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Southern India
  • Andrew's Travels

Southern India

A trip with Explore Travel on their Highlights of Southern India tour, visiting the states of Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Karnataka. Read more
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  • Trip start
    January 26, 2025
    Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    India National Day Ceremony
    After the unfurling of the flagAn example of a Kolam artwork display on the groundStatue on a small roundaboutPolitical displayTypical shop frontSmall Hindu TempleMylapore; Luz ChurchThe Explore Travel groupThe inside of Luz ChurchOutside Luz ChurchKapaleeshwarer Hindu TempleKapaleeshwarer Hindu TempleKapaleeshwarer Hindu TempleKapaleeshwarer Hindu TempleKapaleeshwarer Hindu TempleKapaleeshwarer Hindu TempleView onto the tank of Kapaleeshwarer Hindu TempleDinner; SPL Paneer Masala Dosai

    Tamil Nadu; Chennai

    January 26 in India ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Helen and I first visited India in Dec 1989 / Jan 1990 when we travelled independently through North India; our next visit was in early 2018 when we visited Central India with Explore Travel. So here we are, 35 years later, to complete our travels here (or have we....).

    Chennai (population 20 million), formerly Madras, is the capital state of Tamil Nadu (population 73 million); Tamil Nadu is 70% Hindu, so there are many Hindu Temples in the region, but there are also examples if many other kinds of religious architecture in the region. Chennai is a large city with lots of traffic, and the tour doesn't spend time here (for some reason 🙂).

    We had a good journey here, arriving at our hotel at about 7:45 am. By coincidence, today, January 26th, is India National Day, marking the adoption of the Indian Constitution in 1950 and signifying India's status as a democratic Republic. Flags are unfurled in ceremonies throughout the country, and we were in time to witness such a ceremony at our hotel (Grand Chennai by GRT).

    After rest, we have a short walk in the area around the hotel before meeting up with the others; after introductions, etc, we set up off in the minibus to the Mylapore area of Chennai. Here, we visit the Luz Church (built on 1516 by the Portuguese) and then go to the Kapaleeskwarer Temple; this Hindu Temple Complex was built in the 7th century in the Dracidian architectural style, and has a large tank in front of it.

    We finish off Day 1 with a lovely vegetarian meal before crashing out at the hotel.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary
    Painted Storks1En route to the main roadLunch; Vegetable Thali

    Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary

    January 27 in India ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    After breakfast, we drive through Chennai to stop off at the Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary on our way to Puducherry. Based around a freshwater lake, it is the oldest wildlife sanctuary in India (it was established in 1936), but also one of the smallest.

    The Bird Sanctuary is mainly visited by local people and is a protected area because it is an important breeding ground for large migrating birds such as herons, storks, cormorants, etc. Our visit coincides with the breeding season, and there are many birds here.

    The Sanctuary is off the beaten track, and we see some interesting views en route back to the main road to Puducherry and a stop off for lunch.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    Sri Aurobindo Ashram, entrance
    Sri Aurobindo Ashram; the samadhi (memorial stone) - photograph of postcardManakula Vinayaker Temple; archway to entranceThe archway ceilingEntranceView inside the Temple (taken from outside)View inside the Temple (taken from outside)Side of TempleFrench Quarter; typical buildings4Along the Goubert Salai promenadeThe lighthouseMahatma Gandhi StatueChurch of Our Lady of Amgels (Notre Dame)Dinner; Fish Curry and Kingfisher beer

    Puducherry (formerly Pondicherry)

    January 27 in India ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Pondicherry is now known in the Tamil language as Puducherry and was established as the former capital of the French territories in India in 1674. It is located on the east coast of Tamil Nadu and is now the administrative capital of a union territory founded in 1926.

    After checking into our hotel, we cross the now dry canal (originally the demarcation between the French and Tamil areas) into the French Quarter; Pondicherry remained under French rule until 1954, and the French Quarter is laid out in a grid pattern.

