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  • AliceAlain

Peru

A 103-day adventure by AliceAlain Read more
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  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    18km does not sound far... but can we make it? The hairpins are on view
    Leaving Shila some high peaks just peaking throughYoung peasant woman and her donkey in traditional dressThe Huarcarán towers above usLooking back to the Cordillera Negra whilst the pig gently dozesLike the Mont Blanc, its easy to miss- and suddenly realize there is something above the cloudsThe deep valley we are climbingAnother side of the HuscaránNow in the National ParkThey are tall

    Huascaran National Park

    September 22, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Today is a short leg to get us as close as we can to the final climb to puntas Olympica - so as to give us the best chance of making it over tomorrow. We enter the national park with towering peaks and high glaciers around. Arriving at the planned camp spot just before lunch and get the tent up in time to avoid the hail and then the rain. We are both demolished!

    Unexpected magic. When Alain turns his torch off in the tent, we are surrounded by twinkling lights. Many are in between the inner and outer of the tent. And outside, the delicate light dance of fire flies across the river plain.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Clear this morning; above our campsite appears the Chugllaroju 5575m
    The stage map. Start top-left where the dashed trail crosses the river; many hairpins after that!Getting up at 6:00 for the last stretch1Chajiaco 5512m, a beauty1Across the valley, the Chopicalqui, 6354mThe top of Huascarán 6768m, is the second from the left. It will all disappear in the clouds soon.Mountain LupineThe valley from which we arrived1Closer to the top, we are near seriously receeding glaciers1Occasional crash barriers. Also: bicycles, glaciers, cloudsRun off from the glacier forms cascadesThe clouds hide the top of the show2We stop here at 4770m. Clouded view from Huscarán (left), a glacier pass, and Chopicalqui (right).We are near beautiful peaks and ice.2Selfie 4770mHard-earned smileThe tunnel entrance, 4736mOn the other side of the tunnel, new mountains and a beautiful lakeThe old road above the tunnelAnother, so blue, lake!1Finally we arrive around 3500m near Chacas. Some blue sky and warmth are back.

    Punta Olímpica

    September 23, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    WOW! The mountains are so beautiful this morning!

    The alarm is set at 5:45 to take advantage of the clear morning. The ground is quite soaked after a seriously wet night that clears to stars by 4:00.

    Coffee, tea, hot chocolate, porridge, some fruit, pack our stuff and the heavy wet tent... and off we go with no less than 28 hairpins and, weather permitting, fantastic views of the highest mountains of Peru (see map) awaiting us. At the top at 4770m, we will have a choice to descend through an unlit tunnel, or to continue on the old road up to 4850m. The old road is passable for hikers, and, in principle, for cyclists who can carry bikes over steep landslides... It will only be possible with good enough conditions...

    The views are out of this world for the first hour or so, but soon clouds wrap the top of the mountains, and our summit collection stalls completely. Alice is tired and after about a third of the hairpins, Alain takes on the (wet) tent. We settle into a rythm, but wind and drizzle encourage us to push harder -- probably a mistake.

    Finally we make it to the tunnel. We are cold and go a short way along the old road to shelter for a quick lunch. We can't help a shivering selfie and self congratulations-- we have never been or even imagined being so high with or without bicycles! Sadly, we feel too shattered to try the tough old road in these conditions, so we turn on the lights and reluctantly head through the tunnel. It is cold, dark and much water pisses from the ceiling.

    The beauty of a glacial lake welcomes us on the other side of the tunnel. We manage (don't ask how!) to lose each other for a brief ( but infinitely long) moment during the descent...

    The descent is beautiful, but Alice is seriously exhausted by effort and altitude, and struggles to get down to the superb village of Chacas, where a few days of rest will be de rigueur.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    View from hotel. We crossed somewhere left of the big glacier
    Plaza des Armas with beautiful wood work on all the buildingsThe churchFresco depicting the conversion of the incas to christianity1A local restaurant.

    Chacas

    September 24, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Alice has been struggling with altitude for some time now, and especially the last pass. She is completely wiped and worried that altitude may just not be for her. This is a bit of a problem, as most of Peru is super high. It would mean a radical change to the holiday.

    We decide to abort the planned Huarascán loop and that a visit to the doctor is in order. Soon we find ourselves in a small but welcoming village hospital of Chacas; complete with plenty of locals in their charismatic hats and brightly coloured dresses and shawl.

    We pay up the grand sum of 5 Sol (just over a euro) and are seen by a charming young doctor -- she even speaks english. Then various tests since Alice is concerned about weird sensations from her heart. The main surprise is a very low resting heart beat. It probably means she is rather fit :-). Nevertheless, we are recommended to visit a Cardiologist in Huaraz.

    The next day we visit the pleasant town of Chacas which has lovely woodwork and strong connections with Don Bosco and the Salesian order (Alice´s uncle was a Salesian priest) and investigate getting the bus back over the pass and to Huaraz. It seems the cardiologist will be able to see us as soon as we arrive and Alice will be able to quickly have various tests -- which on this time /price scale and, with the medical insurance giving the thumbs up, is quite an opportunity.

