• Dutton Diaries
set 2016 – mar 2017

Southern Hemisphere Travels

Un’avventura di 172 giorni di Dutton Diaries Leggi altro
  • The Ruakuri Reserve and Caves

    5 novembre 2016, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    This morning was basically a write off. We searched for free wifi hot spots to try and sort out our phone insurance but then realised that the iPhone isn't very compatible with sending PDFs via email and so then went on search of an Internet cafe. Turns out that in the 8 years since I came here before, the invention of the smart phone has basically made the Internet cafe redundant, they are no more! 😵😩 fortunately I had the brainwave to ask in a hostel and fortunately they were kind enough to let us use a computer for free. Finally managed to sort it all out so fingers crossed they are happy and we will have no phones once in Oz!

    So that brought us to about 2pm and our plan for the day was ruined. After pizza and a delicious chocolate and fudge muffin (thank you Countdown!) we decided to just head down the route we had planned for the day.

    First stop some rose gardens in Te Awamutu. Apparently they are really nice but I think that cant quite have reached full bloom yet. Some beautiful colours, but not quite enough of them and the garden itself was very small after yesterday's visit to Hamilton Gardens. We didn't hang around for long and decided that our next planned stop at Otorohanga for the Kiwi House bird sanctuary was now pointless as we would only get an hour a half to enjoy it (thank you supercover insurance 😠😒😖😤). We are determined to see a Kiwi at some point!

    So the next real stop was at the Ruakuri Reserve. We weren't sure what to expect as ww had just read it was a nice short walk.... it was awesome! The whole area around here is a large limestone cave system and the famous Waitomo Caves, which we didn't want to pay the earth to visit (the main attraction is glow worms and we have seen some already), are close by. This part we learnt (despite Rob mocking me for my need to read all the info signs) was once a large cave system too but over time and with rain the rocks have eroded and fallen in to create a large rocky area that is now more jungle than anything else. There are great walls as remnants of the cave walls that look a lot like brickwork and these are laced with green plants and ferns. The trees have vines and strands of bushy plants hanging down from their branches and they are covered in green mosses. It felt so much like being in the jungle book! Very different to the amazon jungle, much smaller and more tropical looking trees. A stream ran alongside us and we found our first remnant of a cave opening. I did a bit of climbing to a hole higher up but didn't have enough light to explore any further, we decided to come back with a torch after the walk.
    We walked through more jungle and then up a lot of steps to what was called the natural tunnel viewing platform (we had no idea what this was). We eventually came to a tunnel that had been carved through the stone by water and was now dry, just waiting for us to meander through. Once through a wooden platform hugged the edge of the rock and looked down to the stream now running below us. We were already impressed by this and didn't expect anything more...we had just walked through a tunnel... but there was more to come! Up more steps and around more turns we came to a small cave opening and once inside it revealed lots of smooth bit bumpy limestone walls with stalactites and stalagmites running down the sides and clinging to the roof. A wooden platform jutted out further inside the cave and this revealed a HUGE cabe/tunnel. I guess it is a tunnel but the size of it made it seem more like a cave. We were so high already yet it stretched up and around from us with a fast stream running through the bottom and echoing in the cave. Such a cool place and better still... free! The way back to the car revealed more views of the stream and evidence of the old cave, all now enveloped by the awesome jungle.
    We finished the walk and picked up a torch to explore the cave we saw before. This time I was able to go much further and it turned out to be another cave with a section closed off to the public inside. We were able to explore some parts though and Rob found an awesome hidden area with loads of stalactites/mites (we don't know what they're called when they meet in the middle).

    After journeying once again back to the car it waa now time to head to the campsite. We enjoyed more shiresque scenery and google directed us along many winding roads all the way to a three way fork that just led to three different farm houses, not our campsite :/. After some backtracking we eventually found it, but Rob was driving too fast to stop and turn...sooooo, after yet more backtracking, we arrived at the free camp for the night, a lovely spot in the Mangaokewa Reserve just by a small river and surrounded by a bluff that used to belong to a cave and some jungle covered forest. We had some silly Americans drive through like yobs and set off fireworks, fortunately they didn't stay long and it didn't Interrupt our incredible badminton playing 😝

    And now I am sat in the camper with a beautiful starry sky to look at and some nice fireworks that a fellow camper has brought for bonfire night 🤗😊😬😃
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  • On route to Rotorua

    6 novembre 2016, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    The planned morning walk was once again squandered by rain 😠we had actually decided to just brace the elements but then a car with two dodgy looking fellows turned up a couple of times in the space of half an hour and we decided it wise not to leave the car.

    So we headed off instead towards Rotorua. It was a bit of a longer drive than usual and we stopped half way for lunch where we decided to take a detour to a river that the Lord of the Rings location guide said was beautiful (despite it not actually being used as a location). We chose the shorter walk so we could still get to Rotorua and started o. The Waitamo River and Blue Springs walk. It started as just some lovely hills and golden green grasses with the sound of birds in the grass and wind through the trees from the top of the hills. In didn't take long before we saw why this place was called the Blue Springs and why it was a recommended walk. To the left the river came into view. Not very wide and not very fast flowing, just a calm stream of water running gently through the valley. The river is apparently deceptively deep but the clear water means you can see all the way to the bottom and this clarity is what gives it the wonderfully turquoise blue colour. It is so surreal and I have never seen anything like it. With the bright green leafy reeds that wave in in the currents beneath the water, attached to the rocks along the riverbed it just looks like a little paradise.
    We carried along the route and within another 20 minutes of following this beautiful river we came to the spring. It was on the other side and was almost a small cove along the edge of the river that was backed by a large hill and surrounded by palms, making it look like a miniature tropical cove. Here there was a ring of even deeper blue water where the spring was fuelling the river with water that had taken up to 100 years to get here, explaining the purity. The pictures on here don't quite do it justice... the extremely vivid green one may look super green but the blue colour in the photo is exactly how it looked!
    Fantail birds flitted amongst the branches here and they are becoming my favourite birds the way they dart about in the air and leap from branch to branch... never still enough for a picture!

    After a while here just enjoying the view we headed on to do a bit more of the walk before heading back to the car for some food....I was so hungry!

    After this was the drive to Rotorua and to find a fuse for the broken in car charger. No phone was not proving to be very fun. Not much to say for the rest of this day. It rained a lot, we went to many shops before buying another charger for the phone and then decided to have a Pizza Hut for tea before finally being able to find the camp we had previously saved on the phone.

    Lovely camp... great facilities and as it was raining we had a couple of games of pool and watched some actual TV before bed :)
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  • Steaming pools & bubbling mud in Rotorua

    8 novembre 2016, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    A sunny day at last! Finally we get to enjoy a day in Rotorua, one of the places I remember well from my last trip here. I loved it the last time I came 8 years ago, despite the smell of bad eggs, and was looking forward to Rob getting to see all the awesome geothermal geography here.

    We headed to Wai-O-Tapu in the late morning which is described as a geothermal wonderland, full of steaming geysers, colourful lakes and large terraces with bubbling mud pools close by.
    The place is incredible, you walk on a boarded walkway around part of this huge geothermal area viewing large and steaming collapsed craters, with crystallised yellow sulphur minerals on the walls as well as small funeroles letting out lots of steam. You stand looking down into them, barely able to make out the bubbling liquid mud inside due to the steam, but you can hear it. The sound of thick bubbles popping and splurting at the surface. It's really loud and you can imagine just how hot it must be, definitely a reminder of how alive the earth is below the surface.

