Krka National Park

After leaving our harborside town of Novigrad, we drove south past an agricultural area with olives, nectarines, grapes, cherries and a field of yellow Chamomile flowers for making massage oils. This was a mainly Serbian area, and again there was evidence of bullet-riddled homes and some vacant ruined stone homes. These days they are rebuilding with red brick-like cinder blocks, then covering with stucco. The stucco is painted with earth tones or white, which fits in with the limestone surroundings. Roofs are always red clay tiles. There are signs of rebuilding everywhere, with the aid of EU grants. Also along the drive we passed some 15th century castles from the time of the Ottoman Empire.

When we got to Krka National Park, we could see why it, too, attracts 1 million visitors a year. Similar to Plitviče, it has a series of lakes connected by waterfalls. It was very beautiful, but so much more crowded because all these visitors had to fit into a smaller area. One of the highlights was an "ethno-village," which was less crowded. A woman was weaving on a loom (sheep wool), there was a blacksmith forge, and we walked through a reconstructed hydroelectric plant and grain mill. This was the second hydroelectric plant to come online in the world, just two days after the first one--on Niagara Falls--in 1895. Both plants were based on the designs of Nikola Tesla, born in Croatia. The Krka plant was in operation until WWI, when it was dismantled for armaments. Only in 2006 did they do archival research to reconstruct it.

Another delicious traditional lunch was enjoyed by a rushing river: prosciutto and something that was like thin bacon that they called ham, local cheese, salad and bread, and wine or beer (grappa at the beginning of course). There was plenty of time for a relaxing swim in the cool river.

We ended the day at Skradin, a harborside town with pedestrian-only streets. We hiked a short distance to the remains of a 14th century fortress (about the size of our house). Nice cool breeze and beautiful views from there.Read more