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Rolling on Europe
  • Arjun
  • Arjun

Rolling on Europe

Rolling about the continent looking for an exit. Lue lisää
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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeMatkaaja
    Domène from the hill above
    Marcel & Alexie take us to their secret cabaneEnjoying some aloo dhum togetherBeautiful trails leading off from the town centerMy route will be the rainiest place in Europe for the next 10 days. Where do I go now?

    Domène d'Elodie

    5.–8. toukok. 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    I thought it would be good to have some company and looked for a host. Elodie offered a place right away and so I rode to Domène to be greeted by her and her boys Marcel & Alexie.

    With Elodie, it was like being with a good old friend I just had not met yet. We spoke of travels, her two-year bicycle tour, of families and friendships won and lost, and many things in life. We cooked and ate and walked and talked more. A wonderful home to be off the road.

    It started to rain and... it rained on. So I stayed on and on... for 3 nights. A good amount of it watching the weather build up - my planned path will be the rainiest place in Europe for the next 10 days.

    So where do I go now?    Lue lisää

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    Wake up Schopper! It's time to ride!
    Bon voyage!Victory day memorial in St Martin d'UriageA lit landscape on the way up to MontgardierUp ahead was a veil of clouds and rainThe firefighters put on a training display for my lunch breakThe thrilling green tunnel down past Col LuitelThe thrilling green tunnel down past Col LuitelSechilienne is the turn off into the Belledonne range

    Grinding Montgardier

    8. toukokuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    I know enough about (weather) models to not trust them fully. So I decided I'm going to stand my ground and check for my passage later. But for now, the rain had let up, so it was time to ride again and stand my ground... over there. I decided to ride into the mountains south of here in Isère.

    With a helpful lift up to Revel from Elodie, I started riding on. It is Victory memorial day, so the uniformed French are out marking the honor of their war efforts. This region was famous for the resistance against the fascists.

    The resistance I faced was the long uphill on the Monteé de Chamrousse up to Montgardier. A few days of rest had already made my muscles lazy. I understood them - looking up ahead - why was I riding into the clouds and rain? When I got up there to 1300 m, my sweat started to steam off my back.

    I had learnt: uphill means downhill! The ride down after crossing Col Luitel (lake was covered in mist) was a thrilling slide through a green tunnel going pretty much straight down! I careened down, blinking into the rain, with whoops and squeals for a good 20 minutes, back till I was at 350 m altitude. Now THAT was proper payback!

    And here in Sechilienne is the road going east into the Oisans.    Lue lisää

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    The Romanche cutting softly through the Belledonne
    The Himalayan bridgeA natural bridge for lizardsCamp by the bridge1The night sky was brilliant between the mountains1

    Belle Belledonne

    8. toukokuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The Belledonne mountains on both sides of the road from Sechilienne are so sheer and prominent, that the Romanche river has cut only space enough for one road. So we all - bicycle, motorbike, car, campervan, horse wagon - have to share the same path.

    These rock giants, like Masdif du Taillefer, are so big and so near that rolling along them feels like a hazy dream. Surreal ride.

    I came across a sign that said "passerelle Himalayenne". Not sure what that means but Himalayan? I had to check it out. It turned out to be a suspended rope bridge, but made of steel ropes. This takes out the danger, unlike the ones in the Himalayas.

    It was a beautiful spot, so I decided to set up camp for the night. The river hissed and gurgled. The sun set and the stars pirouetted overhead between the mountain gorges.    Lue lisää

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    Maybe Schopper needs a sweater1Barrage de Grand Maison

    Up to Grand Maison

    9. toukokuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    I'm in Tour de France territory now: at sniffing distance from Alpes Huez with its mythical 21 bends - a mecca for cyclists. Luckily, I'm not a cyclist and don't care about the tour.

    So I decided to go up a more scenic route of the 'Grand Alpes' instead. This was a beautiful sunny day (finally) and the climb.... well kept going on all day. At one point the road was barred because the mountain pass is still closed - but well, you can just cycle past the barricades. Many cyclists are on the road today because it's a holiday and sunny.

    Soon they all left me behind with my loaded panniers, and I just pedalled on and on... riding past glaciers, snow banks, rock falls and water falls on the way up past the barrage Grand Maison. This was a desolate and beautiful mountain country!    Lue lisää

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeMatkaaja
    At la Col de la Croix de Fer1My outdoorsman home

    At the Iron Cross

    9. toukokuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    The Croix de Fer (Iron Cross) mountain pass is where this road leads, up at 2070 m. On the way up I found out that the next mountain pass is closed. There was no way forward. I decided to climb up anyway - with all my bags.

