avr. – juin 2025

Camino Mixto

This year I explore the Camino Frances and the Camino Invierno, with a detour as an Hospitalera in Rabanal del Camino. Topped off with a Mediterranean Cruise! En savoir plus

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Jour 21
lundi 28 avril 2025 à 17:04
☀️ 20 °C
Altitude: 1 159 m
Espagne Santa Colomba de Somoza 42.482033, -6.2847742°28’55” N 6°17’5” W
Hospitalera Day 13 Part 2
28 avril, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Well, that was an adventure! Apparently all of Spain and part of Portugal was without electricity for about 17 hours! The rumours in our small village expanded on that, with speculation that power was out in almost all of Europe and even Turkey!

We were actually better off than most, I guess. We have gas power for our stove and hot water. So pilgrims could have a hot shower and we still had our afternoon tea, ☕️ with water heated by the stove instead of the electric kettles. Restaurants were open with a limited menu, as long as you could pay with cash. Our local tienda was open, also for cash transactions.

Apparently in Astorga all shops and restaurants shut down completely when the power went out. Here it was business as usual - except no phone internet, or lights. And no way to charge the phone. I am very grateful for our situation here in Rabanal.

The worst was being unable to find out anything about what was happening, as cell service was cut off as well, except for the occasional signal. So we just speculated, and bonded over candlelit dinner and fireplace chats.

As usual, we had some interesting pilgrims. There was Valentin and his dog Aria. Aria had to sleep in the garden but Valentin got a bunk.

Regine and her daughter Coline started their Camino in Sarria, walked to Santiago de Compostela, then turned around to walk back home to Belgium! 🇧🇪

There was a young woman from Hungary who is walking the Camino in 17 days! That’s about 50 km per day. And less than half the number of days I used!

Everyone went to bed fairly early, hoping for electricity to arrive by morning.En savoir plus
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VoyageurWe had heard the "Outage" included parts of the South of France, with images of people walking away from "Stranded" TGVs (which are also electric)!
29/04/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurWe were pretty lucky to be on the Camino, where people walk and often pay in cash.
29/04/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurGlad you are back online. Did the Rapture come up over candlelight last night?
29/04/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurI didn’t notice it 🥰
29/04/2025RépondreTraduire
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Jour 22
mardi 29 avril 2025 à 07:19
⛅ 7 °C
Altitude: 1 159 m
Espagne Santa Colomba de Somoza 42.481995, -6.28483342°28’55” N 6°17’5” W
3
Hospitalera Day 14
29 avril, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C
Hallelujah! I was awakened at about 5:30 by the washing machine beeping that it was finished. The same machine that locked my clothes inside when the power went out.

During the night I woke up to use the baño and could see some lights in the distance. So I went out on the balcony. Probably the lights I saw were Astorga, which was encouraging. But when I looked up I could see SO many stars! ⭐️ It was amazing!

Happily we could serve our usual pilgrim breakfast (desayuno) of café con leche y tostada (coffee and toast) as electricity was fully restored.

I went for a walk around the village today and lucked out. The church a bit further down the hill was unlocked for a change. So I got a few photos.

Then I came across the cat. 🐈‍⬛ When Rachel and I walked through in 2018, we saw a black cat sitting on a fence. Today I saw a black cat sitting on a chair across from that fence. You can decide if it is the same cat. 🐈‍⬛

As I walked around the village I noticed that you can almost always see the church by our albergue. So you can’t really get lost. See how many photos you can see that include our 12th century church, Iglesia de Rabanal del Camino.

When I returned I had a message from a family who were guests during our first week. I told Venry (age 10) to take a photo with the ladies in Alameda Park when he gets to Santiago. They have arrived, so his Mom sent me the photo today.En savoir plus
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Voyageur It’s the same cat.
29/04/2025RépondreTraduire
I think it's the same cat, too, Arlene. I can't believe this is already Day 14 of your hospitalera adventure. Way to go! I've been very busy and just starting on the newsletter tonight. You have a real treasure trove of photos and stories. Thanks so much for sharing. [Nick]
29/04/2025RépondreTraduire
Voyageur❤️❤️
30/04/2025Répondre
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Jour 23
mercredi 30 avril 2025 à 07:54
☁️ 7 °C
Altitude: 1 160 m
Espagne Santa Colomba de Somoza 42.481992, -6.28486742°28’55” N 6°17’6” W
2
Hospitalera Day 15
30 avril, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C
Soon you will see progress on my map, as I leave Rabanal and Gaucelmo on Sunday.

