Another adventure begins
November 15, 2025 in England ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C
After what seems like a year of planning and drooling over various destinations and exotic hotels, the day has finally arrived to begin our Asian adventure!
Our bags have been packed for weeks, well mine anyway. Anna has downsized to 50l and I have gone to the dark (lazy) side with a 44l wheeled backpack. Anna's weighs approximately twice as much as mine due to bringing half a pharmacy and a gallon of bug spray.
After a morning at the gym for me and a lot of faffing for Anna we were ready to go - on time for once 😀.
We took the Barry express to Cardiff, had an M&S dinner pitstop, quick dash to a money exchange (guess who forgot to order the Vietnamese dong?!) and weaved in and out of hundreds of rugby fans before jumping on a Flix bus and were whisked to Heathrow.
After a bit of confusion and one closed tube line, we made it to Terminal 4 and our overpriced Holiday Inn room (£109) with a window that looks over the reception and bars. Reminds me a little of Disney hotel with the monorail that goes through the middle.
The adventure begins....Read more
Fly Vietnam Airlines
November 17, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Took off 11am and landed 11 hours later at 5am local time.
We'd splurged for premium economy and definitely worth it. Super comfy, spacious seats but not much sleep despite not sleeping well the previous night.
Lunch was good - loads of fruit and veg, breakfast was like gruel and didn't help it was labelled 'conge vom' - tasteless watery rice pudding? with 3 slices of mushroom. Even Anna couldn't eat it all.
Huge queues at security - we had considered getting a fast pass and regretted not getting it - queues didn't move for ages, don't think it was even open for half an hour and then our queue was super slow with the guy clearly not loving his job.
Picked up by a driver from our hotel who weaved in and out of the heavy traffic as fast as he could. Overtaking down narrow lanes seemed to be his forte and choosing a side of the road to drive on was optional.
Checked into San Premium hotel, super friendly staff. Rooms not quite as shiny as the photos but fine. We'd booked the previous night as well so could check straight in and have breakfast.Read more
Hanoi
November 17, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
35k = £1
Despite being super sleepy we headed straight to train street which was just around the corner from our hotel. I had some amazing ginger tea as we watched 2 trains fly past us.
After a shower and much needed sleep of 3.5 hours we headed out for a quick explore and grabbed me a SIM for £6 from a Viettel shop as my phone wouldn't take the esim Anna had.
We wandered to the lake and temple (50k) which were very serene in the midst of the city, and then around the old quarter streets. There doesn't seem to be a main centre, just tons of chaotic, jam packed streets. There are plants everywhere and mini red flags and lanterns strewn everywhere. It's a chaotic place but less intimidating than I remember HCMI. Pavements are usually clogged with parked motorbikes so you have to walk along the road dodgy mopeds, cars and rickshaws. Strangely it feels quite safe.
Anna bought some backpacker trousers and top for about £8. We didn't even bother to haggle at that price as £1-2 is worth far more to them.
Anna was flagging so we stopped for coconut coffee (lump of coconut ice cream added, yum!) and kombucha for me. Then we wanted to try Banh mi, a local type of sandwich so I found one on our way back - Banh Mi 25 - which turned out to be a hot backpacker spot and had quite a queue. However we only waited a couple of minutes and they were very delicious. Pork for Anna and tofu / mushroom for me. £3 for both.
Next we headed back to train street to see it all lit up. We shared some spring rolls, I had a coconut and Anna had Hanoi beer before realising there was a chocolate train stout so had to have that too. Train street was much busier in the evening and had a lovely vibe. We wandered back via an ATM and another train engine went by so we got to see 4 in total which was very lucky as they can be hit and miss timing wise apparently.
Back in our room the noisy neighbours started praying very loudly in American accents, which was odd as we had heard them speaking Vietnamese before. The chanting and hail Mary's carried on for ages and it sounded like a cult was gathered next door. After a while I had enough and got reception to knock on their door. Took ages for them to answer as they were asleep and it was on TV. Most odd, I'm not sure praying works if it's in another language and you sleep through it.
A fabulous first day to our adventure.Read more
Halong Bay
November 18, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 21 °C
Slept really badly. Woke up at 1 and couldn't get back to sleep. Then our neighbours got up at 4am and banged around for over an hour 🤬.
Breakfast pancakes and fruit for me, omelette for Anna. Got accosted by an American missionary who says 'we don't use that word' then preached at us for a while.
Got picked up by the Hermes limousine bus (giant comfy seats that recline) just after 8 and driven to Halong Bay with a stop at a large shop where Anna bought a couple of sewn pictures. I snoozed most of the way.
We boarded our Hermes cruise and had lunch straight away as the boat cruised through the bay. It was a bit drizzly but still looked spectacular.
They told me I was special vegetarian so I couldn't have the buffet but gave me soup, chips and a sandwich. I was pretty disappointed at the blandness / lack of veggies compared to the buffet. However half way through this they then came out with spring rolls, a delicious lemongrass salad and tofu curry! Mr Ben, our young waiter was hilarious, I asked him how to say delicious but apparently my pronunciation said water buffalo and had him stitches.
Fully stuffed, we checked into our Presidential suite - we treated ourselves to proper luxury for this and it doesn't disappoint - apart from the hot tub on our sundeck is lukewarm at best. £930 for 2 nights, 3 days including all food and activities.
Then we all piled onto a tender boat and we're driven to some caves. My expectations were low and I think every boat has the same itinerary (and there's tons of boats) so there was a long slow queue to start with standing in the rain. However once it got passed a point where everyone was taking viewpoint photos, it calmed down. There were 3 chambers of the cave and it was immense! It was called the amazing cave and it really was. Our tour guide kept pointing out rocks that looked like various animals, some a bit more imagination-needing than others.
