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It Started As A 2 Week Cruise
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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    Says it all, with a few letters missing.
    1Never seen an 8 wheel bus before, I know I must get out more.Semi sleeper double deck bus, wide comfy seats that recline about 45 degrees and have leg rests too.Rain over the last few days must have swollen the river and dragged sand and debris across the road.Just needs to point it in the right direction and we'll be ready for take off.This is the wet season and barely a trickle in the river bed.Santiago's municipal theatre.A lot of 60s & 70s architecture in the shopping district but very little newer.Mercado Torso de Molina, must have looked so futuristic when it was built in the 70s.The church of Niño Jesús de Praga, with its interesting spire.Pushing a large pan of bubbling hot oil in a shopping trolley, down the street, as you do!Some lovely ornate architecture in the shopping district.An area built in the early 20th century, in the style of New York architecture of the time.A little outdoor bar where we had a Chilean pisco sour.La Casa De La Moneda, the presidential palace.Now that is a flag, in the gardens outside the presidential palace.Not sure what sort of trouble they were expecting, but they looked ready for it.

    Back Down To Sea Level

    14 февраля, Чили ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    This morning was our last coach trip, only 90 minutes back up to Calama, then a taxi to the airport for the plane to Santiago. We haven't flown for a week, starting to get withdrawal symptoms.

    All our paperwork said it was a 13:40 flight so we arranged our travel on that basis. However, when we got there it was a 12:40 flight, we couldn't get our heads round that one at all. Just grateful that we usually get to the airport in plenty of time in case of any eventualities and this was certainly one of thise.

    Uber is illegal in Chile, yet it somehow still operates in the same way as in other countries. If caught by the police the driver would have his car confiscated. So in Santiago, one person has to ride in the front seat. If stopped I was the driver's uncle!

    More mundanities ensured after check in, finding a laundry. With clothes dropped off for pick up tomorrow, we walked around the busy shopping area. A mix of older buildings and newer ones from the sixties and seventies.

    We had some dinner, a sort of cottage pie with a crunchy topping that had lots of sugar on it, way too sweet for me. As we ate we watched street vendors who looked like meerkats on the look out for the authorities and once spotted they were off like a shot, only to return once the coast was clear. Reminded me of Del Boy with his suitcase down Peckham market.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    A glimpse of the devil.
    Their very own BT tower.The reverse side of the presidential palace.Washed, neatly folded and bagged, best laundry service yet.Reminded me of a face.The outside of the museum and tearoom.The staff all wore late Victorian dress.Empanadas and lemonade, a few shots of pisco wouldn't have gone amiss in the lemonade.The faded grandeur reminded me of Havana.Was all very genteel, not normally me.The street we are staying on.A side street in the area we are staying in. Unfortunately there is a lot of tagging.Another building in the street we are staying inLovely shaded walkway to keep the heat of the afternoon sun off.Mature trees and a lily pad covered lake.You can keep the glasses in the box, unfortunately I dropped both! But managed to get replacementsThe grapes were tiny but very sweet.Only their very expensive wines are kept in the original cellars.The cheeses went really well with the wine.

    A Pleasant Afternoon Sipping Wine

    15 февраля, Чили ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Got some extra steps in this morning as halfway to collecting the washing we remembered we hadn't brought the receipt.

    We returned via the back roads and as I stopped to take a picture of an interesting old building a guy who'd just parked his car told us that there was a museum and a tea room within the building and it opened in about 30 mins. It soundsed interesting so after dropping the washing off we returned, to find him working there. He did a very good job of selling it.

    In the afternoon we went to the Concha y Toro winery, about an hour's drive from Santiago, which happens to be the name of the street we are staying in. In addition to the winery he also bought a very large piece of land in Santiago, which he developed into what is now the Barrio Brazil.

    One of the wines they produce is Casillero del Diablo, the devils locker. The story is that people were stealing wine from the cellars so the owner let it be known that the devil lived in the cellars and apparently that stopped the thefts. Obviously we know that is not true as the devil lives in the mine at Potosi, I even lit his fag for him.

    The wine's emblem is a red devil, so it seemed fitting that they did a commercial deal in the UK with Manchester Utd. No doubt this Chilean wine has more than contributed it's fair share to Fergie's red nose.

    The gardens, like most wineries I've been to were immaculate and the first tastings were done outdoors in the shade of some huge trees. The second tasting was indoors with paired cheeses, 7 tastings in total by the end which was enough to get everyone in the group chatting.

    Whilst chatting we met an English couple in their late 20s who were part way through their travels, which was going to take them one year to complete. Makes our trip seem rather lightweight, I'm going to have to up my game!    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    Although a domestic flight, it had its own dedicated migration lane.
    Our arrival in Easter Island.A tuna cerviche empanada, was very nice but not really an empanada.My new best mate, though he never got a round in all day.The fried chicken is very fresh in this bar.The island parliament.We went for a walk and found ourselves at the bottom of the runway, the plane we came on leaving.You can't get a table much closer to the shore.A little harbour.No idea what this is.A little BBQ on the beach.At first it looked like random local symbols, then I noticed a bank that the first one is Santander.You can only join the locals and slow down a bit.The sun going down but people still in the water.

