Samana Cay

We arrived after sunup at the west anchorage and dropped the hook to catch up on our sleep and to download maps for this area. I had not realized that when I purchased maps for the Bahamas, Navionics most inconveniently left out Samana Cay, Acklins, and Turks and Caicos. Then they compounded their error by insisting upon mailing out a memory card, quite impossible for us to receive. So we purchased C-Maps instead, and downloaded the maps into our chart plotter.

This is quite important as the next step is to navigate shallow waters through a gap in the reef, then thread our way amongst coral heads to the more protected anchoring spot next to Propeller Cay. Yes, it’s mainly a visual routing exercise, looking for dark ‘bombes’, but the initial routing is done from the maps so you keep out of big trouble.

We got started at about 11am which gives us good light for VPR and got in without mishap, anchoring in a sand bottom with 11-15ft of clear water. A little later we all snorkeled the N shore of Propeller Cay, which had some great coral structures, but few large fish. I did see a 4ft sandbar shark and a large ray, resting in the sand. And I did shoot a small fish (silvery, pale flesh, not sure the type) for dinner.

Over the next few days, we tried a variety of spots for fishing and lobstering. In some, we found monster-large spiny lobsters that we got 1lb 10oz tails from! We started having regular lobster dinners - with cream sauce, scampi, garlic-skillet lobster, and more. Our buddy boat Now and Zen are pros at lobstering. They lent me a better tip for my spear, and taught us how to prepare the catch, and most of all, how to find and spear the bugs in the coral. Thank you Ralph & Leslie!

Ralph & Leslie had befriended Gregory, a part-year resident of Samana from Acklins Island, 22 miles south. He and several others live for 6 months on Samana, subsistence fishing while they harvest cascarilla bark that can be sold and used for flavoring things like Compari. To do this, they cut down the small canes, soak them in water holes on Samana for 4-5 days, then beat the bark off with a club, then dry the bark and bag it. While they do this, they can eat fish, lobster, coconuts, bananas, and any food they can barter for from cruisers or purchase from occasional acquaintance visitors from Acklins They don’t have a boat!

While a northerly kept most of us on the boats, I asked Gregory to guide me to Sampson Cave. It is about 2.3 miles from the beach through brush and iron-rock with marginal or even non-existent paths they optimistically call ‘roads’. As we hiked past one water hole, we came upon Grace debarking cascarilla canes. There were actually two caves, both large enough to enter. The larger cave had water deep enough to swim in (brackish) and some massive stalagmites reaching the floor. On the way back, Gregory showed me one of their banana plantings. It is only done in large holes in the iron rock that is everywhere, which will catch and hold both good soil and water. As we hiked, he would also stop and tell me about various plant uses - for tea (actually, all of them for tea), for hangover cures, for ‘strength’, for coughs. One thing about boat life - you lose all your hiking stamina! I was tired when I got back. Gregory climbed a coconut tree and retrieved half a dozen green nuts. One of which I was given on the spot, with a hole for drinking the juice and then split open to eat the jelly - very nice! We all (Grace, Sharon, Jah Moose and Gregory) enjoyed them together.

Back on Ashling I decided to prepare a tea from Crab Leaf, one of the spicier plant’s leaves. I was quite surprised that it was delicious, and only needed a half spoon of sugar. I was expecting exceptional bitterness.

We shared sundowners with Jah Moose and Gregory and Ralph & Leslie on the beach as we told stories about island life, the Haitian tragedy, governance and with a little poetry thrown in.

Later on, the trade winds died down and the waves subsided enough for us to go around Propeller Cay to the S side and check out the cave and the snorkeling. The coral structure was amazing, with foot-thick branches. Unfortunately, all but one piece was dead. That didn't stop the fish life, though. There were many 18 inch parrotfish, some groupers, triggerfish, and swarms of 20-30 blue tangs. A few rays and barracuda were around as well. One standout was a 4 foot fish, hiding in a cave with his huge mouth wide open. Dark green with no markings, and yellow tios of his fins, we couldn't identify it.

The whole time we spent at Samana only two other boats anchored around. Today we have left for Mayaguana, 60 miles to the southeast.Read more