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Sailing Bahamas 2024

February - June 2024
We plan to sail the Bahamas and Turks and Caicos until mid' June! Fun ahead 😁 Read more
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  • Sailing Bahamas 2024

    Preparations...

    January 1 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    There is so much preparation for sailing overseas for months at a time! We began last fall, leaving Ashling on the hard at Cape Charles, VA while we went land touring out west. The boat yard's work order was to strip the old bottom paint and start over with epoxy barrier coats, followed by antifouling coats.

    In late November we returned and splashed Ashling in anticipation of a sail south to Florida, only to immediately have a delay for family reasons.

    We finally left the Chesapeake Bay on Jan 2nd, heading out the bay to Beaufort NC. Very few other boats were out, and the wind rose to 37kn with 2-5 ft waves before gradually subsiding. We arrived after dark and anchored in Town Creek.

    After weather delays we resumed travel south on the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) in 30 kn winds. We spent nights in Carolina Beach and Myrtle Beach and then made an emergency stop in Georgetown SC to fix a broken steering part. We limped in with a hose clamp holding things together! After the usual waiting for shipping, and tours of the local museums, we left on Jan 20th to Charleston via the ICW

    We only spent one night (actually, part of one night) and left at 3am in order to arrive in Savannah during daylight. We proceeded down the Ashley River in about 25kn. But as soon as we cleared the Battery and joined the Cooper River, I felt the wind and waves pick up. I looked at the instruments and read wind of 45kn! I wasn't about to tackle an entrance, even one as large as Charleston's in the dark with that kind of wind. It was also 28 degrees out. I started preparing to turn back, and checked the wind again - it was 55kn! We docked as quickly as possible and were back in bed by 5am.

    Our second try was at 7:30 am, with winds down to 15kn, and temp down to 23F. We got outside to the ocean and winds did pick up again, as high as 42kn. We went up the Savannah River and then took the UCW cuts to reach Thunderbolt GA, where we docked.

    Now we could complete our preparations with home support, including a car. The car eventually became another delay, though, when it developed ignition shorts.

    So we spent January getting from Virginia to Savannah! That month sure went by quickly.    Read more

  • Sailing Bahamas 2024
    Day 2–4

    Immigration at West End

    February 27 on the Bahamas ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    We arrived after a 56 mile trip across the Gulf Stream with currents calculated at up to 4.7 knots that were sweeping us northward as we struggled east. It was an easy passage, although the continuous winter fronts left us with few sailing opportunities as we waited to go in Lake Worth (North Palm Beach). We took this one even though it was 100% motoring with winds on the nose, since the winds and waves were low.

    The customs and immigration process known as "checking in" is next. We hoisted our yellow quarantine flag and dinked into the marina. The process is considerably faster now, with online paperwork and payment. We still must complete immigration cards for each person, and a ship manifest.

    After that, we simply needed another weather opportunity to go to the Berry's, a group of cays further SE. While waiting, John tried the local snorkeling and Alexis got some work done.    Read more

  • Sailing Bahamas 2024
    Day 4–8

    Bullock Harbor, The Berrys

    February 29 on the Bahamas ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    We left West End at 11pm, starting the trip in the dark so we could use daylight to navigate the shallows as we arrived. The arrival had the water depth change from >2000 feet to 10 feet in the space of just a few miles. After getting in the shallows of an unknown harbor, your last 2-3 miles is at a snail’s pace as you watch for too-skinny water.

    We toured the inner harbor, and found no good places to anchor (just too small) and rejoined the cruisers congregating near the government dock. Edit: later we found that in the last westerly blow there were 22 cruisers in the harbor. So much for not enough room. I guess I'll be looking for land inontama soon.

    Due to the E-SE winds, we stayed on the west side of Great Harbor Cay. There was good protection from wind and waves, so we slept well after our overnight passage.

    We met a delightful couple from Canada on sv Carreauna Rodney & Yolanda) and shared a dinner and tools with them as we waited for better weather before moving on.

    In the meantime, we tried over to a beautiful beach on the E shore and walked in seclusion. We found two sea beans!

    We also explored the ruins of what must have been a premium hotel.    Read more

  • Sailing Bahamas 2024
    Day 9

    Staniel Cay

    March 5 on the Bahamas ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    We traveled overnight from Great Harbor Cay on a pretty calm weather window. However, we were traveling SE into the prevailing SE trades here, so wind and waves were on the nose most of the time.

