Getting Higher and Higher

This misty but windless morning we left the busy roads behind and set out for the hills. Although, we did follow a road for about half the day, it was far quieter. For periods the only sound was our feet on the ground and of our heavier breathing as the path turned upwards.

The villages we travelled through today didn't look much changed from medieval times. The only exception being some bars and rest stops colourfully done out to attract passing pilgrims, like brightly coloured flowers trying to entice passing bees. The people living in the villages, the Maragato are said to date back to the 7th century. There are around 4,000 of them left still living in this area spread over around 25 villages.

We arrived just before midday feeling like we'd only done a half day and should really be carrying on. However, once we'd showered had a wander round the village and were tucking into lunch those feelings soon disappeared.

Today, we are now at around 1,140m, with a high of 15 degrees and a cold wind. It rained while we had lunch but the sun came out afterwards and we found a little bar with a suntrap terrace, playing laid back music. It was so lovely but we only had 30 mins before they closed for siesta. Though somehow that made you focus all the more on enjoying having a beer in your hand and the sun on your face, albeit whilst still wearing 4 layers.

Rabanal, along with it's resident population of 50 people, has a order of Benedictine missionary monks, originally from Bavaria, who have restored and reopened a church in the village square. They undertake vespers at 7pm, which is almost all in the form of Gregorian chanting. The small church was standing room only by the time it started. The introduction was in English and the same reading was performed in 4 languages. The rest was in Latin, but despite not understanding anything, there was something special in the sound and the rhythm and the ritual and in sharing it with a large group of people.

Astorga to Rabanal del Camino
Distance: 12.31 miles
Time: 4hrs 5 mins
Speed: 3.0 mphЧитать далее