The call of Iceland

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27 мая 2025 г.
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День 1
вторник, 27 мая 2025 г.
☁️ 11 °C
Высота: 8 м
Исландия Reykjavik 64.14576, -21.8746264°8’45” N 21°52’29” W
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Getting started
27 мая, Исландия ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C
Getting started on a cycling trip is often the trickiest part, especially when flying, especially with a bike, and especially when alone. 2 planes, 2 buses, the boxing and unboxing of Maisie (my now 25 year bike)- it makes for a very long day even with everything running to plan. After a night in Reyjkvik campsite and a final bus, it is time to pedal. The trip is underway.Читать далее
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Путешественник But a very nice looking note it is! :-)
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ПутешественникYou are quite right. I was so put out I forgot to notice!
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Путешественник Cool support system for the cyclists!!!
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Путешественник Nice view...!
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The call of Iceland Путешественник
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День 2
среда, 28 мая 2025 г., 10:48
☁️ 9 °C
Высота: 7 м
Исландия Borgarnes 64.559799, -21.91234864°33’35” N 21°54’44” W
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The west coast
28 мая, Исландия ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C
Iceland has already won my heart after just one day. How can one not fall in love with this wild and heart-breakingly beautiful land. I feel it in my bones - somehow at home despite it being so new. The landscapes are dramatic, the light ever changing. The colours are subtle, yet when the sun brightens them, there is a striking vibrancy. The same goes for the sounds. So many evocative cries of sea and moorland birds.
This morning I caught the bus for an hour around the Iceland ringroad to Borgarnes where I start my ride. From there it is relatively flat but with big mountains inland. As the mountains and coast converge the drama increases. Lava fields, volcano stumps, basalt cliffs. And finally a spot to wild camp with amazing views. What a day.Читать далее
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Путешественник Happy journey Alice & Maisie. Iceland looks to be wonderous!
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Путешественник Love the colour coordinated bags!!!
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Путешественник The vibrant colour roofs really stand out in the dramatic countryside. Thanks for sharing the great pics and inspiring me, and surely others to explore Iceland.
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The call of Iceland Путешественник
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День 3
четверг, 29 мая 2025 г., 12:32
☀️ 8 °C
Высота: 4 м
Исландия 64.801582, -23.07489664°48’6” N 23°4’30” W
1 2
Lava flows
29 мая, Исландия ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C
Today I am pedalling along the south coast of the Snaefellsjökull peninsula. The end of the peninsula is a national park (which will be for tomorrow). I start with a visit to the shore to watch the seals. Its not hard to find them. Next comes a mineral spring - which rather disappointingly is a tap. I dutifully taste it (no one else is around, so it is rapidly spat out).
Today I also find a big waterfall over basalt columns, and many impressive lava fields. Brimming over a mountain ridge and cascading into the valley. They are covered in a pale and delicate grey green moss- which we are not supposed to disturb or trample upon as it is very fragile.Читать далее
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Путешественник Gorgeous and so peaceful
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Путешественник Love your dinner table to the left of the photo!
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ПутешественникI only wish it was warm enough out to use it. Plus there was the minor issue of the Arctic terns which were rather intimidating.
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ПутешественникIt's stunning terrain and some of it feels somewhat Narnia like.
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День 4
пятница, 30 мая 2025 г., 02:00
⛅ 5 °C
Высота: 23 м
Исландия Snæfellsbær 64.768349, -23.6347664°46’6” N 23°38’5” W
This is for Clare
30 мая, Исландия ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C
This is for Clare, who would have turned 60 today. Clare, who was daughter, sister, wife, mother and friend to many. Friend to me. With whom I have shared so much, including my early adult adventures.

Clare, who left earlier that we wanted, hoped for, expected. Clare, who is missed so much, by so many. Clare, who is remembered. With gratitude and with love. Clare, whose life deserves to be celebrated. Clare, who I think of, as I explore this wonderful country. Clare, who I miss sharing my penguin posts with.