    When we arrived, we stopped to get fuel and found ourselves in the queue of 4 boats plus one at the dock. About an hour and a half later, we were at the dock. During that time, we had to keep on station as vessels maneuvered through the narrow channels, in and out of anchorages, the fuel dock, the moorings, and slips.

    Unfortunately, as we left the dock, our newly repaired steering link failed again. This new part was thinner than the original and I had my doubts, now confirmed. I'm switching to a beefy stainless part. I have to get these parts imported via air freight, so we'll have to stick close to Staniel for a bit.    Read more

  • Sailing Bahamas 2024
    Day 10–17

    Black Point

    March 6 on the Bahamas ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    We made the extremely short hop south from Staniel Cay to Black Point to see our old dock mates Joni & Norbert on sv It's Time. There are about 45 boats here, and every morning Joni is hosting a cruiser's net on VHF radio. Cool! So every morning we start with coffee and the (very) local news. Black Point is gearing up for a SCCA -sponsored, 3rd annual cruiser gathering & festival, with bands from Andros, fire dancers from Nassau, raffles, games, Island boat races, and a visit by a sailing training vessel that feeds into the USCG.

    Our first day here, we went snorkeling with Joni and Norbert (sv It's Time) and Pauline (sv Elektra) at Gaulin Cay's north cut. We saw some nice aquarium fish (blue parrotfish, lionfish, etc), a large spiny lobster, and the resident barracuda. Gaulin Cay is also home to protected punk iguanas that have pink towels and upper forearms. There were several dozen, quite habituated to people, having been fed many times.

    Pauline turned out to be a Brazilian musician, singing and playing guitar for gig money. She also was a mermaid, having a monofin for diving!

    That evening, we went to Lorraine's High Tides bar to socialize and see Paulina play. We met lots of cruisers, including Cheyne (of Cruisersforum.com), Jim Norris, a PHRF boat racing class measurements expert. Also, Susan & Jeff on a. Happy Now. Later we skipped over to the Black Point Yacht Club, another bar/restaurant next to Lorraine's where we had a game night and played dominoes.

    The next day we went to Pappy Black's Emerald Sunset View bar/restaurant and had wonderful views of the sunset and the bay. We me Joni & Nobert's long-time buddy boat, sv Fizzgig (Ryan & Caroline). I think this was the day the wind clocked from SW to W, then N and finally E. This made for a very rolly night.

    The following day, Alexis and I trailed the kayaks up to Turtle Creek. That was a bit of leaning, as we swamped one kayak during the trip. But eventually we were able to go through the shallows and enjoy the mangroves. No turtles! Then we we back to our snorkeling spot and got a good look at fish and iguanas, as already described.

    For dinner we went to Lorraine's for pizza (disappointing crust) and caught up with a Ubiquitous (Annie and Phillip) whom we saw a year ago in Ft Lauderdale, and their friends Rick and Terry (sv Rogue Angel).

    The next morning, Pauline, Rodrigo, Rick & Terry, Annie & Phillip, and Allen & Norma all tried to go snorkeling but the current just after high tide was ripping at 4 knots. We gave up and went to Long Beach but didn't see very much wildlife due to the waves. We did get a stern warning from a Bahamian against spear fishing in the area, which is the law.

    The captain of sv Gaia, a John Shuttleworth-designed cat owned by Vicente & Carolina had offered to teach wing-foiling. I jumped on the opportunity and got sore knees from repeatedly climbing back onto the board! Eventually I achieved an upright on-the-knees stance with the wing, but didn't have the time to achieve full standup foiling. Annie & Phillip also taught me kite handling with a trainer kite.

    I really enjoyed giging at Emerald Sunset View with Electric Mermaid, aka Pauline, and Allen (harmonicas), and Rodrigo (pandura). We did one rehearsal on Ashling, then went for the public performance, lol.    Read more

  • Sailing Bahamas 2024
    Day 22–28

    Stocking & Exuma Islands

    March 18 on the Bahamas ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    We have not been in one place long while in the area! We initially anchored at the Fish Fry Shacks N of Georgetown, to get protection of Goat Cay from a N blow. That certainly worked and we had a quiet evening by ourselves. But we we woken shortly after 7am by a hail. When I went out, there was a (very) working boat with two Bahamian men from a cargo ship that was now anchored nearby. They explained that they were delivering fuel and that our boat must be more than 500 feet from them “just in case”. So we upped anchor and relocated to the cove immediately S of Goat Cay.