Then we drove to another area where you could kayak or be rowed in a bamboo boat. We opted for kayaking and paddled through a cave and around the hidden bay the other side. Stunning and great fun despite it now pouring with rain and completely soaking our lower halves.
To warm up, we ran the spa bath in the bathroom and turned on the jets. Anna had some of the free bottle of wine they'd left in the room. We missed the spring roll making class and neither of us wanted happy hour so went back to chill and both fell asleep.
Dinner was a delicious 5 course affair accompanied by a Vietnamese viola player.Read more
Too cold for coconuts
November 19, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
Both slept well. Breakfast at 7. Muesli, yog, fruit, croissants; eggs for Anna. Accompanied by ominous titanic music.
Transferred to day boat - sunshine cruises - with 2 other couples, Scottish and Taiwanese along with other 2 nighters from diff boats.
Bit of drizzle to start with then dried up but much colder than yesterday.
Went to pearl farm then kayaked to a beach, had a wander round then kayaked back. Managed to stay fairly dry this time.
Lunch was copious amounts of food again as we went to Long Ha bay, including a coconut which was delicious but so cold. Then Anna and a few others swam to a beach and back. The water was warm but it was chilly once out. However boat had hot showers - had I known this in advance might have joined them. But maybe not as I was already feeling chilly!
Then we went a bit further and stopped at a smallish but very cool cave you had to climb through bits. We were dropped off at our boat and Anna dipped in the cold 'hot tub' before warming up in the spa bath.
We had cocktails and learnt to make spring rolls (not v difficult!) up on the top deck and then had dinner, so much food! They gave us each a mug which are lovely but not sure it will survive the journey home space wise or not being smashed to pieces wise!Read more
Ninh Binh
November 20, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Pronounced Ning Bing.
Quick breakfast at 7 then straight on tender to walk up nearby Titov mountain - great views and a refreshing coconut on way down.
Checked out of our stunning room and had a buffet brunch, pizza for me. We weren't hungry but figured may as well eat and skip lunch.
Left the boat at 10:30 and had an hour wait before transfer so wandered up and down the wharf.
Arranged transfer limousine bus (fancy seats) via 12go for about £10 each which picked us up and drove us to Ninh Binh, with the obligatory stop at some shop selling marble statues amongst other things - bit big for our suitcases!
Once in Ninh Binh we were dumped with a few others from the larger bus by the side of a road and put straight onto a minibus which took us all the way to our hotel - wasn't expecting door to door service.
Hang Lan Bungalows (£38 per night) is our next stop, a little oasis in a waterfront bungalow. Water is a little on the pongy side.
Anna was flagging so we fed her a coffee then walked in search of some dinner. Stopped at second place we found called D&D riverside, cute little place run by a family. Little girl of about 8 gave us menus and cutlery etc and was wiping down tables. Dad took the orders and mum cooked while the little boy just threw things. Had 2 bowls of pho, crispy tofu, 8 spring rolls, beer and large bottle of water for about £4. Very tasty! Wandered home in the dark lit up by our phones.Read more
Trang An boat ride
November 21, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
First lie in all holiday, which was lovely. Up at 8:30 which by Anna's standards is still crack of dawn.
Breakfast was 2 crepe-like banana pancakes which were a bit chewy and undercooked and a plate of fruit.
Anna's tummy bit funny so had a relaxing morning catching up on photos, blog etc.
Grab taxi to Trang An (£2) and I got a croissant and slice of banana bread (£2) for quick lunch as Anna not wanting to risk food. Then we got our boat tickets (£5 each) and went to the boarding area with zillions of boats and got on one with a German couple. A lovely lady rowed us for about 2.5 hours, 15k, super fit and faster than the majority of the boats. Anna tried out lots of her Vietnamese. Had 2 temple stops (lots of gold and buddhas) and several caves, the first was 1k long lit by many lights, absolutely amazing and had to duck down often. Whole trip was fab, absolutely stunning scenery. Slightly numb bum after from sitting on wooden seats.
Walked to Trang An Riverside restaurant, no pavement but road really wide so didn't feel unsafe. Both had lemongrass and chilli tofu with rice plus a coconut for £2 each. Very yummy and scenic by river.
Got a Grab back and stuck in Hand Mua sunset rush hour - absolute chaos! Took over half hour for 10 mins journey with driver getting increasingly irate, left the car twice, almost nudged a cyclist off the road and beeped an awful lot.
Anna had a nap and then we messaged the first Grab driver today whose wife ran a massage place. He picked us up and dropped us there but her staff hadn't turned up so we waited with our feet in bowls of hot water with an incense tea bag in them while the husband put together a new flashing sign. Anna helped him use his new chalk markers and ended up doing the whole sign and then a Christmas display on the window whilst I ate crackers and sipped ginger tea. They loved it and tried to give us dinner from their family's place but we weren't that hungry. We had hot stone massages (£8 each for an hour). They were a little too firm for me in places but the hot stones were nice and felt good afterwards. Had more ginger tea and she gave us some sachets to go, then got a Grab home who didn't have enough change so said we could have it for free but we insisted he keep the £2.Read more
Four Paws Bear Sanctuary
November 22, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Early-ish breakfast and Ami's (massage man) brother gave us a lift to the bear sanctuary for 400k (£8) which was slightly cheaper than a Grab. The driver was lovely and was trying to work on his English so we did a lot of Google translate
We joined a tour for 250k where we watched a video about bile farming and the work they do and then had a tour around the sanctuary. We watched a bear close up for ages. They had about 46 moon bears and 1 sun bear and they eat up to 5kg a day of fruit and veg and smoothies.
Anna was hungry so we had an early lunch, noodles for me, Banh mi for Anna and fairy tea - sugar, lime and blue pea, a vibrant purple colour. Anna had salt coffee - all v yummy. Then Anna bought half the gift shop!
