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THE WAY OF ST JAMES
  • Thompson's Camino 2024
  • Thompson's Camino 2024

THE WAY OF ST JAMES

Setting out on a family pilgrimage, walking the Camino Frances (800km's) from St Jean Pied de Port in France and finishing in Santiago Compostella, Spain. Creating memories along the way. Baca lagi
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  • Permulaan perjalanan
    31 Mac 2024
  • Thompson's Camino 2024THE WAY OF ST JAMESThompson's Camino 2024
    Stairwell in hotel
    Stairwell in hotelOur hotelView from roomView from roomParis at nightTraveling through Paris airport

    Dubai to Paris

    1–5 Apr 2024, Emiriah Arab Bersatu ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    We flew Emirates to Paris. Seven hour flight. Going through Paris airport was a breeze, very surprising. The best part of the trip was going outside once we met our taxi shuttle and getting some fresh air, as throughout the 2.5 days of travelling, we weren't able to go outside.
    Left airport after 9 pm, the drive from the airport was pretty quick. saw the stadiums for the summer Olympics and Notre dame and Eiffel tower in the distance, but not much else as the driver was in a hurry.
    Checked into the hotel and got sorted. Nice but small room with a balcony, Lucy crashed pretty quick and was first to bed, Emily catching up with keno...(we will meet him at breakfast). Michelle and I will go for a short walk before crashing ourselves... pretty shattered.
    This is when our trip really begins.    Baca lagi

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  • Thompson's Camino 2024THE WAY OF ST JAMESThompson's Camino 2024
    3Keno, Emily and Lucy
    3Keno, Emily and LucyEiffel tower from afarEmily, Keno and LucyDepartment store ceilingOn the busThe LouveThe Louve and gardensNotre DameRiver SieneNotre DameWaiting to get into the MuseumInside the Museum. was previously a train stationMonetChaos at thr Arc

    Day 1 in Paris 😀

    2 April 2024, Perancis ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Our first day in Paris. First stop, the rooftop of a massive department store to see the view of Paris and take some tourist photos.
    Jumped on a bus to get a feel for the city, it drove past all the local key spots so we could get some bearings. We then spent the rest of the day at Orsay Museum experiencing Monet, Degas, Van Gough, and Manet it was amazing. we also enjoyed our first baguette.
    Experienced the Paris roads and chaos by bus. The summary is that there are very few road rules. Check out the video. This is the roundabout at the Arc de Triomphe 12 roads feed into one roundabout.
    Dinner was at a local bistro...tried snails. Paris is extremely busy but so much to do.    Baca lagi

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    A view of Champ de Elysee1Traffic chaos from the Arc1Lucy and Michelle on the Arc stairwellKeno and Emily on Arc stirwell221

    Day 2 in Paris

    3 April 2024, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We all had an amazing day. Started off with a bus trip to trocadera Square to take some photos of the Eiffel Tower, then off on a cruise down the Seine River.
    We then walked to the Arc de Triomphe and headed up 284 stairs to experience breath taking views of Paris.
    Next was a late lunch (the baguettes are amazing), and people watching along the Champs-Elysees. Walked all the way to the next museum (Orangerie, in the tuleries gardens) hone of Monet water lillies and plenty of Picasso . We finished our sightseeing with a famous hot choc and macaroons @ Angelinas.
    Such an awesome day....finished off with dinner at another local bistro.    Baca lagi

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    Rainbow from Eiffel Tower
    Rainbow from Eiffel Tower1

    Day 3 in Paris

    4 April 2024, Perancis ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    So much rain overnight, and continued to rain heavily in the morning, we had a 10am Eiffel tower trip booked, so the weather was not ideal. However, once we stepped out onto viewing deck, it cleared up.(check out the rainbow) To be honest, views were amazing, but very busy, couldn't go to the very top due to wind.
    We all walked back along the Siene towards the Louve, we had afternoon tickets.
    The thing about Paris is every attraction you visit, you need to go through a security checkpoint and scanners so this does cause long queues.
    The Louve was amazing, and one could definitely spend a lot of time wondering around.
    Highlight was the Mona Lisa (of course). I couldn't believe they had a Starbucks inside..
    Tomorrow we will catch the train to St. Jean via Bayonne. We enjoyed our time in Paris, we definitely did a lot in a short amount of time...and especially enjoyed getting to know Keno.    Baca lagi

