Montalcino and Brunello Wine Tasting

For our last full day in Montepulciano, we explored the lower part of the town and then set off in the car to do the Brunello Wine driving tour in Rick Steves’ book, and to visit the village of Montalcino. The region surrounding the village is the center of activity for Brunello wine production. A tasting room is located in the old fort of the city. We were able to climb a tower and get panoramic views from up on the walls.

After climbing down, we received a nicely curated wine tasting (with local pecorino cheese and bread sticks) and learned a lot. The wine is produced in very small batches, and for the wines we tasted, the grapes are hand picked—grape by grape. There are all kinds of rules about whether a wine can be called Brunello, resulting in a 15-year period before you can sell your first bottle. No wonder the wines we tasted cost 90 euros and up for a bottle.

Later in our countryside drive, we visited a winery and olive oil tasting/producing estate and heard a great story. The estate has origins that date back to the 17th century when it was founded by a local abbot, mainly for olive oil production. Eventually, in the mid-1800s it was sold to a wealthy land owner, who had one offspring, a daughter (Elda). Elda fell in love with a “poor” count (Alberto Piccolomini), a direct descendent of Pope Pius II. Elda’s family wasn’t happy about the match (because Alberto was older—didn’t look a lot older to us in their wedding photo—and because he was poor). Alberto’s family didn’t like the match because Elda wasn’t from noble birth. So, when Elda died in 1985 (as the last survivor of the couple), she snubbed both families and left the estate to her farm manager, who had no idea! Giuseppe then expanded from primarily olive oil production to wines. The estate is still run by his family.Read more