• Elaine and Ned
  • Elaine and Ned

Spain 2025 - Malaga province

Three areas in the province of Malaga, walking from village to village:
1. GR 92 - Senda Litoral - Malaga to La Duquesa (blue pins)
2. Gran Senda de Malaga - Casares to Ojén (red pins)
3. P.N. Sierra de las Nieves - Monda to Alozaina (orange pins)
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  • El Burgo

    21. April 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    El Burgo, where we are now, was actually our inspiration for planning an extended exploration of this area. We’ve been here twice before: the first time coming over the mountain pass at Lifa, riding our mountain bikes on the Ruta TransAndalus from Ronda to El Burgo in 2009; and the second time arriving via the Roman bridge from Carratraca on our 2013 Coast-to-Coast walk from Nerja to Tarifa. Both times, we loved the remoteness of the surrounding mountains, so we were delighted when a few years later, the area was declared a national park, the Sierra de Las Nieves.

    We had plenty of time to explore the town today. There is a beautiful new walk that has been established along the Río Turón using the path of an old acequia that powered a mill at the bottom of the village. When I say old, I mean really old. In fact, it is referenced in paperwork of 1491 as being part of the spoils when the Muslims of El Burgo were defeated by the Christian forces of the Reconquest. Unfortunately, we could see only part of the walkway today because the part that overhangs the river was closed off for repairs.

    That gave us more time to focus on the Roman bridge at the far end of town. Two men were working on repairs there, and we had a nice conversation about what the upkeep on an old bridge like that entails.

    Interestingly, when first building the bridge, the Romans made use of cofferdams (cylinders inside which workers were protected from the river water). Inside the cofferdams, the workers built the pillars that would support the arch of the bridge. (This same technique was still being used more than a thousand years later to build the Brooklyn Bridge.)

    This bridge connected the area with the Vía Augusta and can still be used to cross the Turón River to reach Malaga. In fact, we will cross it just as the Roman Army, patricians, plebeians, and slaves did thousands of years ago to reach the rest of Baetica (Andalusia).

    As I write this, I can hear the church bells ringing 8 pm in the tower at the end of our block. This church was built to accommodate the elderly who found it hard to climb to the church at the top of town. We are wondering if the bells will be ringing every hour through the night.

    www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/el-burgo-pueblo-…
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  • El Dique on the Río Turón

    22. April 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    When we have been here before, we have always used the dirt lane that runs along the south bank of the Rio Turón to get to the footpath that goes over the mountain to Ronda. So we thought this time for something different, we would try the path that goes along the north bank of the river. We picked out a Wikiloc track that would take us up the river and across the dam called El Dique, the first dam of three that have been built along the river for flood control.

    The path started out beautifully wide and smooth. Soon, however, we got to a sign saying the route was closed due to rock slides. We found we could get around them easily. As we continued up the river, we marveled at the bird song and the flowers and the sunshine. We could see on the map that there was a large acequia beside us, and indeed, the trail made its way up to it, and we were able to walk beside it or in it almost all the way to the dam we were hoping to cross.

    But when we got close, it looked like there was water coming over the top of the dam, and the closer we got, the more water we saw. By the time we got to it, it was very clear that it would be impossible for anybody to cross. So we continued on, working our way up the north side of the river on a very nice path that took us to an old era where we had beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. Every once in a while, we could see the remains of old mills along the river as well.

    Later, back in town, some workers cleaning a bridge told us the flooding in March had been enormous, engulfing orchards, roads, and houses near the river.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/el-burgo-rio-turo…
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  • Puerto de los Lobos

    23. April 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Everything was beautiful today: the views of Torrecilla from the pass; the weather warm enough for Ned to wear shorts; the fields of flowers we literally waded through; and most of all, the truly magnificent feathers on the turkey we met on the way up to the pass.

    Our route took us into the national park as far as the mountain refuge, La Rejertilla, that we had hoped to stay in on our walk between Yunquera and El Burgo during Semana Santa. That stay never happened because they didn’t answer our phone calls, emails, or WhatsApp messages, but now at least we know what it looks like and what it would take to access it on future trips (easy from El Burgo and difficult from Yunquera).

