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Rolling on Europe
  • Arjun
  • Arjun

Rolling on Europe

Rolling about the continent looking for an exit. Read more
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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Schopper and I arrive at the BFM to wet our whistle
    The BFM is a brewery with character and very friendly staffJerôme has done bicycle tours himself and decided I should have a comfy eveningHe left me with a working tool and an impossible, but welcome, challenge for the nightEnjoying a brew while my meal cooks. What a great evening!

    Lord of the Brews

    April 7, 2024 in Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I considered that I had earned a good beer after this day. So I headed to the Brasserie de Franches Montagnes in Sagnelégier, though it was less than an hour before it closed, to taste some local artisanal beer.

    This was a bar with great brews and lots of character. Quite like Jerôme, the proprietor, who decided to show me a good time. He decided that I should sleep in the brewery, and left me with a goblet and a fridge stocked with their best. All 5 of the brews I tasted were delicious and refreshing! I think these were the best beers I've drunk on my trip, including those in Germany!

    What a great encounter to be left as Lord of the Brews for a night. Prost!    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    The hill slope full of solar panels stared expectantly at the clouds
    The brochure promises much sunshineThe sundial also showed no hopeful signsA storm brewing for tomorrow, 20⁰C colder and sleet expected

    Mont Soleil is a lie

    April 8, 2024 in Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I hung out with the brewery staff this morning, getting to know this fun crew. After sharing several coffees and travel stories, I bid farewell to Jérôme and the crew.

    The Jura Route took me through winding paths, embedded in lush green slopes with the limestone cliffs never too far away, though often covered by forest cover. A long uphill section led the way to Mont Soleil. Somehow I cranked away with greater consistency than yesterday - maybe 6 beers do help!

    Mont Soleil turned out to be a flagrant lie. There was no sunlight on the hilltop, but just overcast with darkening clouds. Another storm brewing meant that I had to ride on wondering how to deal with the storm.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    The viewpoint at Vue des Alpes was rather short on Alpine views
    Possibly my highest point so farSome good downhills were had before climbing up to the colGoing off track means, well, the road ends. Had to carry Schopper over a train line.

    Which vue of the Alps?

    April 8, 2024 in Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    I was not going to let another storm rob me of the downhill freewheeling. So I hatched a plan to get off the Jura trail today, but that involved a further uphill climb. The higher they are, the longer the wheeeeeeeee.

    I reached the Col de la Vue des Alpes at 1280 m. Even after letting my vision clear, there were no alps to be seen. Oh well, highest point reached before heading downhill.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Sometimes downhill just means down a hill
    The hiking trail was steep, but also on the sides. Little room for error.Cutting across random green fields for a whileA view of the lake NeuchâtelArrived at Neuchâtel train station

    Downhill to Neuchâtel

    April 8, 2024 in Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    The 1000 m downhill descent to Neuchatêl lake was going to be my hard-earned payback from the Jura mountains.

    Though sometimes downhill is just down a hill. This was a bone-juddering ride down a very very steep forest hiking trail. The big loose rocks were hiding amidst the tall grass ready to slip as soon as my wheel touched them. Had to grip tight and stand in a pouncing position most of the way. Turns out Schopper can handle mountain biking better than my gloveless hands.

    Not the freewheeling descent I had imagined, but definitely a good adventure ride!    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Sparsh and I riding back home together
    Ayu and Kiran working on the decorationsSparsh coming down for the surpriseBlowing out the birthday candles that Patrice had nicely organizedView of the Haut Jura behind the house

    Happy birthday Sparsh!

    April 8, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    I rode the train to Geneva, where I was met by Sparsh. She cycles between France and Geneva each day for work, so she's a kindred spirit. Schopper carefully observes her bicycle, and approves of the same good tires.

    We ride back straight towards the Haut Jura mountains "until we can't anymore". This is where I shelter from the storm.

