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Camino Frances

September - October 2023
  • Charlotte Birch
Avec Mary Beth Murphy Read more
  • Charlotte Birch

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  • Charlotte BirchTravelerCamino Frances
    1One town on today's route offered a different kind of waymarker
    Yet another simple-on-the-outside, ornate-on-the-inside church along the wayBroke the 200 km mark today!Villafranca, a town surrounded by mountainsInside of one of Villafranca's churchesCity garden in VillafrancaPublic water fountain in the city garden1Our hotel on the Plaza MayorCafes and shops on Plaza Mayor

    Villafranca del Bierzo

    Oct 7–8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Today's walk (15 miles) took us through Bierzo vineyards and a few small towns. It was another scenic, sunny day--in the 70s when we were walking, but it hi it 90 around 5 pm, so it's good we finished by lunchtime.

    Saw people we haven't seen since early in our trip and spent a little more time with Elizabeth (from Canada, whose shin splints miraculously healed overnight) and Jean (who is from New Mexico and kickin' ass at 78!).

    Villafranca is a beautiful, small mountain town that somehow at some point supported three convents, three churches and a monastery. The streets and pathways are hilly and curvy so if you are really tired and on foot you don't want to miss your turn as we did a couple times coming in.

    We have a big climb and long hike tomorrow so hope to get an early start (if we can see well enough in the dark).    Read more

  • Charlotte BirchTravelerCamino Frances
    Sunrise over the mountains around Villafranca
    View of valley at sunrise from our perch in the mountainsSeveral locals were collecting chestnuts today andate saw chestnut liquor and cake on a cafe menuA very high road over a village we passed throughSign indicating we are now in GaliciaOur trail-mates in O'Cebreiro

    Long, steep walk to O'Cebreiro

    Oct 8–9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Didn't expect today to be our most demanding day, but we like the scenic detours and they come at a price!

    Left our town at 7:15 am when it was still dark and climbed about 4 miles straight up a mountain. The optional ascent added an hour to our stage but the views and quietness (only saw three others on the way) were spectacular. Later joined the main route, which also involved a very steep climb (another 4-ish miles straight up) at the end. Had to stop mid-trail several times to catch our breath. Reached our destination after 5 pm, making it my longest day of work since I retired!

    Of note, we have left Castilla y Leon behind and are now in Galicia, which shares traditions and culture with other Celtic regions. Strange (and cool!) to hear *Irish* music and bagpipes when we entered O'Cebreiro. (Fyi, we had to taxi to another town for a hotel but will get dropped back where we left off tomorrow morning.)

    Met up with friends who we expect to see many more times in our final week on the Camino. Hard to believe we have been gone for a month--but at the same time, St. Jean Pied-de-Port seems like a lifetime ago.    Read more

  • Charlotte BirchTravelerCamino Frances
    1Sunrise at O'Cebreiro
    A palloza in O'CebreiroChurch in O'Cebreiro that is also where a priest who came up with yellow arrow waymarker is buriedPilgrims watching the sunrise before hitting the trailPilgrim statue--with graffiti, natchThe pilgrim statue's feet, made more realistic by recent pilgrimsPhoto of MB, Barb and me, courtesy of MonikaOur usual rest stop before walking the final 5k. This one with an especially nice view.Stop already with the beautiful scenery!A shady walk heading into Triacastela

    Walk to Triacastela

    Oct 9–10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    At the risk of being boringly redundant, today was another beautiful walk. Nothing super steep, plenty of cows grazing on stunning pastures, and a good amount of shade to keep things comfortable.

    More people on the path today, a preview of our final legs as many Camino walkers opt to start in Sarria, which is tomorrow's destination. (You have to walk at least from Sarria to receive a Compostela.) We are bracing for crowded, less peaceful trails and training our brains not to judge these strange newcomers as party-crashers.

    Did not sleep well last night as our hotel was on a road that 18-wheelers barrelled down at all hours. So we filled up at *linner* today and plan to turn in early.    Read more

  • Charlotte BirchTravelerCamino Frances
    Graveyard along the pathSamos monasteryBenedictine monastery-founded in 6th century on asceticism of the Desert FathersNot exactly what you want to see after 15 miles but at least our hotel was at the top of the steps!The church across from our hotel in SarriaThis 9-year old is starting his Camino with his bestie tomorrow. He's a good boy!

    Scenic option to Sarria

    Oct 10–11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    *Cows and sheep and goats gonna scurry....* That is my only complaint today. Mary Beth woke up singing this song and it got stuck in my head all day. Other than that, no complaints.

    15 miles of beautiful scenery and sites, including an active Benedictine monastery in Samos that is the oldest (?) monastery in the Western world. (Sadly, we could only see the outside as we didn't have time to wait for the tour).