    Some of the most beautiful sites though were the steaming pools here. In particular the champagne pool, a beautiful blue green colour with bright orange mineral deposit edges. It soiled into another pool of oranges, yellows, greens and a bit of purple and the colours from the viewing platform looked incredible. The steam would blow in the wind and at times if it was still, you could barely see the beautiful colour beneath. When the wind blew a beautiful picture beneath became visible, ever changing with the wind direction. So awesome!
    We could walk over this too on a boarded platform without any sides so you could really appreciate it all. There were dark brown pools too (the devils ink wells) which were coloured due to crude oil. And then the huge lake at the end, a brilliant turquoise green surrounded by forest, the odd bit of steam visible on the land at areas around the edge.

    In addition to all of this was the beautiful forest surrounding these pools. Manuka and kanuka forests (tea tree) which have a gorgeous orange algae growing all over them. Very strange and very pretty. The odd redwood was present too, but we were planning to visit the nearby redwood forest in the afternoon!

    After completing the walk here we headed out and down the road a few hundred meters to the free mud pools. These were also awesome. Vey thick, bubbling mud erupting amongst more liquid mud in a fairly large pool. You could see the areas of thick hot mud, bubbling a little bit for a minute of two and then suddenly erupting with large bubbles and splurts of mud, about a meter high. Really awesome to both watch and listen to!

    Really hard to put this whole place into words. Just a beautiful place. So glad we are here off season too as it was also quiet enough to really get to take it all in. With the blue skies too it was a bonus!
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  • Redwoods and lakes in Rotorua

    8 novembre 2016, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    After the beautiful pools we headed to a redwood forest close to the town to see them in all of their glory. These aren't quite on the same scale as those in California as they weren't planted long enough ago bite nevertheless they are biiiiig! Most are over 60m high and although some are still quite skinny, the older ones are very impressive to stand next to. You find youse self craning your neck the whole time to try and see them. Part of the forest we walked through contained other trees from the area too and lots of bush, which we wandered around with an ice cream. On the way to the car though we saw another section of forest that was beautiful.... pure redwood, nothing else there, just a red floor and then tree trunks of thick cracked bark. It looked amazing! We took some photos whilst some children tried to ruin them with a game of hide and seek (best place for it as the trees are great to hide behind) and then headed to the car to visit the green and blue lakes.

    The green and blue lakes were, granted, green and blue. But after the pools we had seen earlier and the bright blue spring the other day, they did just look a lot like ordinary lakes on a beautiful day as they were so dark. Nevertheless they are still beautiful though and surrounded by the green forests which makes the blue pop even more. Wish we had had time for a swim but we needed to get back to camp whilst light and have a go at fixing the cigarette lighter (we think a fuse has blown and it is our only means of charging stuff on the road 🙁).

    Unfortunately we can't locate the fuse as it's all in Japanese so we are going to head to a garage tomorrow.
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  • Tarawera falls!

    9 novembre 2016, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Today started out with a journey to fix the cars cigarette lighter socket. Fortunately, the first garage we went to on the advice of the camp owner was more than happy to fix it there and then. He showed us what to do if it happens again and gave us some spare fuses too ☺️ fingers crossed we won't need them though!
    After this we headed to Rotorua town centre to try and get some wifi and have a bit of a wander. The sun had now come out and it was turning into a blazing hot day...yay!! So nice to see the sunshine after all the rain.
    It is a lovely little town and I like that there seem to be al many more independent shops and cafes here. The green areas are abundant, with beautiful dark red trees dotted about and catching the light.
    We had lunch by the lake and watched the scenic helicopter take off and land before heading along the lakeside to an interesting looking building we had spotted on our drive in.

    It was a Maori meeting house and Anglican Church and it looked very alpine, especially with the backdrop of the blue lake, distant mountains and green trees 🌲it was a really beautiful meeting house. Lovely, intricate carvings and colour made all the more awesome but the odd bits of thermal steam coming out of the ground.

    After this we headed on a drive to Tarawera Falls as we had read in a magazine that this was a great spot and would be great for a good photo too. We went to get our permit to enter the forest first and after that it was a drive along dusty gravel roads through pine forests, with the odd logging truck to be mindful of. We still love driving on the gravel because it makes you look cool with all the dust billowing behind you. Makes you feel like a speed demon at just 60kph 😁😬😃

    We arrived at the falls car park and were told by some people leaving that people were swimming so we packed some stuff for that too... just in case!
    The walk along was through what seemed like jungle and forest and we saw the people
    Swimming in the river. Their response told it was freezing and we thought twice about it! Plus it was a strong current in fairly deep water, maybe not worth the risk! It looked so
    Enticing though, a brilliant pale blue that was very clear and looked beautiful against the green jungle that came right up to the edge of the running water.

    Instead we continued to the falls and it wasn't too long before we got there. They were amazing! So much larger than we had expected as the photo we had seen was of riverbed falls...this was bursting out of the cliff from several places both low and high, the highest falling in a long thin chute, the lower ones closer together spraying outward. We did a bit of clambering to get closer than the lookout and got some amazing long exposure photos that look very beautiful and surreal. And then we sat for a bit to enjoy the beauty of the place with no one else around us before heading back to camp.

    The journey home was a little tiresome as we got stuck in traffic, but on the plus side we followed an online tip and found a spot to view one of the geysers you normally pay to see. It was through some railings, granted, but it was free and the geyser was pretty cool, spurting out steam up high.

    Oh and I almost forgot, we were also able to follow the election at this point and we were becoming more and more concerned as the minutes went on. Back at camp we were refreshing the news in disbelief as trump seemed to be gaining ground and we ended up watching the rest on the TV. The only humerus thing was the New Zealand news casters who did really hide their feelings and their own disbelief on the matter.

    We had a drink to commiserate the result and some games of pool to cheer ourselves up before bed.
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  • Aratiatia Rapids and Huka Falls

    10 novembre 2016, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    This morning was an early start as we had to get off and head to the Aratiatia dam for half 9 in time for gates opening at 10. This is the first location from the hobbit films, outside of hobbiton, that we have been to and we were looking forward to it. For those who have seen the hobbit, we believe it is in the second movie that they are sent downstream in barrels and this is where they filmed it with a load of empty barrels.

    We got there with half an hour to spare and so checked out the two viewing points to get the beat view and shot of the Rapids. When we arrived the stream was just that, a little stream between a narrow gorge that was made up of green moss coloured rocks and jungle. We could see the dam gates in the distance and got our cameras set up along with the few other people there. The siren rang out with 10 and then 5 minutes to go and Rob had a panic when he realised his memory card as almost full and the blank one didn't want to work 😩(the panic made worse by the sound of the siren! Sounds like an air raid).

    Finally we were all ready with video and time lapse prepped and we waited. Eventually at pretty much bang on the dot the siren rang out again, this time for much longer and it felt a bit like the end of the world (the girl next to me who turned out to be American commented at this point that it kinda felt like that to her after the vote...oops!)

    Back to the amazing spectacle though! Water gushed out the gates and we all waited a good few minutes before you could begin to see it fill up a large natural pool in the distance, and then heat it as it spilled over the edge of this and down into the stream. The water just rose up and up, from a dark blue to a beautiful pale blue mixed with white water. It looked incredible and the difference a few minutes made was unreal. It was a totally different picture now and after taking plenty of photos we stood, watching and listening to the roar and imagining little dwarves inside barrels. We sat and watched as t started to go down again too, slowly returning to the little stream it once was. Very glad we made it for the dam release!

    After this we headed to Huka Falls just down the road. I remembered this from my last trip and just remember the roaring torrent of white water that seemed to charge through a natural and very thin channel between two parts of a rather gentle river. Rob was a bit surprised as for a waterfall these do appear more like rapids, but you can't help but once again be amazed by it. So incredibly loud and the colour again is just so beautiful. At the end of what appears to be Rapids, but is very shallow falls, you get the larger fall at the very end that spills out into the river downstream. This part looks a lot more like a waterfall and the power from the water is very obvious. The water here around the falls is a very pale blue and white, gradually fading in swirls into the the dark blue waters of the river.
    Rob was there with the tripod, as was another man with whom an acknowledging look of tripod nerdiness was shared (his wife also looked at me in a .... you will always be waiting for the photo kind of way lol). The photos though are so worth the nerdiness, they look great and hopefully I can put them on here soon!

