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El Camino de Santiago

September - Oktober 2024
  • Bron Plaskowski
Petualangan 40-sehari oleh Bron Baca selengkapnya
  • Bron Plaskowski

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  • Spanyol Spanyol
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  • Bron PlaskowskiPelancongEl Camino de Santiago
    Very random, coming across this American cyclist singing under a tree.
    Last view of Carrion.We were out of town for 8am.The terrain was flat and almost featureless.Need to be eagle eyed to spot this sign.Someone must have been having a hard day.The albergue we were staying at.The tapas just about kept us going until the pizza arrived.One of a number of abandoned houses.Mud bricks before being plastered over with more mud and straw.Rustic construction.A functional door.The streets were very quiet.Reminded me of Coronation Street.2What bird needs a nest this big?Would quite like to watch the game being played.

    A Really Rural Village

    30 September 2024, Spanyol ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    In days, we are now over halfway. Today we completed our 17th walking day and there are 16 walking days left. In terms of distance we have completed 247 miles, with 237 miles to go.

    Today's route was flat, featureless farm land, with little shade and a 60m rise over the last mile. The first town we came across was 10.5miles in, so an enterprising person had set up a food truck about 5 miles in. The lack of shade is fine at the end of September, but I certainly wouldn't fancy it July or August with temperatures getting over 30 degrees.

    Today we stayed in a small farming village, I'm not convinced it would still be here if the Camino didn't go through it. A number of the properties were built using mud bricks, made of mud, straw and stones. The place looked deserted, there were no shops, or bars or restaurants, only a couple of hostels. So I was very pleasantly surprised to find that the place we were staying in was really nice and we had quite a modern room.

    Having a beer outside the hostel, in the afternoon sun, we met Matt, an American bloke we had met on the road on our 2nd day and 4 other people we had dinner with in Atapuerca. It's a small world if you follow the guide book.

    Carrion to Ledigos
    Distance: 14.63
    Time: 5hrs 8mins
    Speed: 2.8 mph    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Bron PlaskowskiPelancongEl Camino de Santiago
    It was proper dark when we set off today.
    Missed the best of the sunrise as we soon dropped into a dip.Now that's what you call a garage.They seem to struggle to build a flat wall round here.The deserted N120 and the new motorway they have built beside it.The church originates from 1174.The monument claiming that this is the geographical midpoint of the Camino.Reminded me of Simon Templar, unfortunately I'm old enough to remember.Caught in the act twice, he is even filming himself doing it.I wonder if this is the work of the same bloke in the previous photo.And this one, all quite close together in Sahagun.Very important to take the route to the left, the other bypasses our albergue for tonight.Almost completely deserted road, lined with shade that went on for 3 miles. Saw more bikes than cars.I don't know what it is but it's winking at me!When I saw this, especially with another 4 miles to go, I wished we were staying here.They've gone to town on their garden fence.Drinks at our non bar bar.Everything on the table, for 6 euros, this is my sort of place.Forecast for tomorrow is 50% chance of rain over the morning, looking menacing already.Home for the night, probably sharing with more truckers than pilgrims!

    The Longest Day

    1 Oktober 2024, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Almost as if to celebrate reaching halfway, today's walk was to be the longest one of the whole trip. Yesterday we stopped 2 miles short of the suggested town and today we had to go 4.5 miles further than the suggested town, as we couldn't book accommodation in either.

    Leaving at 07:15 now means a good 30 mins of walking in the dark with the head torch. Initially there were two different routes you could follow which came together after 5 miles. A more rural route or one following the N120 which in this area is almost deserted as they have built a dual carriageway parallel with it (I wonder where that money came from!). We took the road route and soon gave up on the path beside it and walked on the hard shoulder as it was much more comfortable and there was next to no traffic.

    Now I'm a little confused, as 8 miles in we came across a little monument saying that this was the geographical mid point of the Camino. However, we had at this point walked 255 miles, meaning we would be walking 510 miles instead of 484 miles. My only hope is that they've drawn a straight line between St Jean and Santiago, or that the route on the first half goes round the houses and the 2nd half is much more direct, fingers crossed.