    We ate our snack of no-salt-added, oven-roasted almonds at the recreation area called La Fuensanta. It is named for the cortijo that used to be there, complete with its own chapel and oil mill. Now you can wander the grounds and imagine what it must have been like to live in this isolated spot.

    Just as we were almost back to El Burgo, we spotted a large ring of keys lying in the middle of the dirt track. There were at least 20 keys on it and clearly someone would be really missing them! A long back-and-forth conversation ensued where we debated what would be the best thing to do. Should we leave them there? Whoever lost them might be back soon, looking for them. But maybe someone unscrupulous would pick them up. Should we take them to the police station? That’s where we would look if we lost our keys, hoping that someone would have turned them in, but is that where someone in Spain would look? Finally, we decided to take them with us and turn them in at the police station. But when we got into El Burgo, there was no police station listed on Google maps. Ned had the good idea of going to the Ayuntamiento and asking there. A very competent-looking woman listened to our story, smiled, and said she would immediately put a notice on the announcement portion of their website, which everyone in the village reads. She assured us that the owner would be reunited with his keys soon. We hope so!

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/el-burgo-circular…
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  • Ruta los Meguellines

    24. April 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Today was our last day for walking in El Burgo. We picked out a route that went up Cerro Espartoso toward the Sierra Cabrilla that lies between here and the villages of Ardales and Casarabonela. Sixteen years ago, we headed off on our mountain bikes on this same route, passing the same fields filled to bursting with yellow “desert gold” flowers and red poppies. They are so abundant that you just can’t help but wade into them, thinking it’s impossible to have such an exuberant display growing in the wild, just sitting out there for everyone to enjoy. (In fact, I enjoyed them so much from my bike in 2009 that I forgot to watch where I was going and ended up crashing and breaking my shoulder, so today I was extra careful to watch my step as I enjoyed the show. I’m glad to report I didn’t have a single slip or even a close call.)

    This new national park route was particularly well sign-posted and the information panels were excellent. At a fuente just outside town, a sign pointed out that the stones around the fountain had been worn into the shape of the jugs the women used to bring to fill for household water. Another panel listed the many uses of the esparto grass that grows on Cerro Espartoso: making everything from baskets to mule harnesses. We also saw things we’ve learned to recognize from before such as tiny twigs from other olive trees grafted onto the stump of a newly-cut olive branch. We even spotted a red-striped oil beetle scurrying away into the grass, the first we’ve seen on this trip.

    We knew the temperature for today was predicted to be in the high 70s, so we should have gotten our usual early start, but various tasks took longer than expected, and it was already hot by the time we started out. Ned made good use of his shorts again today! Luckily a stiff breeze came up and kept us comfortable on the return. I can see, though, for the two weeks we have left, we should get started as soon as it is light.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/el-burgo-ruta-los…
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  • Casarabonela

    25. April 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    We are now in Casarabonela, the last of the villages located in the central and north east corner of the Sierra de Las Nieves National Park, When we arrived, we spotted a poster saying they are having their annual pipeo festival tomorrow. According to the village website, pipeo is a local dish made from beans, peas, artichokes, bay leaves, olive oil, potatoes, cumin, garlic, almonds, breadcrumbs, and paprika. We saw them setting up tables, so we’re anticipating tomorrow will be a tasty day.

    Our casa rural here is very compact, but newly renovated and sparkling clean. The walls are quite thick, giving us a cool retreat from the hot temperatures outside. The high today is 80° and tomorrow 82°!
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  • Día del Pipeo (without the pipeo)

    26. April 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    We had a fine time at the fiesta in the main plaza today. There was music and dancing. There were booths selling jewelry and empanadas. There was sunshine and crowds. What there wasn’t was pipeo. We could see a long line of large pottery bowls and women in aprons looking like they were ready to serve, but the bowls were empty.

