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Camino Mixto
  • Arlene L

Camino Mixto

This year I explore the Camino Frances and the Camino Invierno, with a detour as an Hospitalera in Rabanal del Camino. Topped off with a Mediterranean Cruise! Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 8, 2025
    Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Bye Greg!
    1

    On my way!

    April 7 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    The adventure begins!🎒
    I am about to board my first flight. Edmonton to Montreal 🛫👋

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Watching the planes in Montreal
    1

    The next step

    April 8 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    Soon I will board my next flight, this one to Madrid. My cousin Larry was kind enough to come to the airport and help me to pass the time today. Ten hours is a long time to wait.

    And what do you think of my new little friend? I was thinking to name him Iago (like Santiago but not a saint) - unless you give me a better name?Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Entrance to León1

    España 🇪🇸

    April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Two sleepless nights in a rows is taking a toll! But tonight I have a private room!

    I arrived in Madrid 🛫 about 6:45 a.m. (10:45 p.m. Edmonton time) and made my way to the train 🚆 station.

    Everything went smoothly except for some difficulty activating an eSIM on my phone. But I did have time for a café con leche and a cerveza limón!

    The high speed train to León was lovely and included a full lunch. Then it was a short walk to my hotel with that private room. I’ll start using albergues tomorrow.

    Now I’m off to see the Cathedral and a few other places. And maybe find tapas. 🍷🇪🇸⛪️    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Shell Camino markers
    San IsidoroLeón Cathedral22My new hiking poles

    Exploring León

    April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    A shower and a change of clothes felt wonderful after 48 hours of travel! I set out to explore León. I saw my first Camino marker, stopped in at the Basilica San Isidoro, then Catedral León. It is such a beautiful building with so much history.

    Then I had two things on my agenda. Eat something and buy some poles. The lack of sleep made me completely indecisive; so, after wandering aimlessly, I headed back toward my hotel and found amazing homemade potato chips, free with a beer 🍺 🍺 (una más, por favor), and a great price for 2 cheerful yellow hiking poles (both places less than a block from my hotel.)

    Now satiated and exhausted, I am heading to bed.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    San Marco ParadorBlue structure looked like a promising overpass, but closed.Basilica de la Virgen del CaminoEl Pajar de Oncina Albergue2

    Day 1 - Leon to Oncina

    April 10 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    I had SUCH a good sleep! And the hotel provided a filling breakfast. I was in no rush today, so I didn’t start to walk until about 10:00.

    Walking out of León was easy but via sidewalks and industrial zones. At one point was a big pedestrian overpass, but it was blocked off. I must have looked confused but a local woman redirected me to an alternative route.

    I walked a bit with a woman from the UK, my first pilgrim contact! I was at the albergue by 1:00, with time for a cerveza.

    The albergue I stayed in tonight was charming and peaceful in a sleepy little town. There were 5 pilgrims, from Germany, New Zealand, and Canada. There was a communal meal which included paella. Very yummy.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Villar de Mazarife2VillavantesVery long bridgeKing Pablo

    Day 2 - Oncina to Hospital de Orbigo

    April 11 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Today I walked 25 km, a lot further than I have walked for a long time. But it was fairly flat, about half on dirt roads and half on pavement.

    I stopped twice - once for café con leche and tortilla español, and once for a coke and napolitana. Healthy treats. Now I’m enjoying a cerveza. ☕️🍺

    Tonight I will have dinner at the albergue. I am staying at Albergue Hidalgos.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Well marked trail.2Rain gearDonativo rest stopOverlooking AstorgaTo cross over the train tracksReady for Semana Santa221The best spaghetti carbonara ever!

    Day 3 - Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga

    April 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    There was light rain today, so I tested my rain gear. It was sufficient. My boots are a bit muddy though. The trail was on gravel roads quite a bit, with a red dirt. And more hills as well.

    The slugs and snails and caterpillars were also in abundance on the trail. They seem to like the moist weather.

    I got into Astorga early in the afternoon. I checked into my albergue, it is quite swanky with NO bunk beds and very modern.

