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  • PĂ€ivĂ€ 152

    Back to Quito 🚌

    2. toukokuuta, Ecuador ⋅ ☁ 73 °F

    Henry and I woke up at 6am to do some bird watching from the tower, we were the only participants of the group. We saw some pretty birds, including a toucan, and giant Amazon otters swimming way down in the river below. The otters are apparently rare, and we saw them the first day as well so that’s a treat.

    To leave the lodge we had to do all the transportation legs in reverse— two hour boat ride, two hour small bus, wait at weird hotel, 8 hour bus back to Quito. It was made longer because the small bus had mechanical issues. We did get to see a small anaconda on the boat ride back, which was the final animal on Henry’s Amazon bingo. The long bus ride had some really pretty views. At one point some police got on the bus but it kinda seemed like they were just hitching a ride. We arrived to our hostel around 10:30pm and were too tired to even find dinner.
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  • PĂ€ivĂ€ 151

    Amazon day 3 đŸ«—

    1. toukokuuta, Ecuador ⋅ ☁ 82 °F

    We’ve been sleeping pretty well so far which is a pleasant surprise, aside from the one bird that sounds like an alarm clock (Henry says it’s the Toucan). I woke up and could hear the rain in the distance approaching, and the frogs calling as if to warn each other. Today we’re heading to a local community down the river to learn about living in the deep Amazon. We took the motor boat (thank goodness) and the rain had stopped (double thank goodness).

    At the community we had some snacks of fruit and larvae. The larvae is a delicacy and supposedly very good for you. I felt a little bit like it was a shock gag for the tourists, but once they were cooked over the fire we did try one. It tasted kinda like pork belly. Then a local woman taught us how to make a tortilla from yucca root, by grating it, squeezing out the moisture, and frying it. It was challenging and Tom cut his finger grating. We had it with some tuna ceviche. Max had befriended the local kids and was chasing them around. Our guide painted our faces using a berry and Max drew cat whiskers and a Harry Potter scar on the kids’ faces. We all cracked up when Clara accidentally smeared the ink all over her face. Some of us bought handicrafts.

    Then we visited the shaman, Hector. He told us about Ayahuasca and how it connects him to his ancestors, who also tell him how to heal people (I think?). We tried a tiny drop of it which just tasted bitter. Then we all had a shot of a fermented infusion of herbs and plants, primarily meant to help with Covid. It tasted suspiciously like whiskey. We each left a drop for Pachamama. The last event was being slapped with stinging nettles. Unfortunately Clara volunteered first and wasn’t told what was going to happen, so that was a painful surprise. I volunteered out of curiosity and found out it was indeed pokey. I don’t remember specifics of the purpose, except curing rheumatism.

    We got back to the lodge and changed for a final Laguna swim. The sunset was stunning. Tom held his injured finger out of the water which looked hysterical. We had our last dinner together.
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  • PĂ€ivĂ€ 150

    Amazon day 2 🚣

    30. huhtikuuta, Ecuador ⋅ 🌧 79 °F

    We awoke to the sound of the rain, which was nice until it was still pouring after breakfast. Luckily Tom was feeling better (Henry has dubbed them Team Tummy Ache because it sounds like they’ve had stomach troubles for a while). Despite the rain we got on our wellies and ponchos and headed out in a canoe. Rowing in a small boat while being dumped on with rain turned out not to be my favorite activity. In addition our guide was having us navigate through narrow spaces between trees, meaning there was a lot of ducking and watching for spikey trees and spiders involved. Eventually we made it to a bank but the heavy rain meant it was pretty flooded. We learned about a Ceibo tree and tried to climb the hanging roots (well I didn’t but others did). We saw lots of mushrooms and some bullet ants (very dangerous ants). The rain was letting up but unfortunately we walked through water so deep it went in my wellies and flooded them. At which point I was pretty over nature walk and relieved when we got back to the canoe, rowed backwards until we got to the main river, and made it back to the lodge. I attempted to clean my trousers and socks, given that I’m quickly running out of clean clothes.

    In the afternoon we made chocolate from beans, which just involved shelling them and then grinding them with sugar. We had some in hot chocolate and put some in the fridge for dinner. We got ready to go on a night walk behind the lodge. Henry spotted nocturnal monkeys at we were heading into the jungle— it has become a running joke that he spots more animals than the guide. Right at the beginning of the walk we see a Ferdelance snake, which is apparently super venomous. I was already a bit done with adventure for the day so I decided to turn around while the others went ahead. Fortunately they all survived and Henry came and got me to look at piranhas in the water, which were slightly underwhelming.