Yesterday we received two bicigrinos, who rode all the way from Leon in one day. That took me four days to walk, lol. 🤪 It is only about 75 km, which is not bad for a biker. 🚵‍♀️🚵‍♂️

Today we had the lawn cut in the jardín. It really needed it. Luckily the family that does the mowing has a ride-on mower. It is a large area.

I took a quick walk around the village, it is a cool day. 15 degrees C right now but doesn’t feel that warm. There are lots of trees in bloom.

I also stopped at the tienda to say Hola to Susana. And buy junk food.

Llew’s friend Mateo, from Italy, is visiting this evening. They met during the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon a couple of years ago. The strange part is that Llew speaks English and Mateo speaks Italian. They communicate via google translate. It is very interesting to watch two senior citizens have a conversation using the translate app of their phones.

Mateo also cooked a very nice pasta meal for us. The meal was so good that I didn’t take a photo until it was gone. Sorry.En savoir plus
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Voyageur Florida biking with less cold weather gear is much nicer. 75 km is a decent ride (47 miles to us)
01/05/2025RépondreTraduire
Voyageur😎❤️
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Jour 24
jeudi 1 mai 2025 à 06:51
☁️ 5 °C
Altitude: 1 159 m
Espagne Santa Colomba de Somoza 42.482047, -6.28481342°28’55” N 6°17’5” W
Hospitalera Day 16
1 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C
When Llew bought the beef last week he bought a lot, so we cooked the rest today. More or less the same beef 🥩 stew with potatoes. 🥔 Tasty.

Most days we have pilgrims arriving all afternoon. Today we had seven waiting for the gate to open, then no more. Until about 6:40, then we got one more who had walked over 50 km!!

Our church has several services per day, see photo. Today was the first opportunity I have had to attend Vespers at 7:00, so I also volunteered to do a reading. It was an interesting experience. The service was in Latin, and we could follow along with the program. Then several pilgrims did a short reading in their own language. There was Spanish, German, English (me), French, and Korean.En savoir plus
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VoyageurBeautiful about the Vespers reading. Speaking God’s Word out loud often gives it more and deeper meaning. Do you remember what the passage was?
01/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurI am not sure the exact passage but it was about giving and receiving in the name of God.
02/05/2025RépondreTraduire
Voyageur:>)
02/05/2025Répondre
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Jour 25
vendredi 2 mai 2025 à 06:30
🌧 9 °C
Altitude: 1 159 m
Espagne Santa Colomba de Somoza 42.482047, -6.28481342°28’55” N 6°17’5” W
Hospitalera Day 17
2 mai, Espagne ⋅ 🌧 9 °C
It definitely more chilly today 🥶. If you ever volunteer here, bring warm clothes. And O’Keefe’s Working Hands lotion.

I got Diego to help with desayuno (breakfast) and té (tea) today. He had his friend the kiwi help with tea as well.

We are completo again today. 20 pilgrims - full! In the summer we have more beds but also more hospitaleros.

Also our relief has arrived! Normally they would arrive tomorrow but there are some special events tomorrow in the village that they have been invited to attend.En savoir plus
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VoyageurAre you departing in the morning, or have you also been invited to the special events?
02/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurI did attend the special mass but was not invited for lunch. There was also a blessing for a new bench in our garden. I did not tend but will add a photo.
03/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurI leave Sunday morning.
03/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurBe well.
03/05/2025Répondre
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Jour 26
samedi 3 mai 2025 à 11:57
☁️ 11 °C
Altitude: 1 159 m
Espagne Santa Colomba de Somoza 42.482048, -6.28481342°28’55” N 6°17’5” W
1
Hospitalera Day 18
3 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C
This is it, our last day as volunteers at Refugio Gaucelmo! Our relief came by in the morning and helped us to clean. Then we had to count the money.

As I mentioned yesterday, there was a special celebration today, actually more than one.

First, there was a bench donated to our garden for which some important people gathered for a blessing.