    Easter Island, Rapa Nui, Isla de Pascua

    16 февраля, Чили ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    Whatever you call it, it is the remotest permanently inhabited place in the world. Almost a five hour flight from Santiago, with the nearest inhabited place to here being Pitcairn Island, just under 2,000km away.

    We landed at 11am and were greeted at the small airport by the owner of our accommodation. Who presented us with a lei, a flower garland placed over you head, the flowers had a really intense smell, it was a lovely welcome. She then took us on a tour of the main street explaining where everything was and a little about the culture. Then a circuit around the beach and finally to the accommodation. Which if we'd have driven in a straight line would have taken less than 10 minutes. Though at this time of the year there are only two flights a day so being close to the airport isn't too much of a problem at all.

    We are staying in the only town on the island, where about 90% of the population, which is just under 8,000 people live.. The first thing that strikes you is how green and lush it is with many large, colourful flowering bushes almost everywhere. The second thing that strikes you almost immediately after the first, is the humidity, this is a tropical island after all.

    We spent the afternoon having some lunch and then exploring the area with frequent pitstops to counter the afternoon heat, 29 degrees, and the humidity. By 5pm we had to go back for a lay down. An hour's a nap in the hammock, dinner, a stroll and we were ready for bed.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    These moais are half buried in the ground still at the quarry.
    Moai statues at Anakena, the headress came from a different quarry and was fitted on site.The beach behind the moais at Anakena. Most settlements were by the sea.The 16th moai, though I think I've got a smaller nose.This poor fella got so close but broke just short of the platform.Two moais that didn't make it out of the rock face.More moais that never left the quarry.The only maoi ever found that was in a kneeling position and looking to the sky.Tongariki from the quarry, the biggest groupings and largest moais are at sites nearest the quarry.This is the material they are made from, compacted ash and stone.They said bring snacks, the only healthy thing about these biscuits is the packaging is recyclable.A reconstruction of the type of place that members of the higher echelons of society would live in.Amazingly this was a hen house, chickens and eggs were more ceremonial than for everyday use.All animals on the island are introduced, including up to 60,000 sheep during the 1800s.Lots of very well fed stay dogs in town, some are quite happy to sit with you for a stroke.At first I was disappointed I couldn't see the sun setting, but this is pretty dramatic.

    The Moai Statues

    17 февраля, Чили ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Today was the first day of a two day tour around the island. Time appears to be quite a fluid concept on the island as we were given a pick up time between 9:30 and 10:30 and amazingly we were picked up on time.

    For a pretty small island it once had the longest runway in the whole of South America when it was extended in 1978 to two miles long. The works were paid for by NASA as part of the space shuttle programme, to provide for an alternative landing option should there be issues when returning from space.

    Today's tour visited six of the main sites around the island relating to the moai, the carved stone figures placed on platforms on top of the remains of high ranking members of the island's society. Rather than volcanic rock the figures are carved from a softer material made up of compacted volcanic ash, small stones and larger rocks. This made them easier to carve but also more delicate. The greatest failure rate came not form the carving process but from actually moving them to site. The largest Moai to make it to site was 80 tonnes, where a further 20 tonne headress was put on. Though there are several theories it is not known how they were moved.

    One theory was that they had extra mass on the front and back and using ropes teams of people were able walk them forward in a rocking motion a bit like the Weeble toys. A passed down song in the Rapa Nui language talks of the moais walking from the quarry to their platforms.

    They were made roughly between 1,200 and 1,500. Tribal wars on the island meant by the 1,800s all of the structures had been pushed over as acts of aggression or revenge. Today 288 have been reconstructed, some 400 never made it out of the quarry and are in there in various state of completion and almost 100 can be found laying around the island having been broken on their way to site.

    The most famous site is Tongariki with its 15 moais on a platform with their backs to the sea. Moais always faced the settlement that they came from. So they would be looking over their descendants. In 1960 this site was hit by a tsunami and all the statues were washed several hundred metres in land. A private Japanese company funded it's restoration.

    Apparently, funding has never really been an issue in the restoration process across the island as many people and companies from around the world have been more than happy to be involved in many of the projects.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    The collapsed volcano at Ranu Kau, the water is 250m down from the top and 18m deep.
    My first thought at seeing these when getting on the minibus today was stormtroopers.The repairs to the necks of four of the seven moais that were broken when they were toppled.Without the moais in view this could be parts of England.A Fred Flintstone style bench press.A natural beehive on the front of the roof of the cave.A tree growing out of a lava tunnel sinkhole.A tiny bit of light at the end of the lava tunnel.It was quite dark in there, we did need the headlights.Exiting the lava tunnel.There are quite a lot of horses on the island even though they served no real practical purpose.Through the rain the furthest island is Rapa Nui, the destination for the birdman competition.An opened example of the accommodation that birdman competitors and their tribe members would use.The birdman symbol, the head of a bird on the body of a man.The Easter Island flag.2Could the glass be any bigger?The stray laid down right beside me, put his muzzle under my shoe and went to sleep.

    The Birdmen Of Rapa Nui

    18 февраля, Чили ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Getting into the minibus this morning we were surprised to see helmets with torches, I'd had more than my fair share of that at the Potosi mine in Bolivia. It turned out we were going down a lava tunnel, though it was only 250m long and we only had to duck a couple of times. Getting in and out was probably the hardest bit, though itwasn't really too difficult at all.