    We visit the Sri Aurobindo Ashram; this is Pondicherry"s best known landmark and is a restful retreat - inside, there is strictly no photography, and absolute silence has to be observed. The focal point for disciples and followers of Sri Aurobindo is the flower festooned samadhi (his memorial) in the main courtyard under a frangipani tree.

    Next, we go to the Manakula Vinayaker Temple; this Hindu Temple is dedicated to Ganesha and has walls portraying his 40 different forms. It is very interesting inside, with good music but no photography.

    We walk through the attractive French Quarter, with its colonial buildings and street signs in French, to the Goubert Solai, the main promenade along the Bay of Bengal. We walk along this to the Old Lighthouse; close by is the statue of Mahatma Gandhi. We then see the Church of Our Lady of Angels (Notrre Dame) before going to the Rendezvous Restaurant at the top of a building for food. Another good day.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    First Gopura; side and front views
    Second Gopura; front view and close ups of rearThird GopuraStreet scenes outside the Fourth GopuraThe wooden chariot is pulled by devotees through the town during festivalsFourth Gopura; gateway to the sacred enclosure and the the rest of the ComplexStructure inside the inner complexView of the golden roofed sacred enclosure and beyond from the viewing pointView of other GopuraSites where offerings are made to ShivaLocals / Zoom in on the incarnations of ShivaInside one of the Mandapa pillared hallsPriest / Attempting a yoga stretchView over pond / Elephant carvingGopura / Detail of the Gopura / Doorway to healthSeshagiriayar Mandapa; Rearing stone horse / Shiva incarnationMixing with the locals on the way outRiver Ghat at Amma MandapamView of the Rock Fort above Tiruchirapalli

    Srirangam; Ranganatha Temple Complex

    January 28 in India ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    After breakfast, we set off on the long drive to Madurai via Srirangam, a river island that is a neighthood of part of the city of Tiruchirapalli. Srirangam is a 2-mile long river island formed by the confluence of the Rivers Kaveri and Kollidam; the Ranganatha Temple here makes the town a Temple Town as the Temple Sanctuary, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, totally dominates it.

    The religious complex of Ranganatha is enclosed by fortress like boundary walls (prakaras) that are entered via ceremonial gateways (gopuras); it is the largest religious complex in the world that is used for active worship. It has a total of 21 gopuras and many pillared halls (mandapa), and it is built in the Dravidian style.

    The outer three boundary walls comprise residences for priests, hostels for pilgrims, and shops selling offerings. The Sacred Precinct begins from the fourth enclosure, and this area contains, amongst others, the most important shrines, including the inner sanctum with its gold plated roof; these can not be visited by non-Hindus, but the outer shrines and enclosures can be.

    We see what we can, led by our tour guide, Jojan, and afterwards, we visit the river ghats at Amma Mandapam, which is a short distance away on the river edge; this is where devotees come to bathe and have their heads shaved for ceremonies.

    We then carry on to Mandurai, arriving at our hotel at about 7:30pm. It's been along, but good, day!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    Thirumaki Nyaker Palace; the courtyard
    Pillared hallA magnificent ceilingAnother pillared hallCeilingsMadurai; Typical street sceneStreet sceneStreet sceneStreet sceneStreet sceneCine Suvai Restaurant; a Kollywood Cinema Themed Restaurant for lunchMeenakshi Sundareswarer Temple; East GopuraAshta Shakti Mandapa; from the outsideAshta Shakti Mandapa; views of the ceiling and walls inside, from the outsideSouth Gopura / View through the entranceWest GopuraNorth GopuraView into the complex from the roof of a tourist shopView into the complex from the roof of a tourist shopThe Golden Lotus Tank; photo of a poster outside the complex

    Madurai

    January 29 in India ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Madurai is at the heart of the Tamil and Dravidian cultures, as well as being very important to Hindus; it was the Pandyan Dynasty capital from the 7th to 13th centuries, and Nayakan Dynasty capital from the 16th to 17th centuries. Religion and culture remain an important part of city life to this day.

    We visit the Thirumaki Nyakar Palace, where the power and wealth of the Nyakan Dynasty is evident in the remains of this once grand Palace - only the spacious courtyard and a few adjoining buildings remain now (see captions on photos). After a walk in the local area, we have lunch and return to the hotel.