Then there was a special mass in honour of the former prior of the monastery next door. He has now returned to Germany to the ‘home base’ and been promoted. To Abbott Presidente. So this mass was attended by several priests, nuns, and local dignitaries. This was followed by special luncheon, to which I was not invited. The bishop of Astorga did get an invitation, so he attended.

Later on Abbott President Javier stopped by for a drink. He is actually a very funny guy.

Please check out the video on the footprint. The man who does the music for church had a back up today. I call him the Maragato music man.

He lives in Rabanal and plays during mass. A recorder and a drum at the same time. And today the extra musician had some kind of instruments in his hands. Maragato are the people who have lived in this area around Astorga for generations. They have special music, dancing, and food.

While we were at mass we had an abundance of pilgrims and the ‘barn’ was opened, so I got to take a look.

Now I am a little superfluous but will soon start packing as I leave in the morning. I am walking westward to Santiago. Llew will be walking eastward to Astorga, then catching a bus to Burgos where he will meet his friends who are walking the Camino. They will walk to Santiago and beyond, to Finisterre.En savoir plus
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Voyageur LOL.
03/05/2025Répondre
VoyageurCastañuelas
03/05/2025RépondreTraduire
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Jour 27
dimanche 4 mai 2025 à 07:16
🌫 7 °C
Altitude: 1 159 m
Espagne Santa Colomba de Somoza 42.482047, -6.28481342°28’55” N 6°17’5” W
Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca
4 mai, Espagne ⋅ 🌫 7 °C
It felt really great to walk again today. While I really enjoyed being a hospitalera, I am super happy to be a pilgrim today.

This was the most difficult day of my trip so far. The morning started with a climb to the highest point on the Camino (from 1150 m at Rabanal to 1530 m), then down to 580 m at Molinaseca. That’s a lot of elevation change!

Other than muddy patches, the uphill was fairly easy. It was the down that was hard. Some was fine, but a lot was rocky and/or wet and/or mud. The photos are good but don’t do it justice. Towards the end of the day I was walking with Umberto from Rome. We gave each other moral support, paused for flower 🌼 photos, and congratulated each other on arrival to the albergue.

Near the highest point is the Cruz de Ferro, the Iron Cross. The hermit Gaucelmo (for whom the albergue in Rabanal is named) lived in the area and was involved in adding the cross. Initially it was just a wooden pole that was significant to Celts and then Romans. Once the cross was added it became an important symbol of the Christian pilgrimage.

Pilgrims carry a stone to the Cruz that represents a burden, sin, or worry. When you leave the rock at the foot of the cross, you symbolically leave your burden as well.En savoir plus
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VoyageurGreat pictures.
05/05/2025RépondreTraduire
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Jour 27
dimanche 4 mai 2025 à 10:24
☁️ 8 °C
Altitude: 1 444 m
Espagne Santa Colomba de Somoza 42.489383, -6.38528742°29’22” N 6°23’7” W
2 2
Rabanal to Molinaseca Pt 2
4 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C
The views were so amazing that I took a lot of photos.

Manjarin is an interesting place a bit past the Iron Cross. A man named Tomás used to live there, and said he was the last living Templar Knight. He has been ill, but his place was open and I got a stamp and a photo with Oso (bear).

There is also a food truck nearby. I waited until El Acebo to stop for lunch, then carried on to Molinaseca.En savoir plus
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Voyageur Great tribute to the cyclist.
05/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurYes.
05/05/2025Répondre
Voyageur Looks like quite the character!
05/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurHe seems to be
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Jour 27
dimanche 4 mai 2025 à 14:58
☁️ 16 °C
Altitude: 582 m
Espagne Molinaseca 42.537228, -6.51778342°32’14” N 6°31’4” W
1
Rabanal to Molinaseca Pt 3
4 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
I think I’ll include the flower 🌺 photos here, though you can see many flowers along the trails already.

Also, the Relive video of the walk. Have a look at the elevation!
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VoyageurGREAT video.
05/05/2025RépondreTraduire
Voyageur❤️
07/05/2025Répondre
VoyageurWow! What a walk!
06/05/2025RépondreTraduire
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Jour 28
lundi 5 mai 2025 à 07:38
🌫 9 °C
Altitude: 574 m
Espagne Molinaseca 42.540947, -6.52615342°32’27” N 6°31’34” W
Molinaseca to Borrenes - Camino Invierno
5 mai, Espagne ⋅ 🌫 9 °C
I walked about 25 km today but it felt almost as hard as yesterday. I did make two errors which probably added an extra kilometre or two.