    We were told that only locals could buy and sell land on the island. Which according to the guide was a good thing or the place would become like another Hawaii. Hawaii is lovely, but I do take his point.

    Our last couple of stops were around the Ranu Kua crater. By this point the rain had set in. Good job we bought some ponchos in Cusco, even though we hadn't actually used them in anger yet.

    The top of the crater was where the Birdman competition, which ran for around 200 years started and finished. In an attempt to stop the waring between tribes, in the mid 1600s it was decided to hold a competition, where the winner, or more usually an older member of the tribe, would be crowned king for the following year. The Birdman competition involved, starting on the top of the crater, at 300m above sea level. Then heading down to the sea including a 100m of cliffs, then swimming to an island, collecting one of the first eggs layed by the Sooty Tern and then a race back to the start. Winning was highly prestigious just surviving was pretty good going.

    Due to the rain the tour finished a little early and we were back by 3pm however, the rain turned torrential shortly after getting back and continued almost non stop until around 7pm. There is something quite comforting about listening to very heavy rain, as long as you're under cover of course.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    The moais at sunrise.
    It was much darker than the photo suggests.The cruise ship was in for two days but didn't really see many passengers in town.Moais were only given eyes for the burial ceremony itself, not sure why this one has eyes.Moais in town that we didn't visit as part of our tour.It seems anything goes in the cemetery, no rules or regulations here.Mural of a Birdman, they are always depicted in this strong and powerful way.It was light and sweet and gooey at the same time.This sums up Easter Island, I can understand why they don't want to be turned into a little Hawaii.A mini pineapple on its own sick, was very sweet, though definitely not big enough!The departure lounge, Easter Island style.

    A Very, Very Long Day

    19 февраля, Чили ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Up at 4:45 this morning to be picked up and taken to watch the sunrise at Tongariki. There were only 5 of us in the minibus and I could understand why at that time of the morning.

    There were already quite a few people there when we arrived. These sunrise things always sound better than they really are and to be honest this really wasn't an exception. It was worth doing but not much more than that.

    We got back to the room around 9am but our flight wasn't until 4pm so spent the morning strolling around town, lunch, then our accommodation owner drove us to the airport and gave us a good luck charm for a safe journey, which was really sweet of her.

    With the two hour time change it was 23:15 by the time we got to our hotel in Santiago. A pretty long day by the time we got to bed at well gone midnight.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    How did they get that camper up there?
    I wouldn't want to have to water all that foliage.The tallest building in Latin America, at 300mHuge new buildings, side by side with original structures.The single track becomes 2 lane at halfway to allow the train in the opposite direction to pass.As if cornering the market in railway journeys wasn't enough he is muscling in on skiing now.The final stop on the cable car.The statue at the top of the Cerro San Cristobal.Looking down from the statue at the top of the hill.Some great views over the city on the way up on the funicular.I loved the lipstick on the memorial stone, says so much and yet only a few know who they are.Watching a bit of Chilean footie while tucking into our chorrilliana.It's much nicer that it actually looks.Who could possibly say this was garish.Bars and restaurants all along this stretch.Inside the yellow pub the upstairs rooms were done out in a sort of bedroom style, quite different.For free you could have your beer flavoured with various ingredients, but all were salty and spicy.Beer cocktails, mango slice, salt round the rim, mango purée and some type of spice in the drink.

    A Change Of Plan

    20 февраля, Чили ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Despite not getting to bed until around 1am, I had the best night's sleep of the whole trip. Though woke up tired as we forced ourselves out for a 5 mile run at around 8:30am so we could get back before breakfast finished.

    Online we found a self service laundry about 20 mins away, but when we got there we were told the queue was about 3 hours long. As there was only one other person in there I wasn't sure how that could be the case but my Spanish isn't good enough to argue the point. Or maybe my Spanish wasn't good enough to understand exactly what she was saying, either way there's always Buenos Aires for washing.

    So instead we spent the afternoon on a hop on, hop off bus tour, including a trip on the funicular taking you upto the summit of Cerro San Cristobal and then a cable car along along the hill to then pick up the bus again. Though we had to go up the funicular again at the end of the day as Carol thought she could get her fridge magnet else where. Only to find nowhere else did them, as Santiago isn't really that touristy a town.

    We finally got off the bus in Belavista, the area where we took the funicular. The place has several streets packed with bars, restaurants, and clubs which we'd never have know about without doing the bus tour.

    For dinner we settled on a place called El Palacio de la Corrilliana. A Corrilliana is a plate of chips covered in another dish, this was our first meal in Chile in San Pedro. It could be a plate of chips covered in a bolognese sauce and grilled cheese, or fish or meat or vegetarian fare. We settled for the chips with a beef stroganoff on top and very nice it was too. We went for a single portion which was enough for both of us. The table of 5 behind went for the large and left with polystyrene cartoons of what they couldn't finish.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    Walking down the stairs I didn't see any of this.
    Floral clock in Vina del Mar.One of 3 moais outside of Easter Island, obviously one of the other two is in the British Museum.Not quite sure on the meaning, if there is one.Made sense to someone to have the front of a tractor stuck to the facade of this building.They must have painted this laying down.Piano steps leading up to a mural of Beethoven.Corrugated iron sheets used to clad the buildings.Colourful but rather abstract.This alpaca is looking longingly at the ripe grapes on the vine.That looks like Jack Nicholson to me.Our view at lunch.I didn't really notice we were in a white shed on the funicular until we saw the other one coming upThe wine tasting table set, our 3rd tasting of the trip and I'm not even that interested in wine!From 7:30 to 12:00 the road runs one way, from 12:00 to 21:00 the other. Then two way from 21:00!!!Managed to watch the Friday night Premier League game tonight in the hotel, a right result!A beefburger, but instead of a bun it was wrapped in a pizza dough. Nice but a little heavy.