    I went to lunch at a Pizzeria and had amazing pasta.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Today's route
    Todays route part 2Santiago PeregrinoSantiago MatamorosThese tiles use the same red clay coating my boots todayArlene and Llew

    Astorga

    April 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I met up with Llew, who will be my partner volunteering at the albergue. We went to see the Gaudi Camino Museum, which was once a Bishop’s Palace. Lots of history and art.

    Some artifacts were from Roman times, some more recent. The building itself was a piece of art, designed by Antonio Gaudi. Even the tiles had designs integrated. Amazing!

    I picked up a cheap bottle of vino tinto on the way back to our accommodation, so I’m set for the night.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler

    Palm Sunday in Astorga

    April 13 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    I managed to watch the Palm Sunday procession here in Astorga this morning. This is one of the things I was looking forward to in Spain 🇪🇸 and I was not disappointed.

    It wasn’t huge, two marching bands and several walker (some appeared to be local dignitaries). Then came Jesus carried by about 50 men walking close together and marching slowly, creating a rocking effect of the ‘float’ - it wasn’t like a parade in North America but I’d call it a float anyway, though it must have been very heavy.

    Walkers and spectators clutched either olive branches or dried palm fronds.

    The procession went along the narrow streets to the Plaza Mayor, where there was a short service, then the crowd dispersed.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Román ruins along the CaminoGaudi Palace with blue skyAstorga CathedralView from the wall looking west toward the mountains1Zoom in on the 'person' on the patioJardín comunidad?1Pilgrim carrying a suitcase. Must be before luggage transport services.1Coffee shopRomán museumOne more of the cathedral2

    More Astorga

    April 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Other than observing Palm Sunday, I spent some time wandering around, enjoyed a café con leche with a slice of Tarte de Manzana 🍎. This is a walled city and had lovely views from the wall. The view reminded me of Calgary with the mountains in the distance.

    We also explored the Museo Romana which displays artifacts from when Romans occupied the area. Many over 2,000 years old!

    Later on I had a cerveza and Patatas Bravas. Tonight we are having a communal meal at the albergue, Brazilian food prepared by our host. She walked the Camino in 2018, then opened her own albergue just a few months later.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Llew and Arlene leaving AstorgaModern church in AstorgaCoffee stop2Tepees for pilgrimsCowboy bar near the tepees 🤠Pilgrim assistance vanOther knitted Camino pals.Llew's buddy named Harry. I am thinking of Diego for my burro amigo. Thoughts?Crosses in the fenceHamburguesaAlbergue teaRefugio Guacelmo

    Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

    April 14 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    This is the day we arrived at the albergue we are to be volunteering at for a bit over two weeks. It was a 20 km walk, mostly up hill.

    I had an oops with my garmin and accidentally turned it off at one stop so we have two videos for today’s walk. There is poor internet here so I may not be as regular with posts.

    We have been introduced to the outgoing hospitaleros. Very nice, and we enjoyed our first afternoon tea party. Should be an interesting time.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    The day began with snow
    Snow on the roof and on the mountains21Stork neighboursCheck in station

    Hospitalera Training Day

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    Peter and Fiona, the outgoing volunteers, trained us for our duties today and introduced us to Susana at the tienda (shop).

    It was snowing when the first pilgrim left before light, and continues to be cold with alternating snow, rain and sun. Even inside it is cold but we do have a fireplace and some space heaters. 🌨️❄️🌧️🌦️🥶 I should have brought more clothes☺️.

    I have added some photos of Refugio Gaucelmo, my temporary home.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    My pilgrim meal last night, muy bueno
    Dormitorio2Other side of dormitorioServiciosView from outside dormitory2Biblioteca y SalónFireplace in SalónCocinaZoom in to see pilgrim statsWelcome deskLava de ropaBotas aquíWe have an herb garden, but to cold and wet to exploreArlene and LlewAfternoon tea April 15Bastones aquíSmall group for afternoon tea

    Hospitalera Day 1

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    Fiona and Peter left this morning so it is just Llew and me to run the show now. We had 14 pilgrims last night.

    I get to clean the upstairs and Llew does the downstairs. My part includes the dormitorio (20 beds) 🛏️and the servicios (showers and toilets) 🚽

    Also I do floors upstairs and laundry.

    Meanwhile Llew cleans the kitchen, office, entryway, and the lounge, including floors. Then he takes out the rubbish and gets the fire started in the fireplace.