We went back on the skywalk which is above the enclosures and watched them being fed at 1pm - they call them in before this (they recognise their names) and then the keepers can enter the enclosures and spread and hide the food. Another of Ami's friends drove us back and we had some chill time before walking to Hang Mua lookout (£100k) which is 15 mins around the corner. It's a 20 min walk up some steps to give an amazing view across the rivers and mountains. We made it up for sunset with a zillion other tourists. The sunset wasn't that amazing but it was beautiful none the less. I had a cinnamon bun I'd picked up on the way.
We looked for somewhere to eat on the walk back. Everywhere was deserted but we settled on Hoang Long Quan restaurant. They had chicken with lemongrass and chilli so Anna asked if we could have it with tofu instead. She didn't speak any English so we weren't sure what we would get but we had a delicious, humongous plate each of lovely tofu, however no rice. We were both happy though. Afterwards she bought us some big grapefruit / orange segments and sat down and started peeling them for us and playing charades conversation. So lovely and she showed Anna her trees where she grew the fruit. She only charged us 60k for each meal whereas the chicken one had been listed for 120k.
Back to our room for an early night listening to karaoke?/wailing from somewhere across the fields. It's the weekend so perhaps a wedding. There was a lady in a wedding dress up at Hang Mua.Read more
Hang Mua & Tam Coc
November 23, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌙 19 °C
We both switched to rolls with jam for breakfast as pancakes are not great and suspect the fruit might be upsetting our tummies slightly.
We headed back to Hang Mua and wandered round the lotus flower ponds then climbed to the top again. Much hotter today! At the top of one side was a dragon amongst precarious rocks which people were climbing, was a bit overcrowded and hard to get a footing so came back down. The other side was a temple and one girl had climbed onto the side of the temple whilst her friend took a zillion photos with just sheer rocks below her. We waited a while for them to finish and then Anna started loudly commenting they should hurry up and was met with some choice swear words. Instagrammers are lovely people!
We went to the caves which weren't very impressive and wqnder d around the other bits. It's a very chilled, tranquil place, done a bit like Disney with lots to see. We stopped for egg coffee and spring rolls for Anna and a cheese croissant and coke for me in an attempt to soothe my stomach. Seemed to work. On our way back we had a coconut and sugar cane juice (£1 for both). Yum! Vietnamese coconuts have not disappointed so far and are very cheap.
Then we wandered back and got some rattly old bikes (free from homestay) and headed to Tam Coc. Whereas An Trang doesn't seem to have a centre, just random restaurants along various roads with no pavements, Tam Coc was a definite tourist mecca and had some gorgeous restaurants along the lakeside, more touristy type restaurants etc.
We wandered around the lake, seeing the boat rides being rowed by the feet and then stopped for a delicious passion fruit 'snow' sorbet type drink and Anna had coconut coffee with a lakeside view. Prices were very reasonable towards the back of the lake and comparable to elsewhere in Ninh Binh.
Next we cycled to Bich Pagoda. We knew it was closed but fancied the ride and although we couldn't go in we could see the pretty entrance way across the lotus ponds which I think is the main attraction. After riding back through a bit of crazy rush hour which keeps you on your toes/pedals, we saw an exercise class for older ladies in the 'square'. They had some sticks but we didn't have time to wait and see what they did with them! We had some dinner by the lake. We were in a slight hurry and Anna was tired so settled for somewhere quick despite them having no tofu and no veggie spring rolls. We had fried noodles with veggies which were good but nothing special.
We cycled back in the dark, walked the bikes on the main strip then cycled once we got to the quiet roads through the rice fields. Anna had a head torch and we only had to stop a couple of times to let some cars pass.
We had booked an extra night in the homestay so we could have the room all day and shower etc. On check out he gave us a bit of a discount for not staying the night, which offset the 3% card fee they have to charge for credit cards everywhere here, plus some water for the journey. Such a lovely place.
Ami (who it turns out is a Captain in the army and has a gun) gave us a lift to the train station. We loaded up on some snacks and waited for the train which was 20 mins late. Don't think getting there 45 mins before departure is quite necessary! We were loaded quickly into our little cabin for the night which was quite nice and had some snacks and breakfast provided and our attendant bought us a drink. Not a cheap way to travel at £220 for a private cabin but 'an experience' per Anna. We shall see how much sleep we get...Read more
Hoi An
November 24, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 26 °C
Overnight train was much better than expected. Toilets were clean and had loo paper, cabin was comfy. Despite my watch saying only 12 mins sleep, I dozed on and off. The rocking of the train was quite soothing but every time it stopped, which was fairly often, it woke us up.
There was a roll, jam and banana for breakfast plus a bottle of water. We'd also bought some snacks and there was a guy who came through every now and again with a cart. Our attendant bought us some instant coffees so Anna was happy. Dozed off some more then Anna woke me up for the views. Between Hue and Da Nang the scenery was stunning, the Hai Van Pass - along the coast, through jungly vegetation, looks like you are right over the edge at times. Wow!
Grab to Sol An Bang beach resort (£9); £140 for 3 nights. Unlike previous places they don't charge the 3% credit card fee, or it's already included in Booking cost. The driver turned into the road and it was completely flooded for about 20m. He bravely drove through it and we made it out the other side. It's in An Bang which is on the beach 5k from Hoi An old town.
Grab to Hoi An old town. Wandered around. Tons of lovely shops. Very busy. Lots of touts, more pressure to buy etc. Beautiful place.
They have had several episodes of severe flooding. We were debating whether to come but is mostly business as usual. There is still some flooding and a lot of sand/mud on a few of the streets. We talked to several store owners and they are struggling, one said 'our country is broken with all the rain' 😭.
Started tipping down with rain so we went into Poison cafe - amazing tofu dish, one of best veggie meals ever. Anna had beef pho. Prices here are more expensive but places are also far more fancy. Approx 1.5 to 2x as much.
