Soportújar: the village

Like the other Alpujarra villages nearby, Soportújar was populated by Muslims during the 13th century. They built most of the sweeping sights that we see everywhere today: acequias, balates, bancales, village houses with launa roofs, and the covered arcades known as ‘soportales’ that gave Soportújar its name.

After the Reconquest, the Muslims were expelled (at the end of the 16th century) and Soportújar was repopulated with Christian families brought from northern Spain. These northerners brought with them a tradition of healing with ointments and medicinal herbs. As a result, Soportújar gained a reputation for witchcraft.

After hundreds of years of trying to dodge this derogatory association, the town council realized it could be put to use. Like many villages in Spain, Soportújar was dealing with dramatic depopulation. The number of inhabitants fell from 900 in 1950 to 200 in 1999. So in 2008, the town council launched the Embrujo Project. This project might not be to Ned’s and my taste, but it has stopped the depopulation that was taking place. The town is currently gaining population, growing economically, and “creating the basis for a prosperous Soportújar.”

We got up early and were out as soon as it was light to try to see some of the vestiges of history recorded on the ADR fichas before the hordes of tourists arrived. Only partially successful, we ended up watching the parade of cars that could move neither forward nor backward on the steep narrow streets.

Such a dilemma. Without this project, the village would likely continue to depopulate, but with it, life here must be annoying for the local residents at times.Read more