Happy 60th Birthday dear friend.Читать далее
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What a lovely tribute Alice.. it‘s such a tough day as we miss my wonderful sister all the more today.. and so wish we could have shared her 60th birthday with her …the photos from your trip are amazing - thanks for sharing and have fun❤️ [Michelle]
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ПутешественникA worthy tribute to your longtime and much-missed friend.
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ПутешественникClare was lucky to have you, Alice, in her life for as long as she did.
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Путешественник😪
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The call of Iceland Путешественник
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День 4
пятница, 30 мая 2025 г., 14:59
☀️ 8 °C
Высота: 12 м
Исландия 64.862823, -24.04042264°51’46” N 24°2’26” W
Snaefellsjökull
30 мая, Исландия ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C
Today I am exploring the Snaefellsjökull national park. Snaefellsjökull is the big 1446m peak in the centre. Its considered an active volcano- but hasn’t done much since 200AD when the top of the mountain exploded and then caved in leaving a crater that now contains a glacier. Its a rather shy mountain and usually hides in a cloud.
I’m not heading up the mountain but I am exploring the coastline. No camping is allowed in the national park so I need to pick and choose and fit it into a single day. The highlight spots are popular with plenty of other tourists. But in between its pretty quiet and I have the big skies and vast landscapes to myself. Snaefellsjökull obviously produced quite some quantity of lava. It varies in colour and texture and (before investigating the hostory) I wonder just how long it has taken to grow the moss and other plants. I am a bit surprised to look it up and find that it is centuries of work.
The number of things to see is astonishing and it takes courage to pass by several and pick just a few. I am rather weary (unfit!) from the previous few days. I enjoy visiting the mini volcano and 2 sets of bird cliffs. Plus the lava, the cliffs, the views…Читать далее
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What an amazing adventure Alice - I’ve never seen such unspoilt nature! [Michelle]
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Fantastic. [Sonia]
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The call of Iceland Путешественник
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День 5
суббота, 31 мая 2025 г., 00:28
⛅ 6 °C
Высота: 8 м
Исландия Ólafsvík 64.888382, -23.68821164°53’18” N 23°41’18” W
1 1 2
The changing light
31 мая, Исландия ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C
The lighting in iceland is wonderful (at least when the sun peaks through). It never really gets dark although the sun does set. Luckily I remembered to bring my eye mask with me.

Tonight sunset is 23.40 and sunrise 03.20. I prefer to be asleep at these times, but early this morning just after midnight I woke and saw the after glow of the sunset. It hasn’t been possible earlier in the trip- this is the first night that I am on the north coast!
The beauty of the north coastline is arresting. The mountains are much closer to the sea. I am particularly enraptured by all the different layered colours of green on one of the mountains. I guess indicating different mineral content in the different geological layers.Читать далее
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ПутешественникBeautiful
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ПутешественникIceland looks stunning Alice! The light and seemingly endless days remind me very much of visiting the Shetland Islands...☺️
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ПутешественникTrust you to pack an eye mask!!! Clever traveller you are!!
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День 6
воскресенье, 1 июня 2025 г., 11:31
☁️ 7 °C
Высота: 35 м
Исландия Grundarfjarðarbær 64.951584, -23.15879664°57’6” N 23°9’32” W
Beserkseyrará
1 июня, Исландия ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C
Today is a short day into Stykkisholmur ready for the ferry across to West Fjordland tomorrow morning. In fact, I am already in the Fjords :-). Its a cool blustery showery day but luckily the wind is behind me.
The next Fjord I reach is wild and empty but has been the scene of many dramas. One of the famous icelandic sagas had its origins here. More recently there were huge mass deaths of herring in the fjord in 2012 and 2013 due to herring overwintering and too many herring in a limited area - causing oxygen levels to drop.
My next adventure is a side road through the the lava fields. More types of lava - and more colours. Its very striking, as well as pretty.Читать далее
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День 7
понедельник, 2 июня 2025 г., 10:10
🌬 5 °C
Высота: 28 м
Исландия Stykkishólmur 65.073357, -22.72255765°4’24” N 22°43’21” W
2 1 1 2
Weather and limits
2 июня, Исландия ⋅ 🌬 5 °C
Its a big shift in the holiday. The weather has changed. I realise a little late that the wind speed units are m/s and not km/h and that the forecast headwinds are in fact 50-70km/h. Plus snow. Serious weather - never mind being on a bike in it. After an emergency dither, I decide to take the already paid for ferry. Although I am really not sure whether this is a good plan.