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    11

    Paris to St Jean Pied de Port

    5 April 2024, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Caught two trains today, one from Paris to Bayonne and then on to St Jean. Fast trains up to 320kms per hour.
    In St. Jean, we picked up our Pilgrim's passports , checked into our hostel (a room with four bunks and shared bathroom) and sorted our bags that are going to Santiago. Out for dinner and a walk.
    Excited about tomorrow. Bien Camino.    Baca lagi

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    1Fresh baguettes just arrivedCook your own eggs...Long walk aheadGood bye accomodationOur first maker along the wayFollow the Yellow signs and makers11First stop Orisson. Only 20kms to go1Can you tell its windyYah break timeMichelle in franceMichelle in spainWe are staying here tonightAre we there yetOne foot after anotherSo closeWr thought we were on top floor...not the dungeon1

    St Jean to Roncesvalles

    6 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    We all slept ok last night, hostel a little noisy, but nothing ear plugs couldn't fix. Other people started to depart at 5.30, so we ended up getting up early. Checked out of accommodation after breakfast and started walat 7.30am.
    Wow, what a first day on the Camino. 26kms pretty much all up hill, crossing the Pyrenees between France and and Spain. The scenery was amazing however, weather was brutal with extremely high winds. Arrived in Roncesvalles after 7hrs walking, it then took 90 mins to check in(??) as our accommodation is shared with 200 + pelligrinos (spanish for pilgrams), and we all had to have our passports scanned as we crossed a border. Not the greatest accomodation, 3 Thompson girls not happy...but dinner was great.
    Highlight of the walk was walking a few kms with an unknown dog...
    Met a lot of people today from all over the world, including Jack from Canada, who is doing his 11th Camino.

    More photos to come...    Baca lagi

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  • Thompson's Camino 2024THE WAY OF ST JAMESThompson's Camino 2024
    Our first church we officially walked past, leaving RoncesvallesFirst stop for breakfastHemingway stayed hereHow cool is this little village.. BurgetteBurgette Church1All these people to pass...just like coast to coast. All doing the way.Another churchA peregrino and perrogrino. Perro is dog in spanish. This dog is doing the CaminoA town called Espinal1I've seen these stepping stones on so many youtube videosTown of ViskareetPeople get bread delivered each morningGreat looking cemeteryA town called ViscarretA 12th century churchAccomodation at Larrasoaña. It was so niceThe hostels mascot...

    Roncesvalles to Larrasoaña

    7 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Last night we stayed at Santa Maria de Orreaga Roncesvalles a resting place for Pilgrim's since the middle ages. This was built at the end of the 12th century and beginning of the 13th century. Accommodation (in the basement) was basic and we endured a symphony of snoring throughout the night.

    We set of for Larrasoaña via Zubiri at 7.30am. We made our way through a remote agricultural region and were delighted with the beautiful homes in the villages. We learnt that these beautifully restored homes are primarily second homes for the wealthy holidaying from the city.

    We enjoyed poweraides, chips and fruit in Zubiri before a final push through to Larrasoaña.

    The agricultural setting throughout the day was picturesque. We discovered a romanesque 12th century church, lush meadows and horses with bells around their necks.

    We had been warned about "scary" barking dogs and we did see warning signs ... but no sign of them today.

    Our accommodation tonight is delightful, hot showers, a bunk room to our selves, sunshine, cold beers and a fabulous outdoors court yard. We are in heaven!

    So far no blisters and all in good health.    Baca lagi

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    11

    Larrasoana to Uterga

    8 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today we walked 34km from Larrasoaña to Uterga via Pamplona. We started out through beautiful rural scapes through to the ancient town Pamplona up and over the Alta Perdon back into the countryside again.

    Good news for all dog owners in Spain; there is no need to carry little plastic bags - your dog can "go" anywhere, such fun!

    No one in Spain uses a lawnmower, weedeater or Round Up. The road side is a riot of delicate spring flowers and weeds. The trees are in blossom. The open spaces are unstructured meadows; not paddocks like in NZ and there are no livestock.

