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Patagonia Adventures

november - desember 2023
  • Andrew's Travels
Travelling from Santiago (Chile) down through Patagonia to Ushuaia and back up to Buenos Aires (both in Argentina) on an Oasis Overland trip. Les mer
  • Andrew's Travels

Liste over land

  • Argentina Argentina
  • Chile Chile
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Camping, Gruppereise, Villmark
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  • Andrew's TravelsReisendePatagonia Adventures
    En route: view of the Andes
    En route; views of scrublandEn route; more viewsBar MaderoFutaleufu; the river next to our campsiteFutaleufu; Plazade Armas, the town centre / Local churchFutaleufu; small lake on edge of town / Walk; Lago La PazWalk; viewsWe made a friend....Futaleufu at 5:30pm

    Futaleufu; en route, town and walk

    16. november 2023, Chile ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    We set off from the campsite soon after 8 am. for the 360km journey south through Argentina to Futaleufu; this is in Chile, and the border crossing is close to it.

    There are views of the Andes and flatter scrubland as we drive. After a while, we divert through part of the so-called Welsh area, where there are small flags in some gardens. The border crossing was slowish, but we were back in Chile at about 6 pm.

    It's pouring with rain, and rather than camp, the group can have a sleepover in the quinta, the log cabin on the site, but several people choose a hostel alternative. Then it's into the small town of Futaleufu; we get a lift to Bar Madero - beers and a Mechada Madero sandwich beckon. Back later , and it rains hard all night. Apparently, the weather in this area is unusual for this time of year, as it's going to rain for the next 5 days....

    The river is too high for white water rafting (this is one of the top 3 places in the world for this). Ant and I wander into the small town of Futaleufu to see it and then set off on a local walk. According to Ant's digital watch, we walked 10.5 miles today (most of it in the rain).    Les mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsReisendePatagonia Adventures
    Heading south from Futaleufu
    Heading south from FutaleufuHeading south on the Carretra AustralQuelat National ParkQuelat National ParkLunch stop on the Carretera AustralGetting close to CoyhaiqueA famous Coyhaique landmarkCoyhaiqueCoyhaique, Plaza de Armas

    Carretera Austral; Coyhaique

    18. november 2023, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    After two nights in the log cabin on the campsite at Futaleufu, we leave just after 6 am. for the long journey south to El Chalten and Los Glaciares NP, back in Argentina. The roads are slow and bumpy as we journey south through the Chilean part of Patagonia. There are good views, despite the rain. Then the road improves as we join Carretera Austral, a major Chilean road, and we can make some progress.

    Later on, it's high, slow roads along the valley, and rather misty. Then we see snow on the trees around us as we pass through the Quelat National Park. We enjoy a quick truck lunch (bread, cheese, ham, tomato, cucumber) at a stop on the Carretra Austral and continue south. It starts to get flatter around the Andes foothills. It's all about the scenery in Patagonia; rivers, cliffs, mountains, waterfalls - it's very beautiful.

    We arrive in Coyhaique, and the sun is shining as we arrive at our campsite. Then, a quick exploration of the town as we seek out food and beer.    Les mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsReisendePatagonia Adventures
    Views leaving Coyhaique
    Carretera AustralRio IbanezEl ProgressoVilla Cerro Castillo areaLago General CarreraPuerto Rio TranquiloLeaving Puerto Rio TranquiloThe south shore of Lago General Carrera towards Chile ChicoBush camp; food prep / fireside

    Carretera Austral / Lago General Carrera

    19. november 2023, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    We leave Coyhaique for Carretera Austral south again; ideally, we'll cross the border and bush camp in Argentina; if not, it will be in Chile. The flat area gives way to valleys along the mountains.

    It is beautiful as we drive along the Rio Ibanez and El Progresso areas to the Villa Cerrro Castillo area, where there are many mountain peaks, and then it's back down to the valley bottom and due south.

    The Carretra Austral crosses over the Lago General Carrera at the town of Puerto Rio Tranquilo; it is a stunning area, popular with hikers.

    We then travel along the southern shore of Lago General Carrera to head east towards Chile Chico. At times, it's like driving along the side of a coastal cliff.

    This journey today has been exceptional, showing the beauty of Patagonia; my photos can't do it justice.