    A Day Out To The Coast

    21 февраля, Чили ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Today we went the 70 miles to the coast to visit the cities of Vina del Mar and Valparaiso. Although there isn't a set foundation date for Valparaiso is more or less the same age as Santiago, which was founded 481 years ago.

    The port city is surrounded by hills so the neighbourhoods have expanded up into these areas with steep winding roads. There is a lot of street art and buildings painted in bold, bright colours.

    On the way back to Santiago we stopped off in the Casablanca wine region for the opportunity to do some wine tasting. Well would have been rude not to. It was only a couple of glasses though one of the people on the tour didn't drink so I had her white wine. Well would have been rude not to!

    Due to a large lunch the plan for tonight was a couple of drinks and an early night. However, the drinks turned into food and the early night turned into 11pm. Got a very early start and a busy day tomorrow, one of the highlights of the trip, so hopefully we can last out on the few hours sleep.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    The top banner says 'Boca is it's people' some Premier League owners should remember that.
    After all the time spent at altitude, flat as far as you can see seems strange.No that's how you do a bbq, with a shovel.Not sure what is going to over heat first, fans rammed into an old bus or the bus itself.No sure which is the rarer sight, Carol in a Boca Juniors shirt or Carol drinking a beer.The ground looks the right colour.Only 2 cordons from the ground now.A Falklands flag at the bottom of the top tier, I'm going to respond in Italian if asked anything.At River Plate last year, they sang the same tune, no doubt the words were slightly different.It's any excuse for a bbq in Argentina.

    A Football Day

    22 февраля, Аргентина ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    A pretty early start this morning for our 7am flight to Buenos Aires. We were in Argentina this time last year, so were going to spend the time in neighbouring countries. However, we had a voucher from last year's trip to spend on a sports event and Boca Juniors were playing at home today so we decided to spend a little time in Buenos Aires to watch the game.

    We'd landed and were at the hotel for 10:15 and very luckily they let us check in, before most people check out. First job was to exchange some money. We had checked at the airport, which is always a con but it was interesting to know. For a 100 dollars you would have got 64,000 pesos. We changed the money at a little grocery shop the hotel reception told us about and for 100 dollars we got 119,900. Enough said.

    With cash, well lots of cash, in my pocket it was off to the pub to watch the Arsenal game, which we watched in the Gibraltar. A home from home sort of place with an English landlord, that we'd been in a couple of times when we were here last year. Unfortunately, we didn't play well and lost to West Ham 1-0.

    Then via some lunch in the San Telmo market, it was off to the pick up point for our evening excursion. Which was a Boca Juniors game against Aldosivi. The quality of Argentine football isn't the best as all their good players play abroad, but the fans more than make up for that. Behind the goal to our left in the terraces, there was a band leading the singing. We got to our seats 40 mins before the game and they didn't stop singing until halftime, and then throughout the 2nd half too. They must have been exhausted come the final whistle. Though happy, as Boca scored the winner in the last 10 minutes of the game to win 2-1.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    Plaza Dorrega, part of the Sunday market in San Telmo.The trams are long gone but the tracks add to the atmosphere.That is the smallest ice bucket I've ever seen.Puerto Madero, redeveloped docklands, definitely has the feel of a Canary Wharf.Eclectic and colourful.Pavement cafes and warm weather, what's there not to like.Now there is a blast from the past and only 70p.

    A Relaxed Day

    23 февраля, Аргентина ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Today had a proper lay in until about 9am, had thought of going for a run, but only fleetingly, the rest probably did me more good.

    As it was only just over a mile away we did a recce of where we need to go to catch tomorrow's ferry and then back to the Gibraltar to watch the City v Liverpool game.

    Prices have gone up since we were here last year, though the exchange rate seems to be about the same. I was told that inflation this last year has come down to 118% from the 2023 rate of 211%. I remember in the Gibraltar the cheapest beer last year being about 2,500, today it's 4,000. That's a 60% increase, it almost made me drink less!

    The rest of the afternoon we spent strolling round San Telmo, having the odd refreshment stop and eventually having an early dinner and early night.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    We walked to the port and the sunrise was pretty amazing.
    Boarding the ferry to Montevideo.As a surprise I booked a first class ticket, it was quiet and comfortable, defo the right decision.Could have just done with a gin and tonic, but it was 7:15am when the boat departed.He gets everywhere, there must be a statue of him in each country we've been in.Part of the original city wall built in 1724 and something from the 60s immediately behind it.The fruit and veg market, but it's more of an upmarket eating / drinking venue.I have never seen these before in my life, the sign translates to 'little mates of luck'!!Bundles of bbq wood, with pine cones to add that bathroom fresh smell to your food.Now that is a bottle of Corona, 710ml. That's a full size lemon slice in the top.

