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Camino De Santiago
  • Carlea Bauman
  • Carlea Bauman

Camino De Santiago

Carleaによる18日間のアドベンチャー もっと詳しく
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  • 旅行の開始
    2024年10月13日
    Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者
    On the commuter train from the Madrid airport to Chamartin train station
    185 MPHMy first albergue (hostel) of my CaminoIn my bunk

    Planes, speedy train, and automobuses

    2024年10月14日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Oooh, boy. It’s been a day. A literal day. Just under 24 hours ago, Geoff and the kids dropped me off at Dulles. I slept maybe an hour or so on the flight but that was it.

    Had a connecting flight in London to Madrid. From there, I took a commuter train to a train station to take the high speed (“alta velocidad”) train to Léon. From there, I walked to the bus station to get to Hospital de Órbigo, where I am now, ensconced in my bunk bed in the Albergue Casa de los Hildagos.

    I was flying high and feeling pretty good about my Spanish skills but as the day wore on and my energy lagged, so did my confidence. I was ripe pickings for a total asshole dude at the Léon bus station who refused to help me as I tried to verify I was going to the right door for my bus and mocked me when I reverted to English out of habit/shock/exhaustion/whatever when he was rude to me. I managed to not cry in front of him but I cried for the kind elderly folks I asked next for help and then the bus driver. Ultimately, I had the right fucking door the whole time. That guy is a dick and I hope his falls off. Sorry not sorry.

    Things of note:
    1. I had the most amazing ham and cheese croissant at the Madrid Chamartin train station.
    2. At that same cafe, there were two women with Camino shells on their backpacks so I wished them a “Buen Camino.” I was rewarded with a blizzard of Spanish flying back at me and I said, “Despacio! Mi español no es bueno.” They spoke zero English but we managed to exchange that they were on their way to start in Sarria and I was able to tell them I was meeting my friend who started in France.
    3. Donuts in Spain are called “dots,” which is way better in my opinion.    もっと詳しく

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  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者

    Hospital de Órbigo-Astorga 10 miles

    2024年10月15日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    My jet-lagged ass finally fell asleep around 1:30 this morning, but before that, I got hit with hunger pangs so bad that I had to answer them (it *was* dinner time according to my confused system).

    I was the only woman in a bunk room with three dudes and I tried so hard to quietly eat crackers from the loudest packaging ever created. Sorry, amigos. I know I woke them all up because ALL. OF. THEM. SNORED.

    Up at 7 and out the door a little after 8 am; the last one, which I will blame on the fact that it was my first morning doing the wake-up-and-pack routine. It was still dark out when I left. And raining.

    I was annoyingly chipper those first few miles, greeting every animal I encountered in Spanish:
    “Hola, vaca. Moo!”
    “Hola, perro!”
    “Hola gatos!”

    I met so many people and I had to really restrain myself from peppering them with a million questions because, while it was just my first day, they’ve all been at it for a month now. I met Pat and Sean from Manchester, England, Chad from Boston, Joe from Palo Alto, Donna from Charlottesville, VA (more on her in a bit).

    About seven miles in, I came across the most amazing donativo, which is the Camino version of Trail Magic. It was like an oasis in the desert. I sat down and ate some good shit and played with a very sweet doggeh.

    As I closed in on Astorga, my stop for the day, Donna caught up with me. Everyone caught up to and ultimately passed me because 1) I’m slow, 2) I took a ton of photos, and 3) I kept dancing while I walked which had to have some impact on my pace, right?

    Donna invited me to join her and friends to dinner. She texted me a while later to say she was going to the Palacio de Gaudi so I joined her for that too. Donna is a retired badass living her best damn life. She’s a former elected official from Albemarle County, VA, and we totally bonded over politics.

    At dinner, I met her friends who came from California, North Carolina, and Northampton, England. It was a total hoot. We’re all walking to Rabanal tomorrow so hopefully I’ll see them again.    もっと詳しく

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  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者
    My shoes after day 1
    Water station outside of AstorgaWhatever this plant is, it lined the trail this morning and smelled deliciousMe and DonnaIngrid from Austria and one of her two horses doing the Camino

    Astorga-Rabanal del Camino 12 1/2 miles

    2024年10月16日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    The sun rises around 8:30 am around here so when I was up and at ‘em before 7 this morning, I knew I’d have a dark walk for a while.

    What I soon realized is that it was VERY dark, along a moderate-speed highway frequented by trucks, and I was COMPLETELY alone. I thought to myself, “I’m going to get murdered and Geoff is going to kill me for that.”

