Harsh conditions on the Kjölur route

It snows in the night. The tent sags with the weight so I kick it the snow off (from inside) whenever I turn over. Not only have we got a rough road ahead, but now there is snow too. Plus Günter has a puncture that is a pain to fix. Its a daunting start to the day.

I make a quick round of the springs in the snow saying Hi to my favourite fiesty spring. Luckily the snow is already showing signs of melting a little, so it starts to looks hopeful that we can progress today.

Its another cold, breezy, sunless day. The road is rough and requires concentration, but we steadily tick off the km, stopping regularly for a rye bread snack whenever we can find a large boulder to “shelter” behind - setting off again as soon as we can since keeping warm is a challenge. I am wearing 2 pair’s of socks, shorts, 2 pairs of trousers plus waterproof trousers and overshoes (for warmth against the wind), then blouse, 2 thin sweaters, 2 fleece layers, windshell and waterproof, hat, helmet and 2 pairs of gloves. Its harder to pedal than usual!

Despite the harsh conditions and the complete lack of any facilities, its a wonderful wonderful place to be. A unique experience and a place for special memories. Having company in this isolation and a shared adventure is an integral part of the whole experience. We are sufficiently alone that it becomes comforting that we are occasionally passed by a vehicle.

Finally we are heading down, the sky is clearing and we reach an idyllic camping site (closed but useable). We are far enough along our route, with the roughest bit over with, so are feeling more confident (plus warmer in the sunshine). We make several journeys down the hillside to the river below to collect buckets of water (for the toilets!) and get everything in good shape. Then its time to enjoy the beauty and the evening sunshine.Read more