    We walked through the pretty town of Zariquiegui looking for afternoon tea today; it was a ghost town as everyone was having a siesta.

    We have no injuries and no blisters. We have decided to continue with the huge days for a little while. We are walking at a rate of 3 - 4 km per hour. So 30 odd kms takes about 10 hours with breaks. It's slow because of the hills and often challenging footways.    Baca lagi

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    Uterga to Estella

    9 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Freezing cold morning. We walked with headlamps up and out of Uterga. We walked through vineyards and olive groves; beautiful Mediterranean views.

    We followed an old Roman road and crossed many Roman bridges.

    The small towns that we passed through were beautiful, but the streets are airely quiet. We have learnt that this is a combination of many of the restored houses are second homes or holiday homes, some homes are abandoned and lunch is a very significant meal starting around 1pm. This is followed by a siesta. The shops close around 1pm and re open approximately 4.30 until 7 or 8pm. Finding food is therefore a challenge.

    In the medieval city of Estella we saw a stunning Roman Church and visited a Roman cloister fully intact. It was wonderful.    Baca lagi

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    Estella to Sansol

    10 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Early start at 6am, arrived at Ireche Bodega wine fountain very early but still managed a sample. Walked 8kms before a fabulous breakfast at Aroueta. It was freezing. An uphill walk all the way. We met a Dutchman by the name of Renee, the inner of cafe, he completed camino in October and after falling in love stayed and opened thus cafe, he had only been operating for four weeks...he was living the dream.

    More fabulous mediterean scenes, olive groves, vineyards and acres of lush green spring wheat.

    An unexpected early lunch at a well stocked modern food truck in the middle of nowhere is run by Americans, providing healthy, clean food and great conversation.

    An easy day with a gentle undulating terrain.

    Arrived quite early at alburge with stunning views and outdoor areas...enjoyed the afternoon and evening with a few drinks. Tomorrow will be a big day.    Baca lagi

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    Sansol to Navarette

    11 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We had a pretty big walk planned today due to the distance between Logrono and Navarette. Option one was to do 20kms to Logrono. Option two was to push on for another 12.5 km to Navarette. We chose option two, We woke up at 5 and got to the front door of accommodation at 5.45 to find it was locked and we couldn't get out... surely there was a way out. After searching for 20 mins, checking every possibility (including scaling the outside wall), Lucy went behind the reception desk and found a front door key, which she then used to unlock the front door. The girls escaped, and I locked the door from. Inside, and i had to then climb quite a big fence/wall, and we were finally on our way.
    The first stop was Vianna, an 11km walk through olive groves slightly up and down. Sunrise was amazing. We actually arrived for breakfast at 9. Vienna was a beautiful town. It had a lovely town square and cobled streets.

    Next stop Logrono, another 9kms away. Pretty flat farmland style walk and arrived before 12.

    Logrono is a large city, beside an impressive river, visited the local church and walked around town for a little bit, then enjoyed lunch before tackling the last 13kms.

    Felt like it took forever to get out of Logrono. Once we did, the walk took us through forests, lakes and picnic areas. The last 5kms were elevated and slightly difficult, and it got pretty hot as well. Our accommodation being at the outskirts of the village didn't help either.

    We arrived shattered and hot after a long 38k (on the dpp it was supposed to be 33?) but we had a private room with our own bathroom and a great outside area, so tired but happy.    Baca lagi

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    Navarette to Azorfa

    12 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    It was a pretty easy day today, only 23kms. However, the app said the first town was 16 km away, so we headed to bakery at 7 before setting off, but not open, we asked some locals in broken spanish donde esta el cafe con leche, they pointed to the right and we secured coffee and toast.

    We then set off towards Najera 16kms away through vineyards and hills, we went left at a sign post for a town after 9kms and were diverted to Ventosa, although a 2km di erosion it was a lovely town and we took the opportunity for a second breakfast.

    The walk to Najera was pretty flat, which was lucky as it got very hot early and no shade. We met many other pilgrams/pelligrinos from Italy, America, Germany and even a couple of Australians (still haven't seen any kiwis, in fact when staying at alburge the hosts usually makes comment that we are the first kiwis of the season). Once through Najera, we had 7km to go, and the landscape was hilly, vast, and hot, full of nothing but vineyards.
    We arrived once again hot and ready for a shower, beers and potato chips...the town of Azofra is small and lovely, had a great meal in one of two cafes and was served by the Spanish version of Addigtons Rocky...check the photo.    Baca lagi

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    Azorfa to Castildelgado

    13 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The church bells struck 6 just as we set off on our way today. Our aim was to get some kilometers under our belt before the searing Spanish sun got up at 7am.