    The next day is Sparsh's birthday. So her boys Ayu and Kiran, with all the fuss that it entails, blew up balloons and 'helped' Patrice put together a surprise for mom. A joyful little family moment.

    Sparsh reminds me I can't call her a kiddo anymore. 🙂    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Artwork to show the higher dimensions that this physics explores
    The story of modern physics inscribedLarge Hadron Collider reconstructionLook like tribal masks, of a robotic tribeThe detector technology is truly mind-blowingThe first web server ran from here!

    CERN is the second

    April 10, 2024 in Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Here I found myself at my second particle accelerator on this trip, at CERN the largest in the world. There's a shiny new science exhibit, which showcases the ambitious science and engineering that happens here.

    The art exhibits were quite trippy. I got sucked into the high dimensions of the glowing mobius.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    The icy Alpine peaks seemed to glow in the afternoon light
    A sunny climb up from Thoiry, with yellow fields and Geneva in viewFirst peak of Le Reculet is above this giant rock capAdmiring the view during a snack breakSpring blooms covered the mountain meadowsThe city and valley disappearing into the folds of landMe realizing on up top of le Reculet that the big peak there is Mont BlancWalking on along the ridge towards the highest peakCrete de la Neige lives up to its nameViews from highest Jurassic to Alpine peaksThe sprawl of Geneva in the valleyA grueling 1400 m descent back to go home

    Jurassic Peak

    April 11, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today was a rest day for Schopper and the sandals. So I snuck out to clamber around the mountains behind the house.

    The steep path through the pine forests, and beyond the tree line brought me up to Le Reculet (the reclined). From there I walked the ridge to Crête de la neige (Snow ridge), which lives up to its name and I had to trudge through some snow banks. And thus I reached the highest point (1720 m) of the Jura mountains!

    The clear weather kept the Alps in view, and the higher I got the closer they seemed to be - all day the Mont Blanc seemed to be glowing at me.

    This turned out to be a grueling 8-hour trek. Totally worth it for the distant views, the crisp and still air of the mountains and a chunky challenge completed.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Enjoyable views from the train on to Lac du Bourget
    In Montélimar, with no time to admire it.Riding on out along the Rubion river

    Getting to Ardèche

    April 12, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    A day of train hopping to try and reach Kiran.

    First a ride with Schopper to Geneva train station. Then I got off at the 'other' station at Valence. So I hopped on and rode to the correct station and caught the next train to Montélimar.

    It's a few hours later than I wanted to, but I've now officially arrived in Ardèche. The cliffs and castles rise up vertically out of the ground - quite dramatic.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    The road is sun-soaked, but long. Will I reach Kiran today?
    1Donning my new ultra-suave sun gearThe landscapes are bathed in light. And warmth.Ânes de ArdècheMy shorter path ended short, in a forest path uphill. Where to go now?Back tracked and after the highway, there was again the soft green landscapes

    Sunny road to son

    April 12, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I'm still keen to get to Kiran today, so I make a bit of a mad dash through the maddening sun. How did it suddenly get so warm?

    The path I was on suddenly veers off into the vineyard and then up a forested hill. That's a no go.

    So I backtrack, ride a few kms on the highway and stay on the sunny road to my son.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Kiran geared up and excited to join the ride
    1Squeezing in the last goodbyesKiran riding elegantly over a little riverA forest gravel track kept us well occupiedOn the Roman bridge at Vivier

    Kiran joins the ride

    April 13, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    In a burst of inspiration, and warm sunshine, we decide to get riding together. I unload my camping gear from Schopper, and head to the shop to equip Kiran with his cycling gear. Oh, and some shoes for me.

    And soon there we are, ready to ride out together! I find his excitement adorable. We ride from Alba la Romaine through a path mixed with vineyards, farmland, forests and hills till we get to Vervier. I'm impressed with how he handled the forest track too.

