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El Camino de Santiago
  • Bron Plaskowski
sep. – okt. 2024

El Camino de Santiago

En 40-dags äventyr från Bron Läs mer
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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    An unusually modern church in La Virgen del Camino.
    Unusual shop front.There were lots of locals in traditional dress heading to some sort of gathering.Interesting footwear.It seems these stork nests get everywhere.Today's room is a step down on the Leon apartment.The backend of the bell tower of the church in Villadangos.The Kotton Club has taken a bit of a downturn since I saw the film.Not too sure on the provenance of the wine with tonight's pilgrim dinner.

    Good to be Walking Again

    5 oktober 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Despite the late night we were up and out just after 07:30 this morning, with the street lights guiding our way until it got light. Could have easily spent another night in Leon, so much to see and do. But instead we set off on the first of the 8 days on the road until we reach Sarria.

    We could have left 2hrs earlier as the urban sprawl and light industrial sites of Leon ran into La Virgen del Camino, the next town along the route. It was 6 miles before the street lights and the pavements ran out. From this point the route followed alongside the N120, no longer a redundant main road because of a parallel motorway, but now a busy and noisy main road, despite it being a Saturday and a bank holiday.

    Just after 12:00, we arrived at our very uninspiring hostel at the side of the N120, next to a petrol station. Memories of El Burgo Ranero and the motorway services were re-invoked! A short walk into Villadangos turned up two bars, a small shop and the local church. After sampling the delights of the two bars and a visit to the church it was back to our accommodation to rest up and watch Arsenal make hard work of beating Southampton on an internet streaming site which I was told about, so not much rest at all really.

    Leon to Villadangos del Paramo
    Distance: 12.78
    Time: 4hrs 30 mins
    Speed: 2.8 mph    Läs mer

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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    A really striking mural, first one I've seen on this subject, presumably the Peninsular War.
    When you need a seat you aren't going to be too bothered it's made out of some old pallet.The clouds are so heavy, they look like they are going to touch the ground.The bridge and historically an area for jousting which has been recreated, in Hospital de Orbigo.Someone is burying themselves into the ground.Looking like a hobbit's houseCould have just as easily walked through the 'river'.At the top of the hill the view of the next town, San Justo and Astorga beyond was a welcome sight.By the time you wound your way up there, over the railway and all the way back down it was over 200mGlad I have a rucksack rather than a suitcase.Staying in a hotel tonight, does feel a little like cheating.Not quite sure why they appear to be making boxes.The town hall.Astorga cathedral.The Bishop's palace, designed by Gaudi.

    A Little Bit of Climbing

    6 oktober 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I suppose this morning was payback for all the times the forecast said there was a 50% chance of rain and yet it never did. We had light rain on and off and a stiff breeze for the first 3 miles, though the rest of the day was dry and far less windy.

    It's interesting how having a rest day makes you feel out of sorts when you start back again. I spoke to people yesterday who felt exactly the same way, how their packs felt heavier and they were walking slower. Yet today we felt like we were back in the grove. I suppose the answer is simple.....

    The 2nd half of today's route included 4 short climbs, not too steep and each one about a kilometre long. Which made a change from the predominantly flatter terrain we've had this last week or so. The Camino's way of introducing us gently to the serious climbing a few days ahead in Galicia and on to the highest point of the whole walk, at just over 1,500m.

    We arrived at 13:30, showered, changed and out to do some sight seeing in this city dating back to pre Roman times. Unfortunately, it started raining almost straight away so we had to take shelter in an Irish bar with the Aston Villa v Man Utd game on. The first time I've seen English football on in a bar on the whole trip.

    The rain eventually stopped, allowing us to do a bit of exploring. This is the sort of place we could have easily spent another day in, but tomorrow is another day and another walk.

    Villadangos del Paramo to Astorga
    Distance: 18.12 miles
    Time: 5hrs 55 mins
    Speed: 3.1 mph    Läs mer

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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    There was something so inviting in the warm glow of the lights on a misty morning.
    I had a drink let's see how my health goes.The first bar in any village always gets by far the most business.Prime location in the middle of the village, a bit of a doer upper.Got mistier the more we climbed.If a fly got caught in there it would be likely to drown.The name alone would get people to stop.About 8 miles in the mist started to lift.For a place with a resident population of 50 there are a lot of facilities.The veg just looked so strikingly colourful.Where better to set up a missionary operation than somewhere with so many people passing through.This isn't sausage, egg and chips, it's chorizo, egg and chips, I was being adventurous.This is the church 'refurbished' by the Benedictine monks, they certainly didn't over do it.The entrance to the monks small monastery.Rabanal high street, not much has changed for a very long time.

