / JackfruitCardamom PlantationLord's Flavours Spice Shop; selling the spices we saw on our tourBar-B-Que Thekkady Cookery Class; our hosts homeGrating coconutPreparing the foodPreparing Paratha flatbread1Serving a freshly cooked poppadomThe meal / The beers!

    Kerala; Thekkady

    30 januari, Indien ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We set off early for Thekkady so that we can stop off at some interesting places en route (see captions on photos for details).

    There are good views as we near the Western Ghats that separate Tamil Nadu and Kerala. It is a steep ascent to the top, where we cross into Kerala; surprisingly, the minibus has to stop for paperwork checks.

    Kerala is known for its coconut groves, paddy fields, hills, backwaters, and rainforests; the religions of Hindu, Christianity, and Islam are all practiced here. It is a very political state and has the highest literacy rate in India.

    At Thekkady, we visit a spice plantation; the tour is very informative and interesting. India is the world's largest exporter and consumer of spices, and the soil composition in Kerala is ideal for cardamom, cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon.

    After checking in at the hotel, we go to a house (Bar-B-Que) for an Indian food cookery class. It is a lovely evening, and we prepare and eat;
    Beans Thoran / Pineapple Curry / Alumni Masala / Fish Curry / BBQ Masala (chicken) / Okra Roast / Paratha.

    It was an amazing meal and experience.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaResenär
    Thirumaki Nyaker Palace; the courtyard
    Pillared hallA magnificent ceilingAnother pillared hallCeilingsMadurai; Typical street sceneStreet sceneStreet sceneStreet sceneStreet sceneCine Suvai Restaurant; a Kollywood Cinema Themed Restaurant for lunchMeenakshi Sundareswarer Temple; East GopuraAshta Shakti Mandapa; from the outsideAshta Shakti Mandapa; views of the ceiling and walls inside, from the outsideSouth Gopura / View through the entranceWest GopuraNorth GopuraView into the complex from the roof of a tourist shopView into the complex from the roof of a tourist shopThe Golden Lotus Tank; photo of a poster outside the complex

    Madurai

    29 januari, Indien ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Madurai is at the heart of the Tamil and Dravidian cultures, as well as being very important to Hindus; it was the Pandyan Dynasty capital from the 7th to 13th centuries, and Nayakan Dynasty capital from the 16th to 17th centuries. Religion and culture remain an important part of city life to this day.

    We visit the Thirumaki Nyakar Palace, where the power and wealth of the Nyakan Dynasty is evident in the remains of this once grand Palace - only the spacious courtyard and a few adjoining buildings remain now (see captions on photos). After a walk in the local area, we have lunch and return to the hotel.

    Later on, we go to the Meenakshi Sundareswarer Temple (aka Minakshi Temple); this is a historic Hindu Temple Complex dedicated to the Goddess Meenakshi, whose consort was Pavarti, a form of Shiva. It was originally built by the Pandyan and extensively added to by succeeding dynasties. It is within a high walled enclosure, and we walk around its perimeter wall, seeing the four main Gopura, which unfortunately for us are undergoing extensive renovation. We also get good views from the roof of a tourist shop, where we have the opportunity to buy Indian carpets (see captions on photos). We go inside for a tour and witness daily ceremonies.

    There is strictly no photography inside the complex. We enter via the North Gopura after dropping off cameras, bags, shoes, etc, and visit the Thousand Pillar Hall (now a museum) and its beautifully decorated columns. We then go to the Kambattadi Mandapa (aka Flagpole Hall) and see an evening ceremony. We are not able to visit Sundareswarer Shrine being non-Hindus, but we did see its gold roof from the tourist shop; nor can we visit the Mibakshi Shrine (also with a gold roof). Next, we go to and sit at the Potramarai Kulam (the Golden Lotus Tank), surrounded by pillared corridors. Finally, we exit via the North Gopura and are very fortunate to see the chariot with an image of Shiva bring transported to join his consort in another part of the temple, a nightly ritual