First, in Ponferrada, I thought the start of the Camino Invierno was close to the Castillo de Templarios. In fact, I had walked past it and if I had turned around I would have seen the sign. But instead I got to walk with Giorgio from Vancouver and have coffee with Umberto from Italy. And I helped some Spaniards find the Invierno route as well.

The other mistake was when I got to a junction where I chose to take a “shortcut.” After walking a bit I realized I was on the wrong trail. And the trail I wanted was straight up! I did save some kilometres but it was very hard.

Otherwise the walk was lovely. Mostly flat to Ponferrada, then quite hilly. You will see if you look at the Relive videos. One is the Camino Frances to Ponferrada and the other is the Invierno to Borrenes. I didn’t mean to zero my watch, but since I did, it worked out.

You might be wondering what is this Camino Invierno. If you know Spanish you will know that means winter. There are many Camino routes in Spain 🇪🇸, all leading to Santiago de Compostela, the resting place of the remains of Santiago, the apostle St James.

The most travelled route is the Camino Frances. At one point someone decided that there should be an alternative route in winter, when some of the mountain passes are impassable due to snow. The Camino de Invierno was born. It is a bit longer than the same part of the Frances, and quieter, as few people know about it.

You may have guessed that you don’t have to wait until winter to walk this route. So far I have seen nine pilgrims. Tonight in my albergue there are just two of us. Very quiet.En savoir plus
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Jour 28
lundi 5 mai 2025 à 12:44
☁️ 15 °C
Altitude: 566 m
Espagne Borrenes 42.49079, -6.72644942°29’27” N 6°43’35” W
2
2 1
Molinaseca to Borrenes Pt 2
5 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Part 2 is from Ponferrada to one of the villages I walked through.

Along the trail was sort of tunnel called el Caléyon. It was associated with the Romans and their gold mining. More on that tomorrow.En savoir plus
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Voyageur What is this?
05/05/2025RépondreTraduire
Voyageur Very intriguing
05/05/2025RépondreTraduire
Voyageur Enjoy this pic of you! A whole story in it.
05/05/2025RépondreTraduire
Voyageur❤️❤️
06/05/2025Répondre
Voyageur I am not sure. Water pipe I think.
06/05/2025RépondreTraduire
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Jour 28
lundi 5 mai 2025 à 13:32
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 563 m
Espagne Priaranza del Bierzo 42.495638, -6.6983342°29’44” N 6°41’54” W
2
Molinaseca to Borrenes Pt 3
5 mai, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
Just a few more, plus my Relive videos.

You can see the shortcut I took. Seemed like a good idea but boy was it steep! I did save some kilometres though, so maybe okay.

We have a very nice albergue, there are only two pilgrims in a three bed room. Real beds with sheets plus towels! Luxury! We washed clothes, had a cerveza from the fridge, and walked around the village.

There is hardly anyone here. The lady at the farmacia called the lady at the one restaurant in town and she stayed open to serve us bocadillos. Very nice people!En savoir plus
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Voyageur What a treat
06/05/2025RépondreTraduire
Voyageur Yes!
07/05/2025Répondre
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Jour 29
mardi 6 mai 2025 à 06:43
🌙 3 °C
Altitude: 566 m
Espagne Borrenes 42.49078, -6.72642842°29’27” N 6°43’35” W
4 2
Borrenes to Puente de Domingo Flórez
6 mai, Espagne ⋅ 🌙 3 °C
One of the reasons I wanted to walk the Camino Invierno was to see the Roman gold mines. Today was the day!

The first photo explains it, but basically the Romans destroyed the mountain by using water at high velocity in order to access the gold. In the first to third century AD. Amazing engineering feat, beautiful scenery, but actually an ecological disaster.

I wasn’t actually certain how to get to the best viewpoint, Mirador Orellán, so I just walked until I saw a sign indicating a path. At that point I left the Camino and followed a hiking trail. It was well marked and had several explanation signs. Very helpful.

So today I walked about 22 km. Half up, up, up. Followed by down, down, down. I was pretty tired when I got in. And hungry, too.