    Another Country

    24 февраля, Уругвай ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    This morning we caught the 7:15 ferry to Montevideo, making Uruguay our 7th South American country of the trip. The 130 mile journey took 2hr 30min, on what is advertised as the world's fastest passenger ship, capable of doing 67mph. The two cities are on either side of the River Plate, though by Montevideo it was more like a sea than a river, in an estuary 200km wide.

    We are on a roll, the 2nd hotel on the trot where we were able to check-in really early, 11am today. First job was laundry which had been building up for some time. Then this afternoon we had a city tour booked. It ran in 3 different languages which made it a bit disjointed but we got the gist.

    The best bit though was a recommendation from the guide for somewhere to try a Chivito, a Uruguayan speciality. Which is a thin piece of steak, covered with a slice of ham, then a layer of cheese, a fried egg on top and with a slice of bacon for good measure. Served with a Russian salad, chips, olives and pickled red pepper. I'm not sure it's safe to eat more than one of them in your lifetime, but it did taste really nice.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    The upper tiers have no seat numbers, so must be first come first serve. Hopefully it doesn't rain.
    No chances taken with security, have a job getting over the electric fence above the gates.Shirts worn but Uruguain players in the 1930 and 1950 world cups.A copy of the Jules Rimet trophy.Not sure precast concrete seats would go down too well in the premiership.Moats at each end of the pitch, in case the fans manged to get over the fences.These are cast concrete seats, might need to bring your own cushions.Suarez the flag bearer and Cavani holding the old world cup!Palacio Salvo, a very similar building built by the same architect is in Buenos Aires.A pedestrianised area of the old town, was nice to get away from the traffic.The poor cherubs were a little the worse for wear, but a nice fountain nonetheless.Plaza MatrizRomeo and Juliet?The old town has many interesting old buildings but quite a number are in a poor state of repair.There are some nice beaches along the water front.There was only space on the plate for a couple of chips.This ice bucket ain't big enough for the both of us, to paraphrase Sparks.

    A Stadium With History

    25 февраля, Уругвай ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    The forecast for 7am was 60% chance of rain, instead it was 25 degrees, humid and the sun already felt like it was beating down. The only saving grace was a slight breeze on the sea front as I trudged up and down for 5 miles. I thought I'd cool off in the hotel's indoor pool but that turned out to be nearly the same temperature as the jacuzzi.

    After the included breakfast we walked up to the Estadio Centenario, the stadium that hosted the first world cup final in 1930, that Uruguay won. It was built in 1929 and it doesn't look as though too much has been spent on it in the last 96 years. The national team still play there and have a good record playing at home. The museum had some interesting artifacts from the 1930 and 1950 world cup wins, shirts, boots, medals and a copy of the Jules Rimet trophy.

    We walked there and picked up the washing on the way back, only around 3.5 miles but it was an effort in the heat. In the afternoon we took an Uber to the old town and had a walk around.

    The receptionist in our hotel said the old town was a very interesting place to visit but we should leave before 5pm as it then becomes much quieter and less safe. Well, dangerous in her words, but I put that down to translation. You could see what she meant though, it was a lot grittier than where we are staying. Lots of graffiti, iron bars on windows, beggars and homelessness. One bloke even tried a pharmacy scam on me that I'd previously read about. You did get that sense that once people were off the streets it would have an uncomfortable feel about it.

    We were told that for every person in Uruguay there are 4 cows, so in the evening we thought we would try a steak restaurant, to help them out. The food was lovely but the portions were huge, 350g of meat, that's three quarters of a pound! We took our time and got there eventually, as I also did with my litre of beer.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    A concrete tank once used to ferment grape juice, now they paint the sides to keep the concrete out!
    It's not just in England that every man's house is his castle.A cannon from HMS Agamemnon, one of the ships at Trafalgar, it sank in the River Plate in a storm.One of a couple of boards on the Battle of Trafalgar.The stuffed ship's dog was a bit of a surprise.Part of the 10mm thick hull of the Graf Spee, with a sizeable hole from incoming munitions.One of the smaller side guns from the Graf Spee.A photo from 1985 of the Punta Carretas prison, the year before it's closure.The prison sign replaced with the name of the shopping centre.A photo from within the arch of one of the remaining, repurposed prison buildings.The names of some of the political prisoners who were housed in the jail.Demijohns of sherry left out to mature.The 2022 sparkling wine still maturing. The bottles are turned each day, must be someone's only job.The difference between a wine cork and an uncompressed sparkling wine cork.They should be looking for a new cleaner for these 1979 bottles.It seems most of their customers come from Brazil.Dining and wine tasting within the cellars.Ready for nibbles and our seven tastings.

    Stories Of Naval Battles

    26 февраля, Уругвай ⋅ 🌬 26 °C

    Yesterday I did just over 30,000 steps so a lay in till 8am felt like a fair reward. Especially as I was up till nearly midnight watching Boca Juniors play Alianza Lima, a team from Peru, in the Copa Libertadores. The south American version of the Champions League. They eventually went out on penalties after Cavani (ex Man Utd) missed an open goal from 4 yards out in the last 90 seconds of the game. I doubt he slept well last night.

