Spain
Galicia

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    • Day 6

      That’s a lot of rain! 🌧️

      Yesterday in Spain ⋅ 🌫 45 °F

      Today it rained ALL 11.5 miles. 🙃

      My face: “This is the greatest day ever”

      Brett’s face: I hate every minute of this”

      Clearly we have very different perspectives on the day 😜😂

      But regardless we made it. 💪🏽

      Some sweet moments:

      👉🏽The neighbors put out a free spread to all pilgrims, it was a community breakfast, totally free for anyone who needed a bite in their courtyard. It was awesome. I thought this is how we should live everyday.

      👉🏽Going uphill in the rain, in the cold 🥶, in the mud , can test anyone’s faith! I think we passed, barely.

      👉🏽 Brett looks cute in a poncho. She doesn’t think so but I do.

      👉🏽 As we walked we prayed for our friends in our lives, their families and marriages. This was a sacred moment.

      ———————

      Route Summary:

      Triacastela to Sarria
      Triacastela, Galicia
      11.5 mi, 1129 ft elevation gain

      Route Summary
      The route through San Xil and Pintin to Sarria is a journey through the essence of the Galician landscape. This section of the Camino de Santiago is characterised by its natural and peaceful setting, where the routes weave through lush forests and welcoming villages, reflecting rural life at its best.

      The stage from Triacastela to Montán is a beautiful introduction to the diversity of the Galician landscape, with paths winding through forests and meadows. The small village of Montán, known for its church dedicated to Santa María, offers a haven of peace and spirituality, allowing pilgrims a moment of reflection in the midst of nature.

      Sarria is strategically placed just over the 100Km mark away from Santiago which is the minimum distance to be covered in your pilgrimage for you to be eligible to receive the completion certificate (la Compostela) once you reach Santiago. For this reason, it is the ideal starting place for new Camino walkers.
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    • Day 23

      Sarria to Morgade Day 1

      May 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      We set off around 9am and were at our accommodation by 12.20
      Good day walking, About 14 klms rain and cold with lots of other walkers. Beautiful woodlands and streams along the way, stops for coffee and cake if needed. Sure slept well!!!Read more

    • Day 41

      Day 38 WE DID IT!

      Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      After pouring rain all day the sun gave us a break when reaching Santiago. Got us a nice hotel with a small balcony just down the street from the Cathedral. We're here for 4 nights before leaving for Madrid. Even got our Compostelas. It's been an emotional day for both of us so we're heading out looking for more of our camino buddies.
      36 days of walking plus 2 rest days got us from St.Jean to Santiago. Just 2 cousins talking a walk 😁🚶‍♂️🚶‍♀️
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    • Day 30

      O Piñeiral

      May 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Day 30
      The hostel common room was busy last night, especially with a group of 8 or so youngsters eating together, and another group of 3 Italian men plus one Dutch guy: Italian men know how to look after themselves, don't you know?! They were cooking a superb spaghetti carbonara together, which made my individual vegetable omelette look measly (but it was delicious, and just as well as I had been schlepping the already cooked vegetables for two days in my rucsac, waiting to find eggs!). Sometimes, I think, it would be nice to be part of a meal group, but somehow I end up eating on my own. Am I too self-sufficient? Or too shy to invite someone to join me? Or too 'something' to be invited by others?

      I then took a walk into the village and sauntered into the Museo Etnografico, just at the same time as Alfonso from the Netherlands. The lady assumed we were together, so he paid my ticket; in return I bought him a beer later. These easy get-to-know-you relationships are great, no complications, lots of simple openness and of course lots in common to talk about, even if only about sore feet, or the rain, or 'yes it's my first Camino' (or, '... my 4th' ... or, 'I have been coming every year since 1972'). I'm tending at this point to ask straight up what someone's 'Camino story' is, and mostly people answer something very ordinary like 'it's just a sport holiday', but sometimes I get to hear something more personal, and that is of course what I love. Jason, 23, Netherlands, rubix geek and self-taught/ self-motivated social researcher in their field of expertise, children's mental health services. Awe-inspiring personality and a lovely energy. Alan, US, second wife, downsizing, ' I have come to realise I like my life just as it is, simple, ordinary'. Dieuw, Netherlands, 'I want to be a mum, and I'm considering being a single mum'. Petra, Germany, 'I nearly packed it all in today ... do you want a hug?'