    We had a break in Bercianos for 30 mins at 16 miles and then finished off the last 4.7 miles in decent time. Got in for 15:15, I was already showered, had a pizza and had a couple of beers by that time yesterday!

    Carol booked all the accommodation online before we left home. Today's was about 600m outside the town, called Hotel Castillo El Burgo. Sounded very nice, though when we got here it turned out to be a motorway services!! At least we can get food and a beer 24hrs a day.

    After a shower, rest and getting 10kg off my back I actually felt quite good so at around 17:00 we walked into the village. No bars or restaurants but we stopped at a shop that had beers in the fridge and a few tables outside in the sun. So we had a couple of beers, a few cuts of meat and cheese, then a few more and each time they gave us some extra bits as well. It was the best non bar bar I've ever been too!

    Ledigos to El Burgo Ranero
    Distance: 20.74 miles
    Time: 7hrs 48mins
    Speed: 2.7 mph    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Bron PlaskowskiPelancongEl Camino de Santiago
    Could have been worse, might not have been in matching rain capes! You do look like a hunchback though.
    Maybe could introduce this into high streets in London.The shade of the trees is slightly less important today.A dead baby snake, only about 6 inches long, there were also a few dead frogs along the way today.Couldn't stop humming the tune after seeing this.The only village we passed through today, none the wiser about the tomato even with a google search.The road did go somewhere once.What remains of Mansilla's 12th century gated entrance.Most towns seemed to have commissioned monuments to the Camino.

    A Rather Damp Day

    2 Oktober 2024, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    So after sitting in the late afternoon sun in t-shirt and shorts, eating and drinking at our new favourite non bar, bar, this morning it was raining. Which was good news for Carol as she's got to try out her new rain cape, as her old one was destroyed by the wind on the first day out of Burgos.

    Despite the rain and the wind getting up later in the morning, the terrain was pretty flat so we still made good progress. In fact it was probably wanting to get out of the rain that pushed us along to getting finished for about 12:15.

    It continued raining all afternoon which meant that apart from a brief, wet walk, we spent the rest of the afternoon in the room and the hostel bar. I don't mind getting soaked while I'm out walking but once I'm showered, dressed and warm, the thought of going back out in the rain doesn't appeal at all.

    So just 14 days of walking left now and it's starting to feel like this is going to be over before we know it.

    El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas
    Distance: 12.33 miles
    Time: 4hrs 9mins
    Speed: 3 mph    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Bron PlaskowskiPelancongEl Camino de Santiago
    As hard as it tried the sun couldn't quite make its way through the mist.
    Corn on the cob for breakfast doesn't sound as appetising as a bunch of grapes off the vine.Looks like they've stuck a new road deck on an old bridge.What else do you keep on your front seat but half an engine.An ex church stripped of it's bells, turned into a cultural centre.Our apartment today is slightly more comfortable than yesterday's room.The medieval marketProperties built into the city walls.I think you'd admit to anything having sat on that chair for long enough.I understand the nuts but the haribos!The perfect setting for a medieval market.The first time I've heard of a doner kabab referred to as artisanal.Bagpipes get everywhere.I was very tempted to have a go

    Back in The City

    3 Oktober 2024, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    We set off this morning to a cool, misty but more importantly dry morning. Currently the forecast is for 3 dry days and then almost a week of 50-50 chance of rain each day.

    For the last couple of days the path had been along side almost deserted country roads, which I've walked along rather than the stony path. Today is the same, except it was a busy road which turned into a dual carriageway on the outskirts of Leon and the countryside gave way to sporadic light industrial buildings and some retail for a couple of miles. Until we could see Leon in the distance under some very low cloud.

    On arriving in Leon we were able access the apartment just after midday. So a couple of washing machine loads later we headed out to explore Leon. Currently there is the San Froilan festival going on, which last 10 days. There was a medieval market with some remarkablely 21st century products on sale.

    Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon
    Distance: 11.19 miles
    Time: 3 hrs 36 mins
    Speed: 3.1 miles    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Bron PlaskowskiPelancongEl Camino de Santiago
    One of the most striking murals I've seen.
    Pretty much all our clothes, washed and ready for our next stint.A side street off the cathedral square.The square was the grain market dating back to the 10th century, the church is from the 12th centuryA hostel run by Benedictine nuns.A rather cryptic inscription, 'For those who were, are and will be'Not sure why the balloons are there, maybe to do with the food truck festival.There seems to be more old double decker buses abroad than there are at home.Part of a food truck festival.Part of the original Roman city walls.I seriously think I could have done better myselfThe actual Kings of LeonLeon's city symbol, created by drones.Firework display to round off the day's festival activities.Traditional dancing from the region.The band dressed in their medieval gear played a number of songs and then moved on.

    A Day Exploring Leon

    4 Oktober 2024, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    The stretch between Burgos and Leon always felt like it would be make or break. In Burgos it was 13 days down and still 20 days to go. Now in Leon it's 20 days down and 13 days to go. Psychologically a huge turnaround, Santiago does actually feel so much closer now.

    This morning we went out to explore more of the back streets, squares and buildings around the city. After some tapas and a drink we went back to the apartment to relax and get our stuff together for tomorrow.

    Just after 7pm we went back out to watch some traditional dancing, part of the San Froilan festival, then on for a drink and then on for something to eat. In the street on the way to the restaurant, two women called out and came running over two us. It took a few moments to realise, it was the German mother and daughter who we shared our 4 bunk space with on the very first night in Roncesvalles. Was so lovely to see them and have a quick catch up on what they had been up to. We are a day ahead of them as they had arrived today, but it would be really nice to bump into them again in Santiago.

    After eating we headed over to the river to catch the last 15 mins of a concert and then to watch a 10 min drone show followed by 15 mins of fireworks to round off the night. It was 00:20 by the time we got back to the apartment. Our latest evening on a school night, very late for early rising pilgrims!    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Bron PlaskowskiPelancongEl Camino de Santiago
    An unusually modern church in La Virgen del Camino.
    Unusual shop front.There were lots of locals in traditional dress heading to some sort of gathering.Interesting footwear.It seems these stork nests get everywhere.Today's room is a step down on the Leon apartment.The backend of the bell tower of the church in Villadangos.The Kotton Club has taken a bit of a downturn since I saw the film.Not too sure on the provenance of the wine with tonight's pilgrim dinner.

    Good to be Walking Again

    5 Oktober 2024, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Despite the late night we were up and out just after 07:30 this morning, with the street lights guiding our way until it got light. Could have easily spent another night in Leon, so much to see and do. But instead we set off on the first of the 8 days on the road until we reach Sarria.

    We could have left 2hrs earlier as the urban sprawl and light industrial sites of Leon ran into La Virgen del Camino, the next town along the route. It was 6 miles before the street lights and the pavements ran out. From this point the route followed alongside the N120, no longer a redundant main road because of a parallel motorway, but now a busy and noisy main road, despite it being a Saturday and a bank holiday.

    Just after 12:00, we arrived at our very uninspiring hostel at the side of the N120, next to a petrol station. Memories of El Burgo Ranero and the motorway services were re-invoked! A short walk into Villadangos turned up two bars, a small shop and the local church. After sampling the delights of the two bars and a visit to the church it was back to our accommodation to rest up and watch Arsenal make hard work of beating Southampton on an internet streaming site which I was told about, so not much rest at all really.

    Leon to Villadangos del Paramo
    Distance: 12.78
    Time: 4hrs 30 mins
    Speed: 2.8 mph    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Bron PlaskowskiPelancongEl Camino de Santiago
    A really striking mural, first one I've seen on this subject, presumably the Peninsular War.
    When you need a seat you aren't going to be too bothered it's made out of some old pallet.The clouds are so heavy, they look like they are going to touch the ground.The bridge and historically an area for jousting which has been recreated, in Hospital de Orbigo.Someone is burying themselves into the ground.Looking like a hobbit's houseCould have just as easily walked through the 'river'.At the top of the hill the view of the next town, San Justo and Astorga beyond was a welcome sight.By the time you wound your way up there, over the railway and all the way back down it was over 200mGlad I have a rucksack rather than a suitcase.Staying in a hotel tonight, does feel a little like cheating.Not quite sure why they appear to be making boxes.The town hall.Astorga cathedral.The Bishop's palace, designed by Gaudi.