    Then it's back to the hotel for a late meal.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaResenär
    First Gopura; side and front views
    Second Gopura; front view and close ups of rearThird GopuraStreet scenes outside the Fourth GopuraThe wooden chariot is pulled by devotees through the town during festivalsFourth Gopura; gateway to the sacred enclosure and the the rest of the ComplexStructure inside the inner complexView of the golden roofed sacred enclosure and beyond from the viewing pointView of other GopuraSites where offerings are made to ShivaLocals / Zoom in on the incarnations of ShivaInside one of the Mandapa pillared hallsPriest / Attempting a yoga stretchView over pond / Elephant carvingGopura / Detail of the Gopura / Doorway to healthSeshagiriayar Mandapa; Rearing stone horse / Shiva incarnationMixing with the locals on the way outRiver Ghat at Amma MandapamView of the Rock Fort above Tiruchirapalli

    Srirangam; Ranganatha Temple Complex

    28 januari, Indien ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    After breakfast, we set off on the long drive to Madurai via Srirangam, a river island that is a neighthood of part of the city of Tiruchirapalli. Srirangam is a 2-mile long river island formed by the confluence of the Rivers Kaveri and Kollidam; the Ranganatha Temple here makes the town a Temple Town as the Temple Sanctuary, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, totally dominates it.

    The religious complex of Ranganatha is enclosed by fortress like boundary walls (prakaras) that are entered via ceremonial gateways (gopuras); it is the largest religious complex in the world that is used for active worship. It has a total of 21 gopuras and many pillared halls (mandapa), and it is built in the Dravidian style.

    The outer three boundary walls comprise residences for priests, hostels for pilgrims, and shops selling offerings. The Sacred Precinct begins from the fourth enclosure, and this area contains, amongst others, the most important shrines, including the inner sanctum with its gold plated roof; these can not be visited by non-Hindus, but the outer shrines and enclosures can be.

    We see what we can, led by our tour guide, Jojan, and afterwards, we visit the river ghats at Amma Mandapam, which is a short distance away on the river edge; this is where devotees come to bathe and have their heads shaved for ceremonies.

    We then carry on to Mandurai, arriving at our hotel at about 7:30pm. It's been along, but good, day!    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaResenär
    Sri Aurobindo Ashram, entrance
    Sri Aurobindo Ashram; the samadhi (memorial stone) - photograph of postcardManakula Vinayaker Temple; archway to entranceThe archway ceilingEntranceView inside the Temple (taken from outside)View inside the Temple (taken from outside)Side of TempleFrench Quarter; typical buildings4Along the Goubert Salai promenadeThe lighthouseMahatma Gandhi StatueChurch of Our Lady of Amgels (Notre Dame)Dinner; Fish Curry and Kingfisher beer

    Puducherry (formerly Pondicherry)

    27 januari, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Pondicherry is now known in the Tamil language as Puducherry and was established as the former capital of the French territories in India in 1674. It is located on the east coast of Tamil Nadu and is now the administrative capital of a union territory founded in 1926.

    After checking into our hotel, we cross the now dry canal (originally the demarcation between the French and Tamil areas) into the French Quarter; Pondicherry remained under French rule until 1954, and the French Quarter is laid out in a grid pattern.

    We visit the Sri Aurobindo Ashram; this is Pondicherry"s best known landmark and is a restful retreat - inside, there is strictly no photography, and absolute silence has to be observed. The focal point for disciples and followers of Sri Aurobindo is the flower festooned samadhi (his memorial) in the main courtyard under a frangipani tree.

    Next, we go to the Manakula Vinayaker Temple; this Hindu Temple is dedicated to Ganesha and has walls portraying his 40 different forms. It is very interesting inside, with good music but no photography.

    We walk through the attractive French Quarter, with its colonial buildings and street signs in French, to the Goubert Solai, the main promenade along the Bay of Bengal. We walk along this to the Old Lighthouse; close by is the statue of Mahatma Gandhi. We then see the Church of Our Lady of Angels (Notrre Dame) before going to the Rendezvous Restaurant at the top of a building for food. Another good day.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaResenär
    Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary
    Painted Storks1En route to the main roadLunch; Vegetable Thali

    Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary

    27 januari, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    After breakfast, we drive through Chennai to stop off at the Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary on our way to Puducherry. Based around a freshwater lake, it is the oldest wildlife sanctuary in India (it was established in 1936), but also one of the smallest.

