Cape Town, South Africa - Harbor

Various photos from places around the harbor (walking distance from the ship) that were taken over the 3 days we were in Cape Town.
Various photos from places around the harbor (walking distance from the ship) that were taken over the 3 days we were in Cape Town.
Passover Aboard the Oceania Insignia in South Africa
“The Exodus occurs in Everyone, in Every Era, in Every year and even on Every day”.
The reading of the Haggadah this year and telling the story, really did happen in an “eternal present”, as if we ARE there, participating in the story. What a wonderful experience that day was beginning with us learning so much about Freedom and Hope, first-hand from a man that was a political prisoner on Robben Island, where Mandela spent 27 years of his life.
Our seder on-board began with “some trepidation”, as we had never been away from home on Passover and knew the seders and the week of eating would be a challenge. After weeks of prep (including saving up shank bones) with a wonderful team here including: the cruise director, restaurant managers, wait staff, chefs (pastry and others), shoppers, cooks, wine stewards, and the tech staff for the sound system.
Many of us missed our families back home but our Oceania Family at Sea came together to make this a unique and memorable Passover. Here are some of the highlights (see 20 photos and 2 videos):
-Meeting with Staff to discuss the details – so much fun explaining things like charoset (make it mortar-like)
-Shopping in South Africa before our Private Function where we took over an entire side of the Terrace Cafe (open to all, many non-Jews joined us) for 3+ hours
-Haggadah -modified last year’s 80+ page one (had to leave out videos and finger puppets) and get it down to 45 minutes to time with dinner being served
-Every one of the 63 participants paid attention the entire time (it is a riveting story)
-Karen & I sat at the Bride & Grooms Table
-Candles -no fire, hmm, An Orange (ours was green), Elijahs Cup (somehow was total consumed, really)
-They made 25 perfect Seder Plates (yes, I did make a paper template)
-The Fir Kashes (four questions) asked by our “youngest participant”
-Elijah spilled over an entire glass of wine before we even started (and it wasn't Bruce)
-Many readers and subsequent questions, so much fun
-A highlight (see photo) was the sun was setting just as I explained the tradition and as we began to recite the plagues (meaning is up to you)
- Hiding the Afikomen – cruise director hid it on the ship (he decided not to be limited to the dining room) … it was found 19 hours later …no we didn’t wait for dessert. It was ransomed for a “screaming goat” (and socks)
- Did you see the MENU? Even the “connoisseurs” of Jewish food raved about it (the chopped liver, the tzimmes, and Empire Kosher chicken that never had such a good marinade were wonderful)
- The next morning's Matzo Brie (Karen taught the entire staff in the cafe a new recipe)
- A Telling AND Pure love!Leia mais
Mossel Bay is a small farming and fishing town (100,000 pop) at the Southern Cape of South Africa (200 miles from Cape of Good Hope). There are 11 languages in Africa, but most people here speak Afrikaans, Dutch, German, and Indonesian and Flemish. First discovered by Diaz in 1488 and later when trading began it was established by Vasco da Gama reached here in 1497, it is considered the first place that Europeans landed on South African soil. The Khoi-san is the term used for the indigenous peoples of Southern Africa who don’t speak the Bantu language but speak click language. Mossel Bay was named in 1601 by the Dutch when they found a large collection of mussel shells.
Many anthropologists believe that Africa is the Cradle of Humankind, the origin of human life as we know it. We know of the ice age between 200,000 and 170,000 years ago, which meant that Africa then was a desert and totally uninhabitable. Because of the thickness of the ice in Europe and Poles, the sea level was much lower. It is well known that Mossel Bay has the second mildest climate in the world, only a 15-degree difference between high/low, has the greatest number of plant species (10 - 30 times more than anywhere else in the world), and is situated at the Southern most tip of Africa. Excavations of a series of caves at Pinnacle Point since the year 2000 have revealed occupation by middle Stone Age people between 170,000 and 70,000 years ago, where the earliest evidence of the heat treatment of rock to make stone tools and the use of ochre to beautify.
We tendered into this port where we could see some Portuguese influence on stores and street signs. The Garden Route Pilgrimage of Hope takes you across mountains and the Karoo, via the coastal corridor to St Blaise lighthouse in Mossel Bay. We took a tour on this Route that went through the beautiful Outeniqua Mountains, through forests, beaches and around mountain peaks. The Outeniqua ("they who bear honey"), is a mountain range that runs a parallel to the southern coast of South Africa, and forms a continuous range with the Langeberg to the west and the Tsitsikamma Mountains to the east. We saw Chacma baboons, one of the largest of all monkeys. usually living in social groups, called troops, which are composed of multiple adult males, adult females, and their offspring. There are many game reserves with cheetahs, lions and antelopes.