    Old, old villages, shaded paths, more cows--and goats to greet us as we entered Sarria.

    It's clear this is the launching point for many. Bigger town and lots of stores and cafes geared toward the newbie pilgrim. We are prepared to welcome them to the Camino (the seasoned pilgrims that we are!) and excited to be in the home stretch now.    Read more

  • Charlotte BirchTravelerCamino Frances
    More old stone walls and cows in the pasture
    A small chapel in a tiny hamlet......complete with graffiti and whatnot on the insideAn example of the many old stone structures built into the hillsideBroke the 100K threshold. Two stamps a day in our passport from now on!We always end up catching up to ElizabethSome old stone buildings well preserved. Some not so much.Again with the steps after a long hike!View from Portomarin. Walked over a very high bridge. Too scared to look down or take a pic!We are clearly having a good time. For record: Barb, Elizabeth, MB, Craig, Monika, me

    T minus 4: Portomarin

    Oct 11–12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    A pretty blase day on the Camino! Yes, there were more people on the trail but not an overwhelming amount. Yes, it was beautiful, but nothing we haven't seen many times already. So... not many pics.

    We did have a fabulous meal after arriving in Portomarin with our steadfast Camino sisters, Barb and Monika, and it grew to include Elizabeth, then Craig, then others, which is when we knew to call a time-out and go home to do our laundry.

    Relishing our final week and thinking of how to keep what we love about the Camino alive when we return home.    Read more

  • Charlotte BirchTravelerCamino Frances
    Leaving Portomarin at the crack of dawn (7:50!)
    Many more pilgrims on the trail in this home stretchWe've passed many of these and just learned they are horreos, where grain is storedOur cute little room at Pension As HortasDebra (next to me) is planning a celebration for our camino posse in Santiago Oct. 15

    Palas de Rei

    Oct 12–13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Quick update: Left at crack of dawn (7:50 am here) and wended our way through a steady stream of walkers heading out of town. The vibe is different with so many more people on the path, almost like we're in a walk-a-thon. And because nothing can top the scenery we've already passed, and because my phone is being finicky, I didn't take many pics.

    We were happy to catch up with our friends for a great lunch/dinner, and excited that a party of sorts is shaping up for Oct. 15.

    Tomorrow is a long day (18 miles), and the first in a long time with rain in the forecast. We will also be back in the 60s -- a welcome change!    Read more

  • Charlotte BirchTravelerCamino Frances

    Soggy walk to Arzua

    Oct 13–14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    Left at 8 just as the rain began. We donned our waterproof gear and then promptly soaked ourselves in sweat. So, it was a soggy 16.5 mile slog to Arzua.

    Had a long lunch half-way to let a downpour pass, and we are now comfortably chilling in a pretty nice hotel.

    No pics since my phone is clinging to life and therefore could not be out in the rain.    Read more

  • Charlotte BirchTravelerCamino Frances
    Last night's libations, probably marked up 200% by our hotel but still worth it!

    Last stop before Santiago

    Oct 14–15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Blah, blah, blah. Walked 12 miles. Blah, blah, blah. Phone still dying. Very few picks.

    Tried souvenir shopping but it's all schlock so don't expect anything!

    Enjoyed *dinner* at a dia-de-muertos themed Mexican restaurant here in O Pedrouzo that was opened by a family that just moved here from Mexico. Had been craving nachos but, hmm, they didn't quite seem authentic. At least they offered a cool stamp for our passports!

    MB has had to put up with several recent bouts of the giggles. Wine involved but still -- maybe I'm just ready for the finish line. See you tomorrow!    Read more

  • Charlotte BirchTravelerCamino Frances
    Thank you, my dear friend! Happy to complete the journey with you!
    Bought a flashlight yesterday so we could leave at 7. Fun to walk in the woods in the dark!Ignore me in my fashionable poncho--look at those gorgeous trees!❤️After the pilgrim mass at the cathedral

    Santiago

    Oct 15–17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    We're here and all is wonderful. Feels so good, happy and sad all at once. A lot of unexpected tears today!

    Glad we could check in early to our hotel next to the cathedral. Not just cuz we were soaked (it rained the whole way) but also because it allowed us to invite our friends in for Irish Coffees and lunch and really celebrate.

    I am very grateful to my friend Mary Beth for asking me to join her on this incredible adventure. I have loved it all--the ups and downs--and highly recommend the Camino Frances experience. Wish there was an equivalent at home. You really connect with people in a way that's hard to explain or replicate in normal life. But we have promised to try!

    It has truly been a *buen camino*!    Read more

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