    It was a helluva climb up, going on and on. The mountain scenery was incredible, snow-covered peaks and fantastic rock structures. After 6 hours or more of this I finally made it to my first high Alpine pass. Yeah!

    I was not ready to turn around yet. I had earned this view. I looked around and decided to camp up here on the pass, surrounded by these new icy peaks. What a stunning sunset!    Lue lisää

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeMatkaaja
    Col de la Croix de Fer in the morning
    Back down in the valleyCutting through the forest can be interestingHave to learn to not follow forest paths1UffUp at Col de OrnonBenefits of the col being open

    Down and up to Col de Ornon

    10. toukokuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The morning after was weird. I woke up well before sunrise - because I was too warm! I was over-prepared with my sleeping clothes. Oh well, I watched the sublime sunrise arrive.

    Once it was bright and warm, I got ready to ride. I had a meet up planned, but two valleys over there.

    The way back down was just amazing! The sun shining on my back as I freewheeled down the giant slopes and swung around the hairpin bends - what a delight! This went on for 1.5 hours till I reached the valley below.

    Now, a little ride along the river and a small cut across the forest to get to the next valley. Or so I thought. I got bushtracked! That forest path was nuts: steep, uneven and made of wet slate slabs that slipped when I pushed Schopper.

    Luckily, I was in a good mood and kept going... And soon enough I had climbed Col du Ornon.    Lue lisää

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeMatkaaja
    Ride down Col du OrnonBeautiful rock cap on this hillThe sunset was all kinds of interestingElodie super excited to go trekking!Preparing to trek the weekendThere's the rock we will hike around.

    Trek interception

    10. toukokuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    The plan was to meet up with Elodie, who was going to trek this sunny weekend around an iconic hiking route. After more cycling than I had anticipated, I made it to our meeting point.

    It was great to see her familiar, friendly face again. While eating pizza and watching the sunset, the sky turned magical and we were super pleased to just be there for. Later, we were wondering what that weird red and purple glow in the sky is. We were sitting there watching the Aurora borealis! I found out about the geomagnetic storm only the next day while riding to the trailhead of Mont Aiguille.Lue lisää

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeMatkaaja
    Trailhead towards Mont Aiguille
    A lovely winding path overlooked by Mont Aiguille1Elodie also caught rock madness

    Tour de Mont Aiguille

    11. toukokuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We took the hiking route around the iconic Mont Aiguille. This tall limestone mesa simply towers over the rest of the landscape. The route passed through pine forest and then beech until it goes over the tree line. The whole time this giant rock is getting closer and closer, till I can't see it's edges anymore. A surreal experience.

    Finally when at the top of the route, I caught a bit of rock madness and started clambering straight up towards the rock. I had to go touch it! I fell upwards in the inverted gravity and magnetism of this magnificent rock until I was standing up against it. We got fantastic views from up there that can't be captured in pictures. Just beautiful.    Lue lisää

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    Campsite for the night, me without a tentSetting up for a good picnicCamembert, wine and chats kept us goingThe view of the mount from the 'backside'Some deep breaths before heading back to town

    Camp and descent

    12. toukokuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We planned to do the entire 18 km circuit around the mount. So we clambered down. Elodie's sharp ears made us peek over the edge - there was a family of bouquetin (ibex) heading up the slope for the night. Great wildlife moment!

    We descended and found a campsite near a river. We set up for the night. I had not brought a tent, so was going to be sleeping in the open - a great view through the leaves to a star-filled sky. Will there be aurora borealis today? I fell asleep before finding out.

    Next morning we walked on to complete the long loop around the other side of the mountain. It was a tiring affair, but we were glad and proud to have completed it. I silently spoke words of love to this cool rock. We sat in the jumpy to sip tea and stare at the mountains before heading back to town.    Lue lisää

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    1Chateau de MiolansIsabelle & Jacques pull out their relief map to talk specificsUphill at least keeps me warmEnough, let's just watch the rainGlacial plateau of the Bauges1The sun finally peeps out to end the day

    Massif du Bauges

    15. toukokuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    The little sunshine break was over. It was raining again, and looked like it would continue. But the worst of the storm had passed south into Italy. So I prepared my bags and Schopper for the road.

    After a lovely evening of feeling giddy about our adventures, I bid farewell to Elodie again and rode off into the rain. It was warm and soft, with a lovely earthy smell heavy in the farmlands. I spent a long time processing the phantasmagoria of mountains and skies and beauty that this last week had been.