    We had a delicious breakfast of French bread and eggs, tortillas, and hot coffee on the way.

    Today, we walked through many towns and open countryside. The countryside was all wheat and a few vineyards. Spain is mainly an agricultural country. The larger towns were a little more populated today being a Saturday. Again, many of the smaller towns were airily empty.

    We checked into our albergue at 3.30pm, early for us. We managed to have showers, do laundry and park ourselves with cold beers and nacho chips in a fabulous walled courtyard by 4.15pm; bliss!!!

    We have just met Jurgen from the Netherlands who left his front door two months ago, walking all the way to Santiago a total of 2300 km...it will take him another month.

    Pilgrim dinner at 7pm. 3 courses plus wine 18 Euro...    Baca lagi

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    Castildelgado to Villafranca

    14 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Fabulous day walking through rolling hills planted with canola and wheat.

    We walked 5kms to breakfast at a Chilean owned Cafe. At last kiwi quality coffee!!! Michelle had three cafe con leches. Breakfast was tortillas fresh from the kitchen, toastadas, French bread sandwiches and coffee. Delicious!

    It was an easy walk day of about 22kms. We got to our albergue at the earliest time to date at 1.30pm. We discovered the best "supermacardo" thus far and stocked up on the essestials; beer, potato chips, individual slices of cake (sold in cellophane wrappers), bread, cheese, ham and chocolate. We had a lovely picnic lunch in the shade of the 12th century church.

    Dinner was at a pilgrims menu in a lovely restaurant with tablecloths and table service in the restored ancient Pilgrim's hospital.

    Brian and Michelle had a late afternoon walk around the village and had a great chat with a lively local walking her two dogs.    Baca lagi

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    Villafranca to ?

    15 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    What a day...
    We had planned a simple 26k walk to Cardenula Riopico. However, when we woke at 5am, Emily had been up most of the night very unwell,.. what to do ?We agreed to walk to the first town slowly (12 km) and see how she felt. We made it 1km, then Lucy started to feel unwell. So Michelle and the girls turned around to head back to accommodation (seemed sensible at the time) to rest and then take a taxi to the town we were planning on staying. To cut a long story short, they ended up taking two taxis and going 15km past our destination to a major city, which was a much better plan (so much more to this adventure which we will share when we return)
    So I then walked solo from Villafranca to Burgos a total of what I thought would be about 40km.

    Cockoos were out and about in the bush.

    There are very much up and down and tiny towns.. When I got to Riopico, i was pretty excited we were not staying there!

    Atapuerca, which was one of the towns I passed, is famous for caves on the outskirts holding the remains of early humans, some as old as 800,000 years.

    I arrived in Burgos early in the afternoon, and the girls were still unwell but a little better, so while they slept, Michelle and I checked out the city. We had a fabulous night out at a local restaurant.

    The urban Spanards dress beautifully; great winter coats, blazers, boots, all the women are made up (they favor blue eyeliner), hair is styled, and they look wonderful. We Camino travellirs looked very shabby in comparison.

    It was lovely to see the city squares and plazas full with families all ages getting together and sharing time. In the middle of the main town Square there was a beautiful carousel for the children.

    Burgos has a tremendous amount of churches, museums, a cathedral (which we spent most of our time in), a few monasteries, and plenty of bars and restaurants to keep us entertained.

    We are impressed with the staffing in restaurants and cafes, where there would he four staff in NZ, one taking order, one making coffee, one delivering and clearing and one standing in the corner on their phone...the Spanish have one and they are fast and attentive.

    We only have a short walk of 15kms tomorrow due to a change in plans today. I'm not sure if girls will be well enough to walk tomorrow, but we have a plan if not.    Baca lagi

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    Burgos to Rabe de los Calzados

    16 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Our apartment in Burgos, two rooms and two bathrooms were perfect for a family with two sick children..the 11am checkout was awesome as well, especially since we only had to walk12kms.