    Breakfast in Peru: In touristy towns hotels often include breakfast. Peruvian breakfast is typically coffee or tea ( with cinnamon and clove), fruit (not-)juice, eggs, rubbish bread and if we are lucky avocado and sometimes even cheese. The rest of the time we self cater, often cooking in our hotel room. Tea/coffee, hot chocolate, bread for Alain and porridge laced with raisins.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1This lady carries this calf as if it were her baby!
    1Breakfast on the hotel's terrasse. Nice view of the Huascarán!Traditional religious figure on this potery1The 6-9th century habitants were shorter than Alain1A three story funeral building1These stones are arranged as carpentry1The material covering the roof (thatch, tiles...) is unknown, but the support structure was stone1Alice seems also very tall!1A huge corner stone1An impressive line of base stones1Scaffolding for new bridge construction.1The bridge was taken away and a large detour is needed1Range of summits from Huascarán Park1Alain sees here the fin of a Humpback whaleAltitude 3800m, a clear torrentAlice at 3850 with the Holter test!

    39 per minute

    September 26, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After two days of rest in Chacas we take bikes and luggage in the bus to Huaraz. This costs 20 Sols (5€) each, no fee for the bikes. It takes three hours, and for the largest part follows the reverse of our recent itinerary, including the tunnel.

    Having found our hotel and deposited the bicycles for a check up at a recommended bike shop, we visit the cardiologist. The echocardiogram is normal, so he equips Alice with a Holter machine for the next 36 hours, to record any anomalies such as arrhythmia.

    The next morning, Holter machine in tow, and with permission, we head out on a day excursion to visit Wilkahuaín (‘grandson’s house’ in Quechua). These restored tombs from the 6th to 9th century, use a stone construction technique that is reminiscent of Marcahuamachuco: walls made with very large stones stabilised by smaller ones. Interestingly the roofs are still in place and supported by very large beams each made of a single stone.

    We continue climbing on a mix of dirt road and concrete road under construction, in a splendid environment. A landslide which has completely destroyed the bridge forces us to execute an elaborate river crossing.

    The next day we get the results from the Holter. It is normal, but Alice does have a very low heart rate (lowest is 39 per minute during sleep). It seems this is typical of serious cyclists and so not surprising given the month long intense exercise to which we have treated ourselves. The conclusion is that Alice’s issues are due to altitude but her heart is not a factor.

    Thus reassured, Alice wants to give altitude a final shot. We decide to continue with the next leg of the planned route, but taking it by smaller daily chunks. The hope is that this will allow Alice to handle the altitude better. Fingers crossed.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1Puya Raimondii, the Queens of the Andes
    1We first follow the Santa river uphill, with striking orange deposits from a tributary.1Above 4000m again (on corrugated dirt...)A laguna amongst the mountains1Another, accessible, thatch and enclosure hamletWe can see the roof construction up close1Another laguna with hot but poisonous watersOur first sighting of Puya Raimondii. Those with tall flower stems are now dead.This young Puya Raimondi has only trunk and leaves and many years to live before bloomA hillside covered with Puya Raimondii11These horses might have the front feet tied up to teach them to jumpHairpins on the way to the wallpaintingsDry stone walls serving as cattle enclosures1Wallpaintings form 200 to 600 CEAncient cartoon?2We are approaching the world of snow and glaciersTuco peak, with a last ray of sunshine1Bivouac at 4600m, facing the Tuco peak 5479m

    The Queens of the Andes

    September 30, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    After five days of rest and doctors, we are back to the summits! From Huaraz the main road is full of speed bumps, trucks, cars, pot-holes and construction - not too enthralling, except for the changing colors of the Santa river. It rains again in the evening but we find a good enough camping spot (3915m) next to a river and a few shepherd huts. Four tiny one room shelters with thatch roofs form the corners of the dry stone wall livestock enclosures.

    It all really starts the next day with the sun! We see the first set of Queen of the Andes, 'Puya Raimondii '. This plant comprises trunk and leaves like a pineapple. A huge stem (10-30m) with several thousands of flowers develops after 30 to 100 years. The flowering and seed production happens only once, lasts a whole year and spreads several millions of seeds.... and then the plant dies. The seeding had better work as it is the unique means of reproduction! As we climb we find hillsides full of these elegant Queens.

    We climb bravely on the gravel/dirt/rock road during this fascinating day where we also admire bubbling springs, wild birds and a huge stone with several wallpaintings. We cover only a short distance but it is a ride packed with beauty and interest .

    This time our camping spot is by the river with snow capped peaks all around. As we pitch it starts to hail. By sleeping at this altitude (4600m) we improve our chances of achieving tomorrow's climbs to the high passes.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1Higher than the Mont Blanc - with glaciers behind
    1Snow/hail has fallen overnight, cold surprise when coming out of the tent!Breakfast at 4600m with fresh snow on the mountains and next to the coffeeThe Pastouri Glacier which has hugely retreated1Into the wilderness1We are headed up here (and its steep)1Look! Another glacier11The stream is coloured pink1Its absolutely deserted.Our road contours upwards across the hill above and ahead1Alice's bike Constance at 4850m with glacier behind1This time we made it higher than the Mont Blanc1Rocks, ridges, everythingSo many huge mountains1We pass a huge range of geologiesHeading up into the cloud1Out the other side... sunshine

    Higher than the Mont Blanc

    October 1, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    It has snowed/hailed in the night and we have a white hexagon surrounding our tent in the morning and fresh snow on the slopes across the valley.