    We tried a pisco sour with dinner (it was okay) and after dinner another staff member gave us a karaoke performance, which was slightly odd but very endearing. We stayed up chatting a bit. The generator gave out as we were getting ready for bed so we had to navigate with flashlights.
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  • PĂ€ivĂ€ 149

    Amazon day 1 đŸ•·ïž

    29. huhtikuuta, Ecuador ⋅ ☁ 84 °F

    The bus deposited us at a weird hotel in Lago Agrio. We felt somewhat okay despite a bumpy bus ride. We had breakfast at the hotel and then another bus took us two more hours to the meeting point with the Amazon river, Cuyabeno. Our group includes a young British couple (Izzy and Tom), a young solo German traveler (Clara) and a solo male traveler (Max— American but living abroad for many years). We had lunch and talked briefly about the different animals we might see in the Amazon. Then we got on a small river boat for another two hour trip to our lodge.

    It started raining lightly right as we arrived to the lodge which quickly became a downpour. Our rooms are in little huts with partially outdoor bathrooms and the lodge seems like it could fit a lot more people so we must be a small group. Right away we saw a huge tarantula hanging out in a tree. We had a few hours to chill and then took the boat down the river. We spotted squirrel monkeys, wooly monkeys, and another type of monkey, as well as lots of birds. We arrived to a laguna with other boats from other lodges. Everyone was swimming so despite our concerns about piranhas we jumped in. The water wasn’t too cold but it’s very brown from the muddy bottom which was spooky.

    We slowly came back to the lodge, looking for caymans (they look like small crocodiles) in the trees. We also saw a small snake in a tree. We had dinner at the lodge and chatted for a bit, but unfortunately Tom had an upset stomach so we called it an early night.
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  • PĂ€ivĂ€ 147

    Galapagos day 4 🐬

    27. huhtikuuta, Ecuador ⋅ ☀ 77 °F

    We sailed overnight to Pitt Point and it was bumpy! We were still moving when I woke up and I was reluctant to come upstairs for breakfast but we anchored shortly after. Our hike was pretty steep but we saw a new booby— red-footed! We got to see some fuzzy white babies in nests. There was another cruise on the hike and it was weird to see other people since our stops have usually just been us. We all discussed how nice it was to have a small group that all gets along and with two guides.

    I was worried about the afternoon snorkel because it was another deep water. Everyone was very sweet offering me seasickness meds (fortunately I had one Dramamine left). I didn’t want to skip since it would likely be the last snorkel trip and I’m so glad I didn’t. As we were riding the dinghy to the spoke our boat driver spotted dolphins in the distance. We drove over and the dolphins specifically swam to our boat and started playing, jumping out of the water to show off. The pod was huge and included babies. Yazmany told us to prep to jump in the water quickly because the dolphins enjoy the boats but are wary once you’re in the water. We jumped in and had a few minutes of them swimming all around us. It’s likely the only way to swim “with” dolphins in an ethical way that doesn’t disrupt their natural behavior. Then we went to our planned snorkel spot and had even more of a treat because there were sea lions again, but this time there were only a few and it didn’t feel as overwhelming. They loved to float upside down and stare at us, or swim down and twirl around us.

    After lunch we took a dinghy around Cerro Brujo, known as “the cathedral” because the rock has eroded to create cavities you can navigate into with large rock faces on either side. Henry chose to kayak along with the family.

    We were all excited when we had a few hours on White Beach to just chill. Some of us laid down, some swam, and the kids covered their dad in a sand mermaid (at Henry’s suggestion). We all wished we could have had more chill beach time but we wouldn’t trade seeing the animals.

    At sunset they drove our cruise boat around Kicker Rock, which is apparently a Galapagos icon. We haven’t had great sunsets as it’s been cloudy in the evenings so it was nice we got a good one. Then all the crew came for a farewell cocktail so we could thank them for their hard work. They’ve been excellent all around. Even though we did so much the time went really quickly and we’re sad to leave our boat and our fellow passengers tomorrow.
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  • PĂ€ivĂ€ 146

    Galapagos day 3 🩈

    26. huhtikuuta, Ecuador ⋅ ☀ 81 °F

    We had a very early wake up call for a special optional itinerary event— snorkeling in deep water near North Seymour island to find hammerhead sharks. We all opted to go except the elderly couple and the girl and mom from the family so we loaded up the dinghy and headed out with Yazmany. The water was very choppy for snorkeling and at first we didn’t see much. We did come across some rays and white-tipped reef sharks sleeping on the bottom. But towards the end of our time hammerheads were spotted. There was a group of eight and they were smaller than I expected. It was very cool to see. Unfortunately the choppy waves made me seasick (more than the boat has so far).

