• Arlene L
  • Arlene L

Camino Mixto

This year I explore the Camino Frances and the Camino Invierno, with a detour as an Hospitalera in Rabanal del Camino. Topped off with a Mediterranean Cruise! Læs mere
  • Diomondi to Vilaseco Pt 2

    12. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    When I arrived at the hotel I was cold and wet, and just wanted a shower. But I knew I was way early for check in. This is a a bit different, a nice boutique hotel plus a space for pilgrims in a shared room.

    Well, since I am the only pilgrim here (of course), they upgraded me to a hotel room. I had to double check with the owner, but he just told me this was a special circumstance. Apparently the pilgrims space is very cold.

    So I got my shower, started laundry, and the owner fed me a lovely pilgrim meal, with great local wine. I feel totally spoiled as I don’t think anyone else is here, though they might check in later (non pilgrims that is).

    And I forgot to say earlier, but I crossed the 100 km to go line! Yippee! 🙌

    *One pilgrim did check in, an Italian, Claudio, who has been walking since March! He started on the Via de La Plata, a little on the Camino Frances, now the Invierno.
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  • Vilaseco to Rodeiro

    13. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Today marked the highest elevation for the Camino Invierno - 1180 m. There was an option to NOT climb. Which I would have taken if it was raining. But when I woke up it was cloudy but dry, so I decided to go for it. I thought I might have regrets if I did not walk to the summit.

    And the climb was actually not as bad as some others on this route. At least it was not muddy or steep. Actually at the top it was a little steep as I followed the Via Cruces, Way of the Crosses, to the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Faro.

    It was pretty up there, but there were no views available. On a clear day you can see four provinces of Galicia.

    The way down was easy except for a couple of muddy patches. That and it started to rain when I was a bit more than an hour from my destination.

    The good news is that no more rain is forecast. Hopefully that is true.

    And today I am staying at an albergue where there are other pilgrims!
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  • Rodeiro to Lalín

    14. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    I really enjoyed today’s walk. It was mostly on back roads, almost all dirt and gravel, with only a few muddy patches. That is hard to avoid on this route.

    The surroundings were very quiet, muy tranquilo. Lots of agricultural land. I had never seen a barbed wire fence in Spain 🇪🇸 - I wonder what Dad would think.

    Today I also saw some eucalyptus trees, shortly after wondering when they would appear. There are a lot in Galicia (transported in), they do well in the wet weather here.
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  • Rodeiro to Lalín Pt 2

    14. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I changed up my after walking routine today. Once I checked in I went out for food and a short walk, then returned to the albergue for shower and laundry. Usually I do it other way around, but I was quite hungry today.

    But first was to stop at the pilgrim store downstairs to get a special sello (stamp). The owner there makes special wax stamps - lovely!

    Then I went to a pizza place, stopped to see the pig statue and the 0 km marker. I am not sure why Lalín has a pig statue, but the 0 km marker indicates this is a central hub to several locations in Galicia, about an hour away from Santiago. Or in my case, three days.

    I also went to a bank machine and a grocery store. I don’t need much more to eat today, but picked up a bit for breakfast and snacks.

    And tonight I met two English speaking bicigrinos. One from Poland 🇵🇱 and one from Germany 🇩🇪. It is strange to hear about biking the Camino, the distance they do each day is like five of my days.
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  • Lalín to Bandeira

    15. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Today was another relatively easy day. There is one more steep hill tomorrow but I am finished with the big elevation changes.

    Leaving Lalín was lovely, on a trail called the Paseo Fluvial. There were even a few locals walking or jogging.

    The trail was again on country roads, through farms and forests, a bit on the highway and a bit in mud (of course).

    I walked over a 10th century Roman bridge and then up a Roman Roadway. A bit later there was a downhill section where I had to pick my way down on stones in a stream.
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  • Lalín to Bandeira Pt 2

    15. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I found some other English speakers today, a couple from Australia. They were on the Via de La Plata, then the Camino Sanabres, which merged with the Camino Invierno at A Laxe, on today’s trail. It was nice to have an easy conversation.