Bought souvenirs / Xmas pressies.
Stopped for another coffee for Anna - tons of fancy coffee places here.
Went on motorised lantern boat full of bright lights. Meant to be 20 mins for 200k, then charged us 50k extra for lanterns and was max 10 mins. Quite scammy but still fun. We're happy to pay and support as many people as possible. Not sure our driver had passed his test, we crashed into several boats.
Morning glory - cross between spring onions and green beans cooked in garlic. Absolutely delicious. Asked for veggie spring rolls but they gave us meat, were very apologetic. Veggie spring rolls were lovely too.
Another boat ride, this time on the row boats which was the allotted 20 mins and very tranquil. These were more organised with a ticket for 170k and then lanterns 50k each.
The lanterns generally wash up on riverside so presumably get cleaned away. However I don't like the environmental impact so didn't do a second one. The first felt forced upon us.
Hoi An is magical at night, lanterns and lights everywhere. However many more touristy bars and belting out music than I expected. It's a lovely vibe but noisier than I thought. 1-2 days here and you'd be warn out from the constant touting. They respect a firm no but there's a lot of them! Especially when arranging a Grab many try to get you to cancel it and go with them. However Grab is guaranteed and also linked to credit card so don't need any cash.
QR codes are ubiquitous here too so we've been using our Moretta app lots.
Anna bought giant green suitcase - she is no longer a backpacker! 700k.Read more
Hospital
November 25, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
No adventure is complete for us without trying out the local A&E!
Anna started being sick in the early hours. She vomited blood so I went to see if reception was open, which it wasn't. There was also a big metal fence in front of our block but we were able to push it out to get onto the road.
~4am: We got a Grab to Pacific Hospital Hoi An A&E, a private hospital about 10 mins away. The Grab driver was great and the nurse met us outside immediately. So much easier than Cardiff! She was seen quickly by a doctor who spoke English and they put her on a drip and did an ultrasound. They moved her to a room in the hospital, gave her breakfast which she didn't fancy so I ate the mini croissants. The nurses came on constantly checking on her drip and giving various medicines. Then 2 doctors and an 'international facilitator' came in who explained everything to us in English - v impressive.
I stayed a while then went back to our hotel for breakfast and a nap. Breakfast room was empty and you could order off a menu, I had American pancakes and fruit which was good.
I went for a walk, An Bang is pretty deserted due to low season and reason floods. Seems a bit of a ghost town with only the odd tourist. I got a croissant from a nearby bakery and then headed to the coconut village at Bay Mau. There were a few coconut basket rides going on but few boats and few tourists, it seemed pretty deserted - I think there are several places you can do it and this isn't the main one. Then I walked back the opposite way where there was more of a town (though not many more tourists) and you could see the potential for when the weather is better.
I loaded up on snacks for Anna and after a quick nap went back to the hospital for a few hours. Anna had perked up a bit and was keeping down fluids and some mashed potato they gave her, I ate half of it. They changed her room while I was there as a lady was coming in with a broken hip. Hopefully she will be out tomorrow.
Then headed home and just had some biscuits for dinner as my tummy is not 100% so a day of blandness will hopefully do it good.
Felt a bit of a sore throat in the evening...Read more
Coconut basket boat ride
November 26, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
Sore throat has developed into runny nose.
Had breakfast then wandered to the more 'town side' of An Bang and had an overpriced smoothie in The Deckhouse - lovely views. Sunny today and there were people sunbathing and walking up and down the beach.
Then got a Grab to the hospital and sprung Anna free. Cost approx 15 million dong, £450ish. Very impressed with the service.
Came back to the hotel for Anna to shower etc then headed to the Coconut Village and got a coconut basket boat ride for 300k, prob could have haggled down more but happy to pay that. It was beautiful and bonkers fun - watched them spinning (we didn't partake as Anna still queasy), watched a fisherman cast a big net, a load of men singing karaoke in their boats with giant speakers and just general madness. We both had a go at the paddling, Anna crashed into a few things. The paddlers seemed really happy and chatted to their fellow paddlers. Our lady pointed out her husband who was also a paddler.
Then had a coconut and wandered around a bit before coming back briefly then walking to the town part to show Anna. We had an early dinner at The Fisherman's Vegan Restaurant which was amazing. My dinner was tofu, spring rolls, falafel, cold noodles and a salad. Really good. Anna had chips and crispy tofu, her tofu was more silky and less cooked and neither of us fancied it. Got a gelato on the way home and had an early night as both knackered.Read more
Fly to the Mekong
November 27, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌬 24 °C
Feeling rough with stuffy head and sinuses.
Anna was able to join me for breakfast at last. She's still feeling poorly but managed to eat. I've meanwhile picked up a cold from somewhere and am snuffly and blocked head.
We got a free airport transfer to Da Nang included in the hotel as it's low season.
1pm: 1.5 hour flight to Can Tho on Vietjet (£67 for both). Hotel was a half hour Grab away.
Green Village Mekong is in the middle of nowhere, beautiful place set on a river with hammocks. We were greeted with an iced kumquat juice, like a mojito, absolutely delicious. We're staying here for 2 nights @ £88 including breakfast and dinner.
We went for a wander around, not much to see apart from residential properties, lots of bananas and greenery. All the kids said hello to us.
After a lie down in the hammocks it was time for our dinner which was a feast! The Vietnamese are definitely feeders. There was rice, tofu in tomato sauce for me, pork for Anna and a veggie soup that cooked on a gas stove on the table in front of us. Plus some giant fortune cookie type things for dessert. Absolutely delicious!Read more
Cai Rang floating market
November 28, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Still feeling rough.