    Together we count the money in the donativo boxes and do some minor record keeping.

    Tea is served at 5:00 pm, and breakfast at 7:00 am.

    That will be my routine for the next two and a bit weeks. The photos today are mostly a tour of the albergue.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    4My bedroom, definitely a step up from pilgrim dorms
    The gardenBack side of GaucelmoMap of the village4Albergue Pilar (for sale - interested?)Municipal Albergue and ATM 🏧Map of the regionPublic gardenTienda with pizza! 🍕Church San JoséAnother albergueAnother tienda, with peanut butterPart of our library

    Hospitalera Day 2

    April 17 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    I won’t bore you with the same details every day. Today the clean up was a bit quicker though, so I had time to walk around the village.

    Also, the weather is much more pleasant today, so I can show you our garden. It is quite large and would be a wonderful place to relax later in the season.

    During my walk about I did a bit of shopping at two of the three small tiendas in town. I found peanut butter (which is rare in Spain) and a thermal shirt (which I have been desiring). They say the Camino provides. Happily, it is true.

    Here’s some history. In about 1990, a couple of British friends were walking the Camino and there was nowhere to stay between Astorga and Ponferrada. That is about 50 km! So they had the idea to build an albergue in Rabanal del Camino (not quite half way, but a great stopping point). Together with the Confraternity of St James (UK pilgrim group) and the bishopric of Astorga, a building was renovated. Gaucelmo is named after a hermit from the area.

    Now there are at least ten places for pilgrims to sleep, from tents in the public garden to private rooms in the Posada. There are at least two churches, three tiendas (shops) and several bars/restaurants. And it started with Refugio Gaucelmo!    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    1Sunrise at Gaucelmo
    Just before the rain started.The best seat in the house1English tea1Sopa de vegetalesCalamares y huevos

    Hospitalera Day 3

    April 18 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Today started out with decent weather, then around 11:30 it started to rain and the temperature has dropped since then. There is more snow forecast tonight.

    When we opened at 1:00 we had eight chilly pilgrims waiting at the gate, then only three more since then.

    The weather in Rabanal is cold but the fireplace and the company is warm. Pilgrims from España, Switzerland, USA, Ireland, and Korea joined our tea party. ☕️🍪

    I went out for a pilgrim meal this evening, very filling and tasty. 😋    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Almost sunrise
    A little frost on our roofOur family from Valencia1Morning soundsEvening entertainment

    Hospitalera Day 4

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    Sorry to go on about the weather. Today is forecast to be the coldest day, then tomorrow slightly warmer. We might even get into double digits by Monday or Tuesday.

    Today I decided to bake lemon 🍋 squares for our tea. This was an adventure as I am not accustomed to using a gas range. Setting the oven temperature is a guessing game. I only overcooked them a bit.

    We have another family today, from the Netherlands 🇳🇱 but living as nomads with their ten year old son. He has too much energy considering he walked 20 km today. He was required to do a homeschooling lesson before tea (or in his case, Colacao).

    In the evening a couple of pilgrims pulled a puzzle off the shelf and started in on it. So we couldn’t stop until it was finished. Great fun, except for the one missing piece.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Our Netherlands family with "wheelie"
    Zoomed in to see the snow-capped mountainsMonastery on the rightMusic during serviceCall to worshipTyler provided music at check inAfternoon teaPuzzle makers are not as successful tonight

    Hospitalera Day 5

    April 20 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    Happy Easter Sunday! The sky is much more clear today and we can see plenty of snow on the nearby mountains.

    How many can say they have been to Easter Sunday service in a 12th century church presided over by our neighbours at the Benedictine Monastery? I can now claim that experience!

    Today we had our first Canadian pilgrims, from Ontario. Also Spanish, French, Brazilian, American, Italian, United Kingdom, and Portuguese.
    🇪🇸🇨🇦🇫🇷🇮🇹🇧🇷🇺🇸🇵🇹🇬🇧

    If you are interested in our albergue, we have a Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/share/1FX8m8EVVS/?mibe…    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    2Fold the blankets
    VacuumHenry the vacuumNext the toilets and showersLaundry dutyHang up the laundryCafé con lecheMop the floorsSanitize the bedsCleaning suppliesGabriella from Brazil made 'chocolát' for everybody this morningFold the laundryMake the bed, restWe have wheels today!Afternoon tea

    Hospitalera Day 6

    April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    My family asked for more donkey so I decided that Diego could help with my chores.

