Jabet Peak

We started the morning at Port Lockroy. It is the site of an old British Antarctic Survey (BAS) hut, which has been restored to its original condition and serves as a museum. The kitchen is stocked with era-specific dry goods, the lab with old equipment, and the bunks with woolen underwear. The re-creation is tasteful and informative. It quickly gives you an appreciation for the tenacity of the individuals who wintered here. The whole hut was probably about 1000 sf, so there couldn't have been much alone time. I like my co-workers, but I think I would be homicidal in about six months under those conditions.

It was a special day all around. First we had the Polar Plunge after Lockroy. A rite of passage for anyone visiting the Polar Regions (or Boulder Reservoir in the spring). I was shocked that Kim didn't even hesitate to join in. As a matter of fact, she was the first one on the ship to leap. I went immediately after and when we hopped back on the boat, the awaiting crowd cheered. There was a line of 63 other passengers, who congratulated us, as we hustled down the hall to a hot shower. Once we thawed, we went to the deck to watch other passengers plunge. Apparently, bathing suits became option, at some point. I can say that I have had my fill of twenty-something, naked boys with their GoPros. Regardless, it was a great time, and all the passengers either participated or watched. One of the crew said we broke the old record and had the most people plunge (63 of 122 passengers). There were so many participants, we finished about a half an hour behind schedule.

Following our morning activities, the kitchen staff pulled out the grill again. This is the first day without snow, and the sun has been shining brightly. Now that we can see our surroundings, the views are even more stunning than when they were shrouded by clouds. We passed through a channel after lunch, where the mountains rocketed upward from the sea. The peaks have dramatic windswept glaciers with deep drifts of snow clinging to the cliffs. We saw a couple of avalanches roaring down valleys all the way to the ocean. They looked impressive from a distance, so I can't imagine how powerful they must have been. While transiting the channel, we saw a pod of Antarctic killer whales (Type B). These orcas are a gray color, with a smaller dorsal fin, and larger eye patch. They surfaced several times before heading down the waterway and out of sight.

We arrived at Orne Harbor around 4:30 pm. It is a quiet area surrounded by high glaciated peaks. We climbed the eastern face of one of the slopes via a multitude of switchbacks. It appeared to be about a 30-35 degree incline for about 1000 feet. It reminded me of the final push up Kilimanjaro, from the crater to the rim; you don't look down, and you pray you don't slip. But there was a good reason to risk our lives: chinstrap penguins. These crazy little beasts nest at the top of the craggy cliffs. We took our time with the penguins, who are more vocal than the other two types we've seen. We watched a few march straight up the mountain face, foregoing any switchbacks. They are amazing mountaineers. We stood in the saddleback and could see both coast on the peninsula. Each side accentuated with frozen peaks standing sentry over their waters.

The day finished with "Western Night" in the lounge. I've lived in Colorado for 45 years, so the West isn't a novel idea; although, I did realize I know a heck of a lot more about the cattle industry than I'd like to admit. It think it's the unfortunate combination of attending an ag university and working in Greeley all those years. And they thought the penguin rookeries smelled bad...Read more