    After about two miles, I passed a fenced-in dog apparently (I couldn’t see him, only hear him) and about 5 minutes later I heard him barking again so I knew that finally another pilgrim was coming up behind me.

    By the time it was light enough to turn off my headlamp, I was being passed by dozens of people and I was so fricking grateful.

    Soon thereafter, my new friend Donna from Charlottesville moseyed up behind me and the rest of the day flew by as we gabbed the whole time. We stopped at every town we came to—all adorable—and sat and ate or drank, and rested our feet.

    And the rain finally stopped. Apparently the sun DOES shine in Spain. (Your brain is going to want to sing from My Fair Lady now. Just let it. I’ve tried to not let mine go there but it’s useless.)

    As we neared Rabanal, our friends Wendy and Bruce caught up to us and we finished the day together.

    My albergue was right at the start of town, thank you baby Jesus, so I peeled off first. The woman at the albergue did my laundry for me for 8 Euros—fucking worth it—and I went next door and ate a hamburger and drank a beer. Met pilgrims who were short distancers like me. They started in Léon two days before me and they’re from Tennessee. Forgot their names.

    Afterwards I napped, which was glorious, then dinner with my Camino friends.

    I’m in a bunk room with at least seven other women tonight. This is, I think, my last bunk room of my Camino. I have a private hotel room the next two nights and then when Laura and I join up, we’ll share a private double.

    I wanted the hostel experience because I never did it in college. Now I can say I’ve done it and I’m fine with not doing it anymore. I’d like to lay in bed in my undies and a shirt and not share a bathroom with dozens of others. I’d like a window I can open up and let in fresh air. I’d like a real goddamn shower and a real towel. (I brought a Sham Wow to keep my pack weight down and that thing gets the job done but is entirely unsatisfying.)

    By starting where I did, I avoided, purposefully, the least pleasant part of the Camino Frances and now we are moving into higher elevations and prettier views. There was an 1100 foot elevation gain today and it is noticeably cooler. In a few days, we’ll hit the highest point of the Camino.

    I’m having so much fun. My feet, knock wood, are holding up okay. So is my back. Physically I feel great. The walking is gorgeous and I’ve met countless people from all over the world. I am so grateful.    もっと詳しく

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  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者
    Looked for the little fairies living underneath but they managed to stay hidden2Cruz de FerroFricking mud1El Acebo!That's my hotel on the leftMy poor sneakersView from my window2I have an Apple Tag in my backpack so Geoff and the kids can follow me. I got this text today. ❤️El Acebo2Post-nap and showered!2My amazing home for two nights!2

    Rabanal del Camino-El Acebo 10 miles

    2024年10月17日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Today was an ass-kicker. It was 10 cold, rocky, misty, windy, uphill, downhill, muddy, and more rocky miles.

    Don’t get me wrong, I loved it. It was beautiful but I was very happy to see sweet little El Acebo finally emerge in the distance and positively thrilled when I realized that my cute hotel was the very first building we came upon into town.

    And speaking of my hotel…oh my god it is so cute. I have the top floor attic room all to myself. My own bathroom with the hottest of showers, a huge bed and an amazing view. And I have two nights here! Fucking squee.

    Today’s walk took us past the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross). It’s the highest point of the Camino Frances, at almost 5,000 ft elevation. The Camino tradition is to leave a rock at the base to symbolize leaving your burdens behind. As you can see from the photo, I’m standing on hundreds of years of left-behind burdens.

    I texted Laura, who is two days behind me at this point that, “the trail was a bit of a bitch.” A lot of people were moaning and groaning about it before leaving this morning so I wasn’t sure what to expect. It wasn’t bad but only because I’ve hiked the Appalachian Trail’s gatdam roller coaster and still have some PTSD from it. 😁

    That being said, there was so much mud that my shoes are a different color now and I nearly wiped out two or three times. Thank goodness for hiking poles.

    When the clouds and mist and fog would break, the views were amazing. And even when they didn’t, there were adorable (and I’m sure deadly) mushrooms and gorgeous moss laden trees. It was all so stunning. At one point, I stopped and hollered, “I’m in fricking Spain!” It doesn’t get much better than that.    もっと詳しく

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  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者

    Rest day!

    2024年10月18日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    I slept until 8:30 this morning. I don’t even do that at home. Got up, had breakfast, took a nap.

    Then I got a massage. They do them differently here. Glad I have a few Korean spa body scrubs in my recent past so that I was not completely mortified by the parts of me that got oiled up.

    Speaking of oiled up, I’m now so slick I could probably explore some newly discovered caves with no issue.