      Slept rather restlessly and woke before 6, so decided to walk with the dawn and left the hostel before 7. Not that there was any sun to see; a day of cloud and rain, almost all day. Wet feet. Dry everything else, with my lovely umbrella (hmmm, do I need to give her a name? Suggestions please). Happy everything.

      Entered Galicia! Ate lunch in a restaurant, a super delicious fish soup, with white wine, and shared a Pastel de A Fonsagrada dessert with Frank and Jürgen. Jürgen's dessert, that is to say, with three forks. (I'm gonna try that recipe at home; will you come and share it? Basically butter, eggs and almonds, with a splash of cognac. Soooo good.) AND Jürgen paid for my meal!

      Upgraded to a single room at the hostel/ hotel, so I'm in bliss. I've put the heater on so I can dry my shoes out properly. That's about the level of interest in life for a pilgrim after a month of walking and a day of wetness. Bare necessities!

      I'm very aware that I will arrive in Santiago in under a week. Walking 25km a day is normal, now, and 30 easy enough. My back is strong again. The journalling and painting has not done what I'd hoped, but that's okay. Perhaps another time? I've had no great revelations along the way, but I'm content with what is.
      It's just me. This is it. Easy.

      Just thankful.
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    • Day 31

      Caldas de Reis

      May 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Heute morgen starteten wir um 7 Uhr beim Hostel und trafen vor der Tür Ted und Henry, die uns erzählten, dass heute in Galicia ein Feiertag und somit alles geschlossen ist, außer den Bars. Wir waren natürlich überrascht, aber dann müssen wir eben Essen gehen, wird sich was finden.
      17.Mai ist in Galicia ein gesetzlicher Feiertag, literature day, Tag der Literatur. Die erste Feier fand 1963 zum Gedenken an den 100. Jahrestag einer der bedeutendsten Dichterinnen in der Geschichte Galiziens statt.
      Ansonst gibt es zum heutigen Regentag nicht viel zu sagen. Bis Mittag hat es geregnet, dann kam die Sonne raus und es war schwül, aber fein. Aber denkste, kurz vor 13 Uhr , noch bevor die Albergue öffnete, schüttete es wieder. Eine warme Dusche war angesagt und Essen f. 18:30 in einer Burgeria, nicht weit entfernt. Nur noch 2 Etappen bis Santiago. Wir werden alle gemeinsam einlaufen und die Messe besuchen.
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    • Day 9

      At last! Some sun 🌞

      May 16 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      We had a really good night's sleep at the campsite, sharing our room with Maria from Peru (although she's lived in Germany for over 20 years). Half way through the night we were woken by howling wind and rain - all good because we were snug in our beds and hopefully that was the weather front passing, leaving us with lots of dry weather when we woke up!
      We weren't disappointed because the sky was blue and it was beautiful walking weather - we still had the breeze from the Atlantic but the sun glasses were on 👏.
      After about half an hour of roadside walking, we took a right turn up into some amazing woodland. The path became large (and small) boulders, grass and mud, but it was such beautiful countryside, albeit quite steep in places, that nothing mattered. We wandered through small hamlets, past sheep and a couple of goats, but no pop-up stalls for a drink stop in the sunshine. Still, it didn't seem long before we reached Baiona, a seaside town, where we stopped at a café for our first tortilla of this camino, and were we disappointed? Yes!🙄😂 It was very dry, but that didn't stop us eating it! Sid had a good go, too!
      We found the Tourist Information for a stamp in our Pilgrim Passports and were off again, on the lookout for a Gelato shop. But there were none to be found 😫 until, according to Google maps, Playa America, close to Nigrán, so we headed there! Were we disappointed? Yes!🙄😂 It was closed... But we found a small café/restaurant place and stopped there for a cold drink.
      We'd already decided this was as far as we were walking and were ready to take the bus into Vigo. We used our phones to find the closest bus stop to Vigo, found the timetable, and took ourselves off. The bus stop wasn't signed but we were definitely there, so when the bus arrived, and drove straight past us, with the driver giving us a shake of the head and a finger wag, we started looking again! Another bus passed us, so we walked a km or so onwards to the next 'real' bus stop. Whilst we were waiting there, the heavens opened, so it was a quick change into waterproofs. Despite sitting there for well over an hour, probably closer to 2, not one bus arrived, despite the timetable telling us they would🙄. What next? A taxi!!! We went into the local tobacconists and two very lovely Spanish ladies booked us one, which quickly arrived and sped us off to our accommodation here in Vigo. But... they keys were at the office, a 10 minute walk away... Another lovely lady (I'm in 2B, come for a coffee!), said through translation with her neighbour in 2C, that the owner of the flat was Galician and should 'have the balls' to come here😂. Anyway, we walked quickly to the office, picked up our keys, and walked back - all in the pouring rain. We were drenched!
      A quick trip to the supermarket next door for provisions found the lady again, who began to tell everyone who we were😂. But we're in, and it's great. We've finally managed to wash our clothes (thanks, Yvonne🤗), and now we're waiting for Luke and Ray to join us. But they've been having their own issues getting here, so are a day late! It's now our rest day and I've been out to find something healthy for breakfast, only to discover (remember) it's Galician literature day so all the supermarkets are closed🙄, so more carb it is... And it's due to rain heavily tomorrow when we start walking again... 😂😂😂
      Looking on the bright side, my foot's healed 👏🙏👏.
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    • Day 36