    Later on, we go to the Meenakshi Sundareswarer Temple (aka Minakshi Temple); this is a historic Hindu Temple Complex dedicated to the Goddess Meenakshi, whose consort was Pavarti, a form of Shiva. It was originally built by the Pandyan and extensively added to by succeeding dynasties. It is within a high walled enclosure, and we walk around its perimeter wall, seeing the four main Gopura, which unfortunately for us are undergoing extensive renovation. We also get good views from the roof of a tourist shop, where we have the opportunity to buy Indian carpets (see captions on photos). We go inside for a tour and witness daily ceremonies.

    There is strictly no photography inside the complex. We enter via the North Gopura after dropping off cameras, bags, shoes, etc, and visit the Thousand Pillar Hall (now a museum) and its beautifully decorated columns. We then go to the Kambattadi Mandapa (aka Flagpole Hall) and see an evening ceremony. We are not able to visit Sundareswarer Shrine being non-Hindus, but we did see its gold roof from the tourist shop; nor can we visit the Mibakshi Shrine (also with a gold roof). Next, we go to and sit at the Potramarai Kulam (the Golden Lotus Tank), surrounded by pillared corridors. Finally, we exit via the North Gopura and are very fortunate to see the chariot with an image of Shiva bring transported to join his consort in another part of the temple, a nightly ritual

    Then it's back to the hotel for a late meal.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    En route to Kerala; Fruit bats in a Banyan Tree
    Modern Hindu Durga Temple; the man is wearing modern clothingBrick manufacture, first stage; raw materials, shape, leave for one weekBrick manufacture, second and third stages; dry for one week / smoke in kiln for one weekApproaching the Western Ghat Hills, the border between Tamil Nadu and KeralaThekkady Spice Plantation; Pepper / Thalasseri Pepper / Picking PepperNutmeg / Nutmeg and Nut Mace on its surfaceCinnamon / Clove / Allspice / JackfruitCardamom PlantationLord's Flavours Spice Shop; selling the spices we saw on our tourBar-B-Que Thekkady Cookery Class; our hosts homeGrating coconutPreparing the foodPreparing Paratha flatbread1Serving a freshly cooked poppadomThe meal / The beers!

    Kerala; Thekkady

    January 30 in India ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We set off early for Thekkady so that we can stop off at some interesting places en route (see captions on photos for details).

    There are good views as we near the Western Ghats that separate Tamil Nadu and Kerala. It is a steep ascent to the top, where we cross into Kerala; surprisingly, the minibus has to stop for paperwork checks.

    Kerala is known for its coconut groves, paddy fields, hills, backwaters, and rainforests; the religions of Hindu, Christianity, and Islam are all practiced here. It is a very political state and has the highest literacy rate in India.

    At Thekkady, we visit a spice plantation; the tour is very informative and interesting. India is the world's largest exporter and consumer of spices, and the soil composition in Kerala is ideal for cardamom, cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon.

    After checking in at the hotel, we go to a house (Bar-B-Que) for an Indian food cookery class. It is a lovely evening, and we prepare and eat;
    Beans Thoran / Pineapple Curry / Alumni Masala / Fish Curry / BBQ Masala (chicken) / Okra Roast / Paratha.

    It was an amazing meal and experience.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    En route to Alappuzha; Pattumalay - tea plantation / tea flower and tea plant bean
    Pattumalay; tea plantationPattumalay; ChurchView from road en routeAlappuzha; houseboats / View along the waterway of the Kerala BackwatersView along the waterway of the Kerala BackwatersView along the waterway of the Kerala BackwatersA colourful house along the waterwayLake VembanadWaterway on the other side of the lakeWaterway on the other side of the lakeView of a church along the waterwayView back to Lake VembanadViews along the waterway back to AlappuzhaAlappuzha; banana chip vendorLunch / DinnerAfter a night on the houseboat, views on the way back to Alappuzha "harbour"Alappuzha "harbour" / Our Gold River HouseboatViews up and down a small canalOn the bridge over the canal

    Kerala Backwaters Tour from Alappuzha

    January 31 in India ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We set off after breakfast from Thekkady and stop off at a tea plantation in Pattumaly on our way to the town of Alappuzha (aka Alleppey) in the Kerala Backwaters; we are going to an area of low-lying waterways, lagoons, and rivers running parallel to the Arabian Sea.

