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South-East Asia

września 2014 - marca 2015
  • Claire and Karsten
182-dniowa przygoda według Claire Czytaj więcej
  • Claire and Karsten
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  • Claire and KarstenPodróżnikSouth-East Asia

    Siem Reap

    29 listopada 2014, Kambodża ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    On the way to Siem Reap we came through a village along the shore of the Tonle Sap river. While on the right side of the road everything appeared to be normal - houses, shops, beautiful temples - all those buildings on the left side of te road were built on stilts. To cover the distance of the slope leading from the road to the significantly lower left side they built small, wooden, not at all trustworthy looking bridges.

    Our luxurious bus - playing captain America 2 which we couldn't watch cause our speakers didn't work - drove on a dusty road in mostly bad condition. The traffic on that road led to everything along it being covered in a thick layer of red sand.

    The city Siem Reap itself is a mixed bag, really. The city center is a subdued version of Kuta. The pub street is so touristy that it is funny again. Food is expensive but beers can be had for 50 cents during happy hours...which last all day. Then there are residential areas further north which look pretty much like a Cambodian village. Then there are several beautiful Wats in Khmer style coloured mostly in yellow like in the kings palace. The area around the river is more a commercial center with lots of very nice small shops. If we only had a way of carrying all that nice stuff... ;).

    We made a cooking class on Sunday. It was impressive how the lady instructed 8 people to cook 8 different starters and main courses. But it was also 8 people cooking 8 different dishes so everything was a bit less hands on and less instructions. But the food still turned out great and it was fun.

    We had two great evenings with the british couple - the one we met at the border few days earlier. Yes, Cambodia seems to be a place where we actually have a social life! On the second evening we chose to drink our beers on a cute bridge close to the city center but it seems that this location is actually a meeting place for gays and ladyboys. So it has been sometimes awkward for the guys, having some people sitting very close to them and trying to start conversation.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Claire and KarstenPodróżnikSouth-East Asia
    1

    Angkor Wat

    2 grudnia 2014, Kambodża ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Today, after 4 days in Siem Reap, we finally visited the great temples of Angkor Wat. The most impressive things were a) the size of the structures, Angkor Wat itself is the largest religious building on earth, and b) just how many of those great temples there are on the site.

    So we did as lot's of other tourists do and got up at 4.30 in the morning to try and see yet another sunrise. But quite like Borobudur it was cloudy and it even rained a bit. So, no luck there. But the rising sun managed to push some of the clouds away, so we were able to come away with some nice shots.

    We left the sunrise viewing a bit early to get a head start on the tourist masses which turned out to be a good idea as we were able to see most temples in relative quiet. The first significant chunk of time we spent in Angkor Wat where not a single pillar in this massive structure is left without carvings and the bas-reliefs truly are magnificent. Here, a guide might have come in handy, but we were too scrooge to get one. We managed to get bits and pieces of information by eavesdropping on tours in English, French and German though ;).

    We won't talk you through all the temples we visited (name dropping: Angkor Wat, Phnom Bakheng, Bayon, elephant terrace, Phimenkas, Preah Palilay, Preah Khan, the gates of Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm, Banteay Keri, Pre Rup). But some highlights to be mentioned were the Bayon, Preah Khan and Ta Prohm.

    Claire's favorite was probably the Bayon which we were lucky enough to visit when the light fell perfectly upon the gargantuan faces of some God that were built to more than slightly resemble the king at that time, Jayavarman VII. Karsten's favourite was the Preah Khan (thanks for the tip, Jen and Alex!) which is in some parts covered by very peculiar trees! Ta Prohm was a highlight aswell with the Tomb Raider tree, but that was pretty much the only temple which a bit overrun by tourists in our presence. Really great to see are also the bridges leading up to Angkor Thom with gods and demons holding the handrails of either side. Just be aware that if you visit the temples, be prepared to climb some really steep stairs.

    All in all it we a great and exhausting day. Angkor Wat is absolutely worth the visit! So if you ever visit the area...

    We finished it off with a well deserved foot massage...which was mediocre at best ;).