Early start at 5:30am for a five hour tour with 2 other couples and a great guide Jonny. Along quiet canals, some overgrown with weeds for about an hour seeing no other tourist boats, then onto the main stretch where the floating market is and lots of tourists. Stopped for pho at one boat which was amazing and strangely didn't feel odd to have noodle soup for breakfast. I had a coconut and Anna had one of the best coffees ever! Then went to a different boat and climbed aboard for fruit. Also given a bag of banana chips which were so good.
Stopped at rice noodle factory and saw the traditional method of making them, then walked round a local market - selling all sorts, meat, fish, veg, flowers, rats! Anna bought 2 conical hats for 80k each versus 500k in the airport. Chaotic at times with lots of motorbikes weaving through. Stopped for some cake made over fire in the street and also given more fruit like we had after dinner in Ninh Binh, the grapefruit type. Then another hour home where found it hard not to drift off asleep. Totally would have if comfier seats.
After a lovely nap in the hammocks we had some lunch at the homestay and then dipped in the pool and laid in the sun - our first proper chill afternoon which was lovely. Played some pool, watched celeb race across the world, had dinner and caught up on photos etc.Read more
Phu Quoc
November 29, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Feeling better today, sinuses have cleared.
Granola and yoghurt for breakfast.
Homestay arranged onward travel for us.
Transfer with a German couple to bus stop - 50k. Limousine minibus at 9am to Rach Gia - 180k each. Driver was hilarious, clearly keen to get away before we departed and no room for French couple's bags who arrived after us so they were crammed in the back. Drove like a maniac, overtaking anything he could and lots of beeping. Grudgingly stopped for Anna's requested toilet break.
Superdong - fast boat at 1:30pm, which had been prepaid by homestay to Phu Quoc, island on southern tip of Vietnam, 324k each. Took about 2 hours. Then taxi to Cay Sao Resort £39 for 1 night - gorgeous wooden huts on stilts with a sea view, relaxing and very beautiful. However they informed us there was no electricity but they expected it on by 6pm so Anna went for a dip in the pool and I lazed in the hammock. Once darkness hit we went to enquire and were told no electricity in the whole of the island. They managed to cook us lemongrass and chili tofu with rice in the dark - didn't eat much of rice as wasn't hot so were a bit worried about it. Then played pool in the semi dark and had an early night of reading. Phones were both on low battery so didn't want to use much. Room was pretty hot but we wetted our sweat towels / Anna's backpacker towel and slept ok.Read more
Rocks Beach Boutique
November 30, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
Anna was up early for a beautiful sunrise, I had a quick look and fell back asleep.
We had banana pancakes for breakfast - yum! They told us the undersea electricity cable has broken and they might not have power for the next week or so. Majority of the island has no power but some of South is ok as they are fed by overhead lines
We went 2 hotels down to check that our next location had electricity - we had looked the night before and seemed to. They confirmed they had a generator so good to stay and went back to play pool and lounge in the hammocks until check out at midday.
We went to Rocks Beach Boutique £77 a night for an overwater bungalow - amazing value and one of first hotels we booked but then dates changed which is why we've ended up with 3 diff hotels to stay at! Room not ready so we had a wander round and chilled by the pool. Beautiful place!
Room was ready slightly early so we got settled and Anna jumped straight in the sea from our overwater bungalow - there were tons of tiny fish and many started jumping out of the sea around her when disturbed, flying round her head!
We had a late lunch in the resort, more expensive here as expected. Then I planned to lay by pool but sun had gone by this point. I sat and read on the boardwalk in the sun and watched the sunset. Then we had a brief walk but road was pretty busy and it was getting dark.
We sat outside at the beach bar for dinner - tofu curry which was lovely and there was a fire show along the boardwalk by 2 guys - truly spectacular, not seen any fire show half as good before! They bashed the pois against the boardwalk making massive sparks everywhere. They also came round the tables spinning fire around people's heads! Two came and attacked me at once, I feared for my hair! We planned to tip them but they just packed up and went so guess they are well paid by hotel. Truly magical evening.
However first 2 mozzy bites! Expected them in Ninh Binh and Mekong but so far had been lucky. Anna only got a few so far and that was while she was in hospital!Read more
Ancarine beach resort
December 1, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
Woke up for sunrise which was stunning.
Buffet breakfast, tummy felt a bit queasy but cold much better today.
Dipped in the pool and sunbathed then kayaked a bit and swam outside of the room in the sea.
Checked out at the last moment possible and got a Grab to other side of the island at Ong Beach - Ancarine resort (£90 per night for beachfront bungalow). Grab driver was lovely and stopped at ATM for us but also wanted us to stop at a giant fancy pearl shop which we did and were followed round by a scurry of shop assistants at every step. It was all pretty pricey and not really our style. Our driver then wanted us to go to the silk shop nearby but we refused this. Guessing he gets a sales commission.
New hotel is lovely, room was ready to check in early. It's a beachfront bungalow with a view of the sea and right next to pool and restaurant. Has an outside bathroom and when shown around there was a smashed pot plant on the floor. The door locks from the inside to keep the monkeys out! Sadly we didn't see any.
Much busier here, lots of people on the sunbeds by the beach. Had a lovely lunch right on the beach. Delicious huge slabs of tofu with lemongrass.
Fell asleep on the sun lounger in the shade by the pool for an hour. Anna went snorkelling in the sea and I called the hippies briefly. We went for a walk at sunset which was spectacular then had dinner at the hotel which was another yummy dish.Read more
Cable car & snorkelling
December 2, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
Early breakfast and then got picked up for our tour (£49 each, John's Tours seems to have a monopoly here as has tons of buses / boats). Met a nice American lesbian couple who had adopted a young Vietnamese guy to travel with and train for their business. They left America after Trump was elected and are living in Bangkok but have to leave every so often for visas. We learnt from them the fingers crossed (as in I hope so, national lottery symbol) means vagina and shouldn't be used!