    I cycled towards the Massif du Bauges. There I met Isabelle & Jacques at Bourgneuf, who are veteran mountain lovers. They offered to take me paragliding, but the weather was still no good. After a nice evening of mixed veg curry, I rode on into the rain, climbing up to Col de Frènes and down into the Bauges plateau.    Lue lisää

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    Schopper at Lake Geneva
    MorgesAloo dhum, sheep yogurt raitha and red riceFeast with Helene

    Lausanne

    18. toukokuuta 2024, Sveitsi ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After a hearty breakfast of dosas and chutney from the able hands of Sparsh, I rode out along the northern side of Lake Geneva. I even got to pack away some tactical spices.

    The ride to Lausanne was pretty plain, generally riding through farmlands and not far from the highway. Pretty densely populated.

    At Lausanne, I met Helene and together we decided to whip up a great meal. Pulling together spices and fresh produce, we made aloo dhum, sheep yogurt raitha with red rice. Just a lovely evening together, went on past midnight!    Lue lisää

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    Climb up to the Terraces of LavauxThe wine farms go on all along the lakeCrash at the stream crossing at RatvelCamp for the night1

    Ratvel crash camp

    19. toukokuuta 2024, Sveitsi ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Helene put me on to a variation of the lake route that took me over the Terraces des Lavaux . Today was the opening day for the wine caves, so there were parades of pretty tourists walking around with goblets in hand, laughing and looking in awe at the stunning scenery of the sunlit lake. I felt a little less enthusiastic, having measured the steepness of the climb up here.

    At Chardonnes, I stopped off to meet Maude. She treated me to cool syrup in her garden overlooking the lake near Montreux, and regaled me with some stories of her bike trips. I decided not to stay and pedaled on towards Bulles.

    Just at the descent near Ratvel, I had an accident. A stream running across the road had made the bed very slippery. I fell with Schopper in a thud and a splash. I was drenched and shaken, but could not detect any real damage. Crazy how a little bit of water, flowing fast, can change your ride.

    That was enough for the day, so I decided to spend the night here. Maybe a few things would dry overnight - except it rained during the night. At least the sunrise was memorable!    Lue lisää

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    Medieval town of Gruyères
    Picking up Gruyère in Gruyères. Fondue incoming!Dario showed me how to repair spokesGiger museumGiger's muse LiMaking RotisFull thaali meal!

    Gigeresque Gruyères

    20.–22. toukok. 2024, Sveitsi ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Next morning, I managed the downhill ride easily and rode past Bulle to reach the medieval old town of Gruyères. Maybe more famous for its cheese than it's castle.

    Here I met Dario and Laure, with whom I had an excellent couple of days. Dario's mad tales of his two-year ride till Nepal, through south India was fascinating. We exchanged stories of Zanskar and made each other nostalgic.

    As he's a bike mechanic, Dario offered to fix the broken spoke on the back wheel. The bike shop owner Alain threw in freebies and told me to "ride on my behalf". All this generosity, so touching.

    Laure is an artist and also runs the Giger art museum, so I got a cool private tour. A surreal experience through the world of the mad genius Giger who made crazy fantasy art. He got famous for winning an Oscar for the artwork for the Alien movies. The details in his paintings, made with an airbrush without sketching, show his utter mastery of his craft.

    We had a food festival! We rode out several times to pick up fresh local ingredients and cook up great meals. I doubt it gets better than this Gruyère cheese fondue! We also had Indian thaalis of bhindi masala, aloo gobi, daal fry complete with rotis and mango pickle. Dario relived many memories from India through this, as we licked our fingers clean.

    I'm very glad to have met this man of the mountains and this artist lady in their beautiful and Gigeresque home in Gruyères.    Lue lisää

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    1Nicole heading out for her flightHoly cowbells!View from their houseAdrian was another satisfied customer

    Jauenpass

    22. toukokuuta 2024, Sveitsi ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    With the weather forecasts swinging this way and that - and often missing, I decided to ride on East. On Dario's reco, I planned to ride over the Jauenpass up at 1500 m.

    The ride up was with a sombre light, with sudden splashes of sunlight giving emerald green views. These are the pre-Alps, so they're generously forested and make for pleasant riding. As pleasant as cranking up 1000m can be.

    I rode down the other side of the pass in a blaze, at one point hitting 65 kmph! From there on the trail joined the lake route, heading towards Thunersee.

    Near Spiez I climbed up to Aeschi and was greeted warmly by Nicole (swiss flight attendant), Adrian and their sons. We ate a lovely meal, with me trying to explain my story in German now instead of French. Somewhere close to the Jauenpass, the language had silently switched to German.    Lue lisää

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    Paraglider in Interlaken
    Mättenberg wearing a scarf of cloudsWetterhorn giant reveals itself next to me3

    Wetterhorn & Mittelhorn

    24. toukokuuta 2024, Sveitsi ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    The sun was wavering in it's intentions, but I was set on mine. As soon I set out from Aeschi, I felt the first drops of rain on my neck.

