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Camino Frances

September - October 2023
Avec Mary Beth Murphy Read more
  • 39footprints
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  • 42days
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  • 16.3kmiles
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  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 1

    Departure Day/Opening Day

    September 7, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌩️ 91 °F

    A coincidence that Cap One's lounge at IAD (which I get free access to thru my card) opened on our departure day? I think not! What a great way to launch our adventure. Free food and drink for us not-yet-weary pilgrims! 😉Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 2

    Biarritz

    September 8, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Loonnng day, from a sleepless overnight in Premium Economy (better than standard economy but still...) to the most circuitous trip I've ever taken from one gate of an airport to another, to a four-hour layover and finally to the cool, charming surf town of Biarritz. Walked along beach paths and winding roads, wined and dined at a couple cafes and are now preparing to turn in, missing the recommended watch parties for France v. New Zealand in rugby tonight. I'm OK with that!Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 3

    Biarritz, Day 2

    September 9, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Perfect way to start the day is with a good night's sleep under our belts, a healthy version of Eggs Benedict and the strongest Americano ever! Walked 9+ miles around town, sometimes in circles because the streets here are confusingly windy. A sweaty day (90 degrees and humid), capped by a fresh picnic dinner on our hotel's terrace, which has a (distant) view of the sea.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 4

    St. Jean Pied de Port

    September 10, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    Took a quick taxi to Bayonne then boarded a train for our launch point. Very scenic route, which even some four-legged passengers appreciated. Toodled around St. Jean (tres pittoresque, with some interesting shops and vending machines), checked in with the Pilgrim office to get our first stamp and walked up to the 16th century citadel and around its ramparts for some great views of the town and mountains. Had a Basque Burger (aka bacon cheeseburger) and sangria at a restaurant where we met a few other pilgrims while waiting for the hotel's check-in time. Then had another glass of wine while waiting for the A/C in our room to catch up to the near-90-degree heat -- a final pampering before tomorrow's vigorous hike over the Pyrenees!Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 5

    Over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles

    September 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Holy moly-quite a trek! Left at 8 am and encountered our steepest climbs, and rain/thunder, early on so happy to get those challenges under our belt. Rainbows in the first couple hours boded well for our climb. Got coffee and breakfast at an auberge (like a tiny ski lodge) about 7 miles and 2,300 feet elevation in. Total climb today was 4,757 feet spread over 16 miles, and every elevation was rewarded with spectacular views--majestic mountains speckled with cows, sheep, horses, all wearing cowbells--that were all the more special because we arrived on our own two feet. Other highlights: zero noise pollution; friendly co-pilgrims; and sweating so much we only had to use nature's bathroom once. :) Arrived Roncesvalles @ 4 pm to a hotel that's a converted monastery. Great dinner and now expect to sleep soundly!Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 6

    Walk to Zubiri

    September 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    14 miles (ish) today, with ascents and descents that were not nearly as steep but still hard because our muscles were a bit tired. A foggy start through charming towns, with plenty of farm animals (and farm poop) en route. Lots of paths through woods which meant fewer vistas but welcome shade. A cafe at the midpoint had an interesting blend of pilgrims and locals, some of whom were enjoying wine at 11 am!

    Zubiri is small but has all the necessities (unlike Roncesvalles, which was a monastery converted to rooms and restaurants). Our hotel, Casa Txantxorena, is an ultra-charming Navarrese mountain home from the 17th century. Our room is where the animals used to stay-pretty nice digs for a cow! Met Belgians, Israelis, Canadians, Australians today, many in it just for the hiking and back-to-basics life.

    Grateful that some of the locals speak English as I can't seem to muster a full sentence in Spanish without pulling out my Google Translate app. Soy una tonta monolingüe Americana!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    1
    121
    Day 7

    Walk to Pamplona

    September 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    A little bit of everything today, including wooded paths along the river, inclines out in the open, cafes for pilgrims, and of course the streets of Pamplona, beginning with the ancient Puenta de Magdalena.

    All the right parts of us were either full or empty when we started out (😉), which helped us make good time. Got a little cocky thinking we had shaved an hour off the walk and then realized we had only arrived at essentially a suburb of Pamplona and had another hour to go. Still, we got to the city in time for the back end of the lunch scene. I resisted getting yet another jamon y queso, opting for other pintxos (tapas, in Basque) instead.