    Kiran: "This is so cool papa, I could keep going like this". I have to slow down because of how my heart swells up on hearing that.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    He was less pleased when he found out they're not dandelions
    Bridges were the only places to meet the traffic road againEmergency shadow break1"Come in! The water is fantastic". This was the best 60 seconds of the day1Happy to be riding together

    Hot-footing Provence

    April 14, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    It was quite warm today, so we stayed in our sun gear all the time. The sky was spotless blue, sometimes a light wind and plenty of flat greens all around. Despite the sun this was pretty ideal riding conditions - so ride we did!

    We rode from Bourg St. Andéol to Mondragon to Caderousse. We were 100% of the time on the Via Rhona, the main bike path through Provence. It is missing picnic tables and benches though. The ride was through green tunnels of forests, open fields, and the occasional lavender patches.

    Road lessons from Kiran:

    K: the road is so flat and easy. This is boring, papa.

    Me: boring? You want hills?

    K: You know what uphill means?

    Me: umm difficult riding?

    K: Uphill means.... Dooooownhillllllll (as he whizzed down one).    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    A view of the remaining bridge of Avignon
    Riding more of the 'boring' green flatsA bridge into AvignonScribbling into the travel journal quickly1No Provence specialty, but we earned this!

    Le Pont d'Avignon

    Apr 14–15, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The riding must have been good, because even after the picnic and swimming breaks, we had covered 70 km and reached Avignon. The city with the famous bridge in the famous children's rhyme.

    I'm impressed with Kiran's ride today. But decide we will take it slower tomorrow.

    Lessons from the road with Kiran:

    "Hey papa, this is such a cool trip. When is our next bicycle trip?"

    "Where do you want to go?"

    "Oh I think I'll cross America"    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Palais des Papes is rather large
    The virgin Mary overlooking the fate of her sonVery innovative and delicious ice creamClimbing up to Jardin des DomsSurely the popes used to play ball in these gardens

    Palais des Papes

    April 15, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We hung around in Avignon. First a morning expedition to the Decathlon through city streets and traffic. Now Kiran's cycling gear has an important item: padded shorts.

    Then we went to the Palais des Papes.
    It may be the biggest gothic structure in the world. It may have been the residence of the popes.

    What I can confirm is that it is a great place to play catch with the ball on top of the dome. No need to sully our experience of it with historical tours and facts.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    View from the bridge on arrival at Beaucaire
    Kiran and Rocker looking snazzier each day

    Riding the change to Beaucaire

    April 15, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    With the fading afternoon sun, we rode on south along the Rhone. We noticed that the landscape was now a bit rough, with scrub plants. The rocks were a different hue, more like sand. The flats were hillier. And the wind was rising.

    So we decided to stop off at Beaucaire.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Surfing through the red florals
    "Resting" in a playground at ArlesSo we had no time to go into the huge Roman amphitheaterWe were zipping along through CamargueThe elevated path gave us a nice viewI was accused of snoring within the 10 minutes breakCarefree games

    Surfing down the Camargue

    April 16, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Even as we got started, it was clear that today going to be a glorious day. Strong tailwinds all day to carry us through Arles and the Camargue region down to reach the Mediterranean.

     I'm pretty sure I saw a million or more scarlet red poppy flowers lining our route all along the way.Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    There's the Mediterranean - 10 kms beyond that highway
    Not the landscapes I had expected at the Med

    Mediterra-non!

    April 16, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    The Via Rhona (EV17) reaches the sea in Port-Saint-Louis-du-Rhône. I had decided to instead go to the coastal town of Port-du-Bouc instead for it's train station. Just a small deviation of a few kms.

    This led us down a section that was totally industrial, and desolate. And ended in a ramp on to a national highway. I didn't want to ride with Kiran down the highway. Or another track that just led nowhere.

    We were stranded 10 km from the Mediterranean. But the road said Non!

    After much circling around and screaming at the map and clutching my hair, we had to accept that there was no (safe) way forward. So we looked to the setting sun, and decided to retrace our way back to the original route. We were tired, but Kiran stayed strong and said we'll be ok to ride more.