What a day! The scenery was outstanding. It kind of reminded me of crossing the Pyrenees on the Camino Frances. The mountains in the distance were gorgeous, and I did climb a mountain!En savoir plus
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VoyageurPretty interesting about the gold mine.
06/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurYes
07/05/2025Répondre
VoyageurIt looks like you are on the edge of the red cliff. Very cool. Love the history!
06/05/2025RépondreTraduire
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Jour 29
mardi 6 mai 2025 à 10:43
☀️ 7 °C
Altitude: 923 m
Espagne Borrenes 42.456867, -6.75158842°27’25” N 6°45’6” W
Borrenes to Puente de Domingo Pt 2
6 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C
I only saw three pilgrims today and they were Canadian! From Montreal and Toronto. They were coming up the mountain when I was heading down. They didn’t have backpacks with them, and I’m not sure where they were staying. I’m glad I did the Mirador as part of my walk, though it would have been nice without the pack, lol.

I booked a private room for tonight as there were not many choices. They give a pilgrim discount, and I have a shower and sink in my room but the toilet is down the hall. Last night’s accommodation was so quiet. Here it sounds like parties happening. Or fights, I’m not sure. I guess I will be using my earplugs.En savoir plus
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VoyageurMagnificent view!
06/05/2025RépondreTraduire
Stunning! [Gen]
08/05/2025Répondre
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Jour 30
mercredi 7 mai 2025 à 07:39
☀️ 5 °C
Altitude: 385 m
Espagne San Pedro de Trones 42.418033, -6.82435542°25’5” N 6°49’28” W
Puente de Domingo to Villamartin
7 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C
Last night it was not a fiesta or a fight, but a football match on the television in the bar, right below my room. Once the game was over all was quiet.

Today’s walk was SO much easier. There was some up and down, but not so drastic as yesterday. I walked 27 km today and still felt good to walk around town a bit.

This morning I entered Galicia, the region of Spain 🇪🇸 where Santiago de Compostela is located. Which is still about 205 km away at end of day.

I walked along the Rio Sil for part of the day. It is a large river. In the town of O Barco de Valdeorras, they even have a malecón along the river, with shops and restaurants, and a park.

I took a few wrong turns today, either due to poor signage or my poor attention. I will never know. None of the mistakes took me far out of the way, so no problem.

In the town of Sobradelo I met two characters. First a man who showed me a paper to look online for a story about Manolo Escobar. I thought that was him, but the famous Manolo died in 2013, and I couldn’t understand this man very well.

Then at the bar where I had a café con leche there was a drunk man who paid for my coffee. At first I thought he was a pilgrim and he seemed to have a French accent. Also hard to understand. At least he was a happy drunk. 🤪

I walked beside many vineyards today, I hope to find some wine to drink soon. I haven’t had a pilgrim menu since Molinaseca and have had beer with my evening meals.

There were also a lot of poppies and roses along the trail today. So of course I took many photos.En savoir plus
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VoyageurInteresting to landscape with the water
17/05/2025RépondreTraduire
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Jour 30
mercredi 7 mai 2025 à 10:43
☀️ 12 °C
Altitude: 352 m
Espagne Sobradelo 42.414712, -6.91228742°24’53” N 6°54’44” W
3
Puente Domingo to Villamartin Pt 2
7 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
I wasn’t sure where I would stay tonight, I decided to see how things went. There was one town I considered but the location of the albergue wasn’t clear. So I walked on.

I stopped in Villamartin de Valledeorras at the municipal albergue. It was locked. So I tried calling via WhatsApp. Luckily that worked, and he remotely let me in.

I seem to be the only person here, yet many beds have been slept in. Does that mean it isn’t cleaned regularly? Probably. And the washing machines are full, probably sheets. So I didn’t bother washing today.

Wifi doesn’t work. And when I had a shower the water flooded out of the stall. I know about cleaning the hair clogs from my own hospitalera experience. I mopped up the mess, but I think this place is getting a poor review from me (after I leave).

At least I have a place to sleep, clean sheets, and a lower bunk! And it should be very quiet in the dormitory tonight.En savoir plus
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Voyageur Good you could find a clean bed.
09/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurApparently they had a big group prior and the cleaner ‘didn’t have time’ to clean. I’m not sure if the cleaner did anything.
09/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurBut yes, I was happy to have a clean bed.
09/05/2025RépondreTraduire
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Jour 31
jeudi 8 mai 2025 à 07:34
☀️ 8 °C
Altitude: 304 m
Espagne Vilamartín 42.410283, -7.06160642°24’37” N 7°3’42” W
Villamartin de Valdeorras to Soldón
8 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C
The albergue was a little spooky last night, and I did have a couple of strange dreams. But I woke up ready to walk.