    The Bird Sanctuary is mainly visited by local people and is a protected area because it is an important breeding ground for large migrating birds such as herons, storks, cormorants, etc. Our visit coincides with the breeding season, and there are many birds here.

    The Sanctuary is off the beaten track, and we see some interesting views en route back to the main road to Puducherry and a stop off for lunch.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaResenär
    India National Day Ceremony
    After the unfurling of the flagAn example of a Kolam artwork display on the groundStatue on a small roundaboutPolitical displayTypical shop frontSmall Hindu TempleMylapore; Luz ChurchThe Explore Travel groupThe inside of Luz ChurchOutside Luz ChurchKapaleeshwarer Hindu TempleKapaleeshwarer Hindu TempleKapaleeshwarer Hindu TempleKapaleeshwarer Hindu TempleKapaleeshwarer Hindu TempleKapaleeshwarer Hindu TempleView onto the tank of Kapaleeshwarer Hindu TempleDinner; SPL Paneer Masala Dosai

    Tamil Nadu; Chennai

    26 januari, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Helen and I first visited India in Dec 1989 / Jan 1990 when we travelled independently through North India; our next visit was in early 2018 when we visited Central India with Explore Travel. So here we are, 35 years later, to complete our travels here (or have we....).

    Chennai (population 20 million), formerly Madras, is the capital state of Tamil Nadu (population 73 million); Tamil Nadu is 70% Hindu, so there are many Hindu Temples in the region, but there are also examples if many other kinds of religious architecture in the region. Chennai is a large city with lots of traffic, and the tour doesn't spend time here (for some reason 🙂).

    We had a good journey here, arriving at our hotel at about 7:45 am. By coincidence, today, January 26th, is India National Day, marking the adoption of the Indian Constitution in 1950 and signifying India's status as a democratic Republic. Flags are unfurled in ceremonies throughout the country, and we were in time to witness such a ceremony at our hotel (Grand Chennai by GRT).

    After rest, we have a short walk in the area around the hotel before meeting up with the others; after introductions, etc, we set up off in the minibus to the Mylapore area of Chennai. Here, we visit the Luz Church (built on 1516 by the Portuguese) and then go to the Kapaleeskwarer Temple; this Hindu Temple Complex was built in the 7th century in the Dracidian architectural style, and has a large tank in front of it.

    We finish off Day 1 with a lovely vegetarian meal before crashing out at the hotel.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamResenär
    Dong Treu; Ceramic Village
    Dong Treu; Ceramic VillageDong Treu; Ceramic VillageDong Treu; Ceramic VillageDong Treu; Ceramic VillageDong Treu; Ceramic VillageHong Ngoc disabled people charity centreHong Ngoc disabled people charity centreHong Ngoc disabled people charity centreHanoi; A miniature stage of water puppet theatre performed by Phanh Thanh Liem at his houseIt's harder than it looks!Hanoi; Train StreetHanoi; Train StreetHanoi; Train StreetQuang, our tour guide, at our farewell dinner

    En route to Hanoi and Hanoi 3

    26 november 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    On our journey back to Hanoi, we stop at Dong Treu and visit the Ceramic Village before heading on to visit the Hong Ngoc disabled people charity centre: here, disabled people, including second generation Agent Orange victims, can live, study and learn to make artistic products - some are astonishing, but photography of these is not allowed.

    In Hanoi, we stop off at a pre-arranged and private water puppet show by Phan Thanh Liem, who was born in a family with a long tradition of performing water puppet theatre; his generation is the 7th.