    This morning we went to the small naval museum about a 15 minute walk from our hotel. I was surprised that there was a section on the 1805 Battle of Trafalgar and it's tactics. Though reading on in my less than basic Spanish, this was an important battle for South American countries. As it 'cut the umbilical cord' between Spain and it's colonies. Within 20 years most of those colonies had achieved independence and Uruguay too, by 1830.

    The museum also had a section on the first sea battle of WW2 between the Graf Spee, a heavily armoured pocket battle ship, which had already sunk 9 supply ships, and three British cruisers. Who despite suffering huge damage managed to force the Graf Spee into harbour in Montevideo for repairs. Whilst there, through a campaign of misinformation the British convinced the German capitan that there was now a large group of British warships waiting for him to leave harbour. So in order not to let the ship fall into enemy hands and to save his crew, he left harbour and scuttled the ship in the River Plate, much to Hitler's annoyance.

    From there we walked to a shopping centre that was built within the grounds of a prison. The prison was built in 1896 and was used to house political prisoners from as early as the 1920s. Several repurposed buildings still survive today as a reminder to what was here before.

    Then in the afternoon off to one of Carol's favourite excursions, a trip to a winery, our 5th one on these travels. Very nice it was too, we had a proper tour of the winery, had all the processes explained and then got to sample the goods. Well I suppose it was a bit of quid pro quo for this morning's naval museum!    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    Well these aren't the sorts of carnival costumes I was expecting, far too much material!!
    A really well organised Uber pick up zone at the airport.Not sure I could have got my suitcase on that bike.The schedule for the Rio carnival in the Sambadrome.Your own portable beer cooler.Was a nice meal but didn't understand the crisps with it though.

    Full Circle To Rio

    27 февраля, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    So after travelling around seven South American countries over the last 40 days, today we flew back to Rio for the carnival. The original plan was to go home after the cruise. Then the idea of staying in South America until the carnival, started to take shape. What started as a two week cruise would turn into a 10 week trip, what with our time in South Africa as well.

    Montevideo is the most expensive place we have been to on this trip, especially for food and drink, our main expenditure! Though the naval museum was only a pound to get into so there are some swings to the roundabouts. However, I really enjoyed our time here, where we stayed felt safe, we were close to the beach for walks and runs, lots of bars and restaurants and the taxi drivers are very chatty if they hear you can speak a couple of words in Spanish, that was hard work.

    At the airport in Rio we were diverted into the priority lane for immigration, we certainly didn't complain but maybe this trip has aged us more than we thought. The whole of the one hour taxi ride to the hotel was through rough looking areas, however as we pulled up at the hotel, in the dark, we were still in a well rough looking area. Hopefully it will look better in the morning.

    We then jumped straight into another taxi to go and collect our carnival tickets from a hotel in Copacabana. Where we took the opportunity to meet up with a Brazilian guy who we met on the Camino last October. He works for a different events company doing carnival related tickets and trips, so we were able to get plenty of tips from him for our stay.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    Not the sort of place you'd expect to see a beer with that name but it was ice cold.
    Carol forgot it was supposed to be her arms that she should have used to pull up with.Nearly there.There you go, one full pull up.The sand is so hot they need to cool it to walk on.This was the company that the guy we met on the Camino works for.This sort of beach badminton with a tennis ball is very popular.These aircraft dragging banners were buzzing round all afternoon.

    A Beach Day (Sort Of)

    28 февраля, Бразилия ⋅ 🌬 30 °C

    Carol's sister, Opal, who left us five weeks ago in Manaus arrived this morning in Rio to join us for the carnival. Which meant we were up earlish as she arrived at the hotel at 8am.

    Carol and Opal have secured places on one of the samba schools performing in the Sambadrome tomorrow evening. So the first task of the day was to go to the travel agency they'd booked it through to find out the final details and exactly where they would be picked up.

    That done by midday, most of the afternoon and early evening was spent in and out of bars along Copacabana, watching people playing hybrid sports on the beach, listening to live music, drinking a few capriahinas and the odd bottle of beer.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    It's only 700m long, but probably long enough with all the dancing.
    Our capriahinas in hand.Arc welding up a step ladder, right above us, no visor, H&S would lock him up.Looks like they just had a delivery.An 18th aqueduct, now used for trains.There was a very loud DJ in this street banging out his stuff.It was pretty busy in the stands.I'm not sure they are really playing those guitars.Didn't look at though they were really sweeping up very much at all.These picked up a little bit more.It was certainly colourful.This was 2:15am, never seen a 24 hour tyre service before.The performers.Firework displays kicked off each parade.

    A Night Of Parades

    1 марта, Бразилия ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We'd booked the hotel for the carnival before we knew exactly how the trip was going to pan out. It turned out we would get here two days earlier than expected. So today we left our hotel in the ropey area for a nicer hotel but still in a fairly ropey area. However, we are getting used to it, it doesn't feel as intimidating as it did a couple of days ago.

    We dropped our bags off at midday and found a local bar for a couple of drinks. Carnival attire seems to be an anything goes sort of vibe. Though a thong and fishnet tights is a popular look.

    This evening we had tickets for the Sambadrome, sector 5 open seating. Though tonight was also the night that Carol and Opal were performing in one of the parades, so they were being picked up and taken to join the school they were parading with.