    We board our Gold River Houseboat, a converted rice barge, just after 1pm and head via waterways to Vembanad Lake; we cross the bottom most tip of this to the other side and circle round more waterways and then double back the other end of the long, narrow Vembanad Lake is at Kochi). We catch glimpses of the local lifestyle, seeing houses that back directly onto the waterways.

    We moor at about 6 pm, and then have a short walk locally, visiting a banana chip manufacturer and a coconut milk supplier. We return to the houseboats (there are two for the group) and eat together on the larger one, enjoying a splendid meal. There has been a lot of sitting around today, which is very tiring, but it's been another good one.

    During and after breakfast on the houseboat, we do another short trip back to the Alappuzha "harbour", visit a tourist shop, and have a short walk before travelling to Kochi.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    En route to Kochi; Hindu Temple Festival
    Hindu Temple Festival; Devotee / A child's first taste of solid foodLighthouse / First glimpse of the Arabian Sea (behind the beach)Chellanam; More glimpses of the Arabian SeaFishermen repairing netsChurch designed to look like a boatMap of Kochi, showing Fort Kochi and Mattancherry, Willingdon Island, ErnakulamFort Kochi; David Hall Contemporary Art Gallery and Cafe / Jimi Hendrix paintingsCochin Club / Old Dutch BuildingDoby Khana; used for the original Fort Kochi staff, it is still used todaySt Francis ChurchThe Tomb of Vaco da Gamba, a Portuguese ExplorerCannon Ball Tree on the roadside; Trunk with fruit growing out / flower / lizardChinese Fishing Nets; introduced by Chinese explorers, a Kochi symbolHauling the net upFish Market on the promenadeOld Harbour Hotel;a 300 year old Dutch Mansion, the first hotel of Old CochinSanta Cruz CathedralJail Museum (aka Jail of Freedom Struggle); it was used to confine Indian Freedom Fighters

    Kochi 1; Fort Kochi

    February 1 in India ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After the short walk in Alappuzha, we set off in the minibus for Kochi, stopping off to see some of a festival at a small Hindu Temple en route. Later, we stop again to visit Chellanham, a fishing village and suburb of Kerala; it is interesting to see their colourful fishing nets being repaired and the quirky church in the form of a fishing boat.

    We reach Kochi (formerly Cochin); the city is built around a saltwater lagoon of the Arabian Sea and is actually a collection of narrow islands and peninsulars. It has a beautiful natural harbour and was originally founded on trade from the Jewish and Arabian Spice Traders in the 1st century. It grew in importance in the 16th century with the arrival of the Portuguese, then Dutch,and then English; it has an eclectic heritage.

    Kochi City is divided into 3 main regions; Fort Kochi, Mattancherry (both have old-world charm, with a blend of Dutch, Portuguese, and English buildings and form the Old Town), and the modern Ernakulam (shopping malls and glitzy apartment buildings). We focus on the first two, apparently!

    This afternoon, we visit Fort Kochi; we enjoy lunch at the Fort Paragon restaurant before exploring the area with our guide - see captions on photos for details. Of particular interest is the Chinese style of fishing; they are fixed installations operated from on or near the shore, with nets set up on bamboo and teak poles and held horizontally by huge mechanisms, which lower them into the sea.