On the ferry, there are 3 more cyclists in the same predicament- one has already booked a night indoors. In the end all of us decide that it would be wiser not to camp out in high winds and snow - and I book a room where Guenter is staying whilst the 2 girls stay a little further along the coast. Its good to be inside, but it still does not resolve the issue of what next. With headwinds of 50 plus and a coastline like a load of fingers its impossible to not have long stretches into the wind, never mind the snow showers. Up against my limits, I wish more than usual that I was not travelling alone. On the other hand, it is not just me who prefers some company in the circumstances.Читать далее
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Путешественник Worth the trip!!!
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Путешественник Aaaw! The lambs look very happy to be fed :-)
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Путешественник❤️
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День 8
вторник, 3 июня 2025 г., 11:26
🌬 2 °C
Высота: 103 м
Исландия Vesturbyggð 65.493454, -23.2561865°29’36” N 23°15’22” W
Heading back :-(
3 июня, Исландия ⋅ 🌬 2 °C
After much deliberation and with no shift in the weather forecast overnight, Guenter and I decide we will return on the ferry and then probably retrace our steps. The snow has not materialised at sea-level - though there is snow on the hillsides and it is cold and odd flakes blow by. I am reassured to learn that the icelanders think it should not be snowing in June. Still, its pretty dissappointing to need to turn around.

We wander up the hillside behind the guesthouse and visit a gentle waterfall. Then its a hard blustery struggle into the wind. A completely different experience to the sunny sail in the other direction yesterday. By the time I reach the Ferry-landing, exhausted, at least I am convinced of the infeasibility of cycling any serious distance in this wind.

Behind the work buildings, we discover a stunning shell beach. And by the time the ferry comes in we are frozen to the bone. It is a comfort that tonights campsite has a lovely warm kitchen that we can shelter in.Читать далее
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ПутешественникThanks Alice for the common adventure
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ПутешественникGood thinking to change plan - ever the sensible and pensive traveller.
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День 9
среда, 4 июня 2025 г., 10:48
🌬 4 °C
Высота: 50 м
Исландия Dalabyggð 65.007309, -21.88862265°0’26” N 21°53’19” W
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Sideways on
4 июня, Исландия ⋅ 🌬 4 °C
The good news is that I am off again- and with Günter for company. The objective is to head east and hope that this is feasible given the continued strong northerlies. Also good news is the excellent surface quality of the gravel road (to hold firm against the wind). Less good is that its cold, draughty and jolly hard work.

A major challenge on todays route is a 10km leg where we have to head north instead of east - dead into the wind. Its also uphill. Its not just me who is suddenly blown sideways across the road or simply brought to a standstill. Its exhausting.

The landscape is empty and wild and reminiscent of scotland. There are dustings of snow on all the hills and we are easily chilled despite many layers. We could so do with finding a tea shop to warm up and be in shelter. But there is absolutely nothing here.