    If we can complete our itinerary today we will have several stretches that are higher than the Mont Blanc (4807m) with our highest pass at 4880m. Alain once more takes the tent to help Alice. We make an early start and we take it very slowly.

    Its very strange pedalling at altitude. For Alice it is not at all as expected - there is just no power or acceleration available when pedalling despite being in bottom gear. It takes almost twice as long to go anywhere. There is a lot of dizziness/wobbliness. Even small things feel shockingly hard work and overdoing it is a very bad plan. But taking it really really slowly, one can get by.

    First leg of the day is to climb past the Pastouri glacier (a tourist destination). It is very much in recession and we are more impressed by the glaciers on the opposite side of the road. We pass over a small col and are completely on our own, mountains all around, glaciers on the huger mountains. The scenery is phenomenal. Of course at this altitude it is also rather nippy. We have two more passes to reach, each a little higher than the one before.

    We take a quick picnic just before the final col in a brief moment of sunshine, then round the mountain and head into the cloud. The rock is black and it is sleeting as we descend in black and white to the col on the main road. Then down in the cloud and rain until we emerge into a beautiful valley and sunshine. Here at 3950m we find a small basic and very chilly room for the night. Peru does not have heating anywhere as far as we can see.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Agriculture in the middle Andies
    1Starting bright and early1In the steep valley sides, many dry walls keep cattle from getting lost, and hold the groundTerraced fields on steep mid slopesWe changed valley, and exposure. Dryer land prevails, stone walls remain.Lots of Eucalyptus were imported during XIXth centurySnowy summits re-appear as we climb back upBack on high grass plains above 4000mLaguna Conococha, the source of the Santa river1Conacocha

    From Pachapaqui to Conococha

    October 1, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    After a rather cold night in Pachapaqui (3950m) we wake up to optimistic sunshine and the view over the junction of two mining valleys. As we continue the descent, a beautiful, typical Peruvian scenery with terraced agriculture quickly appears on the other side. Maybe more than 1000m of altitude is covered by a mosaic of stone walls.

    Around 3500m, we turn off uphill to anther valley, and the climate becomes much dryer, although terraces are still there. Reaching the plateau (4200m), a new set of mountains appear. Then a wide basin and the Laguna Conococha; this is the source of the Santa river, which we have followed since our September 17 "One cañon down..." episode (that seems very long ago!).

    The little crossroad town of Conococha sits a good 100m above the Laguna. It feels cold and windy, especially as we end up waiting a couple of hours for the room keys :-(.

    In this town we discover (one of) the origins of the gunshot noises that have surprised us on several occasions this trip. From our bedroom we hear a loud bang... and go to the window to see, in the field under us, a small group (two men, two women) working hard and exuberantly... on the butchering of a freshly gun-slaughtered pig.

    Tomorrow we will begin a leg of a cycle route called the Peru Great Divide which tries to follow the high Andes north to south.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Contouring steep slopes in and out of cloud
    1Rocky outcrops1Crossing high plateau with isolated walled farmsOur intrepid team member1And the other1The steep slopes are terraced, the high mountains in the cloudApproaching a more cultivated and groomed villageToday water is not missing!Glimpses of what we are missing

    Clinging to the heights

    October 3, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Our route today begins by crossing a high remote grassland plateau with occasional farms and rocky outcrops. It then descends slowly, contouring around steep slopes above even steeper V-shaped gorges below. Its all on dirt and gravel. We pass occasional high remote mud-brick villages with no other access than our road. Its a moody day with plenty of cloud and odd showers, so we see none of the high mountains and sometimes just the cloud.

    The track is virtually empty so its a strange isolated high position. Suspended above the great descents below. We range between 4200 and 3000m. The terrain is so steep that its non-trivial to find a place to stop for the night. We decide to climb to the next tiny village and take our chance there. As we climb the last 200m, it starts to pour.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    2Breakfast with the pigs
    1Camped out of the rain in the village "hall"Before dawn. Sheep in pen, dog watches over1Morning light. Hello sheep! Look at that view...The Yerupajá (6635m), second highest peak in Peru, is briefly visible.1Abandoned mud brick buildings1This is where the villagers who helped us live1Meli and Alain. Opposite them is the fantastic view in the other photos1112Adios Pacocha!

    Pacocha

    October 4, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    This is a story of a cold and wet drama finishing as a meeting with marvelous people.

    It rains hard now, the day was long, our legs tired and our stomach starting to growl. Where can we pitch the tent? The fields are slanted, filled with thorny bushes and stones. It's uphill. Muddy hairpin after slippery hairpin we are approaching the little hamlet of Pacocha where we are hoping to find somewhere flat.

    Here it is, a set of old mud-brick buildings, some of them with a roof. No sign of a soul. In the middle a new construction, bright yellow, with a big porch and a loggia. Maybe we can try there? As we go explore, we notice someone in the next old house. Eye contact; and an older women comes to see who could be out in this rain visiting the new village house?

    Meli and her younger friend come to us, and in answer to our question "can we pitch our tent?" they invite us to install ourselves in the village meeting room. They move the chairs and desk around, and later admire the construction of an Hilleberg tent on a concrete slab -- and there we spend a happy night.

    We are awoken, well before our 5:45 alarm, by life in Pacocha! As we prepare, then enjoy, our breakfast, the whole village passes in front of us: sheep, dogs, pigs, piglets, chickens and finally, the cows. Meli comes several times to enjoy the sunrise, introducing us to the beautiful scene of the Yerupajá and its three summits. She clearly loves this location and we somehow manage to exchange very profound emotions about life.