We got to the tour agency where they were put on another bus which was a shame and eventually we were then moved to a diff bus. After plenty more faffing and a few pick ups, plus listening to 2 boys non stop jabbering (if they weren't on drugs they were on v strong coffee!), we arrived at the south of the island - a big contrast to the shantier roads we had been going through - this part was far more posh and Sunset Town where we got off was cobbled and very European! The contrast felt very surreal.
We got the world's longest cable car across several islands to Sunworld. Spectacular views. Sunworld is an unfinished Disney-esque place but not many rides. We had an hour to spend at Aquatopia which had a good lazy river which I stuck to whilst Anna tried to go on the slides but was first told no due to her watch and go pro, and then because of a button on her shorts! She was not happy. She eventually found a slide she was able to go on but we lost each other and almost missed the meeting time. We only had an hour and a half there which wasn't really enough.
Then we took a quick giant golf cart to a water bus which ferried us to a larger boat. We went snorkelling and the reef was better than I expected - lots of diff, large corals but not many fish apart from some smaller ones and a few parrotfish. There were loads of sargent major fish around the boat. There was also a big inflatable slide into the sea from the top deck which was fun.
For lunch they tried to send all the vegetarians upstairs but we wanted to eat together so our fab tour guide brought me down various bits - huge plate of noodles and then rice, plus some soup, then a huge plate of tofu and the obligatory fruit. So much food!! We threw some rice to the fishes which made them swarm.
After lunch, we could go snorkelling again but it was in the same place so I wasn't bothered (supposed to be a diff place but I think due to it being slightly rough we didn't change). Anna went back in and saw a sea snake which freaked her out.
Then we pootled to a different island where you could parasail, jetski etc but not much was going on as a bit wavy. We had to clamber across another boat and various rickety, swaying platforms to get to shore. There were several restaurants and some sunbeds for hire. We'd both dried off and the sea didn't look amazing enough to entice us back in so we had a coconut, went for a wander, had an iced coconut lolly and then Anna had an iced coffee.
Then back onto the boat and went back to the harbour at the start of the cable car and 2 buses home. Long day and not th best tour I've been on but still fun to be at sea and cable car was a huge highlight - longest in the world!
After quick showers in the outdoor shower we went to dinner at the hotel and I had the lemongrass tofu again and Anna had something porky!
1 more mozzy bite.Read more
Vietnam info
December 3, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C
Amazing 2 and a bit weeks, absolutely loved it all, apart from the hospital visit. The people are so friendly, smiley and seem very happy. Some general info:
Water - cheap and often provided by tours, boats, grabs etc plus usually get 2 bottles in hotels rooms which are often replaced each day, so bought a lot less than expected.
Coconuts v cheap, v tasty and available everywhere.
Money:
Some bookings hotels took payment before arrival. For those that didn't generally added 3% to pay by credit card.
Withdrew money from a few ATMs with no issues. Used Starling account card which charges no fee and tried to find ATMs with no fee. Small charge in Phu Quoc but we had limited options.
QR codes are everywhere and easy to use with Moreta app. Think charges 1.5% fee but so easy to use it's worth it. Can pay for hotels, restaurants etc.
Language is hard to speak but we learnt a few basic phrases and it made all the people super happy as they said very few people try anything. They are very happy to teach new phrases.
Travel:
We used Grab app as much as we could because it's easy, super quick and priced is set. Also paid straight from credit card so don't have to worry about having cash.Read more
Cambodia: Sihanoukville
December 3, 2025 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
After a lovely breakfast, we got a Grab to the port (£9) then got back on the Superdong ferry to Ha Tien (1h20). I'd booked the ferry tickets through 12go, which we'd used before but hadn't received the confirmation email so had to chase this up last night which was a bit of a worry. It came through by the morning however we weren't sure how to convert to a boarding pass. This was done by the ferry staff but took a bit longer than other people who just walked straight on so clearly not the best way to book. Also ended up downstairs which are the cheaper seats however it wasn't full so could spread out.
Tried to get a Grab to the border but wouldn't work so got a taxi for 150k. Anna had failed to pick up any coffee beans so she was on a last minute hunt and the driver took her to a random house where they roasted it in their back garden. Happy Flump!
We got our exit stamps easily then filled in the Cambodian forms and paid $40 each - price was written on a scrap of paper so think it changes depending on their moods. Supposed to be 30 but what can you do... We handed over our passports and after 15 mins got our visas. We then had to wait in the passport stamp line which was super slow. Then suddenly they did everything at double speed and rushed the rest of us through quickly - time for lunch I think. They took photos and thumb prints. However no $1 health check scam that we've read about. Overall it took about an hour to get through. Was super hot so very sweaty by the end.
We didn't fancy a cramped Cambodian minibus (no more limousines here!) for 5 hours so had booked a private car via mangotaxis (£70) and so glad we did. The driver Mr Sophy was absolutely lovely and took a few detours via Kep and Kampot to show us the sights. He pointed out all sorts of things and taught us some basic Cambodian. The roads were mostly good apart from a half hour stretch which was dirt red track full of dogs, chickens and cows and very bumpy but that didn't slow anybody down! After that we had a quick loo stop and perked up Anna and our driver with some iced coffee. It took about 3.5 hours to get there, through amazing scenery. It felt like a tour rather than just a transfer. It drizzled most of the way but there was one bad downpour with a thunder storm. Apparently dry season started 2 weeks ago! Just as we got to our hotel it absolutely chucked it down. He tried to drive up the pavement for us but was told off so Anna made a run for it in her rain jacket and he got an umbrella for me. Absolute gent.
We checked into the Aristocrat Residence Hotel (£50) which was nicer than expected. Sihanoukville was apparently a small coastal city but has been taken over by huge Chinese skyscraper hotels for casinos and as a result few tourists stay. We knew this in advance but it worked for our itinerary and it has an odd vibe but we enjoyed our brief stay.