    I left the hotel just before 7pm and walked. I was in and had secured a spot right at the front of the enclosure by 7:30pm. Tonight started at 9pm and there were 8 different schools performing, with it scheduled to finish at 3:30am. Though we had been told timings were flexible! Fortunately, they were in the second parade and came through about 10:45pm. By nearly 2am, when we called it a night, the 4th parade had just finished, at that rate the last one wouldn't have finished until 7am. Just as well we left when we did as by the time we got back to the hotel I'd been on my feet for 7.5 hours.

    As I was on my own in the stands I couldn't leave my spot, it was 4.5 hours before Carol and her sister got there after their parade. Even though there was a woman directly behind me selling beer and cold drinks I couldn't take the chance!    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    The inside of the cathedral was like nothing I'd ever seen.
    A sort of breakfast omelette, but no eggs, the outside was powdered tapioca cooked in a pan.A mural of the street itself.They must get through so much it's not worth putting the beer in the shop.A section of the cone shaped churchSao Sabastiao I presume.A mini Christ the Redeemer.The start of Leblon beach.Not sure if the road closure is for the carnival or every Sunday.The channel separating Leblon to the right and Ipanema beaches.A very popular look fishnets and high cut swimsuit or thongs.Fortunately a less popular look!I still had a beer anyway.A mobile party, following the DJ on the bus.

    The Most Amazing Church

    2 марта, Бразилия ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    I had to have a shower when I got in last night, so hot and sticky even at 3am. However, it turned out to be a cool shower as there was no hot water, was quite nice once I was over the shock.

    Didn't get out until after 12pm today, a mix of the late night and having to change rooms because of the hot water issue. The first thing we went to see today was the Escadaria Selaron. Only a 15 minute walk from the hotel. A long flight of stairs that a guy had adorned in bits of old tile, it's one of the main things they push here as a tourist attraction. However, at the time we got there you could hardly see any of it with the number of people on the stairs.

    Not far away and something I'd not heard mention of at all was the Sao Sabastiao municipal cathedral. It turned out to be the most unusual and stunning church I've ever seen and I've seen a few. Like an upside down waffle ice-cream cone with the top quarter chopped off. Inside it was vast and the four floor to ceiling stained glass windows were breathtaking. I can't believe some tatty old steps get way more attention.

    Then onto Leblon one of Rio's posher suburbs, where the beach runs into Ipanema's. So we walked the length and then had dinner in Ipanema. When we got back to the room Carol noticed she had a voicemail from the events guy we met on the Camino. Turned out he had some last minute spare tickets for the Sambadrome this evening. Though by the time she saw the message it was too late. Oh well there is always tomorrow.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    The ghost train.
    The museum we went to see, but was closed due to the carnival.There were four cruise ships in port, those cruises would have been very expensive.Old warehouses opposite the cruise terminal.If it wasn't for the carnival I'm not sure if I'd be walking these sorts of streets.Another pay by weight restaurant, popular in Brazil.I wouldn't want to be that high up on a flimsy podium.A smoking dragon.It was safer to have a beer and wait for sunrise before walking back, that's was my excuse, anyway.The street cleaners popping in for their breakfast.And then the police as well.There are a number of people you see who go round collecting cans and plastic bottles.Breakfast pancake with chocolate and banana, at least I didn't have to make them this year.This was more burlesque than carnival.

    The Longest Day

    3 марта, Бразилия ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Early this morning we were going to go for a run along the beach, but Carol woke up with really sore calves. A delayed reaction to her hour of dancing at the parade 36 hours before. At least I got a lay in.

    We took a taxi to the port area but the museum that we wanted to have a look at was closed, as were most of the roads in the area. Judging by the number of people in the area and what they were wearing, there must have been a bloco, a carnival street party, later in the afternoon. I'd read that there were 243 of these arranged across Rio over the 37 days of carnival festivities. Along with 38 next weekend alone as a final blow out.

    We had tickets for the Sambadrome this evening so around 2pm the plan was to go back to the hotel to rest up for a very late evening. However, just as we got out of the Uber outside the hotel, a table outside the bar next door became available. Those tables are always busy so it would have been rude not to have sat down for a quick one. Well, a quick one that turned into another two or three and then something to eat and then back for a nap at 6pm.

    Tonight in the Sambadrome we were in sector 9 which has allocated seating, what luxury that was in comparison to the first night. However, seating is actually a concrete slab, but even so it was nice to take the weight off your feet in between parades. Only four schools tonight, a 10pm start and they still managed to stretched it out until 3:30am before the last parade started.

    We were told that tonight was the Premier League of schools and they didn't disappoint. I was impressed the first night but this was on a different level, the size and imagination of the floats, their intricacy of the animation, the choreography of dance routines and the sheer number of people. I was told there were between 3,000 and 5,000 people in each school's parade.

    We finally left the venue at 4:30am. There was no way we'd get up for breakfast, so we stopped at the first bar and had a few drinks while the sun came up. Breakfast went down very well, including pancakes as it was now Shrove Tuesday (chocolate and banana). Bed finally came at 8am.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    The hotel pool that we never quite managed to use, probably because we were hardly ever in.
    The entrances to some of the posher lounges.The corporate boxes that we were in tonight.Looks like a deliberate wardrobe malfunction!They should do a programme really to explain the theme and what each segment means.Watching live the colours are vivid and sharp, but in photos at nighttime it seems a blur of colour.Drones used to recreate the sun.