    We also tried from here to get to a natural cave that we had heard about online. We found the route but it was a bit too treacherous. I got half way down some rocks where someone had secured a rope, before realising the drop down was too high to get back up for me. Rob then had a go and made it down but said the rest of the path was too dangerous so we gave it a miss. Never mind!

    Back to the van for lunch and then off to Lake Taupo for a wander around and to figure out where to stay before walking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in the morning.
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  • Pictures of aratiatia and huka falls

    10 novembre 2016, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Just another post so I can share more photos! Love the ones rob has managed to take of the waterfalls... very surreal!

  • Oh what a beautiful morning!..oh..wait..

    11 novembre 2016, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Urgh 😔😩🙁😫😣 so much rain!!!!! Rain, rain, rain and fog. Just what you want at 5am when your day plan is to hike the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. This is a walk we have looked forward to since before we set off and it is just our luck that this rain isn't even due to leave tomorrow, which would be our last opportunity. I feel like all I have done is listen to the rain pattering on the roof for hours through the night, just hoping it might ease.

    But here we are at 8am and still it rains. Fortunately we are cosy and warm in the camper with a pre made breakfast...unfortunately I could no longer put off the task of task of braving the rain for the toilet 😔 it is unpleasant. The rain is coming from every angle and the fog means you cannot even tell that Mordor is just in the distance. On a good day the walk gets freezing and windy so on a day like this it would be silly to go. Fortunately the campsite bus does not make you pay to cancel a booking if you decide you don't like the look of the weather (unlike others), they also won't go themselves if they think it is bad so probably couldn't have anyway.

    As the forecast is rain tomorrow too, and this is the same for Mt Taranaki (the lonely mountain that we also really wanted to see) we are, I think, just going to head to Wellington instead. We will just have to put this on the list of places to return to!

    I am now going to try and get Rob to wake up from his cosy cocoon!
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  • A day of driving

    11 novembre 2016, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    After waking up to a crappy morning of rain and fog and deciding it probably wasn't going to be fun or safe to do the Tongariro Crossing, we snoozed our alarm and headed back to sleep. Or at least Rob did... I couldn't get back to sleep and so listened to the rain for three hours. Eventually yet was time to leave though, we cancelled our second night due to continuing rain and were also informed that the coach to the walk had been cancelled that morning due to the weather, so we made the right choice to stay in bed. Pretty gutted though, Rob far more than me, as this means no views of Mordor 😔We have also decided to skip the Lonely Mountain, known in reality as Mt. Taranaki, which is literally the most perfect volcano you will probably ever see, just look it up as a picture or a map and you will see. The topographical maps are the best 😬

    Anyhow we set off on our way to Wellington instead. The weather wasn't great and the roads weren't either. We drove along a mountain road that had various roadworks on it where it seemed the road had just fallen down the edge of the mountain side. The rain has been waaaay higher than any previous record this winter and equates to 7 meters since May!!😵😵 so it's not a surprise the cliff/mountain edges have been sliding off! Not great for driving though. We did however see several peacocks on our drive which was unusual, just roaming around like pheasants. The views again we great, even in the cloud. It is quite mountainous here and we were fairly high so had a nice view of the range. The fact they are mostly grass for grazing now also means every edge and hill on the mountain is obvious, not hidden by trees or scrub, and you can see how interesting all the lines and shapes are of the rock that lies beneath. Very cool.

    The rest of the day was a bit boring, the scenery became much flatter as we neared the coast and apart from a lunch stop it was pretty much all driving. The lunch stop was nice though, a nice beach with small dunes where we got to feed lots of sparrows, including a particularly brave one that I managed to train to keep coming back to me... very cute.

    Now it is late and we are in a strange campsite that is one of few around Wellington. It is pretty much a car park with little privacy, but cheaper than a hotel! Oh and after 50 minutes on the phone we have FINALLY managed to get our phone insurance approved! Taken way too much effort but so glad it is finally done!

    Anyhow, it is sleep time now. Wellington in the morning!
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  • More rain in Porirua

    12 novembre 2016, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Woke up to more torrential rain and it was just too nice to stay in bed and out of the wet. We stayed in bed until midday and made a break for it in the five minutes of slightly less rain that we had that day.
    Such a wash out day. In the end we headed to the cinema to see Dr Strange (awesome movie!) and then slumped back to camp to make dinner.

    Was pretty busy in the kitchen due to the rain but we had our speciality rice with soup. The most exciting part of the night was probably discovering that chunky steak soup might be even more delicious than chicken soup!

    We had a chat with Henry, a man from Holland who was also in the dining room, and shared lots of travelling stories. Turned out he was also headed to the South Island and was on our ferry. We said goodnight after a good couple of hours and finally we had some slight ease of rain which made getting ready for bed much more pleasant.
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  • Sunshine, Weta and friends in Wellington

    13 novembre 2016, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Woke to a bit of rain this morning but not where near like the the downpours have gotten used to!
    We had a tour of the Weta Cave workshop booked and so were up and ready for 9.

    We arrived for Weta a little early and had a look around the shop and mini museum there. Weta Caves for those who don't know (I had no idea until Rob told me) is where they do all the modelling and costume making for films like lord of the rings, district 9, King Kong and several others! Obviously we were most interested in the lord of the rings and the models they had on display in the entrance (the only place we are allowed to take pictures) were awesome! So much detail it is incredible and actually quite scary to get up close to!

    The tour itself took about an hour and we were given props to hold, for example the gun from district 9, which was super heavy and a dwarves mace from the hobbit. We were also told lots of stories about the movies and things we might not know. For example over 3000 arrows were made for Lord of the Rings and they only got 200 back... you may find us now hunting for them in the forests! It is also incredible to see how much time and money is spent on some things, for them never to be used! An animatronic head and a massive model of a districts 9 alien both just sat there unused. Oh and not forgetting the halo car that is fully functional, can drive sideways at 80mph (whaaat!???) and just looks awesome... again not used due to the film now no being made. It did get an outing as a wedding car though! They just had to remove the gun.

    It was interesting and slightly horrifying too to learn how they do the face casts, everything is moulded rather than put on as makeup (including for hands and feet) and for the faces they have so have their entire face covered in an awful mould that they must sit encased it from head to mid chest for an hour!! Then they have to peel it off and it is so tight it pulls out hairs. Sounded awful! And poor Elijah Wood have to have his done every 6 months as he was so young his face kept on changing. We also learnt that has the two film
    Companies for lord of the rings and the hobbit are different, they cannot use inspiration from lord of the rings, despite the fact that they had already done all the concept work for it and clearly the two films have huge crossovers. Can't have been easy to manage that.

    After the tour and another look around we headed to Wellington to meet Robs friend Dave who he used to work with. Him and his fiance, Rachel, took us out for lunch right by the Bay which was lovely and we had some delicious food to the sound of the waves. Really lovely couple and considering I hadn't met either of them before we got on really well very quickly.
    After lunch they drove us to a fantastic look out over the city. Super windy up there though, hence the lonely wind turbine that Rachel told us her nephew thought was amazing enough to be classed as a world famous monument in his school project 😄

    We headed into town once we decided it was far too cold to stay up on the lookout, despite the sunshine, and instead we went to a bar that was run by one of their friends called the Olive Garden. Really nice place but unfortunately we couldn't take advantage of their sun terrace due to a 1 year olds birthday party. Strange place to be having one of those but never mind!
    Had some lovely craft beers and I had a cider which with a bit of lime was delicious!
    At the second bar we were informed that we had all been invited to James and Justines house (who own the bar) for BBQ lamb, which we definitely could not resist!