    We walked around and looked at the Arab quarter, saw two churches that were originally mosques, soaked up the flavor of this very Spanish village (we were the only non-Spaniards in sight), and came back to the plaza an hour later, definitely within the time allotted for the afternoon meal in Spain, but still no pipeo. So we came home and had salad and chicken and decided we’ll taste pipeo some other day!
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  • Llano Cristóbal

    27. April 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Given the name of today’s trail, Llano Cristóbal, I’ve been scanning the countryside to the west of town for the last two days, looking for flat areas. Yesterday, from the fiesta plaza, I saw a good candidate: a big flat area down below the village surrounded by dirt tracks that looked like they would be very pleasant to walk on. To my surprise, when we got to the trailhead this morning, it was way up at the top of the village, and it clearly was anything but flat! It climbed steeply up the side of a rocky arroyo. Clearly a lot of trail maintenance had been done as there were stone walls to direct rainwater off to the sides and large boulders placed in patterns that allowed clambering over them.

    The reward at the top was immense - just like the wonderful day from Yunquera when we climbed up to the tree line on La Blanquilla. Here we were almost at the tree line of the Sierra Prieta. We’ve always been seeing it from the other side and rather far away. Today it was right there in front of us, awesome and majestic.

    This was totally unexpected, so I’m hoping in the next four days that we will be able to explore more of this beautiful territory.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/casarabonela-llan…
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  • Power out in all of Spain

    28. April 2025 in Spanien ⋅ 🌬 68 °F

    When I started writing this entry 18 hours ago, the original title was “Power out in our village,” but when I walked out to the main plaza to try to get some cell coverage, I overheard snippets of conversation in Spanish saying that the commuter train lines down on the coast by Malaga were out of service. We are used to power outages at home, so this didn’t bother us too much, but we did discuss whether we should head out and stock up on more groceries in case the power outage lasted through tomorrow or even longer. Ned stopped by a hardware store on the way to the grocery store, and the man there told him the power was out in all of Spain, Portugal, parts of southern France, and Andorra!!! That was almost unbelievable news. We spent an hour speculating about what could have caused this; we couldn’t check any news sources because our phones were almost out of power and we felt we needed to save what little we had left for emergencies. When Ned started out again, he barely got up the street before he saw lights on. I quickly wrote up Find Penguins only to have the internet go out before I could hit upload. It will be interesting to find out in the coming days what actually caused the outage.

    Our walk today was along a Roman road that connected to the road we saw in El Burgo last week. We enjoyed every minute of it, oblivious to the power outage back in the village. It was quite windy with gusts up to 44 mph. Maybe the wind was part of the electrical problem…

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/casarabonela-roma…
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  • Mapping out a new route

    29. April 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    I love poring over the Spanish IGN (Instituto Geográfico Nacional de España) maps. All those little squiggles hold out such mysterious promise. 99% of the time, I’ve been able to combine the information on the IGN maps with a track already posted on Wikiloc that will take us to a desired area. In fact, that’s been true for 46 of the 48 routes we’ve done so far on this trip. There has either been a track that someone else has put up or pieces of several tracks that I can combine that has taken us where we want to go.

    But a few weeks ago from Alozaina, and now from Casarabonela this morning, I’ve plotted out a new route on the IGN map that doesn’t exist on Wikiloc. It’s exciting to do this, but there are lots of little things to watch out for. From Alozaina, we ran into a locked gate that Ned was able to circumvent with a farm track that got us from point A to point B. More common, if you don’t zoom in far enough on the IGN maps, two dirt roads that LOOK like they connect, turn out to have a small break between them. You get there and find out it’s a sheer, uncrossable arroyo or whatever. However, this morning’s stab at a new track worked out perfectly. We were able to make a loop route rather than an out-and-back walk, seeing new things at every point along the way. I briefly read the map wrong at one junction and took us into a tangle of overgrown plants with a steep drop off to one side, but we quickly retraced our steps and got back on a wide dirt track with no problems. And now it’s posted on Wikiloc for anybody else who comes to Casarabonela to follow. Such a satisfying day.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/casarabonela-circ…
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  • Qasr Bunayra

    30. April 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Ever since I started planning this trip over a year ago, I’ve been wondering how Casarabonela got its name. It doesn’t seem to fit the pattern of any of the other village names around here. Most of them are short: Monda, Guaro, El Burgo, Ojén (where we are going next). But when we stumbled upon an explanatory sign about the Muslim history of this village, it suddenly made sense. Its name during those times was Qasr Bunayra.

