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  • Andrew's Travels

Northumberland

Visiting tbe county and walking part of the Northumberland Coast Path. Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 11, 2021
    Andrew's TravelsNorthumberlandTraveler
    Howick Hall / Long Heugh
    View from footbridge over Howick Burn / view back from coastal pathSea fishermen near to Sea Houses Farm1The Bathing HouseView to Craster and beyond

    Howick Burn to Craster

    September 11, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We are in Northumberland and staying in Craster, which is on the coast. The Northumberland Coastline in an AONB (area of outstanding natural beauty) and one of our plans is to walk part of the coastal path (aka St Oswald's Way).

    We walk from Craster on a footpath heading inland via Craster South Farm and the outskirts of Howick Hall, the home of the Earls Grey (as in tea). From here it is down to Howick Burn, where it enters the North Sea, and a walk along the attractive route passing Sea Houses Farm and The Bathing House; this was built in the early 19th century by the 2nd Earl Grey who was the Prime Minister responsible for the passing of the Great Reform Bill of 1832. There are many more fine views as well back to Craster, including the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle in the distance.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorthumberlandTraveler
    Gateway at Craster Tower / The Jolly Fisherman
    The home of Craster KippersCraster HarbourCraster HarbourAlong the shore / View back to CrasterView ahead to the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle

    Craster

    September 11, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The drive from the main town of Alnwick to Craster takes you through the Gateway close to Craster Tower; this is an 18th-century Georgian Mansion where the rooms can be booked as holiday accommodation. Craster itself is a small fishing village with one pub, The Jollty Fisherman, and a small harbour; it is very famous for its kippers (smoked herring) and there is one smokehouse remaining - that of L. Robson and Sons.

    Crasyer is very picturesque and a lovely place to stay for a week. The ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle beckon further along the rocky shore as you leave the harbour.....    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorthumberlandTraveler
    Classic view of Dunstanburgh Castle
    The GatehouseViews from the top of the fortificationEgyncleugh Tower / Lilburn TowerPill box and castleView back to the castle

    Dunstanbourgh Castle

    September 12, 2021 in England ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Dunstanburgh Castle is a 1.3 mile walk along the coast from Craster; the village is the nearest access point.

    It was built in the early 14th century by Earl Thomas of Lancaster; the castle was intended both as a refuge and a statement of power, since the Earl was opposed to the Crown. Subsequently, Dunstanburgh's defences were expanded in the 1380s by John of Gaunt in the light of the threat from Scotland and the peasant uprisings of 1381. It is now owned by the National Trust and run by English Heritage; we are members and go in to explore (see pictures and captions).

    The castle was used as an observation post against invasion during WWII and we see some of the pill boxes as we leave and walk along the rocky shore towards Embleton Bay; once again, there are beautiul views as we look back.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorthumberlandTraveler
    Embleton Bay
    Embleton Church / View on the way downView back from Embleton BayFormer Coastguard StationView out to sea from Low NewtonLow Newton's village square / The Ship Inn

    Low Newton by-the-Sea

    September 12, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    As we leave Dunstanburgh Castle, the rocky shore eventually changes to sand; we have reached Embleton Bay. There is a golf course on our left as we walk along the beach; we turn off at the club house to walk a half mile uphill to the village of Embleton and the local shop. It is pretty here and we visit the Church of the Holy Trinity before heading back to the bay; en route we have a lovely, different view of the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle - quite different to that from further along the bay.

    We cross Embleton Mouth, where the burn enters the North Sea, and walk along the sand to Low Newton by-the-Sea. In the distance on top of a hill is the former Coastguard Station; it is now a National Trust holiday cottage. There are good views out to the sea from the beach.

