• Hic!

    13. mars 2016, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Wine tasting in Valle de Uco near Mendoza was a sumptuous experience resulting in two rather inebriated chicas... Learnt a little about wine production and a lot about how delicious Malbec is 😋

  • Settling in

    12. mars 2016, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We had a short flight westwards yesterday from Córdoba towards the Andes and wine country. There was a great biew of Aconcagua as we landed. Our AirBnB is located just off a street of hip and happening bars which we visited last night. People were actually eating and drinking before us. We are also close enough to Independiente Rivadavia's football stadium thst we could hear the roar from our room when they scored from. Games here start at 9.30 PM.

    Today we walked around the city enjoying the wide streets, green plazas and the lovely parque General San Martín. We've decided there is lots to do here so we are going to stay some extra days. We have booked a wineries tour for tomorrow which we are very excited about.
    Les mer

  • Day trip to Alta Gracia

    10. mars 2016, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    On our way to the bus station this morning we came across a huge gathering of folk on horseback congregating at the main square. No idea why.

    We ventured south of the city to see one of the several Jesuit estancias that have been preserved and given UNESCO World Heritage status in this area. The town of Alta Gracia was also home to Che Guevara during his teens.

    Today is our last full day in Córdoba as we head to Mendoza tomorrow which means wine country, here we come!
    Les mer

  • Back in the city

    8. mars 2016, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Córdoba is Argentina's scruffy beautiful second city. Grand old colonial & Jesuit buildings giving it UNESCO status, but muddled up with ugly new and rundown buildings. Great art galleries, a huge university and lots of cool bars & resaurants. Though most Cordobés don't go out to eat until 10pm so Lisa & I are usually very uncool eating alone at 8.30!

    They celebrated International Women's Day with lots of women artists, including a special exhibition at the Palacio Ferreya which we visited. We joined a swanky reception for this in our tourist shorts and tshirts and almost ended up (in an audience shot) on local TV.
    Les mer

  • Goodbye Patagonia

    6. mars 2016, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    In a bus we drove back the Ruta de los Siete Lagos from San Martín and got to revisit the road we had cycled. We came back to Bariloche for one more night at our B&B with a newly improved view of the lake. Plus we had another lovely dinner with happy hour pints of honey beer at the marvellous Manush.

    Up early to catch a morning flight to Córdoba for four days in Argentina's second city.
    Les mer

  • From glaciers to volcanos

    5. mars 2016, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Took a trip to see Volcan Lanin today. The volcano rises up like a perfect cone with snow topping. On one edge of the lake below called Lake Huechulafquen, there is a solidified volcanic larva 'river' complete with its own unique forest growing on it. Weird and lovely, in a Lord of the Rings sort of way. The day was slightly marred by neverending loud Spanish commentary, many hours on a minibus & an extra hour or so getting towed home as said minibus blew its fan belt.
    But we finished the evening on a high by joining the birthday party for the wife of our host, Diego, and having a very fine steak and wine dining experience.
    Les mer

  • Chilling in San Martín

    4. mars 2016, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We've given the bikes back and decided to spend four days here at a lovely 2 bedroom chalet with a heated communal pool. Yesterday I had a two hour nap (after getting a nasty wasp sting) and we both slept ten hours last night. Today Clare is nursing a bit of a cold so we had coffee by the lake and an afternoon reading by the pool. We have left our swimsuits with the majority of our gear in Bariloche so Clare went swimming in a black bra and pants combo! Off now to have Mexican food.Les mer

  • RLSL day 4 - we did it!

    2. mars 2016, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    Left our chip board cabin on the lake and cycled the final 45km to complete our 240km trip (over 5 days altogether). The last 15km to San Martin de los Andes was all downhill and triumphant! Checked into a lovely airbnb, ate a huge salad (very happy to have vegetables) followed by an enormous ice cream. Plan to stay here for a few days as it's very pretty and doesn't involve any cycling.Les mer

  • RLSL day 3 - Lisa's birthday

    1. mars 2016, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We woke up in our little house on the farm and headed out for our favourite day of cycling. Beautiful scenery, lovely sunshine and lunch at Lago Faulkner - the first place selling food for 75km! Met a South African long distance cyclist who had already cycled 1700km and was into medicinal fungus. After a quite tricky (for Clare) ride in the afternoon sun & wind we found our next stop - a campsite cabin in the woods overlooking Lago Hermoso.

    The closest restaurant was shut (again!) and the campsite shop had run out of burgers and pizza to cook. It only sold bread and huge bottles of beer. So, bread, beer and homemade cheese we'd brought with us from mini Mama's place made up Lisa's birthday dinner! Best of all we got to see the stunning Milky Way from an unpolluted view in the southern hemisphere.
    Les mer

  • RLSL day 2

    29. februar 2016, Argentina ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Well, we thought today was going to be an easy day... We left out gear at the hostel and rode off to find a gravel road to "Villa Traful" - apparently a nice easy ride. Uh huh. Up & down & up again & our lunch stop option was closed. However, with lots of snacks, water refills in crystal clean mountain streams & a paddle in the gorgeous turquoise water of the lake, we made it back, to see the gaucho son of the house riding his horse on the beach. Our information may not quite correct ... but the bikes are great, we're meeting some charming people and Clare is in love with her gel saddle.Les mer