    After a couple of hours at the hotel, we head off to see Train Street, a narrow train bypass in Hanoi which sees a twice-daily train pass close to buildings on either side of the tracks (not while we were there), before going to our farewell dinner in the Old Quarter at the Hanoi Food Culture Restaurant and Cooking; another fabulous meal and the end of our Classic Vietnam tour with Intrepid Travel - we thoroughly recommend Vietnam, and this trip, to anybody reading this photojournal.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamResenär
    Halong Bay; at the harbour
    Halong Bay; a typical viewKarst outcropDao Titop, Tito IslandMarshall Tito statueView from the top onto the bayHa Long Pearl FarmHa Long Pearl FarmKayakKayakingLocals selling their waresNight on Halong Bay; view ftom our overnight mooring spotHang Sung Sot (Cave of Surprise) access pointHang Sung Sot; first chamberHang Sung Sot; second chamberHang Sung Sot; third chamber - the illuminated symbol of fertilityHang Sung Sot; third chamber - overviewHang Sung Sot; third chamber - Turtle GodHang Sung Sot; third chamber - pillarHang Sung Sot - view over Halong Bay

    Halong Bay

    25–26 nov. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    It takes about 4 hours to Halong City from Ninh Binh. Halong City faces onto Halong Bay and is very new, large, and developing rapidly. At the harbour, the Intrepid Group has a private boat (Bien Ngoc Cruise); there are many much larger boats here!

    We set out into Halong Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site of outcrops, caves, and coves covering more than 1,500 square km that contains more than 2,000 pinnacle shaped limestone and dolomite karst outcrops; Ninh Binh, which we have just left, is said to be an inland Halong Bay. Halong Bay is considered to be one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World.

    We enjoy an excellent lunch as we sail through this magnificent seascape to Dao Titop; Tito Island is named after Marshall Tito, the Yugoslav communist who helped Vietnam in its time of need. The island has a small beach and a 400 step climb to a viewpoint over the bay.

    We then stop at the Ha Long Pearl Farm; apparently, 1 in 1,000 oysters gives a pearl naturally, but here they are able to stimulate greater production by injection to irritate the shell. There is also the opportunity to go kayaking, which I do (without the mobile); we see some lovely sites close up on the base of karst pinnacles. Then it's back to the boat for beers and another amazing meal at our mooring point for the evening close to Bo Hon Island.

    In the morning, we have an early start to beat the crowd for our visit to Bo Hon Island to Hang Sung Sot (Cave of Surprise). There are three caverns here and a vantage point with a great view over Halong Bay.

    We go back to our boat for breakfast, whilst heading back to the harbour to meet our minibus.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamResenär
    Entering the Buddha Cave
    Inside the Buddha CaveInside the Buddha CaveLeaving the Buddha CaveThe Mermaid CaveThe Mermaid CaveThe Mermaid CaveThe Mermaid CaveThe eco-park areaThe eco-park areaThe eco-park areaThe eco-park areaThung Nyam Bird ParkBoat trip to the Bird Watching IslandBird Watching Island; Grey HeronBird Watching Island; Grey HeronBird Watching Island; White FlamingoTam Coc; Old Viet PubThe Intrepid Travel GroupStir fried goat with lemongrass and chili

    Ninh Binh; Thung Nham Eco-tourism Park

    24 november 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    In the afternoon, we go to the Thung Nham Eco-tourism Area in the Hai Nham valley; this is a major tourist attraction. We go to the Buddhist Cave by row boat; this is a natural cave that is 500m long with a statue of Buddha in the middle, but it is too dark to see anything. Next, we walk, stooping, along the Mermaid Cave with its system of stalactites. We walk through the attractive eco-park and are taken by larger rowing boats to see Bird Watching Island, where there are many Grey Heron and White Flamingo.

    Then it's dinner in Tam Coc after a break; another full-on day.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamResenär
    Hang Mua; "The Great Wall of Vietnam"
    The dragon at the start of the 500 steep step ascentTiger cave at the startView up to the tower1The towerView over to the lying stone Dragon of Hang Mua (Negra Long)View down from the ascent to the Dragon of Hang Mua to the tower and lotus pondsGuanyin, the female Buddha overlooked and protected by the dragonNgra Long, the lying dragonThe shrine at the end of the dragon's tailThe lotus ponds at the base of Hang MuaLotus flower and podThe lotus pondsBich Dong Pagoda; entranceBich Dong PagodaBich Dong Pagoda; Ha Pagoda (lower)Bich Dong Pagoda; Trung Pagoda (middle)Bich Dong Pagoda; Thurong Pagoda (upper)Buddha; Lower / Middle/ Upper

