Portuguese Camino 2024

Today’s post by Marian Caroselli.

Professor Higgins, you were wrong. The rain in Spain doesn’t stay mainly in the plains—it follows the Portuguese Camino, too. Our prayers for rain to end the fires have been answered, and then some.

Today marked our final day walking the pilgrim’s route to Santiago. After a 6:30 breakfast, we set out before sunrise, headlamps on, wrapped in all sorts of rain gear. The path was challenging—strewn with large stones, tree roots, and poorly marked signs—so Debbie took the lead with her expert navigation, while Dale consulted his apps as needed. The darkness made spotting the way even harder, but we managed. We saw fewer pilgrims today; many had pushed on through yesterday to avoid the rain.

This was our hardest day yet, with the rain relentless from start to finish. Staying dry was impossible, as the water swept away our footing and carved new streams and ponds along the trail. Our initial attempts to leap across puddles quickly gave way to wading straight through them. The torrents we witnessed seemed to demand that we name each new creek and pond we encountered.

Still, we made excellent time, arriving at the Cathedral around noon. We were able to quickly secure our compostelas, benefiting from our small group size. We paused for photos in front of the Cathedral, capturing the culmination of our journey. Dale then made sure everyone was settled in their lodging for the night.

After a quick shower and laundry session, we headed out for food, a stroll through the city, and some time at the Cathedral. Dale and Marian C. were especially nostalgic, having finished in Santiago on previous Caminos.

Dale will head to Porto tomorrow to meet Christine, while Marian Y flies to Madrid for a flight home to Philly. Debbie and Marian C. will stay an extra day to enjoy more of this beautiful city.

There are many ways to interpret today. Is it an end or a beginning? A testament to physical endurance, or to spiritual resilience? Does it have to be either-or?

Each of us has approached this Camino in our own way. While physical preparation was necessary, life threw its own curveballs, and we all faced personal challenges along these 130+ miles. Some saw themselves more as hikers, others as pilgrims. Perhaps that shifted over time, or maybe it’s intertwined.

What’s clear is that we’ve supported each other, learned from one another, and deepened our connections. We’ve gained a better understanding of the spirituality that shapes each of our lives.

In normal circumstances, it can be hard to spend extended time with someone whose habits or beliefs differ from your own. But out here, removed from the pressures of daily life, we found a greater openness and acceptance, a feeling amplified by the camaraderie of fellow pilgrims from around the world. We've come to see how alike we truly are.

Yes, we had hoped for sun on our final stretch into Santiago, perhaps as a sign that God had accepted our efforts. But we're reminded that Santiago is really a beginning, not an end. How will we carry this spirit into the world? What has changed within us, and what do we still need to work on? The pilgrimage isn't over—it's just starting.

Seeing the spires of the Cathedral grow closer is like watching a beacon in the night. You feel drawn toward them, and the pain and fatigue you've been carrying seem to fade. The sound of bagpipes welcoming thousands of pilgrims each day sends chills down your spine. We've made it. Arms and trekking poles raised, we join the chorus of jubilation in the square, surrounded by elated pilgrims from all over the world.

We’ve come to both an end and a beginning.Les mer