    The girls were a little better this morning. We took them through the cathedral and for coffee and put them in a taxi headed to the next town... a 15-minute trip.

    Michelle and I had a great walk, the weather was perfect, and we met a few Australians and an Itslian and walked with them. We passed through a few small towns and had a great lunch at tardajos.

    We arrived at Rabe...at around 4 pm and checked into a lovely family run alburgue with two private rooms and a bar/restaurant.

    The town is delightful, with a church filled with storks in the steeple and an old palace...

    I'm pretty sure this is our favorite small town, I like with Estella.

    We have a 28km walk tomorrow, and girls (at this stage) are keen to walk. They have eaten a small dinner and it has not come up...so things are looking up.    Baca lagi

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    Rabe...to Castrojetez

    17 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today we started the much anticpated Masetta good and proper. It is famed for being long, relatively flat, hot and tedious. We were blessed with a cool overcast day and really enjoyed ourselves.

    Setting of at 6.45am prior to sunrise we were looking forward to our breakfast at the 8km town of .... However everything was closed and we had to walk on. We were rewarded with a great lunch in the beautiful town of. Hortsnas. Fresh croissants french bread and totilllas. Good coffee, too. At 1.2 Euros per.coffee, Michelle felt completely justified ordering 3! There is a very nice looking small hotel here with an attached spa
    We would highly recommend staying here or at least lunching here at the Bar in the albergue in the middle of the town

    In the last few kilometers prior to Castrojertz we came across the ruins of medieval monastery church, and pilgrims hospital. It was magnificent. A group of volunteers are restoring it and have built a very basic albergue there (it has no power - so it was a no for us).

    Castrojetz is a great town and we are very happy to be here. The albergue is 2 years old, modern and clean. They serve breakfast at 6am - so excellent for us. We have learnt that it is awesome to get the serious k's in before lunch (i.e. about 20), so you have time to wash clothes, plan accommodation, and explore the town in the afternoon.

    Today we saw a 800 year old church with an interior dating back to Roman times. Built 1214. Mind blowing for us kiwis. But the absolute thrill of the day was climbing to the ruins of the Castle of Castrojez. This is a 9th century castle in great condition that we were able to explore. Simply mind blowing.

    A feature of the Castilian County that we are now in is the many houses built into the rock face. We saw many of these cave homes in Castrojez today.

    I also observed a new feature in the ancient houses where the roof beams of the first floor hung about 50cm over the ground floor creating more floor space on the second floor and an eve over the ground floor. Not seen in the Basque County and not common - but evident.

    So far, we have walked 325kms on the way...doesn't include the many kms done once we reach our destination.    Baca lagi

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  • Thompson's Camino 2024THE WAY OF ST JAMESThompson's Camino 2024
    Monument in the middle of town SquareCrossing the river prior to the uphillWe have to walk up thereThe hill was worth it to get a great view of CastrojezWe didn't stay here...Not far to go...Reminds me of Nort Loburn...Walking into Boadilla and lunch. Only 8kms to goAnother storks nest...there were five on this steepleCanal de CastillaThe locks of Castilla1.85 for a litre of beer...I love spain

    Castrojerez to Fromista

    18 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Finally, a hostel that served breakfast at 6 so we could eat before we left...

    Another cool morning weather wise, but we warmed up early once we hit the hill. We met and walked most of the day with Nelson and Zoe from the states, really nice people. The craziest thing was that on our very first day of walking, we met Canadian Jack, who had completed 11 caminos, and he mentioned he was trying to catch two friends who had started a few days earlier. When we left him on day three he was catching a bus..Anyway I mentioned to Nelson that we had met a Canadian on first day who had walked the Camino and Nelson said are you talking about Jack...it turned out that Nelson and Zoe were the two people Jack had bussed to meet and that they had spent some time together in Logrono and were planning on meeting him in Carrion tomorrow night, do we get to catch up with Jack again which we are looming forward to.

    Girls are back to full fitness and pretty much walked by themselves, and we met them for lunch.

    We are really enjoying the messeta which on most of the camino youtube channels gets a bad wrap due to lack of views, however we disagree, we even walked past a church that was once a pilgrims hospital and was over a 1000 years old and you can stay there.