    Getting Higher and Higher

    7–9 okt. 2024, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    This misty but windless morning we left the busy roads behind and set out for the hills. Although, we did follow a road for about half the day, it was far quieter. For periods the only sound was our feet on the ground and of our heavier breathing as the path turned upwards.

    The villages we travelled through today didn't look much changed from medieval times. The only exception being some bars and rest stops colourfully done out to attract passing pilgrims, like brightly coloured flowers trying to entice passing bees. The people living in the villages, the Maragato are said to date back to the 7th century. There are around 4,000 of them left still living in this area spread over around 25 villages.

    We arrived just before midday feeling like we'd only done a half day and should really be carrying on. However, once we'd showered had a wander round the village and were tucking into lunch those feelings soon disappeared.

    Today, we are now at around 1,140m, with a high of 15 degrees and a cold wind. It rained while we had lunch but the sun came out afterwards and we found a little bar with a suntrap terrace, playing laid back music. It was so lovely but we only had 30 mins before they closed for siesta. Though somehow that made you focus all the more on enjoying having a beer in your hand and the sun on your face, albeit whilst still wearing 4 layers.

    Rabanal, along with it's resident population of 50 people, has a order of Benedictine missionary monks, originally from Bavaria, who have restored and reopened a church in the village square. They undertake vespers at 7pm, which is almost all in the form of Gregorian chanting. The small church was standing room only by the time it started. The introduction was in English and the same reading was performed in 4 languages. The rest was in Latin, but despite not understanding anything, there was something special in the sound and the rhythm and the ritual and in sharing it with a large group of people.

    Astorga to Rabanal del Camino
    Distance: 12.31 miles
    Time: 4hrs 5 mins
    Speed: 3.0 mph    Läs mer

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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    Not the easiest surface to walk on, especially on a steep angle.
    Carol lost her glove yesterday, so had to make do with one of my socks as a mitten.Following the lights up front.The sun finally came up.The cow was having a good scratch on the tree.Foncebadon, should imagine this plot would be reasonably priced.Cruz de Ferro, with stones left by people around the base.Years of stones built up around the base.Would have been a lot easier just to have walked along the road.Deserted village, where someone has set up a hostel, resident population of the village now is 1.How much time does someone have to balance 3 stones at improbable angles.Acebo, the first village we came across on the decentThe high street in Acebo.Decisions, decisions.In need of a little work.She must do well selling things to the passing pilgrims to afford this vehicle.Was a relief to finally see Molinaseca.Finally in town.The high street in MolinasecaNot sure why, but it's a thing to come and bathe in the river, what there is of it.

    A Very Long Decent

    8 oktober 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Straight out of the hostel this morning we were into a 350m climb up to the Cruz de Ferro (the iron cross) which is almost the highest point on the Camino. We set off at 07:15, so by the time it got light we were already halfway there.

    Apparently people bring stones from home with them to lay at the Cruz de Ferro. Whether to remember someone or something or to leave something from their lives behind to allow them move on. I'd not heard of this until the day before we started, just as well as my bag was more than heavy enough already.

    Five miles later we reached the highest point of the Camino at 1,515m. The only issue now was that Molinaseca is at 610m, meaning a 905m decent. Descending is always tougher on feet, ankles, knees than climbing is, particularly on loose stones and small rocks or jagged slabs of rock. This decent had plenty of both. Which made for a slow and tiring last 7 miles. It was a great relief when Molinaseca finally came into view, even though there was still a couple of km of descending to go.

    All this made for a quiet afternoon and evening. A couple of beers, a meal and an early night, ready for the longest remaining walk tomorrow.

    Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca
    Distance: 15.85 miles
    Time: 6hrs 56 mins
    Speed: 2.3 mph    Läs mer

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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    What a spot for a house, amongst vineyards and with the mountains as a backdrop.
    An interesting beer pumpOnly saw this on the way out this morning.The 12th century Knights Templar castle in Ponferada.The biggest Camino pavement sign I've seen.Graffiti style direction arrows now.Something quite clever about this.Ringing my socks out after going through the lake under the bridge.Not seen this type of directional sign before.Unusual gates to a small chapel in Columbrianos.Unusual roundabout statue.Back in wine country and the grapes weren't too bad.A lot of the ground in and around the route was waterlogged with today's heavy rain.Coming into Villafranca, our rest point for the day, finally.A mini roundabout with the Santiago shell.Not too sure what it is, but striking all the same.He was taking no prisoners.What civil engineer though this would be a good solution for run off from the road above!!