    The maze of winding, narrow streets in all the villages around here clearly reflects their Muslim heritage, but Casarabonela seems to radiate the past more than any of the other villages. The alcazaba (fort) still visually dominates the town; the medina (nucleus) is clearly delineated; and when we wander into the arrabales (outskirts), we feel like we’ve gone back 1000 years. It’s been delightful to discover.

    Today’s main task was to get some necessary paperwork printed up and signed. To do that, we needed a papeleria (stationary store) so we could print up PDFs emailed to our phones. But there is no papeleria in Casarabonela. Ned turned to the ayuntamiento for help, and they graciously spent an hour trying to figure out how his phone could communicate with their printer. Not only did they they solve the problem, but they also did it all at no cost. So kind.
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  • Jardín Botánico de Cactus

    1. Mai 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Although Casarabonela doesn’t seem like a likely place to have a cactus garden, it actually has the largest collection of cacti and succulents in all of Spain with 11,000 plants. The collection was started by two botanists who lived on the island of Mallorca. In search of a more suitable climate, in 1 995 they moved to Andalucía where it turned out that the slopes of the Sierra Prieta offered the necessary microclimate. We were the only visitors today, so with the attentive resident cat as our guide, we were undisturbed as we pored over the beautiful blooms on many of the cacti.

    On our return, we stumbled across an Arrabal neighborhood we hadn’t seen before, and ended up spending almost an hour poking around the barrio which preserves the layout of the Islamic portion of the town after the Reconquest. We saw 5 of the town’s 35 hornacinas (niches with Christian symbolism) - which we’ve just learned to recognize as the markers between the Christian neighborhoods and the Muslim neighborhoods after the Reconquest. Now, of course, there’s no religious requirement as to the neighborhood where one can reside, but it does appear that a significant number of Muslim families live in this area. We also saw several adarves (lanes with no outlet that give access to the middle of a block) and a tinao (roof over a street that connects buildings), the first time we’ve seen one outside of the Alpujarra region. It was just fascinating to discover these all on our own without a guidebook or signage pointing them out. Casarabonela definitely has had the best preserved historical landscape of any of the villages we’ve stayed in on this trip.

    www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/casarabonela-jar…
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  • Adventures with the locksmith

    2. Mai 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    The minute the wind slammed the door shut behind us as we stepped into the street to see if we had cell service in our new village of Ojén, I had a panicky thought. “Do you have the keys in your pocket?” I asked Ned. He didn’t, nor did I. So there we were in a new village where we knew no one, with our backpacks and all our gear on the other side of a locked door.

    Luckily, we had our phones in our hands, so I immediately WhatsApped the owner, asking if he lived in Ojén, and explaining the situation. He answered right away that he was on a three day trip and currently 150 km away!

    A lot of thoughts ran through our heads at once:
    -What is the Spanish word for a locksmith?
    -Is there a locksmith in the village? (Probably not; we haven’t seen one in any of the other villages.)
    -Where might the nearest locksmith be? (Probably in Marbella. Ugh )
    -Would a locksmith be able to get here before nightfall?
    -If not, where would we sleep?

    We tried to be calm problem solvers. Good, we had cell service, so we were able to look up the word for locksmith. It’s “cerrajero”. Google then told us that, incredibly, there was a cerrajería in Ojén. No phone number, so would it be open? Google Maps showed us the way, and 10 minutes later we were in front of a very unprepossessing building, but there was a man working outside, an excellent sign! We ventured in and explained our problem to the first person we saw. He called the boss, and she immediately took down our address, and sent us back to our house. Within five minutes a man appeared on a motorcycle with a piece of plastic that looked like a giant credit card. He patiently wiggled it in the door for 5 to 10 minutes, and, whoosh, the door swung open and we were reunited with all our gear!

