Nuremberg

The German railways traditionally run like clockwork. The only problem, though, is no one has wound them for some time. They are working hard to fix things, but the number of trains we saw or experienced running an hour-plus late was huge.

Therefore, we were glad to be done with Munich Hbf, which is in the midst of a huge refurbishment, with construction noise droning on and on and masses of confused and unhappy people trying to find their trains.

Nuremberg Hbf, on the other hand was relatively calm, as we left it for our walk to the Altstadt.

It was a fabulous place.

The walk from the station took us over the attractive River Pegnitz, crossed by bridges all through the city, then up to the Hauptmarkt and Schoner Brunnen, a restored replica of a magnificent, gold 14th-century Gothic-styled fountain.

People were out everywhere for the evening. In the shade of the city walls, near the castle, they were sitting on the cobblestones drinking beers bought from a souvenir shop; when we walked back after dinner they were still at it, but lying on the cobblestones.

The following day we visited the castle, begun in 1227 and part-time residence to a series of Holy Roman Emperors. The gardens were spectacular, as were the views back down over the old town.

For a change from the old stuff, we took a look at Ehekarussel, a fountain built in 1981 to conceal a subway ventilation shaft. It depicts “The Marriage Merry-go-round”, but not in a very positive way; suffice to say public opinion remains divided.

Then, a break from all the pretty stuff - we visited the Documentation Centre, Nazi Party Rally Grounds, located in the bowels of the unfinished Congress Hall, a part of the planned rally grounds complex.

The story of the Nuremberg Rallies and the rise of the Nazis was told in excruciating detail, from the slave labour camps at the quarries where thousands died to supply materials for the building of the rally grounds, to the ingenious use of propaganda and the media to seduce people into believing the lies they were told, to the disenfranchisement and ultimate dehumanisation of whole groups of people.

If ever there was a solid argument for a strong and independent fourth estate, it can be found here.

Finally, we braved the trains again for a trip to Bamberg, a UNESCO-listed city on the Regnitz River, with an interesting town hall built in 1461 on an artificial island in the river, allegedly reclaimed by the citizens in protest at not being granted land by the bishop.

The fast-flowing river is present all through the town, not least in the area known as Little Venice, with 15-century fishermen’s houses lining the river. Not sure about the Venice reference, really, but the whole old town is great to wander around.

We are moving on again, next to Dresden for a few days.Read more