    The Last of the Long Walks

    9 oktober 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Then all of a sudden it was 9 days left. Single figures seemed a distant thing for so long but now here we are. I really need to make even more effort to take in every day now as it feels as though we will be in Santiago in no time at all.

    The temperature at 07:00 was 18 degrees compared to yesterday's 7 degrees, however the forecast was for guaranteed rain for most of the day. And the forecast didn't disappoint, it rained solidly until around midday then we had 3 or 4 minute breaks and then it would start again. A couple of places were impassable, particularly under a bridge, but having looked, there was no way round so just had to walk through it. Then had to take my shoes off to pour the water out and ring out my insoles and socks. Once the remaining water warmed up my feet felt quite cosy.

    Fortunately today was relatively flat but we still didn't get into the hotel until 14:45. After yesterday's exploits and a 20 mile walk today we were both feeling quite tired. We'd also got in too late for lunch, most places close at 15:30, so had to wait until 18:30 when the odd restaurant reopened. A lot of restaurants in less touristy areas of Spain don't even open until around 20:30 for dinner. I was hoping to be in bed for that time.

    One observation we've made is that on the days when the weather is terrible you seem to see far fewer people walking. Some people do take transport over several stages. Whether that's for injury or illness, time constraints or just wanting to only walk through the more interesting areas. So a good day to do that would definitely be on days like today.

    Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzo
    Distance: 20.29 miles
    Time: 7hrs 25 mins
    Speed: 2.7 mph    Läs mer

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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    Another early start.
    One way of drying the clothes that didn't dry overnight after yesterday's soaking.Not a deserted village but give it another 30 years.We walked along this road for a good few hours with regular diversions through little villages.Someone is going to be eating a lot of soup this winter.Though it was dry, there were waves of mist during the morning.How long would it take to get one road through planning in the UK, two is just taking the .....Now that is what a rear rack should be used for.The river did look swollen after yesterday's rain, this was an overflow area.Church with graves attached.The hills we were about to clamber up for the next couple of hours.Suppose there are worse jobs on a sunny day.Was lovely to finally see our accommodation for tonight.

    A Steep Old Climb

    10 oktober 2024, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    I slept really well last night, a combination of a very nice bed in the parador we stayed in and the exertions of the last couple of days meant a very sound night's sleep.

    Today's walk was a slight incline for 13 miles and then a 3.5 mile steep climb, up 450m. The initial 13 miles was quite straight forward but then came the climb. The first half averaged around 20% for one kilometre, our average speed dropped from 3mph to well below 2mph but were just glad to get through it. The 2nd half eased to around 10%, though we were more than happy to finally reach our accommodation.

    Laguna, at 1,150m, has a resident population of 20 people, the only business is the hostel where we stayed. Restaurant, bar and accommodation, they have everything sown up. Though at €3,30 for a large beer, and €14 for a 3 course meal with half a bottle of wine, they weren't trying to fleece the punters.

    Around 7pm we went to the bar for quick drink only to meet an Irish guy and a Canadian who I'd chatted to as we left Villafranca this morning. Then Matt joined us, a guy we'd met on our second day, and before you knew it they were mopping the floors and chucking us out at 21:30. A late night by pilgrim standards!

    Villafranca to Laguna de Castilla
    Distance: 16.64 miles
    Time: 6hrs 5mins
    Speed: 2.7 mph    Läs mer

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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    This one was keeping guard for the others.
    Rather faded but this was the 161km to go sign, 100 miles in old money.Sunrise one minuteSunrise five mins later.The point at which we left Castilla y Leon and entered GaliciaSunrise on the other side of the ridge.The views today were pretty special, though today was the last of the high ground over 1,000m.One of the smallest church I've seen so far.Many of the villages today were nothing more than 2 or 3 farmyards and a handful of houses.The path passed straight through a farmyard, cows one side and tractors the other.Looks like they are trying to flatten the terrain.Cows have right of way.How old is that tree!!No idea why this is sat on a wall outside our accommodation.These are family graves, each slab has two rings on it to lift it to get the next person in.