    I rode down narrow and winding paths, like in a green roller coaster, to Interlaken. And suddenly, it was a world of tour buses! Japanese and Indian tourists walking backwards, distracted by the photos they want to capture.

    I rode straight out as I had another mountain ascent on my mind. Staying with the swiss locals has meant that I get, and follow, these tips to take the regional routes through the mountains. The path up to Grindelwald was a respectable climb, but I pedaled on in good time. Maybe the constant drizzle of rain helps to focus the mind. Or I'm getting better at this.

    Grindelwald was another shocking tourist bubble. I had no idea so many Indians came to Switzerland. There were even Indian restaurants up here. After a coffee to watch the rain and the famous Eiger, I rode on further upwards. The crowds thinned out within minutes out of town, and I was again alone in the high mountains.

    The clouds were thick and wooly, settled heavily like a scarf around the neck of these pointy black mountains. The rain was not falling as much as just hanging wet and prickly in the cold air.

    Just before the 2000 m high pass of Grosse Scheidegg, the clouds moved quickly and revealed the giants Wetterhorn and Mittelhorn right next to me! How were these huge rocks hidden this whole time? I stopped to stay and stare at them. There was a little hut, so I rolled out my sleeping mat for the night. The thick white clouds rolled in and smothered the plateau as it got darker. A beautiful mountain moment when the sun flashed on the pointy peaks before setting for the night.    Lue lisää

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    View to Sarnersee from BrünigpassAt lake LucerneMonique & Alina pleased with Indian foodOut for a picnic with friendsKappelbrücke in Lucerne

    Brünigpass to Lucerne

    25. toukokuuta 2024, Sveitsi ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    I woke up this morning to a wall of white. The clouds had settled in during the night and I could not see the road ahead of me.

    When it got warmer, I climbed up to Grosse Scheidegg (2000 m), when the giant rock peaks came back into view. I heard cracks in the distance, what are they? Avalanches! I saw some 8 of them crack and fall off the rock like white slow -motion waterfalls. Then came the superb 1000+ m descent. Yeah!

    I climbed up to Brünigpass at 1000 m, before descending again to the lakes. They are so picturesque, esp even the sun shines. The rain stayed a loyal friend all day, through Sarnen to Lucerne. There I met Monique and René, veterans of a 3-year bike voyage, and lovely hosts. As usual, when I take a rest day, the sun decides to shine.    Lue lisää

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    Another pique-nique magnifique21Another Thali with Hannah, Linus, Beat and Sabine

    Lake route through Ägeri saddle

    27. toukokuuta 2024, Sveitsi ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The forecast again said rain later in the day from the south west. I thought I'll outpace the rain, and got an early start out of Lucerne. It was pleasant and sunny.

    For once, I actually followed the Lake Route today. It was probably a classic section of it, running along Zügersee and then climbing up to the Ägeri hill range. It was when I was in the forest that it started to rain - and it was actually wonderful! Green, fresh, clean forest paths are just good for the mood. The ride on the top of the hill saddle was fun with a great downhill section.

    It was forecast to rain heavy during the night. After 93 km, I found shelter with Sabine & Beat in Uznach. Another set of India lovers, with a well-stocked spice cupboard, who gave me free reign over their kitchen. Great to talk biking stories over yummy curry.

    Today I have completed 3000 km on Schopper!    Lue lisää

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    Liechtenstein the biking country. All 25kms of it.Franziska is set to explore this country tooCamp spot in a forest overlooking Balzers1

    Coffee in Liechtenstein?

    28. toukokuuta 2024, Liechtenstein ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    It was finally a sunny day again and I was riding well. It's only a few more kilometers to 'finish' the lake route, so why not go all the way to Liechtenstein? It's otherwise quite unlikely to end up in this tiny country. So I figured it makes sense to go have a coffee in Liechtenstein.

    On the road in I met Franziska, also out on her bicycle. She thought it a good idea to check out the grand lands of Liechtenstein too. The camping spot I had scouted out also had a fire pit. So the hammock went up and we sat around a great fire she made, as the sunset sprayed out a colorful display behind the Gutenberg castle that stood out over the landscape. Though everything was dwarfed by the huge Mountain (Pizol?) behind.    Lue lisää

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    This was our camp
    Weather started sunny at first1We lived in there1Ready for Fondue

    Rain and Fire Camp

    29. toukok.–2. kesäk. 2024, Liechtenstein ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The camp spot was great: with a forest behind us providing shade with it's broad leaves, a hill filled with wild flowers, a stream with clear cold water, trails to walk and a hammock to lie in. With the sun shining, it didn't feel like we needed more.