    A Little Bit of Climbing

    6 Oktober 2024, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I suppose this morning was payback for all the times the forecast said there was a 50% chance of rain and yet it never did. We had light rain on and off and a stiff breeze for the first 3 miles, though the rest of the day was dry and far less windy.

    It's interesting how having a rest day makes you feel out of sorts when you start back again. I spoke to people yesterday who felt exactly the same way, how their packs felt heavier and they were walking slower. Yet today we felt like we were back in the grove. I suppose the answer is simple.....

    The 2nd half of today's route included 4 short climbs, not too steep and each one about a kilometre long. Which made a change from the predominantly flatter terrain we've had this last week or so. The Camino's way of introducing us gently to the serious climbing a few days ahead in Galicia and on to the highest point of the whole walk, at just over 1,500m.

    We arrived at 13:30, showered, changed and out to do some sight seeing in this city dating back to pre Roman times. Unfortunately, it started raining almost straight away so we had to take shelter in an Irish bar with the Aston Villa v Man Utd game on. The first time I've seen English football on in a bar on the whole trip.

    The rain eventually stopped, allowing us to do a bit of exploring. This is the sort of place we could have easily spent another day in, but tomorrow is another day and another walk.

    Villadangos del Paramo to Astorga
    Distance: 18.12 miles
    Time: 5hrs 55 mins
    Speed: 3.1 mph    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Bron PlaskowskiPelancongEl Camino de Santiago
    There was something so inviting in the warm glow of the lights on a misty morning.
    I had a drink let's see how my health goes.The first bar in any village always gets by far the most business.Prime location in the middle of the village, a bit of a doer upper.Got mistier the more we climbed.If a fly got caught in there it would be likely to drown.The name alone would get people to stop.About 8 miles in the mist started to lift.For a place with a resident population of 50 there are a lot of facilities.The veg just looked so strikingly colourful.Where better to set up a missionary operation than somewhere with so many people passing through.This isn't sausage, egg and chips, it's chorizo, egg and chips, I was being adventurous.This is the church 'refurbished' by the Benedictine monks, they certainly didn't over do it.The entrance to the monks small monastery.Rabanal high street, not much has changed for a very long time.

    Getting Higher and Higher

    7–9 Okt 2024, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    This misty but windless morning we left the busy roads behind and set out for the hills. Although, we did follow a road for about half the day, it was far quieter. For periods the only sound was our feet on the ground and of our heavier breathing as the path turned upwards.

    The villages we travelled through today didn't look much changed from medieval times. The only exception being some bars and rest stops colourfully done out to attract passing pilgrims, like brightly coloured flowers trying to entice passing bees. The people living in the villages, the Maragato are said to date back to the 7th century. There are around 4,000 of them left still living in this area spread over around 25 villages.

    We arrived just before midday feeling like we'd only done a half day and should really be carrying on. However, once we'd showered had a wander round the village and were tucking into lunch those feelings soon disappeared.

    Today, we are now at around 1,140m, with a high of 15 degrees and a cold wind. It rained while we had lunch but the sun came out afterwards and we found a little bar with a suntrap terrace, playing laid back music. It was so lovely but we only had 30 mins before they closed for siesta. Though somehow that made you focus all the more on enjoying having a beer in your hand and the sun on your face, albeit whilst still wearing 4 layers.

    Rabanal, along with it's resident population of 50 people, has a order of Benedictine missionary monks, originally from Bavaria, who have restored and reopened a church in the village square. They undertake vespers at 7pm, which is almost all in the form of Gregorian chanting. The small church was standing room only by the time it started. The introduction was in English and the same reading was performed in 4 languages. The rest was in Latin, but despite not understanding anything, there was something special in the sound and the rhythm and the ritual and in sharing it with a large group of people.