    Ninh Binh; Hang Mua and Bich Dong Pagoda

    24 november 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    This morning we drive to the Hang Mua (aka Dragon's Den Cave) and the associated Mua Mountain viewpoint (aka Lying Dragon Mountain), which is part of the Trang Am Complex in Ninh Binh province; the cave is at the foot of the mountain. It is a climb of 500 steep steps to the two peaks of Mua Mountain, the highlight being a Buddhist statue and a lying stone Dragon (Ngra Long) protecting it. There are excellent 360-degree views at the top. At the base of the mountain are large lotus ponds, which we walk around. See captions on photos for details.

    We return to our hotel, and after a break, I have a walk through our village, Dam Khe, to the local Pagoda. It turns out that this is an important site in Ninh Binh - the Bich Dong Pagoda and Cave. Located on a mountain, it is on three levels - Ha Pagoda, Trung Pagoda, and Thuong Pagoda (lower, middle, upper), with the upper two being partly in caves. Very interesting to see!    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamResenär
    Van Long Wetlands Nature Reserve; boat trip
    Phat Diem CathedralLimestone karstInside a caveInside a caveLimehouse karstHoa Lu, the first capital of Vietnam; main entrance to the siteDinh Temple; entranceAltar wirh dragon bed in front of itLe Temple; entranceAltar wirh dragon bed in front of itBicycle ride in the local areaTam CocLimestone karst

    Ninh Binh; Van Long Wetlands and Hoa Lu

    23 november 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We drive to the Ninh Binh province and the Van Long Wetlands Nature Reserve (almost 2 hours); this is one of the few intact Lowland inland wetlands remaining in the Red River Delta. Here, limestone karst is surrounded by freshwater lakes, marshes, and swamps. We are taken out on row boats to see the area and are fortunate to see the rare Delacour Langur monkey. We enjoy fantastic views.

    It is then a short drive to Hoa Lu; this historic site was the first capital of Vietnam from 968 - 1009. Dinh Bo Linh founded the Dinh Dynasty; this lasted for 12 years and was followed by the Le Dynasty, which lasted for 25 years - the founder of the Ly Dynasty transferred the capital to Thang Long (now Hanoi). The site is mainly ruins now, but Temples remain for the Dinh and Le dynasties.

    After this, we have a home-prepared lunch and transfer to our hotel. Some of us go put for a cycle ride in the local area; a circular route from Dam Khe hamlet where the hotel is located to Tam Coc and back; this is most enjoyable.

    We enjoy a simple meal with beer later.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamResenär
    Opera House; modelled on the Paris design
    Modern Street billboardStreet theatreStreet theatreHoan Kiem LakeHoan Kiem Lake; the Turtle Tower Pagoda (Thap Rua) has been erected on an isletThe Jade Mountain Temple (Den Ngoc Son) is reached by the red Huc BridgeThe Huc Bridge from the other side of the lakeHoan Khiem Lake; Hanoi Municipal People's Committee BuildingHoan Kiem Lake; Statue of Emperor Ly Thai ToHoan Kiem Lake; remnant of CitadelThe top of the lake, where the night market in the Old Quarter startsNight Market: It is in the middle of the streetNight Market and side of the streetShops at the side of the streetTemple along the streetNight MarketNight MarketThe covered day market, Cho Dong Xuan, marks the end of the night market route

    Hanoi 2; Hoan Kiem Lake and Old Quarter

    22 november 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We meet up at 6 pm in reception for an evening walk across the French Quarter to Hoan Kiem Lake and up to the Old Quarter Night Market at the other end, before coming back on the other side of the lake; the captions on the photos describe the details of this walk.Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamResenär
    KOTO Van Mien Restaurant
    The startersThe Temple of Literature; entranceFirst courtyardSecond courtyardHue Van Cac, the Constellation of LiteratureThien Quang Tinh, the Well of Heavenly ClarityThien Quang Tinh, the Well of Heavenly ClarityTortoise Steles; these are inscribed with the details of scholars who have passed the trainingHouse of Ceremonies; a crane standing on a tortoiseThe Altar of ConfuciusThe Great Drum housed in traditional Sintic architectureBa Dinh Square; Ho Chi Minh MausoleumHo Chi Minh Mausoleum; the changing of the guardBa Dinh Square; National Assembly HallView backOne Pillar Pagoda; it stands in a lotus pond and has been rebuilt several timesThe altar