The rain stopped so we headed for a sunset walk along the beach. The beach is nicer than we expected and a nice path along the beach. However first 20+ restaurants were Chinese and had tons of miserable looking young staff sat outside them. We carried on and found a Cambodian restaurant Khin's Shack which was great. Anna had the local dish - Fish Amok, a fish curry and I had a veggie version. Huge portions and both really delicious! I remember Cambodian food being quite bland from my previous visit so this was a welcome surprise. $15. All prices quoted in dollars, even at the coffee shop we stopped at earlier, though have change in Riel.Read more
Fly to Siem Reap
December 4, 2025 in Cambodia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
Slept well for first time in ages - twin beds are so much better!
Breakfast was a disappointing affair. Anna had a full English which was fairly good. The only other non-noodly / rice option for me was a cheese toastie which arrived as anaemic white bread with a weird cheese and some sort of flavoured mayo. Not for me so I had a few crusts but then popped to the bakery across the road for a pain au chocolate and raisin swirl which were much better.
Got a Grab to the airport, about $10 which was half hour away. Driver didn't speak a word to us or the airport guys and didn't get out the car to help with our luggage - most unusual.
The breakfast guy had scared us saying we should leave earlier than we'd planned so we left a bit earlier however on arrival at airport, bag drop / check in for our flight didn't open for another hour! Only needed to get here 1.5 hours before flight. Airport is tiny with check-in stands outside and no seating available apart from one cafe so we along with everyone else who'd made the same mistake sat there.
Otherwise all went smoothly, v small airport. Plane was 20 mins late taking off but got free water and a biscuit. 1 hour flight. Plus free water fountain on landing at Siem Reap at about 3pm.
Grab was 132k whereas official taxi was 100k ($25) so took that and was a limousine type van and also gave lift to one of the airport workers.
Airport was an hour away from Siem Reap center.
Khmer Mansion Boutique Hotel is our next stop (£160 for 3 nights) and is hidden down an alley but it leads to a jungly oasis with lots of Buddha etc statues. We were greeted by them and given the loveliest welcome along with drinks and snacks.
We were planning to do the temple sunset but it seemed too rushed so instead we just went for a wander. Siem Reap is a lot more built up than I remember it. Really nice vibe, there's lots of touting but it's not too in your face. We wandered around the market and then across the river to the night market. Same same but different. I got some traveller trousers and an elephant top for about $5 each, didn't bother to haggle as happy to pay that price. Both a bit on the small side though.Anna got the same top but diff colour and a silk scarf and bracelet.
Also got a SIM for $6.5 which had more than enough GB, changed our Vietnamese dong and got some cash out as Moreta app is down in Cambodia this week per the app.
We had dinner at Madam Moch Khmer which I'd read did good veggie food. We had spring rolls, both had veggie cashew nut dish, coconut, beer and tonic water plus a chocolate 'turtle' snickers type thing for $13. Prices here are pleasantly cheaper than Phu Quoc. Very good food. On our way home we went to the gelato lab for a chocolate and black pepper gelato cone $1.5 each and v v good!!Read more
Angkor Wat
December 5, 2025 in Cambodia ⋅ 🌙 24 °C
Super early start! 4:40am pick up by our guide for our temples tour. Anna wanted a private guide so we got Mr Rain for $80 with his driver and a limousine van with AC (life saver!). We were taken to Angkor Wat where we then had to wait an hour for sunrise. Granted we did have front row lake 'seats' however it was muddy so had to stand and think I'd have opted for another hour in bed as plenty of space to the side of lake for good pics. Felt really warm waiting. Sunrise was beautiful and we then sat and had our breakfast boxes from the hotel which were great, lots of pastries and fruit and 2 boiled eggs for Anna which she didn't eat.
Then we walked round Angkor Wat temple for what felt like a fiery eternity.before seeking the refuge of the van where we received a cold bottle of water and scented icy face towels - amazing! The trip to the temple didn't last long enough and we were soon thrust back into the heat.
And so it continued. Temple, melting, van, cooling slightly, and repeat...a lot. Our guide was good but tours are not really my thing and I'd have preferred to just wander freely but I did learn a lot. Last time I visited here I was sick from the heat (and possibly dodgy pizza) so I was prepared with an umbrella and sweat towel you could wet this time. This definitely helped and I just about survived this time around. Still we were both very happy to head home back to the refuge of our hotel at about 1pm. Even Anna was fully templed out. Ta Prohm was my favourite by far as per last time. I would have spent much longer there and less time studying some of the wall carvings in Angkor Wat if it was up to me. I saw 2 monkeys, 1 at a temple and 1 on top of a bin.
Once back, we popped to the restaurant next door and had a quick lunch. Mine was lemongrass tofu which had ginger and a turmeric curry type taste, tasted nice if a bit odd. Then we showered and both promptly fell asleep for more than an hour.
We then had a dip in the lovely pool which was actually pretty chilly, brrr. From hot to cold.
After a bit of confusion, I'd managed to book some massages at the hotel ($15 each). We were given some pandan tea and fried banana strips (?) as we wrote some postcards. The massages were amazing. Anna helped a few times as her calves have been sore since snorkelling, but mine was really good. Afterwards we were given ginger tea and some fruit. Such amazing service here!
Anna's choice for dinner and she led us to a few deserted restaurants which didn't look too good so we ended up back at the same one we'd been to for lunch. It was very busy, mostly non-westerners which was good however we waited ages for food and then they messed up Anna's order so she ended up waiting about an hour. Her stomach was playing up and she has a sore throat so she was not a happy bunny. I had tofu Amok curry which was really nice, quite similar in flavour to the lunch time. Anna ordered some fish dish which was nice when it eventually arrived, but was surrounded by raw vegetables such as aubergine and green beans. Very odd. She just ate the fish and rice, not wanting to risk anything. By this point it was 10pm and we were both shattered so not time for ice cream.Read more
Tonle sap floating village
December 6, 2025 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
Much needed lie in this morning, slept fairly well. However Anna's cold has developed and she is super sniffly and hormonal. Uh oh. Only got yelled at half a dozen times today.
