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Dos Camino
  • Arlene L
  • Arlene L

Dos Camino

I walked from Santiago de Compostela to Muxia/Finisterra, then Porto to Santiago on the Camino Portuguese Coastal. Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 12, 2022
  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler

    CDG

    September 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Paris airport connection actually went surprisingly well. I had a prime seat to get off the plane quickly. Customs went smoothly. Then I just had to make the long journey to Terminal 3. But I made it in time for my preferred flight. So I didn’t have to take my backup flight to Madrid😎. I even had time for a latte!Read more

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler
    2

    Santiago de Compostela

    September 13, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    I walked into Santiago de Compostela from the airport. It was lovely. I expected rain but when I started to walk, the sun broke through. Poncho on and off about 4 times. Still raining but now I am enjoying a cerveza. I have a cute tiny private room so I can start with a good night’s sleep.Read more

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler
    1

    More Santiago

    September 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Just a few more pictures of Santiago. I will start walking tomorrow so you should see movement on my map. Here you see some shots from Alameda Park, barely missing a downpour in the Praza do Obradoiro, and I think I found the Faculty of Nursing at Santiago’s University, USC. Plus I found some free walking sticks.Read more

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler

    Camino Fisterre Day 1

    September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Leaving Santiago de Compostela this morning. I am heading toward the ocean. This should take about 5 days. I left the Loop Inn and found my desayuno (breakfast). Tarte de Queso sounds like cheese but tastes like cheesecake.Read more

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler
    Yellow arrow? Footprint? Both?

    Santiago to Castelo

    September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Beautiful walk out of Santiago. There were horses and goats grazing, fields of corn, canopies of grapes, picturesque horreos (miniature granaries), and groves of fragrant eucalyptus trees, some forming tunnels of shade. I stopped at a cafe for another snack, empanada de manzanilla. So I actually had cheesecake for breakfast and apple pie for lunch. 😜☕️🥧 There was also a beautiful view of the cathedral in the distance when I looked back at Santiago. Plus I found a nice place to buy. Just a bit of a fixer-upper.Read more

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler
    Albergue Anjana

    Castelo to Negreira

    September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The guidebook said a hill after the coffee break. It didn’t say that it went on forever! The only good parts: shade and mostly soft path. There was even some logging. After the hill, the walk was more in the sun, and the temperature was rising. Thankfully not like summer, but hot enough that I drained my water bladder. I had only put in one litre, but had a backup bottle so I was okay. There was a nice bridge on the route: Ponte Maceira, bridge of the apples. I found my albergue easily and relaxed with a cerveza and a soak in the pool before showering. I guess I should eat more than pie eventually.Read more

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler

    Camino Fisterre Day 2

    September 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    I am getting ready for day 2. I forgot to add the maps, so will add those here for day one and two. Plus a couple of photos from Negreira.

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler
    Café worth the stair climb

    Negreira to A Peña

    September 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Just leaving Negreira there is a lovely detour on a dirt trail along the river. Very quiet and peaceful. The only problem was that I got lost 🧭. The trail was not well marked. At first it was okay, a Spanish pilgrim kept catching up with me and guiding me in the right direction. But then I came to a fork and he was nowhere to be found. I did figure it out, and was so happy to see the yellow arrows again. After a bit I came to a café but wasn’t sure the climb up the steps would be worth it. Definitely it was. Café con leche and Tortilla Español. Yum! I ate better today.Read more

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler

    A Peña to Santa Mariña

    September 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Fortified with caffeine and carbs, I continued past fragrant eucalyptus groves and pungent manure in barns and on fields. More manure. This is quite an agricultural area, lots of corn, cows, some horses and sheep. I saw many more horreos, and walked along a ridge with nearby Spanish windmills. After arriving at my albergue I showered and did some laundry. Soon I will go in search of beer.Read more

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler

    Camino Fisterre Day 3

    September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Just the two of us in the albergue, Nancy from Belgium and myself. 24 empty beds in the room. We had an excellent pilgrim meal for 12€. We were on the road before 8:00, just before sunrise.

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler

    Santa Mariña to Lago

    September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We got a lesson in Spanish agriculture this morning. Not like combining back home. They have a single machine that cuts the corn, grinds it up, throws the works into the following truck and leaves just short stalks. Then I stopped for first the café con leche of the day, along with a pastry. Not much else to do in Lago.Read more

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler
    Ponte de Oliveira

    Lago to O Logoso

    September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    More farming lessons: they put the corn harvest in pits, drive over it to flatten it, then put plastic over. Good cattle feed. Corn seems to be the primary crop in this area. Corn ➡️ cows ➡️ manure ➡️ corn. The circle of life. I did see sheep as well. And one heron, can you find it? The cemeteries here are beautiful.Read more

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler
    Ups and downs. I was just on that trail!2Big hiking shoesYou know you are high up when you hear the windmill

    O Logoso to Dumbria

    September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I stopped for lunch, the bocadillo con bacon y queso was great! I saw Patrick and Roseanne from Idaho once more, but they will be heading to Fisterre at the junction. A bit further on was the junction to go left to Fisterre or right to Muxia. I am going to Muxia first, so I headed right. The rest of the trail was lovely. Mostly downhill, through some more eucalyptus, birds keeping me company. I am staying at the Xunta Albergue in Dumbria. It is quite nice, and there are more than just Nancy and me. Some who came from Muxia today; some, like me, heading there tomorrow.Read more

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler
    Bunk bed philosophy

    Camino Fisterre Day 4

    September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I met two Canadians yesterday- Dennis and Carl, travelling with Pirash from Hungary. We had beer 🍺 together. Nancy and I made a pasta dinner in the albergue kitchen. Nice little town but not much for restaurants. The Xunta albergue is quite nice, very modern. More pilgrims than yesterday but not quite full. Today I will see the ocean!Read more

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler
    Ivy growing on eucalyptus

    Dumbria to Senande

    September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    This morning there was some booming noises and hounds baying. At coffee break I asked for a tortilla español. I might be getting a lot.

    Yes, I did.

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler

    Senande to os Muiños

    September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Armed with muchos leftovers, I continued my walk. I saw some cute garden gnomes, a farmer called me over to give me apples, a cat called me over to use me as a rubbing post. I got my first glimpse of the ocean! Then I found a bar and ordered a Coca Cola.Read more

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler
    Overview of Muxia, I was staying at Arribada.See the monastery in the background? I walked on the far side of it.

    Os Muiños to Muxia

    September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    I got a first glimpse of Muxia, but not there yet. Once I checked in and cleaned up, I headed over to the special holy area. I climbed a hill for a good view of the town - almost easy without the backpack. There’s a zero Camino marker here as well. It appears there are two ends of the earth. Or at least of the Camino.Read more

  • Arlene LDos CaminoTraveler

    Muxia

    September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    What makes the area special and holy, you ask? Well, when St James was working to promote Christianity in the Iberian peninsula, he wasn’t doing very well, and was getting discouraged. The Virgin Mary appeared to him in Muxia, arriving on a stone boat, the stones you can see formed that boat. Which encouraged him to continue. The church is in the same place, a tribute to Mary. Any experts reading this may correct me, but that is how I understand the legend.Read more

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