    A Day of Ups and Downs

    11 oktober 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Carol didn't feel at all well this morning so I set off on my own to get today's walk out of the way as quickly as possible so I could spend more time with her at today's destination.

    For the first mile this morning the trail was earth and random stones but then suddenly it turned to a well made, level, small gravel path and continued to be so for the rest of the day. Was only later it dawned on me that this started as I crossed into Galicia. Fingers crossed this continues to be the case all the way to Santiago.

    The terrain in the guide book beyond O'Cibriero showed a gentle rise and fall for 6 miles but it was anything but. The road seemed to do that but the path dug into the hillsides did anything but, it was literally up and down for that whole distance. Yesterday's big final climb was 450m but today I did 486m of climbing (along with 977m of decending) that wasn't even supposed to be there.

    The forecast had been for rain this morning but the mountains seemed to have a different idea, thankfully. It didn't start raining until a couple of hours after I got in and was having lunch. Though it was raining so hard when we finish and were about to leave that we had to stop and have a beer.

    Today's accommodation had a large communal room on the ground floor, with drinks fridge and honest box and a pellet woodburner in the corner. So rather than going back out we spent the late afternoon and evening in there by the fire, with a couple of drinks and for a while chatting to an Irish couple who had lived in the States for the last 35 years. He was a retired Anglican vicar with some interesting stories about running a parish in Belfast during the troubles. Not the sort of person I'd normally bump into in Leytonstone.

    Laguna de Castilla to Triacastela
    Distance: 14.56 miles
    Time: 4hrs 3 mins
    Speed: 3.6 mph    Läs mer

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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    A rest stop along the way.
    It had rain a lot during the night, the cushions must have been soddenThis area isn't green for nothing, they certainly get more than their fair share of rain.Those are an impressive set of horns.We walked along a lot of wooden trails today.The first black and white cows we've seen, but the smell nearly made your eyes water.A typical village that we walked through today.One of many derelict houses you pass through right in the middle of most villages.Our first view of Sarria a couple of miles away.Now they are talking my language, not too sure on the camping bit though.The attractive but noisy weir outside our balcony.Two hours before and two hours after it was raining, have to make the most of the sun when it's out.

    Green and Hilly

    12 oktober 2024, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    The forecast reversed itself again today, it was supposed to be dry but we had on and off light showers for the first 7 miles. Though somehow it didn't seem to matter as we walked through verdant rolling countryside, some quite steeply rolling, all morning. We'd even got partly accustomed to the very pungent farmyard aromas.

    We'd been told by numerous people who had done it before that beyond Sarria it was going to get very busy. As the minimum distance you have to do is a 100km to get your Compostela (pilgrimage certificate). So maybe it was that and the beautiful countryside and the shorter distance and how so quiet it was at times that I found myself more than ever trying to take it all in and savour every moment.

    We were able to get into our room as soon as we arrived and I was showered and on the balcony, over looking an attractive, but rather noisy weir on the river Sarria by 12:30.

    We then headed out for lunch and bumped into 6 people we had met over the course of the trip, it can sometimes be a very small world on the Camino. We had lunch with 4 of them and were later joined by a fifth and carried on with a couple of drinks. As we left I wondered what we were going to do for the rest of the afternoon only to realise it was now 18:00, I still can't understand how the time flew by like that.

    Triacastela to Sarria
    Distance: 11.05 miles
    Time: 4hrs 9 mins
    Speed: 2.7 miles    Läs mer

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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    Remnants of a castle.
    A very popular photo stop.Along the same walk.The Riverside walk where it hotel is located, not to confused with Havana.It hasn't stopped raining that long ago so still quiet.A mosaic pavement Camino sign.That's why I've taken so many pictures of cows.Mosaic of the towns coat of arms.The prison until 1950.I know the feeling.

    The Final Rest Day

    13 oktober 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Our final day off before Santiago. This is the first of the 4 days rest days were I've I actually thought that I'd have preferred to continue walking today. Especially as I was fully awake before 7am. Though all the accommodation was book before we left so I'm forced to put my feet up, eat and drink and long for being back on the road!

    Sarria's claim to fame is being the most popular starting point of all the Camino routes, with about a third of all people starting here. Given it's only about 71 miles to Santiago I can understand why.

    We headed out around 11 am to have a look around the rest of the old town that we didn't get to see yesterday. Went to the pilgrim's blessing at 12pm at the Santa Marina church, then on for some lunch.