I started and finished the day next to the Rio Sil, but much of the time I was far above it.

It was an easy walk to A Rua, then up into the hills. This is wine country - Ribiera Sacra. I walked past many vineyards today.

Along one part of the path (along a quiet paved road) there were several pieces of art attached to trees and posts, then a village with similar art. Apparently the artist lives in the village, where there was even more art.

The winery there (Alvaredos-Hobbs) provides a pilgrim rest stop. It was so welcome! I was just thinking I would like an apple, and there it was!En savoir plus
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VoyageurWow on the art.
09/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurEven more today. Will post later.
09/05/2025RépondreTraduire
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Jour 31
jeudi 8 mai 2025 à 12:17
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 269 m
Espagne Quiroga 42.446213, -7.22420942°26’46” N 7°13’27” W
Villamartin to Soldón Pt 2
8 mai, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
I was walking through the tiny hillside town of Montefurado and noticed that the church was open. This is rare on the Camino Invierno so I took the time and went inside. A local lady showed me around. It dates to the 18th century and has both Baroque and Rococo features. As well as the local red stone. Fascinating!

This is the third day of not seeing pilgrims, but I did talk with a few Spanish people. And the church lady told me there was a Canadian lady there yesterday.

Tonight I am alone by choice. To break up the stages, I am staying at a tourist apartment. It is a bit more expensive, but I should rest well tonight. Even though it is right beside a railroad track and a highway overpass, it seems very quiet.

That is good, since I have another long day tomorrow. For some reason, the Camino planner I used underestimated distances. Now that I am here I can see the real distance. This Camino doesn’t have as many options for accommodations, so I will be doing a long day, unless I change my plans (which I often do).En savoir plus
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VoyageurWe are having a Philbert Caesar Salad tonight. Our first toast will be to the venerable pilgrim.
09/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurI am honoured. I will be eating my leftovers. I carried them a long way, so I plan to enjoy them.
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Jour 31
jeudi 8 mai 2025
⛅ 18 °C
Altitude: 269 m
Espagne Quiroga 42.44595, -7.22382842°26’45” N 7°13’26” W
Short update
8 mai, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
In case you were wondering about me, I am still walking in Spain. 🇪🇸

Yesterday and today I did not have wifi so haven’t posted. Today I will just do this post and no photos.

I stayed in a town called Villamartin de Valdeorras yesterday, by myself in a large albergue. It was a little spooky.

Today I am at a small tourist apartment in the town of Soldón. And because it is in the middle of nowhere, the host picked up some groceries so I can cook!

Tomorrow I should have wifi so will post several updates with photos then. Here is one though- my bed for tonight. I also have fluffy towels and will be cooking a pasta primavera, more or less.En savoir plus
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VoyageurMore or less.
08/05/2025RépondreTraduire
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Jour 32
vendredi 9 mai 2025 à 07:06
☁️ 8 °C
Altitude: 266 m
Espagne Quiroga 42.445928, -7.22417242°26’45” N 7°13’27” W
2
Soldón to A Pobra do Brollón
9 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C
I walked 31 km today - more than I had planned, but I am blaming it on Michael from The Wise Pilgrim. He has a Camino Planner and according to my plan it was supposed to be 21 km. Either he made a mistake or I did.

And in the first town with coffee, I saw at three taxis that I could have used. I was tempted. But I am here to walk, so I walked.

There were two large hills in today’s route, and a descent in the middle. But the hills weren’t too steep, so I just took it slow and I managed. I actually felt okay at the end of the day. 🥰

Bonus today - I met pilgrims! It has been three days since I spoke with anyone not local to the area. Which is interesting, but today when I met a woman from Toronto, I was thrilled! We walked for quite a while together. It was so nice to speak in English for a change. And to understand every word spoken, lol. I understand a fair bit of Spanish now, but I still probably miss quite a bit of the conversation.