    The next day I visited Exuma Market in Georgetown (one of the best markets in Bahamas) and ran into Ralph & Leslie of sv Now and Zen. We joked that we almost didn’t recognize them, because Ralph wasn’t holding up a huge lobster, a signature FB photo for them. They were up to Georgetown from the Ragged Islands to extend their tourist visa past 90 days (they don’t always award you what you really want to use). We had met them in 2021 in Acklins and enjoyed their company and stories of running a charter business in Jacksonville. We had them over for dinner and a game of Golf.

    As the wind was expected to shift to the E, we followed NandZ over to Honeymoon Beach on the W shore of Stocking Island the following morning. We snagged a spot and that evening had a delicious lobster taco dinner on NandZ with Ralph, Leslie, and Ed and Cathy from sv What If, and Chris and Gosia from sv Solaris.    Read more

  • Sailing Bahamas 2024
    1
    Day 25–29

    Litterbox, Red Shanks, Great Exuma

    March 21 on the Bahamas ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Given that there is a major blow heading our way (tropical storm force winds and 20 foot seas in the Atlantic), we took Ralph’s advice and headed on a high tide at 7am into the Litterbox, an anchorage with a very shallow approach just N of Crab Cay. There were only five other vessels there, so we both got good spots. Over the next two days other boats have filtered in, with a rush in the evening before the high winds. Our spare halyards are wrapped about the furled jibs, flags are removed, dinghy is stowed, etc. Now we have dinner and wait to see if we get 30 knots or 60 knots.

    The front arrived with little wind, but massive rain. When that passed around 11pm, we could see a huge lightning display nearby to our southeast. While we stayed aboard during this, 4 other boats had decided to go ashore to the nearby Rusty Anchor and have drinks (they were full for dinner). They said it was an excellent choice - “What storm?”

    Well, all of us in the Litterbox survived very well, thanks! Now and Zen’s anchor dragged at 2:30am after the wind shifted and rose sharply. I was on watch just in case we had a problem, but we were solidly anchored. But the next morning we discovered via the VHF cruiser net that 5, then 7 and then finally as many as 11 boats were either struck by lightning or had suffered nearby lightning damage. We got very lucky,

    With the storm passed, we had a rare chance to move SE under sail, so Ashling and Now and Zen decided to move together,    Read more

  • Sailing Bahamas 2024
    Day 30–37

    Samana Cay

    March 26, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    We arrived after sunup at the west anchorage and dropped the hook to catch up on our sleep and to download maps for this area. I had not realized that when I purchased maps for the Bahamas, Navionics most inconveniently left out Samana Cay, Acklins, and Turks and Caicos. Then they compounded their error by insisting upon mailing out a memory card, quite impossible for us to receive. So we purchased C-Maps instead, and downloaded the maps into our chart plotter.

    This is quite important as the next step is to navigate shallow waters through a gap in the reef, then thread our way amongst coral heads to the more protected anchoring spot next to Propeller Cay. Yes, it’s mainly a visual routing exercise, looking for dark ‘bombes’, but the initial routing is done from the maps so you keep out of big trouble.

    We got started at about 11am which gives us good light for VPR and got in without mishap, anchoring in a sand bottom with 11-15ft of clear water. A little later we all snorkeled the N shore of Propeller Cay, which had some great coral structures, but few large fish. I did see a 4ft sandbar shark and a large ray, resting in the sand. And I did shoot a small fish (silvery, pale flesh, not sure the type) for dinner.

    Over the next few days, we tried a variety of spots for fishing and lobstering. In some, we found monster-large spiny lobsters that we got 1lb 10oz tails from! We started having regular lobster dinners - with cream sauce, scampi, garlic-skillet lobster, and more. Our buddy boat Now and Zen are pros at lobstering. They lent me a better tip for my spear, and taught us how to prepare the catch, and most of all, how to find and spear the bugs in the coral. Thank you Ralph & Leslie!

    Ralph & Leslie had befriended Gregory, a part-year resident of Samana from Acklins Island, 22 miles south. He and several others live for 6 months on Samana, subsistence fishing while they harvest cascarilla bark that can be sold and used for flavoring things like Compari. To do this, they cut down the small canes, soak them in water holes on Samana for 4-5 days, then beat the bark off with a club, then dry the bark and bag it. While they do this, they can eat fish, lobster, coconuts, bananas, and any food they can barter for from cruisers or purchase from occasional acquaintance visitors from Acklins They don’t have a boat!