Breakfast was a delicious buffet of fruit and pastries and then they came round with an a la carte menu so we have fluffy banana pancakes too. Anna had 2 iced coffees and a cappuccino and was vaguely functioning after that.
We went to the market to change my pants and top for larger sizes. Surprisingly found the right stalls fairly quickly which is nothing short of miraculous since they all look the same. They swapped them with no quibbles. And we bought some more things too! Had a Dubai chocolate gelato for $2.50 which was hugely disappointing. Then picked up a bread roll, loads of banana chips and some roasted broad beans for $3 for lunch.
I had a dip in the pool while Anna rested and then at 2pm we went on the floating villages tour (£15 each). We had been planning a whole day tour but needed a more chill day. Bus ride for 45 mins out of town, waited in long toilet line then got on a boat and went up the river into the floating village. Then we had the option of a small boat tour through the flooded mangrove forests for $5.50 per person and closer to some of the homes. It was absolutely stunning and our lady was singing along and chatting with all the others. Then we were dropped off a floating restaurant where we had coconuts before getting back on the big boat and going onto the Tonle Sap lake which is huge - largest in SE Asia and watched the sunset before heading back. Absolutely magical tour. On the way back our guide, Chong told us how his Dad had been killed by Pol Pot's regime and how his local school had remained shut for 9 years.
Once back we dumped our stuff and headed out for dinner. We went along Pub Street which is just round the corner from us, closed to traffic, full of brightly coloured, over-priced Western bars and restaurants and it was absolutely heaving. Great atmosphere (Saturday night) and Christmas music playing.
I fancied a change from Asian food so we went to Chubby Gonzo's where I had 3 sweet potato and black bean tacos for $1 each. Meat ones were double. Some of the best tacos I've ever had! Amazing.
Then we headed to Gelato lab but the queues were ginormous. It has tons of reviews so guessing it's an Instagram spot. Instead I'd noticed a place on Pub St called Khmer gelato. The dark chocolate was so so good! Super rich with chocolate bits, might make it into my top 5 ice creams!!! Fab day.
Today was first time I bought water since being in Cambodia and was only to be polite in a restaurant! We got a ton on the temples tour yesterday and the hotel brings up glasses almost every time we enter the lobby!Read more
War museum, temples & Phuket
December 7, 2025 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
Another yummy breakfast and 3 coffees for Anna and then we got the local tuk tuk motorbike driver to take us to the War Museum, which was a sobering affair. Lots of tanks, a plane, helicopter, guns and lots of landmines. It didn't have tons of info but then had some stories of landmine victims.
He then drove us to the temples. It felt cooler today so felt very nice to drive around them in the open air. We stopped briefly to see the North gate, Preah Khan and Ta Som, which was virtually empty. And we saw many more from the coolness of the tuktuk. My kind of templing!
By the time we headed back it was starting to get a lot hotter. After showering and packing we checked out - they had given us an extra hour for free which was lovely and presented us with scarves as leaving gifts - such an amazing hotel with the best service I've ever known.
We went next door to Damnak for lunch, third time lucky and all went well. I had Khmer tom yum tofu which was absolutely delicious with these stringy mushrooms that were like noodles. Anna had lok lak again. Then Anna picked up another scarf and we changed what few dollars we had left into Thai.
Our driver from the airport had offered to take us back for the same price and sent his friend instead. It was fairly busy due to a half marathon being held round Angkor - we saw some of the competitors, very impressive in that heat!
Air Asia flight to Phuket, our most expensive yet at £99 each took off at 5pm and landed about an hour later, half hour ahead of schedule. Met a German couple who had been on our floating village tour yesterday who Anna took a photo of and they kept offering to repay the favour.
Got a Thai SIM card for 400 baht (£9.50), likely pay more at airport but convenient as nothing near next hotel. Overall paid about £20 for Sims versus £55 Anna paid for an e-sim. Mine is unlimited data but it's been plenty for me.
Grab was £11 which seemed a lot for 15 mins journey. Think there might be a pick-up fee they have to pay.
Staying at Coriacea Beachfront Boutique hotel which is just by airport so Anna can go plane spotting! At £90 a night you'd expect something pretty good but the room is a bit gloomy and grubby. A good paint job would brighten the whole place up. However there is a free snacks section in the hallway which is nice! Instead of a wall between the shower and the room there is glass! Just as well we are a couple.
We had dinner in the hotel - nice tofu salad bowls with sesame dressing and a bowl of chips, pricey at 700B. Then wandered up the beach and spotted a few planes taking off. They aren't as close as I thought they might be, I feared it would be scarily close but it's a 'nice distance away' close! We kept our eyes open for leatherback turtles which nest here.
Now time for the voyeuristic shower!Read more
Cambodia info
December 7, 2025 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
Sihanoukville - not worth a visit unless travelling through to islands. Taken over by Chinese, construction sites everywhere and skyscrapers.
Siem Reap - has changed massively since I came 20 years ago. Roads are far better and tons of restaurants / bars. However prices have stayed relatively low. $3 for a meal, 50c for a beer. Though triple that for Pub Street.
Cambodian People are absolutely lovely!
Language isn't as hard as it looks for the basics and they really appreciate it as few tourists make the effort.
Money:
All prices are in dollars. Usually get change in Riel but would recommend just taking / withdrawing dollars.
There is a standard fee for ATM withdrawals of $5.
No credit card charges for 2 transactions we made.
Moreta app didn't work - said it was temporarily down in Cambodia however lots of QR codes around.
Transport via grab or tuktuks.Read more