Lunchtime sees us manage to hide in the nook of the church porch, where Günter produces a very welcome and much needed hot tea. Its so good to have cheery company on this challenging day.
On we go, sideways into the wind, on the gravel, until I find I am totally out of batteries. Then the question is where to stop to be a little out of the wind. Günter goes on a search and eventually we find a small grassy hollow not far from a pretty river “canyon” and turn in for the night.Читать далее
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ПутешественникTake care and keep safe.. what an adventure😘
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Путешественник❤️
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ПутешественникSo glad Gunter and his magic teapot where there with you!!!
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День 10
четверг, 5 июня 2025 г., 10:47
☁️ 4 °C
Высота: 8 м
Исландия Búðardalur 65.097519, -21.75300265°5’51” N 21°45’11” W
1 1
The wind continues (and I dont)
5 июня, Исландия ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C
I am not feeling great this morning and the wind is still a battle. At 11 we arrive in a tiny town with cafe, supermarket and campsite. The next leg is 40km into the wind and the next campsite is out of reach. I make the tricky decision that I should stop here and rest, whilst Günter will carry on. I am sorry to say goodbye.
The next day it is my turn to head over the moor into the wind. Its a long slog. The promised drop in the wind and increase in temperature does not materialize. Nor does the sun. Its 1 degree and blowing hard and completely exposed. I try sheltering for a snack in a holllow - which is the best I can find. The sheep have also obviously had the same idea so it is decorated with sheep poo. Even once I am on the top the wind does not give up and I still need to pedal… downhill. But eventually I am around the corner whizzing with the wind and in no time at all I arrive at the ring road, the petrol station and the bus stop. Success.Читать далее
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ПутешественникThat was quite a battle Alice! Thank you for sharing your adventures, and I hope you have found somewhere warm and comfortable to rest this evening :-)
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ПутешественникIt must have been hard but brave to say goodbye to your companion. So relieved to read the successful ending!!! You are amazing Alice.
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Путешественник Love the arms up in the air!!! A true indication of success!!!
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Путешественник Brrrrr!!!
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День 12
суббота, 7 июня 2025 г., 10:37
⛅ 4 °C
Высота: 25 м
Исландия Blönduós 65.661133, -20.26511865°39’40” N 20°15’54” W
Heading for the highlands
7 июня, Исландия ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C
My bus leg means (1) there is now the option to travel with the wind and (2) I have caught up with Günter. Günter has spotted that the route across the highlands (the centre of Iceland) has just opened. Most routes in this area have fords and are not accessible yet, but this route has bridges:-). Still its a gravel route, running in between two of iceland icecaps - so its not nothing. Its not really recommended to travel in the highlands alone and we are both keen to give it a try - and to do it with company.

So after I stock up with several days food we are on our way. The sun is shining, the wind at our back, and we can see the mountains properly once more. Dusted in fresh snow. Its wonderful to whizz and not grind.
By lunchtime we are starting to climb, its also getting colder and greyer. We soon pass a fancy hydroelectric plant. We spend the rest of the day cycling past moorland lakes and end up camping beside the top feeder reservoir. Above it is essentially wide empty bleak moorland and it’s surprisingly flat. The gravel is excellent and we make good progress, now with views of two of icelands ice caps in the far distance. We pitch on a tiny beach by the reservoir. Its near zero and very chilly in the strong breeze. Günter looks after me and makes many trips to collect large stones to hold the pegs firm in the light sand.Читать далее
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День 13
воскресенье, 8 июня 2025 г., 14:20
☁️ 5 °C
Высота: 617 м
Исландия Húnabyggð 64.875427, -19.52312364°52’32” N 19°31’23” W
Hot springs in the highlands
8 июня, Исландия ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C
We are off again across the highlands. Its cold, grey, draughty and bleak - but also wild, huge and wonderful. The vegetation gets less and less, and it is soon just a large lava field (this time mainly small rocks) and the gravel road (which is getting rougher) with fine mountains in the distance and (when we can distinguish it from the cloud) the ice caps on either side.

Todays destination is Hveravellir which is a refuge/ campsite/ hot spring area in the middle of nowhere. We arrive in good time and enjoy being able to sit in the hut in the warmth. Then its a wander around the hot springs and finally a dunk in the outdoor hot pool. I can recommend being in the pool. However I am considerably less enthusiastic about getting in and out in near zero and windy conditions.

We have nice cyclist company this evening. Two german girls, 3 yorkshire lads and an austrian. They are all heading the opposite direction to us. It seems that the road ahead is rougher and tougher. An American we passed earlier suggests 20 to 30 km are difficult. The warden suggests 40km and the Austrian says it is the hardest 70km he has ever done. We are getting a little nervous.