We crossed the Outeniqua Pass (created by blasting through bedrock) and saw great views as we went to Oudtshoom (“Antelopes in The Bush”) which is 1,007’ above sea level and a deep history in the Ostrich-feather boom of 1860-1914 where feathers were provided to many European cities for women’s hats and clothing (see the Cape Town post from the Jewish Museum talking about those in the Ostrich business). The architecture was very elaborate, and we went to a quaint Queens Hotel for tea (and scones for those NOT observing Passover). This little town even has traffic lights (or as they call them, Robots). We returned thru Robinson pass and then to the Town of George (largest city in the South Cape), more inland and desert-like terrain called Karoo (narrow plain between the mountains), an 1800 timbering outpost, now with beautiful homes.
We had a discussion with the tour guide about apartheid in this region and how there is much more tolerance here since apartheid ended as the government does not interfere with their melding cultures. There is a distinction in their minds between the Black from the North, the Colored (from mixed background) in the South, and the White people. In spite of their differences, there is a lot more sharing and working and living together in this region.
An additional and incredible highlight was at the overlook we stopped at to see the view. Here, Christian groups stop and “converse with nature” in the vast openness of the mountains. On this Good Friday, there was a church group (Eagles Nest Ministries International. https://enmi.co.za/) singing Hallelujah and other beautiful hymns in the open air as they connected with God. At the end of their praying, meditating, and singing, one of the leaders took out a “horn” to blow and echoed beautiful notes into nature. Did this look and sound like a shofar? It sure did, even the notes were the same that Jews use. After, his blowing of the shofar, I had to ask and sure enough they call it a shofar too. Coincidence? I don’t think so. We contemplated this interesting event and convergence of customs during the entire way back to the town.Leia mais
See first posting for the comments related to this post. It begins with 2 videos, followed by 20 photos.
Durban is the third most populous city in South Africa with 3.4 million people. A main seaport of South Africa and ethnically diverse area with Zulu, White and Indian/Asian people. Durban has a natural harbor, Durban Harbor, which is the busiest port in South Africa and is the 4th busiest in the Southern Hemisphere. With temperatures year-round of 65-85 degrees, it is a popular place to live. Zulu is the first language spoken in Durban followed by Afrikaans and then English.
We had planned a cultural tour here including the Hare Krishna Temple. Unfortunately, most places were closed, and the tour was changed a few times because it was Easter Sunday. We had our favorite cook, Brian, make us matzo brie which he has mastered! Needless to say we also had lots of chocolate in every form and filling!
Although this area, often referred to as Little India due to the number of people that immigrated here from India, is not Christian, the holiday was celebrated in most places. Some people went to the Marketplaces to walk around but we decided after leaving the ship for a short time to stay aboard, sit in lounge chairs on the promenade deck and catchup on the blog.
This was somewhat successful although we did find plenty of other distractions and people to chat with (between meals), including Dottie (a cruise director we know from our trip last year) who came on board for her transition, taking over for Ray. Ray has been a great cruise director, a straight shooter, funny, interesting, and very helpful with Shabbat and Passover events.
New cruise director, new chef (Farid went on vacation home to France), new matre de (Sasa went home to Serbia and Ana joined us just in time for Passover transition), new waitress (Marina went on vacation home to Serbia), new steward- our 5th room steward due to changes in personnel and new musicians and Entertainment that change often … even the doctor changed. I knew we have been here a long time when we are here longer than the crew!Leia mais
Kamba Kahle (goodbye).
Leaving South Africa After 7 days.
Some advice can not be beat:
"TREAD SOFTLY, BREATHE PEACEFULLY, LAUGH HYSTERICALLY"
NELSON MANDELA
Richard’s Bay is a city in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, located on a lagoon of the Mhlatuze River, which makes it one of the country’s largest harbors and the deepest natural harbor on the African continent. The town was laid out on the shores of the lagoon in 1954 and in 1976 the deep-water harbor opened and a new railway and oil/gas pipeline connecting to Johannesburg was completed. In the 70’s and 80’s a beautiful residential area was developed in Richard’s Bay (see photos). The population of 12 million people is broken down as follows: Whites account for 40% of the population, followed by Black Africans at 36%, Asians/Indians 20% and Colored 4%. Interestingly, 75% of the population is under 34 years old with 4% over 65. Although there are 11 languages, mostly everyone speaks a version that is Click and/or Zulu.
We learned about the people here and how they lived and how the government supported them when they made under $3000/year (sadly not uncommon). Unemployment is high and housing can take 10 years for the average family to get government housing. Although school is free, some children walk 10+ miles to school daily.
We took an adventure of an immersive day of Zulu culture by going to the DumaZulu Village about 1.5 hours away from Richards Bay where everyone including all the surrounding towns was Zulu but depending on the village, there were a wide range of the practices still followed (like all religions). There are over 3 million Zulus.