    I paid a little extra for a private room again. €37 seems like a good deal for privacy. Especially when the alternative was a Municipal Albergue. I haven’t had the best luck with those, though A Pobra was good. I have included a photo of the Bandeira Municipal, it really does not look appealing.
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  • Bandeira to Deseiro

    16. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    The walking was great today, but there was really nowhere to stop. I couldn’t find any open cafes or bars. I didn’t look too hard, but nada. So I kept walking.

    More of the walk today was on pavement, which isn’t as nice, but still pretty good as it was mostly in the countryside.

    There was one bridge crossing over the Rio Ulla, which meant a downhill walk before the bridge and an uphill walk after. But it wasn’t steep.

    And now I am just ten km away from the cathedral! So tomorrow I should have a fairly easy walk. Here’s hoping.
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  • Bandeira to Deseiro Pt 2

    16. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Today I am staying at a private albergue called Reina Lupa. Named after an interesting woman. Here is her legend.

    When the body of St James was brought back to Spain by his disciples, Queen Lupa tried to deceive them. They were looking for a place to bury the apostle. She sent them up a hill, now known as Pico Sacro. But she didn’t tell them that there was a cave on the mountain which was an entrance to hell guarded by a dragon. She thought they would be killed, so that Christianity would not move forward in Galicia.

    Instead they were protected from harm and tamed two wild oxen who would then carry the body of St James. When Reina Lupa saw this miracle she converted to Christianity and helped the disciples entomb the body. It wasn’t until centuries later that the body was discovered and the cathedral of Santiago was built.

    I did consider climbing the Pico Sacro, but I really didn’t want to add extra distance today. I did add a little when I missed a turn, but because of that I saw the cool mural in the photos. Pico Sacro is the peak you can see in the sunset photo from yesterday. And a photo or two here.

    This is a nice private albergue, and I am happy to still have a lower bunk! And I have seen a couple of pilgrims that I met earlier in the Camino.
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  • Deseiro to Santiago de Compostela

    17. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    After a restful night in a sweet albergue, I had only ten km to walk.

    And it was a lovely ten kilometres. Except for the last two, the walk was through suburban villages and farmland. I even had a close encounter with a friendly horse.

    When I arrived at the cathedral I was pleased to see almost everyone I had met on the Camino Invierno (about six of them, lol). I then spent quite a bit of the day with Lise from Toronto. She is going on toward Muxia tomorrow.

    I went to the Pilgrim Office to get my Compostela certificate, to Casa Ivar to pick up a map I had ordered (how am I going to pack that big tube?), to Pilgrim House (where I could leave my backpack), and then to lunch.

    After lunch I checked out a few gift shops but didn’t buy anything yet. I wandered back to Pilgrim House to collect my backpack and spent a bit of time there. It is an oasis of calm in a very busy Santiago (today there is a festival of Galego language and culture as well as a holiday).

    Then I went to my albergue. I really like this one as I have a private room (I think it’s the same room as I had before) and it includes breakfast. They have also renovated since I stayed there in 2022.
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  • Santiago de Compostela

    17. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After freshening up I went back to the cathedral, paid my respects to St James, then walked around a bit.

    Today being fiesta day, certain areas were extra busy, especially Alameda Park, so I avoided that. I ended up at a restaurant near the Pilgrim Office, where it is always fun to people watch. Lise joined me again for an early dinner.

    Then I came back and emptied my backpack. 🎒 Now I have to decide what to put back into it.
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  • Santiago Rest Day

    17. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    It’s nice to have a full day to explore Santiago de Compostela.

    I also went out for a walk at sunset yesterday. The main reason was to see the ‘shadow pilgrim’ but it was nice just to walk around. There were lots of pilgrims sitting at restaurants, lots of music and singing. And I saw one more Invierno pilgrim, so that was good. I didn’t meet a lot of people on the Way, but now I think I have seen them all in Santiago.