    We headed over there later in the day and met Justine and their their three children. Lovely family and we all got on very well which was nice. Dinner was fantastic, beautiful lamb with delicious salads and strawberries and cream for dessert! Yum! Was having a lovely evening and as it got a bit later Justine and James offered up their driveway for us to camp the night, which was very kind of them considering we had knelt just met, and it also meant I could enjoy a glass of wine.

    Eventually after a lot more chatting it was about time to head to bed, especially for those with work in the morning and we needed to be on the 9am ferry to the South Island, where we planned on heading to Kaikoura.

    And that was when the Earthquake struck..... which I will describe in a seperate post!
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  • More photos from Weta Cave!

    13 novembre 2016, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Just a few more of the awesome models!

  • A shakey night!

    14 novembre 2016, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    So this was when the earthquake struck. Since the quake, from talking to people, it would seem the experience varied considerably depending on where people lived and the type of house they lived in. Some felt the shake but nothing so bad as to make things fall and others, like us, felt like the house was going to collapse. I will just tell it as it played out as best I can along with a few bits we have since learnt. One thing for sure that news coverages misses out an awful lot!

    The first I knew of the earthquake was hearing Justine say "oh, is that an Earthquake?" I had just finished putting on shoes and started walking and couldn't feel anything before then, Rachel though agreed and when I stopped I could feel the shake under my feet. It very quickly went from a rumbling shake at this point to a heavy, rolling, lurching movement which had Justine running to the doorframe yelling that "oh shit, this is a big one".
    We just blindly followed suit, having no idea what to do in a quake and just in panic mode really. I remember gripping the doorframe with Rob infront of me and Justine, who I couldn't really see, in front of him, all three of us squished in and trying to stay upright. It was hard to stay balanced and I looked across the room to see Rachel hiding under the pinball table by the glass doors that led outside. She was just crying out for Dave, her fiancé, in a panic, who seemed to have followed James to the other side of the room to be near the kids and shelter in their bedroom door frames.

    The lurching once again got worse and it felt a lot more now like we were lurching and rocking/shaking all at once. You could hear the house shaking and the feeling of the violent rocking was so frightening. This was also when things started to fall. Right by us was the shelving unit with bottles of expensive alcohol and other such things which slid off their shelves and smashed on the floor by our feet. I remember involuntarily wailing in surprise and fear at this point as each thing fell and just trying to cover my face with my arms just in case. There was fish tank between us and Rachel and the fish tank lid kept lifting up violently with water spilling out all over the floor. This was one reason for Rachel's panic and crying out. She was at floor level, with nothing to grip onto, a pinball table lurching about above her, glass bottles smashing at her eye level and a glass door that could have smashed beside her head at any time. I just remember her sounding more panicked at this point and hearing Dave yell loudly at her (I now know he yelled at her not to move as she had asked about running to him, a bad move during a quake), and then she just fell silent. Just the noise of the rumbling quake and the entire house shaking now.

    It seemed to go on and on and on and on, at the point everything was smashing around us I felt quite sure the house couldn't possibly keep holding out and was just terrified it was going to collapse on us all. Talking to everyone since, I wasn't the only one, it was incredibly long for an earthquake (110 seconds) and was stronger and longer by a long long way than anything the locals had ever experienced before.

    Eventually though the shaking stopped, well on the ground at least, all of us were left shaking like a leaf, uncontrollable shaking that passed for some, but for myself, Rachel and the kids did not let up in the end for a couple of hours. This wasn't helped by the constant aftershocks and the threat of a tsunami which had me even more scared.

    The aftershocks came one after the other every minute or less and had us all running to and for the door frames so often that I ended up just staying in the doorframe of one of the kids rooms. The children are pretty well prepared at school for this but one of their younger boys was particularly shook up and upset and k have to say it was only because of trying to calm him down that I didn't just burst into tears myself.

    We had the radio on and were looking for updates online almost immediately. It came in as a high 6 magnitude at first, which Justine could not believe was high enough (she was correct, it was two quakes simultaneously and a 7.8 just 15km deep). The initial tsunami warning was that there was none, but the advice is also to just get to high ground after such a big quake regardless of warnings, and we were only a block of houses from the sea. This just made me nervous, I didn't want to overreact but I also didn't want to be amongst the people that stay still and then get hurt, or die. The radio after some time started to announce the evacuation warning and despite a couple of the guys not wanting to go we grabbed bags and made a move to evacuate up the hill. It seems silly now I know the tsunami was only a metre and just hit the beach but on the drive I just couldn't help thinking about a silent wave creeping towards us in the pitch black. Makes it worse when you have no idea where you really are. There were lots of cars and people all heading the same way and we ended up parked on a hill away from any power lines etc, just in case of another quake. We sat for about half an hour here and I think at this point I started to message that we were safe. Online it said we had to wait until morning before going back due to more tsunamis and when we heard one of the local bays had gone out 200m we realised we had to stay put. Justine and James made a call to a friend and despite having a few months old baby, they agreed to let all 9 of us (four of us basically strangers) to sleep at theirs until morning.
    We all started to feel a bit calmer at this point, but the shaking from aftershocks prevented me getting any sleep really. I did get to see a beautiful sunrise though.

    By morning and in the light everything seemed less scary and fortunately the tsunami occurred at low tide and did not each past the beach. We had a cup of tea and everyone else worried about work and school, which all turned out to be closed. Just as well really as no one was in a fit state for it. The CBD was completely closed too so the city would be asleep for the day.
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  • The morning after the night before

    14 novembre 2016, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    So eventually after a few cups of tea we headed back to Justine and James' house. We headed to the camper and tried to get some sleep as we had had so little and felt awful. We have since learnt though that where James and Justine live, the shocks are felt a lot worse than in other places, such as higher in the hills, and so instead we were just sat or laid down whilst the ground kept rocking the car every minute. People were out and about though and we had been reassured that this part at least was normal and the size of these quakes were something more of the norm. It was still unnerving though and took a very long time to get any kind of shut eye.

    Eventually we gave up and headed inside after James woke us to say bye on his way to check on his bar. Most stuff had been cleaned up and Justine was a bit calmer now. The poor dog Indie was still not right though. I forgot to mention her in the last post but she is adorable. About the size of a big cat but not yappy and just plain cute. She was terrified the night of the quake and writing this a week later, I have been told she hasn't been right all week with the aftershocks.

    We said bye and headed to Dave and Rachel's who had offered us a floor and blow up bed for the night. On route we were still checking Geonet, which monitors all the quakes, and were amazed at the volume of the aftershocks coming through. Hundreds of them! The media always makes out like it's 5 or 6, but nope..... hundreds!

    One thing we could take comfort in, being at Dave and Rachel's house, was the fact that they were at least above the tsunami line, so at least we wouldn't need to evacuate again! We ordered some food from Burger Fuel (they make delicious burgers!) and then settled down to watch a daft movie and attempt to calm ourselves. There was another fairly substantial aftershock whilst we were there, which had us all a bit on edge once again, but there isn't much else you can do except get on with it. We also had to ring Tom, our friend in Australia, and let him know that unfortunately we wouldn't making it to the South Island any time soon as not only was our Ferry cancelled for the foreseable future (the docks had been raised in the quake so there was no way of getting on or off the boats now - not great for those already on them!) but also there was horrendous weather battering the islands and therefore the roads were all at risk of more landslips. We really dint want to risk getting stranded between landslips, or worse, caught up in one, so we had decided to stay put. Tom being Tom managed to convince the airline to credit him for the non refundable ticket he had bought after a very long battle on the phones so that was a positive at least.

