Cambodia: Sihanoukville

After a lovely breakfast, we got a Grab to the port (£9) then got back on the Superdong ferry to Ha Tien (1h20). I'd booked the ferry tickets through 12go, which we'd used before but hadn't received the confirmation email so had to chase this up last night which was a bit of a worry. It came through by the morning however we weren't sure how to convert to a boarding pass. This was done by the ferry staff but took a bit longer than other people who just walked straight on so clearly not the best way to book. Also ended up downstairs which are the cheaper seats however it wasn't full so could spread out.
Tried to get a Grab to the border but wouldn't work so got a taxi for 150k. Anna had failed to pick up any coffee beans so she was on a last minute hunt and the driver took her to a random house where they roasted it in their back garden. Happy Flump!
We got our exit stamps easily then filled in the Cambodian forms and paid $40 each - price was written on a scrap of paper so think it changes depending on their moods. Supposed to be 30 but what can you do... We handed over our passports and after 15 mins got our visas. We then had to wait in the passport stamp line which was super slow. Then suddenly they did everything at double speed and rushed the rest of us through quickly - time for lunch I think. They took photos and thumb prints. However no $1 health check scam that we've read about. Overall it took about an hour to get through. Was super hot so very sweaty by the end.
We didn't fancy a cramped Cambodian minibus (no more limousines here!) for 5 hours so had booked a private car via mangotaxis (£70) and so glad we did. The driver Mr Sophy was absolutely lovely and took a few detours via Kep and Kampot to show us the sights. He pointed out all sorts of things and taught us some basic Cambodian. The roads were mostly good apart from a half hour stretch which was dirt red track full of dogs, chickens and cows and very bumpy but that didn't slow anybody down! After that we had a quick loo stop and perked up Anna and our driver with some iced coffee. It took about 3.5 hours to get there, through amazing scenery. It felt like a tour rather than just a transfer. It drizzled most of the way but there was one bad downpour with a thunder storm. Apparently dry season started 2 weeks ago! Just as we got to our hotel it absolutely chucked it down. He tried to drive up the pavement for us but was told off so Anna made a run for it in her rain jacket and he got an umbrella for me. Absolute gent.
We checked into the Aristocrat Residence Hotel (£50) which was nicer than expected. Sihanoukville was apparently a small coastal city but has been taken over by huge Chinese skyscraper hotels for casinos and as a result few tourists stay. We knew this in advance but it worked for our itinerary and it has an odd vibe but we enjoyed our brief stay.
The rain stopped so we headed for a sunset walk along the beach. The beach is nicer than we expected and a nice path along the beach. However first 20+ restaurants were Chinese and had tons of miserable looking young staff sat outside them. We carried on and found a Cambodian restaurant Khin's Shack which was great. Anna had the local dish - Fish Amok, a fish curry and I had a veggie version. Huge portions and both really delicious! I remember Cambodian food being quite bland from my previous visit so this was a welcome surprise. $15. All prices quoted in dollars, even at the coffee shop we stopped at earlier, though have change in Riel.Read more