    Most of our pilgrims were European today, but we did have one from Mexico 🇲🇽 and two bicigrinos from Argentina 🇦🇷. We also have a wheelchair pilgrim from the Netherlands. She has wheeled all the way from home over about 10 years (in stages).Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Bikers getting ready to go
    1Wheelchair pilgrim on her wayTarte de Santiago12th century monasteryTea time1Tea by the thousand +Large teapot, we use 5-7 teabagsOur herb garden1Informal communal meal by chef Kaitlyn

    Hospitalera Day 7

    April 22 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    It’s hard to believe that we have been here for a week now! Today the sun is shining and the temperature is up to a balmy high of 14 degrees today!

    Llew placed an order with our neighbouring tienda a few days ago, and today I picked up a Tarte de Santiago and fixings to make a beef stew. Yum!

    The monastery/chapel is vey quiet today, all the monks and priests have left. Maybe something to do with the pope’s passing? Last time I went on Camino, in 2022, the queen died. Is there significance?

    We have a small group today, just six pilgrims. Two young girls from USA offered to cook dinner for everyone ❤️. It was lovely, they even used some herbs from the garden. Which seems to be a friendly place for insects also.

    I was asked about the tea. This albergue is managed by the UK organization Confraternity of St James. They stock the albergue with plenty of English tea at the start of the season.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Clear sky at dawn
    Good day to dry clothes in the garden2Diego wanted to show the check in processPasaporte y credencial, por favorSello for your credencial1Add a comment pleaseWalk around townOur youngest pilgrimTea time

    Hospitalera Day 8

    April 23 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    Having a small group of pilgrims made the cleanup easier, and we were finished in record time.

    The sun is shining today so I hung the washing on the line in the garden. It dried very quickly.

    I went for a walk to the end of the village, that didn’t take very long. There are a couple more restaurants I could try. However, I would have to walk uphill to the albergue after eating, so I’m not sure if I want to do that.

    Llew and I cooked dinner for ourselves today with a beef stew, just adding what we found in the pantry to the beef we bought. Tasty! Homecooking was a welcome change.

    We have our youngest pilgrim to date; Helena is not quite two years old and traveling with Mom and Mom’s friend. She spends most of the walking time in the stroller but has been playing in the garden for much of the afternoon. Luckily we have a small room with two bunks that we can offer to families with small children. That keeps the baby out of the main dorm. Everyone is happy about that.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Tiny pilgrim shoes ready to goClose up of our stamp (sello)The first ladybug 🐞 I have seen hereBar at the other end of townMenu includes The Pilgrim's Big Meatball for €9Donativo tents!Afternoon tea

    Hospitalera Day 9

    April 24 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

    Last night’s pilgrims were a bit slow to get going. Especially one fellow who forgot some clothes on the line in the garden, and then ended up forgetting some other things beside his bunk. Oh, well, he has a lighter backpack now.

    This afternoon we had a visit by a lady from the Sanidad department. She took some water samples and checked the water temperature of the showers. “Bueno” she said. Then I think we get a report after the samples are analyzed.

    We have only four pilgrims tonight, very quiet. We had a guest at teatime from the monastery next door. Benjamin is a different kind of hospitalero at the monastery, which is more of a retreat experience. Pilgrims can stay there for a minimum of two nights if they would like some peaceful time to reflect or process their Camino.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Storks nesting in the church tower
    Monks and priestsTea time1Followed by wine time

    Hospitalera Day 10

    April 25 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    I have a total of 18 hospitalera days at Gaucelmo, so I won’t be upset if you get a little bored. Each day is much the same, but the pilgrims each day are so diverse and interesting. We did have a little excitement last night when the smoke alarm in the dormitory went off just before ten pm (pilgrim midnight). For no reason. Disturbing for all.

    The storks were active this morning as we did our rubbish run. They make quite a lot of noise at times.

    Today we were invited to share lunch in the monastery, it was lovely. During lunch we were asked to be silent while one of the monks read the bible and then some music was played. Afterwards we had a short chat before hurrying back to open the gate.