    Eventually we went to sleep after blowing up the air bed. I say we went to sleep - truthfully I slept only a little as there was another couple of aftershocks in the night that woke me up and made me quite anxious once again!

    The next day when we were alone in the flat we also felt another one, it actually had me and Rob rush to stand outside of the house it was that bad this time. I certainly won't be sad to stop feeling these quakes!!

    Anyhoo, the following day Rachel and Dave informed us that their tenants were moving out of their house that they had been renting (they were excited to finally be getting it back) and said we could stay there until the ferries sorted themselves out. The other two tenants there, who still had a couple of night on the lease, seemed a little bit unsure about us staying but I think after an explanation of the situation were a little more understanding,

    And so we stayed for a few days......that turned into a few weeks! This next part is a bit long and boring (except of course for the whole collapsed lung thing), so I will just summarise in the next post!
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  • South Island at last!

    2 febbraio 2017, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Finally the day has come to leave the lovely, cosy home of Rachel and Dave and set off for the next adventure.
    Yesterday was a bit of a crazy day of sorting, packing, tidying and cooking...for nine people! For some reason we thought the best day to invite James and Justice and their kids over for dinner was the day before we were due to leave. This was made even more disconcerting when we remembered that we had been due to leave the following day when they last had us for dinner, but of course an earthquake struck. As it happens this time the night went smoothly, dinner was great and we had a nice evening saying bye to new friends.

    The morning was calm and the sky was a lovely pale purple, it looked promising for a good crossing over the Cook Straight and then through Marlborough Sounds. It started so well, we stood outside and then headed to the observation deck to take in the scenery and wave goodbye. We were only about half an hour in at most and Rob pointed out dolphins!!!!! There were about three or four small dolphins a few metres from the side of the boat, bobbing in and out of the water. Considering we avoided the dolphin tours as they seem to chase them down, this made my day as I have been waiting to see them in the wild for ages since been here. We soon out ran them though, Rob didn't even get a picture.

    After spending a but of time back inside the boat we noticed the sounds ahead of us and so went back outside to enjoy the view that everyone says is so beautiful. It really was, lovely still water, forested cliffs that reached the shores, it was very mesmerising. Then the rain came, and never stopped. We headed back inside and didn't make it back out again before docking.

    Once off the ferry and in Picton the rain seemed to get even heavier. Fortunately the old ship we had planned to see was undercover in a dry dock. The ship is...
    It was pretty awesome to walk around, especially as it is just been preserved rather than restored, it just had a bit more of a history to it I think. The textures and colours of the wood and copper was really interesting and the back story of the ship was told really well in the video they had.

    The rain still hadnt let up when we left and so we stopped for lunch at Subway and then headed north to Collingwood and Cape Farewell.

    The drive took us through the wine region first, so many vines, and then we were up in the mountains, with pouring rain and cloud everywhere. We past many lookout points so we knew the view must be good, we just couldn't see it. We could barely see a few metres ahead at times and the road was so winding (with sheer drops at times) that it was pretty unpleasant. We managed one photo op when the moody skies lifted ever so slightly. But apart from that....nothing.

    We arrived late at Collingwood, a tiny little place (practically a street) whuch sat by wetlands. Fortunately the rain was easing and we managed to cook some dinner before bed.
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  • Farewell spit and Pupu Springs

    3 febbraio 2017, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    After a long drive and a late night yesterday we weren't really looking forward to the 5:45 alarm this morning. Somehow we managed it and we made it to the tour which left at 6:30. The sunrise looked beautiful over Golden Bay and the water in the wetlands and mudflats was so still it reflected everything so well. It was a shame we didn't have time to capture it.
    Farewell spit was awesome. We were driven 26km along the sand in a 4x4 bus and admired the dunes on our right, the sea in our left and the expanse of sand ahead if us, as far as the eye could see. The wind wasn't too bad, which is good, but it was enough that the loose sand that was whipped up by the wind created an effect of running water. It was a bit like driving on a golden river and when you looked closely you could see the lines if sand in waves, similar in shape to the way the northern lights run like streaks in the sky.

    We stopped for photos on route of various features and the birds, lots of oyster catchers here, before arriving near the head of the spit where the lighthouse was positioned. Here we stopped and admires the insanely loud noise of the cicadas in the trees, trees that had been planted over years, by importing soil, to give the lighthouse keepers some respite from the wind. It definitely worked, it was a warm little oasis and we stopped here for tea and a muffin.
    The way back had the same views but with a different light this time and a bit more wind. The driver had to be careful to avoid the invisible quicksand, careful not to stop moving if we hit some, whilst still pointing out more wildlife. This time we saw a New Zealand fur seal. It was about bigger than I had imagined and had clearly just landed on the sand. We were on quicksand here so we had to keep moving and be satisfied with bus window pictures, but he circled a couple if tines so we had the chance. So that's dolphins and seals we have seen here now :)

    We also stopped aside one of the dunes that we can walk on and we had a go at running down the sheer face. Rob ran from a high point, I chose a slightly lower point, don't want to be responsible for more hospital stays!
    We also learnt that they used to have a problem here with cows, until they shot them all (apparently the lack of certain minerals/nutrients in the grass made them angry and difficult to herd) and then a problem with deer, and then pigs. All of which have been shot to prevent them devastating the dunes.

    Our final stop was at fossil point. Here you could see so clearly the definition if the layers of sediment in the eroding cliffs and the bottom layer was 50 million years old and dotted with thousands of round stones that once belonged to a river.

    All in all it was a beautiful landscape, very end of worldly kind of landscape and very desolate.

    After this we headed for lunch and then set of to the next campsite. We stopped via Pupu Springs which are absolutely gorgeous. They were different from the last blue spring we saw in that the river flowing from it was no where near as blue, but the spring itself was much closer to the observation deck and it was amazing to see the water rippling at the surface of this giant pool of water as a result of the spring gushing at the bottom. It was pretty deep and so crystal clear and blue, everyone looking said the same thing, I wish we could just dive in. It is protected and sacred however to a Maori Tribe as one of their Tongas (treasures). It really was beautiful and a very nice quick stop off to stretch the legs.

    And now we are at our campsite for the night at Pohara Beach. It is beautiful, hot and sunny at last and we are right by the beach, which called for one thing, a swim in the Tasman Sea!! Our first proper swim since arriving in New Zealand. Pretty cold at first, as always, but we got used to it fairly quickly and enjoyed a few minutes swimming. The waves were s bit foamy though and there were loads which got a bit annoying after a while, especially with the muddy, squelchy sand underfoot and the many fronds of seaweed wrapping around your ankles.

    We headed back to camp after a short walk on the beach where we found lots of shells, mostly occupied, and a giant mussel she'll that was about 30cm long!!!! They grow them huge here!

    dinner time brought us yet more soupy rice and then we headed back to the beach for the sunset. The tide was out and so the shallow pools of water on the sand gave lovely reflections of the sun. I watched the birds and admired all the shells whilst Rob took some photos by the sea. And then it was bed time.
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  • Abel Tasman Cruise

    4 febbraio 2017, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The morning was a little more relaxed today and the sun was still shining! Woop! We set off for Kaiteriteri at the northerly point of the Abel Tasman national park where we were due to catch a ferry. The road was another unsealed New Zealand special, winding up and down more hills and full of pot holes and ridges that made the journey once again a little unpleasant, the views this time were much nicer though!

    We arrived at the campsite and DOC office and walked out onto the beautiful golden sand beach to wait for our boat. It was a stunning beach and clearly very popular with visitors and trampers (walkers) alike with a camp that housed up to 1000 people. It would have been nice to do the whole coastal walk of five days but maybe we will save that for when I'm a bit fitter.