    Hanoi 1; Temple of Literature / Ba Dinh

    22 november 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We fly to Hanoi from Phu Bai Airport, Hue. Hanoi is a city situated on the Red River and founded in 1010 as a Citadel by Emperor Ly Thai To. The area of guilds around this eventually developed in the Old Quarter. The French destroyed much of the Citadel in the 19th to found the French Quarter. After the Indochina and Vietnam Wars, Hanoi became the capital of Vietnam, and it is now a thriving city with a population of 10 million.

    KOTO is a social enterprise organisation founded by Jimmy Pham to provide an opportunity for at-risk and disadvantaged youth to break the poverty cycle, and we have a large lunch at the KOTO Van Mieu Restaurant; many graduate gone on to become top chefs. It was excellent.

    The Temple of Literature is close-by; this is the oldest and finest architectural complex in Hanoi and dates from 1070. It is modelled on the Temple of Confucius in Qufu, China.

    From there, we travel by minibus to Ba Dinh Square, where Ho Chi Minh read the proclamation of independence in 1975; the Square is public but managed for security now. Ba Dinh Square had a number of sites of interest, including the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the National Assembly Hall, and the One Pillar Pagoda.

    We then go to our hotel to check in and have a break.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamResenär
    Thuy Xuan Incense Village; inside the shop we visit
    Making an Incense Stick (aka Joss Stick)Success!Outside the shopOutside the shopVegan lunch at a monasteryPart of the monasteryHue; walking alongside the Perfume River downtownAn old templeStatue and flamingos (also statues)View of the Cot Co in the Citadel, directly opposite on the other bank of the Perfume RiverModern buildingTypical build-up after waiting at the traffic lightsMarket opposite the hospitalStreet vendorsAfternoon Coffee; Salt coffee at the Cabin, before and after stirringDinner; Quang's grandparent's shrinePhotographs behind the shrineSome of the pre-prepared foodQuang's aunt preparing the home cooked dinner

    Hue; Incense Village, Walk, Home meal

    21 november 2024, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    After visiting the Royal Tomb of Tu Duc, it is a short drive to the Thuy Xuan Incense Village; this provided incense for the ancient dynasties in the Hue Imperial Palace, and is now a major tourist attraction. There are many shops selling "joss sticks" and showing how they are made, as well as many other items.

    After a delicious vegan lunch at a nearby monastery, our minibus takes us back to the hotel in Hue. We have some time to kill, so Helen and I go for a short walk along the Perfume River and then double back through part of the city to the hotel; the area is interesting as it is the hospital and medical part of Hue.

    During the Covid-19 lockdown, our tour guide, Quang, and his cousin set up a coffee shop close to where his family and relatives live in the western area of the Citadel. His cousin runs it now, and we visit for an afternoon coffee; we had salt coffee, a local speciality - excellent. Then we walked a few houses down to where Quang's aunt and uncle live; it was originally his grandparents's house, and there is a family shrine on entering (this is unusual nowadays in Vietnam, as times change). We had an amazing 5 course home-prepared, market-sourced meal prepared by Quang's aunt on limited cooking facilities, so all courses follow on quickly - we are very a very fortunate group.