    We see a total of 6-7 folks in the village, two older women, two middle-aged ones, one man and a young woman, maybe more, but no children. They are all happy to see us, and they have a lot to do. (This morning they are arranging thorns to form a chicken fence).

    Adios, little village! We love you! How long will you survive?    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    2Special award for the best caption to describe this canyon dweller
    1Terraced fields high in the mountainsMorning clouds quickly formA last glance at the great Yerupajà1On the road to Cajamarquilla1Cajamarquilla village1Here comes the canyon1The road is steep and scary without protectionIts a long long way down1Wavy roads make me smileMany colors of rock...Now we can see the bottomSeveral species of cactii1Team work on Cañon road1Not clear who has more vertigo: the photographer or his subject?Another splendid cactus fruitRipples of colour1Camped with the cactii

    Layers of cake

    Oct 4–7, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Alice is starting to think of Peru as a strange scuplted layer cake. On the very top are rugged peaks and glaciers. Beneath that at about 4000m plus there is high wild plateau grassland with livestock grazing and isolated farms. Cows, sheep, horses, llama and alpaccca. Next comes the most populated portion and the more productive agricultural land. At the very bottom are deep steep-sided canyons.

    From Pacocha, we are climbing and contouring once more around the steep terraced slopes that are perched high above the vertiginous canyon.

    Then begins the descent. More than 2000m of it. First down through several more villages. We pause for lunch in the centre of Llippa. As we leave we are suddenly on the rim of another huge canyon. Its thrilling but also a bit daunting. Once we reach the bottom we will have 4 days and 3600m of climbing to get back out. Still, its a marvellous descent with irresistible stops for photos of multicoloured rocks, hairpins and cactii.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    A very precarious bridge that is still being used
    1The bridge is very warped: a pillar has been dislodged by a flood1A chance to fill our bottles. The river water is too muddy to filter11The road somehow finds its way between the walls of the cañon...and finally makes it to a more open confluence1Brightly coloured birds1Some giant in love carved a heart on the cliff1Mules and donkeys are traditional transport in the mountains...1Bicycles are quite rare in comparison. Almost there, Alain1The thermal baths with the local donkeys (view from tent)Across the valley, many hairpins could take us to the most remote placesSetting off the next morning. We briefy see the higher peaks before the usual clouding over1A Tarantula (dead)1The bridge supports could happily swallow a bicycle and rider1Just look at the wonderful hats. Peruvian ladies dress well.Looking back. The thermal baths are way belowLittle orchard in the middle of the cliffs1Now out of the canyon, and back to fields1How to build a fence in Peru

    Warm moments and thermal baths.

    October 5, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    It lovely and warm at the bottom of the canyon. We are back to 1500m of altitude! In fact, its a bit hot for sleeping. We have another problem - the cactii. Despite carefully checking our tyres we have both got punctures. Many of them slow punctures. We fix the most serious one. But it will be several days before we have found all the others - some extra morning pumping exercises for us both!

    We have four days of climbing ahead and we are not in a rush. We descend just a little more and then cross a river to head up the next valley. The bridge is extremely precarious and lop-sided and in need of repair - luckily there is almost no traffic - but it looks like the occasional minibus (local transport) is still using it.

    Today we climb to some natural hot baths where we are allowed to camp nearby. For just over a euro we can access a private bath (hot tub sized) and soak in fabulously warm water. More of a problem is to find any cold (drinking) water- so instead of our normal filtering routine, we resort to buying bottled water.

    Unfortunately Alain is unwell in the night so we have an enforced but much needed rest day. Then its a good day of climbing up to the mountain town of Cajatambo at 3400m. Back to chilly hotels and nights once more.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1
    Looking back down on Cajatambo11We get close to AlpacaOnce again, open grass plains above 4000m1And here are the Llamas1Neat rolled up tail1Golden soil... Peru is so rich in diverse minerals1We made it to todays pass (of course)1This is where we will camp (down by the river) ready for tomorrows climb

    Alpacca and Llama

    October 8, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Day 3 of our climb. Today we will reach the first pass at 4540m. Its just a bit too much for us to reach the highest pass - the last bits of climb at these altitudes are not to be underestimated. Instead we will camp by the river between the passes giving us a good start for the next day.

    We make an extra early start. There are warnings of heavy rain and strong winds. Most days it starts fine and ends up wet - so we hope to make the best of the day and beat the worst of it.

    There is a good climb ahead and we are relieved to be on tarmac and not dirt. We grind up hairpin after hairpin and then reach the high pastures. It seems we will have cute company today. First a herd of well dressed Alpacca, then further up several groups of Llama. 🦙🦙 🦙🦙. No more “where are all the llamas?” questions from Alain.

    Not much further now. Yes, we made it. All we need to do is descend and get the tent up before it rains.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1!!!! such wonderful colours
    1Its a damp grey start to the dayWarm colours, chilly snow1The mines we must climb through1This is a day for the braveWater is source of lifeLuckily we do not follow the track through the snow... but we do share the road1Nearly there1Mt Pishtac 5080m1You have arrived at Punta Chanca 4850m!1Yes!Old cairns marking the pass.And now the descent, it obviously snowed last nightVicuñas1Huge mountains all aroundLava-generated sculpture1We enter a long and profound U-shaped valley1We are graced with a rare sunny afternoon11Entering the gorges leading to Oyon

    Over to Oyon

    October 9, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    The tent is well hidden in the middle of a cow and sheep pasture, next to a raging torrent smelling rather like the field. It's high (4350m), windy, rainy and cold... and altogether beautiful! The morning is grey and drizzly - we push our bikes through the mud, back to the road, with the feeling that this day will be one for the brave.