    The highway here completely bisects the land west of and east of the Marseille port. This is what land fragmentation is and cuts ecosystems and landscapes asunder.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    This picturesque trail was a hard rocky rattle
    Celebrating our safe harbor

    Sea slog

    April 16, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Now we were fighting the winds, the fading light and our fading strength. The way to the cycle route had a section of straight road along the canal, which turned out to be a hard gravel path. For 8 kms, we rattled over it till we got to the cycle path. We had to complete the better part of the last hour in the dark using Schopper's lights.

    Finally, at nearly 10 pm we pulled in to a hotel in Port-Saint-Louis-du-Rhône. The end of the Rhone in the Mediterranean. What a slog it was to get to the sea.

    Today, we floated and gloated over the tailwinds, and then hit an impasse at the highway, and fought the same winds on the way back. We're rather beat up from the day, having covered 93 km today. Kiran is, quite amazingly, still in good spirits.

    We reached the Mediterranean. But not in the way we had expected. Oh well.

    Then we found out that the way out of here with bicycles is only with another challenge, and quite early tomorrow morning. Sleep will not be our succor tonight.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Schopper and Rocker take the bus
    Waiting on the train at ArlesSchopper and Rocker take the trainThe views did get better and mollify us a bit

    Reroute to Riviera

    April 17, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Turns out, there are only two ways out of the harbor town. Ride out over the highway, or take a bus which loads bicycles. Which leaves at 06:45 in the morning.

    So, after less sleep than we had earned, we were packed up and got on to the bus. Two sailing men spent the whole time exchanging important info about their vessels, dogs, and wives - in that order. Kiran was still excited about the wild boar we saw last night.

    At Arles, we caught a train. I was not yet ready to forgive Marseille, so we kept heading east towards the French Riviera.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Kiran and I rejoice our spiritual arrival at the Mediterranean
    "Oh it's so clear. But the water is too cold, papa"We went in for a dip anyway!The ball saw action for hours and hoursKiran on seagull duty while I prepare sandwichesEmbracing the cycling life and looking like a lost video game character in the shopping centerIndian Thali to celebrate!2Laughing at sunset

    Toulon

    Apr 17–18, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    We arrived in Toulon, unloaded our bicycles from the train and rode out to the beach. Now, that looked more like the arrival we wanted!

    I had now bicycled, with a bit of help, from the North Sea to the Mediterranean.

    The way to celebrate this? Get some Indian food, and then play catch on the beach with Kiran. We played on this beach for two days somehow.

    I told Kiran that I had prepared a secret plan for his love of "bumpy roads" and beaches. He was excited and wanted to know all about it. But there was enough ball catching to keep him distracted.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    The ship wore the same colors as I
    1Finding out that we're going deep into the MediterraneanTough decisions in the panorama deck while waiting to departHe kept saying how he was loving being on a big ship

    Into the Med

    April 18, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    To settle the score with the Mediterranean, we were not going to stop at it. We were going into it.

    Kiran and I rode our bikes to the port, and I showed him the big ship we were going to board. He was so excited! And he still didn't know where we were going!Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    We rode on a track overtaken by the bush, pretty gnarly stuff
    I think that's a Nuraghe, but we didn't go near to checkThe vegetation has a lot more desert character

    Bush tracking

    April 19, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    The roads out of Porto Torres got empty pretty soon. The change in the vegetation is stark, suddenly all desert plants and cactuses around. And they're big!

    After a bit, we decided to do a bit of bush tracking - I guess the bike equivalent of bush whacking. The track got so close in at times, that we had to get off and just push through the branches. It pleased him so much that he got off the bike at the end to give me a hug. Weird the kind of things that pleases our kids.

    The point of it was to check out a nuraghe marked on the map. It turned out to be too far from the track, so we moved on for now.    Read more

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