DumaZuly is the permanent residence of more than 50 tribal traditional people (the largest village of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere), the only Zulu community to be opened for tourists to visit by King Goodwill Zwelithini since 1984. The DumaZulu people invited us into their kraal (village of huts), where we learned and participated in tribal traditions, including basket-weaving, spear-and shield-making, beadwork, pottery-sculpting, sangoma bone throwing (used to diagnose your condition), medicine men (fill in as the local “court”), medicine woman (use trees, leaves, stems and herbs to make potions to cure almost any disease) and tribal dancing. It was so interesting to learn, and their intenseness was infectious. One of the more interesting things we learned was about their respect for ancestors. When you enter a village or a house you bow and thank the ancestors and when you leave you go out a different exit and thank them again. The Zulus speak with their ancestors all the time for advice. Zulu believe they can talk to their ancestors and have specific places set aside where they can communicate.
When people are greeted, you hear: “Gentlemen & Ladies” which sounds awkward from what we are used to hearing but in this culture men always “lead”. We learned a lot about families, marriage and love and life. The music, dancing, stick fighting and rituals we saw were all about family life. Many families have men with 6 wives and therefore many children and sadly are very poor. The marriage process takes many years, where men and women meet at the river and are proposed to there (the beaded head ring show their availability as we saw: white/blue=available, black=ready, white=virgin, yellow=jealous). Zulu men save up to get married which is quite expensive since they need to pay at least 11 cows ($1000/cow) as a dowry which can be many years of savings. For the wedding, the dress and suit are made by the fathers from cow hide. The entire process is very formal and takes many years but marriage is for life and the men take care of the women who have very traditional roles.
We learned some ZULU in order to communicate with those we met in the village:
Philah = Alive
Kiela =Stop
Giobonka= Thanks
Sanbonan=Hello
Yabu= Praise
Ninjani = How are you?
Giapena=Sorry
Sukuleki=stand up
Sala kahle=stay well
Omuzi=Villages homeLeia mais
See previous post for further explanation on the Zulu ceremony.
We went on a walking tour that went through the city of Maputo. The city was interesting and colorful but sadly needed a lot of updating. Since Independence in 1975 when the Portuguese left an already poor Country after 400 years, so did the financial resources, and there has been very little infrastructure improvement. There are half-built buildings from 50 years ago that make parts of the city look quite sad and the economy as well as the people suffer. During COVID, the economy weakened and the government did not help businesses so therefore many closed permanently. Maputo, a port city on the Indian Ocean where 4 rivers converge near the southern end of the country with just over 1 million people (in 134 sq miles) although Mozambique total is 34 million. It has been the capital and largest city in Mozambique since its Independence in 1975 and Portuguese along with African languages (Bantu and Tsonga) are spoken here.
We toured the Portuguese Fort, Fortaleza de Maputo, built between 1851-1867 with the town that grew around the Fort. The culture of the colonization was represented here by the statues, armaments, the history of its leaders and the sealed, carved wooden coffin of Ngungunhane, the last great chief of the African Kingdom of Gaza during the colonial period (see photos).
Here is an interesting “fact”. At the entrance of the fort there is a tree (see photo) named kigela pinnata (OR kiegla Africana). It is a famous tree where the King waited for deportation as he was captured and waiting to be deported. The tree has the power (as explained in detail by our guide) to cure anti-inflammatory issues, asthma, used to restore “skin's firmness and improve the elasticity of the skin” in men for certain “parts”, and for other erectile dysfunction issues.Leia mais
Next, we visited Taverna Doce for pastels de nata (or Portuguese Custard Tart). We loved them in Lisbon where they were “invented” (actually made in the 13th century by monks in the Jerónimos Monastery) at Pastelaria Versailles where they have made them since 1920. We were so excited to “see” them again but that’s all we could do … it was Passover so we could only “see” them. As coincidences would have it, they also made homemade Macaroons (not the french type we have on the ship) just like we have had our entire lives on Passover. Not only did we both get the, with our cappuccinos BUT we bought a dozen hand-packed ones to bring back and share on the ship.
Then we weaved through the streets and observed the vendors and stores (many closed up) and made our way to the Central Market. Interestingly, beside the normal street fare of electronics, handmade gifts and souvenirs and other clothing, they must love their shoes. The Market build in 1946 in gothic romantic style, was quite large with many many rows of groceries, exotic and regular vegetables, flowers, fish, nuts, spices and herbs. But the most interesting rows were filled with HAIR. It seems that hair extensions must be very popular with African women as a throwback to look like their ancestors, and people come from all over Africa to get them here.
On the way to our next stop we visited Independence Square which was just outside the Beaux-Arts Central Railway Station built by the Portuguese between 1908-1910. The building is number 3 on the most beautiful train stations of the world list. The dome was constructed in South Africa and assembled in Maputo. A very beautiful train station to walk around and observe the layout and stores, bars, library that was located there.
Note: Sadly, less that 2 weeks before we were there, there was civil unrest and violent demonstrations when thousands assembled and 19 were injured as the people are starting increased uprisings against the ineffective government.Leia mais
Viajante
Their money is so colorful and beautiful.
Viajante
You fit right in - we’ll not really 😎. Looks like a fun day.
Viajante
How pretty…