Lubián - A Gudiña (11/taxi)

One of my fellow pilgrims snored like a tractor, so I fell asleep late. As I woke up at 7.15h everyone else apart from the bikers had already left. I took it slow, because I had decided to make it a short stage today. Lubián to A Gudiña would be 24 kms. Most likely too many for my still vulnerable tendons. And besides, it would be a hot day again and my pack was heavy with food and prepped meals.

I had breakfast at the chapel just out of Lubian. An orange, yoghurt and nuts, making my pack a little lighter before it would go uphill again.

Shortly after I had a scary experience with 2 big Spanish mastifs. When I heard their heavy barks I took off my pack to get my pole. Just at that moment they came running and barking, crossing the path about 50 meters ahead of me. No idea what they were after, but I took my chances and moved on quickly. I could hear their barks for quite a while but they didn't come after me.

The climb through the forest to the pass (and border with Galicia) is nice and beautiful. Almost all in the shade. The last few 100 meters were hard and rather steep, but the views were worth it.

The decent is more gradual and also along a nice and easy forest path. When I arrived in Vilavella the only bar in the village was closed. This isn't the easiest part of the Camino for a thirsty or hungry pilgrim. Long live selfcatering. I started eating from my prepared salad while I waited for the taxi.

Just a heads up for other pilgrims who might need a taxi. There is a lot of advertisement on the mojones, especially between Requejo and Lubián. I phoned them and they asked 40 euros. They said because they had to come all the way from Puebla de Sanabria. But why advertise on this part of the Camino then? I then googled a taxista in A Gudiña and he charged me 16 euros. So it is worthwhile shopping around.

The new Xunta albergue in A Gudiña is wonderful and so was hospitalera Ana. A beautiful and spacious building. They opened only one dormitory which makes sense because of the cleaning work. We were there with 8 walking pilgrims and 2 bicigrinos. This part of the Sanabrés is not as quiet as I thought it would be in August.

Together with another pilgrim I took the opportunity to a refreshing swim in the piscina municipal next door. What a delight.Read more