    The climb to the pass at 4850m is indeed another world, surrounded by snow, lakes and mining trucks who consider that *they* are working. The colors of the nearby peaks probably reflect the reason why mining here is interesting.

    The arrival to the pass, in snow world, is unforgettable, but very soon we turn to the other side, more sunny and colored. A jumping group of Vicuñas catches our eye (look closely at the video, low centre, in full screen). Vicuñas are a wild endagered relative of the Alpaca. A magic volcanic world welcomes us, the descent is a total pleasure.

    Arriving in the Oyon area, we are welcomed by a gentle Peruvian professor of English who wants to practice a few minutes. It's a short, wonderful, and perfectly unexpected encounter.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Our traditional hotel, with washing lines beneath the eaves
    1OyonHeading up from Oyon1View from the tent11

    Leaving the Great Divide

    October 10, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We have been on the move for more than a week so its time for a rest day. Actually its not a rest day (except for our legs) - its a catchup day. There are punctures to fix, washing grubby clothes, drying tent and sleeping bag, cleaning our pans and mats. Then planning our route, attending to admin, catching up on penguins. We need food and dinner and a moment to catch up with friends and family. Its a full day.

    We are at 3600m so we are wearing plenty of warm layers inside or out. Unless the sun shines - when suddenly it lovely and warm. This is a peculiarly of this altitude in Peru. Pedalling in sunshine and we are hot in short and t-shirt. Once the sun goes, we need fleeces, gloves and thick socks.

    We are staying in a small and modest traditional hotel that is often visited by cyclists like us. Like most hotels there is no heating or hot water except in the shower (and its a thumbs up if its hot). I ask if its possible to wash clothes. Yes, she says and points at a low concrete outdoor sink with one (cold) tap. Do you have a washing machine we can use? No, we don’t have one. I look at the lines and lines of drying sheets in the courtyard, rather humbled. Running a hotel at 3600m with only hand washing…

    Our next day is to be a short one. We are now leaving the Peru Great Divide route and heading for the central highlands. For this we need to cross the spine of the Andes heading east. The next pass is too high for a single leg and there are a lot of mines near the top which probably don’t make for good wild camping. So we will have a half day and camp beside a lake, laguna de Patón, that is recommended by other travellers. The road is a bit rough - wide but alternating between concrete plates and muddy gravel. Its grey and then raining and we are sharing the route some heavy duty traffic. Despite the rest day, neither of us are feeling on form and are glad that its a relatively short day today.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1Village kids "helping" Alain with the water filter
    2Morning light on Laguna de Patón1Leaving our lakeside camping spot2Morning reflections and a rare blue skyGetting higher, colder and muddierMine and processing plant beneath our pass1Read that sign (too tired to climb up to it). 4737mComplete change of scenery - back to open rolling plateau1The plateau is around 4000mA solid chunk of mountainFinally we find an area where Alpacas are raised and can be seen in large groups.Showers threaten for much of the dayNo shortage of AlpacaBetween showers we can see the snowy chain of Santa Rosa (5706m)1It's hailing/snowing and the landscape is turning white1Bumping on down. This journey is largely unpaved1Arrived at Uchumarca (3943m). The village kids welcome us and help with the tent!1Water chore, so entertaining!2Off go the kids with Alain - to do a little shopping.1Our tent, sheltered for the night of rain. Water filter in action

    The kids of Uchumarca

    October 12, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    The day begins with beautiful light over laguna de Patón but quickly becomes gray and windy as we make our way through a complicated multi-choice multi-hairpin unpaved/cobbled wet and slippery road in company of huge mining trucks. When we emerge, at 4737m, we are physically tired and nervously exhausted. A large and peaceful plain is next, where a large population of Alpaca and Llama grazes happily, interspaced with the classics, sheep and cows.

    After a few more hours we arrive in Uchumarca, welcomed by a bunch of children all curious to know who we are! They guide us to a shelter near the (adventist) church, where we can praise our tent for the night. Both the kids and us seem thrilled with each other's company!    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Furry friends
    1Road works. This bit is not so bad. We were concentrating too hard to take photos in the worst bits1Lovely open countryside with distant mountains in all directions1This spotted llama has braided colourful ear tags. We often see them on sheep and alpacca too.Mining settlement ponds as we near Cerro de Pasco2Cerro de Pasco on the hill in the distance

    Squelch squish splurch

    October 13, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    We have just 38km to do today. Sounds straightforward huh!? However, its all higher than 4000m with 750m climbing and on a dirt road - this will be enough.

    What we didn’t allow for was road works. Not just a km or so, but almost the entire route. It rained a lot last night so its extremely muddy. Luckily not the “my wheels don’t move anymore” variety. More the “shucks, I really need not to wobble here because otherwise I will be paddling ankle (or worse) deep in it”. There is soup mud, fresh concrete texture mud, slippery slidey mud and pretty much anything else you care to imagine sloppy mud. The road is very wide, but often there is just one tyre width of possibility to sanely get through. Add to that the regular large mining trucks sploshing around, and trying to balance a reasonable route versus not getting in the way of something much much bigger than us. It is the longest, most challenging, muddiest bit of vehicle road we have experienced. We get some admiring cheers from motocyclists who have just done the worst part - and we only fully appreciate why afterwards.