    While a northerly kept most of us on the boats, I asked Gregory to guide me to Sampson Cave. It is about 2.3 miles from the beach through brush and iron-rock with marginal or even non-existent paths they optimistically call ‘roads’. As we hiked past one water hole, we came upon Grace debarking cascarilla canes. There were actually two caves, both large enough to enter. The larger cave had water deep enough to swim in (brackish) and some massive stalagmites reaching the floor. On the way back, Gregory showed me one of their banana plantings. It is only done in large holes in the iron rock that is everywhere, which will catch and hold both good soil and water. As we hiked, he would also stop and tell me about various plant uses - for tea (actually, all of them for tea), for hangover cures, for ‘strength’, for coughs. One thing about boat life - you lose all your hiking stamina! I was tired when I got back. Gregory climbed a coconut tree and retrieved half a dozen green nuts. One of which I was given on the spot, with a hole for drinking the juice and then split open to eat the jelly - very nice! We all (Grace, Sharon, Jah Moose and Gregory) enjoyed them together.

    Back on Ashling I decided to prepare a tea from Crab Leaf, one of the spicier plant’s leaves. I was quite surprised that it was delicious, and only needed a half spoon of sugar. I was expecting exceptional bitterness.

    We shared sundowners with Jah Moose and Gregory and Ralph & Leslie on the beach as we told stories about island life, the Haitian tragedy, governance and with a little poetry thrown in.

    Later on, the trade winds died down and the waves subsided enough for us to go around Propeller Cay to the S side and check out the cave and the snorkeling. The coral structure was amazing, with foot-thick branches. Unfortunately, all but one piece was dead. That didn't stop the fish life, though. There were many 18 inch parrotfish, some groupers, triggerfish, and swarms of 20-30 blue tangs. A few rays and barracuda were around as well. One standout was a 4 foot fish, hiding in a cave with his huge mouth wide open. Dark green with no markings, and yellow tios of his fins, we couldn't identify it.

    The whole time we spent at Samana only two other boats anchored around. Today we have left for Mayaguana, 60 miles to the southeast.    Read more

  • Sailing Bahamas 2024
    Day 41

    Mayaguana

    April 6 on the Bahamas ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    We arrived at Abraham Bay after an easy motor-sail from Samana Cay, taking about 9 hours. We arrived to find only two other boats at anchor (Yay, not like Georgetown!). The path in was easy-peasy, just follow the magenta line on Explorer Charts and anchor as near to shore as your draft allows (still a good distance, as the bottom slope is so gradual). We turned in and awaited a new day!

    Now and Zen traveled with us, and with their superior knowledge they took a position about a 1/4 mile further towards shore and the dinghy dock. The next morning, we headed into shore with Ralph & Leslie and connected with their friend Vanessa. Her husband Anton was just back in from a 3 day fishing trip at Booby Cay and was cleaning up 750 pounds of fish and conch that he'd free-dived to gather. Having this local contact and view of the island life is one of the benefits of buddy boating with someone that's been around before!

    We got the use of Vanessa's car the headed for the airport to see the collection of wrecked planes (this is not quite the Air and Space Museum, but it'll do). We did get to climb in and out of an old DC3 and look at some other Cessnas and what-not. The DC3 had bullet holes throught the fuselage, which Ralph surmised were to get into a locked panel. I refuted that with the much better theory of an aerial dogfight.

    Unfortunately, as we drove around we got bitten by a pothole and as we left the airport, it was clear that we'd not make it home. The rim was bent in several directions. So we waited an hour for a local fellow's son to show up with an air tank. That failed because the sidewall was breached in 3 different places, so we ended up gathering the tire, the compressor, 6 people and two carts of groceries into a tiny car and went back to Abraham Bay to fix the tire. Fortunately, they had a replacement which they got installed on the rim using hand tools. Of course, the rim was straightened out first with a large sledgehammer. Lunch was cracked conch (deep-fried conch), with rice, macaroni & cheese, and potato salad at the Thunderbolt bar. We collected laundry we'd brought for washing and headed back to the boats.

    The next morning, we headed up to Betsy Bay, to the government dock because the mailboat Rosalinda was in port and we wanted to get fresh food. That turned into a chase, as the lady with the food to sell was already back at Pirate Well, a town on the north side. We connected at her tiny one-room store and purchased what we could - but no greens as they had gone bad on the mailboat. Mayaguana is the end of the run, and about 4-5 days from Nassau so spoiled food is common here. But oranges and cantalopes, yes! Plus a refill of ginger beer.