    Back on board we had breakfast and I took some Dramamine. We had a hike next so headed to an island to see Frigatebirds. We got a sneak peek when one flew over us while snorkeling— they’re super quirky because of their big red pouches that inflate when they’re trying to attract a mate. It was pretty hot and humid and I definitely felt tired from the morning’s excitement.

    Lunch included encebolada, an Ecuadorian soup. Fortunately the meals on board are filling since they always include a starter, main, and a treat. Then we sailed and I attempted a nap.

    Our afternoon snorkel was to an island covered in sea lions. They come into the water and swim with you. It was fascinating but also a little scary since I’m used to staying away from sea lions. The ones on the island were pretty vocal and loud. There was a strong current so it was hard to control your distance from them (they try to come towards you) and one even smacked Henry as it swam by him. After we finished and got back on the boat, our guides told us that they didn’t come into the water with us because they were keeping a watch out for sharks! Obviously they chose not to tell us this until afterwards.

    We had our first “wet landing” (disembarking the dinghy onto the beach) to Santa Fe. Sea lions covered the beach including some very cute baby ones. Unlike at home they are completely unbothered by people. Most animals in the Galapagos are, because they don’t have many predators and don’t see humans as a threat. The island also had special cacti that look like trees and take hundreds of years to grow. And there’s a special Santa Fe iguana which looked similar to other islands’ iguanas but we tried to be suitable impressed.

    Dinner was delicious and then we all went to bed early.
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  • PĂ€ivĂ€ 145

    Galapagos day 2 🐧

    25. huhtikuuta, Ecuador ⋅ ☀ 77 °F

    At three in the morning we woke up to a loud sound from the boat engine. At breakfast we found out that when we attempted to set sail, a rope in the water got tangled in the boat engine, so we hadn’t made it to our destination. Fortunately they had divers and engineers working on it so in the meantime we did a dinghy excursion to some mangroves with turtles swimming in the water. We saw a blue-footed boobie, one of the quintessential Galapagos animals. Our guides Pablo and Yazmany are very passionate and educated about the environments and animals.

    Back on the boat they had fixed the engine! We sailed for a few hours to an island called Chinese Hat. We took the dinghies onto the island and walked around, spotting sea lions, an iguana, and some cool shells. Then it was time for snorkeling around the island. We were fitted with wet suits and gear that we’ll be using for the rest of the trip. The water wasn’t warm but not freezing either. We stayed near the reef at the edge of the island. There were a lot of fish, a sea lion, and a white tip reef shark!

    Every time we get back on the boat we get a little snack. We sailed next to Sullivan Bay, a volcanic island. While sailing we had lunch— we’ve been sitting in different groups for meals which is nice. We had some downtime to read on the sundeck or have a nap.

    We had another snorkeling session, the highlights of which were little penguins and a black-tipped reef shark. Back on the boat we went to view the penguins from the dinghies because it’s the end of their season and they’ll be leaving the island soon. Our hike was on volcanic rock where you could see the ripples of the lava frozen in time.

    In the evening we had a “cocktail class” which was the bartender and restaurant manager (a hilarious woman named Mercedes) making a quick margarita in a shaker. She accidentally sprayed us while shaking it. When Paul, the dad of the family, went up to replicate it he jokingly splashed us as well.

    We had a great dinner and then headed to bed a little earlier because we have very early wake up time.
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  • PĂ€ivĂ€ 144

    Galapagos day 1 🐱

    24. huhtikuuta, Ecuador ⋅ ☀ 77 °F

    We got a ride back to the airport thanks to the hotel employee that drove us in his pickup. While standing in line to pay one of the Galapagos fees, we ran into a representative for the cruise company so we said hello and met another young American couple that will be on our cruise. We landed at a small airport on Baltra, went though immigration and biosecurity. and found our cruise guide. We met more fellow cruisers— a family from Boston and a young British woman. We took a quick bus ride to the port and then rode a dingy to our ship. It has 10 rooms and capacity for 16 but there are 13 of us. We were meant to have a twin room but the British woman (Emma) wanted to swap her double room so we did. We had lunch in the dining area of the ship which included a starter, main, and dessert and was very delicious.

    Once the second round of people had arrived and eaten we got on a dinghy and went back to shore to take a bus to a giant tortoise reserve. The tortoises were huge and can live up to 200 years. They move very slowly and eat all day. Next we went to the lava tunnels, which were formed when lava from a volcano cooled quicker on top but kept flowing underneath. We walked through the tunnel and had to do a crab walk for a small portion that was low to the ground.