      Last day in Santiago?

      May 16 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      The question mark is there because Iberia workers have announced a partial work stoppage at the Santiago airport for today and tomorrow. In my opinion, it is totally justified. The nearby airport in Vigo is closed for runway repairs. Many of the flights have been diverted to Santiago, but there has been no increase in staffing by the big cheeses at Iberia. The workers are stressed and overworked, and they are only asking for more help to be brought on. It looks like there have been some concessions made, and today’s strike apparently only involved the cancellation of three flights. So I am mildly optimistic that my flight will go tomorrow morning as scheduled to Madrid.

      I’m glad to have had this day here, because I did have a lot of last-minute shopping to do. I was also able to have a nice long coffee with Ivar (who owns the Santiago internet forum). And I enjoyed having more time with Faith in the Pilgrim House. It always seems like I need her help. A few years ago she helped me take a Covid test online. In spite of how stressful it was, it did get me onto the plane! Another year she gave me a pair of walking sticks for me to take to Finisterre because my Z poles had broken. This year she brought me some duct tape to try to piece together the fraying fabric on my 24-year-old backpack. I was afraid that some of the baggage handling equipment might catch one of the little holes and just rip the whole pack open. Imagine how happy I was when an Australian pilgrim offered to undertake the repair job. She obviously knew what she was doing.

      The afternoon has been kind of flat, just wrapping olive oil in bubble wrap, packing up, and the very last of my shopping. It’s not that I get a lot, it’s just that I’m very indecisive and take way too long to figure out important questions like which T-shirts to get which grandkids. And I decided to go back to my favorite bean and spices place, as well as the cheese store down the street. So I have a lot to take home! For those who like beans, this place has a huge selection of beans all from Spain. Lentils, white beans, and the garbanzos that I just love. The cheese store is owned by the cheese maker, so I always like to buy few of their really good Gallego cheeses. Unlike one of my dear Camino friends, I am not a fan of the tetilla cheese, but I tasted a few others and got some really good ones today. One I especially liked was a blue cheese that was not quite as creamy as La Peral (my all-time favorite Asturian cheese), but was yummy. End of food tutorial.

      I can’t believe it was five weeks ago that I arrived in Spain. These Camino walks are so medicinal (in a good way). Though my body is definitely tired, and I know it was time to stop walking, it’s a positive high-five-giving kind of exhaustion.
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    • Day 30

      Pontevedra

      May 16 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      War heute morgen schon um 6 Uhr 45 im Cafe, um 7 Uhr kamen Archie und Adam zum Frühstücken, dann starteten wir gemeinsam raus aus der Stadt. Kaum Regen, aber was soll ich sagen, gleich mal kam's richtig runter. Bis um 11 Uhr hielt das an, dann kam sogar etwas die Sonne raus und nur bei leichtem Nieseln erreichten wir kurz nach 14 Uhr die Albergue. Heute ging es dann ca 7 km an einem Fluss entlang, war wunderschön, aber totaler Matsch und stehende Pfützen. Wir hatten die gleiche Herberge gebucht, kurz davor war ein Aldi, bei dem deckten wir uns gleich mit Essen und Tinto de Verano ein f. den Abend. Heute ist Waschtag, wir sind ja voll dreckig und nass. Die Herberge ist wirklich nett und schön.
      Leider hörten wir von Kate, die gestern in Vigo, einen Tag hinter uns war, dass sie beraubt wurde und und ohne Geld und Karten in Vigo ist. Ihr Mann schickt ihr Geld, wie sie weitermacht, wissen wir noch nicht, auch nicht, wie es passierte. Dies tut mir echt leid. Hoffe, es wendet sich alles zum Guten.
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    • Day 35