I did say pilgrims. I met Claudius from Germany again, as well as several others in the albergue (it is not deserted this time). Two Germans, myself, and five Spaniards.En savoir plus
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Voyageur Is there a reason to go on?🍷😏
09/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurYes, keep following.
10/05/2025RépondreTraduire
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Jour 32
vendredi 9 mai 2025 à 09:29
☁️ 10 °C
Altitude: 238 m
Espagne Quiroga 42.47263, -7.28242242°28’21” N 7°16’57” W
2
Soldón to A Pobra Pt 2
9 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
This albergue is about ten times better than the one in Villamartin. It is clean, the Hospitalera was onsite, the beds were already made, the kitchen was modern and clean, and there was a washing machine that also dried your clothes! So I washed almost all of my clothes. Except for the one sock which I forgot.

Since I carried my 500 gm or more of leftovers, I was pleased to have a nutritious dinner. And another thing this albergue provides is wine to purchase. Yes, please! Since I have been walking past vineyards for the last three or four days, I was ready to partake. So I had some Ribeira Sacra vino. 🍷 🍷 It was very nice, and Claudius helped me with the bottle.En savoir plus
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VoyageurWe have just opened a bottle here. Toast up shortly.
09/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurWe have just lifted a toast to the pilgrim.
09/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurThanks!
10/05/2025Répondre
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Jour 33
samedi 10 mai 2025 à 07:51
☁️ 8 °C
Altitude: 409 m
Espagne A Pobra do Brollón 42.550014, -7.39392242°33’0” N 7°23’38” W
2 2
A Pobra do Brollón to Monforte de Lemos
10 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C
Pilgrim life is very sweet today! A short walk (14 km) with a big treat to follow! ❤️❤️

As rain was in the forecast I started with my poncho half ready for use, but it did not rain until much later.

There was a smallish hill today, nothing like the two yesterday. And it rained most of the night, so was muddy in places. But it was a very nice walk through forests and a couple of villages.

I walked with Claudius part of the time and we walked into the city of Monforte de Lemos together, because we had a plan.

If you have watched the movie The Way or walked a Camino, then you will know about Parador Hotels. They are a hotel chain in Spain 🇪🇸 mostly in historic buildings such as monasteries or castles converted into luxury accommodations. Think Fairmont but add a few centuries.

Anyway, there is one in this city. And Paradors have a pilgrim discount, depending on availability. Claudius had stayed at a different location once and got a really good price as a last minute deal. So our plan was just to go and ask. Which we did. I used my best Español. And the lady at the desk was most helpful. It was still a big splurge, but when else will I do this?

We each got a room, including breakfast, for €153. I am not sharing! Considering many nights I pay €8-14, it balances, right?

And the best part was when I asked what time check-in would be, and she said that the rooms are ready now! At 11:00!

So we dropped off our gear in the rooms and went down the hill to find food.

Once we ate, checked out a church, and I bought some food for tomorrow, I climbed back up the hill and I am not going anywhere until tomorrow!En savoir plus
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Voyageur Pretty swish
10/05/2025RépondreTraduire
Voyageur❤️❤️
11/05/2025Répondre
VoyageurThe kilometrage signage is confusing. Does it indicate to hundredth of a kilometre?
10/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurYes, three decimal places.
11/05/2025RépondreTraduire
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Jour 33
samedi 10 mai 2025 à 11:19
🌧 11 °C
Altitude: 366 m
Espagne Monforte de Lemos 42.52393, -7.5104842°31’26” N 7°30’38” W
A Pobra to Monforte Pt 2
10 mai, Espagne ⋅ 🌧 11 °C
Once I got back to the room I made use of the bathtub and had a lovely soak.

Then I had a chat with Greg before meeting with Claudius and Lise in the hotel bar for a cerveza con limón.

I also took a few photos of the hotel. I just feel so grateful to be here! Tomorrow I’ll be back to a municipal albergue.En savoir plus
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VoyageurA little luxury is always a good thing.
10/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurI can’t complain 🥰
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Jour 34
dimanche 11 mai 2025 à 08:31
🌧 8 °C
Altitude: 366 m
Espagne Monforte de Lemos 42.52392, -7.51052542°31’26” N 7°30’38” W
2 2
Monforte de Lemos to Diomondi
11 mai, Espagne ⋅ 🌧 8 °C
I left later than usual today - breakfast was included and I consider it my Mother’s Day brunch. Excellent breakfast, and I was on my way by 9 am.