    We’ll be thinking very kind thoughts about Cerrajería Ojén as we go walking tomorrow!
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  • The Tunnel, Part 2

    3. Mai 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Two years ago when we were walking the Camino del Argar, the route passed through a long tunnel that we had to shimmy into through a silted up entrance. The next day, we learned that the ayuntamiento had warned people not to use the tunnel due the danger of possible collapse. So when I read that today’s route had a tunnel under the A route that snakes through the mountains here, I had my doubts. But it all turned out to be easy - short, with a visible exit 0.2 kilometers away, a clear entrance, and signs of many users.

    The bigger problem was the first kilometer of the track out of the village. It looked easy on the map, but I was soon in over my head (literally) because the trail was quite overgrown and right on the edge of a gorge. It then went along an acequia with a tube cemented into its bed, making for some tricky footing, again with the drop to the arroyo directly beside us. I was thrilled when we finally got to a cemented road. That first kilometer took me an entire hour.

    The rest of the walk was pleasant and easy through the Parque Botánico El Cereza (which is more like a forest park than a botanical garden) and back to the village along a nice wide track.

    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/ojen-parq…
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  • Puerto de los Carreros

    4. Mai 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    After yesterday’s adventure (narrow ledges, steep drop-offs, too precarious to even think about taking a photo), I wanted the exact opposite for today. That is exactly what we got: wide, smooth concrete or dirt tracks, plenty of space between us and the drop-off, and fantastic views all the way from the Mediterranean and the Rock of Gibraltar to our now-familiar Torrecilla.

    Because it was Sunday, lots of other people were out enjoying the same route - walkers, runners, and lots and lots of mountain bikers. They passed by pedaling valiantly on the uphill leg, and roared by at great speed on the downhill leg. Quite impressive.

    The only snag came at the end of the route. We had turned off on a dirt track and were within a half km of joining up with our outward track when we saw a sign saying “ Peligro. Colmenas” (Danger. Beehives). Well, we thought, we’ve passed a lot of beehives on various tracks in Spain and never had a problem, so let’s not worry about this one. But as we got closer, we saw two men working there, all suited up in protective gear. They waved their arms madly at us, shouting that it was dangerous and telling us to go back to the paved road. We did so reluctantly, retracing our steps and plotting a new route back to Ojén. It worked out fine, but when they passed us in their truck a few minutes later, I wondered if we would have gone through just fine had we arrived at that point after they left.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/ojen-puerto-de-lo…
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  • A walk to the polideportivo

    5. Mai 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    The sports arena was not our intended destination, but it ended up being one today. We used up much of the morning interacting with the Wi-Fi technician who came to remedy the problems in our rental apartment caused by the nationwide power outage last week. Then we picked what we thought was the shortest way to the GR 249 trailhead, planning to walk south toward the Mediterranean, but to reach it, we had to have a way to cross the busy A-355 north of Ojén. There is an underpass just above the sports center, but the route we took to get there left a gap that was insurmountable for me. Instead, we made our way back to the village, stopping to view a very interesting display about the mining history of this area followed by an even more interesting chat with two men from a pest control company who are going around the village eliminating cockroaches that are living in the town’s drainage system. I’ll spare you the details of that! Suffice to say it’s a big problem.

    www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/ojen-polideporti…
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  • Huertas loop

    6. Mai 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Another easy walk today that took us by huertas and olive, orange, and avocado groves south of the village. There was a path down toward the river that we wanted to take all the way to Marbella, but it was badly eroded by the March storms and is currently impassible. Instead, we watched some men playing boules and then visited the Museo del Molino on our way back. We saw the water-driven millstones that crushed the olives and drained off the 30% of the fruit that is oil.

    Ojén is a conundrum in terms of access to trails. It is the southernmost of the villages on the east side of the Sierra de las Nieves, and the last of the villages for us to visit. The other villages have all had steep but doable access, but Ojen has escarpments on all sides but the west that are too difficult for me to negotiate. Tomorrow we’ll try a route to the SW that I’m pretty sure will work.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/2025-05-06-06-38-…
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  • Sierra Bermeja

    7. Mai 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Hurray! We finally found another loop out of Ojén that was as good as the one we walked on Sunday. This one went along the side of the Sierra Bermeja range, named for the red color of its rocks.

