Hike Day 2 - Vila Da Conte to Rates

We began Day 2 with a full American breakfast—eggs or omelets, a rarity in local restaurants. By 8:45 a.m., we were on our way, starting with a steep climb up a cobblestone hill. At the top, we encountered a remarkable sight: a historic monastery that has been transformed into a stunning hotel. A large aqueduct led into the town and stretched right up to the monastery. As we departed Vila do Conde, we followed the aqueduct for two miles. Along the way, we noticed at least two homes that had cleverly integrated the aqueduct's pillars into their architecture.

As we left the city, we experienced our first rain of the trip. We quickly donned our rain gear and pressed on, stopping briefly for a photo. Hoping to include everyone, we searched for someone to take it. A man nearby saw us and eagerly approached. "Great," we thought, "now Dale can be in the picture too." To our surprise, the man joined our group for the photo rather than taking it! You can spot him in the photos above, wearing a red coat. He spoke only Portuguese, while we knew no Portuguese ourselves, so communication was limited to smiles and laughter. This unexpected encounter reminded us that this pilgrimage is not just about completing a 126-mile hike, but also about connecting with others along the way.

The rain soon cleared, and we continued our walk on the cobblestone path, which proved more challenging than yesterday's boardwalk. We passed rows of homes with beautiful landscaping and colorful driveways made of inlaid tiles. However, we were less fond of the many guard dogs that barked at us ferociously. After a short break at the three-mile mark, we stopped again for ice cream at the four-mile point—the only store we encountered that day.

The most enjoyable part of today’s walk was the transition to the countryside. The cobblestone streets gave way to dirt roads, and we found ourselves walking through a forest of eucalyptus trees, passing farms and cornfields. We likely would have lost our way if not for Dale's GPS and excellent navigation skills. Interestingly, we encountered no other hikers today. At the six-mile mark, we took a break in a bus stop shelter and held a much-needed foot-rubbing session. This refreshed us as we pressed on through rocky, rugged terrain. Eventually, we emerged from the woods and fields and descended into San Pedro de Rates, our destination for the day.

Back on cobblestone streets, we paused to rest on benches outside a monastic church before heading to our beautiful hostel, Casa Anabela. To our delight, we discovered a clothesline—perfect for some quick handwashing and line drying. Being Sunday, the town was quiet with few open stores or restaurants. Fortunately, we found a nearby restaurant for a delicious dinner to close out the day.

Today’s walk on the Camino was filled with historical wonders, natural beauty, delightful encounters, and moments of joy—all contributing to an unforgettable pilgrimage experience.

Today’s blog is written by Marian Yoder.Baca selengkapnya