    A Surprise Evening

    4 марта, Бразилия ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We got up at 1pm, only 5 hours sleep but we were worried if we slept longer then we'd struggle to sleep tonight. It did feel as though we should still be going to breakfast though.

    The girls wanted to do some shopping so we took an Uber to Ipanema. Only to find that all the shops were closed apart from chemists and some food shops. So the only thing for it was to go for a chopp, a draught beer.

    Then the events guy messaged to say he had some free tickets if we wanted to go to the Sambadrome again this evening. Had we known we could have started in bed until late afternoon! So we walked round to where he is based and picked up some wristbands for this evening.

    The seats were on the lower level, in his company's box, around 10 rows back. You did feel as though you were much closer to the action and the spectators did seem more excited, more wrapped up in the whole thing. Though being lower you lost some of the perspective and most of the choreography. Swings and roundabouts really, but all in all I think I preferred the higher position, despite having to sit on concrete and the less than luxurious toilets.

    Tonight ran just at late as yesterday, so after getting it at 4:45am, we went for a drink so we could go straight to breakfast. Got to bed earlier this morning by a whole 30 mins, at 7:30am!    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    The headland at the northeast end of Copacabana beach.
    Looking back along the length of the beach.

    Last Full Day In Rio

    5 марта, Бразилия ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    As we headed out today I recall noting that this was the last full day of our trip, but on checking my watch it was already 3pm. It felt like we were working a split shift.

    So we headed down for a last afternoon at Copacabana. A stroll along the beach, a bit of shopping, including a bottle of cachaca for those caipirinhas on a sunny day as a reminder of our time in Brazil.

    We ate at the same restaurant we had on our first night in Rio, the Belmonte. We've become a little addicted to white rice and black beans. Might have to find a local Brazilian restaurant when we get back for our fix.

    We finished off the night in the bar next to the hotel with a round caipirinhas, what else! It has been interesting how much more comfortable we feel in the area around the hotel after 6 days there. Even having walked the 25 mins back from the Sambadrome on 3 occasions.    Читать далее

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  • Bron PlaskowskiIt Started As A 2 Week CruiseПутешественник
    There was a very fine mist but beautiful light at the start of the run.
    Ready and off for their morning ride before 5:30am.There were over 100 people on the water in kayaks and paddle boards for the sunrise on Copacabana.The controls look pretty straightforward, we should have had a go at driving ourselves.Crossing the Los Arcos viaduct, which was originally an 18th century aqueduct.A swathe of building cut into the hillside.The view from near the end of the tram ride.If it wasn't painted it was most likely to have been grafitted.The Sao Sabastiao cathedral from the tram.Just as well it doesn't rain much in Rio.This was 9:15am, seems tourists never sleep.After 5 days of blocco street parties, this street smelt of stale beer and bodily functions.Lapa is a rather rundown area that the old aqueduct cuts through.This street was banged out everyday up until Tuesday.The area under the arches seemed to be a place for homeless people to gather.

    Flying Home

    6 марта, Англия ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    This morning we got up at the same time we were leaving the Sambadrome the last couple of nights. Our last chance to run along the beaches, so we took an Uber at 5am to the far end of Leblon beach. It seems in Rio, that early in the morning, traffic lights are advisory. Our driver stopped at one set of lights until they went green, but only because two other vehicles were blocking his way through.

    We arrived just after 5:15, where about a dozen cyclists were just about to set off for a ride. It was just getting light, was only 23 degrees, and the colours across the water were beautiful. So there was plenty to distract from the effort and our tiredness as we jogged in the cycle lane along Leblon, Ipanema and Copacabana beaches.

    After leaving the Uber with rather sweaty back seats (we did give him a good tip though), a quick shower and breakfast, we headed out to catch the 8am Santa Teresa tram. A scenic 25 minute ride that crosses the 18th century aqueduct and winds it's way uphill through the village to give some nice views back over the city. We also went back to the tiled steps but they were already very busy by 9:15.

    Lunchtime we went for a last couple of drinks in the chopp shop next door to the hotel and then off to the airport. Coming from the airport last Thursday, in rush hour with carnival traffic, took an hour. Today, afternoon traffic with the carnival over, just over 20 minutes. We eventually arrived home just before 4pm on Fri 7th.

    The trip absolutely flew by and we did so many interesting, sometimes challenging and sometimes a little scary things. Though overall for me, Rainbow Mountain was the most memorable trip. The hour drive through the mountains to there was just stunning, the fact that we weren't properly acclimatised to go to 5,000m and also only had 90 mins sleep the night before all added to the challenge. Then finally, when we got there the weather was perfect and the views and colours lived up to all our expectations.

    And so the trip comes to an end arriving home on day 70, after visiting 9 countries and staying in 20 locations. Travelling on 16 flights (with an additional 4 connections), 1 cruise ship, 2 coaches, 1 ferry and 1 taxi and covering 32,185 miles, 9,100 of which was within South America.    Читать далее

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    Окончание поездки
    8 марта 2025 г.