    We have 12 pilgrims today. Four are from the UK. 🇬🇧 They were so happy to speak English and to enjoy the English tea. Plus, Mike from the UK bought some wine so we could all toast his birthday (which was two weeks ago but he didn’t have anyone to celebrate with at the time.)    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    Mooooo
    Tea time - ladies night1Pilgrim's giant meatballIt feels cooler today, but cosy by the fireplace1Llew with his harem

    Hospitalera Day 11

    April 26 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Some of yesterday’s pilgrims were pigs. Usually people are quite tidy and considerate. Not so with a couple of the people from last night. It didn’t help that they spent the whole afternoon drinking. At least one fell out of bed in the night, and there was more snorers than we have had so far. And then there was the mess in the baños. Yikes!

    So most people did not get a very restful sleep. Unlike our other guests who commented on their excellent sleep. I’m glad I have a private room. Even so, the loud thumps were disturbing. Maybe he fell out of bed more than once.

    I do like cattle, and there were several grazing in a field by the rubbish bins. You can still see snow on the mountains.

    Apparently today is ladies only at Refugio Gaucelmo. (Just by chance) We had 6 women, all of them showed up individually. They were so happy with our ladies night ❤️. They had also been in some albergues with men who make excessive noise. Yes, I know that women can also make noise and be messy, but we all believe that tonight is likely to be muy tranquilo. 😌

    Llew was quite impressed to be the only man in the house, and just had to get a photo with all the girls.

    Tonight I went all the way down the hill to the start of town and had the advertised Pilgrim’s Big Meatball. With 🍷 vino tinto of course. It was very good. I spoke with a couple of American pilgrims. They each had a private room at the Posada.

    The sun was shining today but it felt a bit chilly with the breeze. Diego likes the fireplace.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler
    The cat came to visit our garden1Afternoon tea, full house1Hamburguesa y patatas fritas, con cervezaFancy dining room at Gaspar'sJulián CampoTranslated plaqueBoots, boots, boots!

    Hospitalera Day 12

    April 27 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Almost everyone slept well last night, and the cleaning was very easy today.

    Yesterday Larry asked about the mountain in some of my photos, so I have added a screenshot of my best guess. Pico Teleno, thankfully not quite on the Camino. Based on the amount of snow it is probably a higher elevation, and colder.

    I attended Sunday Mass again, this time I understood a bit more. Benjamin from the monastery shared an English version of the readings and I was able to follow at least some of the sermon. And the service is similar in any language.

    Wow! Pilgrims kept coming from the time we opened until about 6:30, when I posted the ‘COMPLETO’ sign. Twenty is our maximum right now, meant to be in one big dorm, though I put a family in our 2 bunk room (4 beds) as Mom is sick with a cold and cough. In the summer we can house 37 pilgrims when we open the ‘barn’ - too cold in there right now.

    This evening I went to Posada de Gaspar for dinner. Usually they find a table for me in the bar (it’s like a small pub) but today they sent me to the dining room. I thought that was only for fancy guests (they have fancy guest rooms) but apparently is okay for overflow. I had the hamburguesa again but this time I was smart and took off the top bun, eating it with a knife and fork. This includes ham, bacon, burger, egg, and cheese on a large bun with tomato and lettuce. Accompanied by fries and a cerveza. Very nice, too much food.

    I’m not sure if I posted a photo of Julián Campo previously, but I am adding one here. We are on Julián Campo Plaza, along with the monastery and church. According to the plaque he was a volunteer in Calcutta, but may have ties to the Camino as well.    Read more

  • Arlene LCamino MixtoTraveler

    Hospitalera Day 13

    April 28 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Another beautiful sunny spring day in Rabanal de Camino! With a small glitch of a power outage. Hopefully it is solved before tea time❤️🫖☕️.

    At least we are done all the cleaning, which wasn’t so bad with 20 pilgrims.

    I visited with Brother Kastian this morning. He runs the monastery gift shop and makes rosaries during quiet times. These are very beautiful.

    Still no power here. I guess it is widespread in Spain and Portugal. We are fine though, and at the moment I seem to have data so will post this. Will follow with photos etc when able.    Read more

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