    Think I might nap again. Or get a beer. Or, what the fuck, why not both?

    I see Laura tomorrow!    もっと詳しく

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  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者

    FOMO vs the what-ifs

    2024年10月19日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    I have a decision to make and I’m running out of time to make it.

    I need to get to Molinaseca today, which is only about five miles away. But it’s a hairy five miles. The elevation profile in this pic shows what it’s like. Check out El Acebo and then look at Molinaseca.

    As rough as going uphill can be, it’s a hell of a lot easier, and less scary, than going downhill. I spent a large part of last evening reading comments from people who have done it and read things like, “I’ve done the Camino three times and only did that part of the trail once.” Many people walk the road or take a taxi. For those who take the road, they recommend wearing reflective gear, for obvious reasons, and avoiding the weekends. I have no such gear, and it’s Saturday.

    On one hand, I REALLY want to go for a walk today. And I’m afraid of missing out on an adventure. There is nothing like that feeling of accomplishment.

    On the other hand, if someone is going to fall, it’s me, and it sure would suck if it was a bad fall and ruined the rest of my Camino.

    Laura is walking from Rabanal to El Acebo, the same walk I did two days ago, and then taking a taxi to Molinaseca. Her knee is bothering her badly, so that is the absolute right decision, no question. I just have fear.

    Another option is there is a trail not part of the Camino (but is on AllTrails) that starts in that town on the elevation profile called Reigo de Ambros and ends in Molinaseca that is supposed to be lovely. So I’m thinking I might taxi to that trailhead and walk the rest of the way, which is about 3 miles.    もっと詳しく

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  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者
    2Sr. SlugAspens!Our home for the nightLaura, planning out the rest of our staysLiterally the house wine where we had dinner

    Riego de Ambrós-Molinaseca 3.7 miles

    2024年10月19日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    As previously mentioned, I took a taxi to Reigo de Ambrós and hiked into Molinaseca, avoiding the worst of the Camino.

    It was easier but not easy. It was a challenging hike, and gorgeous. I was the only pilgrim on the trail, the rest were local day hikers. I met a trio who were collecting chestnuts and mushrooms and a huge group of hikers who were ascending a crazy incline that I wasn’t thrilled to be going down, so I can only imagine how they felt.

    I still managed to fall on some loose shale, goddammit. But at least I landed on some soft padding in the form of moss, and my butt. Of course it was within the last fricking 1/4 of a mile. Fricking rocks.

    And then I waited for Laura in town. I jumped up and down when I saw her and ran to give her a big hug. We both cried. It was so wonderful to see her and I can’t wait to start the rest of this adventure with her.    もっと詳しく

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  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者
    Sr. SnailHow cute is this house?1Do you see why Laura and I are friends?21Cacabelos

    Molinaseca-Cacabelos 14 miles

    2024年10月20日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Today is the farthest I’ve ever walked in one day ever and my calves would like you to know they are displeased.

    We had great weather. In fact, it was a bit too warm for me toward the end of the day.

    Our hostal owners sent us off with an amazing breakfast and, honestly, as I write this and think back to it, it feels like it took place days ago.

    It was all urban and suburban walking today, which was fine. I got my fill of off-roading the past few days.

    We hit up Ponferrada, which is the largest city we will visit before Santiago. It was a legit city with banks, multiple pharmacies, soccer fields, men who fucked with us as they drove by, etc.

    The best part was the humongous castle of the Knights Templar, built in the 1100s to protect the pilgrims walking the Camino. According to others, we *really* should have toured it, but we had a 14 mile day and that shit just was not happening.

    About two miles from our stop for the night, we came upon a man taking photos for what he’s calling, “The Pilgrim Project.” He’s a professional photographer taking portraits of pilgrims as they walk by (if they are willing, of course). We agreed to it, so we completely disrobed as he asked and posed with our arms around each other.

    I KID! Of course he didn’t do that. We posed like regular hikers, fully clothed. He’ll send us a link to the images in a few weeks. Apparently he’s also creating an Instagram account for it but he hasn’t uploaded anything yet. It seemed cool and could be a really nice souvenir.    もっと詳しく

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  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者

    This is what happens when we drink

    2024年10月21日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    See that elevation from Las Herrerias to O Cebreiro? Well, don’t you worry about it because we’re taking horses up it tomorrow.

    It’s not cheating because this is how the (rich) pilgrims did it in the medieval times.