    There we got chatting to a guy who I'd heard of 5 days ago. He was walking down a steep section of smooth rock when he slipped and banged his head, blood everywhere and he was helicoptered out to hospital. He was only kept in overnight so nothing too serious and is back walking but picking and choosing which days he does. He is hoping to walk all the way to Santiago now, but will see how it goes.    Läs mer

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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    The mist sitting on the lower ground really set off the sunrise.
    Never noticed the bike during the daylight.A much busier morning after Sarria.A guy with his little stall selling badges and stamps.Very rolling today.The final 100km.A flashier sign saying the same thing.I've seen a few of these but don't know what they are.Bit of a dodgy descent near the end of today's walk.No idea what the liberty bell is but gave it a ring anyway.The biggest river we've crossed on the whole trip, a nearby reservoir had something to do with that.Of course we had to go up the stairsGalicia has it's own dialect, so something about stars I think.No explanation necessary.Ordered Cuban rice, got rice with some tomato sauce and two fried eggs, tasted better than it lookedA flag of Celtic nations.A very different church from all the ones we've seen so far. A 12th century church and fortress.Unusual colour and pattern in the sky.

    A Large Influx

    14 oktober 2024, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    This is the final push, the last 5 days, that have come round remarkably quickly. Seems hard to believe we started over a month ago. The routine has become a way of life I can see how some people just carry on with it.

    During our time in Sarria the town didn't really seem as busy as I was expecting. However, leaving today was a different story. We set off around 7:30 and although still dark a lot of people had the same idea. There were many more groups of people today and over the first couple of miles it did feel like a procession of head torches, rather like the photos you see of people queuing to make the final ascent of Everest. However, by 4 or 5 miles things had thinned out and it started to feel more like the previous days.

    We witnessed what might be our last beautiful, misty sunrise this morning as the forecast is for rain for the rest of the week, so we really made sure we took it all in.

    Today's finish town Portomarin was moved to it's current location in the 1960s to make way for a reservoir, including it's 12th century church which doubled as a castle with 4 watch towers. The town was very busy this evening, as I'm sure it is every evening for around 7 to 8 months of the year.

    Sarria to Portomarin
    Distance: 14.43
    Time: 5hrs 22 mins
    Speed: 2.7 mph    Läs mer

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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    One at a time and you eventually get there.
    Felt like a bit of a procession again this morning.Was misty again early on.The sun was trying it's best to break through.It eventually cleared.Must have been about 35 kids on a sort of school trip doing the walk from Sarria.Those cows looked like they were eyeing up the squashes.A rather rustic rest area.One of the towns directional signs.The towns coat of arms.

    Dodged the Rain

    15 oktober 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    It's only taken four weeks but I've finally stopped looking at my watch, thinking about the pace we are doing, how far we have gone, how far there is to go, what time we are going to get in. Well almost! Santiago has always felt so far away and I've needed smaller challenges to actually focus on. Now it's less than 50 miles away which ordinarily would feel like a very long way away but after the last month that feels like it's around the corner.

    There is definitely more of a buzz since Sarria, there are so many more people on the road including groups of school kids. The towns in the evening are also really busy, not quite a party atmosphere but so much more lively.

    With it being a 5 day walk you do see some people who are less prepared, like walking in the dark using their phones to light the way or just walking behind people with head torches until it's light enough to see where they are going.

    There are organised tours that drive people part of the way each day to let them walk a shorter distance. It's really good that there is something for everyone who wants to experience an element of the Camino even if the feel they can't walk too much of it.

    Today was one of those lucky days where we got in just before the rain came down. That's two good days on the trot so definitely expecting a soaking tomorrow.

    Portomarin to Palas de Rei
    Distance: 15.61 miles
    Time: 5 hrs 24 mins
    Speed: 2.9mph    Läs mer

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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    Over the final bridge and just ahead of the menacing looking cloud.
    The heavy overnight and lighter morning rain made parts of the trail a little muddy.I'm starting to feel as old as this guy.Melde is apparently famous for octopus restaurants.Thank goodness for the large stepping stones.Home for the night and about time too!Only the 3rd Camino dog I've seen, though I had the feeling he hasn't come all the way.These have been all over Galicia and I still haven't worked out what they are.Even coke vending machines are getting in on the act.Our room for tonight was the first stable on the left.There was more water on some of the paths than the under the bridges.