    Our hotel is on Willington Island, a man-made island using soil dredged from the long Vembanad Lake (the other end is Alappuzha, see previous post - Vembanad Lake is the longest in India); it is home for the port of Kochi and the Naval Base, as well as many other port related trusts. After some downtime, Helen and I pop into the Maruthi Vilas Vegetarian restaurant near the hotel.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    Mattancherry Palace, aka The Dutch Palace
    MuralMuralMuralViews into the courtyardIn the Durbar Rooms; Ivory Palanquin CarrierOne of the Sultans of KeralaWall paintingView of roomView from window of a small Church, small Synagogue, and small Hindu TempleMattancherry Jewish QuarterHandicraft shop frontClothes shopSpice shopParadesi Jewish SynagogueThe Brass PulpitHand painted Chinese tiles on the floor; all the rows are subtly differentGinger House Restaurant; way in and gardenView inside the restaurant

    Kochi 2; Mattancherry

    February 2 in India ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Mattancherry forms the other part of Kochi Old Town and contains both the Mattancherry Palace and the Jewish Quarter.

    Mattancherry Palace is a colonial gem and was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century and given to the ruler of Cochin as a gesture of goodwill. It later underwent extensive renovation by the Dutch and became known as the Dutch Palace. The two storied, quadrilateral structure is built around a courtyard and is today a museum with murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana and other legends. In the so-called Dunbar Rooms, hang portraits of the Kerala rulers. An interesting visit.

    We walk up the road to the Jewish Quarter; it is home to many antique warehouses and spice rooms, which we see on our way to the Paradesi Synagogue, India's oldest active Synagogue The first Jews in India settled in the 1st century at Shingly, but persecution by the Portuguese in the 16th century made them move to Cochin, dividing into two groups, the Malabari Jews (black, descended from the original settlers) and the Paradesim Jews (white, who came from the Middle East). In 1940, there were 2,400 Jews here, but now only a few families remain. The Paradesi Synagogue has a tiled roof and a Clock Tower and was rebuilt with Dutch help in 1664 - there are many treasures here.

    Afterwards, we go to the interesting Ginger House Restaurant for lunch.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    Kathikali; Make-up application - the paper frill defines the jaw line
    Lalitha (really the demon Nakrathundi)JaynathanNakrathundi (in demon form with hair down and fangs out)The vocalistThe drummersScenes from the dramaScenes from the dramaThe final sceneHarbour area boat trip; Willingdon IslandDragon boat festival on Bolghatty IslandChinese Fishing Net off Bolghatty IslandChurch Festival on Bolghatty IslandChurch Festival on Bolghatty IslandViews of ErnakulamChinese Fishing Nets at dusk; Vulpeen Island / Willingdon Island

    Kochi 3; Kathakali dance / Boat trip

    February 2 in India ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Some of the group go to the optional Khatakali dance performance, a "story-play" that is said to be the very essence of Kochi; the concept is almost 400 years old, and melds dance, drama and music (both vocal and instrumental). We will see only a short extract, as the real thing goes on all day!

    The actor dancers are all male; there is no speaking, just symbolic hand gestures, eye movements, and face movements. Music is supplied by a vocalist marking the beat with a chengi (small gong) and rwo percussionists with drums.

    Our show comprised watching make-up being applied in part (this can be a 3 hour process, as heavily empasised features are created).

    We see a short extract from the Narakasura Vadhan in which Nakrathundi, the demon sister of the demon Narakasura, reaches heaven to kidnap beautiful women for her brother. Unfortunately, she falls in love with Jaynatan (green face) there and disguises herself as Lalitha (yellow face). Lalitha flirts with Jaynathan but is rejected, so she reverts to Nakrathundi (fangs, different hair) to battle with him; she loses, and he cuts off her breasts, nose and ears.

    The half-hour performance was really good with excellent singing and drumming; the facial expressions and eye movements were amazing to see.

    Later, we all set off on a boat trip at 4:30 pm from Fort Kochi to see the harbour area and some of the surrounding islands; this was really good and pleasant after a hot day (see captions on photos for details); we are very fortunate and see some interesting things.