    It's hard to want to walk around a hilly city when you've spent 13 mi on your feet to get there but we saw a few key sites, got our pilgrim stamp and enjoyed *una copa de vino tinto, por favor* at Ernest Hemingway's hang. Apparently, our tiny hotel room overlooks the street where the bulls run, so we're glad to see it but not be here when that happens!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 8

    Pamplona to Puenta la Reina

    September 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Day 4 and I'm already taking some views for granted. But that's okay as I'm enjoying more of the random conversations with other pilgrims. Nancy from L.A., who's married with three kids, one of whom will join her in Leon; Katrina, a fifth grade teacher from Brisbane who is traveling solo; tonight's bartender, who relocated from Madrid after visiting Hotel Jakue on his Camino last year, and Robert from London, who is grieving his girlfriend of 20 years who died in 2022. Lots of people and stories.

    The 15-mile walk itself was rigorous, out of the city and up the mountain where the windmills and pilgrim statues--along with a love/peace/coffee bus run by a couple who only aim to recoup their costs--are, then down a rocky slope and through small towns. We were soooo ready for the finish line. Saw an inviting refuge (aka outdoor bar) when we got to the outskirts of town and were so excited to learn it was actually part of our hotel for the night! It is also an albergue/hostal, so it's been a good place to see and talk to other pilgrims (the Sercotel in Pamplona, not so much!).    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 9

    To Estella

    September 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    There was more to Puenta la Reina than we realized but had to make do with seeing it on our way out of town. MB and I enjoyed walking most of today's stage chatting with the aforementioned Nancy from L.A., and we continued to run into other familiar faces (like Patty and Sue from Canada). We were so chatty we missed a turn but a kind Italian pilgrim got our attention and redirected us.

    The day's walk went through fields and vineyards and was fairly gentle. Still, after 14+ miles to Estella--then another mile to our hotel--my feet were really aching and we were drenched from sweat and rain and bordering on hangry. As usual, by the time we cleaned up and sat down at the restaurant adjoining our hotel, the kitchen was closed, not to reopen till 8:30 pm!

    Two other pilgrims staying here were in the same boat so we teamed up with Gayle (Raleigh) and David (somewhere near Leeds) and taxied down to the bottom of town to eat at Bar Le Monde. All was fabulous till we learned there were no taxis to take us home. But hey--what's another mile uphill in sandals?

    One highlight: our hotel offered to do our laundry for us. One lowlight: the dryers here don't really do the job. So we've turned every corner of our room into a drying rack hoping we wont have to pack damp clothes in the morning.

    Estella is not quite as picturesque--larger and more modern. That + rain = fewer pics.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    1
    Day 10

    Stage 6: to Los Arcos

    September 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    We had a bit of a head start today because our hotel was on the way out of Estella. We walked with our two new friends, Gail and David, whom you'll see in the photos but probably wouldn't guess is 75 and has walked about a dozen Camino routes.

    The first notable landmark of today's stage is the Fuente del Vino, where the Bodega Irache offers pilgrims a free shell-full of wine for the route ahead. Alas, the tap didn't open till 8 a.m. so we settled for our water.

    We then opted for the less traveled route today, which went through woods and fields and had more modest climbs. We caught breakfast (either the usual potato and egg tortilla or an omelette on a slice of grainy bread) in Luquin at 10 am-ish, where we noted that the trio of Spaniards who always seem to pass us, whistling and humming as they speed past, had fortified themselves with beer and wine. So now we know their secret! Other encounters today included an Australian couple with a 10-month old. The baby either rides on his dad's back or in a sack on mom as she breastfeeds, which she's had to do hourly!

    We arrived in Los Arcos at lunchtime and appreciated the receiving line of goats, chickens and geese that greeted us. Lots of pilgrims gathered at Plaza Santa Maria, just outside the incredibly ornate 12th century church that anchors the town. Our crew enjoyed a *Radler*, which is a refreshing combo of beer and lemonade, and traded contact info as we parted ways. Strange to feel sad saying goodbye to people you have only known 24 hours but you get to know them well in such a short, quality period of time.

    Our hotel is another beautiful rustic house and we have enjoyed just resting in our room while waiting for dinner at 7. It's far enough from the Camino that the owner had to pick us up by the plaza and will deliver us back tomorrow after breakfast. Tomorrow will be a long 17-mile day to Logrono (another reason we said goodbye to Gail and David, both of whom are stopping short of there for their next stays). But the time passes quickly as we meet and talk to so many great people.    Read more

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