    And yes, there may have been wine involved in the decision-making. Sorry not sorry.    もっと詳しく

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  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者
    Villafranca del Bierzo CastleVillafrancaThe Camino en route to TrabadelloCute cement truck

    Cacabelos-Trabadello 11 miles

    2024年10月21日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Seventeen miles were on the docket for today and I was dreading it, so when Laura asked me, “How do you feel about cabbing today?” I was thrilled.

    In terms of the Camino de Santiago and how the Pope feels about one’s effort, one MUST walk the last 100 km. We are at about 170 km now so no matter what, we need to stay upright and mobile for that last 100, and if that means taking it easy now and again up to that point, we do. We headed out the door to walk to the next big town, Villafranca, 6 miles away, where we planned to catch a taxi to our hotel for the night.

    The sun rises at 8:45 am so even though it was already 7 when we left, it was pitch black outside for the first three miles. When the sun finally started to crack, we could see gorgeous fields of seemingly endless vineyards, and clouds sinking below the mountain tops into the valley below. It was so beautiful and I was gobsmacked again by the fact that I get to go on this long walk in Spain.

    When we finally made it to Villafranca we were ready to eat our hiking poles because nothing had been open in Cacabelos or anywhere else in between. We found a restaurant, ordered two cafe con leches, and two pan tostado con tomate y aceite de oliva (toast with tomato and olive oil). Holy moly that shit is tasty.

    Laura found an open pharmacy with a pharmacist who clearly has helped a pilgrim or two manage increasingly problematic foot pain and came back laden with cream, KT tape, and a plan.

    I decided I had it in me to do another 9 km (about 5 1/2 miles). So she called a taxi and off I headed toward Trabadello. As I headed out of Villafranca, the cutest squirrel I’d ever seen in my life ran past me. He was reddish brown with a black tail and pointed ears. I hollered at him, “OMG look at how cute you are!” but he didn’t stop and say thank you so I assume he only speaks Spanish.

    The walk to Trabadello was along a roadway, not especially scenic or calming, a bit on the boring side, but I had my murder podcast keeping me entertained and I got to enjoy the adorable cement trucks they have here in Spain (see the photo). As I got closer to town, I decided to have lunch, rest my feet, and seriously consider going for the full 17 miles. But then my feet started screaming at me and when I arrived, not a single fricking place was open.

    So I sat my ass down and called the same taxi Laura used. He came to get me about 30 minutes later. And it was lovely.    もっと詳しく

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  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者

    Las Herrerias-Fonfria 12 miles

    2024年10月22日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    By horse: 5 miles
    By foot: 7 miles

    Our new best friend Victor was waiting for us this morning with our rides, Bonnie and Paola, to take us up the mountain to O Cebreiro. He walked/guided the horses the whole way, never stopping to gasp for air and continuing to carry on conversations with us. Victor is apparently Superman.

    The route was gorgeous. We walked through a lush green forest and emerged above the clouds to a bright blue sky. Victor told us it was our destiny to ride today because it has been rainy and cloudy for weeks on end.

    After we said adios to the three of them, we headed into charming O Cebreiro for lunch. The tortilla con patata we had today was the best one yet. The woman who prepared it for us told us how to make it and we are both prepared to give it a try when we get home, though it does sound like it will take some trial and error. Will be worth it if we can come remotely close to what we ate today.

    The walk into Fonfria was stunning. Green mountains for days and a lovely cool breeze. On our way, we met a truly international couple. He was German, she was Korean, and they live in Japan. Poor guy was telling us he got food poisoning a few days ago but still managed to walk 25 km after throwing up all night. Show off.

    There was one killer of a hill about three miles from Fonfria that was a bit of a monster but there was a lovely bar at the top where Laura and I rested and refortified.

    Our hotel is dreamy. We were able to do laundry, which was highly necessary. Dinner was a community meal with everyone else staying here.    もっと詳しく

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  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者
    2

    I love shit like this

    2024年10月23日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F
  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者
    2Those are clouds, not lakes
    On one of the endless ups"Enjoy the here and now"A very hippie donativo I rested my bones at in a town called Montan

    Fonfria-Pintin 13 miles

    2024年10月23日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Today was my first psychologically difficult day. I’ve reached the point where my feet are wholly unhappy plus I’m missing my babies and the comforts of home. So I’m feeling a little weepy.

    There were two routes we could take today. One was flatter but 7 km (4+ miles) longer. We opted for shorter. Laura went on ahead while I took a longer break because I really wanted to try to go the full 17 miles today. Then I accidentally took the longer route. Fortunately I figured it out before too long but I didn’t need that extra 1/2 mile on a day like today.