    Also, we have wayyyyy too many pictures to post them all or just one of every temple...Sorry.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Claire and KarstenPodróżnikSouth-East Asia
    1
    2

    Angkor Wat

    2 grudnia 2014, Kambodża ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Angkor Wat at sunrise picture post

  • Claire and KarstenPodróżnikSouth-East Asia
    2
    2

    Angkor Wat

    2 grudnia 2014, Kambodża ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Upon request some pictures of us. All of course taken in the temples

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  • Claire and KarstenPodróżnikSouth-East Asia

    Siem Reap

    2 grudnia 2014, Kambodża ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Next to being touristy, Siem Reap has some treats to offer. More than anywhere else in Cambodia we were able to find a ton of fair trade and hipster shops exactly to our liking. A lot of them, as well as a good hand full of restaurants are in it for the good cause as they donate their profits to foundations and NGOs!

    Next to that, the city has a vibrant art scene. In one of the arty fair trade shops we found a flyer for the 10th Angkor photo festival. This was awesome as they held several vernissages on consecutive nights here. We were able to visit 2 of them. As they came with a fair share of free drinks even Karsten was happy to go there. Jen and Alex, those would have been the perfect thing to enjoy together!

    The first vernissage was for a cambodian photographer who exhibited the pictures he took as a memorial for the crimes committed under the Khmer Rouge regime. He took pictures of everyday objects that people had to get rid of during that time as they tried everything possible not to be noted and identified by the regime. For example passports and fotos were frantically buried in the ground as they gave away identity and therefore profession of the carrier. If that profession was associated with education it would have meant certain death if officials had found out.

    The second one was for an English photographer who made wildlife trade the center of his work. His photographs depict the cruel consequences of wildlife trade for purposes such as eating, showcasing as trophies and using for traditional medicine.

    If you are still looking for causes to donate to in order to increase your tax deductions, the childsafe network and wildlife alliance are probably worthy causes!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Claire and KarstenPodróżnikSouth-East Asia
    8
    13

    Kratie

    4 grudnia 2014, Kambodża ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Our last day in Siem Reap was spent with looking at cute shops, eating, waiting for the rain to be over etc. In fact we were just killing time as we were waiting for the night bus to leave at 11 PM which we had decided to take to go back to Phnom Penh and then up the Mekong to Kratie. We also went to the "cinema" in Siem Reap and saw the second part of the Hobbits in preparation for the upcoming finale. In this place you can rent a room for 2 to 10 people and watch a movie you choose from a big folder. In your room there are big couches and a large screen. Fun!

    The nightbus had 2 storey of beds being a bit inclined as hospital beds and with security belt at the waist. Good that Karsten made a extended read about it so we were prepared against the cold air-con! The travel could have been comfortable if most of the drive haven't been on a bumpy dust road. Nevertheless, we managed to sleep and, for its purpose, it is definitely better than seats!

    Arriving in the early morning in Phnom Penh, we found a bus to Kratie 2h later. We were not sure how long it would take but hoped for 4h. We had just enough space for legs, which is already great but the air-con was quite weak (always complaining huh ;) So when the bus arrived in Kratie 8h later... we were quite happy to get out of it!

    We are now in a veeery nice hostel organising eco-tourism and being a training center for the local youth (when we can comfortably support good causes, we are always in ;). The shower is amazing, didn't had one like that in months!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Claire and KarstenPodróżnikSouth-East Asia
    1

    Kratie

    6 grudnia 2014, Kambodża ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Yesterday and today we basically spent on bikes. Yes bikes again! I'm telling you, Claire will be a Villo regular when we're back in Brussels!

    Yesterday we took the local ferry for 25 cents to cross the Mekong to the island of Koh Trong. Upon arrival we rented 2 bikes which were barely able to hold up on our trip all around the island. The trip is only 9 km but the bikes, the road and the cows standing on the latter turned it into somewhat of a challenge. The cows here were well fed, in comparison for example to those in Chi Phat. That is what the Mekong does, we guess. Cycling through the island village was nice and from one spot we could see a floating village on the Mekong.