    It's hard going and difficult to admire the otherwise beautiful scenery as our attention is so fixed on the road. By lunchtime, Alain gently proposes to flag down a pickup truck to the next town. We decide to give it a bit longer - and it does improve - with less of the road in a dire state.

    Finally we are climbing the last few km. Cerro de Pasco is a huge mining town at 4350m - the largest settlement anywhere at this altitude. It is distinguished by having a massive mine crater in the middle of the town- into which the rim buildings are subsiding. It is also surrounded by mines, processing and smelting plants, settling ponds, slag heaps and the usual mining mess and environmental consequences. Mining is part of Peru and it’s largest source of income - and many of the fantastic routes we have taken across the mountains would not exist if it were not for the mines. So here we are in the middle of it. The big plus, it has a hotel with ***heating*** - much needed at the low temperatures at 4350m and after days of pedalling.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1The bus with one bike loaded
    This vaccinator is dusted with snow this morningTying on the bikes

    Busing in Peru

    October 16, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We decide to spend one day of rest in Cerro de Pasco, and then to take a bus to Huancayo, thus avoiding busy and narrow roads on the high central plain. Cerro is quite animated, though not really refined. On our first day, we mostly explore the extensive market streets and the old town. Part of the exploration is, of course, to visit the "Ground Terminal Terrestre Cerro de Pasco", where buses leave for Huancayo. We are told we can take the “big” bus (so the bicycles fit in the trunk) at 15:30 tomorrow.

    The next day at 14:50 we are duly at the bus station. We try to buy the ticket - but apparently there is no 15.30 bus today. We can instead take the night bus or a “big” bus tomorrow at 9:30 - for which we should turn up at 8:00.

    We return to the hotel, pay another night...
    ... and at 8:00 the next morning, yet again, no “big” bus, only a minibus with a large roof rack leaving at 9am.

    The bikes get tied up on the roof, this way that way (pretty well actually) and we then squeeze ourselves in with another 15+ people in our minibus. The minibus is absolutely full almost all the way. The moment someone gets off, the driver picks up someone else who is waiting further down the road. It looks like these extra passengers are essentially pocket money (they do not get formally registered as we did).

    Oh yes; seat belts. The driver keeps his seatbelt dutifully fastened... behind his back. When he spots a police check point he deftly pulls the seatbelt over his shoulder. A few minutes later he reverses the operation.

    The ride is actually pretty nice, but the road is indeed narrow and busy. Overtaking is ruthless, Alain feels back in the early 60's in France. We are glad not to be cycling in such company.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    The colonial bridge in Izcuchaca
    The pass is flat and fertile with potatoes being harvestedStarting the descent just over the passOld stone walled fieldsVarious field dispositions, from red or green in plain, to the hill side, supported by stone wallsArriving in the gorge, with lots of cliff colorsThe river gorgeCactus in the gorgeMineral deposits below hot springsA lovely view from our hotel roomMany houses are built of mud bricksThe hotel is along the (disused) railway line

    To Izcuchaca

    October 17, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Huancayo is the 5th largest city in Peru (400K). Given its size, the traffic when we exit from the city is not so bad. We amuse ourselves by jumping the speed bumps much faster than anyone else on the streets, courtesy of our nimble bicycles. Still the road up to the next pass is busier than we ideally like, with plenty of trucks and buses. After a steady 900m of climb we reach a flatish fertile pass with rich brown fields some of which seem to be being harvested for potatoes.

    After that we have a long steady and spectacular descent down to the river Mantaro which will eventually wind its way into the Amazon. Along the valley, we pass mineral hot springs and the associated amusement park. We cross the river next to the old bridge, into the tiny colonial village of Izcuchaca where we find a wonderful hotel along the old railway tracks, with a fantastic room overseeing the river.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Celebrating Saturday, and offering drinks to passers-by.
    Having crossed the valley, we climb again among blooming cactusesIn this village a general farming fair is organisedTypical landscape on the plateau: eroded lava flows, fields and villagesIt is raining here and shining there. It will be our turn!Rainbow over the valleyBivouac behind this little village. There will be dogs...Morning cloudsWonderful play of light and fog.Mineral springs on the way up to HuancavelicaImpressive limestone concretions, arriving in HuancavelicaBeauty and mess live alongside each other in PeruAnother Sunday procession - this time something related to PensionsThe church of San Francesco, XVIIth century.Santa Ana, oldest church in Huancavelica, XVIth century already.Sunday marketSunrise on hills and new constructions from our hotel room in HuancavelicaAfter the big rain in the night, all is clear in the morning on the Plaza de Armas (The Cathedral)

    Huancavelica

    October 18, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    From Iszuchaca to Huancavelica, we will travel 75km from one valley to another, and from village to village on the plateau at around 4000m. On our way out of Iszuchaca, we run into trouble with dogs, as often; unfortunately one of them grabs Alice's calf in his mouth. Lots of adrenaline but fortunately no bite nor damage and we can continue.