    Mayaguana is the furthest SE "family island" of the Bahamas. Its about 25 miles x 7 miles, has three principal settlements that comprise about 270 people, an airstrip, a 16 room boutique hotel used mainly by bone fishermen, its own diesel power plant, 2 or 3 cell towers, a few bar/restaurants and a half-dozen tiny stores. The island is surrounded on 3 sides by reef, which means there are some very nice beaches on the N and S shores and there is fairly good protection from waves. Abraham Bay is about 5 miles long on one part of the S shore, with a sand bottom that gives good anchoring so we feel safe leaving our boats.

    We took another day sightseeing the local attractions, starting with the Pirates Well (it does have fresh water), the view of the NW bay at Pirates Well, , then the NW point where the navigation warning light is now on the ground and a large birds nest is on the pole. This took a two mile drive on a sand track, so it was definitely off the beaten path.

    We stopped at Baycaner Beach Resort, run by Mr. Shorty Brown for visiting fisherman (it looked very nice), but Shorty was out feeding his goats. Since Ralph & Leslie knew where that was, we headed off to the farm and the gas station. The farm turned out to be operational on a small scale, with pigs and chickens (no goats), and a garden with papaya, banana, peppers, etc. So we headed to Cynthia's Gas Station which wasn't manned. After some calling, Shorty was reached and as it's his station, he showed up to fill out car and dinghy tanks ($9/gal). He said that the pig farm was making a little money, and when they have a pig to slaughter they send out notices which gain attention island-wide and as far as Nassau.

    The next attraction we saw was the "new" weather radar installation overlooking Abraham Bay. This was built atop an existing 3 story concrete building the US Navy erected in the 1950s for missile-tracking. The entire navy base, including a 10,000 foot runway was decommissioned in 1969 or so, and the island's population dropped from around 1700 to the current figure. Anyway, the building now has a new purpose. The weather radar was installed with a backup generator, tested, and then shut down, ca. 2021. It still lacks a power hookup, although trenches have been dug and underground connection vaults are in place. Apparently the push for new radar happened after Dorian, Irma and Joaquin (2015) struck. However, it looks like progress has stalled. Link: http://www.tribune242.com/news/2021/mar/08/new-…, here: http://www.tribune242.com/news/2019/aug/28/tota… and here: http://www.tribune242.com/news/2015/nov/30/plan…

    We also checked out the plaque memorializing the recovery of the Thor nosecone in 1959 from Mayaguana's beach, which provided the first color photos of earth.

    The four of us had a wonderful dinner cooked for us by Smokey & Vanessa, with grouper, pork chops, lobster (courtesy Now and Zen), and two types of slaw. It was delicious. After lunch we watched Neil repair a worn-down skiff and planned a few repairs for Smokeys Hobie 14 that had come ashore on Booby Cay one day.

    Due to our land excursions, and then rougher weather, we did very little snorkeling. On the one day we went out, it began as a search for flamingoes, but that was a bust, so we went to the reef and snorkeled just inside it. While the fish were small, I did find one large conch. We also found that if we were willing to have longer dinghy rides to the dock, anchoring near the reef would be actually less rolly than where we were!

    On Friday, our last night at Mayaguana, the locals had their fish fry, with fish, of course, conch fritters, pork chops, fried chicken and sides. Smokey made a small business selling beers and a game of dominoes provided background noises as tiles were slammed down. We watched 4 new catamarans arrive through the E cut and anchor near us, creating "cat row".

    Tomorrow, we'll head to Turks and Caicos.    Read more

  • Sailing Bahamas 2024
    Day 49–53

    Turks and Caicos - Leeward Channel

    April 14 in Turks and Caicos Islands ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    It is easiest when arriving in the TCI (Turks and Caicos islands) to clear in with customs and immigration at a marina. Being completely new to this area, we decided to begin our visit by getting a slip at Blue Haven Marina. The officials come to the marina within 24 hours and process the current batch of arrivals. We got a cruising permit for 35 days.

    We were given a local contact by sv Now and Zen, Beryl Nelson who immigrated to TCI about 50 years ago. He was very kind to us, acting as a tour guide and a driver for us on Provo. We were able to see Grace Bay (the Las Ramblas of Provo), buy groceries at a full-sized store, do our laundry, and see the various marinas on both the north south sides. We also had some delightful meals at Mango Tree, Bay Bistro, Yoshi's Sushi, Salt Bar & Grill.

    We made friends with Jonathon, Paul, and Erin on mv Second Wind, out of St Croix. We spent a little time scoping out the local anchorages and beaches by dinghy. As it turned out, we never used them, but good to know about.    Read more

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