  • Ruta de los Siete Lagos (RLSL) Day 1

    28. februar 2016, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    First day of our bonkers bicycle tour of the Seven Lakes Road. It started with a boat trip to a peninsula, where we biked through lovely old forest - lovely except for the very steep sandy sections and the steps we had to push the bikes up, some of which were unnecessary as we missed the path... Ho hum. Eventually arrived at town called Villa la Angostura for lunch. Then the final 26km turned into over 30k as we thought we'd missed the turning, hadn't, but added several km in the looking... Ho hum again. Altogether 60 km later, with sore butts and in need of food we arrived at our hostel by the lake. It's more like a homestay, with sheep & pigs roaming the garden and a gorgously ancient wooden house. Mama of the house, whose 70th birthday it was that day and who is 4 foot tall, 4 foot wide and charming, made us steak, tomatos & wine for dinner, bless her. There was nowhere else for us to go for miles around before you ask... Hot shower & bed by 9!Les mer

  • Bike tour and Circuito Chico

    27. februar 2016, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Bike test day. Started out on a 20 km guided mountain bike tour on some very bumpy gravel and sandy paths ending at a Swiss style village. Met a lovely San Franciscan, Lauren, who the joined us on the slightly gruelling Chico circuit. About 45 km in all but very undulating. Spectacular lakes and more to come tomorrow.

    Spent the night in a very basic hostel but we had the place to ourselves. Tomorrow we start our bike tour with a boat across the lake to Bosque de Arrayanes.
    Les mer

  • City day

    26. februar 2016, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    (By Lisa) Bariloche is a funny place. We were expecting an Argentine version of Kendal and were very wrong. It is a big, busy town. On the plus side it has banks with functioning ATMs and 21st century wifi.

    We spent the morning in the centre but soon decided to head out and took the 1950's cable car up to Cerro Otto. We had lunch in their Swiss style revolving restaurant at the top while enjoying spectacular views over Lago Nahuel Huapi. The thing moves pretty fast. The other surprise was a Michaelangelo exhibition in the little complex at the summit. It also has a club and a 'microcinema'.

    Our current lake district plan is to go on a guided bike tour tomorrow morning and then explore the lakeshore here. Then on Sunday we saddle up with our gear in panniers for a 4-6 day bike trip around the seven lakes route (ruta de los siete lagos) to San Martin de los Andes and most of the way back. Not going to camp but stay in hostels and little hotels. There will be no wifi or mobile signal, including on my birthday 😢 - but I did take a photo of the cards I received before I left which I can look at.
    Les mer

  • Wow

    24. februar 2016, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    The clouds cleared, Mount Fitz Roy came out to play, the sun shone and we went on a big walk to Laguna de Los Tres. So many wows on the way we felt a little overwelmed.

  • Viedma glacier

    23. februar 2016, Argentina ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    In a trip already full of wows, today was a highlight. Ice trekking on a glacier, with crampons and big grins. We were lucky with a lovely sunny day. As we were on the ice, a vast amount fell from front of the glacier, with great creaks, crashes and spray, and when we went to the front the landscape had totally changed, what was previously a lagoon, was now a lake of ice & icebergs. It was awesome, in the true meaning of that word!Les mer

  • Laguna Torre

    22. februar 2016, Argentina ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    The rain eased up today and we even had some sun so headed out on a 20km ramble. El Chaltén is called the "trekking capital" of Patagonia - there are lots of trails you can take straight from town. Mount Fitz Roy was still hiding, but we had a brief glimpse when the clouds parted! It snowed on us as we ate lunch at the glacier lagoon. Saw a condor very high above us.Les mer

  • In the pub

    20. februar 2016, Argentina ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    So far El Chaltén is very wild, wet and windy. We've spent most of the day snoozing and watching telly. The mountains are there but we can't see them and the wind is shaking the house - so we have come next door to the pub for dinner.Les mer

  • Bus to El Chalten

    19. februar 2016, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ -4 °C

    Epic scenery on the bus ride today. A bit of a treat to be seeing it from the front seats of the top deck! Staying for the next 6 days in our own little house. Guess what? Its really really windy.

  • Torres del Paine Circuit

    18. februar 2016, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    We're back in Argentina having spent the last 7 days camping & hiking in the spectacular Torres del Paine National Park in Chile. Group of 9 of us, 2 guides & 5 porters! Sun, rain, snow & lots of famous Patagonian wind, but overall lucky enough to see most if not all of the views. Condors, kestrels and eagles glided overhead & hares & foxes scurried away. Feet and legs ached and 8 nights camping was a bit of a challenge in the wind & rain. But a fabulous experience & a real sense of achievement. All that training in the home counties area was worth it! We need to download photos from the camera but got a few here.Les mer

  • Upsala glacier and Estancia Cristina

    9. februar 2016, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    This afternoon we disembarked iceberg ship at a very remote ranch settled by Herbert & Jessie from Lamington, Hampshire in the 1920s, they picked a lovely spot! Had a hairy 4x4 drive to get the best view of the Upsala glacier and the bluest blue lake left behind by the retreating glacier. And almost got blown away by the famous Patagonian winds. Met our first gaucho at the estancia (ranch).Les mer

  • Icebergs

    9. februar 2016, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Boat trip to the Upsala glacier today, first stop a sail through icebergs that have calved off the end of the glacier. Some were 10 x the size of our boat - and that is just the bit above the water. Spectacular shapes and colours. Very exciting. Both agreed that watching the huge multi-hued blue one rocking and rolling, was one of the most amazing things we've ever seen, if a little Titanic scary!Les mer

  • Perito Moreno Glacier

    8. februar 2016, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    This glacier is the reason I wanted to come to Patagonia - I got quite emotional when I first saw it today. Beautiful and awe inspiring. We were very lucky to see a slab of ice, the size of a house, calve off and fall into the lake as we we on the boat 😃Les mer

  • Leaving BA

    7. februar 2016, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We've had a lovely time, even with the side trips to the dentist, but it's time to leave the capital city. We are getting on a plane for 3.5 hours to fly to El Calafate and start the first Patagonia bit of the trip. Leaving behind the sunshine and heat for cool and probably rainy lakes and mountains.Les mer

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