    This morning I walked over to Alameda Park, one of the nicest spots in Santiago. I had to get a photo with the Two Marias. And nice views of the cathedral, etc.

    Then I headed to the cathedral where I had booked a tour of the Portico of Glory, which included entry to the Museo. We were not allowed to take photos in the Portico but it was very impressive, especially considering it was built more than 800 years ago. Check this website if you want more https://catedraldesantiago.es/visitaportico/en/…

    I thought I might catch the noon mass after that, but the lines were SO long. I have never seen lines like this here, and last time I was here it was a holy year. Could be because it is a weekend and yesterday was a holiday here.

    So I sat and had a café con leche, then went shopping.
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  • Santiago Rest Day Pt 2

    18. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Most of these photos are from the Cathedral Museum. Lots of religious art and artifacts as well as books and tapestries.

    When I first learned about the Camino, I only knew about Santiago Peregrino, St James the pilgrim. But he has an alter ego, Santiago Matamoros, St James the Moor Slayer. It is said that when the Christians were fighting the Moslems that St James appeared on a white horse and helped the Christian army to defeat the Moslems.

    Those images aren’t seen often, but I find them quite interesting. There were several in the museum.
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  • Santiago Rest Day Pt 3

    18. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After a rest from being a tourist I went out in search of food. Cerveza, calamari, and pimientos Padrón. Very nice.

    It was still early so I went to Praza Obradoiro for a bit. Some say Disney is the happiest place on earth, but I think this is better. All those pilgrims arriving in Santiago after days or weeks working hard to achieve their goals and sometimes overcoming tremendous obstacles. Once you arrive in Santiago you know that you can do whatever you set your mind and body to do. And that sense of accomplishment feels great!

    And here are a few statistics. So far this year 679 pilgrims completed the Camino Invierno, compared to 54,383 completing the Camino Frances. No wonder I didn’t meet many people!

    The Pilgrims Office posts stats each day of how many have arrived. I did not do a screen capture yesterday so I’m not sure, but about 2000 were registered on that day.

    Not everyone goes to the Pilgrim Office and not everyone gets a Compostela certificate. But I like to be counted. And I like that little piece of paper, even though I rarely look at it.

    Back to my day. About an hour before mass there was no lineup to go in. I guess the noon mass was the popular one today. So I went in. I did a little tour and found a good seat.

    The question on every pilgrim’s mind: “Will they swing the botafumeiro?” This is a large incenser, the translation is ‘boot of smoke.’ In the movie The Way you can see Emilio Estevez help with it. In fact, it takes six men to pull the ropes that set the botafumeiro in motion. In medieval times it may have helped with the stench of the pilgrims (no showers in their shelters).

    Maybe it is a bit touristic to want to attend mass just in case they swing it. Maybe we should all want to attend mass just for the sake of church. I agree with that, but I’m still a bit excited when they swing it. It isn’t every day. Certain days, holy days, and when someone donates a large sum to the cathedral.

    They did not swing the botafumeiro today. But mass was good and I got a final pilgrim blessing.

    Then I found ice cream and made my way back to the Inn.
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  • Santiago de Compostela to Lisbon

    19. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Greg is on his way to Europe, in fact he arrives in Lisbon before I do.

    My journey today began with a walk to the Estación de Autobús, about two kilometres. I got on the bus there, which took me to Porto.

    In Porto I had to figure out how to get from the bus station on one side to the train station on the other side. A bit confusing but I made it.

    Once on the train it was quite relaxing. I had a coffee and pastry.

    There is a sign that tells our speed. The highest I saw was 200 km/h.

    Later: I arrived in Lisbon, found the hotel and Greg. It does seem strange to travel over 600 km in one day, or even to move so fast after walking. It has been over six weeks since I was in a motorized vehicle. 🚗 I guess I might get used to it eventually.

