Kayaking and Frostbite

Our fourth day in San Seb. It was the coldest of the lot, and this is the day we decided we would go kayaking. We had a little paddle to the Isla de Santa Clara which would have been beautiful and lovely other than for the fact that the kayak-mooring area was a swim away from the island, and with only our bikinis to shield us from the grey skies and icy winds I have to say I didn’t fancy staying on the island for long. We swam, we saw, we swam back to the kayak, and the fact I am still alive and lost no extremity to frostbite is a testament to how far I have come in my battle with cold-management.

Back on the beach, towel wrapped around me, shivers rattling my bones, GC pointed to Monte Igueldo, another little spot we’d been recommended, and being obsessed with mountains and anything potentially panoramic, I was all for it. We got on the little tram (a very affordable €8 return) and up we clattered to a small theme-park atop the mountain. By theme park think closer to a fair, small rides which look like they’re about to fall apart but hold strong year after year. Haunted houses, tiny roller-coasters, bumper-cars, and a gorgeous place to wander, observe, and enjoy.

The absolute piece de resistance on this mountain though was the Marriot Hotel. I know, I know, it’s not a name that is instantly associated with that bougie lifestyle. But the bar at this place? Floor to ceiling. Glass. Walls. And all around? Endless, endless ocean, blue, and beautiful, and nothing else. The image of the place is absolutely seared into my mind, it is the epitome of the reading room I dream to have some day. Not the huge lounge with the lounge-chairs and the bar (although, why not) but the open-views, where be it day or night, summer or winter, I can curl up in a chair with a book, look up, and see nothing but an endless expanse of ocean and an infinite horizon. That’s the dream.

Dinner that night was another hit. Txubillo, a Basque-Japanese fusion restaurant, absolutely blew my mind and it will definitely be a place I return to when (when!) I come back to San Seb. Again, the venue is small, and it did get loud (although we happened to be there on a night were there were two 10-person-parties having a fabulous but loud night). Still we didn’t struggle to hear each other, and the food was delicious. It wasn’t the cheapest we’d had, but it was hardly expensive either, and it was definitely, definitely, worth it. The portions were also a little smaller, but the quality was absolutely spectacular, and despite the waitress and owner being the only two people there there (I died) they were always flawlessly polite, friendly and helpful. Guys, I really can’t praise this place enough.

And off to bed we went, because like every night we had over-indulged in food, and although not uncomfortable, the drowsiness that comes after food alongside the comfort of our beds drew us back to the hostel, and into slumber-land.Read more