    The Río Real carves out a deep valley as it flows down from the mountains to pass by Ojén, complicating access to the village. We knew if we crossed the river by its one bridge this morning that there would be two possible routes back. One was a singletrack trail cutting down an arroyo to cross the river via a tree-trunk bridge. Our luck with those sorts of trails has not been good, nor was it today - more storm damage. The other was a dirt road that crosses the river via a ford, but does not connect with any tracks to get back into the village. Instead, you have to walk on the A-7103, the only paved route leading north out of Ojén. We were afraid this would have a lot of traffic on it, but it turned out to be perfectly fine in spite of the fact that it didn’t have any shoulder at all. Luckily, only one bus came by while we were on it. We knew from riding the bus from Marbella to Monda at the beginning of this trip that the bus occupies both lanes as it goes around the six hairpin bends that allow it to climb up out of the barranco. It beeps twice as it approaches each hairpin to warn oncoming traffic (and walkers!) to get out of the way.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/ojen-sierra-berme…
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  • Last walk in the Sierra de las Nieves

    8. Mai 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Today was our last day in the Sierra de las Nieves. Tomorrow we are taking the bus to La Carihuela on the coast, a few train stops from the Malaga airport. We’ll have a few days to do some sections of the GR 92 that we missed in March due to the storms, and then on Tuesday, we fly to Madrid, and Wednesday to the US.

    The Sierra de las Nieves proved to be a great choice for this trip. We’ve gotten to explore eight villages and have had some spectacular mountain walks, especially the day up La Blanquilla, and our ventures into the Sierra Prieta. The March rains caused some trail damage and flooded fords, but the rain also brought a profusion of wildflowers and birdsong that we have enjoyed immensely.

    For our last walk, we chose an easy route that took us north of the village along the Río Real.
    A bridge at the end of the track connects across the river to the singletrack trail we didn’t take yesterday. It joins up with the dirt track we did walk that runs along the west side of the Sierra Bermeja. (We didn’t take the singletrack today either, having seen the damage farther up yesterday.) We also had a great view of the huge scar, maybe 150 feet long or so, where the cliff over the river collapsed and washed away. Whew!

    Ojén has been a great spot for our last village, a mountain town with a touch of seaside flavor. On the weekends, people flock up here from Marbella and fill the squares with lively conversation at the outdoor cafés. The trails are busy with walkers, runners, and mountain bikers. But the weekdays have been quiet and serene, just the right ending for our mountain days.

    www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/ojen-rio-real-21…
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  • People, people, and more people

    9. Mai 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    We’ve seen more people today than in the last two months put together! After all that time in small mountain villages, the cities of the coast with their endless high rise apartment buildings seem like a different world. Our apartment is a little haven though, right next to a big park, with a rocky hillside directly behind us.

    We took the bus from Ojén to Marbella, and then anther bus to Torremolinos. From there we walked to La Carihuela. Tomorrow and Sunday, we will walk from here on the coastal path. The weather looks glorious. Quite a change from March!
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  • La Carihuela to Fuengirola

    10. Mai 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Today was a good day for a walk along the beach. It was sunny and warm - a big change from when we were in this area in March and almost got blown off the cliffs. Ned wishes he had worn his shorts today, but he’ll have another chance tomorrow.

    The Paseo Marítimo is right along the beach starting from La Carihuela, so on one side you have a beautiful view of the Mediterranean and on the other side, you have your choice of literally hundreds of restaurants between Torremolinos and Benalmádena offering every possible nationality’s specialties - Dutch, German, and British of course, but also Indian and Chinese and more.

    Today is Saturday so there were lots of people out enjoying the path: runners, walkers, cyclists, swimmers, sun-bathers, fishermen, and even a couple having romantic engagement pictures taken on one of the breakwaters.