    Ahead of the Crowd

    16 oktober 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    It was raining as we set out this morning, which did have one benefit. It seems that the new recruits weren't too keen on walking in the rain and the dark which meant no procession this morning, we were ahead of the crowd, which did feel nice.

    The signage has been really good on the whole route but is at a different level since we entered Galicia. There are concrete directional and distance markers, down to the last metre, at every turn. Every path and trail has had money spent on it. With a large influx of people starting in Sarria and now with other routes joining this route or going straight into Santiago they have invested a good sum of the revenue that that brings in on maintaining the route. The one thing it doesn't have much of that the rest of the route did are the murals.

    We walked a good few miles towards the end of the today's walk with an American couple we keep bumping into. We must have been the first people to check in today as we were offered the choice of rooms, so took the one double bed the place had. The vast majority of beds have been singles, the only problem we later found with the double was it had one long pillow we had to share. I'm thinking there's going to be a lot of both of us pulling backwards and forwards on this all night.. Perhaps we'll stick to single beds in hostels in the future.

    Palas de Rei to Ribadiso
    Distance: 16.58
    Time: 6 hrs 4mins
    Speed: 2.9 mph    Läs mer

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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    Thanks to Roxanne I now know it's a Horreo, traditionally used to store grain, vegetables and corn.
    The first town this morning 2 miles up the road and street lights almost every step of the way.The wisdom wall - motivational snippets, 'one foot in front of the other' is all the wisdom you needNot quite 10 and not quite green, but still reminded me of the song.Been quite all morning then all of a sudden.I'm thinking very much the same for my shoes once I'm done.It looks old and the Roman numerals give it that feel, but I think it says 1999.Was surprised to see the huge shell design behind the alter.

    The Penultimate Day of Walking

    17 oktober 2024, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    The last 26 miles to go and two days to do them. I did suggest having just one long walk and banging it all out today, but Carol wasn't having any of it. I thought it would have been really nice to have walked into Santiago late this afternoon pretty much on our own and really have the chance to take it all in. Rather than stuck in the middle of a noisy procession tomorrow.

    We had set off at 07:20 to try and cover the two miles to Arzua, a proper town, and get through there before most people got on the road, which we managed to do. However, we didn't take into account the people who get transported for parts of the route and walk certain sections, as about 3hrs in it felt crowded all of a sudden. It turned out to be the kids we had seen on the trail a couple of days ago. Apparently there are about 70 thirteen/fourteen year olds from Madrid. They were still firmly tucked up in bed when we left this morning, as they stayed in the same hostel as we did last night and were still banging about upstairs at gone midnight.

    Another lucky day with the weather, we somehow managed to avoid the rain and got in before a short but heavy shower in the afternoon.

    Today's finish town was little more than a collection of various accommodations and cafes, restaurants and bars, to accommodate people from 3 different Camino routes, Frances, Primativo and Norte. So we had a relaxing afternoon and evening in preparation for a very early start tomorrow.

    Ribadiso to OPedrouzo
    Distance: 13:48 miles
    Time: 4hrs 48mins
    Speed: 2.9 mph    Läs mer

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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    The final 10km out of 779km.
    Just in case you are doing your pilgrimage on horseback, if so, the minimum distance is 200km.A misty and then rainy old morning.There have been a number of protests recently against unchecked tourism across the whole of Spain.A Knights Templar tasked with protecting pilgrims along the routeOn arriving at the outskirts of the city.The main alter in the cathedral.Sometimes nothing is the best thing in the world.As I spoke to the bloke on the right and I thought he looked like a fat Aaron Lennon, I was right!We kept bumping into this couple all along the route.By the end of the night I could have definitely done with a least one beer less, but at the time....These are the stamps we got each day to prove we covered the route.This is the Compostela, my Latin isn't great but I assume it says we completed the pilgrimage.This is the certificate of distance walked.

    The Last Walk

    18 oktober 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The compromise for not walking straight to Santiago yesterday was that we would leave early, very early today. So we were out of the accommodation at around 05:45, expecting a peaceful final walk.

    No sooner had we started walking when behind us in the distance we could hear a lot of loud, excited chatter, which got closer and closer over the first mile or so to the point where we just stopped to let them by. The group was around 35 teenagers, with the rear guard playing music through a speaker. Sounded like they were going to a Taylor Swift concert rather than Santiago.