    The walk after lunch was mainly beside the Canal de Castilla, which was built in the 18th century as a way of transporting goods, it nows serves as the main source for irrigation of the regions' farms. The walk did drag on... you can jump on a small boat if you chose to, but we didn't.

    Fromista is a very cool little town with a few churches, one which put on a concert for pilgrams tonight, which was appreciated.

    Tomorrow is a rest day, only walking 20kms as option two was 35km.    Baca lagi

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    Fromista to Carrion de los condes

    19 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Just a short 20km walk today. We all had a sleep in and left the hostal at 8... where are my walking poles, not in the foyer, and they weren't in our room, think think. The last time I saw them was as at the supermarket yesterday afternoon. Quick diversion before we leave, arrived waited for 10mins I told open (please note this was the first supermarket in Spain that actually was scheduled to open at 8). Man arrived an opened shop and gappy days, poles were there, problem sorted.

    Today we walked through the heart of the Masetta which followed along the motorway most of the day. We were surrounded by wheat and canola fields.

    We have had wonderful weather, clear warm days and cool starts.

    Many many people smoke in Spain; cigarette vending machines are common and cigarettes are cheap.

    We have also seen at least two petrol stations with bars inside. Handy if you want to drink and drive!

    In rural Spain the siesta is real. Most shops close for at least two hours in the afternoon. They open up again for a couple of hours in the early evening - usually from 5-7pm. Even in the big city of Burgos we noticed that none of the shops were open before 10am and most were open late. Everywhere on a Sunday is quiet and very little is open anywhere.

    It is very hard to buy food. Sugar or chocolate is added to a lot of food especially cereals. White French bread is served with almost everything. Fresh food is not readily available on the Camino. We buy apples, bananas and the odd tomato where and when we can. It is a high carb high meat diet at the moment.

    We continue to see the most incredible old churches every day. Today    Baca lagi

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    Carrion to Ledigos

    20 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We had an amazing family dinner last night...pizza, burgers, and beers it was so good.

    Departed hostal at 7am and had breakfast at a cafe as we had no opportunity to stop for 17kms..
    The walk was great, we only had 24kms and we knew we were staying at a flash hostal. The walk was flat and ghe weather was grand; clear skies and not too hot. Not much to see, mainly cropping land.

     We met a few new friends today, Dave and Brenda from the states. a lovely Italian couple Lucia and Donatella and Pete from Wales. The best part of the walk was seeing Jimmy from Ireland, who we met on the second day and haven't seen since...it was great hearing his travel stories...and having a few laughs. A member of the rainbow community took a real liking to Jimmy on the way and just about fell over himself to get to Jimmy who almost tripped over himself trying to escape. We absolutely made the most of that situation an ribbed him as much as possible. His friend Pete from Wales joined us and managed to make further fun.

    Checking into La Morenaa was awesome; it's like a resort. Beautiful clean, white walls, modern amenities, crisp white sheets and foot cream, chocolates on the pillows and everything even smelt great! Of course the three girls got a private room, but even Brian's bunk pod was very very nice (we think he enjoyed escaping us for a change). The girls said Michelle only snored a little bit too.

    At La Morena we caught up with Marco, John and Barry. Brian and the girls played Uno with Marco until late. We had fun.

    The Pilgrim's menu that they serve most places is starting to wear thin; it's cheap but almost always consists of chicken leg and chips or some sort of stew great for the first 10 nights. White French bread is served in plentiful quantities at all meals. We never ever thought we would get tired of it... but it happened. Any chance we get we are onto the brown bread.

    We had an awesome stay at La Morena, little did we know what the next stay had in store for us!    Baca lagi

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    Ledigos to Bercianos del Real Camino

    21 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Fabulous breakfast of espresso coffees, fresh orange juice, chocolate croissants, tortillas, and toastardas. We were in heaven!

    A reasonably late departure for us at 7.30 am. A good day on the Masetta, lovely clear sunny sky but a cool wind.

    We crossed the halfway point today and took a couple of photos between the monuments.

    We bought lunch supplies from the only supermarket open in the large town of Sahgun and had sandwiches, cokes, and chips in the sunshine, perfect.