    Low Newton has a strong fishing heritage which is charterised by its picturesque three sided village square; the cottages were built in the 19th century for local fishermen. There is a nice looking pub here - The Ship Inn.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorthumberlandTraveler
    St Aidan's Church / View of castle from village
    1Bamburgh CastleView from the beachOn the beachBamburgh Castle from Harkass RocksLindisfarne Castle from Harkass Rocks

    Bamburgh

    September 13, 2021 in England ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We drive to Bamburgh via the coastal road on our way to Lindisfarne and stop for a visit.

    Walking into the village we see St Aidan's Church and have our first real view towards Bamburgh Castle - Bamburgh is all about its castle. We cross lawns, where local people are playing croquet, and head towards the beach.

    We walk along the beach past the castle and double back to the Harkass Rocks where there are lovely views in all directions - including that of our next destination.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorthumberlandTraveler
    Sculptures of St Aidan and St Cuthbert
    Lindisfarne PrioryLindisfarne Priory / Church of St Mary the VirginLindisfarne Castle / The Castle and its lime kinsView from Castle Point / On the beachView of the castle from hehind, in the Gertrude Jekyll Garden

    Holy Island of Lindisfarne

    September 13, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The small island of Lindisfarne is only accessible by crossing a tidal causeway, so timing and planning is important. We park at the huge parking site and walk into the village to visit Lindisfarne Priory (English Heritage).

    Founded over 1400 years ago by an Irish monk called Aidan, the monastery became a bishopric in the Northumbrian Kingdom and converted to the religous practises of Rome under another monk, Cuthbert - both are now Saints. The isolated monastery fell prey to the Vikings and was eventually re-established as a richly decorated priory in the 12th century and it is the ruins of these that still remain.

    We walk to the castle next, passing the small harbour; it is a 16th-century fortification built on the highest point of the island - it was eventually converted into a "family home" by Sir Edwin Lutyens in 1901, with disused boats upturned and used as sheds. Lime kilns were built next to the castle on Castle Point in 1860 and used for 40 years until that industry declined.

    We explore the beach and walk back to the village via the small Gertrude Keller flower gardens, which she designed in 1911 using an existing walled structure. It's been another great day out.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorthumberlandTraveler
    Bondgate Tower, aka Hotspur Tower
    Around the market squarePottergate Tower / Harry Hotspur statueWater trough / Lion Arch - main entrance to Alnwick CastleAlnwick CastleAlnwick Castle and River Aln / Lion Bridge

    Alnwick

    September 14, 2021 in England ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today we visit Alnwick; once a village, Alnwick was eventually acquired by the Percy family, the Dukes of Northumberland, who built and expanded Alnwick Castle. The other family residence was Warkworth Castle (see future FP entry).

    Now a peaceful and thriving market town, Alnwick is accessed at the southern end by one of the original gates, the 15th century Hotspur Tower. There are many old buildings and monuments as we pass through to the market square. At the the northern end of town is Pottergate Tower and a modern statue celebrating Alnwick's famous son, Harry Hotspur (Sir Henry Percy, a 14th century knight who fought against the Scots and the French).

    Alnwick Castle is still owned by the current Duke of Northumberland and has featured in the Harry Potter films as Hogwarts. The lion is the family symbol of the Percy family and is featured on the main entrance to the castle and on bridge crossing the River Aln.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorthumberlandTraveler
    Grand Cascade; looking up / looking down it
    Ornamental GardenIn the Ornamental GardenBamboo Labyrinth / Water Sculpture in the Serpent GardenPoison Garden / Roots and Shoots GardenThe Treehouse

    The Alnwick Garden

    September 14, 2021 in England ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The site was derelict 10 years ago, but the Alnwick Garden today is one of the world’s most ambitious new gardens; its construction was the vision of The Duchess of Northumberland as a public garden for families to enjoy.