    Then it's dinner! A full day.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    A stop-off for chai en route near Jojan's home town
    Palakkad Fort; Outside, by the moatEntrance Gate / Also used to exitTempleView from the BastionPillars / WellOld treeView from the BastionDisused barrack buildingsDancers posing for usA young woman who has just got engagedThe tour group with the newly engaged coupleCoimbatore (Tamil Nadu); on the way to the marketMarket areaIn the marketIn the marketMarket sceneHindu TempleHindu Temple

    Palakkad Fort / Tamil Nadu; Coimbatore

    February 3 in India ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We leave Kochi and head north, eventually taking a tunnel through the Western Ghats; this mountain range stretches 1,600 km along the western coast of India from Kerala to Gujarat.

    We reach the town of Palakkad and visit Palakkad Fort; this was built in the 18th century from granite and is one of the best preserved forts in Kerala.

    We carry on into Tamil Nadu towards Combiatore, the third largest city in the state, and a convenient base or stop-off for visiting the Nilgiri Hills (where we go tomorrow). We have a short tour of the market area before heading off to our hotel.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    Nilgiri Mountain Railway; Coonoor Station Entrance
    Coonoor StationTrain exhibit"All aboard!"View of CoonoorThe trainViews en route to OotyView en route to OotyTea PlantationLocal ChurchLovedale Station; a 5 minute breakView en routeOoty Lake, also called Ooty Boathouse, was man-made by the British in 1824Ooty stationNilgiri Mountain Railway History; zoom in on the textLeaving Ooty Station

    Nilgiri Hills; Coonoor to Ooty by train

    February 4 in India ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We leave the hotel early (7:15am) to travel to Coonoor in the Nilgiri Hills. It is a spectacular drive, with many sharp hairpin turns, as we ascend the Western Ghats towards Coonoor (1,700m). Coonoor is a hill station known for its tea estates and coffee plantations.

    From Coonoor, we take the Nilgiri Mountain Railway to Ooty (another hill station); it was built by the British in the 19th century to negotiate the difficult mountain terrain and dense green forest between the two hill stations (the original train line from Mettupalayam ended at Coonoor). There are many fabulous views as we take this scenic journey to Ooty, rising from 1,700m to 2,200m above sea level and a travelling distance of 12 miles (see captions on photos for details).

    We get off at Ooty (see next post).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    Statue of Ranjiv Gandi outside Ooty station
    Charring Cross, a major road intersection in Ooty; the Adams Fountain is a public display fountainStreet sceneSt Stephen's ChurchTibetan MarketEntrance Gate to the Government Botanical GardensA welcoming statue insideThe Heritage BuildingsThe Explore Travel GroupThe JJ Pillar pillar was erected to mark the centenary year of the annual flower show in 1995The Italian GardenThe Italian GardenThe Italian Garden from the other endFlower arrangementFlower arrangement; a map of India and Sri LankaTopiary in the shape of a peacockLarge CactusPlant sculptureIn the Greenhouse

    Ooty (short for Udhagamandalam)

    February 4 in India ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We walk into Ooty from the railway station. Ooty was known as the Queen of the Hill Stations and as "Snooty Ooty" because officials from the British East India Company came to rule from here in the 18th century to escape the lowland heat.

    We have a walk round, but the main focus is to visit the Government Botanical Gardens, occupying 64 hectares in a terraced layout on the lower slopes of the Doddabetta peak; they are extremely attractive; see captions on photos for details.

    We leave Ooty and drive towards Bandipur National Park (in the state of Karnataka) via the Mudumalai National Park (still in Tamil Nadu); the two parks border one another via the same forest and the two states are separated by a bridge over a small river. We do see some wild animals en route.

    We check into our lodge style accommodation near Mangala village in the Bandipur National Park and watch Sir David Attenborough's "Wild Karnataka" natual history programme (2019) before a late buffet meal.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    Morning Safari; Indian Elephant
    Spotted DeerMongoosePeacockPainted Stork1Bengal TigerA short walk to a local community near Mangala; water towerTypical housesLocal villagersLocal villagersLocal villagerMen working in the fields / View of fieldsAfternoon Safari; Indian ElephantsLong-tailed Langur MonkeyTurtleIndian GaurMorning nature walk; viewsTiger footprint / Leopard scat

    Karnataka; Bandipur Tiger Reserve

    February 5 in India ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Bandipur National Park is also known as Bandipur Tiger Reserve (a special name to reflect this status, as there are tigers here) and the area was once the hunting ground of the Maharajahs of Mysuru (now Mysore); it became known as the Venugopala Wildlife Park in the 1930s and became part of the Tiger Project in 1983. It has an area of 874 sq km.