    The road followed along the motorway for the most part, but there were shady trees and grain fields on both sides. It was a very pleasant 24kms.

    Both Lucy and Ems are having some blister issues, but Brian and I seem to have goat's feet - no issues at all. None of us have any other physical ailments, but we are all just getting very, very tired. We have a planned break in the city of Leon in a couple of days' time to catch up on sleep. Today, the girls and I (Michelle) started dreaming of our suitcases waiting in Santiriago and anticpated the joy of dust free clothes, jeans, and street shoes!

    We have made a few friends now on the Camino: "the boys- Marco, John and Barry, Emma from the US, Kay from Aussie ( a veteran 11 Camino walker), Kim from Italy and Jimmy from Ireland to name a few. We know our finish date in Santiago will coincide with many people, so we are looking forward to celebrating with them.

    We reached our accommodation by 3pm. The hostel is grim; the opposite of last night's. We were keen to escape, so we had quick showers and relocated to the "nice" albergue for games of Uno, beers, bar snacks, and dinner. Our plan was to camp there until the last minute and go back to sleep in our hostel and escape as early as possible in the morning.

    We knew tonight's accommodation would be challenging due to a hasty change in plans last night. We had planned to walk the old Roman way. But discovered this is not the best option. So changed. We think from here on we are all sorted with good digs.    Baca lagi

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  • Thompson's Camino 2024THE WAY OF ST JAMESThompson's Camino 2024

    Bercianos to Mansilla de las Mulas

    22 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We are amazed by the kind and hospitable nature of the Spanards. Yesterday, we called into a farmacia in Sahagun, and on hearing that we were from NZ the pharmacist gave us lots of little gifts: sunblock, herbal teas and tiny cookies! He had never had anyone in his pharmacy from NZ before, and he was so lovely to us. We promised to send him an NZ $5 note for his visitor's corkboard behind his till.

    Last night we stayed in what (hopefully) was the worst hostel of our stay, but the hostess (Rosa) was so lovely and kind. Her little cafe was packed full with locals on arrival. This morning when we woke up the hostel was full of the most fabulous breakfast smells. Now we know why her little cafe (or bars as they are called here) was so busy! We had 3 espressos, 3 toastardas, and a muffin for 12 Euro - not bad .... and it was delicious.

    When we called into El Burgo Ranero on the way to our stop tonight, we met Hose and Marrissa, the most lively tiny supermarket owners. On hearing that we were from NZ, they showed us the Santiago Compostella's image on the back of the Spainish coins and promptly gave us all a coin from out of their till and lollipops!

    This was our last day on the Masetta, and we had fantastic weather - clear, sunny but with a cool wind. We had a picnic lunch; jam sandwiches, tex mex corn chips, and diet cokes!

    The Masetta is the primary cropping area in Spain, and as we are walking out of it, we are starting to see more livestock in the paddocks.

    This area is Castilian, and due to a lack of natural durable building supplies, most of the ancient buildings are no longer standing. Of those that are still remaining we can see that they are made of clay, mud bricks with clay over the top, or clay mixed with large stones. Roofs continue to be tiled. The eves are slightly wider, and there are lots of homes that reach into the hillside and are therefore part cave. We would love to have a look inside one ... but so far no offers from the locals for a home tour. Maybe if we smile broadly enough.

    We have seen a lot of incredible home electrical wiring - it is just strung together on the outside of homes under the very narrow eves. The outflow from all downpipe also simply terminate onto the footpaths! Easy peasy!

    Tonight we are staying in private home, it is large, modern, quiet and very comfortable we are extremely happy. It is a little out of town so we were picked up and driven out by taxi. Before our pick up, we were able to stock up on some essential supplies; corn chips, red wine, new tooth brushes, sultanas, diet coke and peanut butter for picnic sandwich variety.