    Back on the ship we had a briefing for tomorrow’s events and an introduction to all of the crew members on the boat. Then another very yummy dinner. The tables are set for 3-4 so we sat with Emma and Paddy, a British guy who had already been on the boat for 4 days because he’s doing two cruises back to back. After dinner the four of us stayed up chatting for a while. It’s nice that our group is fairly young (aside from one retired couple) because I don’t think that’s typical.
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  • PĂ€ivĂ€ 57

    Galápagos Inseln 🐱

    20. huhtikuuta, Ecuador ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    8 Jahre später geht für Roman ein Lebenstraum in Erfüllung, wir besuchen die Galápagos Inseln im Pazifik westlich von Ecuador. Da die Einreisegebühr für Touristen mittlerweile stolze 200$ beträgt, gönnen wir uns hier 12 Tage und besuchen die 3 Hauptinseln San Cristóbal, Santa Cruz und Isabela.

    Charles Darwin sagte über sie einst "Es scheint, als sei es eine kleine Welt für sich".Dass diese Inseln außergewöhnlich sind, stellen wir bereits bei unserer Ankunft fest. Überall dösen Seelöwen, die Küstenlinie ist aus schwarzem Vulkangestein auf dem riesige Kakteen wachsen. Die Nähe zum Äquator führt dazu, dass wir fast alle Tours, Fähren und Unternehmungen sehr früh beginnen, da die Hitze und Sonne Mittags kaum auszuhalten ist. Perfekte Bedingungen allerdings für die nur hier lebenden Galápagos Echsen. Die einzigen Echsen die schwimmen&tauchen können und so liegen sie ebenfalls überall auf der Insel in der Sonne. Generell fühlt man sich auf den Galápagos wie auf Safari. Tiere koexistieren mit den Bewohnern. Pelikane stürzen sich auf der Suche nach Nahrung vor uns ins Wasser, Seelöwen spielen mit uns beim Schnorcheln und die Riesen Galápagos Schildkröte lässt uns bei Fahrradtouren nicht vorbei. Die Tierwelt ist magisch, alles wirkt größer und natürlicher hier. Wir machen insgesamt 3 organisierte Schnorcheltouren und sehen dabei alles was das Schnorchel Herz begehrt: Hammerhaie, Baby Haie, unzählige Schildkröten, Seepferdchen, Mantas, Octopusse, Pinguine, Seelöwen, Grindwale und Delfine. Auch die viele Vogelarten wie die Blaufußtölpel gibt es nur hier - sie sind eines der Wahrzeichen der Inseln. Wie eben die Galápagos Riesen Schildkröten, die bis zu 160 Jahre alt werden können. Wir besuchen sie in einem Reservat, in der Darwin Forschungsstation aber auch in der freien Natur auf dem Weg zur Mauer der Tränen. Eine Mauer die von ehemaligen Strafgefangenen unter bestialischen Bedingungen in den 50er Jahren errichtet wurde.

    Auch heutzutage muss sich das Paradies einiger Kritik stellen. Der zunehmende Tourismus gefährdet die UNESCO Weltkulturerbe Auszeichnung und lokale Flora & Fauna. Das Preisniveau ist ebenfalls bereits an die primär US-amerikanischen Touristen angepasst und für Einheimische kaum zu stemmen. Viele kehren den Inseln deshalb den Rücken und wandern auf das ecuatorianische Festland aus. Wir hoffen, dass zumindest viele der Köche verbleiben, denn die günstigen Mittag und Abendessen, bestehend aus 2 Gängen und lokalem gegrillten Fisch - werden wir vermissen. Allerdings lange nicht so sehr wie die Echsen, die am Strand neben uns chillen und die Schildkröten, die in den Mangroven mit uns schwimmen. Galápagos ist wahrlich eine andere Welt.
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  • PĂ€ivĂ€ 26–29

    Cotopaxi

    19. huhtikuuta, Ecuador ⋅ ☁ 14 °C

    ~ Wanderung bzw. besser Klettern zum Wasserfall
    ~ Wanderung auf den Cotopaxi, einem aktiven Vulkan, bis zum Gletscher auf 5007m
    ~ Entspannen im Jacuzzi mit Blick auf die Vulkane
    ~ Wanderung auf den Gipfel des Pasochoa auf 4200m
    ~ Lesen in der Hängematte
    ~ Füttern der Lamas und Kuscheln mit dem 3 Wochen alten Baby
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