Cajamarca

Here at 2750 m altitude, we enter the heart of Peruvian history. This is the place where Spanish conquistador Pizzaro defeated and captured the Inca emperor Atahualpa, tricked him of a huge ransom ofもっと詳しく
Modern mosaics and ancient tombs

Out first visit of the day is to the sanctuary in Polloc, very near to where we just spent the night. The church and the courtyard around the water pool are covered with bright modern mosaics which weもっと詳しく
A moment of rest

Our traverse of the Marañon valley represents some 3600m of ascent. In addition, we have been cold, molten and bitten. We are utterly zonked and Alain is coughing seriously. So we settle at the Hotelもっと詳しく
Out of the furnace into the …

As we cross the river Marañon in the base of the gorge we trade shady green mango groves for hot dry barren countryside.
We pause in a small amount of shade to swap the tent back over to Alice forもっと詳しく
The Marañon valley

We get going early, to a pure blue sky, with the perspective of a long and beautiful descent of 2200m in altitude from our bivouac at 3100m. We are on the west facing side of the great valley and theもっと詳しく
A different scale

It is hard to explain the moment of awe when we suddenly see the view of the river gorge we are about to descend. Almost 3 vertical km of it. Normally, crossing a pass means the scenery shifts, butもっと詳しく
The Calla Calla pass

As we cycle deeper into the mountains, the scenery changes and widens; the river becomes smaller and cleaner. The settlements remain very poor, with smily but dusty children, dogs barking at cyclists.もっと詳しく
Leimebamba museum

In 1996, six farmers discovered a new Chachapoyas burial site on a high ledge with six chullpas (figures) and 219 mummies. The mummies are now stored in a small community museum near Leimebamba.もっと詳しく
Kuélap, city of the Chachapoyas

Kuélap sits atop a 3000m mountain and is branded the Machu-Pichu of the north. It was constructed by the Chachapoyas civilization, who occupied the catchment area of the Utcubamba river, a remote andもっと詳しく
The gorges of the Utcubamba

Descending from Cocachimba we continue wobbling research on Alice's bicycle. We find a compromise by relocating Alice's front charge to Alain's back paniers. In exchange Alice will carry the tent forもっと詳しく
Gocta waterfalls

The 771m Gocta falls were only “discovered” in 2005. They are in 2 parts, the top fall of 231m and the bottom one 540m. The waterfall is now well and truly on the tourist trail.
We pedal up theもっと詳しく
The second pass

The downshifting of large trucks is a powerful alarm clock. We are awake early, having survived several episodes of heavy rain; well done tent!
The task of the day is to get over another 2350m passもっと詳しく
The first pass

Tarapoto is low and steamy. The plan is to take a taxi up the long busy valley to where the mountains start. Despite assurances from the hotel, the lift with bikes (still boxed) is a challenge. A vanもっと詳しく
旅行者
Incredible stonemasonry that has stood the test of time!
What discoveries you are making as you explore and take guided trips! Go you two!!! [Angela]