    We see the Grand Cascade, have a guided tour of the Poison Garden (for obvious reasons, you must be accompanied) and wander through the Cherry Orchard up to the magnificent Ornamental Garden. On the way back down, we wander through the Rose Garden, go through the dark maze that is the Bamboo Labyrinth and see the excellent water sculptures in the Serpent Garden. The features in the Roots and Shoots Garden are the result of collaborations with local schools and the NHS. On the way out, we pass The Trehouse; this is the largest wooden treehouse in the world: and built around 16 mature lime trees, which grow through and into the building, and is a restaurant with rooms linked by rope bridges (it is closed at present).

    The Alnwick Garden is a thoroughly recommended visit!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorthumberlandTraveler
    View of Amble Dunes / Coquet Island lighthouse
    Amble South Jetty / Amble Harbour VillageSundial in the town square / St Cuthbert's ChurchWarkworth Harbour/ Amble marinaAmble marinaWarkworth Castle from The Braid, near Amble

    Amble

    September 15, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Amble is a town on the Northumberland Coast Path at the mouth of the River Coquet. We start our walk on the coast path close to the sand dunes near a small nature reserve. There are good views of Coquet Island from the path here; this has a lighthouse built on the remains of a medieval monastery. We pass the recently renovated Cliff House and walk via the South Jetty to the Town.

    We walk via the twee Harbour Village with its food stalls and gift shops on our way to the town square. Here , there is a large sundial (2001) in front of the large war memorial; the main street and St Cuthbert's Church are behind it. We follow the coast path via Warkworth Harbour and have great views of the boats in the marina. As the coast path heads towards the river across The Braid, there are excellent views of Warkworth Castle further upstream. The coast path is alongside the A1068 as it heads up to the next village - Warkworth.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorthumberlandTraveler
    Warkworth bridge and its defensive tower / St Lawrence's Church
    General view from outside / Castle GatehouseCastle enclosure and keep / View of enclosure from the keepViews from the castle keep; Village / River CoquetLittle Stair Tower and Lion TowerDetail of heraldry on Lion Tower

    Warkworth

    September 15, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Warkworth village and its castle are situated in the neck of a tight loop in the River Coquet about 1 mile from the coast. The village was originally reached via an ancient bridge of two arches with a fortified gateway that crosses the river; we walk over this and visit the Church of St Lawrence, which dates from Norman times, before walking around the village.

    Warkworth Castle took shape during the 13th century, but gained glory during the Middle Ages when the Percy family - the Dukes of Northumberland who also owned Alnwick Castle - took it over. We cross the moat (empty) and enter via the impressive Gatehouse to see the large enclosure; the huge keep, with its tall and distinctive Great Tower, is directly ahead and we explore the many rooms here (we enjoy excellent views of the village and River Coquet estuary from the first floor). The enclosure / courtyard had state rooms added to it which were accessed via the Lion Tower; this still has the Percy heraldry on it. A church was built here also, but little remains of this.

     Outside, the castle has a hermitage associated with it; this is a short and pleasant walk down the River and on the opposite side, but it was unfortunately closed.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorthumberlandTraveler
    Duchess Bridge / View from estuary
    Harbour viewsGardens of the Friary of St FrancisAlnmouth Bay from Bracken HillOn the beachMarden Rocks / Seaton Point

    Alnmouth

    September 16, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Alnmouth is located at the mouth of the River Aln about 4 miles south east of Alnwick. Originally a small port supporting fishing and trade, Alnmouth is now a well conserved and picturesque coastal resort; this was partly the result of a violent storm in 1806 that changed the course of the river.

    We start at the Grade II listed stone Duchess Bridge and follow the estuary past the harbour and round to Alnmouth Bay. Walking up Northumberland Street, at the end we note the gardens for the Friary of St Francis are open and visit them. We walk up Bracken Hill and have great views of Alnmouth Bay. We then follow the Northumberland coastal path and walk along the beach to Marden Rocks, with the links of Alnmouth golf course on our left, up to Foxton Hall - now the club house - as far as Seaton. It has been a good visit, and we can recommend Alnmouth to potential visitors.    Read more

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