    We boarded our catermaran using a little bridge they folded out onto the shore and took a pew downstairs. The journey south to Anchorage took about an hour and we headed upstairs for the majority of it to enjoy the view even more. The coastline is considered one of the best and it is no surprise. So many golden bays, lush green mountains and gorgeous blue sea, dotted with rocks. We saw a stingray at one of the beaches we docked at and a couple more seals too on sections of rock.

    Anchorage was gorgeous, the bay curved right around the long beach and behind us was the forest waiting for us to explore. We chose a walk to Cleopatras pool which was a two hour return and should leave us time to enjoy the beach too. The walk was a bit steep in places, a lot more difficult than anything I have done in a while but the views made the effort worth it. Torrent bay was visible over sections of walk and as the tide was out the blue sea mixed with swirling ribbons of sand that came far inland. We really enjoyed the walk, the bush is gorgeous and full of the sounds of cicadas, which are honestly deafening at times and I cannot believe they can make such a noise! The pool was a pretty place, shallow waterfalls and a big pool that looked very inviting for a swim and made us wish we had time. I managed to fall in a bit whilst walking from rock to rock so my foot at least got a dip! Not embarrassing at all :-/

    We got back to the beach with some time to spare and set about changing to have a swim in the sea. I went first and stopped once the water hit my belly....it was freezing! Rob went next and decided to just run and jump, it was still cold, he never got used to it lol. Eventually we sat and sunned ourselves to dry off and then caught the boat back to camp, enjoying the coastline views again on the way.

    From here it was another drive along the gravel road and then to our next camp for the night at Richmond.

    Our final stop off for the day was to a cave which people online had advised was spectacular. The one downside was the steep climb that everyone mentioned, very very steep and very high. We went for it though and after walking along a dried up riverbed for a while we cane to the steep walkway up. It was steep from the off and it never let up. They weren't kidding when they said it was tough. We had to keep stopping for me to catch my breath (and consider just turning back) but I managed to plough on. It felt never ending as each corner revealed another section and then another and as we got higher it became more of a clamber at times than a walk.
    Eventually though the cave came into view and it really did make the jaw drop. I have never seen anything like it. Absolutely cavernous and the ceiling just filled with thousands of phytocarsts which hung like daggers. We walked along the lookout into the cave and you couldn't see the bottom at all, it was massive. We tried to capture it in photos, which turned out to be quite impossible, and then headed back down the horribly steep path to the car.

    We rewarded ourselves with a pizza Hut pizza, where we also noticed the odd attire of some old local ladies who were dressed nice but with purple caps on their head that made them look like they should be on a coach trip, before heading to bed exhausted.
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  • Richmond to Punakaiki

    5 febbraio 2017, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    This morning we set off after a bit of a lie in, comparison to the last two days, and headed to Mt Owen where we hoped to see it some resemblance to Lord of the Rings. The drive was gorgeous, through pine forests and native bush which stood on the mountains that surrounded us as we drove through the flat Valley. It was very alpine and we also passed lots of sheep and cows on the flat. There were also lots of creeks and rivers running alongside the road which made it very picturesque.
    The road to Mt Own was unsealed and so once again we got to kick up the dust behind us. Unfortunately we didn't get to go as far along the road as we had hoped and as the trek to the actual Lord of the Rings scene was 7hours, it was not something we were able to do. We didn't mind though, the drive was stunning and the mountains around us with green trees and golden grasses on the flat just looked spectacular.

    We headed back onto the track again and drove through yet more stunning valleys as we headed to Buller Gorge. I think my camera will soon be full of scenery from the road as it is just that amazing.
    The gorge was pretty cool but the best thing was the swing bridge, the longest in new Zealand and pretty fun. Only really wide enough for one person but they encourage passing on the bridge for funsies. We did a nice walk after the bridge which took us through some bush and learnt that part of the gorges cliff edge was actually formed from a 7.8 earthquake years ago which pushed the earth here (we were right on a fault line) straight up 4.5m. The 7.8 earlier this year did the same to the coast of Kaikoura. We also walked a bit further to see a large tree in the forest. It was a a bit of a muddy walk and I wasn't impressed with the number of bees either. They hovered around the forest floor, which I was convinced would make them think we were trying to step on them, and thus just made me think they were going to sting us. After almost heading back, I braved the bees whilst Rob just thought I was being silly and we eventually came to the tree. There were a lot of tall trees I thought but this was also bigger and a different species too.

    Our next route was to Cape Foulwind and then the Toranga Seal Colony. This was much more of a winding road, again through the bush and with yet more rivers running alongside. We stopped for some photo ops on route and arrived at Cape Foulwind to enjoy a walk to the lighthouse of this very windy spot. From here we headed to the seal colony. We walked to the beach to see them but there was nothing but sand and a rocky mound offshore that we couldnt have spotted a seal on if we tried. After standing around looking for a short while we headed back to the car and on route noticed a walkway we had missed. Following this track we saw a bird called a Weka, a flightless bird that kinda looks like a chicken/duck and is now under threat in New Zealand, there were a couple in the car park too which was probably a silly place for a flightless bird to hang out.
    Finally, after winding around the edge of the cliffs a little way, we arrived at the lookout point that looked down on the rocks below and the seals. So so many seals, many of them easily mistaken for the rocks that they were laying on, only to be spotted when they moved. The best thing was that there were so many seal pups, they were playing in small little nursery pools, running along the rocks and suckling on their mothers. We could have stayed all day to be honest, they were absolutely adorable and it is so nice seeing them in the wild but we needed to head to Punakaiki for sunset.

    Once again the drive was incredible. This time more winding roads, but eventually leaving behind the mountains and replacing them with high sided and luscious green cliffs that were met with huge waves that broke along the cliff edge. We stopped again for photos (Rob getting well bitten by sandflies) before arriving at Punakaiki, famous for the pancake rocks and blowholes. It was getting by towards sunset too which made the lighting beautiful and golden against the rocks that literally looked like layers of pancakes. The walk to view them also took us past a surge pool and a blowhole which made a noise like thunder that you could hear well before seeing them. The waves came in with such huge force and the sight of the water gushing up and blasting out the blowholes made even the adults exclaim like they were kids. It was very addictive to watch. The sunset too was stunning. Having had clear skies all day, there were just enough clouds that appeared for sunset to light up the sky on the horizon in the most spectacular colours. I have a feeling our cameras are going to be loaded with photos when we return!

    And now we are at camp and ready for sleep.
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  • Punakaiki to Hokitika

    6 febbraio 2017, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Today was forecast rain, but fortunately it held off for at least some of the day so that we could enjoy some of the scenery around us on route to Hokitika further south. The clouds hindered some of the view, but during our detour route to the viaduct at Arthur's Pass it actually added quite a nice, mysterious effect to the lush mountains either side if the valley. It was a long detour to take to see the viaduct and unfortunately the rain came down harder once we reached the lookout, typical! We did get a couple of snaps though and we also got to meet one of the Kea birds that are native here. They were present at each of the two lookouts and we're funny to watch, standing in people's cars and scavenging low to the floor to find food. They just look like giant fat parrots really and we're highly amusing to watch.
    After heading my back the way we came and seeing again the waterfalls and creeks that ran under or beside the road, we eventually arrived in Hokitika. I should mention this road also contained a strange row of toilets on display by the roadside, another strange NZ display. We also found out that in New Zealand they build roundabouts with railtracks running through them. No barriers, just make sure you look...very odd! We also came across one of the many one way bridges here that actually has a train track running the length of it, on the same but you drive on. Difficult too, to see what is coming so not sure what you would do if met by a train half way down :/

    Once in Hokitika we decides as it was raining to go to the Kiwi centre. Here we got to feed 100 year old eels (they are so squishy and slimy!) and then got to see two Kiwis that they house here. The room is dark as they are night foragers but the lighting meant we could see them. They were so much bugger than I had expected and their beaks are amazing. So long and thin and it was great to watch them forage in the ground and logs. They walk with their beaks down and look like they are always about to topple over too. Finally we can say we have seen a Kiwi!! Hopefully we might even hear one tonight.