    After a couple of reccies, Kevin and Claire opt to bush camp by the road west of Chile Chico. It's raining, but tents are put up, and a meal of frankfurters, instant mash, and a vegetarian concoction are prepared; it was all really good. An early night follows...    Les mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsReisendePatagonia Adventures
    Last night's bush camp site / Mirador Laguna Verde
    Lago Buenos AiresScrubland becomes steppe as we head southPassing through Parque Patagonia, a former sheep ranchRio Pinturas GorgeCueva de las Manos; paintings on the alerosCueva de las Manos; paintings on the alerosCueva de las Manos; the cave entrance / paintings on the aleros1Cueva de las Manos; paintings on the alerosRio Pinturas Gorge; end of the walkway / view of the other side

    Lago Buenos Aires / Cueva de las Manos

    20. november 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    At 1 am, the wind was phenomenal, and I was scared the tent would blow away! It held firm, but it was quite an experience. Then it poured down!

    Tents down at 6 am, and by 7:15, we are off. We stop to enjoy the view of Laguna Verde and then drive through the small town of Chile Chico and arrive at the first of the border crossings by 8:30; we are in the Santa Cruz region of Argentina at 11 am.

    There is flat scrubland by Lago Buenos Aires - as it is known this side of the border - and beyond as we travel east on good roadls, eventually turning south; it's extremely windy, but the sun is shining. The truck lunch was by a sheltered culvert underneath the road to get out of the wind. It's back to scrubland after and then steppe passing through part of the Parque Patagonia.

    We divert to drive to the gorge of the Pinturas River, to visit the Cueva de las Manos Cave, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; hunter gatherers lived in the caves here over 9,000 years ago, and the guanaco that lived on the steppes were their main source of food.

    We take an obligatory guided tour along a walkway to see the aleros, rocky overhangs en route to the cave itself; there are pre-Colombian paintings of hands (mainly left), guanacos, other animals and hunting scenes formed by chewing and spraying a mixture of gypsum, minerals, etc. from the mouth using hands, etc, as stencils on these aleros. The colours varied over the millenia; a very interesting place.

    Then it's back to the main road and south to find a bush camp site. It's steppe land all the way, and I see two small groups of guanaco as well as a rhea on the journey.

     In the event, we stayed in a hostel / hotel in Bajo Caracoles; bed, shower, food, beer - not in that order.    Les mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsReisendePatagonia Adventures
    Typical views en route to Gobernador Gregores
    View several hours laterTurquoise coloured Lago CardielAn odd shaped hillGetting closeMonte Fitz RoyVegetable curryEl ChaltenMark, Anthony, Janneck, Andrew

    En route to, and, El Chalten

    21. november 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We leave the hostel at 8 am for the 500 km journey to El Chalten, on the northern edge of Los Glaciares National Park. The road is fast, and the scenery is the same most of the way - steppes - as we reach the small town of Gobernador Gregores. The view is similar after the town, and the wind is cold and very strong!

    Soon afterwards, we pass by a beautiful turquoise coloured lake (Lago Cardiel) and unusual flat topped hills. It's so cold and windy, not unusual in Patagonia, we have lunch on the bus. Later, we pass through the town of Tres Lagos. Snow capped mountains appear as we turn off for the final 90 km to El Chalten, and we get our first views of the Monte Fitz Roy and the Cerre Poincenot. We stop for pictures and then reach our campsite at 6:30 pm. It's a nice-looking town and is a trekking centre for this area.

    It's a lovely campsite with facilities, and the vegetarian curry planned for tonight is cooked under cover. It was excellent, then into town for beers and to watch the Brazil v Argentina World Cup qualifer (0-1).    Les mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsReisendePatagonia Adventures
    1The route
    Mirador Rio de las VeultasMirador Fitz Roy1Views en routeThe hardest ascent I have ever done!This is why!Views on the ascentMonte Fitz Roy2Laguna de los Tres (frozen with snow on it) and Monte Fitz Roy behind itLaguna Capri, on the descent

    El Chalten; Monte Fitz Roy Trek

    22. november 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The Sendero al Fitz Roy goes from El Chalten up to Laguna de los Tres; it is allegedly 10 km each way, with a lot of uphill.... Captions on the photos describe the trail.

    It's steepish to start with for 3 km, and then it's flatter; lots of good views. 4 km later, we pass through the Poincenot camp site, and then the hard part starts; the ascent to the top is really steep on unstable ground. Fantastic views at the top of the ziggurat shape of Monte Fitz Roy help compensate for the most difficult ascent that I have ever done (last 2 km only). We have seen Monte Fitz Roy ahead of us during the day; granite towers and 3,400 metres high - a truly amazing site. We descend and see Laguna Capri on the other side to the Mirador Fiitz Roy seen on the way up.

    Ant and I really deserved a couple of beers after that walk!