    Today we rented better bikes as we had a trip of roughly 30 km ahead of us. We went up the river to a pool in the Mekong where about 40 Irrawadi dolphins are still living. This highly endangered species can only be found in certain spots in Cambodia and Lao. We rented a small boat and spent an hour watching a group of 3-6 dolphins play in the river. You might wanna do a Google image search on those as they look very peculiar. On the way back we treated ourselves to a coke and some sticky rice and spent the rest of the day planning our trip ahead and napping.

    We're now heading out to our last Cambodian sunset over the Mekong with a couple of Angkor beers. They are really worth it...the sunsets we mean of course.

    After that we'll go to sleep for a last time in Cambodia for as long as the roosters next door let us. They clearly have no clue whatsoever when sunrise is.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Claire and KarstenPodróżnikSouth-East Asia
    1

    Cambodia wrap-up

    8 grudnia 2014, Kambodża ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    - when using transport in Cambodia steer clear of the minibuses. In a car with 10 seats at least 15 people "have space". But this sounds easier than it actually is. When travelling from Koh Kong we asked like 7 times if it we will get a big bus...aaaaaand we got a minibus. And there is just nothing you can do ;)

    - they theoretically drive on the right side but that is even more just a guideline than in the countries we visited before. Wanna turn left and you can't find a whole in the traffic to get to the right side of through road? No worries, just drive on the left side for a while until a hole opens up. Also, the rules for the right of way we technically the same as in non-UK Europe. But de facto it is the right of the stronger vehicle...or whoever makes it into the junction first.

    - wearing a full pyjama on the street for women in the morning and evening is something usual

    - karaoke-style videos in the bus is a thing. But nobody sings...

    - there is landscape to be seen on bus rides between cities! Whereas in other countries along the roads it looks like the whole country is "urban" sprawl, there are green areas with nothing else to be watched from the bus which makes the rides somewhat more enjoyable if it weren't for the stuff described above

    - having a wedding? Just put up a big tent on the street where you can seat your guests

    - grilled spiders and snakes are not so common, opposite to white larvae sold as peanuts

    - the whole covering up on motorbikes for women is not happening here

    - this is dragonfly country!!

    - overall impression: we really, really enjoyed our time here!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Claire and KarstenPodróżnikSouth-East Asia
    2
    13

    Don Det, 4000 islands

    10 grudnia 2014, Laos ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Since Monday we are in Laos. We got on a bus in Kratie and made our way across the border where we only got ripped off for like 2 USD for the visa which is fine.

    Our first stop is Don Det, a small island within the 4000 islands in the Mekong. We stay at lovely mama piangs guesthouse. The food is great, the rooms are nice, the internet is unstable and mama is the best. We spend the days doing nothing and then usually head to the other side of the island to see the sunset with a couple of beers.

    It seems to be customary to meet people on the bus getting here and spend the days here together. We have done the same. Adding other acquaintances it makes for interesting combinations of nationalities at dinner. Yesterday there were Germans, a Norwegian with guitar, an Austrian girl, an Israeli, and a Swiss one, a brit, a French, a Polish, us 2 of course and Mama. Good fun!

    Been there, Don Det!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Claire and KarstenPodróżnikSouth-East Asia
    2

    Don Det

    12 grudnia 2014, Laos ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After 3 days of extreme relaxing we did the complete opposite on our last day on the 4000 islands and went for a full day kayaking trip. Boy, we do feel that in our arms and shoulders today. The trip took us through braided parts of the Mekong - which were really fun to navigate through - to 2 waterfalls and a pool where we spotted the back of another dolphin for like 2 seconds. But the waterfalls were nice and the second one was especially impressive as it is the largest in Southeast Asia volume wise.

    We also want to talk about Mama Piang here, the best guesthouse owner we encountered so far. Funny, loud and with a big heart, she really made our stay on Don Det worthwhile! Everybody loves her and that's why we were a pretty big group enjoying evenings together at Mama Piang.

    Now we are in Pakse, a sleepy yet big city a bit up north. It is pretty chilly here, only like 22 degrees at night. The Laotians are already sporting their longsleeves.     Czytaj więcej

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