But I took a wrong turn leaving the Parador. Down the hill was easy, but then I followed a group wearing backpacks. I don’t know where they were going but it wasn’t to the Camino route. See if you can notice on the Relive video.

Once I got out of Monforte de Lemos, the walking was easy for quite a while, along the side of a quiet road. There was also light rain.

Eventually the climbing began and for a while it was easy. Until it wasn’t. The route went off pavement and the trail through the trees was pretty but very muddy in places. My boots 🥾 stayed dry but are now covered in mud. At one point I was climbing upwards in an active stream.

But I made it. Once I reached the top elevation the trail went back onto the road. Road walking isn’t usually as nice, but it beats getting stuck in the mud.

Today I am back in a municipal albergue, in a tiny town with no services. That means I only spent €10 today, just the bed. I brought food with me, which I brought yesterday.

And it appears I am once again the only pilgrim. But there is a lady working here for a few hours; it is a clean and modern albergue, attached to a 12th century church. The hospitalera showed me the church - Church of San Pelayo. I think the albergue was once the priest’s quarters.

It is a bit strange (other than being so quiet). There is a small kitchen with a microwave and a toaster, but no dishes or utensils of any kind. I knew this in advance so I was aware to bring my own.

And it is wheelchair friendly! The trail I was on earlier was NOT, but a wheelchair could have taken the road. Its just further.En savoir plus
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VoyageurLOL. Until it wasn’t.
12/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurYep 🤪
12/05/2025Répondre
Voyageur Barely visible but I spotted it.
12/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurEasier if you zoom in
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Jour 34
dimanche 11 mai 2025 à 18:47
🌧 12 °C
Altitude: 494 m
Espagne O Saviñao 42.594513, -7.71201342°35’40” N 7°42’43” W
2 2 1
Diomondi to Vilaseco
11 mai, Espagne ⋅ 🌧 12 °C
It’s interesting when you go off-stage on the Camino Invierno (that is, not following John Brierly’s guidebook). At least for me that means being alone. When I was in Monforte de Lemos I saw lots of pilgrims. But none since, except for the one guy who passed me yesterday.

Good thing I don’t mind being alone. Maybe later in the season there would be more. And closer to Santiago that will change as another route merges with this one about two days from now.

This morning I had the breakfast that I had packed with me (coffee and pastry) and started to walk. I will also include my dinner from yesterday, noodles. Anything had to be microwave friendly.

The first two km were a steep descent, followed by a river crossing and a steep ascent. I have to confess that I checked alternate routes and there is one that follows the road. Further, but on pavement. I’m so glad that I stayed on the Camino. The route wasn’t overly steep, with much on Roman roads, if you can imagine. I just took my time.

You may remember a few days ago that the Camino route followed the Rio Sil. After I left Quiroga and climbed those two big hills I left that valley. Today I crossed another important river in this region, the Rio Miño. This is the heart of Ribeiro Sacra (sacred riverside) wine country, as you may notice the vineyards along the river.

The Rio Miño is also important in the Camino world. The long bridge approaching Portomarin crosses the Miño. And the Miño is also the border between Spain and Portugal 🇵🇹 where the Camino Portuguese crosses into Spain. 🇪🇸

Enough of a geography lesson. Back to my walk.

I did make a detour. At one point the route went down a little path and across a rock ‘bridge’ - you tell me which bridge you would prefer. Maybe in drier conditions that would be okay, but it was raining almost all day and that stream was moving fast! On the video you will see where I turned around. The detour didn’t even add much distance.

After that it was an easy walk to Chantada where I had a coffee break and got a stamp at the Oficina de Turismo. Then I continued to walk, gently uphill on a beautiful trail / cow path (evidence obvious). I ended up at Hotel Vilaseco, which may be my favourite place to stay, not counting the Parador.En savoir plus
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Voyageur If I was hiking alone I would choose the second one.
12/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurSmart choice
13/05/2025RépondreTraduire
Voyageur That is a rather large one.
12/05/2025RépondreTraduire
VoyageurI am just starting to see more of them. I guess I am leaving wine 🍷 country and entering farm country
13/05/2025RépondreTraduire
Oforno=oven [Gen]
14/05/2025RépondreTraduire
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