      In Santiago

      May 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Well, today I got a 6am bus from Muxia back to Santiago. From 8 am till 8 pm, I was on the move. I’ve just sat down in a vegetarian restaurant, and the food looks fabulous. It’s called A Porta Verde, and I will let you know.

      I have walked all over town, visited the Pórtico de la Gloria (I knew that photography was prohibited in the Pórtico, but I thought it was OK in the Gelmirez Palace —after innocently taking pics of some of my favorite civil Romanesque carving, I was told it was prohibido but that I could keep the fotos), I went to Ivar’s office, I’ve started my olive oil purchasing (yikes, have prices risen!), I got my compostela (no wait in the pilgrims office at about 6 PM, after more than 2000 compostelas had been issued), bought bubble wrap, went to my favorite frutería, and have met three forum members in different places. Not necessarily in that order.

      The one sad event came in the late morning. I went up to the market and headed straight for my favorite little booth selling lots of canned Galician products — sardines, bonito (a special tuna), etc. The place was locked up. I asked the butcher in the next stall if she knew anything about the owners. I had met them about 15 years ago, and I went there every time I came to Santiago. About 10 years ago, the woman told me that her husband had dementia, and I got regular updates every time I got to Santiago. The butcher told me that the husband has died and that the woman has gone to A Coruña to live. No more Conservas de Galicia.

      My pictures are for my peregrino friends who will recognize all the spots, except for maybe my favorite frutería, where I got 4 clementinas and 4 mandarinas for 65 céntimos.

      P.s. I am eating my wok bowl and it is very good. Lots of vegetables and great seasoning.
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    • Day 34

      In Muxia

      May 14 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

      I have walked from Finisterre to Muxia (or the reverse) at least 5 times. 30 km, 600m. This time it was hard. The ascent at the end was a killer for me. If I’m lucky enough to walk this route again, I will split those 30 km in half. The little town of Lires, which used to have one old pensión and café, has had a small camino explosion.

      The weather was fine, with a little drizzle as I left and a few drops as I arrived. But nothing in between. I took a detour to the Lires beach, hoping the bar would be open, but it wasn’t. So I sat on a bench, looking out at the beautiful water, chomping on some nuts and drinking water, instead of my longed-for Fanta de Limón.

      I wasn’t feeling particularly social when I arrived, and after a good lunch alone of sea bass and razor clams, I walked out to the church on the rocky point. It’s a spectacular setting. The waves were ferociously pounding on the rocks and the tide was so high it would have been dangerous to walk out on any of them like I usually do. So I just sat, with the wind blowing like crazy and contemplated. The end of another walk —it always happens. No profound revelations after this month of walking, just a sense that life is good and that I am extremely lucky to have been able to walk another beautiful camino.

      It’s raining here and it looks like sunset will happen behind a thick veil of clouds. But I’m not disappointed because this has been a really full camino.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Galicia, Galicien, منطقة غاليسيا, جاليسيا, Qalisiya, Галісія, Галисия, গালিথিয়া, Galiza, Galicija, Galícia, Galizia, Galicie, Galisia, Γαλικία, Galegio, گالیسیا, Galice, Galysje, Comunidade Autónoma de Galicia, Yn Ghaleesh, גליסיה, गलिशिया, Galisiya, Գալիսիա, Gallecia, Galisía, ガリシア, გალისია, Галисиэ, 갈리시아 지방, Galîsya, Galisi, Gallaecia, Galissia, Galisija, Галиција, गालिसिया, Galicië, Galicia i Spania, Галиси, Galicja, گالیکیا, A Galiza, Galisya, Галиция, Galizzia, கலீசியா, แคว้นกาลิเซีย, Galiçya, 加利西亚

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