    From Benalmádena to Fuengirola, the cliffs come right down into the ocean, so the walkway is often elevated. The water below is very clear and looks like it would be great for snorkeling.

    Once in Fuengirola, we had our choice of taking either the bus or the train back to La Carihuela. We first settled on taking the bus, but it pulled away from the bus stop when we were still about 20 feet away. We decided to walk ahead to the next bus stop rather than sit and wait 20 minutes, but the same thing happened again, so we walked up a really steep road to take the Cercanias commuter train back to the station near our apartment, but we ended up on the wrong side of the tracks and couldn’t find a way to cross. Back down the steep road, up 106 steps, try to make sense of the ticket machine, and -whew- we made the next train.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/fuengirola-212905964
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  • Playa Carvajal to Playa Chaparral

    11. Mai 2025 in Spanien ⋅ 🌬 73 °F

    Our final walk for this trip started where we left off yesterday on the GR 92 along the Paseo Marítimo, close to the beach, with the Mediterranean on one side and shops and restaurants on the other. (The most frequent combination today: Indian/Italian/Tex-Mex.) Plenty of sunshine for Ned to enjoy his shorts! The surprise of the day was seeing one of the famous Osborne bull steel silhouettes appear on a hillside above the endless stream of apartment houses and hotels. We didn’t know there were any in this area.

    The city of Fuengirola provides many amenities along this stretch: art installations, beach showers, WC‘s, lifeguards, exercise stations, and more. So we were taken by surprise when we crossed the bridge over the Rio Fuengirola, and the nature of the route changed completely. We were suddenly on a cliff above the water, directly beside the A-7 four- lane divided highway with cars, trucks, and buses thundering by at high speeds and only a guardrail between us and the fast-moving traffic. The views of the Mediterranean were still there, but we did not find this section pleasant because of the constant traffic noise. We were very glad when a bus showed up to take us back to our apartment!

    www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/carvajal-to-chap…
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  • Train or bus

    12. Mai 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Today was reserved for two tasks. The first was an easy one: Go to the Chinese store around the corner and get a sports bag to put our hiking poles in for the trip home.

    The second was a bit more complicated and is still not resolved: Should we take a train or a bus to the airport tomorrow? The train is appealing because it stops directly at the airport, but it is a bit challenging to get to (Ned tried out the route today), and it was very crowded when we rode it a few days ago - no seats available. The bus has the advantage of being close by, and the disadvantage of not stopping directly at the airport. We would have to cross a divided highway on an elevated walkway and make our way through backstreets (which we know how to do because that’s the way we left the airport when we arrived). So the pros and cons are about equal. We’ll see.

    We ended up having plenty of time left over for a walk along the Paseo Marítimo into Torremolinos to see the Casa de los Navajas. Google Maps helpfully told us before we even started out that it was closed today, but we went anyway because it was a nice walk along the beach and we would be able to see the impressive exterior of the mansion built by a Malaga sugar baron. As we were making our way back, we had the added bonus of seeing the torre that was originally called Torre de Molinos and gave the town its name.

    As you can see in the video, the doves that visit our balcony frequently have been a great source of enjoyment.

    www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/torremolinos-cas…
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  • Madrid

    13. Mai 2025 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    We are in Madrid, ready to fly to the US tomorrow, so this is our last posting. We loved the Sierra de las Nieves and its villages and are heading home full of appreciation for all the people who helped us out in various ways.

    We took the train to get to the Malaga airport this morning. It turned out to be a good choice because, although the elevator wasn’t running at 8:30 AM, it was an easy walk to get to the train station. (And I didn’t have to face riding up in that exposed elevator tower.)

    Here in Madrid, we have a nice little apartment for the night right across from a park in the casco histórico of Barajas. We will be able to cook supper tonight and breakfast tomorrow before we leave, and we are going home with clean clothes thanks to the washing machine here. The flight we are taking tomorrow left 6.5 hours late today; let’s hope it does better tomorrow. It flies directly over Santiago de Compostela and we have window seats on the side with that view.

    Many thanks to those of you who have been on this journey with us.
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    Ende der Reise
    15. Mai 2025