    Astorga to Rabanal del Camino
    Distance: 12.31 miles
    Time: 4hrs 5 mins
    Speed: 3.0 mph    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Bron PlaskowskiPelancongEl Camino de Santiago
    Not the easiest surface to walk on, especially on a steep angle.
    Carol lost her glove yesterday, so had to make do with one of my socks as a mitten.Following the lights up front.The sun finally came up.The cow was having a good scratch on the tree.Foncebadon, should imagine this plot would be reasonably priced.Cruz de Ferro, with stones left by people around the base.Years of stones built up around the base.Would have been a lot easier just to have walked along the road.Deserted village, where someone has set up a hostel, resident population of the village now is 1.How much time does someone have to balance 3 stones at improbable angles.Acebo, the first village we came across on the decentThe high street in Acebo.Decisions, decisions.In need of a little work.She must do well selling things to the passing pilgrims to afford this vehicle.Was a relief to finally see Molinaseca.Finally in town.The high street in MolinasecaNot sure why, but it's a thing to come and bathe in the river, what there is of it.

    A Very Long Decent

    8 Oktober 2024, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Straight out of the hostel this morning we were into a 350m climb up to the Cruz de Ferro (the iron cross) which is almost the highest point on the Camino. We set off at 07:15, so by the time it got light we were already halfway there.

    Apparently people bring stones from home with them to lay at the Cruz de Ferro. Whether to remember someone or something or to leave something from their lives behind to allow them move on. I'd not heard of this until the day before we started, just as well as my bag was more than heavy enough already.

    Five miles later we reached the highest point of the Camino at 1,515m. The only issue now was that Molinaseca is at 610m, meaning a 905m decent. Descending is always tougher on feet, ankles, knees than climbing is, particularly on loose stones and small rocks or jagged slabs of rock. This decent had plenty of both. Which made for a slow and tiring last 7 miles. It was a great relief when Molinaseca finally came into view, even though there was still a couple of km of descending to go.

    All this made for a quiet afternoon and evening. A couple of beers, a meal and an early night, ready for the longest remaining walk tomorrow.

    Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca
    Distance: 15.85 miles
    Time: 6hrs 56 mins
    Speed: 2.3 mph    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Bron PlaskowskiPelancongEl Camino de Santiago
    What a spot for a house, amongst vineyards and with the mountains as a backdrop.
    An interesting beer pumpOnly saw this on the way out this morning.The 12th century Knights Templar castle in Ponferada.The biggest Camino pavement sign I've seen.Graffiti style direction arrows now.Something quite clever about this.Ringing my socks out after going through the lake under the bridge.Not seen this type of directional sign before.Unusual gates to a small chapel in Columbrianos.Unusual roundabout statue.Back in wine country and the grapes weren't too bad.A lot of the ground in and around the route was waterlogged with today's heavy rain.Coming into Villafranca, our rest point for the day, finally.A mini roundabout with the Santiago shell.Not too sure what it is, but striking all the same.He was taking no prisoners.What civil engineer though this would be a good solution for run off from the road above!!

    The Last of the Long Walks

    9 Oktober 2024, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Then all of a sudden it was 9 days left. Single figures seemed a distant thing for so long but now here we are. I really need to make even more effort to take in every day now as it feels as though we will be in Santiago in no time at all.

    The temperature at 07:00 was 18 degrees compared to yesterday's 7 degrees, however the forecast was for guaranteed rain for most of the day. And the forecast didn't disappoint, it rained solidly until around midday then we had 3 or 4 minute breaks and then it would start again. A couple of places were impassable, particularly under a bridge, but having looked, there was no way round so just had to walk through it. Then had to take my shoes off to pour the water out and ring out my insoles and socks. Once the remaining water warmed up my feet felt quite cosy.

    Fortunately today was relatively flat but we still didn't get into the hotel until 14:45. After yesterday's exploits and a 20 mile walk today we were both feeling quite tired. We'd also got in too late for lunch, most places close at 15:30, so had to wait until 18:30 when the odd restaurant reopened. A lot of restaurants in less touristy areas of Spain don't even open until around 20:30 for dinner. I was hoping to be in bed for that time.

    One observation we've made is that on the days when the weather is terrible you seem to see far fewer people walking. Some people do take transport over several stages. Whether that's for injury or illness, time constraints or just wanting to only walk through the more interesting areas. So a good day to do that would definitely be on days like today.

    Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzo
    Distance: 20.29 miles
    Time: 7hrs 25 mins
    Speed: 2.7 mph    Baca selengkapnya

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