    Now for a lovely night of rain....movie time me thinks! Oh and we are now pretty sure Rob has broken his big toe by walking the coast walk in flip flops. It is a lovely mix of colours :/ oops!
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  • Hokitika wash out

    7 febbraio 2017, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Oh my word...the rain! All night long it was absolutely relentless and it meant neither of us got the best sleep. Fortunately it followed the forecast and cleared up by the afternoon.
    After spending the rainy morning planning and doing some life admin we headed for the Hokitika Gorge some half an hour away. We were told it wouldn't look so great today due to the rain, the usual brilliant blue would probably be brown, but we just wanted something to do.
    Unfortunately on the drive there I started to get some odd pains in my chest and the all too familiar sensations led to me having an anxiety attack once we arrived. The lack of phone signal and distance from any hospital didn't do much to help and so despite being only a 4min walk from the gorge, we headed back to some civilisation.
    Fortunately, it would seem it was indigestion of some sort and a few hours later I was pain free and much more relaxed. We had by thus point however rescheduled our heli hike of the Glacier the following morning, just in case. We would have to just go back in ourselves in a few days time.

    That evening we went to the movie theatre which like many cinemas here is independent and makes it feel more if an occasion. This one was housed in the old town theatre and was very quaint indeed, the smell from the bakery during the film made us sad too that it was all for tomorrow.
    The film we saw was LaLa Land and we both really enjoyed it, even Rob! A really nice feel good movie we thought, a perfect way to end the day :)
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  • Hokitika to Fox Glacier

    8 febbraio 2017, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    This morning we headed to the beach at Hokitika to see the driftwood sign people keep photographing. It looks pretty cool and considering it is tied together using what looks like the flax grasses it is pretty impressive that it remains standing in the strong winds. After a couple of snaps we then decided to head into the town to buy a Greenstone/Jade necklace. Greenstone was treasured by the Maoris and used to make their weapons as well as decorative items. They tend to be shaped into different designs for different meanings and I went for a fish hook style to signify determination. We looked in with a few shops and eventually found one slightly the shape a whale and made of the flower jade that I liked. We learnt that it us formed where two plates meet and that New Zealand Jade can be quite unique in its colours.
    After picking up this tonga (treasure) we headed off on route for Fox Glacier. The drive was a couple of hours and took us along yet more of the West Coast with its sea views and meandering roads.
    Arriving in Fox we decided to sort out a camp for the night and then head to the walk that took us to the terminal face of the Glacier. It was amazing even at the car park and with no real view if Glacier to see the path it had torn through over hundreds of years. A sign highlights it's reach at about 1750 and it was way down the road we drive up. The mountains either side were tall and sheer with scree at their base and waterfalls running from up high to join the river below, which ran it course over rocks and pebbles that were spread wide and flat along the path of the old Glacier. What was amazing here too was the fact that looking at the face of the sheer mountainsides you could see vertical lines running up in layers, layers which had once been horizontal and have been pushed up where the two continental plates meet at an almost 99 degree angle. It really is amazing how easily you can see the difference between the flat australasian plate side and the Pacific plate that rises up and over it to form the Southern Alps.
    The walk was about 40 minutes, starting steady, the odd stone hopping over creeks, before becoming much steeper at a point where stopping was not allowed in case of rock fall. The Glacier came into view more and more as we climbed higher so this added motivation to this section of the walk. It is strange because I have been here before in 2008 and there was a sign to show the decline of the Glacier since then. I remembered this steep part from my walk in 2008 and we were looking right onto the Glacier and then walking onto the ice from where we now walked on stones, still waiting for a view of the terminal face. Such an astonishing change in such a short space of time.
    Eventually the terminal face came into view and we could walk no further. It is awesome to see, even at a distance and made us even more excited for our helicopter ride and hike next week. You can make out the ice blue hues in the cracked and textured ice, but mostly it is d b irty as it has picked up debris in its flow. The river ran out the bottom and into the valley and the cleaner looking ice worked it's way up around a bend out of sight.
    We took some pictures and enjoyed the view before heading back to the car, taking more pictures, and then driving to Lake Matheson to see if we could capture a reflection if Mt Tasman and Mt Cook in the water. The drive took us down a long stretch of road that cut through the very flat and wide Valley that was covered in golden grasses and housed quite a few cows. The walk to the Lake was another few thousand steps to add to the many already done. It took us through the jungle like forest (so weird to basically have rainforest bordering these snow capped peaks) and eventually to the lookouts if the Lake. There was a bit of a wind and so no perfect reflection but it was beautiful non the less. The peaks also had a but if lingering cloud about them so we will have to guess a little of the views up there. Back through the lush green bush and in need of a sit down I got an ice cream from the cafe (double caramel magnum...yum!) and we sat in the sun enjoying the view.
    Our final trip of the day was to the coast again. We drove further along the long straight Road and as the sunset turned the sky pink and the fields golden we noticed in the rear view that the Glacier was revealing itself as more of the mountain came into view the further we drove. It was pretty spectacular.
    Soon enough we turned into another new Zealand special unsealed road that took us through the forest and winding roads to a beach said to have beautiful sunsets. It did, very orange, the mountains inland in the distance pink, lots of driftwood and waves that crashed and burst so close to the shore like a Mexican wave of splashes. Rob laughed when I said this but I saw no other way of describing them. The only downside was the sandflies. Oh my word! We have had a few bites along the way, the coast is famous for them, but this was ridiculous!!! They swarmed around you and just seemed to be everywhere, there was no escape and after a very short attempt at enjoying the view we decided the people setting up camp here were mad and we left for our sandflies free camp back over the bumpy Road.
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  • Early morning Lake Matheson

    9 febbraio 2017, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Early start this morning to try and catch the reflections in Lake Matheson before the wind picks up. A much clearer sky this morning so we can see the peaks of Tasman and Cook clearer too. It was much quieter this early, although clearly some others had the same idea. The walk to the island lookout was longer than I remembered and so we were walking a good 40 mins before we got to it....a tiring way to start the day when you havent even eaten. It was beautiful though, lovely golden light in the rainforest and the Lake had hues of pinks and oranges on it from the sky. We weren't lucky enough to catch a completely still lake but the effect was still pretty amazing, the photos do a good job of summing it up.
    After this it was time to head back to camp for a much needed shower before kickout.
    The showers unfortunately didn't smell great, despite looking new, and I was gutted when after less than a day of owning it, my greenstone necklace got caught in my clothes snd fell off the hook, splitting into two on the floor. Safe to say I was quite upset. After some consoling from Rob we packed up the camper and decided to have breakfast at a cafe. French toast for Rob and hash browns and sausages for me. They do not know how to make sausages here which is a little upsetting when you want some resemblance to a full English but it was better than peanut butter and jam! Next stop, Wanaka via the Haast Pass.
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  • Haast Pass to Wanaka

    9 febbraio 2017, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Next up today was the drive to Wanaka. We knew this would be a long drive as there was a lot to see on route, mostly waterfalls, as we drove through the Mt Aspiring national park via the Haast Pass.
    The first part of the journey took us past more of the West coastline. Only one lookout that wasn't really anything special, just smelt of the toilets there and was an excuse for the swarms of sandflies to attack.
    Eventually we got to the tiny tiny place of Haast, we thought it was quite built up but couldn't be more wrong, the West Coast apparently only has one substantial town the whole way down and this is miles away. No fuel for 85km from this point and boy do they hike up the price here, we had no choice though.

