• Cusco

    October 24, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Cusco, the capital of the Inca empire!
    Its name means "belly button of the earth", and indeed it sits in a depression between the mountains, at the centre of the Inca empire.

    In the middle of the historical town, on the plaza de Armas stands the statue of Pachacuti, the ninth Inca emperor (?-1471) who established Cusco as the capital.

    Surprisingly, there is a lot more that is left here of the Inca (Quechua) civilisation than one would naively think, considering how the last Inca emperor was ignominiously tricked and killed in Cajamarca. The plaza de Armas itself is part of the old Inca central square, and several of the surrounding streets retain the old Inca walls, many houses still contain parts of old Inca constructions, recognisable by the absence of mortar and the perfect fitting of the stones. Of course the Inca palace has disappeared - its stones were used to build the Cathedral...

    The town center is very touristic, largely as a point of passage on the way to Machu Pichu. We overhear many Spanish speaking tourists, but also from US, UK, France, Netherlands and Germanic Europe, Russian... and more... mostly coasting between souvenirs shops in the very busy streets of the center.

    We are almost alone visiting the Inca museum however, and it is a little marvel. Quite a bit is known of the populations of the Andes long before the Incas took over in the 12th century, and beyond the Spanish conquest in 1533. While westerners were basically busy enslaving the native population for rubber plantations and mining, some of the natives had escaped to remote places where they preserved knowledge of the Inca constructions and traditions.

    We are (just the two of us) treated to a demonstration of replica Inca music instruments. These variously play musical notes, animal and bird calls and a selection of sounds (the glug of emptying a bottle, thunder, etc.).

    We also take advantage of Cusco to explore more refined cuisine: ceviche, special alpaca cuts with a great variety of herbs, Peruvian wine, and some very special desert flavours (including coca leaf powder).
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