    Then the weather turned. It started to rain lightly, with more to come. We decided to embrace the weather and the opportunity to experience the elements. So we stayed on in the forest.

    Franziska is a fire fairy. She kept the fire going despite the rain. And so we could sit warm even as the few raindrops trickled through the leaves - and enjoy a cheese fondue in the forest! We ate delicious feasts.

    Then it really started to rain, and the water eventually got everywhere. By now, the water was just a natural element of the place and we were fine with it. It was an intense & sensual experience to be enveloped by the sounds and feeling of rain all around. We had become one with the Dauerregen.

    And so it was that I came for a coffee, but ended up living on this hill forest in Liechtenstein, bathed in birdsong and beauty, covered in clouds and rain, warmed by fire and food and shared stories. A wonderful stay in serenity at the fireside with Franziska!    Lue lisää

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    Riding out of camp
    In Vaduz1Franziska on her gypsy loadout to go northAlong the Rhine

    Coffee in Liechtenstein-ish

    1. kesäkuuta 2024, Itävalta ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Eventually, the rain subsided... and we went out to explore Vaduz. There was a bhuskers festival going on, with a music band playing. There were more people on the stage than in the audience - looked like they were just having fun.

    Liechtenstein has its own language, I realized. And it's pretty funny too.

    Franziska was heading north. So I rode with her across the country, till we had ended up in Feldkirch. Turns out that Liechtenstein was too small for me to find a coffee, so I was having one in Austria instead. Close enough.    Lue lisää

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    Back along the Rhine
    Ah my friend the rainCamp site near Landquart

    Polenweg into Graubünden

    3. kesäkuuta 2024, Sveitsi ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Having ridden the length of Liechtenstein now, I turned around to head back south into the mountains in Switzerland. The Graubünden range south of Chur was suggested several times.

    I rode out along the big cycle route along the Rhine. The seemingly dry day was rainy again. But I was now a dauerregen man, so I kept going. In Landquart, I decided I had enough and found a spot with a fireplace. My attempts at fire were soon quashed as it started raining hard. Without a fire fairy to help, I went in to my tent.

    Next morning, everything and more was splattered with mud due to the heavy rain. After wiping down till the washcloths were as muddy as the tent, I set out on the road again.

    As I rode past Chur, I remembered this to be the birthplace of the genius artist Giger I had learnt of in Gruyères. The landscapes north of Chur were quite industrial, a surprising contrast to what this country had shown so far.

    There I switched to the Graubünden route, called the Polenweg, to Thusis. The route was flanked by great tall mountains - at least the parts I could see through the veil of thick clouds. Later the route climbed up into the forest, which was a very fine ride through verdant green. Sporadically, the way was abutted against spectacular rock faces. I cycled wondering if I'll get to see these mountains better soon.    Lue lisää

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    41Alpine roadblock1Teaching Kaspar the ways of the Biriyani

    Masein with the Bernets

    3.–6. kesäk. 2024, Sveitsi ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    When I arrived drenched and mud-splattered in Masein, the Bernet family took me in with warmth and openness. This beautiful family home was just what I needed.

    Kaspar is a passionate cook, and had prepared the daily feast - with a fantastic dal fry. Over the next few days, we prepared great meals using veggies & herbs from the garden. This was a coriander plantation! We made cholle, aloo dumm, rotis, raitha and more.

    As per protocol, as soon as I decided for rest days it had turned sunny. I unpacked and washed and dried every piece of my gear. Then when I left for the mountains, my bag hooks broke. So I came back for yet another feast of biriyani, chutney and dill raitha.

    What a joyful bubble with Kaspar, Sarna, their children Laurin & Jorunn and the exchange student Ikumi from Japan. This was a soulful rest stop, felt like home.    Lue lisää

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    1The Albula river

    Bergün Filisur

    6. kesäkuuta 2024, Sveitsi ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    It was unusual to be heading out on the bike on a sunny day, but that's what I did. My second attempt at leaving Masein was successful. Soon I was climbing up the route to Bergün & Filisur. I was starting to see why the Grissons were recommended by so many.

    The railway history of Bergün & Preda was displayed on world heritage signboards along a stretch. Pretty fascinating how electricity, bridges and railways were interlinked as early as the 1890s.

    Just a good riding day along the Albula river!    Lue lisää

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