    On our shorter but not-flat route, the ups felt endless and the downs became agonizing. I slowed to practically a crawl out of concern about falling and because walking on the balls of my feet causes me a lot of pain. So I do this slow shuffle where I land on my heels and crouch a little so that my knees don’t take the brunt of it. So my quads were screaming at me too. Every body part would like a word with me, apparently.

    At one point, there were two paths ahead, one that went up and one that went steeply down. I knew that if the descent was the Camino path I’d burst into tears. Thankfully it wasn’t.

    I finally made it to Pintin, a town that had an open restaurant, and I went in, got myself an Orange Aquarius, and asked them to call me a cab to Sarría, where we are staying tonight.

    I texted with my friend Donna from Charlottesville, whom I haven’t seen since last Thursday, because I knew she was in Sarría tonight too. Turns out she’s staying across town. We laughed about the fact that it’s easier to drive three hours to Charlottesville than it is to walk 20 minutes after a day like today. We won’t see each other again most likely—at least not in Spain. But I’m grateful that she was one of the wonderful friends I made on the Camino.    もっと詳しく

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  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者
    My credencialDonkeh yelled at people who didn't stop to say helloJust some of the locals out for a walk2We had a set of stairs leaving Sarria and another arriving in Portomarin

    Sarria-Portomarin 13 1/2 miles

    2024年10月24日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    I have more complaining to do. My feet fricking hurt. They hurt so bad. This was my only fear before I left. I knew I could handle the Camino physically but I worried about my feet hurting. And they do. They are in agony.

    Okay. That’s it for the complaining.

    We passed a major milestone today. We have less than 100 km to go. When Laura started, she had 767 km to go, so this was a BFD. It was really an honor to be with her when she got to that 100 km marker.

    From here on out, we are required to have two stamps per day in our Credencial del Peregrino to prove we walked the final 100 km (spoiler alert: I’m not going to walk every last km and if the Pope doesn’t like it, well…). Pilgrims get stamps at hotels, albergues, cathedrals, restaurants, even taxi cabs. Laura’s credencial is practically full but I still have plenty of empty boxes, of course. When we get to Santiago, we’ll have to show it to…someone somewhere…in order to receive our compostela but the credencial itself ends up being a really cool souvenir.    もっと詳しく

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  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者
    They aren't big on Halloween decorations here in Spain but this morning's breakfast spot had thisSteamed milk with this stuff is the elixir of life3There's no basement, just floor -1

    Portomarin-Hospital de la Cruz 7 miles

    2024年10月25日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    “It’s okay to stop,” is what Laura said and is all I needed to lay my head down on my poles and cry.

    I hope all I need is a light day and that tomorrow will be better. I am waiting for the siesta to end so I can go get some ball of feet inserts and a brace for my ankle because it has been sending increasingly angry pain up my leg when I step down unevenly.

    I feel very disappointed in my body, I can’t lie.

    The emotional gas that has been pushing me is running very low. I now look at my trail runners with absolute dread. I will never wear them again after this. I don’t know if they aren’t up to the task or if my feet are just so bad that no shoe could sustain what I’ve been doing to them but I want to blame something other than myself so my shoes it is.

    Laura, on the other hand, purchased a new pair of shoes in Portomarin yesterday and absolutely killed it today. She did all 15 miles like a boss. I’m so stinking proud of her. She was really struggling and was in so much pain and she just fixed that shit right up.

    In the cab to Palas de Rei, the driver asked me where to go and I told him the name of the hotel. “Okay,” he said. I said, “Yo se?” intending to say, “You know it?” But “yo se” means “I know” so then I said, “Tu se?” which is closer because “tu” means you but “se” is still the first person conjugation of “know” so then I laughed and finally spit out the (mostly) correct, “Tu sabes?” And followed it up with, “Mi espanol no es bueno,” as if he needed me to tell him that.    もっと詳しく

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  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者

    Remediation

    2024年10月25日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    From left to right:
    - New inserts (I called my podiatrist who suggested removing my orthotics and trying something new). These are the squishiest the store had.
    - Red label and pack: I’m sending my backpack ahead via transport and taking about 13 pounds off of my feet.
    - Below the red label: Ankle brace
    - Paracetamol: The strongest dose they had.

    Fingers crossed!    もっと詳しく

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  • Carlea BaumanCamino De Santiago旅行者

    A beacon in the dark

    2024年10月26日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    There is nothing like reading in the Camino app that there is a bar (breakfast stop) that opens at 7:30 in a town 3k away but then you walk most of the way through town and nothing is open and…then it appears.もっと詳しく

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