    We leave our accommodation in the park at 5:40 am to be in time to transfer to the Forest Safari Transport outside the park for the dawn safari back in the park!. We travel offf piste see some wonderful animals, including the Indian Elephant and, very fortunately, a Bengal Tiger!! Others included Spotted Deer, Peacock, Mongoose, Painted Stork.

    Then it's back for a late breakfast. Helen and I have a walk up to see a small local community close to the accommodation and en route to Mangala Village before it gets too hot. Then, it's back for RnR, followed by lunch.

    Later in the afternoon, we leave at 4 pm for the afternoon safari. We see more Indian Elephants, as well as Spotted Deer, Langur Monkeys, Turtle. An animal we saw yesterday, but not today, was the Indian Gaur. A short while after we get back, it's dinner.

    In the morning, before breakfast, we go on a local nature walk close to the accommodation led by a guide; it is a great way to start the day, and surprisingly chilly at the start (7:15 am).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    Dufferin Clock Tower; named after Lord Dufferin, the Viceroy of India, 1884 to 1888
    Deveraja MarketInside the marketThe banana sectionThe banana sectionThe flower sectionView on road behind Deveraja MarketOutside Deveraja MarketOutside Deveraja MarketTrinesvaraswamy Temple, near Deveraja MarketKrishnaraja Circle; the centre of MysoreAnother Road MonumentMysore Palace; before the start of the Light and Sound ShowDuring the showDuring the showMysore Palace; the end of the Light and Sound ShowMysore Palace; the end of the Light and Sound ShowThe Explore Travel Group

    Mysore 1; Centre / Mysuru Palace (night)

    February 6 in India ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Mysore is known as the City of Palaces and is the cultural capital of Karnataka; situated at the foothills of Chamundi, it was the centre of the Kingdom of Mysore from 1399 to 1947. It is now the second most populated city in Karnataka (1.3 million).

    We arrive in Mysore (Mysuru) soon after midday and visit the Deveraja Market: the Dufferin Clock Tower stands in the square outside the market's entrance. The market was constructed above the Dewan Poirnaiala Canal that supplied water to the Mysore Palace; it is bounded by walls on all four sides and has three main aisles within. There are many fruit, vegetable, flower, and spice stalls, both inside the covered market and outside. We see these and walk around the surrounding area.

    In the evening, we visit Mysuru Palace to attend the Sound and Light Show, depicting and describing the 400-year history of Mysuru City and Mysuru Palace (we visit the Palace properly tomorrow). The buildings are illuminated in coordination with the sounds and music, and there is a lovely light show at the end.

    A full day.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    Mahishasura, the Demon King, slayed by the Goddess Durga
    The steps to Chamundeshawi TempleOfferings for the TempleChamundeshwari Temple, dedicated to the Goddess DurgaThe festival outside; the musiciansThe festival outside; the procession with Durga in the seat of the chariot pulled by a lionMain entrance (from inside palace grounds) / Front of palaceMysore Palace; side viewSide entranceInside the Palace; Elephant Gate, the main access to the interiorPublic Durbar HallPaintings in the Public Durga HallPortraits in the Public Durga HallThrone room / detail of wooden carvingUpstairs seating gallery; columns / ceilingView out to the main entranceTeak door with ivory inlays / detailThe Private Durbar Hall

    Mysore 2; Chamundi Hill / Mysuru Palace

    February 7 in India ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We drive 13 km to the eastern outskirts of Mysore to the Chamundi Hill; at the top of the 335m high hill is the Hindu Chamundeshwari Temple dedicated to the Goddess Chamundeshwari (Durga), the patron Saint of the people and kings of Mysuru - she slayed the Demon King Mahishasura, the ruler of the hill.