    I am looking forward to exploring Lisbon tomorrow.
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  • Lisbon

    20. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I did manage to sleep well in that big bed, and the breakfast at the hotel was substantial.

    After breakfast we went out for a walk. Today was just random exploration. After our cruise we have more time to ensure we see a few specific spots.Læs mere

  • Lisbon Pt 2

    20. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After a brief rest I convinced Greg to walk up to the Castelo Sao Jorge. It wasn’t actually much of a climb - I think our hotel was more than half way up.

    So we looked around the Castelo, the amazing views of Lisbon, and the 800+ year old church - Santa Cruz do Castelo.

    Then we found some dinner of cod and red wine.
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  • Cruise Embarkation Day

    21. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We had a lazy morning, then ordered an Uber to take us to the cruise terminal. It would have been a lot quicker to walk down the hill, but the wheels on Greg’s suitcase would not have been happy with the cobblestones.

    Then the Uber guy dropped us off at the train station, which was long way from the correct cruise terminal. But we made it in plenty of time for check in.

    This is the first time we have had a balcony cabin. It is much bigger than the inner cabins we have had in the past. Now I probably won’t want to go back.

    We are on MSC Musica. Today we left Lisbon and are heading to the Mediterranean. For now we are in the Atlantic and we can feel a bit of movement. I imagine that will improve once we enter the Mediterranean.

    So far we have had good food and watched a Flamenco dancing show. 💃💃
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  • Cruise Day 2 - At Sea

    22. maj 2025, Alboran Sea ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Today was “at sea” as we travelled through the Strait of Gibraltar to enter the Mediterranean Sea.

    Yesterday we could definitely feel the waves 🌊 (though not enough to bother us) but today there is very little additional movement.

    It was interesting to see land on both sides as we were close to both Morocco 🇲🇦 on one side and Spain 🇪🇸 / Gibraltar 🇬🇮 on the other side.

    Otherwise we had a relaxing 😎 day. We explored the ship a bit, won a trivia contest prize, and attended a gala dinner. Mostly like other dinners but we dressed up and had some photos taken.

    Later we were treated to an excellent show with singing and dancing.
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  • Cruise Day 3 - Alicante

    23. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    I have had a cough for the last couple of days and today woke up with no voice. And Greg’s back is hurting him today, so we are a fine pair.

    The weather was also not the best, very overcast with a bit of rain intermittently.

    Nevertheless we departed the ship and went into Alicante. It seems like a nice town, but we didn’t go too far. We walked along the promenade, had a coffee, stopped at a farmacia, and checked out a pedestrian street that has a lot of large mushrooms. 🍄 We decided not to climb up to Castillo de Santa Bárbara.

    Then we went back to the ship in time to have lunch and relax a bit.

    The show tonight was a performance by a very good singer from Alicante. She sang mostly European songs.

    Buenos noches! ❤️
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  • Cruise Day 4 - Mahon

    24. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    We are now at the island of Menorca. This is the only port where the access to shore is by tender (small boats), which take about 40 minutes each way.

    We have decided to stay on board today and rest instead since we both are not feeling well. We explored the ship a bit more.

    And rest we did. A little foosball, a few hands of cribbage, some pool time, another trivia contest, and a few beverages.

    Tonight the entertainment was an outstanding variety show with singing, dancing and acrobatics. There are some very talented performers here.
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  • Cruise Day 5 - Olbia

    25. maj 2025, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We arrived at Olbia, Sardinia today. There was a shuttle bus which took us to the start of the tourist section.

    We walked along a very touristy street, then veered off to find the church, Chiesa San Simplicio. Saint Simplicio was the first bishop of Sardinia and the patron saint of Olbia. He was martyred and his remains are said to be in a crypt below the church.

    From there we walked to a park. Greg was going to use the toilets there, but in addition to paying €0.50, you also had a scan a resident card.