    It is Saturday, marked by collective activities: one village, notable for its giant figures posted on the road, holds a lively general market; on route to another village, a travelling party is organized, the young generation dress up and dance on the road, stopping traffic to offer drinks (spirits and beer) -- which of course we cannot accept.

    We stop for the night 20km from Huancavelica, near a little village cemetery. A delegation of friendly villagers soon arrives wanting to talk. Our spanish being limited, they undertake group pictures with great laughter. Once they are gone, we are left on our own with the dogs, very interested in our dinner, and whose language we don't speak either. This is less funny, but we manage to keep them at a distance. We are treated to a little barking concert around midnight, it's also the dogs saturday night, after all.

    After this almost quiet night we restart in the morning with superb play of light and fog... and a puncture. We arrive to Huancavelica from the north side of the valley, welcomed by extravagant formations of limestone deposits.

    Huancavelica is a little colonial city, with several churches from that era. By the time we arrive, the Sunday morning is passed and they are all closed.

    We enjoy our first ever Alpaca steak at a local restaurant next to the Plaza de Armas; stroll in the market on the river bank; and experience a tremendous episode of tropical rain. The next morning all is clear, and beautiful.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    The skies are threatening
    Leaving Huancavelica behindHeads downFinally, this one is prepared to poseBouldery rock formationsOur lunchtime viewOn the high plateauA shepherdhess watches over her alpaca flockAnother mining villageNot sure what makes this beautiful colour in the mine effluentA small mining townPhotos at the police checkpointAnd now the descentThere is blue sly and smiles in the other directiomA rock forestMore rock formationsAs we descend we are intrigued by the finger of rock on the far horizonPassing under a rocky cliff

    Up high again

    October 20, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We are heading up high again and hoping we can manage 1400m of climbing with much of it over 4000m. After the first long ascent, there are 3 decent climbs before the last long descent into the town of Lircay. It makes for a lot of tent swapping to help Alice with the ongoing bike wobble.

    Once we are above 4000m we mainly see Alpacas, Llamas and occasional mining towns. The Alpacas raise their heads and look curiously as we pass- but it's heads down again as soon as the camera comes out.

    On the final summit we are stopped at a police checkpoint. After they have studiously checked our passports, they wish to pose for photos with us!

    The last descent is long and with superb views. Somehow we manage to dodge the showers.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Thatched mud houses on the high plateau
    Peruvian ladies in Lircay marketBright wools and atireOff on a charming little road in the valleyFollowing the river gorgeClimbing up out of the gorgeReaching the 4000m markA rare flower at this elevationLooking back to where we have climbedMine entrance at 4400m. The runoff water colors are a tell tale sign.Colours and mining go hand in handWe arrive near a set of beautiful lakesWe set our tent near the highest lakeInspecting the site for a good tent placePitched for the nightMoonrise at 4500mIn the morning descent in a grand "combe"We descend into a wide river valleyThis hill has a set of high grey organ pipes

    Last pass to Ayacucho

    October 21, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    After a last visit to Lircay's market in the morning, we are off towards Ayacucho. The days program is to climb a small river valley, reach the high pastures and find a camping spot near a lake at 4500m,m.

    The weather, sun, clouds, wind and rain, plays games with our nerves. We keep putting waterproofs on and taking them off. This makes for nice views, especially around the pretty village of Buenavista (4000m) with its well preserved thatched roofs and walls, together with small herds of cows, sheep, alpacas and llamas.

    As we get closer to the top, signs of active mining are joined by intense colors. We camp near a very nice lake, "Laguna Bambamali" under the stars and moon, only to wake up in a thick fog, fortunately rapidly cleared by wind and sun.

    The descent is grand, through a broad valley and a couple of pretty villages, until we reach a large river that takes us to the suburbs of Ayacucho and the long, hot, smelly, noisy and rather steep climb to the center of this lively city.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Local art
    Ayacucho archThe jesuit church, from 1605Contempory Art MuseumContemporary Art Museum (II)Ayacucho cathedralArcades around the plaza de ArmasVenetian tiles in a colonial plaza houseJust off the plaza, colonial buildingsOur bus journey. 11500m of climb which means hairpins all nightThe bus makes a breakfast stop

    From Ayacucho to Cusco

    October 23, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Ayacucho is a big city with a wonderful central square a lively vibrant feel and over 30 churches. Mission 1 is to figure out how to get us and the bikes to Cusco by bus. We call the tourist information. The most likely option seems to be the overnight bus. We purchase our tickets and then set about a little tourism visiting the cathedral and some of the mansions around the main square. Then a really nice lunch - quite a relief after so much repetitive peruvian village food.

    The bus is another adventure. Frustratingly, we have to remove both bicycle wheels. Every piece of luggage requires a label- including the 4 wheels, that is 12 items. The bikes are clumsily and unnecessarily squeezed into a small back part of the bus above the engine. Its painful to watch. Inside the bus we have large wide reclining seats which are really not bad and even Alice manages a little sleep. The route (in the dark) is entirely mountainous and we are winding madly either up or down hill (uphill is slower). Even though speeds are often 30 to 40kmh its a rough ride. Its quite an experience. There is over 11000m of climb and descent and 16 hours to cover 550km. In the middle of the night we encounter a big thunderstorm. The bus splashes through huge puddles and the engine howls through it. Alain wakes up to realize that the bus corridor has become a huge muddy rocking puddle, which unfortunately sloshes over our food supply (which, anyway, we are not eating because the road is way too windy).