As I go to bed it starts to snow…Читать далее
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День 14
понедельник, 9 июня 2025 г., 19:15
☁️ 6 °C
Высота: 458 м
Исландия Bláskógabyggð 64.609299, -19.70369564°36’33” N 19°42’13” W
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Harsh conditions on the Kjölur route
9 июня, Исландия ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C
It snows in the night. The tent sags with the weight so I kick it the snow off (from inside) whenever I turn over. Not only have we got a rough road ahead, but now there is snow too. Plus Günter has a puncture that is a pain to fix. Its a daunting start to the day.

I make a quick round of the springs in the snow saying Hi to my favourite fiesty spring. Luckily the snow is already showing signs of melting a little, so it starts to looks hopeful that we can progress today.

Its another cold, breezy, sunless day. The road is rough and requires concentration, but we steadily tick off the km, stopping regularly for a rye bread snack whenever we can find a large boulder to “shelter” behind - setting off again as soon as we can since keeping warm is a challenge. I am wearing 2 pair’s of socks, shorts, 2 pairs of trousers plus waterproof trousers and overshoes (for warmth against the wind), then blouse, 2 thin sweaters, 2 fleece layers, windshell and waterproof, hat, helmet and 2 pairs of gloves. Its harder to pedal than usual!

Despite the harsh conditions and the complete lack of any facilities, its a wonderful wonderful place to be. A unique experience and a place for special memories. Having company in this isolation and a shared adventure is an integral part of the whole experience. We are sufficiently alone that it becomes comforting that we are occasionally passed by a vehicle.

Finally we are heading down, the sky is clearing and we reach an idyllic camping site (closed but useable). We are far enough along our route, with the roughest bit over with, so are feeling more confident (plus warmer in the sunshine). We make several journeys down the hillside to the river below to collect buckets of water (for the toilets!) and get everything in good shape. Then its time to enjoy the beauty and the evening sunshine.Читать далее
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ПутешественникWhat an amazing adventure Alice. I'm glad there are others to share this with. There is something very beautiful about the bleakness.
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Путешественник❤️
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Путешественник It really could be another planet...What an incredible journey!😲
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День 15
вторник, 10 июня 2025 г., 10:30
☁️ 7 °C
Высота: 291 м
Исландия Bláskógabyggð 64.431458, -20.00872464°25’53” N 20°0’31” W
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Mission accomplished
10 июня, Исландия ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C
At last we have sunshine. Its still cold. The tents are icy and I have little icebergs in my water bottles when I wake.

We are quite close now to the Langjökull ice cap and also within reach of civilization. Soon we reach the end of the “impassable” section of the road - but with quite a bit more gravel to go. However now we must share with a number of monstrous off road tourist vehicles - high and with huge wheels, destined to take people for a ride on the glacier. On the whole they are not so kind to us (with the odd exception). Then suddenly (and earlier than expected) we are back on tarmac. Its such an exciting moment after several days on gravel. We are very pleased with ourselves - so a little photographic celebration is in order!Читать далее
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ПутешественникAn awesome achievement Alice and Günter! ☺️
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I’m so impressed - what a journey and special memories that will remain for ever - Clare would have loved your story and been sooo proud of her best friend💕💕 [Michelle Marinow]
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Путешественник❤️
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День 15
вторник, 10 июня 2025 г., 14:25
☁️ 10 °C
Высота: 186 м
Исландия Bláskógabyggð 64.327583, -20.12152364°19’39” N 20°7’17” W
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Gullfoss and Geysir
10 июня, Исландия ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
From wilderness we catapult into mega tourist land. It feels rather strange and whilst its good to be out of the emptiness, the contrast is a bit too much.

On the other hand, despite the tourists, Gullfoss is staggering. Its huge and powerful and totally exceeds expectations.

Next its time to visit Geysir (the original) , which these days hardly ever erupts, and its smaller but more active friend Strokkur. We camp just next to the site, so are able to wander around after dinner when its quieter.