    Then, it's back home by minibus in the rain - what a day!    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamResenär
    Dragon Boats on the Perfume River
    Thien Mu PagodaOne of the guardians on the three entrances to the main shrine areaThe main shrine buildingThe laughing BuddhaBuddhist shrineThe car driven by the monk to his immolation site in Saigon (1963)Helen by a Bonsai tree in the gardenThe Royal Tomb of Tu Duc; Vu Khiem Gate (entrance to the site)Xung Khiem PavilionThe burial mound of the people who built the Tomb and who buried the EmporerStele HouseLife-size figures of people from that time; they were shorterThe Stele; this describes the life of the Emperor in 5 stagesOne of the columns outside the Stele House, soon to be renovatedLong Khiem TempleHuyen Cung, behind the Long Khiem TempleHuyen Cung, behind the Long Khiem TempleView down to the pond from Stele House

    Hue; Thien Mu Pagoda / Royal Tomb Tu Duc

    21 november 2024, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    This morning, we visited a couple of important sites in Hue. See photos for details about them.

    The first is Thien Mu Pagoda, which is situated on the NW bank of the Perfume River. This iconic Pagoda has an octagonal tower and seven floors - 7 is considered a lucky number in Buddhism - and is noted for its laughing Buddha and the car driven by monk Thich Quang Duc to Saigon where he immolated himself in protest against the Dien regime and its discrimination against monks; images were sent around the world, provoking strong reaction.

    The second site we visit is the Royal Tomb of Tu Duc; only 7 out of the 13 Vietnamese emperors who reigned between 1802 and 1945 have their own Mausoleum; we visit that of Tu Duc, who was fourth in the Dynasty. He had it built in his lifetime (it took 3 years) ready for when he "retired"; he died 10 years later and was buried here. Everybody who was involved in the building of the Tomb and with the burial were poisoned at feasts to keep its location secret; they were all from prisons, and their families paid in recompense. The Tomb site, a beautiful location surrounded by ponds and frangipani trees, is UNESCO owned now and is being restored, so some of it could not be visited.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamResenär
    Crossing into the Citadel
    Cot Co (Flag Tower), a distinctive Hue landmarkInside the Citadel; Nine Deities lCannon, made from bronze and symbolic onlyNgo Mon Gate, the south entrance to the Imperial Palace within the CitadelOutside the Imperial Palace; entry via the Hien Lam PavilionInside the Imperial Palace; Thai Hoa PalaceHien Lam Pavilion from inside the Imperial PalaceThe To Mieu TempleAltar inside the To Mieu TempleLooking back to the Hien Lam Pavilion, with the Nine Dynastic Urns, before itTree outside the To Mieu TempleInside the Forbidden Purple City; the 1968 Tet Offensive destroyed much of itWalkwayThe restored Kien Trung Palace (finished in 2023)Kien Trung Palace; the frontKien Trung Palace; close upView from inside the Kien Trung Palace down to the Cot CoView from inside the Kien Trung PalaceInside the Kien Trung PalaceThe last Emporer of Vietnam; Bao Dai, reigned from 1926 to 1945

    Hue; Citadel and the Imperial Palace

    20 november 2024, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Hue is one of the most significant cultural and historic centres in Vietnam, as it was the former imperial city of the country. Built between 1805 and 1832, the vast Hue Citadel formed the capital of the Nguyen Dynasty until 1945. Within the Citadel lies the once magnificent Imperial City, and within this is the Forbidden Purple City, where only the queen, some concubines, and court eunuchs were allowed to enter.

    After the end of the monarchy in 1945, the Imperial City suffered heavy damage and neglect during the Indochina Wars through the 1980s. The Imperial City was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993 and is undergoing restoration.

    We walk through the site from one side to the other; see captions on photos for details. Later on, we enjoy more delicious Vietnamese food and Huda beer.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamResenär
    Da Nang; Dragon Bridge
    Da Nang; Dragon BridgeView en route to the Hai Van PassHai Van Pass; the summitHai Van Pass; an entranceHai Van Pass; military bunkerHai Van Pass; military bunkerHai Van Pass; view from a military bunkerLang Co LagoonLang Co LagoonLang Co LagoonHue; shared lunch

    En route to Hue via the Hai Van Pass

    20 november 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We set off early on our minibus to our next destination; Hue. We drive through Da Nang, Vietnam's third city, and a major hub due to its central location. We drive past and over the spectacular Dragon Bridge and the head north towards the Hai Van Pass over the Truong Son Range.