    We are looking forward to a short walk tomorrow (19kms) into the city of Leon. We are staying in a nice hotel and have made loose arrangements to catch up with our Camino friends. We are anticipating tapas and beers with relish!    Baca lagi

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  • Thompson's Camino 2024THE WAY OF ST JAMESThompson's Camino 2024
    LeonRoman Bridge on the way into LeonLeon Cathedral.Plaza ReglaOut and about in LeonOur Italian couple we see each day.Typical accomodation on the Camino...not. just Leon treat for two nightsOn the way to dinner, cathedral in the distanceFarewell Marco

    Mansilla to Leon

    23–24 Apr 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We stayed at Casa Miguel Y Sally last night, which was absolutely lovely, although not quite the luxurious home that was portrayed on the internet. Sally made a traditional homemade Spanish dish comprised of slow cooked chick peas, cabbage, pork, and chorizo sausage. It was consumed with a bottle of red wine and the ubiquitous white French loaf.

    Today, we had a very short walk of about 20km into the city of Leon. The Way followed mostly parallel to the motorway, and to be fair, it was not as picturesque as the early days. But that is life on the Camino. It was also extremely cold this morning about minus one , and didn't warm up until 10ish..hence the early morn8ng cafe stop for coffee and ho5 choc dor Emily and Lucy.

    We have gotten to know many people now and we are enjoying bumping into them in bars (coffee bars), along the way and in the street - this has made up for the lack of views today.

    Life on the Camino is exceptionally busy. I had thoughts of relaxing afternoons after a morning's walk, journaling, reading, sightseeing, and generally being quiet and reflecting on life. But this is absolutely not the case. Our days start early with the alarm at 5-6am depending on how long our walking day is. We pack and either eat breakfast before we leave or plan to eat it at the first town. Frequently everything's closed in the first town and we walk on. Because of breaks and the ever changing terrain and slope of the land we travel at around 4kms per hour and this is considered reasonably fast. When we arrive at our albergue we check in, find our beds, wash our clothes, check the weather for the next day, plan our meals, decide on dinner options, check our forward reservation, check the washing and book more accommodation. It's like having a job!

    Booking accommodation takes a long time and is confusing - we use about 4 different Camino apps - for different reasons. Brian and I decided we would dedicate time today and make sure everything is booked up to our trip to Porto in Portugal. Result, we achieved it - that has removed a lot of stress. Brian has done the lion's share of the bookings - we are very grateful.

    We have two nights in Leon so a rest day tomorrow/sight seeing. We also farewell Marco tonight...he is off back to Italy.    Baca lagi

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  • Thompson's Camino 2024THE WAY OF ST JAMESThompson's Camino 2024
    1

    Rest day in Leon

    24–25 Apr 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ -1 °C

    It was so nice to sleep in and not have to get up and on the road early. Yesterday afternoon, we pretty much chilled out in the hotel and then walked around Leon... It's such an awesome city. Dinner at a local restaurant overlooking the Cathedral was amazing. Although the street our hotel is on looks extremely dodgy..the hotel is amazing and the sleep was excellent.

    While Emily and Lucy slept in Michelle and I did the tourist things, the photos don't do it justice. We visited the convent of San marcos,a 12th century inn rebuilt in the 16th century, it was a prison (Francisco de Quevedo was held captive there), a cavalry barracks, a hospital, and currently the National Parador, a hotel...also houses the León Museum, with remains and pieces of great historical-artistic value, among them the Christ of Carrizo, a spiritual figure from the 11th century, as well as objects of prehistoric, Roman and medieval art (can you tell I did a cut and paste...) we checked out San Martin and Mayor plazas and a couple of cool cafe/shops (the city has a lot if beggers...).

    The girls met us at 12 to check out the Cathedral, they provide an audio tour which was incredible...the Cathedral built between 1205 and 1301, has a magnificent array of stained glass windows,the Cathedral of Santa María de Regla, a true jewel of Gothic art, became Spain’s first officially declared monument by Royal Decree in 1844 (cut & paste).

    We then checked out the Roman walls. León has preserved intact most of the Roman and medieval walls that enclose the city’s historic quarter. Some parts of the walls that have survived to the present day are Roman, while others are medieval, so some parts are from the first to the fourteenth century (cut and paste).

    We visited the Palacio de los Guzmanes. This sixteenth-century Renaissance edifice is now the headquarters of the Provincial Council and the city’s most important palace. It was built by the architect Rodrigo Gil de Hontañón on the orders of the noble and leader of the Comuneros’ Revolt, Ramiro Núñez de Guzmán.

    After all this, the girls headed for Burger King and the hotel, and Michelle and I had a nice dinner by ourselves...    Baca lagi

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