Revenge of the Topes

We headed out of San Cristóbal, with the obligatory splurge at a supermarket, on the most infamous road ever. Everyone was taking about this horrible road that was littered with topes (speed bumps) and wound around mountains curves. It's only 200km (84m) - how can it possibly take 6 hours?!

We stopped off at a little amber shop en route and ran into Josh & Chantelle again, and then we both jarringly made our way to Tonina. By my reckoning we had been over 240 topes in under 100km, and considering the speed we were driving it ended up averaging one a minute! Some aren't too bad and you can cruise over, but some (and you don't know which until after you have gone over them) even if you crawl over them everything in the van crashes around. It was worth it, as we had a beautiful camp spot overlooking glorious green countryside, that made one person leave the comment it looked like England!

In the morning we explored the spectacular site of Tonina, a rival to the more famous Palenque. It was a really impressive site with 2 huge pyramids at one end, and I got some amazing drone footage with me standing atop of one.

We then made a quick dart (80km, 2 hours, 120 topes!) to Agua Azul. We weren't expecting the amazing milky blue cascades winding their way up the river, with tantalising rope swings and lush swimming areas. We camped there for the night, and the for the first time in months the heavens opened.Læs mere