Its the last evening I will be with Günter. Tomorrow he will head off early as he needs to get to Reykjavík for his flight home. I have really enjoyed the time with him, sharing the adventures across the highlands. We have done well as an impromptu team. I am grateful to have this time sharing special moments with this kind, friendly (and incredibly strong) man - who I hope I will bump into once more on a future journey.Читать далее
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ПутешественникI am sure he enjoyed it as much as you!!! Having company to share adds a new element to travelling 😀
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Путешественник Impressive!!! Ignore my other comment about a real waterfall. This is the real thing!!!
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Путешественник Cool... makes me feel nostalgic for NZ!!!
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Путешественник Great capturing of the moment!!! Hope you did not have to wait too long!!!
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The call of Iceland Путешественник
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День 16
среда, 11 июня 2025 г., 13:52
🌧 9 °C
Высота: 72 м
Исландия Laugarvatn 64.214508, -20.7307764°12’52” N 20°43’51” W
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A quiet day
11 июня, Исландия ⋅ 🌧 9 °C
It feels very quiet back on my own again. I set off SW and visit a waterfall. Its a very impressive waterfall - but compared to Gullfoss it falls a bit flat. I am also somehow not too impressed with how my route is turning out- so I change plans heading more westerly. Its getting greyer wetter and windier.

In this area of Iceland, there are often plumes of steam to be seen. Some of these are being used as geothermal power. 30% of icelands power comes from geothermal (and 85% from renewables).

In Laugarvatn I find a cafe selling rye bread that has been cooked in the hot spring. Its delicious (and excellent value) so I pass a gentle moment in the warmth before deciding that I may as well call it a day and camp in the village.Читать далее
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Путешественник Wow...
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ПутешественникWhat a find...yummy and reasonably priced rye bread and a place to rest. Clever you!!! You have been stella throughout this Madame Incredible!!!
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Путешественник Now that is a real waterfall!!
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Путешественник This reminds me of the NZ geothermal area.
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The call of Iceland Путешественник
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День 17
четверг, 12 июня 2025 г., 09:21
☁️ 8 °C
Высота: 172 м
Исландия Bláskógabyggð 64.197571, -20.88016364°11’51” N 20°52’49” W
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Þingvillar national park
12 июня, Исландия ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C
A þ is actually a th. So it is sometimes written Thingvillar. But I beleive ll is not pronounced how we might expect…. Its super easy to be rather lazy in Iceland. All the icelanders speak excellent english. And mainly I meet tourists in any case.

Þingvillar national park marks a very visible point of divide (separation) between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. The main tourist focus combines a large fissure with the historical setting of the icelandic parliment (the Alþingi) which operated here from 930 AD to 1798. So there are historic remains of booth structures which were built as shelter by visiting chieftans. It is also the place where christianity was adopted around 1000AD.

Iceland formally separated from Denmark and became a country in 1944 (slightly delayed by WW2). The ceremony of the forming of Iceland also took place place here. Iceland was also occupied by the british during the war in an effort to prevent the Naziis from taking over. They build the small city airport in Reykjavík (which is not the same as the international airport).

The land on which the Alpingi operated is sinking as the plates divide. In the last 10000 years it has dropped 40m and the plates have moved 70m appart. Since the Alþingi was formed it has dropped 4m. This means that the current lake is much closer than it would have been at the time. And already some of the history is below water
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The impressive canyon or fissure that is the main visitor focus is a simplification. There are smaller fissures everywhere and the European plate is 7 km away with a sort of no mans land plate (a microplate) in between. The nearest volcano to this rift valley has not been active for a very long time and this explains why the rift is so unusually visible.

Þingvellir is gently teaming with tourists - I guess they are neatly contained in one small corner of the park leaving the rest to quietly get on with its life.Читать далее
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Путешественник Fascinating how Iceland has evolved, and how little knowledge I had before reading your brilliant daily posts Alice! :-)
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The call of Iceland Путешественник
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День 18
пятница, 13 июня 2025 г., 11:01
☀️ 13 °C
Высота: 8 м
Исландия Eyrarbakki 63.864571, -21.15781463°51’52” N 21°9’28” W
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South to the coast
13 июня, Исландия ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
I want to arrive in Reykjavik in 3 days time. My calculations are complicated because of the wind - which keeps strengthening during the day, and switching direction to “always” be a head wind. My plan is to head south to the coast, west along the coast and then cross through a Geopark and back into the capital

To try and beat todays winds, I am up at 6.30. I manage to get the first 57km out of the way by lunch although the wind is getting more noticable. The first leg is beautiful and very quiet- along the shore of þingvallavatn (the Þingvillar lake). I reach an area of newer lava and of geothermal activity (and power stations). I also rather take to the aptly named river Sog with its 3 hydropower stations. The next leg is busier and with more trucks and wind. I cross the main Iceland ringroad and a Selfoss, an uninspiring second largest town.