    We arrive into Cusco and recover all our bits but the extraction of the bikes is tricky and painful. The bikes still work but bear the scars. :-(.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Cusco, plaza de Armas. The proud Inca emperor Pachacuti.
    ... in front of the CathedralAnother part of the original Inca plaza, separated from the main oneChildren dancing in front of the church of San FranciscoOutside the Mercado (indoor market)An old inca stone lined streetRemarkable modern reconstruction of a traditionally cobbled streetPlaza des Armas at night with new moonAqueduct from colonial time (17th century)Mural paintings depicting a biblical monsterThe same mural into modern times. Peru (red-white red) and Cusco (rainbow) flags are shownTraditional alpaca shepherdThis house is build on Inca foundationsOld colonial balcony- unfortunately the Machu Picchu museum was closed...1Explanation and illustration of the concept of death in Inca culture.The dead were regularly displayed to show their solidarity with the living. Death was not sad.Chronicles of native origin gave precious testimony half a century after the spanish conquestSo we went to the excellent Inca museum. Here a display of native instruments2Video: Demonstration of a musical intrument1Our hotel is in a somewhat unlikely location

    Cusco

    October 24, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Cusco, the capital of the Inca empire!
    Its name means "belly button of the earth", and indeed it sits in a depression between the mountains, at the centre of the Inca empire.

     In the middle of the historical town, on the plaza de Armas stands the statue of Pachacuti, the ninth Inca emperor (?-1471) who established Cusco as the capital.

    Surprisingly, there is a lot more that is left here of the Inca (Quechua) civilisation than one would naively think, considering how the last Inca emperor was ignominiously tricked and killed in Cajamarca. The plaza de Armas itself is part of the old Inca central square, and several of the surrounding streets retain the old Inca walls, many houses still contain parts of old Inca constructions, recognisable by the absence of mortar and the perfect fitting of the stones. Of course the Inca palace has disappeared - its stones were used to build the Cathedral...

    The town center is very touristic, largely as a point of passage on the way to Machu Pichu. We overhear many Spanish speaking tourists, but also from US, UK, France, Netherlands and Germanic Europe, Russian... and more... mostly coasting between souvenirs shops in the very busy streets of the center.

    We are almost alone visiting the Inca museum however, and it is a little marvel. Quite a bit is known of the populations of the Andes long before the Incas took over in the 12th century, and beyond the Spanish conquest in 1533. While westerners were basically busy enslaving the native population for rubber plantations and mining, some of the natives had escaped to remote places where they preserved knowledge of the Inca constructions and traditions.

    We are (just the two of us) treated to a demonstration of replica Inca music instruments. These variously play musical notes, animal and bird calls and a selection of sounds (the glug of emptying a bottle, thunder, etc.).

    We also take advantage of Cusco to explore more refined cuisine: ceviche, special alpaca cuts with a great variety of herbs, Peruvian wine, and some very special desert flavours (including coca leaf powder).    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Irregular but perfectly fitting
    Precision dry stone wallsWith stones of staggering sizeCarefully fitting stones with small lips for transportCarefully cut hole ... for water??1There is only one place for this piece of the puzzleView from the fort back over CuscoThe Modern God is also worshiped on top of the hill: The NetworkThis is across from the zigzags.Foundations of a huge towerLooking back through the zigzagsA zigzag from aboveThis rock is hugeThree layers of zigzag fortificationsAn ibex which reminds us of PatagoniaRock formations that would make a good slideThe best doorwayWhilst they admire the door, we admire their hats

    Zigzags at Saqsayhuaman

    October 25, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Up on the hill above Cusco are the remains of a large and impressive Inca fortress.

    We are both struck by the immense size of the lower stones, some of them much taller than us. But even more so, the quality of the workmanship. These huge stones fit perfectly together. There is no cement or even room for cement. In places there are protrusions which were probably to help with moving the stones. It is not known how such impressive and durable workmanship can be achieved with stones of this size.

    The main fortifications are three layers of zigzags. Only the bases remain as the higher stones were smaller and taken by the spaniards to rebuild Cusco. There are also the foundations of huge towers and several other structures, for which theories appear to vary widely.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    The sacred valley near Pisaq
    Peruvians habitually ignore signs (no litter).Military walls in TambomachayThese wall are a reduced version of those in Saksaywaman !View from TambomachayNative Peruvian treeThe spring of sacred source water in Puka PukaraCrossing the mountainAdmiring the mountains and predicting the rainIt finally chucks it downLooking across to Pisaq and its ruinsPisaq, the nice colonial town, surrounded with Inca landscape and monuments

    From Cusco to the Sacred Valley

    October 26, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    North of Cusco is a steep hill that we climb gently in the early morning with bikes and luggage. It leads to a number of smaller archeological sites with ceremonial or religious, military or celebration of water functions: Q'endo, Tambomachay, Puka Pukara.

    The stonework is much more modest than in Saksayhuaman, but very interesting nevertheless. The sites are very well presented and we note that a great effort is made to preserve the native trees.

    We are now at higher altitudes again with nice cliffs and peaks... and threatening weather. Finally, we arrive above a wide valley with steep sides, and the village of Pisaq, itself surrounded by impressive terraces. Here begins our visit to the sacred valley.    Read more

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