    After Haast we set of to the East, away from the coast and into the rainforest of the national park. We had a sunny day which was great considering how many stop offs we had on route and the lush green forest looked inviting, minus the sandflies that we knew were lurking. Each stop had us spraying the deet and covering up despite the warm sun.
    First stop was Roaring Billy Falls. A very short walk through a patch of forest that brought us out onto the wide, grey, pebbled riverbed. Lots of the rivers here are like this, in wide, flat valleys that are lined with flat round stone, a bright blue and shallow river running down the middle, occasionally banching out and then back again. We walked toward the river over the stone and saw the falls spilling down the mountain opposite through the trees. We also realised that we were surrounded by thousands of perfect skimming stones and a river that was so shallow and flat it would be criminal not to have a go.
    We ended up skimming stones for ages, it was too much fun, and we also enjoyed watching a guy try to teach his girlfriend, despite him being worse than me, and I rarely get it right. Rob however is a champ, as much as it pains me to say, I dont think I have ever seen stones skim so far.

    Next stop after this was Thunder Creek Falls. This was just one long drop that gushed out from very high. A much better photo op with the dense forest and boulders surrounding it. I couldn't stay though for long, the sandflies were EVERYWHERE here, so I escaped to the car whilst Rob took photos. Even when asked to take a couples photo on route I couldn't stop fidgeting. A tour much like the one I had been on years ago had pulled up and I remembered the photo here from then, the day Hull were due to play and were promoted!

    Next up was the Gates of Haast, not a location from The Lord of the Rings, but a bridge of the Haast River. Another photo of this very much roaring, rapid like river that was cutting through the rocks and forest.

    After this came Fantail Falls. As you can imagine this was more of a cascade that halfway down a large section of the fall split over a rock to form a sort of fantail. This fall, like Roaring Billy, also fell into a wider and flat, shallow riverbed that had the same flat stones which lots of people had taken to stacking into little mounds.

    The last planned stop and still in the national park was the Cameron lookout of the Makarora Valley. Here the rainforest began to open out into more of a flat and wide Valley floor covered in gold, brown and green grasses, the odd livestock and another wide, shallow pebbled river that ran down one side. It was pretty awesome to look back and be able to see the forest banketing the mountains. Until this point we had only seen snippets whilst driving through the forest, so opened out like this you could appreciate better the scale of the rainforest here.
    On a different note, we also had fun watching as people arrived to use the first set of toilets in ages and each time left swiping the air, slapping their skin or simply running away from what must have been swarms of sandflies just waiting. We chose to hold on a while longer.

    After this the rainforest featured less and less and the grasses crept further up the mountains revealing a little more of their shape, folded and ridged where rivers and streams had carved paths down.

    Even further along and the mountains got bigger, dotted with golden brown grasses and shrubbery, but with exposed grey rock higher up. Even more now, you could see the smooth folded mounds and troughs as well as sharp and jutting rocks and ridges up high. All this surrounding a huge, beautiful and calm glacial lake that the road now hugged. We couldn't help but pull over to take it all in. It was stunning. The sky reflected in parts of the glass like lake and the water was so clear and still you could see sraight down at the edges. We considered camping by the lake but the sandflies would be too much to bear we decided.

    This landscape continued to amaze us the rest of the way, more and more mountains appearing and disappearing behind each other and more stunning lakes.

    Eventually we got to the town that sat in the large valley basin by Lake Wanaka. It was very resort like, but then it is a ski resort in winter, and we decided to have some food out at one of the restaurants that looked over the lake. Rob had a delicious chicken burger and I had some amazing beef ribs, twice cooked in their own juices and so succulent they just fell apart.

    After spending money on dinner we opted for a cheap camp for the night, just a large field with a small toilet section that we never needed to use. People here were crap at working out how to pay and just clogged the entrance, but we eventually found a spot and set about getting to bed.
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  • Mountain hike and Lindis Pass

    10 febbraio 2017, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    This morning we got up quite early and left the campsite after making a nice cup of tea and watching some sort of bike race roll through. Not sure how serious it was as most of the competitors seemed more keen to just chat with their fellow riders as loudly as possible.

    We headed back to the musical robot toilets in town...who doesn't want to listen to a nice tune in the bathroom...and then set off for the Diamond Lake Track. We decided on this track over the Mt Iron one after reading some reviews. We got a bit lost on route and ended up on an awful gravel track, but soon corrected ourselves and eventually made it through more mountainous scenery to the car park. After taking a lot longer than probably necessary to pack our bags (more my fault than Robs) we set off uo the mountain.

    The first part of the walk was a fairly gradual but quite steep gravel track that led up to the lake. After no more than about 10 steps I was already warning Rob that all the walking over the past two days may have been a bit too much too soon as I already felt worn out. Seemed pathetic to say so but I felt exhausted. We carried in though, can't give up that quickly, and we eventually got to a path that was flat and bordered the Lake. There were some gorgeous sounding warblers in the trees darting about and you could make out the Lake through the branches. I think being flat this also gave me chance to get a bit more energy back and when the decision cane we followed the signs away from the easy lakeside loop and to the Rocky Mountain Trek that headed to the viewpoint or the summit. We soon found ourselves heading up steps (yay!) so so many steps, up and up and up. Every corner revealed yet more and I was again questioning why u was doing this. I had to stop a couple of times and we let a couple of people over take us before we got to the first viewpoint. It was an OK view of the lake below but not spectacular.
    We carried on up a slightly sloping path now that ran along the mountainside. There was tussocks and grasses blowing in the wind and it had a beautiful golden colour in the sun. Not being stairs this once again allowed me to somewhat recover, though only slightly, when we reached the next fork in the road a huge part of me did not believe I could continue uo any further. I rather fancied the short and flatter walk to the view point, but we had chosen to climb to the top and the view was looking more and more amazing the higher we got, so we continued.
    We chose the East route and began to ascend the rest of the way to the top. It turns out this half of the walk was just one long and very steep walk/clamber to the top. Lots of precariously narrow and loose mud switchbacks and plenty of steep natural steps which were massively testing my tired legs. We stopped a few times on this route, personally I felt like crying several times but Rob kept me going, as did my decision to just pretend it didn't hurt (strangely powerful mind tool). We also saw other people exactly the same so it made me feel a bit better too. The worst thing was that every steep climb to the top of that section just revealed yet another one behind it, the view that were wanted to see was just always another little climb away. We did get a stunning view from the side we were climbing though and that definitely made the climb a little easier. A beautiful view of the lake and mountains and even a white sand river that looked like it belonged in the carries with turquoise water.
    Eventually we could see the summit...a Swedish couple we kept seeing in the way up were waving for us to get up there and the view that revealed itself on the other side would have taken my breath away had I had anybto spare. This side was much more rugged mountain scenery with deep golden and brown grasses against rocky summits and ridges that still held the snow at the top. A 360 degree view of amazingness!
    We chatted a bit to the Swedish couple about the horrendous climb up and then sat and enjoyed the view and recovered a while
    Then was the walk back down. We chose the west route this time. It started lovely and gently and we thought we had been hard done by, but eventually we were clinging to branches to lower ourselves down large scree and mud slopes and steps that just seemed to drop down the side, so I think we chose the better route.
    We made it back in 3.5 hours so for a 3hr return route I think we did good! I could barely stand however without my legs quivering away!
    Time for lunch to refuel and then a drive towards Mt Cook.

    The drive took us almost 1000m as we drove over the Lindis Pass, a route through more golden and grassy mountains that seemed very very barren. It was a beautiful drive once again but not quite as dramatic as some of the rocky mountains we had left behind. The best views were towards the end when the landscape opened out into a vast plain bordered by mountains in the distance.
    We stopped in Omarama to camp for the night which is where we are now, about to sleep to recover for an early start to Mt Cook tomorrow.
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