By this stage I am tired and from here I am crawling into the wind for the final long 12 km. Its very flat but as it’s against the wind the advantage is little. I am happy to call it a day in a village by the sea that was once used as a port but never quite made it.Читать далее
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Путешественник Very peaceful....
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Путешественник The icefield?
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The call of Iceland Путешественник
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День 19
суббота, 14 июня 2025 г., 08:26
☀️ 9 °C
Высота: 173 м
Исландия Hafnarfjordur 63.89502, -22.0553363°53’42” N 22°3’19” W
Reykjanes Unesco Global Geopark
14 июня, Исландия ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C
Yet again the wind is due to be strong, this time from 10am - so its an early start again, plus I modify my plans as I am already tired from pushing hard yesterday. The first 15km is not so bad, but after that its a demoralizing grind. I have a geothermal park to cross today - but this means that I will not be allowed to wild camp- which forces me to go all the way through before I stop - and that is a bit further than I really want to go.

As the wind is due to peak and then decline again towards the end of the afternoon, I decide to take plenty of breaks. Which I need anyway as I am pretty tired.
First there is a bigger modern harbour town. Luckily this also means that I will no longer be meeting large lorries.

Then I visit a tiny shore village which I rather like. There is a seal on the lava rocks and a little church and sunshine.

Then its a serious haul to get into the geopark. At least once I am there, there are good excuses for stopping. First comes a borehole 2.5km deep which is hoping to test if geothermal power is possible. Then there is a turquoise lake (that did not photograph well) and a set of hot springs and fumaroles with some pretty gunky looking pools. I am amused to read that in the 1700s someone tried to drill to find sulphur but the borehole erupted . Then in the 1900s another person also drilled. And that one erupted too. I hope the modern borehole fares better.

From there there is a leg along the lake (up down up down up down) with black lava to the left and red to the right.

I am now desperate to stop and have identified a small footpath just over the edge of the park boundary. Its a bit of a long shot as its through a rough lava field. But as I am now getting close to Reykjavik - and I am mega tired - it seems best to try. I manage to find a small area which is flat and moss covered and away from the road. The moss is very deep, very dry and very fragile. I do my best not to damage it- but its hard not to leave footprint indents. Still, maybe camping on lava when in Iceland is an appropriate ending to my trip?Читать далее
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The call of Iceland Путешественник
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День 20
воскресенье, 15 июня 2025 г., 10:57
☁️ 10 °C
Высота: 13 м
Исландия Hafnarfjordur 64.045219, -21.98019864°2’43” N 21°58’49” W
And back to Reykjavik
15 июня, Исландия ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
From my mossy lava-bed campsite, it is really not far to the outskirts of Reykjavik. Which is good news as my legs are weary.
Reykjavik feels very quiet for a city. The centre is gently nice, the suburbs full of appartment blocks. Bits of lava are to be found everywhere. The setting by the sea with views across to mountains helps.

I wander the streets and decide to visit the national museum of iceland to try to understand a bit more of the history. Iceland was first settled from around 700AD, it appears by Norse men bringing british (celtic) slave women. Iceland is considered to have had one of the earliest parliments which started in 930 AD (the Alþingi that I visited a few days ago). The governance involved 39 areas of land over which chieftans ruled. These were all around the edge of iceland- the centre being too harsh to be habitable (this has not changed much).

Its time to head back after my memorabl trip to this amazingly wild and beautiful and quiet country. Maisie is boxed up, the buses booked. It turns out I am leaving on the annual independence day after 81 years of modern iceland.Читать далее
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17 июня 2025 г.