    So instead we found a restaurant, had a couple of beers and a charcuterie board, and also used the toilet.

    Across from the restaurant was the Church of St Paul. From there we walked back to the ship.

    The weather was great, sunny with a beautiful blue sky and 23C. 😎😎🇮🇹

    Tonight’s show was another variety program - singing, dancing and acrobatics to movie tunes. Also very well done.
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  • Cruise Day 6 - Genoa

    25. maj 2025, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Genoa is a very busy port city, and this is the first time we have had another cruise ship in port with us. It is also MSC, which is no surprise as I can see a large building topped with the MSC logo on the skyline. This may be their head office.

    Today we had a nice walk around Genoa. It is a large city with a lot of wealthy history. Large cathedrals and churches, a whole street of palazzos. We found an elevator that supposedly took us up to a castle but we couldn’t see the castle.

    We took a different elevator down the hill, walked a bit more, then stopped for a snack and a beverage.

    Then we walked back to the ship and relaxed until dinner. Mostly the food has been very good. Last night I had roast chicken that was dry and bland. That is the only meal that I left most of on my plate.

    Tonight the dessert we chose was Sacher Torte, which we remember having in Vienna many years ago. The MSC version was tasty, and much sweeter.
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  • Cruise Day 7 - Marseille

    27. maj 2025, Frankrig ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today is our one stop in France. 🇫🇷 did you know that Marseille is the second largest city in France? I did not know that but now I can see it.

    Especially when we had a panoramic view from the Basilica Notre Dame de la Garde overlooking the city.

    Greg was happy that we rode a “Petite Train” 🚂 to get up the hill. It would have been more of a hike than I wanted as well.

    So we ended up seeing two large churches, great views of the city, and ocean views showing the island where The Count of Monte Cristo takes place.

    And we walked around a bit as well, of course, but not as far as most other days.

    We didn’t win the prize for the trivia contest today, but came close. And tonight there was another excellent variety performance in La Teatro.
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  • Cruise Day 8 - At Sea

    28. maj 2025, Mediterranean Sea ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    This morning we did some laundry by hand (the laundry service prices are outrageous, and I’ve been washing by hand for two months anyway), played some cribbage, and played MSC Master Chef at Sea. We didn’t win any prizes there.

    On the pool deck they had a paella 🥘 feast for lunch, very nice.

    In the afternoon I did a little window shopping and found a Barbie style cruise captain who comes with two extra outfits - one for exercise and one for the party!🎉 Should I buy one?

    Later we won another trivia contest - we think we should try to find one at home that pays out more than hats and t-shirts.

    Tonight was a gala evening. So we dressed up a bit and got some photos taken.

    After sunset from the balcony we went to yet another fine show in the Teatro.
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  • Cruise Day 9 - Málaga

    29. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We did a purchased excursion today, the only one we have bought on this cruise. It was a city tour of Málaga, including the Fortress of Gibralfaro with great views, a drive around the expensive areas of the city and a walking tour of the central city.

    Our tour guide was entertaining and knowledgeable, of course. And quite stubborn in his opinions. For instance he told us all not to go to a certain café because they are a tourist trap and overcharged him once about five years ago. He told all his friends to tell their friends as well. The restaurant hasn’t gone out of business yet, but that is his goal.

    We learned about Picasso (he was born here) and the many change-overs in power from Phoenicians, Arabs, Romans, Visigoths, Christians.

    There is an Iglesia de Santiago in Málaga, which marks the beginning of the Camino Mozárabe. If you walk this Camino, it joins up with the Via de la Plata, and is a very long walk to Santiago de Compostela.

    Back on the ship we had an excellent lunch, didn’t win the trivia game, walked around on the deck, watched as we left the dock, and had some beverages.

    The show tonight was a ventriloquist act. Both the ventriloquist and his dummy were multilingual, as everyone seems to be on this ship. Very entertaining.

    You can also check out how fast our cruise director Javier speaks as he introduces the act. In six languages.
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