    There are good views from the summit of the pass, down to Da Nang in the south and up to Lang Co Lagoon in the north. There are many old bunkers at the top of the pass, both French and American (the TV series Top Gear featured it in an episode on Vietnam in 2008). The bunkers were used by American forces during the Vietnam War, as it is an important trade route. There is now a tunnel option to the high pass route for large vehicles, such as lorries and coaches.

    We stop off at the Lang Co Lagoon for coffee before continuing on to Hue, arriving in time for lunch at the Elegant Restaurant; Helen and I share two local Hue traditional meals - fried pancake with shrimp and pork, and Nem Lui, minced pork with a lemon grass skewer. Both are lovely, especially with a local Hude beer.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamResenär
    The Green Mango Restaurant...
    .. and it's husband day care centreChef in actionBanana blossom salad with chicken, duck spring rolls / Pho Bo with beef, and noodles1BBQ fish in banana leaf / Mango sticky riceThe Intrepid ChefsOld Town; Trieu Chau Assembly HallOld Town; typical buildingOld Town; marketOld Town; Japanese Covered Bridge by dayView of Old Town from the An Hoi Island on the other side of the riverView of Old Town from the An Hoi Island on the other side of the riverBanh Mi for lunchThe Lune CentreBamboo Circus show (image from official website)Bamboo Circus show (image from official website)Bamboo Circus show (image from official website)Bamboo Circus show (image from official website)After the showThe Hoianian Restaurant

    Hoi An; Cookery, Old Town, Bamboo Circus

    18–19 nov. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Vietnamese food is well known for being healthy and nutritious and delicious; this evening, we went to the Green Mango restaurant in the Old Town to attend a Cookery Class. This provided the opportunity to see how it was done and then eat it! It was excellent, and so was the food (see captions on photos).

    The next day is a free day, so Helen and I visit the Old Town to explore it and do a little shopping (see captions on photos).

    After a break back at the hotel, the group went to The Lune Centre on An Hoi Island to see the Teh Dar Bamboo Circus show. This was absolutely incredible; amazing gymnastics and great music with singing. It tells the story about the circle of life and death for all living beings on Earth, told through the lens of Vietnamese Tribal Culture - "tel dar" means "travelling the circle". Photography during the show itself is strictly forbidden, so I have captured images from the official website (we saw all these things).

    After the show, we went for dinner at The Hoianian Restaurant on the Riverfront;this coincided with a full moon and high tide..

    An amazing 30 hours.    Läs mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamResenär
    The cycle group at the start
    Cau Cam Kim BridgeCrossing the bridgeCam Nam Isalnd; FieldsHaystackBoats on the riverOne of the processes in rice wine makingSome of the resultsOur cycle tour guide, Hanna, and our rice wine host, Mr DauMat weaving houseMat weavingMat weavingThe result 🙂Cam Kim Island; View of temple en routeFemale BuddhaRice paper making and noodle houseMaking rice paperMaking rice noodlesThe cycle group prior to taking the boat back to Hoi AnBlog prepared by our cycle guide

    Hoi An; Cam Nam and Cam Kim Islands

    18 november 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Most of the group are going on an optional guided cycling tour of the local area to see how the local Hoi An people (Hoianese) live in rural areas.

    We cross Cau Cam Kim (Cam Kim Bridge) over the Thu Bon River to Cam Nam Island. Our first stop is near a farm, where we enjoy the views. Next, we cycle on to the traditional rice wine making house of Mr Dau; here, we learn about the process and have the opportunity to sample guava, banana, and mulberry rice wines.

    A short walk to a house nearby, where mats are weaved by a lady and her son; incredible to see, and we all had a quick go - apparently, a small mat sells for the equivalent of 8 USD in the local market.

    We cycle on, crossing another bridge to Cam Kim Island. There are some interesting views as we make our final local culture visit to a local rice paper and noodle making workshop; we learn about the process and have a go a making rice paper before having lunch - freshly made noodles.

    We then cycle to get a local prearranged boat back to Hoi An; our guide Hanna prepared a vlog summary of the morning out (see photos). It's been a fantastic morning and early afternoon with some exercise thrown in (19 km of cycling).    Läs mer

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