    The hill can be accessed by a 1,000 step ascent, but this is done by devotees only who pat each step with a mix of red and yellow spices . We drive to the top and do a few only! We see the Temple (only Hindus can go inside) and are fortunate to see part of a festival as it leaves the Temple (good planning by our guide, Jojan).

    Later on, we return to the Mysuru Palace, also known as the Amba Vilas Palace, to see it in the daylight (there are seven palaces in Mysore); it was originally built and rebuilt (it was wooden) by the Wodeyars Dynasty, inside an old fort, but kept burning down - the current structure was constructed between 1897 and 1912 and designed by Henry Irving with a mix of architectural styles, after the Old Palace burnt down. It is the second most visited tourist attraction in India, after the Taj Mahal.

    We go in and follow the route through the downstairs interior, including the beautiful Pulblic Durbar Hall, and up to the seating gallery and the Private Durbar Hall. It is magnificent, with exquisite carvings and works of art from all over the world.

    We have some downtime in the hotel lobby before going to dinner. Then it's all aboard the Mysore to Chennai overnight train.....    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsSouthern IndiaTraveler
    Panch Rathas; Draupad Ratha / Arjuna Ratha / Bhima Ratha / Nakul Sahdeva Ratha
    Draupad Ratha (built in the style of a thatched tribal shrine); a Durga Panel inside itPanch Rathas, viewed from the other end - Bhima Ratha / Dharmaraja RathaBhima Ratha; front / rearDharmaraja Ratha; an imposing three storey RathaDharmaraja Ratha; carved niche figuresNandi, carved out of a single rock, faces the Arjuna RathaStanding Lion / Standing ElephantThe Shore Temple; dedicated to VishnuView showing two Nandi bull statuesPeople at the Shore Temple / View of Mamallapuram from the Shore TempleArjuna's Penance; aka The Descent of the GangesSculpted relief at the sidePanch Pandava Cave Temple; unfinishedKrishna's Butter Ball; a natural boulder perched precariously on a slopeTrimurti Cave Temple; dedicated to three Gods - Shiva, Vishnu, SomaskandaSculpture showing elephants, monkey, and peacock / School group having lunchView of the Shore Temple from Mamallapuram / View of the shore from Santana RestaurantFinall group photo, including Jojan (in the centre)

    Tamil Nadu; Mahabalipuram

    February 8 in India ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Our train arrives in Chennai at 6:45 am, having left Mysore at 8 pm yesterday evening; it stopped at many places, including Bangalore. It was a second-class sleeper and a long night. From Chennai, we travel south along the shores to Mahabalipuram on the Bay of Bengal, stopping off for a well-deserved dosa breakfast.

    Mahabalipuram, also known as Mamallapuram, was once a major port built in the 7th century by Mamalla, a Pallavas king; it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to masterful rock carvings from that time - these still exist today. The area is a boulder strewn landscape, and these were used for the rock carvings

    We visit Panch Rathas (Five Rathas - a Ratha is a processional chariot), a 7th century complex of monolithic rock shrines to honour the five Pandara brothers (see captions on photos for details).

    Next, we visit the Shore Temple; dedicated to Vishnu. It was built by Mamalla on a promontory by the sea; it used to be accessed by the beach, but the 2004 tsunami led to the building of walkway access. There is also a smaller shrine dedicated to Shiva that was added later.

    We then go to Arjuna's Penance, aka The Descent of the Ganges, a celebrated bas-relief carved on an immense rock with a natural vertical cleft symbolising the River Ganges; the story depicts the Sacerd River's descent from the sky, made possible by the penance of the sage Arjuna (Bhagirata).

    There are other smaller temples, monuments, and cave-temples in the area around Arjuna's Penance, and we walk around to see these.

    Later on in the evening, we walk down into Mahabalipuram to the Santana Fish Restaurant by the beach for our farewell dinner. Helen and I shared a fish curry, grilled fish with French fries, and washed it down with some British Empire beer.

    It's been a fantastic trip.    Read more

    Trip end
    February 9, 2025
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