The Pamir Highway

Finally we hit the epic Pamir highway, the second highest Highway in the world! Once leaving the shoddy "paved" M41 that and driving into the Wakhan valley along the Pamir River which represents the border to Afghanistan, the road is not paved anymore ( thank god for that, you really start to prefer horrible corrugation to these potholed roads with unpredictable ditches) and mostly one lane only. On the first day we did not meet a single car on this road so I am really happy about driving in convoy with Christoph and Lena, just in case. ..
Eventually it starts to snow and we really want to traverse this last pass of only 4300m as we don't want to be snowed in. Well, this one turns out to be the hardest of all: only one lane, with big boulders and huge ruts, lose gravel or sand in between and all this with the altitude greatly reducing the power of the engines and causing the engines to blow lots of smoke. Hard work to getting up there but eventually we make it (without overheating, sorry to bore you). Big sense of achievement.
Now we only wanted to get down quickly before the night breaks but even though we drove until we could not longer safely dodge the rocks we didn't get below 4100m and just parked on the road side. No cars coming anyway.
We have diesel heaters, Standheizung, in both of the cars, but due to the altitude they do not work. So keeping warm is the motto for oUr nights here. Insulating sheets on the Windows, lots of tea which not only warms from the inside but needs to be heated on the gas stove, ahhh, nice and warm, and then, when going to bed my hot water bottle! Best invention ever!
Next morning I dread looking out the window, not only because I have to stick my hand out from underneath my warm blanket, but I dread to see everything covered in snow. We still have to get down this rocky road! But hallelujah! Glorious sunshine.
I am not sure how cold it was exactly, but the water in the dog bowl inside the van was frozen solid.
Once dog is walked, the breakfast in the sun complete and everything packed up, I start my car without major problems. Christoph's Dicker (the fat one) doesn't return this favour want to start without jumpstarting it. Just to prove, that's why we travel in convoy!
The rest of the day traveling through the most amazing of landscapes. My heart wants to explode from joy.
When I was young but lacking confidence I dreamt of riding my motorbike to Afghanistan and exchanging it for a camel. I wish I had done it then when it was still possible. This country has always fascinated me. But still... now I can stick my hand into water that has touched it's border. Who knows, perhaps one day. ...Read more