    However, the rest of the walk, mainly in the dark, as sunrise today was 08:51, was peaceful and what we expected it to be. By this time it was raining lightly, which didn't really matter and in some ways fittingly came full circle, as it rained for 5.5hrs on our first day.

    Walking into the cathedral square at 10:10 was very satisfying but before we could really take it all in and get any sense of what our emotions were we started bumping into person after person that we'd got to know along the way, who themselves had got in the day before. Which was really lovely, but in some ways that moment of arrival was lost.

    So then after dropping off the bags we went to the cathedral for the midday mass, which was standing room only by the start. Then onto collect our Compostela, certificate of completing the pilgrimage and via bumping into numerous other people went on for lunch.

    Our fate was sealed when at about 4pm we bumped into the two Aussie women we had dinner with in Roncesvalles, on the night of our first walk. They were sat at a bar with a father and son who had travelled with them most of the way. After a few beers two more couples joined us and after a few more beers we went for a meal and after probably at least one beer too many we wobbled our way back to the hotel.

    O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela
    Distance: 12.21 miles
    Time: 4hrs 15mins
    Speed: 2.8 mph    Läs mer

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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    The hall had a lovely atmosphere and good food.
    A snippet of one of the cathedral's tower.The colonnade was great for keeping out of the rain.One of the fish halls.Octopus is very popular in the areas we've walked through.Had a couple of drinks in this nice little bar.I prefer wine in my wine bottle.

    A Day in Santiago

    19 oktober 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    First thing to do this morning was to have our final weigh in at a nearby chemist. Seems a thing here that they have weighing scales at most pharmacies, that provide you a printout with weight, height and BMI, all for 20 cents. So in the last 2 weeks I've lost another 4.4lbs and Carol has lost another 6.5lbs. They should add the Camino as a weight loss treatment on the NHS.

    Then it was off to have a good look around Santiago, despite it raining more on than off. We visited the crypt in the cathedral to see the casket which is said to contain the bones of Saint James.

    From there we went to the indoor market, made up of several halls each containing fish or meat and with fruit and veg on the outside. One of the halls was dedicated to a number of cafes specialising in seafood. So lunch comprised of grilled sardines, steamed mussels and a beer. Which tasted fine despite yesterday's excesses.

    The afternoon was spent looking around jewellery shops for a gift for Carol's birthday tomorrow. She bought what she wanted and my job is to wrap it for tomorrow!

    We then had a quiet evening, a couple of drinks in a trendy bar, a meal and an earlyish night. Just what was needed after yesterday.    Läs mer

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  • Bron PlaskowskiResenärEl Camino de Santiago
    The route.
    The church at MuxiaA wet and misty morning at Muros.The beach at Muros.The waterfall on the Rio AzaroThe lighthouse at Finesterra.The harbour at Finesterra.I thought gnomes were a UK thing.The inside of the church of Our Lady of the Boats at Muxia.The split stones at Muxia.The lighthouse at Muxia.The Ponte Maceira, the base of the bridge dates back to Roman times, 2nd century.Drinks with Matt.The final nightcap.A birthday boogie.

    The Last Day

    20 oktober 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    This is the final day of our trip, 42 days since we set off for Biarritz and today was the first day I struggled to get out of bed. Two days off on the trot is already making me lazy.

    My one regret as the trip went on was not including the walk from Santiago on to Finesterra (literally, lands end), on the Atlantic coast. 4 days walk away. Though that has been tempered a little by the fact it has and will be raining for what would have been those additional days.

    So instead today, on Carol's birthday, we've taken a coach trip out to Finesterra and the surrounding areas. The first time I've been anywhere other than on my own two feet for the last 39 days. At Finesterra we bumped into the Irish couple we'd spent the evening with in Triacastela, doing the same thing but on a different tour. The highlight of the day was Muxia, which had a church dedicated to sailors, a lighthouse and large man made standing stones, all with the backdrop of heavy white water as the sea crashed onto the rocks.

    We got back into Santiago around 17:40, just in time to catch the Liverpool v Chelsea game and were joined by Matt, the guy we met on the second day who was really struggling with blisters. So we all had a couple of birthday drinks and Carol and I went on for a meal. Then via a bit of a boogie in the cathedral square we had a final nightcap and then back to the hotel.

    So we walked for 33 days with 4 rest days and covered 484 miles, took a handful of wrong turns but never by more than a 100 yards. Across the route, but particularly in Galicia the signage was fantastic.    Läs mer

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    Resans slut
    18 oktober 2024
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