    Then it's back to the campsite and out for food (and more beers).    Les mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsReisendePatagonia Adventures
    Monte Fitz Roy background; Andrew / Claire, our group leader and Kevin, our driver
    A final view of Monte Fitz Roy / The tour groupParador La LeonaEl CalafateDowntownLocal Argentine ChurchViews of Lago ArgentinoGlaciariumGlacier BarCheers; the local Calafate shot (calafate is a plant with dark berries)

    En route to, and, El Calafate

    23. november 2023, Argentina ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    We leave the campsite just after 8 am to travel to El Calafate, the southern end gateway to Los Glaciares National Park, and stop for pictures of Monte Fitz Roy. We reach the junction with the road south; it's steppe scenery again.

    We stop for views over the lake and again at Parador La Leona, where Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid stayed for 3 nights on their journey south from Bolivia.

    We arrive on El Calafate for midday and have an explore during the afternoon. After a late lunch, Ant's research using Atlas Obscura led us to the Glaciarium and the Glacier Bar. The Glaciarium is a glacier interpretation centre that describes the Patagonia glaciers and their development, etc, in interesting detail. Then we reached a short film narrated br thr Perito Moreno Glacier and its plight; it was rather moving. The Glacier Bar is made from glacial ice and is - 15 C; you get a poncho, and a couple of shots served in ice containers included in the price. 20 minutes max allowed in there; it was quite an experience.    Les mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsReisendePatagonia Adventures
    Lago Argentino
    Calafate bush with berries / yellow fire bushMirador de los Suspiros; first view of the GlacierPerito Moreno GlacierWalkway routes / Contrasting colours of the lake either side of the GlacierBoat trip2

    Perito Moreno Glacier

    24. november 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    We set off from El Calafate on the 80 km trip to Perito Moreno Glacier on a small van (10 people) at 9 am. We drive along Patagonian Steppe by Lago Argentino, the largest in the country; the arms of the lake form several peninsulars at the Andes, including that which enables the Perito Moreno Glacier. The weather is different on either side of the Andes.

    The lake is turquoise due to glacial sediment. Trees appear as we round the peninsula, and we stop at a mirador for our first view of the Glacier.

    We get there and walk along the excellent elevated walkways that are in place; this is a magnificent setting, and, once again, words and pictures can not do Perito Moreno Glacier justice. If you stop at one of the viewing points, after a while, you can see and hear ice and rock falling into the water. Amazing!

    We meet for the boat trip at 2 pm; this is also spectacular, getting up fairly close to the front of the Glacier.

    It has been a truly epic day.    Les mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsReisendePatagonia Adventures
    Resting on the bus
    Typical views; to the west / to the eastMines outside Rio TurbioViews of Puerto NatalesView from Garden DomesThe W-Trek in detailThe W-Trek in 3DThe W-Trek in 2DBrisket for dinner at El Brisket in townSunset at Garden Domes; thr fjord is connected to the Pacific Ocean.

    To Puerto Natales; The W-Trek Gateway

    25. november 2023, Chile ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    We eventually set off about 7:30 am for the journey to Puero Natales, back in Chile, to start the W-Trek tomorrow morning. It's a lovely day (in Argentina), and we head south with views of the Andes and Steppe on the west (sometimes Steppe only) and Steppe on the east.

    More hilly as we got south and we passed several small mines - one conveyor belt ran for miles - as we approached the town of Rio Turbio in South West Argentinafor an early lunch stop; the border crossing was shortly after this. The crossing from Argentina into Chile took just over 3 hours it was extremely windy on either side.

    The 12 W-Trekkers are dropped off at the Garden Domes Hostel, Puerto Natales, 130 km from the Torres del Paine National Park, for the W-Trek tomorrow; our hosts are ChileTour Patagonia. What appears to be a lake is actually the end of a fjord connected to the Pacific Ocean.

    This is the plan....

    Day 1. Base of Towers of Paine Trek
    Day 2; Los Cuernos Trek
    Day 3; French Valley Trek
    Day 4; Grey Trail Trek

    I am looking forward to seeing the 2,800m granite peaks soaring above the Patagonian Steppe!

    Then it's out for dinner (included in the price).    Les mer

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  • Andrew's TravelsReisendePatagonia Adventures
    Views en routeTorres de Paine viewpoint1

    Puerto Natales to start of W-Trek

    26. november 2023, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We set off for the 130 km journey to the park entrance by minibus just before 7 a.m.; It's windy, and it rains en route.. Rolling hills, reminiscent of Scotland (apparently), then snow-capped mountains. We stop for pictures at a mirador of the Torres before we reach the park entrance and then our drop-off point.Les mer

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